Best powersports chains & accessories according to redditors

We found 76 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports chains & accessories. We ranked the 55 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Powersports chain adjustments
Powersport chain guards
Powersports drive chains
Powersports sprockets
Powersports chain & sprocket kits
Powersports master links

Top Reddit comments about Powersports Chains & Accessories:

u/muphy · 6 pointsr/MTB

I mean the real ones are like $13 dollars more, don't buy unnecessary food/coffee/drink/whatever for a week and you've recuperated the cost of wondering. https://amzn.com/B00D3FG6ZW

u/meltmyface · 4 pointsr/plastidip

I weighed 235 when I got it in May, and weigh 220 now.

I guess I shouldn't say stock. Forgot I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket the first week I got it and was able to hit 60 with no headwind, but that costs like 9 bucks on Amazon and takes about 15 mins to swap.

All the other stuff I did just made it quicker, like exhaust, ecu, intake, and clutch springs (which barely helped, should have gotten stronger ones) because the clutch sucks.

u/Degoragon · 3 pointsr/motorizedbicycles

Amazon or eBay will have a brake kit.

CNC Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/UAUS-Sprocket-Adapter-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B07ZJ3STLC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1RF5YNX546933&keywords=motorized+bicycle+sprocket+adapter+kit&qid=1574881286&sprefix=motorized+bicyle+sp%2Caps%2C319&sr=8-6

Disc Brake kit: https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Front-Back-Disk-Brake/dp/B07458MXNB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+disc+brake+kit&qid=1574883409&sr=8-1
Note: The CNC hub has a 6 bolt pattern near the center of the hub to bolt the rear disc onto. If you wish to use disc up front, you will need a front wheel or hub that can adapt to disc brakes. You can also find 26" wheels with these disc brake hubs already installed.

Front disc brake will need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Life-Adjustable-Bracket-Mounting/dp/B019OML8VE/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2/136-3711700-3661816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019OML8VE&pd_rd_r=9be28cda-a6eb-4e2e-917e-90974ef50b31&pd_rd_w=wq72u&pd_rd_wg=XttIU&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP&psc=1&refRID=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP

For the front, you will need a new front wheel. https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Rims-Alloy-Front-Wheel/dp/B01FWHAHEE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=26+x+1.75+bike+rim+disc&qid=1574887171&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

Disc Brakes are ideal, (better stopping) but if you don't want to go the hassle of installing them, you can instead opt for v brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cruiser-Steel-73-91mm-Chrome/dp/B000AO5J16/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+v+brake+kit&qid=1574883735&sr=8-12

Use this video as a guide to installing disc brakes on your bike (please note, the rear disc will be bolted to the motorized bike sprocket, so, its mainly good for the front.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emW7M-ZD0Pw&t=104s


Also, if you prefer "Mag" wheels as opposed to spokes, here's a nice set of BBR tuning mags for $119. These Include the motorized bicycle rear sprocket, so the above listed CNC Sprocket Adapter will NOT be needed if you buy these wheels. The Mags are disc brake ready, no additional adapters needed outside of the front and rear caliper mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/BBR-Tuning-Mountain-Cruisers-Motorized/dp/B076PWYSFS/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+disc+brake+wheel&qid=1574884536&refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A6404041011%2Cp_36%3A-20000&rnid=386589011&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-10

Make sure everything fits your bike before purchase. Also, feel free to do some research.

u/ubetterbelieveit · 3 pointsr/MTB

Get him a bash guard!! They're super cheap and will let him bash everything in site: https://www.amazon.com/Race-Face-Light-Bash-Guard/dp/B07CKWN57G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_468_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=E4MXRSHMBC2R4461AERT

You should still replace the main chain ring. It'll never be perfectly straight/he'll lose chains. But bend it back in the meantime!

u/HighDensityPolyEther · 3 pointsr/ebikes

Really the best way to do this is with a rear hub motor. I'm guessing your setup uses a mid drive motor.
You could use some parts made for gasoline bikes and add a second sprocket on the left side of the rear wheel, then the pedal-powered drive train would be unaffected.
Here's an example of the parts in referring to, it basically adds another sprocket to the other side of the rear wheel.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QVWSYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TFhXDbEKF3JAD

u/cozeekev · 3 pointsr/hondagrom

I was just looking at these fancy ones
OTB Chain Adjusters GEN 2

u/CulturalTortoise · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

You're going to need a chain brush, chain cleaner and chain lube regardless. So buy them now, try clean it up and if it has no rust on, you should be good.

Chain brush


Chain cleaner (this really helps!)


I've had slight rust on a chain before on one spot, this cleaned it right up. To be completely honest, that chain looks done though. Get a new one to be on the safe side.

u/Not_who_you_think__ · 3 pointsr/MTB

Had the same issue with a DB Hook. If it’s that cheap plastic piece above and below your chain ring, don’t bother with their chain guides, get a proper narrow wide chain ring and if you really want to, there’s this guide on amazon.

Origin8 Torqlite UL Chain Guide, Mini Clamp On (31.8 - 34.9mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTLV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.CdBbYGY2MRT

Raceface makes a relatively cheap, well made narrow-wide chain ring.

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ring, Black, 32T 9/10/11 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_waDdBbE7C18PJ

u/ChristophColombo · 3 pointsr/MTB

> I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585

Yes, that'll do the trick for a chainring. If you don't have a clutch rear derailleur (Shimano Shadow Plus or SRAM Type 2), you should pick up one of those as well.

>I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts?

That should work. You could also get a regular Reverb and not have to deal with funky cable routing. From a service perspective though, I personally think the KS Lev is a better buy. My Reverb has been fine, but they can be a pain to bleed and there have been a fair number of people who have had issues. If you don't have a convenient service center in your country, something more user-serviceable might be a better idea.

>my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top

The important number is how much seatpost you have exposed above the seat collar. Minimum seatpost exposure for a 125mm Reverb is just short of 200mm from the seat collar to the saddle rails. Adjust accordingly for the 100mm and 150mm versions. While you can set the Reverb to any height, it's bad for the seals to keep it lowered for any length of time and it's also a pain in the ass to have to partially re-lower the seat every time you raise it back up. If you are unable to ride your bike with more than 163mm of exposed seatpost, you won't be able to use a dropper - afaik, the Reverb has the lowest collar-to-rail height, and that's the height of the 100mm version.

u/Gravyboyz · 3 pointsr/MTB

I'm still running the stock Raleigh generic narrow wide that came with my bike, but when I finish destroying it I'll be going with a RaceFace.

Under 40 bucks and really well reviewed, I think they look good too.

u/LBKewee · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Outisde of the BBK, you can do quite a bit. A 14t front sprocket will give you a bit more acceleration while reducing your top speed 6.667%. For me, it made 4th gear a little more usable.

You can also modify your airbox for really cheap, get a cool air intake kit(~$100), or just stick a cone air filter(K&N R-1100 ~$40) over the top of your throttle body and remove the entire airbox/snorkel.

Since they're pretty popular, you can also get slip-on mufflers for them. My full yosh system was ~$500 and my buddy did the FMF slip on for ~$300. I'm sure there are cheaper exhaust options out there.

They're just so easy to work on! I was not confident in working on bikes until a friend helped me install the 143 kit and since then I do most of the service on my other bikes too.

u/fart_around_on_you · 3 pointsr/MTB

So you took the existing rings off the stock crank, and just bolted a single, something like this (http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1463960659&sr=1-1&keywords=race+face+narrow+wide) in place? Still seems like I'm close to $200 going with those parts, but I haven't tried hunting for the cheapest prices on different sites yet.

u/TrailChaser · 2 pointsr/XR650L

Very nice. Love the new/clean look.

Have you done the almost mandatory first mod of swapping the countershaft sprocket with one made for a xr650r? I recommend getting that knocked out before the first 1000 or so miles.

Reason: The stock sprocket on the countershaft is too thin. If left on it will eventually wear thru the splines on the shaft and spin. When you install it; it will go on backwards.(writing towards the engine)
One of the biggest "What to look out for" when buying a used xr650l is to look at that sprocket and see if it's been welded to the shaft. If you ever see one with a welded sprocket...not swapping is the reason.

http://www.amazon.com/renthal-283-520-15gp-ultralight-tooth-sprocket/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411213226&sr=8-3&keywords=renthal+xr650r+sprocket

u/throwaway_awaythrown · 2 pointsr/xbiking

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

u/Stricky92 · 2 pointsr/FZ09

-Trackside Front/Rear stands for easy cleaning

u/suppathyme · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice as I can't find any additional information on this no matter where I look. I need to replace the chain/sprocket on my 2003 SV650. I've narrowed down my choice to one product but there are two versions:

15/45 110L

15/45 114L

Guys...for the life of me I can't find a difference. Is it the number of links in the chain? Because I can't find what my OEM version is. Looking for any help I can get, thanks!

u/Coolran · 1 pointr/XR650L

I purchased a 600r sprocket from amazon and I had to file a small amount on the backside to get the retaining plate on. This is the one I purchased https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DGyozbRTVXWQM

u/Andonon · 1 pointr/SVRiders

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

  1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.

  2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.

    Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.
u/Evergreen4Life · 1 pointr/CRF250L

I did the install yesterday. It went onto my '17 smoothly without the use of a mallet. Nice tight fit though. Its still hard to find '17+ compatibility info so i thought id share. This thing is still available on amazon for $13.50 prime. Hands down the best $15 you can throw at your bike if you take it off road. You really have to keep it wound up for freeway speeds but i try to avoid them anyhow.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVQOI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jNkcBb67PXS6E

u/jscythe · 1 pointr/ebikes

This is a variant of an L-Faster motor kit. I just recently picked up a 36v version on Amazon for about $90 USD. Let me take you on a dead-end journey.

I bought this kit with the intention of putting in on a donor bike and powering it with three cheap SLA batteries in serial. Shortly after ordering this kit, I get an email from the seller telling me that any battery I use with the kit has to have a working current of 20A or less or else the controller will be fried. Not a big deal since I'm working with SLA batteries of 10ah or less.

When I received the kit, I got kinda antsy and wanted to see if the mounting plate would fit on my current bike only to find out that it did not. But my bike isn't some off-the-shelf department store bike, so I shrug and started looking for a donor bike. After searching thrift stores, pawn shops and yard sales, I find an old steel framed twelve speed for $20 that also has the left side seat and chain stays at the correct angle for the mounting bracket. I figure it'll just be a quick afternoon project to get it running.

Except the kit is meant to be mounted on the left side. The kit came with a threaded freewheel socket that was supposed to just screw into place on on the hub. But this is a department store bike, so the left side of the wheel hub is just smooth, unthreaded metal. So I watch a few Youtube videos to see what I'm missing. and none of them are any help. I would just use the sprocket from a gas motor kit, but that means I have to figure out how to remove the nine tooth fixed sprocket from the motor and mount the sixteen tooth freewheel to the gearbox shaft on the motor.

Right now, I'm thinking about mounting the whole thing on the right side by removing three gears from the cassette and mounting the freewheel sprocket in their place, but I don't even know if that's possible since this bike is probably over a decade old and obviously from Walmart.

In short, you need to know exactly what you're doing before you buy one of these things. It could be exactly what you're looking for. For all I know, it could be a neat little ride for short trips around town, but I have no way to mount this thing and I haven't found a single bike that I can actually mount it to.

u/King-bobby-b · 1 pointr/MotoUK

> Is there a particular crash bar or bung that is considered better than another? (I know this will vary from one bike to another but any recommendations?)

I tend to favour bars over bungs.

Reason being is that they tend to protrude more, they're a little more ugly depending on who you ask but who cares if it's all about safety and keeping the bills low?

> any recommendations for cleaning and maintenance products?

I like "muc-off", personally as far as cleaning goes. You just spray this stuff on, leave it 5 minutes and rinse off.

For cleaning your chain I recommend the good old toothbrush and some chain cleaner.

For chain lube, I think the general go-to is dry lube.

> I'd actually live to make a bike maintenance product and timescale recommendation superthread if that's allowed?

I'm not sure - but there is a motouk subreddit wiki.

u/niborg · 1 pointr/MTB

Since you are deciding between 1x10 and 2x10 (indicating some apprehension of being limited to 10 gears), if you decide to go 1x10, best thing to do is to get One Up's cassette modification kit to widen your gearing range. In that case, you will just need:

u/Neandarthal · 1 pointr/MTB

haha sorry for the newb bicycle limbo. I meant one of those things that protect your chain from coming off in the front. A chain guide to be precise.

I'm looking at this raceface 32T chainring. Would I still need shorter chainring bolts etc?

I have a long cage X9 in the rear. It's a type-2 (which I think is similar to shadow+ but not really sure).

Really appreciate your input. Racing again next week so I gotta get this setup going+trials fast!

u/Typicalsloan · 1 pointr/MTB

Think I'll just get something like this then since it's much cheaper than m7000 cranks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D3FG5EY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A2RNBXAVQ4OOHG&psc=1

u/jburm · 1 pointr/MTB

You dont need to replace the BB unless there's something wrong with it. To go to 1x just get some of these and a chainring

u/snussi1983 · 1 pointr/MTB

Hi there!
My friend is going abroad and i want him to pick up a few things for my bike.
I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told
http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585

is going to work for me but i just want to make 100% sure

this is my bike
http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Mongoose/Teocali-Expert,6360#product-specs

I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts? my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top


u/Rad10Ka0s · 0 pointsr/motorcycles

What bike?

Honestly, something like this is probably perfectly fine.

https://www.amazon.com/XFMT-Heavy-Motorcycles-O-Ring-Master/dp/B06VT91FZ1/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1501675331&sr=8-20&keywords=525+chain

Before chains got fancy with O rings, then X rings then XVXZY rings, we simply went down the to the local bike shop and they pulled how every many links off a big roll.

If you wanted to be fancy, you got the "Made in USA" Diamond brand chain. Otherwise, it was on a roll from Asia.

Although, I run gold plated EK X rings chains now...