Best pullers according to redditors

We found 90 Reddit comments discussing the best pullers. We ranked the 52 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Bearing pullers
Jaw pullers
Puller sets
Special application pullers
Steerting wheel pullers

Top Reddit comments about Pullers:

u/djjazzygiraffe · 16 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v2G5AbS30MM51

^^^this is my go to favorite seal puller for crank, cam, and rear main seals. A wood screw will work but with this tool it's literally mindless and near impossible to mess up.

u/2rideascooter · 7 pointsr/GolfGTI

I wrapped mine.

I used right at 17yds I think. Just buy a 25yd roll because the price per yard is more than getting the extra.

Remove the front bumper and headlights. Take the front bumper apart. Take of the rear bumper if you want, but I didn't. Probably will when I do it again. You need a special tool to remove the door handles (or to make it easy anyways). You need to remove the door/window trim and side mirrors. Must remove fender side blade badge and hatch badge.

u/AffableJoker · 7 pointsr/GoRVing

I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).

Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.

The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.

u/WebMaka · 6 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Aaaaand added to cart.

u/Person300040 · 6 pointsr/Whatisthis

A mouthpiece puller, looks really similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.ca/Generic-5366-Bobcat-Mouthpiece-Puller/dp/B0002DUQC2

Source: Parents were music teachers, used to have a bunch around the house

u/travisimo · 4 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I just did the Rear Main Seal on my Subaru. Tried that seal puller, couldn't get a good angle on it. This one worked for me finally:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

edit: that red one works better on smaller seals.

u/Macgyver452 · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

Michigan resident here. We deal with horrible rusting situations that can make auto repair absolutely miserable.

An impact gun is critical for seized parts. The hammering action actually breaks up the rust which comes in really handy on something like an exhaust manifold nut. I have a Dewalt 20v lithium impact gun for portability, but it doesn’t even come close to pneumatic tools in terms of sheer torque.

I use an oxy acetylene torch for most work on or around the underbody. PB blaster is great for people outside of the salt belt, but it can’t loosen severely rusted parts. For something like an outer tie rod, I have to get the lock nut glowing red before I can break it loose with an impact – it’s that bad.

For your situation, I have a rotor and drum puller tool. It WILL remove any rotor or drum. I’ve had more than one rotor actually snap in two pieces. It obviously destroys the rotor, but at least it’s off lol.


https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6980-Heavy-Brake-Puller/dp/B004CGOGFS

u/DarthDiaxis · 3 pointsr/ft86

I have this one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/WHDZ-Repair-Damage-Removal-Hammer/dp/B01H88XOOK/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=pdr%2Btools&qid=1551303667&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1

In your case, I think you just might need the dent puller tool instead :https://www.amazon.com/Super-PDR-Bridge-Puller-Removal/dp/B07B9ZLG1D/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?keywords=pdr+tools&qid=1551303850&s=gateway&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1

​

If you can find some old car that has dents on it, I recommend you practice on it if you plan to use the little dent pushers. Watch some videos as well on PDR tools too.

u/olderaccount · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

They are pressed fit to the shaft. The proper way to get them off without any damage is to use a little bearing puller. Not exactly a common tool for the 3D printing crowd.

u/agent4573 · 3 pointsr/Fixxit

That piece of metal looks like it bolts under the chain cover and rides about .25 inches off the chain. It makes sure the chain can't get loose and skip a tooth on the front sprocket. It's also extra protection if the chain breaks, it might stop the chain from flinging forward and taking out the engine case. I may be wrong on identifying this part, that's just my best guess. It's not required to ride the bike, but it's nice to have.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/0kdDaZ4EAyA/maxresdefault.jpg

That's a good example of the guide, this one wraps around almost 180 degrees of the front sprocket.

As for your oil leak, there is no camshaft seal. To get some terminology right, a seal is used to keep oil in between a solid case part and a spinning shaft. A gasket is used between 2 solid case parts that don't move. The camshaft is higher up on the motor and it doesn't have an external seal, so it can't be leaking. This could be your output shaft seal. It goes behind your front sprocket.

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2007-yamaha-virago-250-ca-xv250w1c/o/m145022#sch533970

If it doesn't link directly, put in your bike model, select transmission, oem parts, transmission. Number 25. Youll need an impact gun or a big breaker bar to get the front sprocket off, and a seal puller to get the old one out.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Youll also need a hammer and the proper size socket to use as a driver to put the new on in. Don't forget to grease it up before installing it, helps it go in easier.

If the leak isn't coming from behind the sprocket, post a few pictures of where it is coming from and send me a pm, I'll help ID what's leaking. The only other option on that side of the bike though is the shifter seal or the crankcase inspection port o-ring.

Edit: you don't need a breaker bar for your front sprocket. Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

u/testmule · 3 pointsr/Harley

I run into this every now and then.

  • Sometimes it's just a mater of getting the seal out. The ghetto drill 2-3 holes and put wood/self tapping screws into them and pull or Lisle make a shaft seal puller. I slide a piece of plastic in between the seal and the tube (ala seal-mate style) to protect the tube. Once the seal is out sometimes you can see what is going on or just by getting the seal out it will free up the upper bushing.
  • If people have been mean with a seal puller, snap rings or just sometimes poor machining there will be a little lip that stops the upper bushing from freely sliding out and then the lower tries to go under the upper bushing causing it to close up on the fork tube and stick it in place. This goes back to the above, once the seals out, you might be able to see what is happening and clean it up.
  • Heating. You heat the outer slider around the upper bushing area. The aluminum expands at a much greater rate than the steel tube making the bore diameter physically larger. Sometimes enough to slide the lower bushing under the upper. If the sliders are clear coated or painted this can be a good way to destroy the coating. If they are raw aluminum or polished you can get them much hotter than you think.
  • To press, most shops aren't set up to do this and don't have the fixturing on hand or a press with enough clearance.

    Working with them in the triple tree on the bike or in a old tree in a vise makes it much easier to make better use of the slide hammering action.
u/snowdrif · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

This thing is worth 10x what they charge for it even if you only use a couple times.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427590946&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller

If you can i'd see if a local supply store has them.

u/skiier862 · 3 pointsr/Tools
u/desert_soul404 · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

Picked this up.

OTC 7509 Inner CV Joint Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O825QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z5K6AbE1RPD81


Seems like the easiest solution.

u/smittyjones · 3 pointsr/Tools

Where's the axle stuck? If it's stuck in the transmission or on an intermediate shaft, they make an adapter to kinda cup around the back of the inner housing.

If it's stuck in the hub, they come with a center bolt to help press it inward (put the cone on the hub, then the bolt through it onto the end of the axle). They can't really apply a ton of pressure though. In my experience, if an air hammer won't get it, I need to remove the knuckle and use the shop press.

I wouldn't recommend the HF slide hammer though. HF is $70 (before coupon) but the OTC is $85. HF has 90 day warranty and OTC has lifetime warranty.

So anyway, the problem is that the HF uses a weird thread so you can't use those other attachments that are pretty much standardized to use the OTC thread. So bearing pullers and that axle puller and whatever other attachment can't be used with the HF, and HF may not make all of the attachments you need.

Also, the OTC comes with an additional size hub thing, which is the most common part you'll use.

The HF hub adapter is pretty weak also. Everyone I know that's had one ended up breaking that piece in half. This is my HF that I ended up replacing with the OTC that's been problem free for 10+ years; I probably use it once every month or two.

u/TherapistMD · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

Get a solid two arm Pittman arm puller. Works like a champ.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FEPCFA?pc_redir=1405522959&robot_redir=1

u/andyrooney19 · 3 pointsr/Acura_RSX

I've taken my Tein fronts out a couple times to grease them so I'm familiar with the process at this point.

Consider a pitman arm puller for the tie rod ends, it makes that part of the process go stupid fast. I got this one from Autozone for $12. Might pick up a $2 box of cotter pins because those tend to break and you don't want to go back out for that dumb little part. Also when you use the puller leave the castle nut on the end of the tie rod to avoid damaging the threaded portion.

Get the shop manual (you can find it on crsx) it'll have procedures and torques.

This helped me:

(https://www.kseriesparts.com/gp/SSIICO.html)

From memory:

  • disconnect ABS and brake line brackets

  • disconnect tie rod from strut

  • loosen top bolts under the hood

  • remove the bolts holding the strut to the brake rotor, slowly lower the rotor assembly.

  • hold with one hand while you do final loosening of the other top bolts with your other hand.

  • Slide the strut out.
u/cheez_zombie · 3 pointsr/ElectricSkateboarding

Just replaced my worn Carbon GT pulley with a steel pulley a couple weeks ago! It was incredibly frustrating and took me a lot of trial and error to figure it out, but this battery terminal puller is the main tool I used.

I also bought a heat gun to heat up the pulley's loctite to make removal easier and had to drill out the grub screws because I'm pretty sure I stripped them while trying to unscrew them. You also need a 1/2"-1" screw or small metal rod that fits the 8mm diameter bore of the axle so you can use that as leverage with the terminal puller to pop off the pulley.

This probably sounds unclear and complicated because it totally was to me when I started, but one of my next Electric Wave episodes will be focused solely on explaining this procedure. I've already shot the footage, I just need to edit it together. I'll get it up as soon as I can so you can get yours removed as well. Feel free to DM me with any questions in the mean time and I'll do my best to answer them.

u/omnipotent87 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

You can tap it with the wrench you used to remove the nut. This can free up the wedge they use to tighten the clamp. If tapping doesn't work you can use a screw driver to gently pry the clamp off. Too hard and you can rip the post its self out of the battery, ask me how i know that. If it really gives you trouble get one of these, any parts stores should have them.

u/dsr0057 · 2 pointsr/trumpet

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-5366-Bobcat-Mouthpiece-Puller/dp/B0002DUQC2

Fucking this!! Keep it with you at all times. You could even start charging your fellow band members if you feel like branching out.

u/poof_daddy · 2 pointsr/cars


Thanks. Can i fit this floor jack in my trunk at all times? Should i go low profile or extra low profile? I have a mi nivan

https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-XL2T-Black-Profile-Service/dp/B00BMPFI6I/


u/helljumper230 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Try this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FEPCFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It doesn't always work depending on the size of your crank arm, but you can measure yours and the measurements for a tool like that are on amazon.

I just loosened the crank arm bolts and put this on them to get them moving.

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

The best tool is a slide-hammer with an axle adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7509-Inner-Joint-Puller/dp/B000O825QU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KFabO3-1C8

Autozone has tools to lend including a slide hammer, not sure about the axle adapter part.

u/dabowlb · 2 pointsr/Saturn_Cars

I agree, had to do front wheel bearings on my 00 sl2 last spring and it sounded like this. I replaced them myself using this kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBK2OJO
It was a very involved job, I would not recommend if you haven't done work like this before

u/geaton22 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

If you would like to purchase a couple tools that will make your life easier that would be my preference. Not saying ive never hammered and screw driver bearings out ( it doesnt matter if you beat them up as long as you do not damage hub). I bought a bearing remover for my dirt bike and it works well with my bike as well.

Also you can get a bearing press for cheap money. Makes life easier and you can use it if you ever replace headset cups or anything. You can def. get away with using a socket to pound in the bearing if you do not want the tools.

https://www.amazon.com/TOOL-BEARING-WOB-UNIVERSAL-PRESS/dp/B01MU3K0I1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=37PM0YIDFQV6Q&keywords=tool+bearing+wob+universal+bb+press&qid=1569354103&s=gateway&sprefix=tool+bearing+%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=AMY4I718ZUBOU&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzM0I4VUJORjlYSzBEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMwODIxMzRLTkFUWEdQUkJLOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzE3NjA3MTFORDBNWEo3S1pTVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1219-Professional-Puller/dp/B000FW7W6S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=performance+tool+w1219&qid=1569354202&s=gateway&sr=8-4

u/DudeManBr0 · 2 pointsr/trumpet

Bobcat mouthpiece puller--it's a life saver. You can find it here among other places.

The first thing I would do after getting the mouthpiece un-stuck would be to take all the slides and the valves out and dip that baby (slides and all, but NOT the valves. You can hand-wash those, avoiding the felts obviously) in a tub of warm water and gentle dish soap. Let it soak, scrub the tubing out with a soft brush and then towel-dry with a soft towel. When it's been cleaned out, then you can use a polishing cloth on it that pertains to the finish of it. They make polishing cloths for lacquered brass, as well as ones that work for silver-plated. Just make sure you get the right one.

u/Rad10Ka0s · 2 pointsr/Fixxit

Soak it in penetrating oil overnight. Heat the top of the fork with a heat gun.

Buy one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Use it like this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWLE_jjEKZI

u/k1musab1 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Buy a nut that fits those bolts and rent/borrow a sliding hammer from a car parts store (the ones in my city let you have it for a day with credit card on file for damages). Put the nut on the bolt, grab it with the sliding hammer jaws, proceed to hammer it out.

u/mrmax1984 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I used this puller when removing the inner shaft from a Camry. Worked like a charm. I also was able to reverse the hooks and use it to pull out the old oil seals.

u/Abominati0n · 1 pointr/cars

I have an Arcan floor jack and it's very well made. This one is $100, which is a really good price for a good company.

u/nwvtskiboy · 1 pointr/motorcycles

A seal puller might help. Another trick that I know works on mountain bike forks and might transfer to yours is to pry the seal out with the round end of a tire lever.

u/FlippityFlippyFlop · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I bought [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN9S5X2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) one since out of all the ones I've found on amazon, this one seemed the most promising.

u/Kodiak01 · 1 pointr/mallninjashit

Simpler to just go with a seal puller

u/odddrums · 1 pointr/AskReddit
u/Lxiflyby · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I press these in and out of the knuckle and then press the hub in using an arbor press like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JBK2OJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1501725745&sr=8-16-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=otc+wheel+bearing+tool&psc=1

I usually just separate the lower ball joint, remove the cv axle out of the hub but leave it in the trans, then remove the brake caliper and bracket. I don't reccomend using the arbor press without a powerful 1/2" impact wrench though.

u/nomimasenka · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I just looked up this tool online and it looks like a thing that holds the battery peg downward and pulls upward on the terminal connector easily, looks like its what im wanting since the battery peg is getting ripped out when I just use a screwdriver to pry it. is this the right tool? https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4611-Battery-Terminal-Puller/dp/B000ZIZ32W

u/Morgrid · 1 pointr/povertyfinance
u/grunge_ryder · 1 pointr/Fixxit

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Will that seal puller work with the transmission countershaft still in place?

>>Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

The OP will have to remove 2 small bolts and the sprocket retainer bolted to the countershaft sprocket
to get it off.

u/KevMag · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Here is one but it would be cheaper to buy a new stepper motor and gear.

You could use an arbor press and a grooved plate but most people don't have one hanging out in the garage. Take the motor off and use a lighter/torch to heat it. If it sizzles when you wet it you are above 100C. The motor can probably handle higher temps for a short period. At this point you don't have much to lose.

u/Lobster70 · 1 pointr/Miata

If the radiator top is olive or brown, replace the radiator while you're at it. TYC brand from Amazon is direct fit. Swap over the bushings (ignore the auto trans connections if yours is a manual--they connect to a separate chamber) and reinstall. Also replace the cap. If the plastic rad top is still black, OK to keep as-is.

I would replace the CAS O-ring with a new one and also the valve cover gasket (with a Mazda brand gasket).

Your TB kit should include new cam seals and a crank seal as well as idler pulley and tensioner pulley. I wouldn't mess with the crank seal myself if the existing one is not leaking. Same with cam seals if you don't have to pull them to get down to the head gasket...?

BTW this is my preferred seal puller: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K

Also, it's only part of your planned job but you may find it helpful: TB/WP replacement worklist

u/Kraphtyone · 1 pointr/pelotoncycle

If you’ve got a local bike shop they MAY have one you could borrow. Otherwise I’d buy it from Amazon or directly from Park Tool.

https://www.amazon.com/PARK-TOOL-CCP-44-Crank-Puller/dp/B07CB7Q4FK

u/__--Pete--__ · 1 pointr/Whatisthis

Could be a brake drum puller.

​

Here's a similar design.

https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-20-2029-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B012P0QV5K

u/w3pep · 1 pointr/ElectricSkateboarding

You may need a pulley removal tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Inch-3-Jaw-Gear-Puller/dp/B06XP5J2X1

Also, just double checking that we are talking about the bolts and cover plate that are shown in place, in your picture

u/BigPapaBman · 1 pointr/metalworking
u/Mr_Kleen · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I also forgot to mention about removing that rotor. Check if it has two small threaded holes near between the lug nut studs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOqTd3qbMiw

If that doesn't work you might try one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6980-Heavy-Brake-Puller/dp/B004CGOGFS

u/USMC_92 · 0 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Looks like could be different weights for a slide hammer similar to this slide hammer

u/[deleted] · -4 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

New doc now. We did the helmet for our daughter.

DIY!!

https://www.amazon.com/ARISD-Paintless-Dent-Repair-Puller/dp/B07BN9S5X2