Best powersports sprockets according to redditors

We found 22 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports sprockets. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Powersports Sprockets:

u/meltmyface · 4 pointsr/plastidip

I weighed 235 when I got it in May, and weigh 220 now.

I guess I shouldn't say stock. Forgot I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket the first week I got it and was able to hit 60 with no headwind, but that costs like 9 bucks on Amazon and takes about 15 mins to swap.

All the other stuff I did just made it quicker, like exhaust, ecu, intake, and clutch springs (which barely helped, should have gotten stronger ones) because the clutch sucks.

u/LobBobBlob · 3 pointsr/Dualsport

Yes, do the 650r sprocket. Get a cone shaped grinding wheel to slightly flare out the sprocket to fit where the shaft splines taper off, don't just hammer it on as I have seen some do, Also slather the shaft with antizieze or waterproof grease once your test fit is good and a dab of blue locktite on the retainer bolts. The 14t makes it so much more enjoyable and drivable. I used this one. JT Sprockets JTF1307.14 14T Steel Front Sprocket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTW68E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_YAUizbBJWASJM

u/HighDensityPolyEther · 3 pointsr/ebikes

Really the best way to do this is with a rear hub motor. I'm guessing your setup uses a mid drive motor.
You could use some parts made for gasoline bikes and add a second sprocket on the left side of the rear wheel, then the pedal-powered drive train would be unaffected.
Here's an example of the parts in referring to, it basically adds another sprocket to the other side of the rear wheel.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QVWSYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TFhXDbEKF3JAD

u/LBKewee · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Outisde of the BBK, you can do quite a bit. A 14t front sprocket will give you a bit more acceleration while reducing your top speed 6.667%. For me, it made 4th gear a little more usable.

You can also modify your airbox for really cheap, get a cool air intake kit(~$100), or just stick a cone air filter(K&N R-1100 ~$40) over the top of your throttle body and remove the entire airbox/snorkel.

Since they're pretty popular, you can also get slip-on mufflers for them. My full yosh system was ~$500 and my buddy did the FMF slip on for ~$300. I'm sure there are cheaper exhaust options out there.

They're just so easy to work on! I was not confident in working on bikes until a friend helped me install the 143 kit and since then I do most of the service on my other bikes too.

u/a-nani-mouse · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Just swap to a 15T for the front sprocket. It'll reduce those highway RPMs to something a lot more comfortable. Here's how to do it http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_change_the_front_sprocket%3F and here is a link to amazon.com for the sprocket http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF516-15-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B0031743MU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406683261&sr=8-1&keywords=JTF+516.15 it is just under 13$.

u/TrailChaser · 2 pointsr/XR650L

Very nice. Love the new/clean look.

Have you done the almost mandatory first mod of swapping the countershaft sprocket with one made for a xr650r? I recommend getting that knocked out before the first 1000 or so miles.

Reason: The stock sprocket on the countershaft is too thin. If left on it will eventually wear thru the splines on the shaft and spin. When you install it; it will go on backwards.(writing towards the engine)
One of the biggest "What to look out for" when buying a used xr650l is to look at that sprocket and see if it's been welded to the shaft. If you ever see one with a welded sprocket...not swapping is the reason.

http://www.amazon.com/renthal-283-520-15gp-ultralight-tooth-sprocket/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411213226&sr=8-3&keywords=renthal+xr650r+sprocket

u/R6yamajosh · 2 pointsr/Triumph

Gorgeous looking bike, have fun!

I went with Competition Werkes exhaust with the baffle and their tidy tail kit. Fairly cheap, I think $650 shipped from them. I did see the tidy tail separately on Amazon and Revzilla for about $20 cheaper the other day

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQSXb2j4V-/

I've read all over that tuning for the exhaust on the 13+ years is a pain, but isn't neccessarily required. I havnt noticed any difference in power, but it does pop on decel a ton. Some people complain about hesitation off the line, but I havnt had any issues

The M4 GSXR 750 exhaust will bolt right up and looks and sound pretty damn good for $260

https://www.instagram.com/p/BOvLXpTjo-S/

11-16 SUZUKI GSXR600 & 750: M4 GP Series Slip-On Exhaust - Black (BLACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007C68PNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5fIJybTM02DJ6

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQOJNYDhpw/

I reused the old turn signals so I wouldn't have to cut the wires. They included smaller ones with splice connectors

I didn't want to go too crazy and drill a bigger hole so I used their plate light and had to splice 2 wires

The fit and finish of the kit is great for the price. A little gap here or there, but it feels solid and everything works

I also got a Supersprox stealth 45T for $100 on Amazon

+2 over stock and makes a bit of difference. Will fit on a broken-in stock chain too.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPP_VqHjYk6/

Supersprox Stealth Gold 530 45 Tooth Rear Sprocket for Triumph 955 1050 Speed Triple Daytona Sprint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF7XXB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c7HJyb5C9XEJW

My next mod will be a steel braided line for the rear. I noticed that when I took off the chain guard, my chain had touched the brake line and scuffed it a bit. I had to adjust the banjo bolt to avoid it touching again. I'll be replacing that ASAP

u/ParticleSpinClass · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Hello!

I've got a 2012 FZ8, and I just replaced the chain and both sprockets. Here's what I used:

  • DID 525VXGB X-Ring Chain
  • Sunstar 42116 Countershaft Sprocket
  • Sunstar 2-459546 Rear Sprocket

    The problem: Pretty much any time I'm moving, I get a pretty loud whirring/buzzing/whining sound coming from the area of the front sprocket. I'm 98% it's the chain itself, at the moment it rotates around the front sprocket. Here's the facts:

  • Increases in pitch as speed increases (though 35-45mph seems to increase sharply)
  • Increases amplitude as load increases (e.g. it's much louder at 3/4 throttle than at 1/8th throttle)
  • I might have those mixed up (my memory sucks)
  • Only appears under positive load (cruise/acceleration)
  • Almost completely disappears under negative load (deceleration)
  • Still occurs with the clutch in and coasting, but not as loud
  • Stock sprocket has a rubber insert, new sprocket does not (I imagine this could have something to do with it)

    I've adjusted the chain to spec and aligned the sprockets the best I could. When I installed the chain, I cleaned off the grease that came with it with kerosene, let it dry, and went for a test ride. I've since (after the test ride to warm up the chain) applied chain lube and haven't ridden it since. This is the first time I've changed a chain on a bike before. Is this sound normal? Does it go away? It's not terribly annoying, since my leg blocks 90% of the noise (I only hear it when I move my head to the side, or open up my legs), but I just want to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. I torqued all nuts to spec on both sprockets and the axle. I've put the front sprocket cover back on (I had it off during the test ride), so I imagine that it will muffle the sound a bit. I also normally ride with earplugs so that will help too.

    Here's a video that shows the sound. I only get up to aboue 25-30mph, but you can still hear it. Notice that once I cut the throttle, the sound disappears. And keep in mind that it's a lot louder than the video makes it seem.

    Thanks!
u/Andonon · 1 pointr/SVRiders

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

  1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.

  2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.

    Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.
u/jscythe · 1 pointr/ebikes

This is a variant of an L-Faster motor kit. I just recently picked up a 36v version on Amazon for about $90 USD. Let me take you on a dead-end journey.

I bought this kit with the intention of putting in on a donor bike and powering it with three cheap SLA batteries in serial. Shortly after ordering this kit, I get an email from the seller telling me that any battery I use with the kit has to have a working current of 20A or less or else the controller will be fried. Not a big deal since I'm working with SLA batteries of 10ah or less.

When I received the kit, I got kinda antsy and wanted to see if the mounting plate would fit on my current bike only to find out that it did not. But my bike isn't some off-the-shelf department store bike, so I shrug and started looking for a donor bike. After searching thrift stores, pawn shops and yard sales, I find an old steel framed twelve speed for $20 that also has the left side seat and chain stays at the correct angle for the mounting bracket. I figure it'll just be a quick afternoon project to get it running.

Except the kit is meant to be mounted on the left side. The kit came with a threaded freewheel socket that was supposed to just screw into place on on the hub. But this is a department store bike, so the left side of the wheel hub is just smooth, unthreaded metal. So I watch a few Youtube videos to see what I'm missing. and none of them are any help. I would just use the sprocket from a gas motor kit, but that means I have to figure out how to remove the nine tooth fixed sprocket from the motor and mount the sixteen tooth freewheel to the gearbox shaft on the motor.

Right now, I'm thinking about mounting the whole thing on the right side by removing three gears from the cassette and mounting the freewheel sprocket in their place, but I don't even know if that's possible since this bike is probably over a decade old and obviously from Walmart.

In short, you need to know exactly what you're doing before you buy one of these things. It could be exactly what you're looking for. For all I know, it could be a neat little ride for short trips around town, but I have no way to mount this thing and I haven't found a single bike that I can actually mount it to.

u/11chubby11 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

On my DRZ400E (Stock street legal) I changed the front sprocket from 14T to 15T.

I had to grind the case saver (stops the chain smashing into the case if the chain comes off) so it would fit. Or you could buy an aftermarket case saver.

This is the sprocket I bought($15USD). http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF432-15SC-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B005DUMZX2

While you have the front sprocket off you may as well do the loctite mod http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/540670-counter-shaft-sprocket-loctite-fix/

The gearing isn't too high for trail riding for me but I only weigh 65kg so this may not be relevant to you...

This dropped my revs around 500 (from 6000 to 5500rpm) at 100kmh

Any queries I would be happy to answer. I could also tell you about changing the rear sprocket (47T to 43T) if you want.

u/Decembermouse · 1 pointr/DRZ400

Installed:

-Trail Tech 752-119 Vapor computer

-FMF PowerCore 4 exhaust

-JD rejet 39mm FCR carb

-Aluminum skid plate

Purchased (will install):

-Kenda K270 (3.25-21 front, 5.10-18 rear)

-JTR808.41 41T Steel Rear Sprocket

-DID 520VX2GB-110 Gold X-Ring Chain with Connecting Link

-MCCT, red billet

-Silicone coolant hoses

-FMF PowerBomb header

-Kick Start V162

-2011 DR-Z400S subframe

-2-port USB charger / voltmeter

-Weego JSPT524 Powersports Tether

Need to do:

-Free power mod

-Loctite clutch bolts and stator bolts

Cargo, haven't bought anything here yet:

-PMR rear rack and sissy bar.

Haven't decided between side racks:

-Option 1 - metal looks sturdy but has just 2 mounting points

-Option 2 - great that it attaches around back for extra stability, not sure how many actual mounting points it has

-Option 3 PMR again, I like that they seem to hug the bike well but not sure if metal panniers can be used, or just bags. And in fact these only seem to have 2 mounting points as well... what's the weight capacity on any of these setups if they all only have 2 mounting points?

Still researching:

-SM footpegs or similar wide option

-LED headlight bulb

-Steel brake lines

-Windscreen

-What the hell taillight I have and where to find a flat metal sheet to get my license plate to mount on it, since the existing metal plate is broken

-Ceramic coating for FMF PowerBomb header

-Ceramic wheel bearings link link link. Expensive, but would be neat if price were no object. Will be doing mostly street riding.

-Lithium battery or capacitor - this looks appealing, and ThumperTalk carries a capacitor that would cut down on weight but would mean no electric start. I have a kick start kit though so maybe I want to live without a battery, not sure.

-Iridium CR9EIX plug

-Tool kit in one of those black plastic canisters at the rear of the bike on the left, opposite the exhaust tip

-Seat Concepts seat

-Find passenger pegs & mounts to add to the S subframe

Frivolous but tempting:

link

link

link

link

link

link

u/tommysmuffins · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Consider the 16 tooth sprocket for your first upgrade. It will require some minor wrenching and a few tools, but almost everyone agrees that the bike should have come from the factory with the 16 tooth front installed. It makes second and first gear much more usable, and the bike better pretty much all around.

edit: instructional video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkibrlgqL_A

u/Evergreen4Life · 1 pointr/CRF250L

I did the install yesterday. It went onto my '17 smoothly without the use of a mallet. Nice tight fit though. Its still hard to find '17+ compatibility info so i thought id share. This thing is still available on amazon for $13.50 prime. Hands down the best $15 you can throw at your bike if you take it off road. You really have to keep it wound up for freeway speeds but i try to avoid them anyhow.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVQOI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jNkcBb67PXS6E

u/jtunzi · 1 pointr/motorcycles

My guess would be that the spacer or flange is needed to perfectly align with the rear sprocket. It should be evident enough when you take a look under the cover.

It looks like the Vortex sprocket has it, maybe try that next time?

u/Coolran · 1 pointr/XR650L

I purchased a 600r sprocket from amazon and I had to file a small amount on the backside to get the retaining plate on. This is the one I purchased https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DGyozbRTVXWQM