Best powersports drive train parts according to redditors

The DRC Edge tail light seems to be pretty common. That's the integrated one with an upgraded circuit board but the one that's just a tail light can be bought here. The Acerbis supermoto fender seems to be popular for the front. My friend has a pair of these Zeta hand guards with turn signals that I really like. As far as racks, my favorite is the b&b rack but they're based out of Australia. Any all metal shift lever such as this or this will probably help with black marks from the rubber on the stock one. I have a Corbin seat from the previous owner and I don't really like it much more than stock. I'd probably get a Seat Concepts or a Renazco. As far as foot pegs, I had a bike with IMS pegs and I liked those for the short time I had it.

> Is this necessary?

Not really.

> Are you supposed to replace the springs too?

The spring isn't associated with changing the Variator. It's for the clutch.

The variator is connected to the driveshaft on the engine and the clutch is connected to the final gear which is connected to the rear wheel. The belt goes between these two and is what transfers power between them.

As the variator spins, weights inside it force a plate in or out and this in turn pulls the belt higher or lower on the variator.

The belt in turn pulls the plate on the clutch in or out depending on how high it is riding on the variator.

If the belt is high on the variator it is low on the clutch, and the opposite if the belt is low on the variator it is high on the clutch.

The ratio between the diameter of each part where the belt is riding is basically the gear the Ruckus is in.

How the spring plays into this is: as the variator spins the weights are thrown outwards due to centripetal motion but without some assistance there's no way for them to return to their base setting other than gravity. This is where the clutch spring comes in. The spring provides a constant force pushing the belt on the clutch to it's widest point on it. This in turn pushes the belt on the variator to it's narrowest point there. This helps reset the weights inside the variator.

Just like it's a pain in the ass to try and drive in 3rd gear from a dead stop it'd be much the same without the torque spring. The Ruck would constantly be in a much higher gear than needed.

Heavier Torque Springs reset the gear ratio much quicker than normal but also slow down how quickly the gear changes.

Lighter Torque Springs take longer to reset (relatively) but go through gear shifts much quicker.

On a normal Ruck, the standard spring is good enough for most applications.

For heavier riders who need lighter weights to get better RPM's, a heavier spring will help delay how quickly those weights will variate.

A lighter spring will also give a better take off response because the majority of the power produced will be available much quicker.

All in all, Torque Springs are not something that's necessary for someone who's doing the standard upgrades. They're more for people who have fine tuned their Ruck and want to narrow down their performance even further.

If anything look into getting a set of 16x13 Variator Weights so you can tune your Ruck to your individual weight.

The Polini Variator I believe comes with 2 sets of weights (5.6 g and 6.8 g) Which allows you to tune at 5.6 g, 6.2 g, and 6.8 g. That's not a lot to work with.

The set above will work from 3.5 g all the way to 13.5 g.

I mean the real ones are like $13 dollars more, don't buy unnecessary food/coffee/drink/whatever for a week and you've recuperated the cost of wondering. https://amzn.com/B00D3FG6ZW

I was facing this six months ago. I found a video similar to this one, where they OP used a homemade version of the tool featured in this video by cutting a simlar shape out of a plastic gallon milk jug - although buying the tool is under $10. You can slip the tool up alongside the seal to clear the grime out which allows the seal to function properly again.

Demo video

SealMate

I weighed 235 when I got it in May, and weigh 220 now.

I guess I shouldn't say stock. Forgot I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket the first week I got it and was able to hit 60 with no headwind, but that costs like 9 bucks on Amazon and takes about 15 mins to swap.

All the other stuff I did just made it quicker, like exhaust, ecu, intake, and clutch springs (which barely helped, should have gotten stronger ones) because the clutch sucks.

Amazon or eBay will have a brake kit.

CNC Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/UAUS-Sprocket-Adapter-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B07ZJ3STLC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1RF5YNX546933&keywords=motorized+bicycle+sprocket+adapter+kit&qid=1574881286&sprefix=motorized+bicyle+sp%2Caps%2C319&sr=8-6

Disc Brake kit: https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Front-Back-Disk-Brake/dp/B07458MXNB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+disc+brake+kit&qid=1574883409&sr=8-1
Note: The CNC hub has a 6 bolt pattern near the center of the hub to bolt the rear disc onto. If you wish to use disc up front, you will need a front wheel or hub that can adapt to disc brakes. You can also find 26" wheels with these disc brake hubs already installed.

Front disc brake will need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Life-Adjustable-Bracket-Mounting/dp/B019OML8VE/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2/136-3711700-3661816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019OML8VE&pd_rd_r=9be28cda-a6eb-4e2e-917e-90974ef50b31&pd_rd_w=wq72u&pd_rd_wg=XttIU&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP&psc=1&refRID=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP

For the front, you will need a new front wheel. https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Rims-Alloy-Front-Wheel/dp/B01FWHAHEE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=26+x+1.75+bike+rim+disc&qid=1574887171&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

Disc Brakes are ideal, (better stopping) but if you don't want to go the hassle of installing them, you can instead opt for v brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cruiser-Steel-73-91mm-Chrome/dp/B000AO5J16/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+v+brake+kit&qid=1574883735&sr=8-12

Use this video as a guide to installing disc brakes on your bike (please note, the rear disc will be bolted to the motorized bike sprocket, so, its mainly good for the front.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emW7M-ZD0Pw&t=104s


Also, if you prefer "Mag" wheels as opposed to spokes, here's a nice set of BBR tuning mags for $119. These Include the motorized bicycle rear sprocket, so the above listed CNC Sprocket Adapter will NOT be needed if you buy these wheels. The Mags are disc brake ready, no additional adapters needed outside of the front and rear caliper mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/BBR-Tuning-Mountain-Cruisers-Motorized/dp/B076PWYSFS/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+disc+brake+wheel&qid=1574884536&refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A6404041011%2Cp_36%3A-20000&rnid=386589011&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-10

Make sure everything fits your bike before purchase. Also, feel free to do some research.

You're going to need a chain brush, chain cleaner and chain lube regardless. So buy them now, try clean it up and if it has no rust on, you should be good.

Chain brush


Chain cleaner (this really helps!)


I've had slight rust on a chain before on one spot, this cleaned it right up. To be completely honest, that chain looks done though. Get a new one to be on the safe side.

Had the same issue with a DB Hook. If it’s that cheap plastic piece above and below your chain ring, don’t bother with their chain guides, get a proper narrow wide chain ring and if you really want to, there’s this guide on amazon.

Origin8 Torqlite UL Chain Guide, Mini Clamp On (31.8 - 34.9mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTLV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.CdBbYGY2MRT

Raceface makes a relatively cheap, well made narrow-wide chain ring.

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ring, Black, 32T 9/10/11 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_waDdBbE7C18PJ

Replace starter gear/bendix and you're money. $5 part had to replace mine a few months back.

Edit: Okay $10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014T9AYYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7TYKBbNKHEN36

> I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585

Yes, that'll do the trick for a chainring. If you don't have a clutch rear derailleur (Shimano Shadow Plus or SRAM Type 2), you should pick up one of those as well.

>I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts?

That should work. You could also get a regular Reverb and not have to deal with funky cable routing. From a service perspective though, I personally think the KS Lev is a better buy. My Reverb has been fine, but they can be a pain to bleed and there have been a fair number of people who have had issues. If you don't have a convenient service center in your country, something more user-serviceable might be a better idea.

>my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top

The important number is how much seatpost you have exposed above the seat collar. Minimum seatpost exposure for a 125mm Reverb is just short of 200mm from the seat collar to the saddle rails. Adjust accordingly for the 100mm and 150mm versions. While you can set the Reverb to any height, it's bad for the seals to keep it lowered for any length of time and it's also a pain in the ass to have to partially re-lower the seat every time you raise it back up. If you are unable to ride your bike with more than 163mm of exposed seatpost, you won't be able to use a dropper - afaik, the Reverb has the lowest collar-to-rail height, and that's the height of the 100mm version.

So you took the existing rings off the stock crank, and just bolted a single, something like this (http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1463960659&sr=1-1&keywords=race+face+narrow+wide) in place? Still seems like I'm close to $200 going with those parts, but I haven't tried hunting for the cheapest prices on different sites yet.

I'm still running the stock Raleigh generic narrow wide that came with my bike, but when I finish destroying it I'll be going with a RaceFace.

Under 40 bucks and really well reviewed, I think they look good too.

Really the best way to do this is with a rear hub motor. I'm guessing your setup uses a mid drive motor.
You could use some parts made for gasoline bikes and add a second sprocket on the left side of the rear wheel, then the pedal-powered drive train would be unaffected.
Here's an example of the parts in referring to, it basically adds another sprocket to the other side of the rear wheel.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QVWSYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TFhXDbEKF3JAD

Outisde of the BBK, you can do quite a bit. A 14t front sprocket will give you a bit more acceleration while reducing your top speed 6.667%. For me, it made 4th gear a little more usable.

You can also modify your airbox for really cheap, get a cool air intake kit(~$100), or just stick a cone air filter(K&N R-1100 ~$40) over the top of your throttle body and remove the entire airbox/snorkel.

Since they're pretty popular, you can also get slip-on mufflers for them. My full yosh system was ~$500 and my buddy did the FMF slip on for ~$300. I'm sure there are cheaper exhaust options out there.

They're just so easy to work on! I was not confident in working on bikes until a friend helped me install the 143 kit and since then I do most of the service on my other bikes too.

Get him a bash guard!! They're super cheap and will let him bash everything in site: https://www.amazon.com/Race-Face-Light-Bash-Guard/dp/B07CKWN57G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_468_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=E4MXRSHMBC2R4461AERT

You should still replace the main chain ring. It'll never be perfectly straight/he'll lose chains. But bend it back in the meantime!

-Trackside Front/Rear stands for easy cleaning

• Degreaser
  
• Chain Brush
  
• Chain Lube
  
• Waterless Wash/Wax
  
• Wheel Cleaner
  
• Wheel Brush
  
  I clean and lube the chain about every 500 miles.
  Never pressure wash your electrical components (I just don’t pressure wash at all). Other than that, just changing the oil per the schedule and making sure everything runs fine.

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

Very nice. Love the new/clean look.

Have you done the almost mandatory first mod of swapping the countershaft sprocket with one made for a xr650r? I recommend getting that knocked out before the first 1000 or so miles.

Reason: The stock sprocket on the countershaft is too thin. If left on it will eventually wear thru the splines on the shaft and spin. When you install it; it will go on backwards.(writing towards the engine)
One of the biggest "What to look out for" when buying a used xr650l is to look at that sprocket and see if it's been welded to the shaft. If you ever see one with a welded sprocket...not swapping is the reason.

http://www.amazon.com/renthal-283-520-15gp-ultralight-tooth-sprocket/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411213226&sr=8-3&keywords=renthal+xr650r+sprocket

Air/Fuel gauge $170
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS
__
12V Impact wrench $25
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html
__
Cylinder head temperature gauge, $39
http://www.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-Temperature-Meter-72-ET3/dp/B0031BIWX2
__
Roller weight tuning kit $33 (there are different weight sizes, what scooter?)
http://www.amazon.com/Prima-Roller-Weight-Tuning-16x13/dp/B00LESCZHS
__
Or a set of a range of carb jets. Again, need to know the scooter type.
__
Scooter Dyno $12,000 hahaha
http://www.dynojet.com/products/dynamometers/dynomodelsd12/dynojet-dynamometer-sd12.aspx


I've never used most of these, so I can't review them. They look interesting to me though.

Is this the part you’re referring to?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014T9AYYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7TYKBbNKHEN36

> Is there a particular crash bar or bung that is considered better than another? (I know this will vary from one bike to another but any recommendations?)

I tend to favour bars over bungs.

Reason being is that they tend to protrude more, they're a little more ugly depending on who you ask but who cares if it's all about safety and keeping the bills low?

> any recommendations for cleaning and maintenance products?

I like "muc-off", personally as far as cleaning goes. You just spray this stuff on, leave it 5 minutes and rinse off.

For cleaning your chain I recommend the good old toothbrush and some chain cleaner.

For chain lube, I think the general go-to is dry lube.

> I'd actually live to make a bike maintenance product and timescale recommendation superthread if that's allowed?

I'm not sure - but there is a motouk subreddit wiki.

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

• Chain
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/RK-520-GXW-XW-Ring-Chain/dp/B002OMSCWK/ $95
    
• Front Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Sprocket-Suzuki-1999-2008/dp/B07BQJS1J4 $45
    
• Rear Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Steel-Rear-Sprocket/dp/B00M9M80UE $50
    
• Rivet Kit
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Y493A $100
    
    

1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.
   
   
2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.
   
   Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.

Yeah the bike is so quiet I kept trying to upshift to an imaginary 7th gear on the freeway.

IDEA Waterproof Motorcycle Gear Indicator LED Display for Yamaha (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07594TBRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zzQyDbBE1R6H6

And the mount which is much nicer than the double sided sticky tape they provide.

Motorcycle Speed Gear Indicator Holder - Dewin Universal Speed Display Bracket for Honda Yamaha Kawasaki https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNF6JLB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RAQyDbJXK74D5

• http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Single-Speed-Converstion-Kit/dp/B00TWQ6XF4
  
• http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG6ZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456934386&sr=8-1&keywords=race+face+34t
  
• http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/gusset-double-six-single-speed-sprocket/rp-prod17775?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAu9q2BRDq3MDbvOL1yaYBEiQAD6qoBthJ0uEuuCv0T4ogPVfr0zKU-zhw9AuODrixE28R_0YaAuiL8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
  
• http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-P-Link-Bicycle-Chain-9-Speed/dp/B000RWE868/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456934656&sr=8-1&keywords=SRAM+971
  
  This would work ? How do i know the race face chain ring size i have to get? 34t, yes, but 104mm, 110mm etc.. ?
  
  
• How about chainring 38, cog 12? gear inches come to 83,4 like that, that seems optimal, is it ?
  
• Or, chainring 34, cog 14? chainring 34, cog 12?
  
• Can i measure the size of the cog i need.
  
• Explain this like im 5

Here is a tuning kit

> do the weights matter if I get some stage six one or some generic ones

Unless you are racing a decent set (of 6) is probably $10 or you can go fancy and get $15 ones. NCY weights are more like $20 but I'd consider that high end fancy schmancy.

It's worth noting that your weights should be inspected/changed every 1000 or so miles anyway, so if you bought used it would probably be good to go ahead and change them. Here is a very good GY6 service manual too BTW

You will likely also (arguably) need a torque wrench for reassembling the transmission and a clutch holder. If you don't have these you can get by using other methods or a strap wrench

Its worth noting there are also sliders that you can use instead of rollers. If it makes any difference probably has to do with the slope in your variator and the design of the slider. There are many, many different combinations.

I found one source that says:

> "for every .5 grams heavier , it seems as if you loose about 250 rpms or so. Maybe a little less. "

but I cannot say if that is accurate or not.

You might also be able to change your variator to get a little bit more difference as well. As with changing weights its something some people seem to swear by and others say does nothing. Either way companies like NCY make nice parts that may be lighter and generate less/dissapate more heat, last longer, and offer a smoother ride than stock parts. If you go this route you can usually do it one piece at a time.

I'm still pretty new to all this though :-O so by all means if someone sees I said something inaccurate let me know!

Stop riding it or you'll lose more fork oil than you need to. https://www.amazon.com/SealMate-Fixes-your-Leaking-Seals/dp/B00ECDLVB8 use this tool and see if that works. If it doesn't, then you may have to reseal your forks which will cost you some new fork seals and an evening with your bike. My idea of a romantic date to be honest.

C'mon man, everyone's doin' it...

Since you are deciding between 1x10 and 2x10 (indicating some apprehension of being limited to 10 gears), if you decide to go 1x10, best thing to do is to get One Up's cassette modification kit to widen your gearing range. In that case, you will just need:

• A new Shimano cassette, as normal.
  
• One Up's 42 tooth sprocket. (You can also get the 40-tooth if you think you don't need so wide a range.)
  
• A front chain ring (go with a narrow-wide design to help keep your chain in place). Here is One Ups's, which is a few bucks more, but gives you spacers so you can use the bolts from your old configuration. A little cheaper is raceface's chainring; not sure it comes with spacers though.
  
• Get a new chain. KMC 10 speed is fine.
  
• Tools: an allen key set, cassette lockring tool (with a wrench), chainwhip, and a chainbreaker tool.
  
  Setting it up is easy, pretty much take out 2 sprockets in the cassette, and put the One Up sprockets in the proper locations. And there are plenty of online guides re converting to 1x10 from the 3x drivetrain (also very straightforward).

Think I'll just get something like this then since it's much cheaper than m7000 cranks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D3FG5EY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A2RNBXAVQ4OOHG&psc=1

You dont need to replace the BB unless there's something wrong with it. To go to 1x just get some of these and a chainring

Hi there!
My friend is going abroad and i want him to pick up a few things for my bike.
I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told
http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585

is going to work for me but i just want to make 100% sure

this is my bike
http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Mongoose/Teocali-Expert,6360#product-specs

I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts? my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top

haha sorry for the newb bicycle limbo. I meant one of those things that protect your chain from coming off in the front. A chain guide to be precise.

I'm looking at this raceface 32T chainring. Would I still need shorter chainring bolts etc?

I have a long cage X9 in the rear. It's a type-2 (which I think is similar to shadow+ but not really sure).

Really appreciate your input. Racing again next week so I gotta get this setup going+trials fast!

I bought this one for my 04 and it fit perfectly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7897TI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm sorry to hear that you already dropped your bike, however i still think that congrats are in order! I just bought one as well - had a ride yesterday, and although it was cold as fuck, it was sooooo much fun.

It is a really great bike - again, congratulations on your purchase.

From what i've seen, smaller replacement parts, such as levers, are quite cheap - on eBay you can get them from 15 to 30 dollars depending on wether you want new knockoffs or used OEM. A new OEM will probably cost a bit more though, but on the plus side, it is somehting that you can replace yourself.

EDIT $22.95 on Amazon

I did the install yesterday. It went onto my '17 smoothly without the use of a mallet. Nice tight fit though. Its still hard to find '17+ compatibility info so i thought id share. This thing is still available on amazon for $13.50 prime. Hands down the best $15 you can throw at your bike if you take it off road. You really have to keep it wound up for freeway speeds but i try to avoid them anyhow.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVQOI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jNkcBb67PXS6E

http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF1321-13-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B001AVQOI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377715391&sr=8-1&keywords=JT+Sprockets+JTF1321.13

You probably need something like this. As you can see, not a huge investment to do the job right. Check your service manual or bike specific forums to see if they recommend a specific tool.

I would not ride around knowing such a critical part is damaged, every ounce of power that the bike makes travels through this part on its way to the transmission. You'll be fine until you aren't.

I plan on doing my clutch on a Honda CTX700 this winter and researched this tool. I have not used it yet, but plan on buying one.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0008-Clutch-Holding/dp/B000HS4NA8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539747355&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=clutch+holding+tool+motorcycle&dpPl=1&dpID=41M7fFZrFOL&ref=plSrch

Also impact tool works, but this tool costs less.

There is also a dog leash method on YouTube. (Basically friction around the outside of the clutch. Like a strap wrench)

Use a torque wrench and make sure bolts are to spec. If not get one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0008-Clutch-Holding/dp/B000HS4NA8

I purchased a 600r sprocket from amazon and I had to file a small amount on the backside to get the retaining plate on. This is the one I purchased https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DGyozbRTVXWQM