Best rca cables according to redditors
We found 2,982 Reddit comments discussing the best rca cables. We ranked the 584 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 2,982 Reddit comments discussing the best rca cables. We ranked the 584 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
People already linked the other two $150 stereo receivers from Best Buy but there's also this one that you should be able to price match to Amazon for $130 (or just buy it from Amazon).
If you don't want a gigantic amplifier I also recommend the Topping MX3 for $94 at Amazon.
You're also going to need some speaker wire which is probably overpriced at Best Buy and some type of cable to get sound from your computer to an AV receiver if you don't want to use bluetooth.
Quick list of what you are looking at
I'll make a list of stuff you need. For the best "bang for your buck" in the $200ish price range.
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Speaker wire. Amazon Basics makes great stuff. If you want, you can get 100 feet of it for an extra $2 I think. You can get those monoprice banana plugs if you want. They just help if you're going to be switching speakers around a lot.
Simple wire stripper. Should work just fine.
Cable to plug it in. That'll just plug the amp into a computer. And that cable is amazing quality. For real. I don't know what it is about it, but the moment I touched that cable I knew it was special. This isn't a joke either. You'll understand when you get one. Trust me.
50 watt per channel amp. This thing will be more than enough. I just like it because it is open box, so cheap. The same one new on amazon is $65. If you want to order from amazon, you can just get the smsl sa-36a. Same amp, just 20 watts per channel. Which, again, is plenty.
[Here's that cheaper smsl amp] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U2NSBbTRHGFS5). I've got a few of them. They're great. This is what I'd go for if the other one is sold out.
Cheap but good little amp. I don't have one of these because I'm not a fan of the looks, but they get great reviews and a lot of people really like them.
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Speakers:
Miccas. These things are nice for that price. In this price range, you really won't be getting anything better unless you go DIY.
Fluance SX6. These guys are big, but they throw a good amount of sound and some pretty deep bass for a pair of bookshelf speakers. Careful, they're pretty big.
Pioneer. These things are decent, but I think the Fluances would be better for this price. The SX6s throw more bass, which is good if you're not getting a sub. However, these are smaller.
Fluance signature series. I know, you said your budget is only $200, but you said if you need to spend more, then you will. These will sound better than all of the other speakers linked, however, that's not why they're here. I put them here for two reasons. The first is that they're front ported. Most people that are new to speakers might put them up against a wall or close to it, not understanding that the port needs some room to breathe. These have front ports so that's not a problem. The second reason, just look at them. If you really care about looks, these ones are the ones. They're beautiful. (My opinion obviously).
Oof almost forgot. Pleaae don't place the speakers directly on your desk.
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That's a lot. I'll sum it up with my opinion and why.
Amp: smsl sa36a. For close range, you don't need anything with more power. This thing will do whatever you need for bookshelf speakers.
Speakers: micca mb42x. Why? Here's why: for this price range, you won't notice a huge difference in any speakers, unless you get some bad ones. So, get the cheapest ones you can. Later on, if you can afford to upgrade them, you'll probably want to do that. Then you'll have a pair of $80 speakers that you don't need rather than a pair of 130 speakers that you don't need. Another reason I would pick the miccas is because they punch above their price range. Most people say they sound more like a pair of $125 speakers rather than a pair of $80 speakers. So, for real, they're good. Also, they're the smallest of the bunch.
Or, build a pair of C Notes and get something way better than any of these.
Hope this helps!
There are ways to do it. I don't know if your using an xbox or a ps3, but either way if you are using the red/white/yellow analog connectors, just slap one of these onto the console's output and then plug in your headphones. that should work for anything using the three red/white/yellow hookups.
However, if your Xbox360 is plugged in via HDMI, you will instead need one of these which plugs in to the component port on the back, and one of these to make it work with the headphones. Note that the xbox adapter comes with an optical port which you will use should you upgrade to high-quality headphones ;)
With this setup you will get audio out to headphones. To get chat in the headphones, go to the preferences, select chat, and output to speakers.
Note that this system doesn't allow for a microphone. You can go ahead and leave the microsoft headset around your neck, or you could get the ever-popular zalman clip-on and this adapter to plug it in to your controller.
They really make this harder than it ought to be :/
Also consider audio extension cables of varying lengths because you'll notice that the adapter cables are not very long.
The easiest way to hook up your favorite headphones is to use an Astro Mixamp. It will include all the needed cables and included a swanky volume knob and a balance knob to adjust game sound and voice levels. Much more expensive, though! At the price for the mixamp, you may as well just buy the whole system which includes a headset as well.
I would link stuff for PS3 using an hdmi cable as well to make an all-inclusive guide, but I simply don't own a PS3 so I can't be certain.
KEF Q100 ($250)
Micca AD250 DAC/Amp ($100)
Micca speaker wire ($20)
Dayton SUB-1000 ($120)
3.5mm to RCA cable (for sub) ($8)
Total: $498
This would be a solid, solid setup for really fantastic value.
Thanks. I don't have a link but I'll try to explain step by step.
So the setup is: TV inputs --> TV --> digital splitter --> D to A converter --> RCA splitter cables --> these two amps --> Polk speakers. It sounds surprisingly good with strong bass and crisp highs. I can control all three volumes independently (family room receiver and each of these amps). I just used it for a big party we had Saturday night (80+ people). I had a playlist in iTunes on my computer served up by my Plex server. This was then picked up by my Roku 3 attached to the TV. It worked flawlessly.
You can connect the Magni with a 3.5mm>RCA cable to the line out (green port) of the motherboard. Mobo audio should be at 100% and only the knob on the amp controls the volume. If that gives you clean sound without any distortion or constant electrical noise, you don't need to get a DAC.
Everyone here is making this so unnecessarily complicated. I just picked up DJing last year myself and it's not hard to start at all. I did quite a bit of research on what DJ controller would be the best for someone who is just starting, but also wants to have something more than a simple mixer.
Good luck and have fun! It's a blast to get into
I FORGOT you obviously need a laptop and some speakers. Any speakers will do, just make sure it's RCA output. Here is a cheap converter if you currently have a 3.5mm output.
RCA piggyback
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536714638&sr=8-3&keywords=piggyback+rca
If you want to use the center channel you’ll need more than a basic 2-channel amp - you’ll need a home theater receiver. Any old 5.1 system will do. You should be able to get them used for well under $100. Their main downside is their size.
You’ll also need speaker cables - 16 gauge is fine unless you want to run them over 15-20 feet or so, then 14 ga may be an improvement.
Then run an aux cord from the PC sound out to auxiliary input on the receiver. You may need an adapter like this to go from 3.5mm to RCA inputs (or something that does a similar job).
No special audio interface needed if you’re not doing surround sound. Stereo input for the left/right/center channel is fine.
These are the definitive budget studio monitors over on /r/BudgetAudiophile. I have the lsr308s and wish I got these. The 308s are fuckin huge! But they have the same sound as the 305s just with... more power. I keep my 308s dialed at 4/10 volume and then adjust with my ampdac.
Don't use adapter cables for these. Use high quality direct cables because I got nasty hiss/feedback when using adapters and even direct cables that were cheap. I believe I ended up with these and they're decent. I still get some feedback but that seems dependant on which power socket I used. Using a crowded socket or having my cables run near a bunch of other cables seems to make it worse.
Volca beats uses a dual unbalanced mono signal. When you use headphones, the same mono signal is going to the left speaker and the right speaker using the left and right connections of the cable, which causes no problems. When you use an audio interface, you're plugging a cable carrying two identical signals into a jack that's expecting two identical signals but with one of them phase inverted. Your audio interface is probably expecting a mono balanced input, which is not what it's getting. Normally with a balanced input, the signals are sent phase inverted. The receiving hardware then flips the inverted signal and the signals are combined.
With the dual unbalanced signal, since neither signal is being sent phase inverted, when the receiving hardware inverts the signal it becomes phase inverted. When the signals are combined, you're left with just the noise/distortion that a balanced cable is normally trying to eliminate.
Korg really should've made this more clear with the Volca series. FYI - here is the cable I'm using, which works fine (I only use one of the 1/4" plugs).
I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.
My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.
*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**
I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
They're powered speakers, meaning you don't need an amplifier or receiver.
You can plug them straight into a computer using this cable.
Yes, your way will. See my second solution.
One way to do it:
Turntable PC
| |
Preamp DAC
+----Switch---+
|
Vali2
|
Preout--+--HeadphoneOut
| |
Speakers Headphones
When it comes to the switch, if you want a pretty silver one to match your Vali2 and Modi2, the Schiit SYS passive preamp will do the job. It will also give you a nice volume knob to use with powered speakers.
As for outputs, I believe your Vali 2 will switch between them depending on whether headphones are plugged in. If you want to be able to use both for whatever reason or want to be able to use your speakers without unplugging headphones, want to be able to use them without turning on headphone amp, etc., then use a Y splitter infront of the headphone amp, giving you:
Turntable PC
| |
Preamp DAC
+----Switch---+
|
Y splitter
| |
Vali2 Speakers
|
HeadphoneOut
|
Headphones
I used to run this exact setup, but I moved my turntable to another system. So now I just use the Schiit SYS that I have no need for anymore instead of a Y splitter. If you keep the volume up, you can use it to switch between two outputs with the button on the front. There are cheaper tools to do this, and I would suggest the Y splitter if you go this way.
I've built a bunch! Those instructions are fine. Only thing I'd change is I'd use a round speaker terminal cup in step #14, rather than the square one they show in the picture. Something like this in other words. Just because it's easier to cut a round hole -- you can just use a round circle cutting bit in your drill. You can get them for as low as like $2ea on Amazon or elsewhere.
> Do I need an amplifier?
Something like a cheap Lepai is fine.
A "real" amp like this or this or a used home theater amp for $50 from Craigslist will more or less get the full 100% of performance from the Overnight Sensations at higher volumes. A small Class D amp like this is a good compromise IMHO.
All of those amps ought to sound the same at low volumes. For "desktop listening" where you're sitting a few feet away, the Lepai should get plenty loud.
> Do I need a digital to audio converter?
Probably not. With the possible exception of the Lepai, all the amps I linked to have a dual RCA audio input. The typical "red and white audio inputs" you've surely seen in many places. All you need is a basic headphone-to-RCA adapter like this, assuming your music playing thingy has a headphone jack.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483958406&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+to+rca
To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.
DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI
Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC
Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K
Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2
Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ
With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O
Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S
This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.
1: Use a RCA->1/4" M-M cable
2: Buy some of these super handy adapters and use them with a regular RCA cable
I have never heard of "cinch cables", and a web search only turns up what are basically zipties, so I don't know what your friend is on about.
Bring an RCA-to-RCA cable, definitely, since you'll most likely be plugging your controller's RCA output into one of the RCA line inputs on the club's DJ mixer. But I'd also bring either an RCA-to-phono cable, or a pair of RCA-to-phono adapters, because sometimes you'll need to plug into a PA style mixer instead, which will use 1/4" phono jacks for its stereo line inputs.
I also carry an RCA-to-XLR cable - I don't need it very often, but it's nice to know that I'll always be able to plug in, no matter what kind of crazy situation I encounter.
Plug in to audio out-
Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eTqIzbXYC6G3A
Btw, nice effort on the è but you want the other one: fiancé
It's easy to remember: é the stripe goes on and so does the sound. è the stripe stops and the sound is short
I don't really have a recommendation, but make sure you decide on how you'll setup your audio connection. Like if you want to use speakers get a monitor with a audio out port, or you could plug them directly into the ps4 controller but I got annoyed being tethered so I ended up buying like three adapters
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/
https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1410806118&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=rca+-+1%2F8+femail
RCA - female 1/8 inch, assuming your computer speakers have the 1/8" connector.
It may not have a 3.5mm audio out, but does it have a component audio out (red and white plugs)? If so you can get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1332977123&sr=8-7
Here's the best way to handle this. I'm making assumptions that you have a smartphone and the RCA jacks in your car's armrest.
Get the following.
Take the 3.5->RCA cord and plug the RCA ends into the aux jack inside the armrest. Put the USB charger in the 12v socket that's also in the armrest. Take the bluetooth transmitter plug in the power (with the supplied micro USB to normal USB cord) and plug in the 3.5 end of the RCA cord to the jack on the transmitter.
Once the car is on and the transmitter is powered up, pair your phone to the transmitter per the instructions that came with it. After its paired, put all the wires and the transmitter in the armrest and forget about it. You'll never have to deal with it again unless something goes wrong.
Now take the CD player car mount, and turn it so it's horizontal. Put your phone in it and adjust the sides to make sure it doesn't slide out. Switch your car audio system to AUX and leave it there. The only downside is you can't control the audio from the steering wheel. The only thing you can do is adjust the volume.
Now you have an always updated nav system that has guidance and the ability to listen to all your music via the car stereo. I wouldn't try any other BT transmitter. It's the key to the whole deal and I know that one works. The rest of the stuff is universal and pretty generic. You may have some/most of them already. You can really shop around for the USB charger, RCA cable and CD player mount and get the cost down more. The whole setup should be around $75 or less.
This is by far the most effective, economical way to get what you want. There isn't really a way to update or modernize the stock equipment outside of buying a new car. I'm pretty sure that's by design.
You'll want a DAC or audio interface to get the most value out of these.
You can run these with a 3.5mm to 2xTS adapter but you'll be much more susceptible to grounding issues/noise.
The best solution would be to get a device that has balanced TRS/XLR output (both are electrically equivalent, pin-for-pin).
I love the look of the old rack systems. They may not have top of the line components but they still sound pretty good.
It looks like your setup was well taken care of! If I were you I would do the following:
Just pick up something like this and plug it in to your phone and the receiver and you're good to go.
You will want three 3.5mm stereo jack to RCA cables.
Each one of those three 3.5mm outputs on the rear of your motherboard output two channels:
My guess is a set of 3.5mm male jack to y split RCA male jack cables. The idea is that you're using the onboard DAC of your macbook, and so the signal running into your magni should be analog already (hence coming from the 3.5mm as opposed to USB)
EDIT: Here's an amazon link to what I'm talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0094A1F3S/ref=sxts_sxwds-tsp_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502737902&sr=1&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3155181382&pd_rd_wg=6JGGN&pf_rd_r=SEMDWMKMB2F1525836EN&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B0094A1F3S&pd_rd_w=SvWFK&pf_rd_i=3.5mm+to+rca&pd_rd_r=8KY5TN4QKTAN8WF4WWV0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
If I'm wrong someone please correct me before this guy wastes 7 bucks.
You need a RCA to 3.5mm male https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LM2Y2U4/
There's no cheap, high quality way to do this. You're either going to pay a bunch for a Gamecube specific adapter or you're going to get a subpar experience through an inexpensive composite to HDMI adapter that's liable to result in latency issues.
Since there's lots of examples in this thread on the higher quality solutions, here's a cheap(er) low quality solution. This is the current "best seller" composite to HDMI video adapter on Amazon, no clue how well it works but it claims to do what you're looking for. Since your monitor doesn't allow for audio, you're going to have to get some speakers in the mix. If you've already got computer speakers with a 3.5mm plug (like headphones have), you'll need to use an RCA to 3.5MM adapter with females on both end to go between the Cubes audio cables and the speakers.
You could also get a low-latency gaming-oriented capture card, I don't know enough about this to even recommend something. For my money, I'd just spend $15 on a tube TV from Goodwill.
Another person asked a similar question a couple weeks ago. Here's the response I have him, which will likely help you:
Yes, you can use a computer monitor as a display for your PS3 (or nearly any video game console for that matter). There are multiple ways to set this up; I'm going to provide you with what I think is the easiest and what will give you the highest quality based on your setup. Note that there are other ways to do this, but I guarantee these instructions are what you are looking for.
-----
What you need you need to have:
If you don't have these cables, you can order them online or get them from Best Buy or Radio Shack (but they will be much cheaper online).
Note: the audio adapter I mentioned above only supports traditional, analog speakers. In other words, make sure your speakers plug in using this type of connector.
The HDMI to DVI goes from the PS3 into your monitor. The PS3 composite cables also get plugged into your PS3, and attach the audio adapter onto the red and white plugs on the PS3 composite cable (the yellow plug will just hang loose). Now, plug the headphone-style adapter into your speakers.
On the PS3, just ensure that under Audio Settings, that "Multi Channel Output" is turned on.
And that should do it. Hope this helps!
So this came to a surprise to me, just because I haven't had that much experience with this kind of gear.
Here are my notes:
I don't have enough details, but I think you're connecting your volca (stereo) to a line in (mono) and it's getting messed up because the mixing board is expecting mono.
I figured this out by taking one of my 3.5mm TRS to 6.35 mm TS cable only using the T and it worked fine.
My final solution was to buy a TS 3.5mm to TS 6.35mm cable for each of my volcas and everything works fantastically now.
edit: if you're using a volca sample, which is actually stereo, you'll want to split the TRS to 2x TS and put it into two channels on your mixing board.
I’ve found these added a lot of breath and instrument separation, as well as being very dynamic.^/s
go and get the self powered version of the speakers, the PB42x.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXAEPDC
hook them up to your TV using an RCA connection
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/
in your TVs menu, under audio settings, set the audio output to variable. voila, your TV remote controls the volume of the RCA outputs.
your done at around $130-140.
start saving for subwoofer. preferably one with high passed outputs. if you are fine with sticking to 2ch for the foreseeable future, you can skip the receiver.
For the time being, I use an Audeze LCD-2 Classic through a Schiit Lyr 2 and a Schiit Modi 2 Uber. I use Røde Procaster as a mic and Behringer Q502USB as a mixer.
I've listed my recommendations and suggestions below. There's also some info you should know if you want to get more value for your money. I know it's a lot, but I've explained in the least technical way I can and there are many benefits with this over all-in-one "gaming" headsets. Just ask me if you have questions.
Headphones:
Open-back
Closed-back
I have AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Beyerdynamic DT990 Edition (600 ohms), Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598 SR, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669 and Superlux HD681 EVO of these headphones, and can recommend them for different needs, preferences and budgets.
 
The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.
 
Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.
If you want louder rumble, then you want linear or emphasized sub-bass. This is easier to find in closed-back. Open-back typically has rolled off sub-bass with the exception of planar magnetic / orthodynamic headphones. If you come across HE400i, an open-back planar, then note that the revision had a backplate removed and therefore causes a bass roll-off, a larger soundstage and brighter treble than the original.
If you want louder impact, then you want emphasized mid-bass.
 
Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.
Regarding virtual surround sound:
You're going to come across a lot of stereo elitism in audio enthusiast forums if you bring up virtual surround sound. Virtual surround sound isn't bullshit or a gimmick. That's coming from someone who generally prefers stereo much more than virtual surround sound and has bought Q701, AD700x, DT990, Fidelio X2, HD598, HD700 and HD800 in pursuit of bigger and better soundstage and imaging to get the same three-dimensional space and environment of sound that virtual surround sound produces.
Virtual Surround sound varies a lot from DSP (digital signal processor) to DSP (CMSS-3D, Dolby Headphone, SBX, etc.) How you perceive it compared to stereo also depends on the soundstage and imaging properties of the headphone and how well games are mixed. No matter how large the soundstage is and how good the imaging is, stereo doesn't sound fully three-dimensional as virtual surround sound at all times. Dialogues and very loud sounds like tanks, jets, trains, bonfires, collapsing buildings, galloping horses, etc. near you tend to sound very intimate and dominate in either ear when you don't face them.
Virtual surround sound has its drawbacks too: it compresses and degrades the sound quality. I find it most noticeable with rain, waterfalls and splashing water; they sound akin to white and pink noise. Subtle details become faint or not audible. When headphones already have decent soundstage, imaging and separation, I find that virtual surround sound diffuses the positional audio and the ability to pick up audio cues. For competitive shooters, I only use stereo.
I've used Dolby Headphone and SBX personally and listened to several others through videos on YouTube, and I prefer SBX from Creative when it comes to sound quality compared to Dolby Headphone and positional audio compared to all of them.
 
Mics:
Attachable to headphones
Alternatives
Sound cards:
Headphone amplifiers and DACs:
The PS4/DS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or an amp and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook.
If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.
There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.
If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.
Sound cards have an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the same source, then you have to use a sound card unless the amp has a separate jack for the mic and officially supports PS4, e.g. Mayflower ARC. Creative Sound Blaster X7's mic jack doesn't work with PS4. If the mic has an own cable and the source has only one jack for the headphone and mic, then you'll have to use a TRRS Y-splitter, also called a 4-pole Y-splitter. It has three black rings on the connector.
If you don't mind the headphone cable and mic cable going different places, then you can connect the headphone to an amp and a DAC, and the mic to the controller, which requires a TRRS Y-splitter in order to work.
USB mics connect directly to the USB port on PS4. You can also use an XLR mic, but they require a mixer. Interfaces don't work with PS4 because they require drivers.
To use an amp, you need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. USB DACs may reverse the left and right channels or not work at all, so I have only included DACs that use optical, which is completely reliable. You can use an HDMI-to-optical converter if you have Slim.
To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.
Alternatively, you can use a sound card that merely functions as an audio USB adapter. Since the V-MODA BoomPro connects to the jack on the headphone and replaces the original headphone cable, you'll need to use a Y-splitter, which is included with the BoomPro.
If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the controller but want volume and mic controls, you can use either of these:
This is the best option. I would plug audio into a stereo too. The sound plugged into the projector would suck.
> our HTR (Sony STR DN1030) does not have a true analog input that he can connect his phone to using a 3.5mm cable.
This is not correct. Your receiver has plenty of RCA analog inputs. A simple 3.5mm to RCA cable will connect the phone to one of the line inputs. You have at least two sets of RCA analog audio in's on the lower left (looking at the back).
$8 on Amazon or available at any Best Buy, Walmart, Target, etc.:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497064068&sr=1-4&keywords=aux+to+rca
Check the link below:
AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mpfaCb2WZ9XBZ
It’s cheap and works well, if you don’t plan on using external DAC that cable should be all you need :)
Enjoy your Magni :)
You're going to need an amplifier to use them on your pc. I personally use a powered subwoofer that connects my speakers to my pc. You can find cheap amps on Amazon for like 20 bucks.
This one for example seems like it would work. Just plug your pc audio out into the audio input on the amp and connect the speakers via speaker wire to the terminals. I've used very similar devices with my bs22's and it worked great. You just may need an rca to 3.5mm adapter to connect your pc to the amp, like this one.
I'm bad at explaining things, if you have any more questions let me know!
One of these cables in the Red & White jacks on Channel 7-8 will work https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2?th=1
An 1/8" (laptop/iPad) to RCA (KRK unbalanced in) cable. Don't try to go stuffing an unbalanced out into the 1/4"/XLR ins.
Optionally, a pair of HS8s.
Does the the tv have phono/RCA on the back? If yes you should be able to use something like this to get sound to the docking station and still get sound from the TV speakers.
Are you serious? Thats a subwoofer it only produces low frequencies. You need a set of regular speakers to get full spectrum sound. The picture of the dog makes me wonder if this is a joke about woofers.
Edit: That subwoofer is part of a 5.1 speaker setup and you only have the sub, the other speakers plug into the sub. The only way to get sound from both the tv and the sub is to use a splitter like this and plug into the tv as well as the sub.
> and by saying at the same time i mean that you can swap between them in e.g. windows speaker settings.
not this way. you cant use your pc to control which way down the rca cable a signal will go.
just get a splitter cable. it will output sound to both, just turn off the one youre not using. i used piggyback cables for that http://www.amazon.com/Cblwhl-Female-Piggyback-Audio-Cable/dp/B000I94FAE
edit: also if you insist on a switch there are many rca switches im sure you can find online. if you want something keeping to the theme of the schiit stuff you already have, get the schiit sys as your switch http://schiit.com/products/sys
I have done this on a 2017, which uses the same system and can be swapped out in the same fashion. There are a few caveats that may sway your decision however.
I used the iDatalink Maestro RR with the TO2 harness that allowed a very straight-forward installation with no modification to the factory wiring. This is not where this story ends, however.
The Maestro and harness kits do not come with the adapters required for factory USB, Aux (sort of), AM/FM radio, GPS, Satellite Radio, or any integration for the factory microphone. This last part is what has pained me the most in this whole thing, as I've yet to install the aftermarket microphone or make the attempts necessary to try to get the factory one working. I've got lots of wiring diagrams, but no free time.
I used this Axxess adapter for the factory USB. Fits perfectly, just plug into the radio and the factory connector. Wrap the radio USB end with TESA tape so it doesn't disconnect.
The antenna adapters for GPS and Satellite Radio are available from iDatalink as the ACC-SAT-TO2 kit. They should connect directly to the factory harnesses and then to the new radio, but if they don't work for you this is not required to be a specific iDatalink replacement so you may be able to find another brand that works.
I think I ordered the Metra 40-LX11 for the AM/FM radio antenna but I have yet to actually install it so I'm not 100% positive this will work. It says for select 08 and newer Toyota/Lexus vehicles and most Toyotas are fairly similar when it comes to these connectors. Especially given that the Entune radio available in the Corolla is the model used in other non-Corollas I'd imagine it's more likely to be compatible.
For auxiliary input, you do get the aux connection as RCAs, but you may need to invest in a female RCA to male 3.5mm adapter. Don't bother with the one that has red white AND yellow because it's only wired for red and white (audio). Something like this should work fine.
Oh and for actually installing the radio, just get this dash kit. Don't make my mistake and get the cheaper Metra one, it's not worth it.
I hope this is probably more than enough information to get you on the right track. Feel free to PM me if you have questions!
Hey all!
This is probably old news for many of you but for those thinking of setting up GroovyMAME with CRT_EmuDriver, do it; you won't be disappointed. It is a little bit of mucking around but the fruits of your labour are well worth it.
Some helpful links that I've collected along the way:
GroovyMAME -- Get the latest GroovyMAME from here. This forum is also pretty active so if you get stuck, you may find someone else in a similar spot as you. A great resource!
CRT_EmuDriver -- Get the latest CRT_EmuDriver versions here. Also has guides for setting up based on your selected hardware / software setup.
Wavebeam Guide -- Excellent and comprehensive guide from Wavebeam detailing the entire setup (including software and hardware requirements). Given that it is over a year old, use it as a reference to give you an idea of what is involved. The hardware aspects are pretty much the same now, but some of the pieces relating to software you will want to seek more up-to-date info.
Buttersoft Windows + CRT / PVM Guide -- buttersoft's supremely thorough thread on hooking your PC up to your CRT / PVM. Lots of great info here.
GroovyMAME Setup Thread -- Recap's thread on setting up GroovyMAME. The guides and posts on the Eiusdemmodi forum are descriptive and thorough. In particular, you should read this post as it has useful information pertaining to audio latency (search for 'PortAudio') and I foolishly missed it the first time and wasted a lot of unnecessary time with ASIO4ALL.
As for my setup, before I begin, I will point out that it is not ideal for someone planning to avoid Windows and boot directly into a MAME frontend. For that, you should really consider a discrete card that be flashed with Calamity's ATOM-15 -- more info here. I went the way I did because I wanted to be able to keep my computer relatively versatile given that I already have a dedicated cabinet.
With that out of the way...I spent probably more than I needed to getting this up and running. I couldn't find a whole lot of info about people who have set this up on relatively "new" hardware. Most people tend to favour older OS's and discrete cards, whereas I was more interested in Windows 10 and an AMD APU based system after reading this post outlining the hardware behind the recent SkyCurser arcade game. Enough waffling on:
It is all hooked up to my Olympus OEV-203 via a VGA to RGBHV cable, with the H/V sync on a BNC Y adaptor (male to dual female). I am just running the audio through the mono speaker on the PVM at the moment using a 3.5mm to RCA cable with a RCA Y splitter.
Hope this helps some of you. Good luck!
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sxts_kp_bs_tr_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=dbvVV&pf_rd_r=RBNP7VWXFTWQEFFDDP75&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B005HGM1D6&pd_rd_w=URFvj&pf_rd_i=3.5+mm+to+1%2F4&pd_rd_r=07adf82d-8513-4aec-8728-7bc3131f30fe&ie=UTF8&qid=1543252309&sr=1
More speakers doesn't equal more immersive. When buying sound equipment a lot of the value comes from things not properly listed on specifications, such as total range frequency within a certain amount of total harmonic distortion.
A good set of studio monitors is a better sound solution than most people have ever owned.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GP56OYA - Some slightly above entry level studio monitors.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6 - Connection cable needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Studio-Solutions-Density-Isolation-Monitors/dp/B01FGCC2FM - Isolation pads to prevent desk vibration and angles them towards your ears properly.
Assuming your motherboard isn't using a really poor audio chipset and you are using a high quality audio source they will sound pretty good. If you want to hit frequencies below 70Hz with significant volume I suggest adding a dedicated subwoofer of 10" minimum, although 12-15" is more ideal.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_0eCJwbBQKJXP3
A pair of LSR305s and this cable.
You need a 3.5mm to TS cable like this. If you were to use optical, you would need a DAC (because the speakers take an analog input and optical is digital.
A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.
Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/
Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/
Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-105-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYF/
Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XM1800S-BEHRINGER-ULTRAVOICE/dp/B000NJ2TIE/
or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/
or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-enCORE-100-Studio-Grade/dp/B002SQJL9U/
A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit
https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Cable-Male-Female-Microphone/dp/B074KYQ66J/
On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)
https://www.amazon.com/Stage-DS7200-Adjustable-Microphone-Stand/dp/B0002M3OVI/
You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.
https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patch-Cable-Cords/dp/B0010XVYGA/
or you can get by with one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16/
and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30
https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI/
This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.
!
EDIT: Corrected diagram based on suggestions below.
Made your solution plan into a diagram for clear graphical representation. The cables needed that Destiny probably doesn't have/didn't order yet:
Rca splitters or selectors. Super cheap ones on Amazon, or shell out a bit more for a nicer one.
Like this: Hosa YRA-104 RCA to Dual RCAF Y-Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JOz7xbWBZ5BPZ
Or: Fosmon Technology 3-Way Audio / Video RCA Switch Selector / Splitter Box & AV Patch Cable for Connecting 3 RCA Output Devices to Your TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yPz7xbR6BCQ6B
Nicer: Four Input Source Tabletop Control Switch Box Internal Pc Board Design Metal Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056EK7Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Qz7xbAK8CJFZ
Done new afraid to get one made for AV, there's no difference. You just won't use the video rca jack.
Here's a nifty little item that might work for you, if you have a way to use component cables instead of hdmi/dvi conversion You could just plug your headphones directly into the wii u sound output. Hopefully your headphones have a volume control, but if not you could just get one of those, too
I use an ultra basic setup to connect my LSR305 to my desktop PC which does not have a dedicated sound card (motherboard audio jack only).
I plug a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA female into the motherboard's audio jack and then use these RCA male to 1/4" TS male cables to connect to the speakers.
I've set up numerous jenky make-it-work turntable-to-soundcard lines to sample so I'll try to give you a few options...
(1) Any decent turntable without a built in preamp (look at beginner turntable guide) and this could be new or used --> into a preamp (this is necessary for this setup) --> run RCA-to-1/4 lines into the back of the Apollo Twin (line 1 and line 2), this will keep your left and right channels separately. You need to make sure you can record into both at the same time. You could buy adaptors for your RCA line or a specific RCA-to-1/4 cable. Note: I'm giving you links to cheap ones.
(2) Buy a turntable with a built in preamp and do the same set up without a dedicated preamp. So, it would go turntable with preamp on running RCA-to-1/4 cable straight into back of your soundcard. Best options for a new one would be the Audiotechnica LP120 which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. I personally think the stanton is slightly better on its stats but not by much and the stanton doesn't come with a hardcover, which kind of sucks. However, the stock cartridge on the stanton (Stanton V500) is a DJ cartridge that can take more damage and you can stop it, start it, and back cue and not worry about damaging the stylus or your records. The stock cart of the LP120 (AT95E) is a much better listening cart but you cannot back cue anything or start or stop on the fly without damaging the stylus.
(3) Buy a turntable with a USB connection and plug in straight into your computer or the USB port on your soundcard (Edit: just realized not all of the Apollo Twin versions have USB inputs, so this might not be feasible, unless you plug straight into your computer). You could pick up Audiotechnica LP120USB which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. USB port on turntables do not give the best sound quality however and you would probably better to go with one of the other options.
Overall, I think option 1 would be the cheapest route and be a good option if you eventually getting into vinyl as a medium for listening. Also, these three options are specially tailored to your setup and there are other ways to do this. The best quality for vinyl to digital is to have a nice soundcard on a desktop that has dedicated RCA inputs and then you don't have to use adaptors.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522242911&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+to+1%2F4
The JBL LSR305 expects line level inputs via balanced XLR or 1/4" TRS connector.
The SVS SB12-NSD expects line level inputs via stereo RCA connectors, and can pass through line-level and high-pass outputs via stereo RCA connectors.
The AT-LP60 has phono and line outs through stereo RCA connectors.
Your laptop probably has a 1/8" stereo TRS connector.
Working backwards from your JBL, you can use a stereo 1/4" TS to RCA cable to connect the speakers to the line or low-pass RCA outputs on the SVS. Check your JBL manual to ensure that a 1/4" TS cable will not cause issues in its TRS jack. An alternative is to use an RCA to TRS cable.
In order to switch your signal source between your computer and your turntable, you'll need an RCA source selector. You can also use stereo receiver or pre-amplifier with source selection.
In order to get your computer's audio output from its line out to the splitter or receiver, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA splitter cable. That cable will also work for a Coaxial SPDIF digital signal if you go with a receiver, and both the receiver and computer support Coaxial SPDIF. Your computer and the receiver may also support a SPDIF over TOSLINK, for which you'll need a TOSLINK cable. Note that TOSLINK cables and jacks come in two physically incompatible connectors.
The turntable can plug directly into the source selector.
The above Amazon links are to examples of cables and devices you could use with the relevant connectors. You could spend a lot more or less on each cable or device with different brands, colors, etc.
This is more of what you should get.
If you don't like extra wires, you could get this instead.
I use a HDMI to DVI to connect my PS3 to my computer monitor. No lag whatsoever.
If your monitor has speakers, than just use a HDMI cable to transfer both audio and video.
If not you need to get the audio another way.
I use this.
You use the HDMI cable for the video and this for the audio. You plug the standard red and white audio cables into this and either headphones or speakers into the other end.
Works like a charm.
Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_tONoxbSV404SF
Yes, just like Logitech’s
But use a 3.5mm to rca cable
They may come with a cable?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0
Here ya go
TRS cable out of your headphone jack -> split to two TS cables -> inputs of the 4 track cassette recorder
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
An optical audio to analog converter box (http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETDTAP-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B005DIRI6I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1413822076&sr=1-1&keywords=optical+to+analog+converter) . I use one and it works fine, the only thing is the converter has a L and R output so unless your speakers each have their own input, you'll need an Audio Splitter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I23TTE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004Z5CP&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0J626PGQ0VAXYV955QC0
use the deafult old school playstation out. take those red and white RCA cabes and run them into an Adapter don't worry about the yellow video one, just leave it out.
then plug your computer speakers into that adapter.
in Audio Settings you can chose to make the audio come out of the RCA connection and the video through hdmi.
I did this when I only had a computer monitor, works great. also allows for headphones.
Here's Exactly what you are looking for. LINK
there are more inexpensive options, but this one is highly rated and comes with the optical cable
And then one of these to convert the Output (RCA) to 3.5mm
LINK
I'm going to be honest with you. By the time you buy this you would probably be better off buying an inexpensive surround souind with an optical input. Sony also makes wireless headphones that are compatible with the PS3 and PS4
I have this one and they work and sound awesome
Elite Version
Any real stereo reciever has red/white inputs.
I assume you have computer speakers.
RiteAV - 3.5mm Male to RCA Stereo Female Adapter Cable (Y-Cable) - 6 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6FLvxb6FDPJMT
Get this, attach it to the ps2 video out and the other side to your computer speaker's aux in.
Get the JDS Labs Atom instead of the Magni. I had a Magni 2 Uber and I prefer the Atom (as long as you don't mind the plastic build).
Modi 3 is fine though. They connect with a pair of RCA cables like these.
I'm looking at the specs of your TV, and it DOES have an audio output.
Just use the headphones output! If your Home Theater has an analog input, you can just buy a cheap adapter and connect from your TV's 3.5mm output to your sound system's RCA input.
You'll just need an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
A2DP is the name for steaming stereo Bluetooth audio. Android is setup as a sender of audio, not a receiver.
Your best bet would be to buy an A2DP receiver (like $50) and hook that up to your speaker system. They'll probably come with a 3.5mm jack but you can change that to RCA audio (the red/white plugs) with an adapter. You'll also want to get one that uses a power cord (usually usb) instead of batteries. I had a setup like this in my car, it worked great, like magic.
For instance:
A2PD Receiver (This is what I used, don't worry about the branding =P)
Mini USB power cord
3.5mm to RCA Audio Adapter (If you need it)
Total is ~$50
You may want to specify what kind of connector the input of your sound system uses. Otherwise, how about something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-Way-Switch-Selector-Splitter-XBOX360/dp/B004T8KZCM/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1410823053&sr=8-16&keywords=3.5mm+switch
and then some of these to convert between 3.5mm jacks and composite:
http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Cable-Cord/dp/B0042DIZTE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1410823147&sr=8-4&keywords=composite+3.5mm
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410823147&sr=8-1&keywords=composite+3.5mm
Headphones. plug these into the back of your tv, then you can plug in your headphones.
Hmm let me try later at home. I bought a Turtle Beach wireless headset recently. It's meant for PS3 and X360 but I've been only using it on my PC.
EDIT:
Just looked through the manual and Google. Yup, the PS3 cannot transmit game audio via bluetooth. My wireless headset has a unit that plugs into the PS3 via optical cable and then transmit it over the 5Ghz range.
There's also a simple male-to-female Y-converter if you don't want a female-to-female converter.
like this?
Search for '3.5mm to RCA' for more options.
Edit: Changed the link to the female version of the adapter.
That sounds like a great setup to me. The DDJ-SB is fast becoming one of the main recommendations for those looking to go the Serato/Pioneer route and Sennheiser makes fantastic headphones with their iconic HD-25s being essentially an industry standard... While I've never used the HD6s I've seen good reviews and that blue is mighty sexy... :D
While computer speakers aren't the best for DJing they're better than nothing for practice at home. You'll need an adapter to go from the RCA master out on the DDJ-SB to the 1/8" TRS connector of the speakers though... This: http://www.amazon.ca/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE
(You will of course also need a laptop or computer.)
You would probably want something like this RCA to headphone adapter then you can use any headphones you like.
I have a crappy pair of Behringer headphones I got with a practice amp kit I had bought early on in my guitar learnings, but here's some Sennheisers that look pretty nice.
Works with anything that has RCA audio out.
if you're trying to connect a 3.5mm jack to RCA you can use an adapter: https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE
Yep Schhiit dac and amp are fantastic and the HE400 is as well. Can't go wrong with that combo!Schitt ModiHifiman HE-400
Getting into magnetic planar speakers will get you into a whole other class of audio.
Magnetic planar speakers love power so a Magni wouldn't be bad either but that's over the $500 mark but it's not really required. Also the modi have rca outputs so you'll need something like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTEEDIT:Skip the modi and just get a Fiio E10 Sorry screwed up on the dac deal but the HE-400 is still worthy by and the Fiio E10 will perform as a good dac and amp.
I agree with pagonda, I'd return them.
The old-fashioned idea is for you to employ a 2 x RCA Male / 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, so you can take your stereo sound and plug some headphones into it. It seems like your TV doesn't have any proper audio out for it, so you'll have to use ones straight from the PS3.
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE
Yeah you would need two mono rca splits. You'd just split both the red and the white at the controller, now you have 2 stereo outputs, and connect to the speakers as usual.
Edit: or just get one of these joints ... https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE
Same thing as a split but with a longer cable already attached.
Upgrading the Modi wouldn't, but upgrading the Magni would - the Magni 2 Uber has a pre-amp output.
Essentially this just passes the input from your Modi through the Magni's volume control without amplifying it, when there's no headphones connected. With headphones connected of course, the input is amplified and sent to them. Again, the pre-out is RCA so the same cables as above if you chose that. Bear in mind this only works with either speakers or headphones at once, if you want to output to both at once you'd want a simple RCA splitter.
Again, neither is necessary since the Windows volume control is an option, but it's much easier.
RE speaker stands: Mostly comes down to preference and their looks. These are inexpensive and should fit / be strong enough for the LSR308.
Component order should look like this:
Computer -> Modi -> Sys -> Speakers OR Magni
Optional Second Source ^
If you're regularly swapping between the two, you could connect both at once using a splitter or switch box. Otherwise, those cables look good.
Totally possible. Pick up a couple of RCA splitters, or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/
One of this would do:
If you want an external interface the 2i2 is a nice one and as you say it has two outputs. There are also some cheaper but decent quality interfaces. Tascam is a good brand to look for as well.
You need to hook up the line-out from the receiver to line-input on the back of the sub. Probably with a cheap RCA to stereo cable like this.
You'll need something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY
And put it in the 3.5mm port next to the Green input
Sound needs to go into the pc audio input. This should do it.
https://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494130704&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+rca+female
It won't. It's 3.5mm in size, but it's still an optical signal. You'll need a Digital to audio converter. Something like this. Then a cable like this one and you are good to go.
Or if you want to make your life easier. Get this cable and use the ps3 av cables.
I have this setup, i.e. I'm using a monitor with only DVI input and outputting audio through my PC speakers. Here's what I do.
I use an HDMI cable with an HDMI-to-DVI adapter for video.
For audio, well, it's a bit more complicated. I use the Xbox's composite cable for audio, but first, you'll need this adapter. Now that gives us a standard 3.5 mm cable.
If you just want to use standalone speakers (or headphones), buy this adapter and plug your speakers/headphones into it.
If your speakers, like mine, are hooked up to your PC, plug the cable from the RCA adapter (first one I mentioned) into the line in, then have Windows "listen to this device" -- it's in the Sound control panel.
The trickiest part is getting both the HDMI and composite cables plugged into your Xbox, as the composite cable has a stupid ass tab to it that prevents both it and the HDMI cable from being plugged in. I had to resort to ripping the plastic casing off of the composite cable, which is probably your best bet.
Let me know if you have any questions.
I think these are what your looking for
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Connectland-CL-ADA31002-Female-Adapter/dp/B002R0DZXU
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1322863773&sr=8-2
No worries! Just plug the yellow into the one that leads to the monitor, and then the white/red into the speaker one(even though the monitor one has white/red, just ignore it).
PS I messed up. Instead of the second one, get this: http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322875068&sr=1-7
Yep. You need this. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
Use headphone out on the back of your PC into the AUX port on the receiver. Start with the PC volume low and the receiver volume low.
Speaker wire and self adjusting wire strippers or basic.
Mediabridge 3.5mm Male to 2-Male RCA Adapter (6 Feet) or Monoprice 6ft Premium 3.5mm Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable Gold or 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 4 Feet
Make sure your desk has enough space for for the deep S15s.
Also check out the Dayton options. Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT with 2 aux and bluetooth inputs or Dayton Audio DTA-120BT with headphone out and bluetooth. Or a bit more for one with a USB DAC Micca OriGain $100. Or the SMSLs with USB DAC and remote SMSL AD13, SMSL Q5 PRO.
PC: Green Audio Out 3.5mm Port -> Surround System: Audio In
You'll need the right cable for it though. Example
However, that might only be standard audio.
(I never messed with out style audio, I just use ToSLink for my audio.)
Considering these are desktop devices, your iPhone won't be able to connect to the DAC, only to the AMP. The Modi 3 comes with a micro usb cable you can plug into your laptop.
Connecting the DAC to AMP
Connecting iPhone to AMP (headphone jack)
Those are RCA sockets at the bottom. Does your TV have similar RCA inputs for video and audio? If so you can use a cable like this to connect the two. Just plug the white plug into the video out and red into audio out on the VHS at one end, and at the other end, white into video and red into audio in on the TV.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=2+rca+to+2+rca+cable&qid=1566621877&s=gateway&sr=8-3
If your tv only has HDMI you can get a RCA to HDMI like this.
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-Composite-Adapter-3-RCA/dp/B07VRDQXNS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=2+rca+to+hdmi+cable&qid=1566622021&s=gateway&sprefix=2+rca+to+hdmi+cable&sr=8-3
And a RCA splitter like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hosyl-Splitter-Adapter-Female-Convert/dp/B01EHJ7AUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=2+rca+to+1+rca&qid=1566622256&s=gateway&sprefix=2+rca+&sr=8-7
Your VHS only has single channel audio, so you need to plug the red and white plugs into the splitter, then the splitter into audio out. Then plug the yellow into video out and the HDMI into your tv.
The black and white cables are meant to go to the speakers as an output, so plugging them into your controller is doing the opposite of what you want. You need to get an RCA to RCA cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aIOFzbWX49250) to connect the controller to the input of your subwoofer. The top 2 ports seem to be the inputs from the controller while the bottom 2 are the outputs to the speakers.
Yup. I run mine with a Marshall Stanmore and no receiver, works great. As long as your speaker is wired or has RCA ports and is powered, you'll be fine.
If you go the RCA route like I did, I recommend upgrading your cables. The ones that come with the RT81 kind of suck. I just got Amazon Basics ones and they're much better.
Amazon link
First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.
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If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.
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If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).
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If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.
Connect a cable like the following (3.5 mm to RCA) from your motherboard's line out to the Magni 2:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0
Max out the volume in Windows, and then use the Magni 2's knob to adjust the volume up and down, going forward.
It's easy: get a cassette deck if you don't already have one, then a stereo cable with a 3.5MM plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other, like this. Connect your phone to the input jacks on the deck, play your music (Spotify, etc.) at about 80% volume, and set the record level on the deck so the peaks are at 0db and make a test recording. If it sounds OK to you on playback (no obvious distortion) then you're good: make those playlists and start cranking out tapes.
If your files are on a PC/laptop (rather than a phone) and you don't want to transfer them the process is still the same-- just plug that 3.5mm plug into your headphone jack on the computer.
And output is exactly that. It outputs sound. Your Chromecast needs an INPUT because it is sending sound IN to your receiver. You need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter cable. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=twister_B01MDKJXCH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can pick on up at radioshack or wal mart.
Then you plug the 3.5mm end into your Chromecast and the RCA ends into your CD or DVD inputs that show in your folder.
Correct.
This is all you need for speaker wire for those speakers if you are not running them more than 25 ft from the amp. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_4
RCA cables do not have to be expensive. These cables will work fine https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/
If you have the room for it, the best deal on amplification is often to look for a used audio video receiver on your local Craigslist. People tend to upgrade AVRs that are ~ 10 years old in order to buy the latest models that support Dolby Atmos ceiling speakers. If your video card has an extra HDMI out, you can also run audio to an AVR using that instead of RCA cables.
Or did you have a separate budget for the amplifier?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H8JW0/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521569641&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&dpPl=1&dpID=51FIuNodkWL&ref=plSrch
I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.
3.5mm to RCA cable
Small Amplifier I've used before
So here's the deal. The TCL outputs audio externally via two methods. Either Optical digital audio out (toslink), or a headphone port. SO that leaves you utilizing one of those two ports.
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In the future you'd be better served posting in r/soundbars . We really should get THAT subreddit going, and stop polluting r/hometheater with simplistic questions like this :)
Good luck!
Yes, this can easily be done.
You'll just connect your D30 and Atom like a normal DAC/Amp setup, and connect the RCA outs on the back of the Atom to the AUX input on the AD18. The Atom will automatically act as a pre-out once you unplug your headphones and route the input from your DAC through to the AD18, and you can use the volume wheel of the Atom to control the volume of your speakers as well.
So all you'll need to buy in addition to that is a dual-RCA to 3.5mm TRS cable (like this one)
You can get a 3.5m to dual rca male cable or 3.5mm to rca socket for easier splitting but need a rca male to male. Keep in mind to set your realtek driver to max power (differs for different drivers/software). Also a good motherboard is recommended like the modern alc1220 or even alc892-897). Ideally a high snr board (some low end boards are good like the msi tomahawk[except b450 ughh dont know why msi dumdbed it down:(] or mortar with high output for the codec they implemented by implementing good amps). You also need speaker wire or 2 premade speaker cable for sturdier and easier connection process
Since the audio inputs on the Magni are RCAs and the line outs on the Focusrite 1/4 inch, you'll need a dual quarter inch to dual RCA interconnect, like this one.
Your setup will be like this:
PC --(usb)-->2i2--(1/4″-to-RCA)-->Magni 2-->HD 600
(and rule #3)
Depending on the inputs on the amp, you can use either:
1/4" TRS to Stereo RCA cable
Dual 1/4" TRS to RCA cable
Balanced inputs accept unbalanced signals, and you shouldn't notice any difference. The benefit of balanced signals and appropriate cables allows less interference over long distances. Much longer than you will probably be using. Studio/home and even small event usage is totally fine.
My personal setup on my production desk includes using a Traktor Audio 6 soundcard as an output (unbalanced) to my monitors' balanced XLR inputs using RCA -> XLR cables. I have no issues
You need an amp to run between passive (non self-powered) speakers and the output source (controller). You didn't specify the speakers, but I would imagine they are passive since they have 1/4" TS connections... usually active speakers (self powered) have XLR inputs and sometimes additionally, have RCA and a mic input.
If, somehow, your speakers are active you'll just need this cord or this adapter, but I really would expect you need an amp. Having no idea what speakers you have, but knowing the next question will probably be what amp should you get, I'll just go ahead and put this here: Behringer Inuke. This is a budget amp, but it does a fairly good job. I have one running some subs and have zero complaints. If you end up needing more power, just look for the bigger versions.
I'm glad this question came up! I just found out about the perfect piece of kit that solves your problem and ones that you didn't even ask about.
First, in order to connect from any phono preamp's RCA connection the 1/4" input of your monitors you will need a mono-RCA-to-mono-1/4" cable. Like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16
Now you will need a phono preamp. Normally I recommend the ART DJ Pre II. It's a very good, affordable phono preamp that offers great performance, especially for its price bracket. It's the preamp I currently use. Before I settled on the DJ Pre II, I tested a number of phono pre's, including the Behringer you linked to and another popular budget pre, the TCC TC-750.
The difference between the Behringer and the other two was apparent and immediately noticeable. The Berhringer was more veiled and less dynamic than the other two. When comparing the ART and the TCC models, I thought the DJ Pre II was more neutral and a bit clearer than the TC-750. But is wasn't the very obvious difference between it and the Behringer. It was more degrees of subtlety.
So why don't i think you should get the DJ Pre II? Convenience. TCC makes another phono preamp model, the TCC TC-754. Not only is it a phono preamp, but it also includes a volume attenuator (control) and four-input audio switcher. Why are these important? The volume control for your monitors is on the back of the unit. With the TC-754 you can use the volume control on the unit to adjust it with ease. And the input selector will allow you to not only hook your turntable up, but also MP3, CD, computer or what have you and switch between them. Otherwise you would need to remove the RCA from the standalone phono preamp every time you wanted to use a different source.
While I personally haven't used it, I have used the TC-750 which its phono pre is based on. I think it would be a very good solution for hooking a turntable to your monitors.
http://www.amazon.com/TC-754-BLACK-Phono-Preamplifier-Switchable/dp/B000ZZINTK/
This will work.
Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UurSCbMWAW3S3
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/
Use this cable from the "output" of your Valhalla. Red for right, black for left.
You'll want to connect the LSR-305 to the PB-1000 using RCA-1/4" like this. Then connect your PC to you PB-1000 using a 1/8"-RCA like this.
The PB-1000 have a fixed 80Hz high-pass on the RCA output so it's important that you use them to get the most out of your LSR-305.
You'd need these. And to set the JBL's input sensitivity to -10 for unbalanced inputs.
I have a Scarlett 2i2 and have done this very thing. Here’s what you need:
or something that ends in 2 TS male plugs. Whether you’re coming from 3.5mm or phono you can find a cable for it:
One you’ve got the cable/adapter you need, plug one into each input on your Scarlett and match their volumes. Set each input to “line”. Make sure your direct monitor setting is “stereo”.
Set the inputs middle to low and bring the source up until it’s at a comfortable spot.
Should be good to go!
Best way to do this is use your Magni 2 uber as a preamp. So connect RCA to TRS cables (or RCA cables with TRS adapter) from the Magni 2 preamp outs, to your JBL LSR305's
RCA to TRS example: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17
TRS adapter if you already have RCA to RCA cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-GPR101-Inch-Adaptor/dp/B000068O3S
I used those adapters for my JBL LSR305's because I already had an RCA cable laying around. You'll be able to control volume with your magni 2 volume knob
Edit: spelling
At minimum you'd need a way to control volume and an RCA to 1/4" cable.
Would having two sets of these be the right solution? Nord -> KP3 -> monitors
The Cloudlifter would be a complete waste of money here and many people use them where they aren't needed.
The bad news here is that Behringer's classic mixers are just plain garbage. End of story. Good for seeing how high it will bounce when being thrown off the roof of a building though.
I would go so far as to say you shouldn't even look at mixers at all unless you're playing an instrument like a guitar in addition to using the mic. You mix where your sources are, so on a gaming PC you need to mix in software on the PC, not in some external box that you need to setup loopback on. The type of software mixer you're looking for is Voicemeeter.
Behringer's "HD" audio interfaces, however, are pretty decent on the cheap. I just wouldn't touch anything less than the $60 UMC202HD though.
At the end of the day, a 2-input/2-output USB audio interface like the Behringer UMC202HD is all you need. I wouldn't bother with an external hardware mixer at all. It's just not needed. If you want to spend a bit more on a nicer interface, Tascam, Roland, and Zoom are worth looking at. Just don't buy Focusrite Scarlett as their Windows 10 drivers are straight-up broken and won't be fixed any time soon.
Get a decent mic arm like the On Stage MBS5000, plug one end of the XLR cable into the SM58, then the other end into your audio interface, e.g. UMC202HD. Plug your speakers and headphone into the interface. Done. That's all you need. You don't even need a foam ball as a vocal dynamic like that SM58 has a built-in pop filter foam behind it's screw-on head. You can stop using your motherboard's onboard audio entirely too. Maybe do an isolation mic clip if you're feeling fancy.
Remember you need a mic arm as putting your mic on the desk is too far away from your mouth and the mic will pick up more keyboard, mouse, and room noise than it will of your voice.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWM5E8C
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZO60I
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE
Some adapters you might need, maybe, depending on how your PC speakers are setup:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010D0HO0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O18
Yes, using adapters like this or this you can connect them to unbalanced sources using 3.5mm TRS or RCA respectively.
TS (6.5mm, 1/4") to RCA, and here
You need this cable or RCA-RCA cable and this adapters. Scarlett input attenuation at line level.
The LSR305s need a balanced mono input on the TRS jack. You have a stereo TRS to dual mono breakout cable. You need something like this.
Are you referring to using composite/RCA cables to connect the ps2 wiki link? If I recall correctly, my ps2 had the option of using either composite video or component video wiki link.
In either case, the audio portion was always carried through the red and white cables as an analog signal. This means it's the raw waveform, no special protocol. If you have a receiver that accepts this cable, you're good to go. Otherwise, if you have a pair of computer speakers, you could use an adapter as follows to hook them together amazon link.
Admittedly, this is not my field, and I'm solely speaking as a consumer who's messed around with this stuff.
Hey, so I looked into it a bit more to try to remember how I had everything set up when I was using my monitor. All the digital video converters I am seeing online are more expensive than I remember them being.
Anyway, this is the one that I got. Of course vga only puts out the video, so you need something else to get your sound going. For the sound part, I used something like this. One side accepts the SNES red/white cables and the other I plugged my computer speakers into whenever I played my SNES.
You may be able to find video converters cheaper than the one I linked but I didn't look very much this time around to see. Let me know if you have any luck.
3.5mm Jack to 2-RCA Jacks Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JFF7A/
You need something like this and you would connect your consoles audio cables right to the speakers
You'll need something like this which will let you plug in headphones via the PS3's RCA cables. I'd also recommend getting a headphone amplifier too as the volume levels were a bit low IMO.
this
or
this
I'd also recommend the MDR-V6 if you can find it on sale.
Those are good choices for $50. Unfortunately you cannot plug headphones into the xbox 360 cotroller, only the xbox one. The cheapest way to connect them is to use this. You will have to plug in the audio cables to this connector and then plug your headphones into the other end.
This wont work if your friend only has an hdmi cable, there is another way to connect them but you will have to spend another $50 for an adapter. Still I bet your friend would appreciate a nice pair of headphones that they can use with all other devices.
You don't need the converter to handle your audio. If you're just connecting to speakers, convert the RCA plugs into the 3.5mm jack with a cheap, simple adapter cable. I can link you the specfic cable you need if you describe your audio setup more specifically.
If you're using headphones, you'll need a volume adjuster in addition to the cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00001P4XH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499697595&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=koss+volume+control&dpPl=1&dpID=31c6iYdpEDL&ref=plSrch
Usually speakers have the 3.5mm male jack hanging off. If that's the case for you, this is the cable you need: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009JFF7A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499697765&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=female+rca+to+female+3.5mm&dpPl=1&dpID=31snyb-OFLL&ref=plSrch
Speakers usually have some sort of headphone jack, use that if needed so you won't need the volume adjuster. That's only if you're plugging headphones directly into the console's plugs.
https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE
I've got nothing better to do so I'm going to put a lot of info here just incase anyone else comes across this thread with a similar problem. I'm assuming that you are switching back to a monitor which is why you're asking.
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Connecting PC speakers to TV (Kinda pointless just saying)
[For RCA Output] http://www.turtlebeach.com/product-detail/cables-parts/35mm-female-to-rca-stereo-splitter-cable/99
||OR||
[For 3.5MM output] http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B007ZIBURC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552003&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+female
----------------------------------------------------------------------
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[Connecting console to monitor with audio out on the same cable]
(HDMI to DVI with audio out) http://www.amazon.com/Converter-Audio-external-Needed-DA-HVNP/dp/B00BPX13D4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552345&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+with+audio
||OR The Long Way||
You can mix these two adapters to get audio out and still use an hdmi cable by itself.
Using this:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552883&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+cable
Connect it to this:
(S/PDIF [Optical Out] to RCA) http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-AGPtek-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B005DIRI6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552748&sr=8-1&keywords=spdif+to+rca
THEN connect the female rca from that small box to this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552852&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+female
Then connect your speaker's 3.5mm male cable to the female 3.5mm cable.
So the magni 3 has rca inputs.
So my set up is computer --> optical --> smsl 793 dac --> rca --> magni 3 --> headphones.
The smsl 793 is actually a dac/amp combo but I found it underwhelming with my 6XX, luckily it has a line out if you only want to use the dac portion. I've had it for years but they were only pushing 32 and 80 ohm headphones before and would really struggle to reach listening volume with 300ohms.
However a dac is not necessary. You could very easily take the 3.5mm jack into a split rca into the magni, then hook your headphones to that. You'd just need this cable between your pc and the amp.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
Many people recommend a dac simply because it can make an improvement in sound, will help avoid electrical interference since the signal is over USB or SPDIF (Coax & Optical), and can help if you have a noise floor issue (hiss) and jitter.
Most modern dacs in computers are fairly decent, and the the built in amps are not terrible for headphones up to 32-80 ohm range. But once you get into those high ohm, you have to get an amp.
I think you nailed it.... I'd bet that's a headphone output port on the stereo system... most stereos use L/R (red and white plugs) RCA jacks for audio input... try those stereo ports in the back with a 3.5mm to (L/R) RCA cable...
This cable
Edit: Easy test with zero monies spent... cut the stereos fm radio on and plug headphone in... if you get audio out of the headphones it's an output jack.
For cords/wires you will need a RCA to 3.5mm cable something like this to connect your amp to your pc. You will also need 3 speaker cables such as these 1 for your amp to sub and assuming your sub will have a high level input and output, you will connect the other 2 cables to the sub and out to the speakers.
You could also make your own speaker cables as well which is a little cheaper by using this
For sub wise, I would consider a Dayton audio sub 800 or 1000 as a start.
You really can't use that AMP-100 to power headphones but you do have the choice to run the headphones directly from the UCA202 DAC or pass the signal to any of the FiiO Headphone amplifiers with one of these cables.
You have a balanced XLR input and it's only playing the difference between the left and right channels. You're playing a track that has the instruments panned left and right, and the vocals relatively centered.
First, what you want is something more along the lines of this 1/8" to 1/4" breakout cable. If you have a free stereo channel, plug both 1/4" plugs into there, otherwise just plug it into two adjacent mono channels, pan them all the way left and right, and adjust them together.
Second, you should know that most mixers can supply 48V on their XLR inputs. Condenser microphones need that, dynamic mics don't care, but laptop audio ports can fry. 1/4" jacks are safe, though, so always prefer them above XLR for computer/phone/iPod type input.
It will be easy to find out. Plug your headphones into the female end. Plug one of the two male plugs into your keyboard and play something. If you only hear sound in one ear, you're good to go.
If you want to go dual 1/4" male into a single stereo male mini plug, you can buy that cable here.
Keep in mind that depending of the quality of your keyboard's internal grounding circuitry, you could get some hum and/or phase issues, but probably shouldn't have any problems.
Yamaha HS monitors have 1/4inch TRS and XLR inputs (no RCA as far as I know), so if you wanted to use them with a desktop without any/minimal extra hardware, you could get a 3.5mm to dual 1/4 inch cable (like this); 3.5mm goes into your computer's headphone jack, 1/4 inches go into the monitors.
Someone else can probably give better advice on whether or not to buy a DAC/interface. I use HS7s and I plug them into a Scarlett 2i2, which has 1/4 inch monitor outs. There's also a 1/4 inch headphone jack with separate volume knobs, so I can switch between monitors and headphones without much fuss. I'm pretty happy with that setup, but a 2i2 might be overkill just for that alone (I use it for recording from XLR mics as well, that's its main purpose).
If you're using a USB headset, you can keep them plugged in for both of the above approaches and switch audio devices via your OS when you need them.
Gotcha, so something like this then?
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Thanks for the quick reply!
I think there is a tech support sticky...but...my thought is that your 3.5mm to dual 3.5mm is splitting the stereo signal into two separate stereo signals (like for plugging in two sets of headphones for two people to listen at the same time). You want something that splits the stereo signal into separate left and right to go into your speakers, or just a cable like this.
You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.
You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.
Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs.Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?So to recap, you need to purchase:
Software, look at Karafun, it's likely to do what you need and has all the songsRandom question, I gather you're UK based, are you anywhere near London?
To send/receive MIDI you need MIDI to USB interface.
To receive audio signal you need dual 1/4 TS cable to 1/8” TRS cable.
Option1: Money is not an issue:
OP you’re best bet would be a audio interface as it allows you to connect your keyboard plus so much more.
Something like this:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Scarlet2i4G2--focusrite-scarlett-2i4-usb-audio-interface
And midi cables and TS cables
Option 2: Money is an issue/not ready to for a audio interface:
MIDI to USB built into MIDI cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719V8MX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UBGmDbDYWDC3D
1/4 TS to 1/8 TRS:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCGmDbF1750Q2
Do you have a headphone jack on your TV? If so you could get something like this and run it from that into the Aux on that speaker.
Then for power, it looks like a standard power connector which you could use something like this.
Obviously since it is a single speaker, you won't get any L/R separation.
http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/recording-broadcast/3-series/lsr305#.VtfW7pJriM0
Click the 2nd picture. It uses XLR or TRS (1/4" mono) connectors. You can use a 3.5mm to 2x 6.3mm mono (read: 1/4") Y splitter.
Translated: You need a cable that takes your 3.5mm stereo and makes it into two 1/4" mono.
(You should have a 3.5mm output from your motherboard's audio. But hopefully you'll buy a dedicated DAC if you want better audio.)
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MRSZFN3VTTRTHXTX1PW
That kind of cable. You can use 1/4" mono audio extension cables if you've got longer cable runs.
NOTE: Your link is for ONE JBL LSR305. You'll need two if you plan to run it in stereo. Just sayin'
You just need this - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1403569361&sr=1-1&keywords=hosa+3.5+stereo+to+dual+1%2F4
Connect it to both speakers and the jack goes to pc and configure your soundcard to output stereo instead of 5.1 (I am not sure about this part since ive never used 5.1)
Also your speakers will work in single ended mode which is ok if the cables are not too long.
Purchasing them individually will be fine. Each one should come with a power cable. Using them as a pair, each one will need to be plugged into power, and you'll need to connect each one to a signal. The speakers operate completely independently of each other. So to plug it into a normal 3.5mm source, a 3.5mm to 1/4" TS (mono) cable is what you want. XLR should only be used when your source is balanced, which a 3.5mm port from a computer motherboard or phone for instance is not. I used this exact cable with my BX5 D2s for a while until I got an audio interface and went XLR.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500337888&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4+ts
My bad, hosa.
Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_whYVzLuecrDTZ
My Christmas gifts have complicated my computer setup and I am wondering if a Schiit Uber stack is the answer.
I got myself a pair of JBL LSR305's and was gifted some Sennheiser 598's.
Currently using this cable to connect the LSR305's to my computer with no easy way to use the headphones or connect my ps3.
The way I picture it working is the computer connecting to the Schiit Modi 2 Uber via USB and the ps3 via optical, with the output running to the amp.
The amp is where my questions are. With the 305's connected to the Magni 2 Uber, will the volume knob control the speaker volume when no headphones are connected? Also, will the output automatically switch over to headphones when I plug them in to the Magni?
Those included cords will not cover all of your needs since the Scarlett Solo does not have TRS or XLR output. You could actually just plug this into your computer's headphone jack (if the DAC is good). What's the point of the Scarlet interface other than a volume control knob? It just seems like a lot to spend at your budget if that's its main use.
I'd recommend to stick to reputable brands -
You need one of these cables.
I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.
A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.
I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.
Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!
Yup.
these are my favorite for hand held PO noodling since they keep the cable neat cooked up like that. Takes up less room than a straight 3’ cable would.
And these guys are great for a nice solid desktop setup.
Depending on how you record or mix the output, you may want to pickup a 3.5mm to 1/4” breakout cable to deal with any stereo/balancing issues you might encounter.
Those loudspeaker jacks on the left side are for attaching another cabinet (speakers without an amp) to your amp. That "internal off" switch means you can drive a separate cabinet (treating your amp as a head) or you can run both the speakers in the combo and external speakers.
Which adapter are you using from your computer currently? The normal input jack on an amp (usually) takes a 1/4" TS (mono) cable in, so your adapter might be a 3.5mm TRS (stereo) male -> 1/4" TRS female cable.
What you really want is the stereo signal from your computer's mini jack to be split into two 1/4" male jacks.
If you have the adapter as I described above, you can use the cable you listed to go into the aux in on the amp. That's what I would do. Alternatively, if you have a different adapter (like 3.5" male-> 1/4" male, which wouldn't plug into the one you listed), you could use this cable instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520265704&sr=1-4&keywords=TRS+to+TS
Keep in mind that your amp cabinet has two 12" speakers and there's no tweeter to handle high frequencies. You're going to get a low-range response and the drums (particularly the hi-hat) are going to sound muffled no matter what.
Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!
This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!
So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.
I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!
Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!
Here's is my shopping list for party chat:
Mixer
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy
Xbox Chat Thing:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6
Cable from Buddy to Mixer:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables
Cable from Mixer to Buddy!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch
Xbox Mixer(s)
Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp
Earforce DSS (an option!)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1
Ground Loop things:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7
Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator
Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!
Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ
Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849
Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799
dM
I have the JX-8P and Juno106, which were pretty similar to the JX-3p and the stereo out is for their chorus effect (slight movement between the channels). In the originals, if you didn't want stereo, you could just plug in a 1/4" into the left and it would work just fine, chorus and all, then you can plug into whatever guitar pedals. I guess you could do the same by getting a Stereo Breakout, 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 in TS.
If you don't mind swapping the 3.5mm plug to whatever device you are using something like this will work
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
If your phone has a regular headphone jack, all you need is this type of cable. Rip the red and black 1/4 plugs apart as much as you need, plug the red into the right speaker and the black into the left, and the other end into your phone.
Right...http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1376223966&sr=8-8&keywords=1%2F4+to+1%2F8
Male 1/8" TRS (mini jack) to Dual Male 1/4" TRS cable. Like this one.
If you wanted to go a higher fidelity route than this one, I would use a DAC (digital to analog converter) like the Nuforce uDAC with a USB cable from the computer to the DAC and single RCA cables going from the DAC to each speaker.
PC --> 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4" phono plugs --> into the sub ==> dual 1/4" to 1/4" cables out of the sub to the mains. The crossover is in the sub.
You don't need a usb interface.
That sub (despite the graphic on the back) will accept (and output) an unbalanced signal using TS plugs, it doesn't have to be TRS or a balanced signal.
Also keep an eye on Monoprice's promo code sales - for Memorial Day they had a code for $10 off $100+, $25 off $250+, $50 off $500+ - they'll prob do the same, if not more, for July 4th.
You could probably find the cables at Monoprice too
Your mixer is most likely a mono input. When I had my volcas, I used this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6
You just need one of the 1/4" end into your mixer.
This is a really small rca switch box. This and a single 3.5mm to rca converter could work for you.
it looks like the GSX1000 has a "speaker out" which I believe is a line out based on spec sheet: https://en-us.sennheiser.com/global-downloads/file/8226/GSX_1000_-_Fact_sheet.pdf
So you should use that to line out to the magni 3 via a 3.5mm to RCA cable (like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0094A1F3S/). That way you won't be double amping.
By the way, you could use the E10k as a DAC alone, and output to a more powerful amp, like the Magni 2. Might save some cash.
Use a 3.5mm plug in the line out, on the back of the E10k and you'll need RCA plugs on the other end of the cable. Like this Monoprice cable.
>Wharfedale modus cube series 2
apparently 75watts RMS @ 6ohm. so your amp will need to handle 6ohm loads.
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Professional-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ/
and
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/
would get you there. using the headphone output from the back of the TV.
or, as others have said, you can get a used amp for cheap at places like goodwill.
I see in the comments below that you've already returned it, if you are willing to use a mixer the setup I would recommend to start would be:
Behringer Xm8500
Windscreen
XLR Cable
Behringer Xenyx 502
RCA to 3.5mm
All this is less than $80.
A stand like this would work well, and it is still below $100.
Here is a sound sample I found on YouTube.
Once you have more money to play around with for dynamic microphones look into: Shure SM58, Shure Beta 58, and the EV ND767A. These will run you roughly $100-$150.
Once you have a use case for condenser microphones look into: AT2020, Samson C02 Pair, and MXL 770. All of these will run you roughly $100, however if you went with the Samson C02s you would need more inputs and therefore a different mixer.
http://amzn.com/B005HGM1D6
I am going to get one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BMLXAU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2FXGOPTIVRONJ&coliid=IPD58MORXUAJX
Since my speaker Amp and headphone amp are going to share a DAC.
You just plug it in-reverse, its a passive mechanical switch.
If you're paranoid you can just get this instead https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-Audio-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
Yep, just a simple switch. There's tons that are super cheap but are questionable quality. Probably the cheapest one that's recommended by audio people is the Sescom one.
https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-SES-AUDIO-AB-Stereo-Audio-Switch/dp/B008BMLXAU
You can install this before the Magni 3 (to get the pre-amp ability even for your Soundblaster Z) or after the Magni 3 to ensure the Magni gets a direct signal from the Modi. But reality any switch will work that fits your workspace as extra inputs for your speakers maybe beneficial.
Sescom SES-AUDIO-AB. It's not cheap but I like that it's a passive switch so I shouldn't lose any gain or cause any signal degradation from the DAC into either amp.
This switch is a bit cheaper than the Sys if you want to go that route.
What a great boombox for audio in/out options! I take it your laptop has a mic/line-in port? If so, my recommendation is to first get yourself two 1/8" stereo-to-dual RCA cables (like these, brand not important).
Rinse and repeat! Hope that helps, I’m happy to clarify more if needed.
The cheapest I would go would be this Dayton bundle. If you can spend an extra $15 or so and make this same combo with the Dayton B652 Air speakers instead, that would be even better. Otherwise, you could also get the Dayton B452 Speakers with that same amp as the cheapest solution, but that 4-1/2" driver isn't going to deliver the lows like the 6-1/2" will, so really splurge for the larger size if you can. You likely also need a this cord if your TV has analog audio out. If it has Optical audio out, you will need this cable instead.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
I assume you're trying to use the surround sound to play audio from your PC?
I've got some good news and bad news. The bad news is that you cannot get surround sound from your PC to your DVD player system. This is because the DVD player system only has stereo auxiliary inputs.
The good news is you can get stereo audio from your PC to your DVD player system. All you need is a male 3.5mm to male RCA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ longer ones are available if 3ft isn't enough. That'll plug into your green audio port on your motherboard. Be sure to set your PC output to stereo.
This stereo limitation is because of your DVD player stereo being a cheaper model and not a proper surround receiver setup. It's only designed to give surround sound from DVDs it plays.
There are two good ways to do this:
Option 1:
Grab yourself a set of these. https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/
Plug the double sided end into your source, and then feed the other end to your speakers. You'll then plug another set of RCA into the open ends on the source and send them to your Sub.
Option 2: If you don't like using the windows volume control, then you'll get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/
Also this: https://www.amazon.com/Link-BM105-Male-Barrel-Connectors/dp/B001NCDBEQ
The Barrel connectors will go into your source. Then plus the controller into the barrel connectors, then the piggyback cable into the other end of the controller. Then plug your RCA into backside of the Piggyback and put one set into the speakers, and one set into the sub.
Once you've chosen from the two options, you'll need to set up the speaker and the sub so the volume matches.
To do that I would turn the computer audio up to maximum. Then, turn your speakers up as loud as you would ever comfortably listen to them. Then get your subwoofer gain and crossover where you want it. You will then use your PC volume/or the control nob to control the volume of both of them. If you use the control nob, your PC volume will always be at max.
EDIT: You might also need this to get the sound from your motherboard audio out to RCA: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/
Keep it simple. Get a headphone to rca cable. The speakers will be an improvement over the built in speakers but it's not worth the expense of try to convert digital to analog. This is what you need; https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472918070&sr=8-1&keywords=Headphone+to+rca+cable
Exactly. A proper stereo is the solution here. Use a decent amp and speakers for the audio and pair it with an Echo Dot to control it, using the line out jack on the Dot to connect it to the amp.
If /u/Treas0n is looking for a good budget option, I'd highly recommend the Lepai amp + Dayton speaker setup. This setup is the go-to budget kit on /r/audiophile and would be plenty loud with really good sound quality. It's about $90 for the whole kit (+$30-$50 for an Echo Dot):
Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supplyhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/(don't go for this one anymore, grab a tripath version)Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition ORIGINAL Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT
Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOA58RS/
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/
Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/
If the OP wants even bigger sound then add a powered sub for $100 more (you may want to double up on your 16ga speaker wire for connecting the subwoofer between the stereo speakers and the amp)
Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IEFWBbD0GFQVW
WAIT Your speaker cable is wrong! I'll find you one then edit in a sec
This is what you need
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y
Make sure 50 feets is long enough, they do 100 as well
The 3.5 mm to RCA is fine, theres a cheaper one here http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S
I had another look at the picture of the speakers, they have the type that unscrews so you don't need banana plugs.
You'll want to split about 5cm of that speaker cable apart from both ends, strip ~2cm of insulation off, unscrew the plastic plastic bits off the back of the speakers, feed the exposed copper into the little holes then screw them up tightly. You then have to trace the wire to the other end and connect them to the amp, connect the 3.5mm cable from your source (pc, phone w/e) to the RCA input on the amp, power it up and you're all set
Honestly, for the interconnects, just shop mononprice, or amazonbasics and other similar brands, unless you really want them to be neat. Don't overpay on cables unless you just have cash to burn or want a certain aesthetic.
https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1555461246&s=gateway&sr=8-8
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1555461246&s=gateway&sr=8-3
The less stuff in the chain the better; I wouldn't run my headphones through the receiver unless I wanted the receiver itself to be my amp. Some people do that but receivers usually have a high output impedance. Not bad if you're powering something more power hungry, but IEMs and lower impedance headphoness (ex: Philips Fidelio X2) will have issues.
You'd want the magni 3 or magni 2 uber. You'd have the speakers connected to the receiver, and the pre-amp output from the magni going to the receiver. From the fulla, you'd want the line out to go to the magni. Bit confusing but you should be able to figure it out.
So you have a complete, working Panasonic SC-PM29, right?
In that case, leave it intact (Panasonic speakers plugged into Panasonic electronics unit). Then, as you can see in the second photo, the back panel has an input labeled "AUX" (one red and one white connector). You want to get a 3.5mm phono to dual-RCA cable like this or this and use that connect the AUX port to the computer. Then turn the stereo on, select the AUX input, and you should be good to go.
Example : https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A
They connector via a RCA to Audio Cable like this
You wire the speakers to the amp and use the RCA to Audio cable to plug it into your computer.
You could manage in $1000 if you buy used and have a little patience. I would say go for floorstanders (like this one) + stereo receivers if you have the space. Otherwise, there are also excellent bookshelves like Mission 731i or Wharfedale Diamonds that will not make a huge dent in your budget. As compared to floorstanders, bookshelves will not be able to give you a good bass response (frankly, I am quite satisfied with my bookshelves) but they save a lot of space. Couple them with a set of good amps (or used stereo receivers from Yamaha/Denon/Kenwood) and place them on stands. You could also add a subwoofer later, if you want to. You can connect your Chromecast device to the amplifiers using a 3.5mm -> RCA connector.
> I'm wondering how well mixing will work using these speakers. The Amphitheater only has an Aux In port, so I'm wondering if a short RCA to Aux cable will be sufficient and not generate too much static.
Yes - a cable like this will be fine - nice and short and you shouldn't have any issues.
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1452339040&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A7623518011
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426022009&sr=8-3&keywords=RCA+to+3.5mm+cable
and
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426021913&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+cable
The cable will allow you to hook up a computer or smartphone to the amp. The speaker wire will be used to hook your speakers to the amp.
I bought the SMSL SA-60 because I wanted the extra 3.5mm input to be able to switch between my TV and a phone or something for music. I can hook up my TV and my phone using a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable to the front of the and it works just fine, but when I use a 3.5mm to RCA cable into the back of the amp I can't get it to work (tried both my TV and my phone).
Did I get a defective product or am I a moron who doesn't know what the hell he's doing?
Also do you have a donation link or something like that? Your information has been extremely helpful.
I think your TV does not have audio out via AV Cable. I was looking at specs and it looks like the only audio out is headphone and optical. You could get a headphone to AV adapter to run headphone out from your TV into your Amp. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=psdc_1098227031_t1_B0100WN676
You'll record through the line in on the back from your computer with one of these cables. The mini plug goes into the computer and the left/right RCA jacks go into your deck. i.e. you don't use the mic input for this.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/
You want a deck that plugs into the wall. It should have a headphone jack, that's a must-have for making compilations.
You want a deck made near the end of the deck era, you want soft touch controls and terms like logic, servos, capstan, head alloy mentioned on the front of the deck. Do not go for vintage looks, as the older decks have way more issues that can pop up. Hopefully you'll find a nice JVC, Sony, Onkyo that should set you back less than your price targets you mentioned.
Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.
EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.
> I was browsing newegg and saw this amp has a nice deal going on right now: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882184507&cm_re=amp-_-82-184-507-_-Product
Pyle is a junk brand, stay far away from them. The go-to budget recommendation for amps is the SMSL SA50. You'll need speaker wire to go from the SMSL to the speakers, and a 3.5 mm to RCA cable to connect the SMSL to your computer.
No worries man! JBL>TRS to RCA>Schiit Sys>RCA to 3.5mm>Laptop. Plug the XLR connection into each speaker and then plug the other end of the XLR cable which is an RCA connection into the Sys output. Then plug the rca to the sys's input. Then plug the other end of the RCA input cables which is an AUX aka 3.5mm plug into your laptop. Another note is to make sure you have a long enough power cable for the JBLs as the one it comes with it quite short. Monoprice makes good cheap power cables such as this. Let me know if you have any other questions; I'd be happy to help!
90% sure that it is a no on that idea, but aside from the cost I don't see any harm in trying.
Although the easier way would be to use something like the following product to input your external audio into the K5:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1536247300&sr=8-8&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
Amazon dropped the ball on the Dot.
Just get a cheaper Chromecast Audio - it supports both analog(using 3.5mm or RCA and it's internal DAC like the Dot)... plus a digital out using S/PDIF - you'd connect it to the Optical Digital In connector on your AV receiver with a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWLF0/
You might want a headphone to RCA adapter cable.
EDIT: these would probably be the easiest hookup. Otherwise you'll likely need a more expensive optical to RCA converter box.
Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s.hoybTRY8KHP
EDIT 2: like this one. Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MaioybPMHMGQ0
EDIT 3: at second thought, the box will probably be a better choice.
Well I record my PO-20 using this interface and this wire. It's all worked perfectly well for me.
A 3.5mm aux/headphone jack to 2 x RCA cable is what you need.
Connect the 3.5mm to the computer and the RCA to the amplifier input marked "audio in".
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/
I'll condense all my information to this reply. A box like this is what you are looking for. It will take your SPDIF input and convert it to the 3 cable setup you currently have. Those 3 ports on the left will be the green black and orange cables you are using.
Now if you can't find that exact model in germany (with the 3 connectors on the left side that you need) then you can use any converter that takes your SPDIF input and outputs it to those red and white connectors. You can use those connectors with cables like these. That will give you the connectors you need to hook them up to your green black orange cables. The FL, CEN, SUB etc markings underneath each plug represent what channel they are. You use those extra cables you bought and hook them up accordingly into your logitech set.
EDIT: Something like this will work as well. That just eliminates the red/white plugs you dont need. But it has the 3 green/black/orange cables you need. They are marked underneath, just not color coded like your surround sound is. It will work fine.
You are looking for something along these lines:
https://amazon.com/Converter-192kHz-Techole-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07MPF4F68/ref=sr_1_4?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-4
​
https://amazon.com/ROOFULL-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B07142SV1D/ref=sr_1_3?crid=27BU29OQEP1Y&keywords=toslink+to+rca+converter&qid=1563574281&s=electronics&sprefix=tosl%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-3
​
Or, if you are insane & wealthy:
https://www.berkeleyaudiodesign.com/alpha-dac-reference-series-3
​
p.s. I believe you will need something like this if you don't have it already:
​
https://amazon.com/JSAUX-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B07D8M5DML/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1
​
https://amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=RCA+male+too+3.5&qid=1563574516&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PATXSI/ with https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ and https://bitgapp.com/eqmac/
The Dayton SUB-1000 here would be much better than the Polk’s you selected.
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1000-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU3AA
Either amp you selected can be connected to your PC. You just need an RCA to 3.mm cable like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0
By far the easiest thing to do will be to retain the player and feed it sound from your computer using either the optical connection or a simple adapter to the AUX in. If your computer has an optical port, that'll be a bit better and might actually support 5.1 depending on the content you're playing. The analog input will only be 2-channel or 2.1, depending on how the amp works. Still, that'll cover most content on a PC.
That's about all you can do without spending way more money than it's worth.
> I understand the easiest way to do this is by using a 3.5mm to RCA adapter but I don't have one.
Then get one they're inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0
Do you have something like this that you can get and test the sub by itself from your phone audio or something? Rule everything out and isolate just the subwoofer because you might actually have a defective product.
This will definitely be the cheaper option but there are still some newer stereo receivers with phono inputs. I have an Onkyo TX 8020 and it has a phono input. Looks like all/most of the Onkyo stereo receivers include a phono input.
But yeah OP, check your local Craiglist/Kijiji/whatever, people sell their older receivers for cheap all the time. That will definitely be the cheaper option if you are okay with going used. Receivers tend to age pretty well, just check to make sure it works.
EDIT: pretty much all receivers will have a headphone out on the front. It's often a 6.3 mm, but you can pick up a 3.5 to 6.3 adapter for pretty cheap.
As for aux in, a lot of stereo receivers will only have RCA inputs, but you can also pick up a 3.5 aux to RCA cable for cheap too. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0
Use something like this to hook the computer to the sub. Then use this in the subwoofers left and right rca to split the signal and use another rca cable up the pb42x and use your computer volume as you have been to control it. You would just set the sub up one time and leave it you wont have to mess with the gain as long as you dont mess with the pb42x gain.
If you watch this video at 3:35 it goes over what im talking about sorta
https://youtu.be/kF6s24fpDkk?t=216
From your computer to your receiver, you can use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable (almost all PCs and receivers), a digital TOSLINK cable (most PCs and most receivers), or some kind of USB DAC and RCA patch cables. Some receivers can connect directly to your PC using USB or wifi or wired network.
From your receiver to your unpowered speakers (no wall power connection), you would use whatever bare wire cables are currently attached to your speakers or 16 gauge or thicker electrical cable. If you are using powered speakers (with wall power connection), those usually take RCA patch cables, although some have bare wire connectors as well.
I already said this on another post, BUT if you ask me, for the money and build quality you can't beat Schiit Audio.
Pick up a MAGNI "HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP" for $99, a MODI "DAC" for $99 - $249 for the multibit version. So between $198-and $348 you can have an outstanding smi-portable DAC and Headphone/Preamp.
You will need a set of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the Headphone amp. As for connecting your smartphone you will need this USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter and then you will then need to connect that to a USB A-B Cable. Plug the "B" end of the USB A-B cable into the Dac. Additionally you could have skipped the DAC altogether and ran a RCA-to-3.5 cable right into the back of the headphone amp. But if you are aiming to take advantage of the HiFi/master audio I would recommend you use the DAC method. Connecting your laptop is just as easy and you can just run the USB A-B cable into the DAC. Or, if your computer has an optical audio output you could use a Toslink cable to connect direct into the DAC.
your all set man. get after it.
Getting stereo audio and getting HDMI output are two different issues. If you don't care about video quality, then just use your existing AV cable to get composite from the back and something like this to get audio from the front.
If you want high-quality video, there's a wide range of expensive and inconvenient options available to you as laid out in another comment. I recommend an OSSC with SCART cables if you intend to get RGB video from other retro consoles in the future. If you just want Genesis and don't care for any other complications, wait for the Rad2X to come out.
Depending on your budget it could go from $60 for a pair of decent speakers, upwards to $1000 for a single speaker.
I would start here This is a good guide to speakers.
The speakers that I personally use are the Dayton Audio B652
As for a mini amp, then I use an Audioengine N22 for my stuff, which I connect from the laptop using a simple 3.5mm to Stereo RCA cable
If you're going directly to a subwoofer (which is probably a better option since you're also watching movies and you don't need the extra amp) then you'd still need that same y cable, but you'd be wiring it differently. The best sub that matches price with capability is probably made by Hsuresearch, Dayton Audio, and SVS.
There are many more brands out there, and it goes well into a deep hole.
Yes, you need a DAC, but you can use the one built into your phone (or any device with a 3.5mm/headphone output). You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA cable like this (I'm assuming you're using the Massdrop version of the O2)
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0
Yes, you likely don't need a DAC.
You should be able to connect your computer directly to the magni 3 using RCA cables out of your motherboard. Or you can use a headphone out with a 3.5mm -> RCA adapter to connect to the magni 3.
With the JDS atom amp, you can put a 3.5mm (standard audio input) directly into the back from any device instead of having to deal with an adapter, etc.
You can get something like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0
One of the speakers needs to be plugged into an outlet. That speaker is powered and has a built-in amplifier to drive the speakers. No need for a receiver or amplifier. Just plug directly into your source.
You will also need a cable like this to go from RCA to the stereo inputs.
The 3.5mm goes to your source, right? And the RCA ends go to your speakers? The issue with male RCA ends is that the cable may have one of those nubs preventing the cables from splitting past a certain point. If it's just a 3.5mm to RCA cable you need, those are easy to find.
Ahhhh, I see what you mean. In that case, you should be totally fine if you pick up an RCA to 3.5mm converter, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511914603&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm&psc=1
So if you did pick up an AT LP5, you should be able to switch on the TT preamp, and run that cable straight from the TT to your speakers. I hope that helps! :-)
Just FYI, you can hook this up to your computer or smartphone using the aux input and a cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1564516794&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Note, ultimate fidelity would be better with a dedicated DAC to connect computer/phone, but even using the adapter cable it will probably sound better than anything you've heard.
Just so you know you're not limited to playing vinyl records or something, which are fun but require a lot more commitment.
One more thing - this receiver is only going to sound as good as the speakers you connect. That doesn't mean expensive - there are plenty of vintage speakers in the $100-$150 range that will blow you away. Look for brands like EPI, Boston Acoustics, ADS, Dynaco, KLH, Advent, or just search "vintage speakers" on your local Facebook marketplace or Craigslist. This was a luxury item when new, and will offer a refined, sweet sound quality that is difficult to find in new equipment.
If you're space limited, I would recommend some smaller, newer NHT speakers or just using it as a headphone amp, which many people do, see head-fi.org vintage receiver thread.
If you decide to keep it, enjoy the beginning of your journey into high quality audio and more satisfying music listening. A MAC1700 is a rare and lucky find, my foray into vintage audio started similarly with finding my dad's old Sansui G-9000 in our attic.
You'll need an amplifier for it. You'll probably want one that has a dedicated high level subwoofer output. This Lepy 2.1 amplifier £40 and this 3.5mm to RCA cable £6 will get you in business if you have speakers to hook up to it. I'm sure if you already have speakers or what.
From what I can tell, you have an Apple Music subscription, which is the only streaming service that allows you to play music using Siri. In that case, you can buy a Bluetooth receiver, such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AGQMQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Kgo5AbBDF24K8
A lot of these seem to be made with batteries so they can work in cars, but I see no issue with just leaving it plugged into the charger.
Chromecast audio does not appear to have Bluetooth from what I can tell (although I don't own one, so if someone can say otherwise, please do.)
You could also do what I did and hook up an Amazon Echo Dot to your speakers. You won't be able to use Alexa to control Apple Music, but you can say "Alexa, connect my phone" and then play it over Bluetooth. I bought a used one with zero scratches or anything like that for $30 and I couldn't be happier.
You'll also probably need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fmo5AbMYS6FKM
Hope this helps, just reply if you have any questions. :)
Edit: also I just noticed the thing in your post about the Charge 3, I have a UE Boom and it wouldn't let me do something like that, so I doubt the charge 3 would either.
You can just use a plain headphone to Stereo RCA (Red, White) cable and plug one end to the neo geo and the pair, plug that into the TV. Then you only plug in the yellow cable from the AV out and leave the extra Mono out put hanging.
Looks like your best bet would be to take the headphone 1/8” out and run that into the Sherwood using an 1/8” male to rca “y” male cable.
AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_336CDbXF2ZXG8
I'll give this route a go, thank you!
Pretty much all motherboards have built in sound. Just plug this into your green headphone jack on the back of the PC and the red/white RCA to your receiver input.
Those are what are called "passive" speakers; they need an amplifier.
You'll also need some speaker wire and a 3.5 mm TRS to stereo RCA cable.
Use the TRS-to-RCA cable to connect the computer's "audio out" to the amplifier's "line in", and use the speaker wire to connect the speakers to the amplifier.
In other words.
Turntable -> preamp -> amp/receiver -> speakers
Digital -> amp/receiver -> speakers
Digital to speaker could be as simple as a headphone jack to RCA (like this ). You could also do Bluetooth, airplay, tosslink, etc. all depends on what your digital source is.
These aren't highly sought after products. Orion only has a few of those (such as 90s HCCA stuff which were fine, but only really consumed these days for nostalgia). So they are really worth what any oldish used electronics product in unknown condition is worth these days: not much unfortunately.
The good news is they probably still work. Solid-state electronics can be just fine ten or twenty years later. The best way to test them is to hook them up to a charged-up car battery or the 12V output of a computer power supply. Then plug in a phone with a minijack to RCA conversion cable (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2). Of course you'll have to plug them into a speaker. Even if it's an 8 Ohm home speaker, you can still test them just fine.) And if they don't work, there's a million low-cost replacement options out there these days.
Headphone are tiny higher impedance and very light weight. It does not take much power to drive them
Speaker however, are heavy, even small speakers such as you have, and low impedance. You need a separate Amplfier to drive them.
Check out T-Amp on Amazon, they are not very expensive -
Lepai Amps -
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=lepai+amplifier&sprefix=Lepai+%2Caps%2C332&crid=N9RCRIMVTZHN
Topping Amps -
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Topping+amps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3ATopping+amps
SMSL Amps -
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=SMSL+Amplifiers&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3ASMSL+Amplifiers
Lepai are probably the lowest cost - Lepai LP2020A - $22.25 -
https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Amplifiers-Component-LP-2020A-Class-D/dp/B01FZKA28Y/
Get a cable like this in whatever length you need, plug the 3.5mm Stereo into the computer, and plug the TWO RCA into the Lepai Amp.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/
there's a "line out" 3.5mm output on the back of the fiio, you just get a set of 3.5mm to RCA cables and put the RCA side into the back of the Magni.
The line out bypasses the amp section of the fiio entirely and just uses the dac portion
First, to connect the amp to the PC, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter like this. Just plug the 3.5mm end into the output on your computer, and the RCA end into whichever input you like on the amp (they're all identical, just named so that you can remember what is what). Make sure to go white-to-white and red-to-red to get left and right correct.
Then you just need speaker wire from the amp outputs to each of your speakers. Just use either the A or the B outputs (they are the same). Again, make sure to go from the left output to the left speaker and the same for the right. Also, make sure that the negative terminal of the amp hooks up to the negative (black) terminal on the speakers, and the positive on the amp goes to the positive (red) on the speakers.
Finally, just use a reglar RCA cable to go from the "pre out" on the amp to the input of your subwoofer, again being sure to go red-to-red and white-to-white on both the amp and subwoofer ends.
Just Google "RCA to 3.5mm stereo adapter"
Here is an e ample of one:
AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z7TNBbMNXZ5A9
There is your problem.
You need something like this. It is amazon basics but you can get whatever the hell you want.
Most receivers use a single RCA for sub out (in which case your cable would work) but for some reason the SMSL uses 3.5mm for the sub out. If the connecotr isn't right all the sub will do is hum. It should barely hum if you use the right connector.
Yea, I don't have it yet but plan on buying this [active speaker kit](JBL ACTPACK Active Studio Monitor Enhancement Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1DGYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AurUAbTBTTHKG)
Its a pain to reach behind to adjust the volume on each speaker but you don't do it as often as you'd think. This is more to encourage the wife to use the system easier.
Unless you don't think the cable is going to reach you should be able to plug the turntable straight into the switch I believe.
I used these [ cables ] (Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JyrUAbKADDQYB) to connect the switch output to each of the speakers
And you would need [this cable](AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8ArUAbK3ZZJAT) for the Chromecast.
do you mean to say using a headphone jack to 2xRCA audio cable like this one?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2
or this
https://store.google.com/gb/product/rca_cable_chromecast_audio?hl=en-GB
The real question should be 'connecting speakers to Xbox'. Just so you know the sound really doesn't come from the monitor, but from the xbox. You need two things. Speakers and an HDMI Audio Extractor. Something like this We use one of these for our Roku to a soundbar for watching TV. The HDMI cable carries sound and video so you need a little device like this to extract and split that signal to some speakers.
So when you get it, you'll also need a second HDMI cable. Xbox -> to Audio Extractor with HDMI cable -> second HDMI cable to TV. Then an audio cable from Audio Extractor to speakers. Depending on speakers you might have to get another cable Like this
The back of the LP-60 should have an RCA out. In which case, you probably want one of these cables: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2
Assuming you can plug that amp in to a regular socket, you'd just need 3.5 to rca like this
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5+rca&qid=1556632699&s=gateway&sr=8-3
run that from the projector to the amp then speaker wire from the amp to speakers. I've had issues with cheap projectors like that having a "ground loop hum" so there's a hissing sound if you use the audio out. If you get that you'll need to bypass the projector audio and try and get the sound from the laptop to the amp and speakers.
So that speaker system already has an amplifer built into it, and adding an external one will not help. You will however need a phono preamp between the RCA output of the table and the speaker input. So:
RCA from table -> RCA input on phono preamp -> phono preamp -> RCA output from phono preamp -> adapter -> control pod on speaker system.
So you need a phono preamp, and an RCA male to 1/4" TRS female adapter.
That turntable is pretty good for its time/price, though you should probably replace the cartridge and/or stylus.
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Toslink-Audio-Adapter-Xbox-Slim/dp/B009GUO15K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370216888&sr=8-1&keywords=xbox+monoprice+audio
That and this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1370216986&sr=8-3&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
>Cons: Heavy.
For some reason I cannot stop laughing. Reminds me of this review about RCA-to-3.5mm audio output.
Here's the actual product page.
Ok, this solution is a bit tricky, so bear with me.
If you're playing an Xbox 360, here's how the cable output should look normally:
Xbox 360 -> HDMI -> Elgato -> HDMI/USB -> TV/PC
Right?
Well you can leave all of that plugged in, and also plug in this into the Component slot, and then this into the Component input, with your headphones plugged into the 3.5mm jack.
I drew a diagram while figuring this out, so here is that.
I can't seem to find something similar for a Playstation, but I might not be looking for the right things. In any case, if nothing else works, you could always try just buying a cable hub. Every console plugs into it, and it outputs to headphones, the cap card, and the TV.
You can use the Chat Link on the original HD. But you'll need a 3.5mm to stereo RCA adapter to connect it to the Analog audio inputs of your HD.
https://youtu.be/ZkI4UVzPxzw?t=129
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1446597460&sr=8-3
So, the HDMI is going into one of the two HDMI in slots right?
And there isnt any sound?
Then get a 3.5mm cable, stick it in the headphone jack and use a 3.5mm audio to RCA splitter and plug it into the coressponding white/red input for the HDMI slot selected.
That was my problem too in the beginning. This may get a little long, but I can definitely help you out.
Elgato has page to help with this issue
I use the original Elgato HD and at first I had a headset with a USB and 3.5mm headphone jack, so I had to make a little jerry rig setup with a splitter and an audio Y cable
But if you are willing to spend some money, I highly recommend getting this headset
Its what I am using now because I can talk to my teammates in game, hear my tv audio, and listen to music or donation goals on my PC since it has a multi media source input.
I hope this helps.
I mean there is certainly potential for that?
I don't know how the optical out would convert (especially if you are going wireless) to say analog--then to bluetooth.
From HDMI to your HDTV, I would assume it has red/white out. I just recently bought a new TV that had, per usual, crappy sound. I happened to have a RW to 3.5mm female converter lying around, and I connected a decent pair of PC speakers. They work super well, and put out the right kind of sound depth I need.
I wouldn't be surprised if you could slap a Bluetooth transmitter on the end of that, and it would work? Those converters are only like two bucks on amazon, and they're useful for other things too, so its not like it would be a big hit on the wallet since you already have, I assume, the BT transmitter as well.
EDIT: Just for reference, here is the cord I'm talking about.
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420062412&sr=8-2&keywords=RCA+to+3.5+mm+female
^
I can't seem to edit my post right now (on mobile).
The adaptor should be female like this... http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE
Depends on the TV. Most TVs have audio out either with Toslink (digital) or RCA (analog). Although I've seen headphones with Toslink they're specialty items so I'm going to assume you need analog.
In that case you'll need this: RCA Stereo to 3.5 Stereo Adapter
This assumes the headphone have the standard 3.5mm mini plug which would be on most devices that plug into phones or MP3 players.
Sure. The audio can be a little tricky but here is what I have. The easiest thing would be if your home theater system or tv accepted optical inputs so that you could use the xbox's built in optical and connect if directly to your tv or home theater system without doing any conversions. If that does not work you have to convert the optical to a 3.5mm connection or a rca audio connection (these are the red and white components next to your dvi connection) . The way to do that is by way of adapter or cords. Like others have stated adapters might give you latency problems. So a cord might prove the better way to go. Ultimately for your connection it looks like you will have to go from optical to 3.5mm to RCA audio. Conversely the newer controllers have a 3.5mm connection built into it. So you would just have to go from 3.5mm to RCA audio.
I'll try to find links but hopefully this gives you a starting point.
Edit
Start with this or {this + this} then convert that signal to RCA with this
-In theory this should work
Use the VGA to connect to the TV, then use a male/male audio cable with component splitter to put the audio in. This should work fine: http://www.amazon.com/QVS-CC400M-06-Male-Audio-Cable/dp/B0000932A9
http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1345390595&sr=1-6&keywords=audio+component+adapter
So this? https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE
I'm not sure I understand what you're looking for if not an adapter, there are adapters that convert rca out to any input that a speaker could take. You don't need to buy a speaker that specifically takes rca input in order to use rca equipment
The word "port" just refers to the physical connections. Ports can be either inputs (they take in a signal) or outputs (which send out a signal). You're in luck though, according to the product manual (page 6) linked from the page you just provided the URL to, the ports on the side of the TV are outputs. If you want to use a 3.5mm cable connection (like for computer speakers) then this adapter (or one like it) is what you need.
So your speakers have a 3.5mm MALE coming out of them?
If so, this is what you need:
2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xkyKwb16ZG5E4
Are they powered/amplified speakers? Based on this configuration, I'm guessing they are not powered, so I don't think this will work anyway as you are feeding sound out of a controller not an amp/mixer.
This would do the trick for $1.24 but the cable might be a bit short. Fortunately there's a 3 foot cable that's only $6.59.
If you have powered monitors, why not just get an RCA > 3.5mm Female adapter and hook the speakers to the Magni 2's pass-through? Set the speakers to near max volume and master control through the magni 2's knob.
PC > modi 2 > magni 2 > headphones
> RCA Line-out > RCA to 3.5mm Female Adapter > powered monitors
Literally this
Ok. I understand what you are trying to do and it will be a bit of a pain in the wallet no matter how you slice it.
I can think of 3 ways to go:
As you can see, there really is no magic bullet for what you are trying to do with an analog signal - if your speakers and headphones were capable of digital input this would be much simpler.
Amp, RCA to 3.5 female, 3.5 Bluetooth adapter
Pick an amp
RCA to 3.5 female
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I23TTE/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
Bluetooth adapter
http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=6581843&pid=1218759758130&ep=pv-2.2.8,rc-av,av-0,rk-1
The one I use with the same turntable and that's quite cheap (so you can upgrade later) is the Behringer PP400 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H2BC4E
Basically, the sound coming out straight from the turntable is going to be very low so you need this to amplify the sound (and ground the turntable using the weird extra cable ending with a U). Then you can connect the output of the preamp to your speakers directly in order to test it (with a cable like this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I23TTE
Depending on what you want to do afterwards you may want to buy an amp or a receiver or even powered speakers but I believe the sidebar has more info regarding this.
This should do.
EDIT: Or the one I linked in my other comment, speakers can be plugged directly into that.
It sounds like you need one of these?
RCA Audio Piggyback Cable
Or these?
RCA Y Splitter Adapter
Then go with one of these.
RCA to 3.5mm female
You will need amplified headphones also. You can power the headphone from the usb on the TV or use a USB wall block.
If this won't work for you it should get into the right area to search for something along these lines.
It looks like the Z506 takes in line-level input via some 1/8" headphone jacks or RCA. That means at the very least you will need a powered sub, or an amp and passive sub. Since the speakers don't have any outputs, you are looking at a weird setup that will likely have volume balance problems between everything.
If you are using the RCA connections, you could split the signal between your speakers and this guy.
If you are using the headphone style connections, this is a tad more complicated. If you are using 3 plugs for 5.1 surround sound, I think the sub channel is one one of the pins in the orange connector. If you are using just one connector (stereo, you probably are plugged into the green) you will need to get even more adapters.
Overall, I don't recommend any of the above. If you need something to be louder, you need better speakers.
For recording, I have a composite piggyback cable (one female into two males, i.e. a three-pronged version of this) that I send to my CRT and USB connector. All's well, but at my apartment, we typically keep my wii connected to our HDTV/sound system (my roommates tell me there are apparently other games people play on the wii besides smash) and so whenever I play (frequently) I have to pull my CRT out of the closet, and move the wires from our intricately wired sound system box to the back of the CRT.
I'm considering purchasing a second piggyback wire so that the wii can go to both the HD TV as well as my CRT, so I don't have to constantly re-wire things and so that I can have my CRT live by our entertainment system. Would there be any problems with lag or signal if I were to have the wii feeding out to three connections through all of these piggybacks? When I play I'll be keeping the HDTV off, and won't be recording much.
I can't believe no one gave you a real response. Buy this and this. Plug the S-video part in to the capture card and the yellow cable in to your TV. Use these to split the audio. Easy cheap recording setup for melee.
Is something like this or this what you're looking for? One is single male to dual female, and the other is single female to dual male.
Sorry hadn't seen those before...
All you are trying to do is get the preamp signal at line level to the Speakers and Subwoofer. So all you'll need to do is split the TT output.
Plug one of these into the TT and the other into the Speakers and Subwoofer
or
Plug the single end of this cable into the TT. Plug the the other end into the Sub. Piggy back another RCA out of it and run that to the speakers.
What outputs does your laptop have? It usually has a vga and an s-video, newer ones have hdmi. TVs usually have S-Video, RCA or HDMI. I bought a 25' hdmi cable for my desktop computer to my tv. It costs under $7 + shipping on amazon. HDMI cables cover audio and video.
If you don't have hdmi on your laptop, you will need 2 cords. One for video signal and one for audio.
1.Here is a 6'ft stereo to rca (audio cable) on amazon for $1.50.
2. Here is an S-video cable for 63 cents on amazon
3. If you only have VGA on your laptop, it will be costlier ($20) because you need a converter to change it to RCA or S-Video - unless your TV accepts VGA (I have an hd tv which has vga, rca, s-video and hdmi).
Yep that looks like it would do fine.
Your speakers are dumb. They have no idea what they are connected to. They simply are looking for a speaker level input.
I can't find a good description of the inputs on that particular unit, so you will probably need an 1/8th inch stereo to rca cable to go from the output on your laptop to the input on the back of that amplifier, then you hook the speakers in to the back as well and you will be good to go.
i have made mixtapes in the way you've described (with an ipod, not a pc, but it's the same idea). get a 3.5mm headphone-to-rca cable and connect that to the "record" jacks on the back of the unit.
you should be good to go!!
The cheap way is a 3.5mm to RCA cable.
A fancier option would be a bluetooth audio reciever, though I don't know too much about these, having never used one personally. This would be used in conjuction with a 3.5mm female to RCA stereo adapter cable, which is in the "Frequently Bought Together" section
Also, if you have an X-Box, PS3, or other DLNA-compatible device connected to your stereo, you can use Media Server to stream music files from your phone. However, this will not work with streaming services like Pandora or Google Play Music.
This is a good idea. Use This.
You have the xbox audio into the adapter plugged into your computer's MIC port and then install Audacity to record the audio. You can then save it, but need THIS extension to save mp3s
On second thought, don't buy the Xbox Brand one for $40. Get a third party cable. It works just as well. You might need to get an adapter for audio depending on if it comes with it or not.
For non-simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.
Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.
For simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):
Buy:
Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.
This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: http://i.imgur.com/UPMX5j2.png. It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).
I... I think that setup would work.
Ah, okay. I think the "mini jack" output means you can just get something like this.
Optical is a better option, but since it's a digital output, you'd need a DAC to convert to analog for the amp. If you want to go that route, cheap ones are around $30, and the best you'll ever need is around $100.
You would use this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394029540&sr=8-1&keywords=stereo+to+rca+cable
Connect the stereo end to your source, and connect the RCA ends to the back of the Muse amp.
Then you would follow this diagram on how to wire it up:
http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
Credit goes to /u/ZeosPantera for the diagram.
You would set the crossover on the back of the subwoofer amp to around 80 Hz. The specs on the Micca's state that they're good down to 60 Hz, but I don't know if I believe that. Listen to see if there's a hole in the bass to determine where to set the crossover. You want it to sound as seamless as possible.
The "AUX IN" ports are where you plug your phone. You will need a cable which has a connector for your phone and on the other end there is RCA connectors. If you have basic 3.5mm connector on the phone then you can buy 3.5mm RCA cable.
Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1334943829&sr=1-2
$3 and free shipping. The red and white plug into the tape monitor output on your receiver and the 3.5mm goes into the mic jack on the computer.
This is what you'll need for audio:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C
And for video:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40456-Value-Composite/dp/B0019MGIT0
I would suggest you get the Pi from somewhere else. It should be around $35 (I got mine from Newark.com)
you could just get a cable like this or this and use your computer's microphone port for recording. the quality of the audio and available sample-rate/bit-depth options will depend on how nice your computer's soundcard is. if you want to record each individual channel on your mixer (to allow the adjustment of levels and application of effects to specific tracks in post production) you will need a more advanced multi-channel audio interface. an iRig allows you to plug an instrument which has a 1/4" output into your iPhone's headphone jack, this wouldn't really help you as it only allows one channel and still leaves the analog to digital conversion to your computer's sound card. if you are looking for something better, explore the USB interfaces suggested in the other comments.
Basically you would buy this from Amazon and use the splitter cable that comes with the X11's to plug the Xbox into VGA port of the monitor and switch back and forth from DVI for PC and VGA for XBOX.
Also purchase this in order to tie your xbox audio into the built-in speakers in case you don't want to use your headset.
I've used this exact setup for both of my nephews :)
You could go from the Xbox rca output to a cheap Fiio amp. Or you could get a dac/amp combo that supports toslink.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E5-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B001P9EQH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324088821&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1324088830&sr=8-4
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_2?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1324298178&sr=8-2
$2.69, no shipping cost with Amazon Prime (probably qualifies for free super saver shipping too).
I bought one of these Xbox VGA adapters a few months ago, and it works like a champ.
If you get one of these RCA to Stereo adapters, you can run the sound into your computer's sound-in port and play your game sounds through your computer speakers.
Assuming your N64 is using the standard Composite A/V cable, you'd plug the yellow into the "SIDEAV" port for video.
If your TV doesn't have any audio inputs, you'll have to handle sound separately. Do you have a set of speakers with aux inputs? Some of them will take the Red/White RCA cables directly, but most will at least have a 3.5mm input in which case you'd need an adapter like this.
If your TT has built in stereo phono cables, use this adapter to plug it into your speakers. http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Male-Female-inch/dp/B0018MI5F6
If there are no built in cables and instead just two phono jacks on the back, use this. http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Stereo-Design-accommodates-SmartPhones/dp/B004YEBK66
Your TT has a built in phono preamp, so make sure that's switched on and you should be good to go.
I see there is a Phone/Line switch. Since the cable is not removable this should do, right?
https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Stereo-Female-Adapter-Y-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6
Meh... Both 70 and 50 bucks as suggested in comments is a lot.
Buy something like this, connect the classical (not HDMI one) cord to PS3, connect audio cinches with that converter and plug any headphones without microphone you can find (I use ones that cost like 10 bucks). You need to select audio output to the regular cable, not HDMI, in the PS3 menu but that's a piece of cake ;).
I'm really surprised at how terrible advice you guyz are giving him. I mean, 40-50 bucks just to use headphones on PS3? It's ok if he wants to invest 40-50 bucks but if he wants it to be as cheap as possible, this is a very easy solution.
Edit: Now, you will need both RCA (cinches) females and headphone jack female. I can't find this option on amazon at the moment but you can do with female cinches and male jack as long as you buy female-female jack connector.
PC->modi is USB A->B, modi->magni is RCA
Looks like you're gonna want to get an RCA cable like this (red and white on both ends). Run that from the record player to the subwoofer, then run that speaker cable from the two speakers to the subwoofer. This only works because your sub is powered.
Check out /r/zeos for more stuff like this if you need more help/diagrams and stuff. Also, look up the subwoofer crawl and speaker placement guides for getting it to sound as good as possible
nope, they are passive speakers. that's why we suggest a SMLS SA-60 with it. you would also need two of these RCA to RCA cables. they don't have to necessarily be those. maybe someone has a better recommendation in the US.
These: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483470447&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+rca
Sure did! works great, very east to use. Been switching the stack between the PS4 optical and the micro usb connector (need a longer cable) on my MacBook pro. Noticeable difference when I'm just using the aux on my mac.
Also @jayfurious
> I remember having to do this setting everytime I unplugged and replugged in the splitter from the dualshock. But I don't have a PS4 anymore, so not sure if the annoyance is still there or they fixed it.
It's still there tolerable though.
Previous setup I was using the Steel Series Arctis 7 for well over a year. At first I was unimpressed following the common theme from a-lot of HD650/HD6XX reviews. Been using them alot recently and now I really can tell the difference in sound signature now. Will try the Arctis 7s in a week or so here to see how much of a difference I notice. I use them for (order from most to least) gaming where I'm still getting used to the soundstage for FPS (ambient/soundtracks in single player game , movies/TV which gave me a-lot more appreciation for them, hearing every detail, and last but certainly not least music; where I find these shine the most IMO LOOOOVED my first listen to Yes - Roundabout. Huge difference when going through that stack rather than my Macbooks aux.
I also have to highly commend Roppmaster's RCA cable recommendation
>RCA cables: https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair/dp/B01ALMYOHQ/.
The extension cables were a must for me and a great purchase.
These work so much better than the Monoprice RCA's I originally opted for they were so inflexible they were actually lifting the backside of my Modi 3 into the air. These RCA's are the perfect flexibility for the stack setup. Will post a pic soon.
Get rid of those cables- they are garbage. The ones that i used are these:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499780378&sr=8-3&keywords=monoprice+rca
Of course choose the proper length. With these i have zero noise n my table. I tried swapping in the original cables and its atrocious. These cables are super cheap and well insulated/shielded. This would be the first thing i would do in your case.
So you have a cable that looks more like this? Then any old RCA cable should work to connect to the back of your Vali. I feel like most homes (or friends) will have a couple laying around.
A USB cable is included, but you'd have to pick up some short RCA cables. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/
Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.
You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.
USB A to B I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
RCA Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L1717K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1426706903&sr=8-2&keywords=monoprice+rca&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=416iQd-rgoL&ref=plSrch
similar, but half the length, I use these for my setup
On the TV, make sure you plugged the RCA cable into outputs and not inputs. Also if the TV has a headphone jack or line out try a cable like this one with the 3.5mm plug going into the TV and the RCA plugs going into the receiver. With that setup you shouldnt have any issues with the cable box or Chromecast outputting audio. In the future however whenever it's in the budget, I would recommend an HDMI capable receiver. a decent one should not cost too much.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1484803081&sr=8-8&keywords=headphone+to+rca
Depending on the features you want, you could go with a simple amp.
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404996566&sr=8-1&keywords=2.1+amplifier
You could obviously spend a LOT more, but that would get you started. Of course, this depends on the connections the speakers use. That amp uses normal speaker wire for both the speaker and the amp. That would let you plug in anything with a 3.5mm headphone jack using something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404996848&sr=8-1&keywords=RCA+to+3.5
I personally would rather use the RCA inputs in the back, but you could use the 3.5mm aux jack in the from if you wanted.
Depending on your setup, you might also like using a mixer. I have a behringer Xynex802, this lets me mix my laptop, phone, and desktop microphone into my speakers, headphones, and laptop's input.
I use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66) once in a while, it works well. You don't need $1000 cables, just get something that doesn't look really crappily made :-)
This is a great company, I have a pair of their older speakers and they sound great.
Speakers: $344.50
http://www.amazon.com/SpeakerCraft-OE5-One-Outdoor-Speaker/dp/B0017LADVW/ref=sr_1_6?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1394418175&sr=1-6&keywords=speakercraft+outdoor
Amplifier: $100
http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418458&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ausiosource+amp-100
RCA Cable: $10
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418952&sr=8-13&keywords=rca+cable
Speaker Cable: $10
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394419011&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+cable
For Wireless music, Bluetooth receiver, $32
http://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-NFC-enabled-Bluetooth-Receiver-System/dp/B009OBCAW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394419052&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+music+receiver
Total Cost: $496.50
Something like this (Amazon link).
And a charger unless you want to take the phone off to recharge it every couple of days.
Oh, and here's a cool and simple stand I'm using with some of my receivers.
Nothing fancy just in case someone gets sticky fingers;
Amp
Headphones
Audio Cable
Tube Upgrade
Not sure why you would want the l/r and the center, other than it's a good deal. Are you hoping to fill it out to 5.1 eventually?
I've never heard Fluance, but the go-to recommendations around here are one of these two Pioneer speakers, or the Miccas. Search this sub to look for reviews (and double check the model numbers if you're interested. I'm doing this from memory). If you get the Pioneers you should be able to afford the subwoofer that goes with it. Also, you can usually find a Polk sub like this one on sale.
There are better options, I'm sure, but these get a lot of recommendations for budget systems. I have a brother in law with the Pioneers and no sub and he's pretty happy.
As for hooking it up, you just need a 3.5mm to RCA jack cable like this one. Also, if your receiver has an s/pdif input you could go from the sound card to the receiver that way. If you use the first cable, the sound card will be decoding the digital into analog. If you use the s/pdif cable, your receiver will do the decoding. Depending on the DACs in the card and receiver, one might be better than the other.
> JVC RX-6010V
That would be perfect. Get a 3.5 mm to rca cord and connect it from your laptop to any input and it should sound awesome.
I linked to a cord on amazon because I love them, but you may find one cheaper on monoprice.com.
Looks like you don't have a 3.5mm input, so you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA. Then just hook it to one of your stereo inputs. (CD or media player).
Something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
>weirdo 3.5mm connector-at-one-end RCA connector at the other cable? Does that cable even exist?
They're not that uncommon. They're usually used just for audio, lots of stereos use RCA connectors.
http://www.monoprice.com/Search/Index?keyword=3.5mm+RCA
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405333386&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+3.5mm
First you'll need a VGA to RCA composite converter to convert the signal from a computer's VGA output to an RCA composite signal.
Then you'll need a VCR, I assume you have one. I also assume you have a blank VHS. Finally you'll need a 3.5 mm to RCA cable.
After obtaining this stuff, load the file up on your computer, load the tape into the VCR, press record on the tape, press play, make sure that you're not turned up too loud on the audio output. Make necessary adjustments, then go for final record to the tape.
If you have a DVD that you want converted, it's a bit easier. Just connect the player to the VCR and queue up the video, then press play. Just note, if you have a disc that is encoded with Macrovision, it will look like crap.
Note that I have never done this, but it should work.
that aux in appears to just need an 3.5mm to RCA jack
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
note: that adapter is stupid expensive but you get the idea.
I have no idea how that equipment works, but Aux In is usually simple enough.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
I wish computers worked like they were supposed to all the time. Corrupt drivers cause all kinds of weird issues. If you haven't been able to completely remove the driver and any remnants from the registry/ file system and then install it again your best bet is probably going to be a stand alone audio cable.
Hm, I'm not sure why the RCA-RCA connection wouldn't work in this case, but I'm not super experienced with hifi amps.
Other things you could try:
basically I have no idea why it doesn't work as is, but maybe one of these things will? The most basic thing I would troubleshoot is that you can get output from the RCA outs on your 2i4 at all
The simple solution is get a 3.5 to RCA cable and plug it in to the headphone/speaker jack of your motherboard. The RCA end (red and white) goes into the amp.
Most people with that headset/amp chose to go with an external DAC (Modi 2 as an example), which would connect to the pc via USB, then to the amp via RCA (red and white) connections.
> Behringer U-Control UCA202
So, first off, you'll need some RCA to RCA cables.
The idea of a mix-minus is that you're looping the "output" back into the "input." Skype only hears the first input on your interface, so that's where you'll need to connect your microphone (unless you're using the built-in mic). The other output will need to be connected to the other input.
I'm not exactly sure how to set that up on your specific setup because I am not familiar with this interface. Most of them have some sort of software that allows to decide where to route audio, but I don't know the limitations of this one.
This is a good video that explains the basics of a mix-minus. I'd give that a watch.
The dual RCA to the L AND R input in the sub was correct right?
This plug: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H8KO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The cable that you plug into your computer is 3.5mm, but the other end is a left and right rca plug (red and white) that plug into the speaker. This is a 3.5mm to rca adapter. What you would do is buy 2 rca Y splitters and 4 rca cables (buy 2 sets of red and white for less confusion example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H8P0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521013079&sr=1-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51tDOqNZw0L&ref=plSrch)
What you do is unplug the rca end from the speaker and put a Y splitter on both the red and white rca ends of the adapter cable. Now plug your new rca cables into the Y splitters, make sure that both red cables go into the splitter on the red end of the adapter and that both white cables go into the splitter on the white end of the adapter. Now run one white cable and one red cable to the red and white inputs on your speaker. Run the other red and white cables to the red and white inputs on your sub.
Now the computer signal goes to both the speakers and the sub.
When I said split both channels, I meant put a Y splitter on both the red and white ends of your 3.5mm to rca adapter. Red is the right channel, white is the left channel.
As for you confusion about maintaining more quality. Because it is possible to put a splitter on just the left OR right channel, if you did this the sub would only play bass from the left or right channel. This means that if a song has bass frequencies playing in only the left channel, but your sub is only plugged into the right channel, your sub would not play those frequencies. I'm not saying that you will get better quality, I'm saying that you have to plug both red and white into your sub so that it plays all the bass it is supposed to.
The sub does not send a signal to the Edifiers. With the splitters, your computer sends 2 signals, one to the sub and the other to the Edifiers.
Assuming you're plugging your Shield TV into an HDTV, couldn't you just use the audio-out on the TV with something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
Sorry for the bad scheme, i did It quickly, Hope it's helpful all the connection except those of the subwoofer are jack 3.5 so, you need to buy the splitter and rca-jack cable
I use this guy in my 2008 coupe and it seats just fine.
this cable from your computer to the aux input
save up a bit to get better speakers, those are probably good enough for now.
In order to use those speakers with a turntable youll need an RCA to 3.5MM adabter
Your issue is that those speakers only have a 3.5mm input so youll just need to plug the RCA to 3.5 into the preamp and into the speakers input port and it should work.
I don't see any product info available for a Stagepas 800i, but I do see info for both a Stagepas 400i and a 600i. Is your unit actually one of those models?
If it is either one of those, the RCA jacks on both of them are line level inputs, not outputs. The monitor outputs are dual 1/4" jacks just to the right of the one you were trying to use.
You will need an appropriate TS stereo breakout cable such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/
This cable is what you need for the mixter-to-computer interface.
As for microphone, many streamers use a "Large Diaphram Condenser" microphone. Condenser microphones require what's called "Phantom Power" to power a small circuit board within the mic for it to work. That's the reason that your $20 mic has a power supply.
My recommendation would be to buy something like this Audio Technica mic and get a mixer that has phantom power. This little Mackie board would do the trick. Alternatively, you could buy a "Phantom Power Supply" as a standalone component to provide the power to the mic.
That mic will be more reliable and sound better than the $20 one you picked.
They're active speakers, so you don't need an amp - their power comes from a standard plug in the wall. You'll need to buy a 3.5mm to TRS cable. Something like this
Here's a suggestion: 2x JBL LSR305 MK2; and this cable. Then buy a Chromecast Audio which is about $35. (not available on amazon because they hate google). This will give you wifi connected audio you can cast to from spotify or other sources. I have 2 of these setups in my house; these speakers can play very loud.
I have used these for the mono Volcas.
https://www.gear4music.com/G4M/Minijack-Jack-Cable-1m/108P
For the stereo Volcas these worked.
https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
The Hosa cables will work but you end up only plugging one of the 1/4 cables in. I found the mono cables to be more tidy.
I would get a DAC for it, but to go straight to the computer you can simply get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6.
As for volume control, I leave the volume on the back at around 12 o clock and just leave it there while just controlling my windows volume.
You can get a volume controller for your speakers that look like this: http://www.tcelectronic.com/level-pilot/ this will need some different cables.
OR you can get a volume controller for you computer audio like this: http://griffintechnology.com/support/powermate
Why not the LSR305's? Bx5's are still a fine choice though. I was satisfied with them until I upgraded.
> What cables do I need?
A cable like this will do the trick.
> Does it come with packaged with these cables?
Nope.
Here you go, have a look at this post
https://www.gearslutz.com/board/newbie-audio-engineering-production-question-zone/959088-focusrite-scarlet-2i2-computer-speakers.html
> 1. (preferred) Use the Scarlett 2i2 main outputs on the back panel labeled "Line Outputs (1) Left and (2) Right". Those are balanced TRS outputs, but since you are going into an unbalanced stereo input the correct connection is via a dual 1/4-inch TS to 3.5 mm stereo mini TRS cable. This is sometimes called an "Insert", "Splitter" or "Breakout" cable. Plug into the FPS1500 jack labeled; "Audio Inputs FRONT"
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412796471&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5+mm+stereo+to+dual+1%2F4+inch+TS+cable&tag=pda0ea-20
I've never tried this, so I can't guarantee it works, I'm not an expert in connecting XLR/TRS outputs to things, I'm afraid.
I got a 1/4 TS to 3.5mm cable that I read on another comment to use for my computer
Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4" TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cZ8BDbGQCX98S
If you need a dual male 1/4" to male stereo 1/8" those cables are super common. If you need a dual male 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" those cables aren't as common but still exist.
You can also easily by the stereo audio cable and each of the connectors you need and do the soldering yourself.
you only need one http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MRSZFN3VTTRTHXTX1PW if you are going to use the headphone output on your desktop.
you dont "need" a dac but it will improve the sound.
I've got a pair of Yamaha HS7 at home and I only use it for listening to music without any studio monitoring purposes, I just like the flat response of it.
So I am currently listening to music in 2 ways:
However; to get a better, more clear and balanced (through XLR inputs of HS7's maybe) sound from HS7's, I think I have to use a better soundcard than the built-in Mac or built-in Logitech adapter. Meanwhile, I also want to continue to listen to music via bluetooth.
So THE QUESTION is, are there any sound cards that has a built-in bluetooth function or is it just impossible/meaningless to use bluetooth if I'm asking for a better quality of sound due to latency, data transmission etc.?
I am not an audio guy, and this is my first professional setup, so I'd be really glad if you can help me out here. I have found a couple mixers that has a bluetooth function such as Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 but I'm not sure if that's what I'm looking for, or if they're any better than the logitech adapter.
Yamaha HS7: https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-HS7-100-Watt-Monitor-Black/dp/B00CFOXHGS/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1486638385&sr=1-3&keywords=yamaha+hs7
CMP-159: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486638237&sr=8-1&keywords=cmp+159
Logitech Bluetooth Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486638259&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+bluetooth+audio+adapter
I'm using a CMP-159 cable that splits 1/8" TRS to left and right 1/4" TS to the speakers. I can hear a hiss if I bring my ears right up to the tweeter. I'm hoping the 2i2 will eliminate that and also make it easier to switch between computer audio and my turntable (LP-60).
For an iPad (or anything with a standard headphones-style 3.5mm output jack) you would need a 3.5mm stereo cable that splits two mono 1/4" plugs. Simply plug them into the Line In L/R plugs on one of the other available channels on your mixer.
You can find this cable on Amazon 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS or get one at any electronics store. Guitar Center also carries them.
My thoughts exactly...
With $360 you can get
the updated version of these speakers + isolation pads + wires
Or buy some red speakers lol
Stereo info is coming out of the Volca, so it won't sound the same as if you plugged your headphones into it. What you need is a stereo breakout cable (such as https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6, for a low-quality example). If you only have one audio input then your method works to make two tracks of audio, but it won't sound the same, or as good imo, as recording the Volca in stereo.
The correct cable 3.5 stereo to dual 1/4 mono.. like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
Then plug one of the 1/4 into your interface. The other end doesn't need to be plugged in since the kick has no stereo features. 3.5 to 3.5 stereo or rca will work as well.
3.5 stereo to one 1/4 mono summed is not correct and can cause issues. this cable is not correct
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D
3.5 to 1/4 trs will not work on mono input devices either. this cable is not correct for mono input devices
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-105-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35
Alright thanks for replying! Would like to clarify that I'm using this only for consuming music or movies on my PC, not producing/editing music. Would you recommend the Solo too in this case?
​
What would be the advantages of getting the DAC you've recommended VS plugging directly into my PC (with Creative® Sound Core 3D chip on motherboard)?? With these cables for example https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6?pldnSite=1
​
Would there be less hissing/noise using external DAC? And in terms of sound quality, does it make a difference?
If you get passive bookshelf speakers, you'd need an amp. For your computer (and to save space), a powered monitor would work well (meaning the amp is built into the speaker, itself). They don't get much better than this for the price, $410 a pair http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR308-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00E8CEW7I ; they perform well, well above their price range and you don't need to buy another amplifier. Hook them up with either of these cables: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CYX-402M-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068OEO or http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
A DAC isn't absolutely necessary unless you're getting noise out of your computer's aux port and/or unhappy with its sound in general. Try it and see if you need a DAC.
As for spending more, you can always spend more in the world of speakers. For a computer/nearfield setup, you don't get much better than the KEF LS50 for $1500 a pair: http://www.amazon.com/KEF-LS50-Mini-Monitor-Gloss/dp/B00EPDMDZ8
However it lacks some low end and it needs an amp, so be prepared to spend more.
My favorite speaker at the moment is the Ascend Sierra 2: http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/SRM2/srm2.html They are simply amazing; ribbon tweeters are the real deal and its RAAL ribbon tweeter is arguably the best thing out there in its price range.
Hey, check out the JBL LSR305 and 3.5mm TRS to 6.3mm TS cable. Cheers!
I recabled my Grados with one of these by clipping off the 1/4 inch ends and soldering to the drivers in the headphones. There is way more length there than you need which leaves you options and the cable is nice and thick. I used a couple of layers of heat shrink tubing to secure the Y split.
Your question is pretty confusing. Apparently you are using a computer monitor to play your PlayStation on and want to use Yamaha HS-5 studio monitors as speakers?
Yes you can send audio to the computer monitor through the HDMI cable. You don't say which monitor you are using, but apparently it has a 3.5mm output. What i think you need is a stereo 3.5mm to dual 1/4" or XLR cable. This will split the output to a left and right cable you can plug into your speakers. [Something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6) I don't think you even need to use the audiobox because the speakers are powered and amplify on their own.
I've always used the more old school route of passive speakers and receivers or separate amp/preamps, so I'm not expert on this, but I think a cable with 2 male 1/4" TS or XLR to a 3.5mm TRS would do it. like this though it appears out of stock right now. If the sound card in your computer isn't great, there are lots of recommendations on here about pretty reasonable DACs to get that could help in that regard.
These are active speakers, meaning they are each powered by an amp in the speaker cabinet. Traditionally, most speakers are passive, so you need an external amp to get any sound out of them. A receiver is just an amp with other features added, to put it in the most simple terms possible.
It has a DAC/AMP built in. The DAC converter is better than the DAC on your motherboard. You don’t need the interface though. You can just plug directly from the 3.5mm jack from your PC into each monitor. Using a cable like this. Plug the red into the right TRS speaker input and the white into the left TRS speaker input. An interface is just the optimal way to use the monitors. But it’s much more expensive as you need to buy the interface as well as the cables.
A mixer is the most straightforward way to go. A USB mixer is the same thing as a non-USB mixer (usually), it just has a sound card built into that you can use instead of the computer’s sound card. In your case, since you have two computers to route through the mixer, at least one of them will need to use the normal analog channels regardless since the USB interface can only be used by one computer at a time.
If you decide not to go with a USB mixer, pretty much any mixer than has two “stereo” input channels will work. If you decide to go with a USB mixer, find one that has at least one additional “stereo” input channel aside from the USB input channel.
I would stay away from routing sound through one of the computers. It adds unnecessary complication, and will almost certainly degrade sound quality. The bulk of the audio problem you experienced earlier though was from a line-level and mic-level mismatch. Simply put, mic inputs expect much lower power than line inputs, and line output send way too much power for a mic input. Even the lowest volume level of a line output will overwhelm a mic input. It’s actually more complicate than this, but that’s accurate enough.
Edit: for a dead-simple solution, this will work: https://www.guitarcenter.com/Yamaha/MG06X-6-Channel-Mixer-1391442168077.gc
Along with two of these cables, one for each computer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HGM1D6/
If you're plugging into the gamepad, you would just need something like this:
Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet
From computer, connect mini-USB cable to back of Fiio E10K. Then from Fiio E10K connect from line-out to back of JBLs (it's a 3.5mm stereo jack on the back of the Fiio E10K, you'll need a cable that goes frmo 3.5mm to quarter inch phone cables, like this.
That's all there is to it!
This is a situation where you would want an extra output on your interface. But you can make it work, sort of. Use two of these to get audio to and from your monotron/interface.
The thing is, you need to make sure that you don't send the delayed signal back into the output of your interface, or else you are going to get nasty feedback and kill your ears. So you're not going to be able to listen to it while you record. But I guess you could get a headphone splitter for the output of the montron, and use one for headphones and one to send audio to your interface. It may effect sound quality/volume- I've never tried.
Do you have any kind of recording interface? (e.g. Sapphire 2i2) there's tons out there. You need an audio input on your computer to take audio from the headphone out on the volca. The audio interface will serve as this input. Plugging a 3.5mm TRS cable directly into your mic input on your computer is probably not advisable since mic inputs are generally mono.
Sound is not transferred through midi. Midi is simply control information.
P.s. The volca headphone out is 3.5mm stereo (but outputs a mono signal) so you need a cable that has 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 inch TS
Like these: http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-CMP-110-Mono-Interconnect-3-5mm/dp/B000068O3D?th=0
Alternatively, some people use these:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
;)
Do you have any equipment already? What outputs do you have on your computer?
If you just have a 3.5mm headphone jack, you can use some cords like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
It may not work well, depending on how how loud (static-y) your pc is. But it will work.
The next level up would be to get an audio interface; the Scarlett Focusrite is a popular brand for this. This interface hooks up to your PC through USB, and has outputs that are designed for monitors like the 305P.
I'm not sure if you know, but this JBL is an active studio monitor. It's main use is for people mixing music, who want a consistent sound. Some people just use it to listen to music, but many consider passive speakers to be better for home use. Have you looked at your options?
I have the 502 module. Does the 500 module have L/R direct output? If so, I’ve used a dual quarter-inch to single eighth-inch cable going directly from the L/R jacks to the microphone jack in the computer, and it sounds perfect.
If not, the best I could recommend is to maybe buy a better guitar cable, as I don’t know the ins and outs of recording through the headphone jack.
I haven't heard that sub but it appears to be designed to go with the 305s so they should sound great together.
Both the speakers and the sub take trs or xlr in so to connect them up to a PC you would need a stereo 3.5mm to trs converter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483256305&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Trs&dpPl=1&dpID=41xj746I2QL&ref=plSrch). That would go from the jack on the back of the motherboard to each speaker with no sub or into the sub inputs then from the sub outputs to the speakers using just straight trs or xlr cables. You would need the same cable for surrounds but you would skip the sub and go straight into the speakers.
I'm making an assumption here, but I bet what you've got is a stereo splitter (i.e. for headphones) that is trying to feed a stereo signal to both speakers. Powered monitors usually have a balanced input on them, which uses the same (1/4" TRS) connector as a stereo unbalanced cable. Meaning whats happening here is both speakers are playing the same channel because left and right haven't been separated.
What you need is a breakout (or insert) cable like this. This will separate left and right signals onto two plugs. This is an unbalanced cable, but it really shouldn't matter in this case.
Nah just these.
No point in using TRS since the Origen does not have any balanced TRS outputs
How would I connect the TRS 1/4 from the interface to PC. I tried researching it but there isn't much explanation. Would these work?
My new JBL 306p mkII have static to them when not playing any audio
I have them hooked up with TRS to 3.5mm to my rear audio io on my computer.
These are the exact ones I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Any recommendations on fixing it? I do have it near some power cords, would that affect it?
The process is way less complicated than you think.
You didn't mention which model of those speakers you have, but it looks like they all have 1/4" mono inputs. To use those connections you'll need an 1/8" stereo mini plug to dual mono 1/4" plug cable (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419459816&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=31EXSYIMpUL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40)
As for you computer outputs, you'll want to use the headphone or L/R channel jack (typically green and labeled with a headphone symbol). Configure your sound mixer software to output 2 channel stereo. There is also a good chance it will default to stereo output with something connected to the stereo output jack.
This is the best explanation I can give without more details about the specific equipment.
I think someone like this
The 1/4 inch sides would go into your mp11 outputs and the RCA would plug into your amp.
Use this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR201-Dual-Cable-3-25/dp/B000068O16/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1323591814&sr=1-5
You don't need TRS, TS (tip/sleeve) will be just fine. You are coming out of the mixer with only 2 wires, you would short the ring to the sleeve anyway with proper wiring practices.
Get a RCA to 1/4" stereo cable, like this http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000068O16
sorry i was looking up scarlett 18i20, not scarlett solo.
yes find RCA to 1/4" cables like these https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-Cable-CPR201-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O16/ref=asc_df_B000068O16/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293003920492&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10072924409480471477&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001598&hvtargid=pla-442288092897&psc=1
looks like the solo has the same output bus for the headphone amp and monitor outputs (one volume control for both). the rest of my reply still applies (don't use headphone outputs for speakers!)
i think ima go with the Monoprice Desktop DAC/amp with these cables
thanks for the help
edit: these were 70 instead of 100 just a month ago :/
Dual TS to RCA:
>Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/
Then this is what you probably need. The TRS (big headphone jacks) will plug into the middle of your front inputs on your Scarlett. Pan the left input to the left channel and the right one right, and your in business.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16
a DAC or not depends on your Motherboard. I'd try it without a DAC first and hear for yourself if you need one.
If you need a DAC, you'll most likely need an RCA to 1/4 which will Connect the DAC to your Current AMP.
With the turn table as well and assuming you have the Yamaha HS8 sub to go with the HS5's, I would go simple.
This to mix the two together:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/331962-REG/Rolls_MX42_MX42_Mini_Stereo_Mixer.html
2 RCA Y Splitters for the Output:
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=663
Then 2 of these (so 4 total RCA to 1/4"):
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16
2 for the sub L/R and 1 for each speaker.
The outputs are either balanced or unbalanced depending on whether you use ring-tip or ring-tip-sleeve plugs. For the SMSL amplifier, you would need a dual 1/4-inch to RCA adapter cable.
Hope this helps!
Yup, it's USB Type B. To plug from the Pre Amp to the interface, you'd need RCA to 1/4inch cables. I used these to make the connection.
Here are some amp/DAC recommendations from the sidebar, and here are some from another reviewer on reddit. Since the 305s are powered you don't need an amp, just a standalone DAC. You will also probably need an appropriate cable since most DACs have RCA outputs instead of XLR/TRS you might find on an audio interface.
I have a Yamaha RX-V473 receiver and the JBL LSR305 monitors. How can I connect them to get audio out of my monitors while using a PS4?
I recently purchased a cable (link below) but unfortunately it doesn't work as the A/V Out ports on the receiver weren't intended for that kind of connection according to the user manual. Looks like they were meant for output to a video recording device. It appears I MUST connect the monitors to the Speaker ports which accept speaker wire or banana plugs only. I'd love to not buy any more cables but not sure that is possible. Could I strip the insulation off the TS to RCA cable and connect that way?
Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kxmwxbJ4K6B8A
Would this cable work?
HOSA SPEAKER CABLE, 16AWG x2, 1/4" PHONE - BANANA PLUG, 3 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O5L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mKmwxbP6ZD5JN
These will do the trick both in and out.
Something like this? Found that with a quick Google Search for "RCA Male to 1/4 inch Male".
The Mackie CR4s are competent, good value monitors.
You can plug your computer speakers into the Duo-Capture using a suitable adapter. If you've got an old hi-fi, you could also use it with this cable.
That sub picture is terrible. Are the RCA jacks inputs? I can't read the label on them. But that little Philips box is not a real sub; I doubt it goes any lower than the JBLs. It's a small cheap woofer. Don't bother using it. You can connect the sub by splitting the RCA outs from the console, but that won't let you filter the bass to the JBLs to prevent them from overlapping frequencies with the sub, and it probably is much less accurate than the JBLs anyway.
You'll need cables like these to connect the JBLs to your console:
https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/
That price is for one speaker and not a pair. It's a studio monitor so they have very accurate sound that some people don't like because bad recordings will sound bad. Also you'd also need a cable like this. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17
Edifier makes a wide range of powered speakers that are highly recommended on this sub.
Well, my scarlett 2i2 only has 1/4 ports, so will i need to get a product like http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17 this?
Well, you only have optical audio out, i don't know if your TV's remote controls the volume of this output or not, but hopefully it does. what you need is a DAC for optical audio, something like the Fiio D3 would probably do just fine (and could be powered by one of the USB ports on the TV) then you just need a pair of RCA to TRS cables like this connecting the a5+ would be pretty much the same, just use normal RCA cables instead of RCA to TRS
You could get a RCA>1/4" or RCA>XLR adaptor and use it with pretty much any USB interface.
Your DAC has stereo RCA connectors so you would need a RCA-to-1/4 inch TS patch cable. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17
For the Nobsound you'll need this to go from your PC to the Nobsound unit. Find a length that works for you, any wire with decent reviews is fine as long as it's 3.5mm to RCA. From the Nobsound to speakers, you'll need these. Again, find a length that works for you.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381808216&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F4%22+to+RCA
It's just that easy, you'll want to make sure your gain structure is soft on the receive and heavier on the send, since these units tend to be a bit noisy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O17/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511607515&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=1%2F4+to+rca&dpPl=1&dpID=41WNUsmewNL&ref=plSrch
Would need more details to help further about setup.
>Is there any guide on the first method you mentioned?
Your Behringer UMC22 has what looks like a 6.35 mm line level input, and a 6.35 mm instrument level input. If those are both line-level inputs, to get output from your CD player into that, you'll need a couple mono RCA to 6.35 mm cables (whatever brand/length is fine):
https://www.amazon.com/d/RCA-Cables/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/B000068O17/
You may need to configure those inputs in software.
If the inputs on the Behringer aren't both line level inputs, as in if the mic input is only a mic level input, you may need to figure out how to undo phantom mic power into input 1, and/or involve a DI box for input 2. (At that point, you've spent around 3-4 x the price of an external CD drive on new audio equipment.) Check your Behringer product manual to be sure.
Hopefully you'll be able to use the included or other software to fade and/or pan those channels appropriately into the original stereo mix. The audio production subreddits would be able to provide detailed guidance for that.
I do not recommend going the route described above if there are any other options.
You might want to check if your MBP or an included/optional dongle has a 3.5 mm optical or stereo audio input. If so, you could grab the digital signal directly from the CD player, or get analog stereo without the mess of the UMC22.
Your preamp has RCA jacks and the speaker has XLR and 1/4" TRS. Your best bet is probably RCA to 1/4". Like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O17/ref=pd_aw_fbt_267_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H8FY2K4285TM0N3041QE.
I guess the first question is what's the game audio source? Are you using a console or are you emulating on the PC?
I assume if you have a console you're using some kind of capture device so the game content can get to your PC.
If that's the case you have to split off the audio before you hit your capture box and go into the mixer. The red and white RCAs would probably be the quickest solution so get 2 f-f RCA splitters and then a dual RCA - TRS cable and patch into the line in or aux ins on your console.
If you're capturing over HDMI you might have to experiment and see if the console will also output audio seperately over the RCA jacks or if your capture box can split the audio from the signal. HDMI audio stripping is a pain in the ass and the boxes that do it cost money.
If you're emulating on the streaming PC you're much better off continuing to software mix. You could get a software mixer and then an interface to break out of the PC to run back into the mixer but that's going to add noise and cost more money than you need to spend.
I had some serious trouble finding a back-facing shot, and the specifications on tascam's website arent very specific, but according to this image: http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?id=attach:90:1520:0:1 it looks like a RCA output (I have one on my behringer) and if so, the cheapest would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18 I got a similar product at guitar center and it works fine. There are also boxes you can get to balance the signal from the unbalanced RCA, but if you're on a budget, it should be fine.
Edit: also. This http://estaticos2.milanuncios.com/fg/1975/16/otros-instrumentos-musicales/Tarjeta-sonido-TASCAM-US-144-197516878_4.jpg definitely looks like an RCA
Wow you are so helpful, thank you.
So I think I've found a way that will work that involves less pieces. I cross posted this question in r/iphone here. The comments led me to this potential set up:
From my XDJ-RX's dual 1/4 TRS output, I'm going to have this male TS to male RCA cable going into the RCA input ports on the Behringer UCA202 (or UCA222), and then I will have that plug into the Apple Camera Connection Kit via USB, and then that goes into my phone. And THAT should get me a stereo signal.
Does that sound right to you? I'm like 95% sure that plugging two TS plugs into two TRS jacks (on the XDJ-RX) will only reduce the connection to unbalanced, but keep it stereo.
But it's good to know that if this setup doesn't work, the one that you suggested will. Finally this is all starting to make sense!
Here you go
Sorry if this is a silly question but would upgrading the Modi just allow it to do the same thing as my current modi but also act as a pre amp? Can you recommend a decent set of speaker stands?
I ordered the pre amp so we got that down.
Now I just want to make sure I've got it straight.
I need these cables for the speakers and these cables for the pre amp
One last question is how do I connect the stack to each other as the Modi 2 and Magni 2 only have one spot where you can plug in RCA cables and they run into each other. Would I just unplug the amp when I want to use my speakers?
All you need is a bunch of cables like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18. Plug them from your synths into the CD or Line inputs. No need to over complicate anything. Good luck!
Use this coming off of the left (or right, but people typically use left) channel. Then run one rca to your left HS5 and the other to your subwoofer.
Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/
Then look up some tutorials on YouTube for setting up OBS Studio.
If you want to play on a separate TV while you record (which I'd probably recommend), get one of these as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010EIK6K6/
You'll also need some male-to-male RCA cables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07846GW8H/
If you want to split the NES' mono audio to both channels: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/
Man you have a fairly dysfunctional system in that a lot of the things meant to minimize the setup are broken. With that said. Some options I thought of are:
Option a:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JYB93G Cheapest DAC you can buy. $16
https://www.amazon.com/VONOTO-Switcher-Toslink-Splitter-Converter/dp/B00PZKA5E6/ for switching between toslinks $14
https://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I/ To connect the powered monitors to the subwoofer, you can use these with the splitters below.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y x 2
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-feet-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00DI89IQS $10 connects from splitters to subwoofer.
That is the low cost version. You can replace the $16 dac with a micca Origin+ ($110 shipped) and then you'd also have a cost-efficient DAC/PReamp with a volume nob, and ability to switch between input sources and output sources easier. Would also increase audio quality by a bit if your input source isn't too good.
Want to add an equalizer, high pass filters, etc? Look into a Mini DSP 2 x 4. That should take care of those needs. But I don't think it would really be all that necessary. Your call, this is the cheapest way imo to do this.
Best of luck.
> So the line out on the Yamaha is currently occupied by a powered sub. Could I get an aux splitter to connect one end to the powered sub and one to the JVC?
Yes. An RCA splitter like this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y/
> What is the relevance of the Tape Out on the JVC, what can I do with that?
Tape Out was intended to pass a line-level signal to a reel-to-reel magnetic tape recorder, usually immediately before the signal is amplified (so after volume control, and bass and treble filters etc on the integrated amplifier). Tape In is what comes back from the tape recorder and gets amplified directly.
Instead of a tape recorder, some listeners insert an equalizer or other signal processing, but Tape Out can also be split and sent to other components as a line-level input. Some receivers activate Tape Out / Tape In through a TAPE MONITOR button, other receivers have Tape Out / Tape In always on, and simply bridge the Tape Out to the Tape In through a small metal clip.
On your JVC, when you select Phono as your input, and TAPE MONITOR enabled, the RIAA-equalized and volume controlled signal will get sent to the Tape Out jacks, so you could send that to the Yamaha only (using the JVC essentially as a phono pre-amp), or split the Tape Out and send the signal also back to the JVC for amplification and have the sound come out of both amplifiers and all four speakers at once.
Connecting the record player to Tape In or Tape Out ports would not produce enjoyable results since phono signal would not have RIAA equalization applied.
> Will there be any difference in sound apart from the difference in the two sets of speakers (more about delay than quality)?
The signal will be received by the second amplifier slightly after it is received by the first amplifier. Electricity travels through copper cable at between 50% and 75% of the speed of light, which is roughly 300 million m/s. An amplifier adds a few dozen meters to the signal path at most, so there's not a significant difference there.
The speed of sound, however, is roughly 300 m/s, so delay might be noticeable between sets of speakers if they are very far apart relative to your listening position. The wavelength of notes in the 0-20 kHz range are in the 0-20 m range, so speaker placement may affect constructive or destructive interference for speakers on the same channel. These speed and length of sound concerns apply whether the signal is driven by one or multiple amplifiers.
Get two RCA splitters. http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Male-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415031272&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+splitter
One end to the speakers the other to the sub. The sub has to be active.
(I've actually been looking for a pre-amp just like that. Thanks!)
Could I use something like this and use two of them. Have one plugged into the L and one in the R of the Dac. And then connect a one L and R to the headphone amp and the other to the speakers?
These should work also, and a little cheaper.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
I'd use a xbox to vga and get some desktop speakers.
[Xbox to VGA] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002DGPNOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397109267&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40)
[Stereo to aux] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_w-Jrtb0HZJM5C)
[Decent Speakers] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027VT6V4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1397112825&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40)
Yep, you can either connect directly with the optical or RCA out ports on the adaptor, or you get an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor for headphones or stereo speakers.
You'll need female to female, I think, like this http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/
I don’t know about USB headphones but there’s an option to output audio through the analog output so if you have an analog cable (like from a wii) you can use one of these or something like it to adapt that to a 3.5mm headphone jack and just use that instead for your headphones. It’s not USB but it’s the only thing I could think of.
It's not risky; no. It's just the cord.
Here is a youtube demonstration:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FptCB_3DOz4
I'm running this setup right now and it works perfectly. Basically the little adapter trick is saving you however much money it costs to buy the RCA cables that will allow you to plug HDMI in at the same time. Microsoft is just trying to nickle and dime you by putting a little plastic blocker piece on the RCA cable that comes standard with the Xbox. I use this method instead of plugging my headphones into the TV headphone jack; the audio when coming directly from the 360 is a lot higher quality than when it gets normalized/equalized through the TV.
Also, I use an adapter like this to convert the red/white audio cords into a headphone jack:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter-Audio-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_148?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1299531486&sr=1-148
In System Configuration you switch video output from RGB to Y Cb/Pb Cr/Pr, you can do this using the green-colored RCA connector on a TV's video (yellow) composite input.
Audio works as normal, over the red and white RCA connectors. You can use an additional RCA/3.5mm adapter (like this or this for headphones) if your audio setup needs it.
edit:
The VGA end on the adapter cable is female, so you'll also need to have a VGA cable handy unless you're connecting it to an older computer monitor with a built-in VGA cable.
You still got the AV cable that came with your PS3? The one that goes to yellow, white and red?
You'll need a female stereo RCA to female 3.5 mil. Something like this. (should be easy to find dirt cheap).
Connect your AV cable to the AV port, and connect the red and white cable to the red and white ends on the adaptor, and connect your headset's 3.5 mil to the adaptor. If needed, connect your headset to one of the USB ports for power. Then set your PS3 to output audio via the AV port. You can still output video seperatly via HDMI or whatever. If your headset is smart, it'll even mix the game audio and chat audio together, and you'll get the proper PS3 headset experience.
Before you do this though, just double check that your TV/monitor doesn't have a 3.5 mil port you can use. A lot of them will pass whatever audio input out that port and silence the speakers when you connect something. That's probably easier.
You can use this cord and any pair of computer speakers that you may already have
https://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483138962&sr=8-2&keywords=female+rca+to+headphone
You might have to change a setting in the wii u menu to get the sound to output to the audio jacks instead of the hdmi though
Some preamps (such as this one) do have 1/4" outputs, so you could get a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter and plug your computer speakers into that.
According to one review of the Pioneer turntable, it does have a built-in preamp, so it appears that you don't need one. The phono EQ is explained in the section on RIAA equalization in the article that I linked. Since you're probably buying a turntable with a built-in preamp, that means that all you really need is a female RCA to female 1/8" adapter, such as this one.
Manhattan 6 inches Stereo Splitter-3.5mm Jack to 2-RCA Jacks Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uZwWzb009RYND
Is this what he did?
My headphones have adjustable volume. How would that compare to something like this though? https://www.amazon.com/Eeejumpe-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P2G1M8GC9K6E6WTK4MJC
Edit: Actually, scratch that. I'd prefer not having to keep switching the audio cables from the TV to headphones, so the Wii2HDMI converter with headphones that include an adjustable dial seems like the best solution. Appreciate the help!
I have a set of Logitech speakers as well with this set-up. Search eBay for USB 5.1 and you'll find what you need to use it with a computer that plugs into a standard USB port. If you are using an iPod or other similar device, you can use the green plug and it work great as stereo speakers (some can combine front and rear to get a "surround" sound, YMMV.) If you are using it for your TV/video game, you'll need an RCA to 3.5mm converter...which has also been posted in this thread...hope this helps!
AV output under Audio Output settings.
Get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A
enjoy a mess of cables.
maybe there's a USB headset. (never did any research myself)
Amazon
I just used in game audio options to adjust volume.
Edit: This would likely work too.
Try with a couple of speakers if it works, then you can use an adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009JFF7A/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C4R9YDVB7Y1A93NCY0YM&dpPl=1&dpID=41byA3kyGyL
Say to me if works.
I had problems fitting everything into the SCART connector. The monoprice cable is pretty thick in the center with that shielding, there wasn't enough room to cram that cable and the audio cable through that opening. I didn't need these adapters to be very long, my cables already reached, so I ended up using only the unsheiled portions at the end of the cable, removing the thicker middle section. I was able to fit everything in that way.
Soldering to the SCART connector was difficult. It was easy to melt the connector's plastic with the iron. Tinning the SCART pins and the wires helped. I was/am new to soldering and I didn't have flux so I tried without it. I think it would have gone a lot easier with it. I ended up using a lot of solder wick and the solder sucker to redo my work.
You'll also need heatshrink. When you are ready to solder the wires from each color BNC connector you'll need to strip the jacket and expose an inch or so of sheilding. Pull the sheilding away from the inner core and twist it together to form its own wire. Cover this bare wire with heatshrink, leaving only the tip exposed so you can solder it to the proper pin.
Finding faults in the chain was a problem. Everything seemed to work right off the bat, but then I had a console intermittently lose green signal. Trying to figure out where the bad connection was sucked. I had to figure out if it was the RGB mod in the console, the RGB SCART cable, my homemade SCART->BNC input adapter, my homemade BNC->SCART output adapter, or the SCART->XRB-mini adapter. (It was my SCART-BNC input adapter)
Supplies:
6" 4-BNC cable: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=569
Female SCART connectors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PACK-OF-10-VELLEMAN-SCARTF-21-PIN-SCART-PLUGS-FEMALE-/272430948700?
50ft 3 conductor cable: https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=647
Phoenix Audio Plugs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-10-5-pin-3-5mm-Pluggable-Connector-Terminal-Block-Phoenix-Plug-/121223852751?
RCA Y-adapters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JFF7A/
3RCA->3BNC cable: http://www.showmecables.com/product/Python-3-BNC-to-3-RCA-Component-Video-Cable-HDTV-6-FT.aspx
RCA->BNC adapter: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4121
Those last few items were used more with routing YPbPr component video through the Extron.
Diagrams:
http://media.extron.com/download/files/userman/68-349-01__G.pdf
http://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/technical-library/pinouts-wiring-diagrams/scart-wiring/
*edit: formatting
If your headphones use the standard plug, then you need a 2 RCA male 3.5mm female adapter. Here's one with decent reviews from Amazon
I do not know what you have but this
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Coaxial-Toslink-Converter/dp/B007S6U7I4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405136588&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+audio+to+rca+adapter
and you might need this
http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405136677&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+femail+to+3.5mm
What do those RCA plugs AUX on the subwoofer do, are they an input or an output? The two amazon things you'll need, the cable you have won't fit with the green one though, it's all males (you'd need one like this instead this But if those are inputs, you're better off just pugging a straight male to male RCA cable
You need to find a way to hook up the the system using your RCA outs. That might require getting back behind the sound system to swap out the 3.5mm headphone to RCA cable that's already plugged in for a regular RCA to RCA cable. Alternatively, you can snag yourself a cable like this one to go from your controller to the Aux cable of the system.
What's the difference between using the headphone output and the preamp output with a cable like this on my Schiit Vali 2 (on a pair of headphones)?
I believe Zombait is correct, but it can fixed with a simple converter(here). However, with this you'll also need an RCA to 3.5 adapter.
With this set up, you should be able to get stereo in your headphones.
Ok. How about you use your optical out, and grab this with a Toslink (optical) cable.
Edit: Also need this for your 1/4" inputs on the speaker.
Chromecast is a better option - there are well-designed monitors that have their own wifi receiver built-in, but those are significantly smaller and more expensive than the HS8s you are looking at.
Get a 3.5mm to RCA cable to hook up the CCA to a volume controller, and these cables to connect volume controller to these monitors
I just got a UMC204HD and a Schiit Magni 3 from a buddy and have never used something like these before. I have a question regarding what's the difference between these 3 cables when connecting the UMC204HD to the Magni 3.
Disregard the lengths I just want to know how these connections differ in regards to quality of sound and how they differ in regards to how the UMC204HD & Magni 3 communicate.
Thanks!
Okay in that case I would need one of these to go from the MK3 into my computer's output, right? And then this from the MK3 into my Pioneer?
I want to be able to record my computer's output into the MK3 as well as the Pioneer (for things like CDs and Tapes).
There's a switch on the back of the Behringer amp tl pick from stereo or mono. Set it to mono, and both channels will be driven by a single input: Same thing as a Y cable, but with fewer parts.
Your list looks pretty complete, but that XLR cable won't do you much good with a typical receiver unless it also has an XLR output (most are RCA outputs).
The Behringer amp can accept XLR or 1/4" connections. If it were me and my own system, I'd get something like this:
Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cfd8CbWWVZMT4
Split the pair and put half in a drawer for when you get a receiver with multiple subwoofer outputs, or decide to rent some full-range PA speakers to piss off the neighbors with.
Speaking of PA: Handles are glorious things for enormous and heavy boxes. If you can work some into your design, I think you'll be much happier when those monsters inevitably need moved.
Don't apologize! I used to do some sound work on the side in a past life, so this is fun :) I just hope you post a link to one of your shows once all this is done...
Mixers, like any analog equipment, have good models and bad models. Good models will sound great and bad models will sound not so great due to poor quality components and insufficient shielding. Some cheap models are decent, some just suck.
I picked those three because they're all in the Behringer Xenyx line (which you are already familiar with), because they have USB I/O, and because they are cost effective (you don't want to spend a lot when you're just starting out). Behringer is known for making low cost stuff that performs decently if not amazingly well. Certainly you can do better, but it's useful and cheap and not in the realm of 'garbage'.
If you want something a little better, try a Mackie 802VLZ4. Mackie is a better brand, good sound quality, good build quality too, which comes with a matching price tag of $200 for the 802. That would fit your needs nicely- 3x stereo channels, 2 mono channels, and an aux send. Not much room to grow (only one extra mono input) and no sliders, but it'll work well for a long time.
There's also the Mackie 1202VLZ4, for $270 you get 4x stereo channels, 4x mono channels, 2x aux sends. Still no sliders.
Neither of those are USB boards, which means you need another way to get audio into the computer. If your PC's sound card has a blue line-in jack you could use another dual mono 1/4" phono to stereo 3.5mm cable to send the board's output into the computer that way. Otherwise you could use a USB sound interface, most of the ones you'll find on reputable websites are decent, try a Behringer UCA222 for $30. You'll need a dual 1/4" phono to RCA cable to hook that up to the UCA222. If you want to improve audio quality, this is a decent place to do it; most computer onboard sound cards are pretty crappy so any decent USB interface (including the UCA222) or a dedicated quality PCI sound card will be better.
------
If it were me- and keep in mind this reflects my mindset- I wouldn't worry about the tech stuff much now, because attracting an audience and keeping them is harder than making sound work. Going from decent sound to great sound won't do a huge amount for the success of my channel, especially when starting out.
IMHO, the biggest challenge to starting a stream channel is building the audience. I can control the sound, and I can throw money at quality hardware, but I can't control whether people will watch my show or not. And I don't know if the channel is going to be in any way successful, or if I'm going to do 20 shows and get 3 viewers and then decide to spend my time on something else.
So if it were me, I'd get that cheap 4-way 3.5mm switcher and for the moment make it work with the Q802USB mixer I already have. Or I'd do an ugly ghettosplice, just use Y-splitters to plug the Xbox and PS4 into the same stereo channel, and only turn on one at a time.
This wouldn't sound as good as a Mackie setup, but it would work and it'd be cheap.
Then I'd start streaming and focus on building an audience and getting subscribers and whatnot.
Then once I'd been streaming for a while, I'd have a better idea of what kind of show I'm putting on and thus what kind of capability I want to have.
For example, I might want some kind of simple background music that I can easily fade in and out without pausing the game. I might have guests that call in via Skype or a phone, and want to adjust their volume separately. I might have some kind of dual mashup stream where I host myself and my buddy playing on the same team. Depending on what people like watching me play, I might end up only streaming one or two games (thus not needing both consoles). etc etc. Or the whole thing might totally flop and I might get bored of it, in which case I don't want to have wasted $500 on mixers and adapters and cables that I'll never use again.
You'll only know the answer to these questions after you've been at it a while. So my suggestion is get from where you are now (mucking about with audio cables) to a published stream as efficiently and cheaply as you can, especially since you already have a mixer, and then improve your setup as your channel grows.
Now you already have the most important component- a decent microphone. All the mixers in the world won't help if you are feeding them shitty audio from a shitty mic. The one thing I would tell any streamer is spend $40 on a decent microphone (that's NOT part of a headset), but you're already there. The rest is details.
would you happen to know what cable will I need to buy to connect my two jbls to the BIC America F12 when i buy it? Unless the BIC already comes with the cables necessary. My monitors will already be plugged in my motherboard via y splitter
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16 - would a wire like that be sufficient? i heard something about one of my HOSA y splitter cables going into an RCA into the subwoofer or whatever.
and yeah...im pretty sure i would've honestly been happy with any of the purchases, wheter it be an a5+ or a JBL. after all...this is merely my entry into the audiophile world. in a future upgrade i'll probably spend at least a grand on speakers.
so here's the setup starting with the mixer plug the rca end of [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR201-Dual-Cable-3-25/dp/B000068O16) into the tape out of the mixer the 2 quarter inch ends go into the center of each of the xlr inputs on this (they double as quarter inch inputs) make sure left and right don't get mixed up of course. That interface is then linked to my computer using a usb cable i set the input on an audio track in ableton for the focusrite in's and record away. Hope this helps!
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16
Since the speakers include the amp, and they're expecting a line-level signal, you can just get an input switcher, or build one yourself if you feel crafty.
Edit: you might needs a set of TRS to RCA cables for the HS5, my monitors have an RCA in, forgot that others don't.
computer (USB) > MODI 2 (RCA OUT) > (RCA IN) SYS (RCA OUT) > (quarter inch in) LSR308s.
You'll need one of these https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16
And one of these: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1504640746&sr=1-3&keywords=rca
I'm using them with JBLs hahaha, using this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dS5WCbZCY4S82
It depends on the mixer, but generally the outputs on offer are XLR, 1/4", and RCA. I'm not sure if the H4N Pro is any different, but I'm fairly sure the XLR input on the H4N is a mic level input and you're better off connecting to the H4N with a 1/4" connector into the combo port. Buy a selection of cables that have XLR, 1/4", and RCA at one end and 1/4" at the other for your Zoom.
For example, and RCA cable to 1/4" might look like this.
This would give you two 1/4" connections to connect your Zoom and potentially have two different input levels, though from memory, the H4N has decent auto-levels.
Here's the cable I purchased (quite awhile ago, actually, probably time to buy a new one!)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O16
It says it's unbalanced. I did some Googling and I don't understand if it's possible to have a balanced audio cable to connect between my devices? The Scarlette has 1/4 outputs, and the amplifier has the dual rca input. Any cable recommendations would be awesome..
Here ya go, dual 1/4 to dual RCA
Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA
Turntable to MPC record input
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O16/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have tried TRS to TRS (forgot to mention in the post) with the Scarlett Solo. Still no difference in sound quality with the computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O16/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
This would be the correct wires for monitor to the Scarlett Solo right?
From your DAC -> TS to RCA cable
https://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/
You'd need TRS/TS to RCA cables going from your interface(line out) to amp. link
Sure no problem! If you just want a line-level output from the receiver (before the audio signal goes through the volume and tone controls) you could connect a stereo RCA to 1/4" cable to the tape out jacks.
A pioneer mixer (assuming you are talking about a DJM) has RCA inputs. You can get cables to adapt from your interface's 1/4" output to the RCA input of the DJM. I bought one of these a few months ago for use in a live show. Worked great.
No on the cord. that's stereo 1/8" to 2 mono 1/4"
You will need RCA MALE TO 1/4" MONO MALE.
That volume controller should work fine.
TT -> RCA M to RCA M -> Inline Level controller -> RCA M to 1/4 MALE -> Speakers
>Is there a way to route the TV to my sound card for it to output to my monitors?
Why are you trying to route the TV to a computer soundcard?
What kind of sound output does the TV have? Does it have RCA out? I can't tell from LG's website what kind of audio out it has. If it has RCA out and you want to listen to the TV through the speakers just buy a set of these cables to connect to the sub, as I imagine the TV has RCA outs.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_2
Then get two XLR cables and connect the monitors to the sub.
If you want to listen to the computer's sound through the TV, are you using HDMI? If so the above solution will work. If not, you may want a $40 audio mixer that has 1/4" outs to go into the sub.
Let me know if I am completely misunderstanding you're problem.
The absolute cheapest setup that I can think of to record the Krome would be a Behringer UCA202 audio interface and Reaper for a DAW. Get a dual 1/4" to RCA cable - something like this and you should be in business. 1/4 end to the keyboard, RCAs to the interface. USB for MIDI (to record notes - the cable mentioned in a comment above will do nicely). Should give you a pretty simple way to record the keyboard, although Reaper can be a bit confusing to set up. That said, it's cheap, has an unrestricted free trial, and is extremely powerful.
Now, this won't give you much in the way of room to grow if you decide to start a collection, but it should get the job done.
Good catch! I actually have this bad boy lying around, will that work despite it being stereo?
Thanks again!
RCA - 1/4" Adapter
RCA - 1/4" Cable
Stereo RCA to TRS. XLR offers no benefit without a balanced output, so you might as well use 1/4". I use a Hosa brand 3.5mm to TRS on my LSR305's and their quality is top notch for this price.
http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_?ie=UTF8&refRID=00ZEHJB28QVA5HH77V45
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX28-Mini-Mix-VI/dp/B0002CZQJ6/ref=pd_cp_MI_3
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_text_z Times 3
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1A2VT6HEN2RHR2SAHW4V
Let's see, that's $9.47, plus $24.18, plus $66.99, plus $73.45, plus $126.99 = $293.02 presuming you have your old PS3 cables.
Spend the extra $50.01 - you won't regret it. If you can't possibly do it, then substitute the Pioneers with Micca MB42X's at $79.95 dropping the total to $245.98
http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2
That would leave you with $5 for beer.
EDIT: Sorry I have to take that beer away. I forgot you need to get your PS3 audio to the mixer. Add one more 1/4" to RCA cable for $8.06 more.
The phono preamp will give you RCA line level outputs. You would connect it to your interface the same way you would with an electronic keyboard. You could use an RCA to 1/4” TS cable like this:
Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 2 Meters
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17
> I have a feeling my issue is the usage of the conversion cable
Spot on. The way you have it set up now, you are combining two channels into one balanced input. That's not at all how it should be. You want to:
a) Get two RCA-TS cables (or a 2xRCA to 2xTS cable). Basically, buy this.
b) Turn +48v off (why on earth would you want to send +48v dc to your turntable?)
c) Plug one TS into the left line in and one into the right.
d) Put both inputs to "mic/line"
Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494908495&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+to+trs
Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
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I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC204HD-BEHRINGER/dp/B00QHURLCW/
They record up to 192 kHz and 24 bit audio which is more than enough for any analog format.
If your receiver has tape outputs just connect them to the 2 XLR inputs on the interface with something like these: https://www.amazon.com/d/RCA-Cables/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/B000068O17/
here you go.
as /u/John2nhoj already stated, the LP60 has a built in phono pre. Connect with this cable and you're set.
Bear in mind you should use the shortest possible cable length on this one, though, as it's unbalanced and you could introduce unwanted noise with long cable runs. If you can make the 3 or 6 foot version work you're set.
Yes. The MP11SE has 1/4 audio inputs that that mixes with the MP11SE audio. You should hear it in the the headphones. It has it's own volume fader.
If your computer has 1/8 stereo output you'll need a 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable like this. A phone or MP3 player would use that.
If your computer has RCA phono line outputs then you'll need two RCA phono to 1/4" TS cables like this pair. Note they might come as a pair or individually.
Computer goes USB to SDAC. SDAC goes RCA to 305s using this cable.
You'll either need to get a pre-amp or adjust your volume using your computer.
You other option is to buy a Micca Origen G2. That's a DAC with a built in pre-amp. if you get the Origen, you would need this cable.
The monitors you have will accept unbalanced input too. As an example, if you needed to connect to a phone or computer headphone jack to these monitors, you would use something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
For devices with RCA output (e.g. CD player), use something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/d/RCA-Cables/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/B000068O17/
The mic is plugged into the Mic 1 spot on the mixer with the XLR cable. I have mixer connected to the audio interface with these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr03BbEV9PYV5
And then the interface plugs into the pc via USB
Going to order two right now. Thank you so much for the help. Really appreciate the fast and detailed answers. btw do you think these will do? https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499890279&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+trs
Im not sure if those are two separate pairs or..
I bought one of these years ago and I will never sell it. The vibes tone is so nice and glassy, especially when you add a bit of reverb to it.
If you haven't sorted out the output yet grab one of these babies.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/ref=lp_597546_1_9?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1418308444&sr=1-9
I'd just like to let everyone know that a solution has been found to my problem. It works perfectly...
Someone told me to buy one of these...
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/
And on the mixer... Plug the RCA ends into the USB IN slots... and the 1/4'' ends into the MAIN OUT slots like this...
http://i.imgur.com/QNJ8vNj.jpg
It works perfectly... I can hear my own voice in my headset, I can hear all the audio from my PC including my friends on Skype, and they can hear me over Skype as well.
The only gotcha is... I have to keep "TO PHONES" pressed, and "TO MAIN MIX" up. When I'm talking to my friends on Skype and I press "TO MAIN MIX" they hear themselves and get some wicked feedback. I'll just simply never hit that, as I have no need to.
So all my equipment is coming within a week. I just want to make sure I buy all the cables I need. From my turntable to the preamp will be the RCA cables. Then I would use these to connect the preamp to my JBL-LSR305. Then I would like to use these to connect to my phone or laptop to the speakers. What else would I need? Would you guys also recommend adding a RCA level controller to control the volume? Thank You.
They have instrument cable hookups... I think something like this (just the first one I found) should work but... can the DAC adjust the volume of the rca out?
Thank you for the reply, i really appreciate it. Is there a benefit to connecting my dac amp to my speakers? Which cable should I buy to connect to the output of my lyr 2?
will this work?: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502922936&sr=1-1&keywords=jbl+305
Don't understand if you understand the wiring?
In a common scenario, you would need two of these from the pc's in to two channels, and this or this.
What kind of speakers do you have?
And for the headset, the adapter is a 3,5mm to 6,3mm which costs a couple of dollars.
Laptop and iPhone. No more than a single output. When I was considering the SVS SB1000s, I got this response from /u/Umlautica:
>You should connect your source directly to the SVS SB-1000 RCA Line In and then use the SB-1000 RCA Line Out to the XLR or 1/4" input on the LSR305.
> You can use a cable like this RCA->1/4" between the sub and speakers.
I'd recommend using a DAC and an RCA to 1/4 inch adapter cable. You could use your onboard audio with Amazon's suggested cable, but it's generally recommended to avoid onboard audio if possible.
That makes sense, thanks for breaking it down. Would there be a way to handle control of the volume with that? For example, would there be a device I could put between the PC and the sub that would control the overall volume? Or is it the case where each speaker/sub has their own volume control that I present on the device, then I use the software volume on the computer to control it?
EDIT:
So It would be:
so is it possible somewhere is there to put a volume knob to control everything or is it best to regulate that from the PC?
That build takes the price to around $600 ish probably after the cables.
I have heard of a build that used something like the Polk Audio PSW10 + Micca's. Is that a viable build I could do for less, or would the price of what connects the two bring the total cost of the system into a similar price bracket?
Also do the JBL's have both a sub and tweeter in them each already? Is a separate sub just needed for very specific use cases? If that is the case, I may just be fine with that already. Thanks again?
What inputs do you have? It'll be Mono 1/4" to RCA to what ever you can capture.
No preamp needed. There are two mono (L/R) 1/4" outputs. so just make sure you have a cable to get both channels recorded (I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478984046&sr=8-5&keywords=stereo+hosa+cable)
If you just have a regular soundcard with a 1/8inch input jack, I think you could use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478984046&sr=8-1&keywords=stereo+hosa+cable
Or you can just use the headphone out, which is just a 1/4" stereo out.
Yes, your adapter will work for the computer audio.
And your piano in stereo will be nice! Just need the correct cable. Assuming the piano has Left and Right outputs on TS cables, this one will do ya:
Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 2 Meters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IZaQCbMH85MAD
I don't own the BX5, but i'm guessing it has 1/4" jacks so you should be good with that.
Only pain is going to be controlling the volume, you will have to do it from the input device. (BX5, similar to the KRK monitors I own, have volume control per speaker on the back, which makes it inconvenient to adjust)
I personally have never used this, but it might be worth trying -
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-RLC-Remote-Level-Control/dp/B002EEP3WA/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1369926618&sr=8-18&keywords=volume+control
(I just searched for volume control, or line level volume control)
http://www.amazon.com/TC-780LC-Stereo-Booster-BLACK-VERSION/dp/B000RZXAHI/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369926740&sr=1-7&keywords=line+level+volume+control this might be cool, don't really know.
you will then need http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR202-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O17/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369926629&sr=8-2&keywords=RCA+to+1+4
There is also some cables for iphones that output rca. Things might be different now, but if I remember correctly the way the sound was routed to the headphone jack was actually different than the output from the apple connector thingy.
You might be able to find a iphone dock that has RCA output and volume control. I saw this one http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PIDOCK1-Universal-Docking-Charging/dp/B0056IB3DY/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1369927022&sr=8-9&keywords=iphone+dock+rca looks kinda crappy though.
volume coming out of your normal PC sound card will probably sound fine. A cheap (sub $20) usb soundcard might make all the difference if your soundcard isn't so hot.
Hey guys, I'm looking to expand from mixing with headphones and getting some studio monitors for my setup.
I use FL Studio\Ableton to produce, and these are the monitors\DAC I plan on grabbing. Pretty entry level stuff, but they are well reviewed. Am I missing anything or should these pieces do the trick?
PreSonus Eris E4.5 2-Way Powered Studio Monitors
My pioneer also only has RCA out, so I run RCA to 1/4” to my mixer, then
XLR1/4” to XLR from my mixer to my speakers.If you don't have a pro studio, get the KRK 5's rather than the larger models. Be aware that the 5 and 6 lack a bit of bass response, but if you have another setup with a sub to test on you should be fine.
This was recommended to me as a good USB sound device to hook up a pair of monitors. I ordered one and it's currently in transit. It seems to be a good price and quality.
For cables, with this particular device, I got an RCA + 1/4 inch stereo cable. The RCA goes into the USB device's output, the 1/4 inch into the KRK's input. Balanced or unbalanced shouldn't matter if you aren't stretching cables beyond just a desk setup. Be aware that high-polling device, mainly mice, may cause noise if they get close to your cables though.
I know little about MIDI keyboards, but I've heard good things about Oxygen and Axiom. I'd say go with 49 keys.
Also, passing on advice here: When starting your system, turn your monitors on last, after your computer, with the volume on the back all the way down, then turn them up and use. When you are ready to shut down, turn the volume all the way down on the back and then power the monitors off first, then your computer. In other words, monitors are last on, and first off.
I was given this turntable, and I'm trying to connect it to my audio interface (focusrite 2i2) so that I can listen to records through my monitors (yamaha hs5)
This is the back of the turntable. https://imgur.com/a/Olla7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O17/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Would that cable work from the turntable output to the focusrite inputs? Or would I need to have a phono pre amp in between?
Well as I figure the OT has basic amp jack for audio inputs (1/4”). HOSA makes most all combinations you can think of for good price. Check the link below, assuming the record player has RCA outputs, you can just plug directly from the record player to the OT.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O17/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523832352&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rca+to+1%2F4+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41WNUsmewNL&ref=plSrch
Hi, thanks for the reply. Would this be sufficient? Also scarlett's outputs are balanced and Magni's inputs are unbalanced. So is it going to be a problem? Or am I just confused? Lol
Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O17
Cheap stands: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=yoga+block
okay I'm pretty set on buying the pair of JBL lsr305's off of amazon and I'm just wondering if I need an interface to use them and what fords I need
I have a PC that I want to hook them up to
Should I be okay with purchasing:
interface,
speakers and cords
Or do I need these cords too?
I am planning on buying a pair of JBL LSR305s because of the meemee. I want to connect them to my PC. Should I use the Monoprice DAC? I like the clean look of it as it would fit my desk aesthetic. Also, how would I connect the speakers? I understand I would have to PC>USB> DAC but the speakers would connect with 1/4 inch TS to RCA to which connection? The pre out or line out? (on the DAC) Am I even selecting the right cable?
Thanks for looking on eBay! I've decided (for now) to make my life a little bit easier and just hook up the speakers to the turntable, and I got an RCA volume controller for like $7 which is a lot less money haha. So now, hopefully, this will be my chain.
I'm just connecting the RCA volume controller in between the turntable and speakers, and then will have an RCA to TS cable to connect the controller to the speakers. I'm hoping this is all I need!
My thinking is that I'll evaluate how much I miss not having good speakers to play Spotify out of, and if it's worth going through the huge hassle of getting the switcher etc. Maybe when my budget is higher I'll be less anxious. In total, I just spent a little over $200 on this project...not bad!
It's like a constant hiss in the background, it's noticeable when I am not speaking, but it's always present even when talking.
I have Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface which is connected to my PC as well. I use these cables to connect the main output to the UCA202 then that connects to my PC via USB port. I also connect the mixer in via USB port as well.
Something like this or this one, not exactly sure on the second one
Alright, thanks! Would something like this work? (Maybe there's a better quality brand I should look into?) http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR203-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O18/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408054622&sr=1-1&keywords=TS+to+RCA
Also, if you don't mind me adding onto the question, I'd like to try my best to milk my DAC/Amp for as much as possible. Would you recommend going for something better than the Magni and/or replacing my DAC in the future if I want the most out of my sound? Thanks again.
After some more looking around I think that i have settled on getting this tv, Focusrite, digital from tv to focusrite, and these cables to the JBLs. I believe this will be a pretty solid setup, I made sure the tv is compatible and has the digital out. Unless anyone has other options or input that would be better I think ill be set with this. Based heavily on this review on amazon.
edit: after some more looking around im wondering if its worth getting the focusrite 2i2 for balanced outputs
Yeah, monitor out jacks aren't going to provide significant power. Most monitors are self powered (have a built in amplifier) in fact.
Computer multimedia speakers will work, but I really feel like you'll be disappointed in and poorly served by their performance.
I'm sorry it doesn't save you much cabling, but the very least expensive but reasonable sound you can get would be an inexpensive tripath amp (Lepai 2020a+ can occasionally be found for ~20$) and a pair of inexpensive speakers, like the Dayton B652-airs (around 60$, sometimes a little less).
Though I guess since you're legitimately considering a portable mono-speaker, you really won't mind, so I'll redeem my post by linking what I believe to be the kind of adapter need if you want to stick with the computer speakers: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-YMP-434-Female-8-Inch-Breakout/dp/B0010D0HO0
And here's the one that's best if you end up getting an amp: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR203-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O18
It depends on the DJ mixer, but it'll probably be dual RCA outputs (two mono channels (Left and Right) to make Stereo). So you'll probably need a dual RCA to dual 1/4" to record the two channels, like this.
I'm trying to connect a pair of JBL 305 powered monitors and an SVS PB-2000 sub to a simple 3.5mm laptop. I've tried researching on my own but I have no idea how the RCA inputs are supposed to connect together.
I imagine I would connect these to connect the speakers to the sub, and then these to go from the sub to my laptop?
The SVS PB-2000 has both RCA ins and outs, so this should be possible, correct?
Thanks for your response. So if i want stereo i need to have two cables, right? Can i use this TS (MicroKorg L/R) to RCA (my interface) cables? https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18
I think your problem is with using TRS cables. You need to use unbalanced mono TS cables like these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18
Also, not sure about using an external audio effect. I just create a new audio track and make sure input 1&2 are selected from the interface to give you a stereo signal from the 404.
I can find only fragments of the other thread you're referring to, but the TS-to-RCA cable is legit. It's not an adapter or coupler or anything like that. It certainly won't be the best connection option, but again, it works (it wouldn't damage the audio interface or the speaker), and it would cost far less than a pair of new monitors.
I looked at those speakers you have (or had). They're these? Those are more like bookshelf speakers, not active studio monitors. And $400 for the pair? You can do better than that for less money.
The JBL 305P monitors are another popular choice. They cost $150 each, and taxes/shipping could push the cost of the pair past your $300 budget. But both the Presonus and JBL monitors are fine choices.
For the sub you'll just need 1 coaxial RCA cable out from the receiver (Like what I linked below for the Fiio).
One coaxial cable for the DAC into the receiver, Like this cable
and two RCA to 1/4 TRS cable for the receiver to the JBLs, Like this cable
If you already have the JBLs hooked up via the Fiio you should already have those last two cables.
Cool, thanks again. I ordered the Modi 2 uber, Asgard 2, LSR305, and this RCA to TS cable (said it would work for TRS. I could not find a true RCA to TRS cable).
Hi,
I have Edifier R1280T speakers which have 2 sets of RCA Inputs.
I have 3 sources of audio: a turntable, a chromecast audio, and a Roland Quad-Capture.
I'm wondering how I can connect all three sources to the two inputs (2 white, 2 red) on my speakers. I tried RCA Male to Dual RCA Female but the sound was very quiet.
Would RCA piggyback cable work or would I just have the same issue?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Guessing your output are rca
Hosa YRA-104 RCA Male To Dual RCA Female Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K65nxbJWT24WQ
Wow, you are a library of knowledge, thank you very much for helping me out. I just found the JVC at a yard sale for 5$ and couldn't pass it up especially since I was looking for an amp that had a phono input.
Some more follow up questions:
> Yes. An RCA splitter like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y/
So I would need to get four of the RCA-to-Dual RCAF, two for the line out on the Yamaha (left and right) and two for the Tape-1 Rec on the JVC, correct?
>On your JVC, when you select Phono as your input, and TAPE MONITOR enabled, the RIAA-equalized and volume controlled signal will get sent to the Tape Out jacks, so you could send that to the Yamaha only (using the JVC essentially as a phono pre-amp), or split the Tape Out and send the signal also back to the JVC for amplification and have the sound come out of both amplifiers and all four speakers at once.
I'm still not 100% sure I completely understand the function of Tape Out (which I assume is the 'Rec' input on Tape-1?) So on the front of the JVC I'm having a little trouble understanding all the buttons. If I select Phono input and press the Tape-1 button and the Tape-1 'Rec' (I assume this is the same as 'out') split so that it goes to both the Yamaha and back into the Tape-1 'Play' (I assume this is the same as 'in') then I will be playing the phono through both amplifiers and both amplifiers will have the same adjustments made to the signal (the one from the phono input), however, they will amplify them differently (depending on the volume level of each amplifier, correct?)
Is the 'TAPE MONITOR' you refer to the same as the Tape-1 button on the front of the JVC?
If I switch on Tape-1 then there will be no output to the speakers without reconnecting the Tape Rec to the Tape Play, correct? This is why some receivers have the bridge you were referring to?
What do the buttons 'SUBSONIC FILTER' and 'SEA REC' do? Also what does the EXT-NR DUBB under the Tape 1 and Tape 2 buttons mean?
I don't expect you to know this one but I'll try anyways, any idea on the difficulty of the repair or the type of bulbs of the light bulbs behind the little wattage meters on the front of the JVC that light up as little blue circles? Both seem to be busted, but I think they look really neat lit up.
Again, thank you for letting me utilize your obvious well-versed brain
What I've did in the past (and what the OP probably ended up doing is buying a Y-splitter (link below) and plug the single end of it to the Denon output labeled "SW" and then connect his RCA's to it and the other end to his subwoofer.
Hosa YRA-104 RCA Male To Dual RCA Female Cable
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Male-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y
Edit
I don't know why that link appears to take you to a review of the product I was talking about. I've edited my post and check the link and it still keeps doing it for me on my mobile even though it's the link copied from the items main page.. Strange
Yeah, it would be super easy to run two. If you already have power coming in for one, just extend it over to the second. Also would need to split the RCA cables (red & white, they provide the audio data from the interface/head unit).
Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm opting for the lead suggested by manbearpig.
Just another quick question though, is it safe to leave the 3rd RCA unplugged, seeing as the lead only has 2 slots?
https://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483138962&sr=8-2&keywords=female+rca+to+headphone
If you have the RCA cable you can use one of this and get all the audio
Bit of a long shot, but this adapter will get you a 3.5mm headphone audio out.
Now, I say it's a long shot because it's pretty worthless at $35, however, all the WalMart stores around my area have them all on clearance for $7, which makes it a much better deal. While it doesn't say anything about working on a PS3, I have tried it, and it does work, though you will want a headset or speakers with volume control.
Otherwise, use an old PlayStation composite out cable, with the red, white, and yellow connectors, and get something like this adapter to convert it to a 3.5mm headphone jack.
Best of luck, and happy hunting!
If you want to have any volume control you will need a headphone amp (unless the xbox can adjust its volume?)
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E6-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395129027&sr=1-1
and here is a female adapter instead of male so you can plug in headphones
http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A
I would not try an svideo personally. I have my 360 plugged into my tv using an HDMI cable. But if your going into a monitor that doesn't have HDMI, you could use a HDMI to vga or dvi depending on what you need, and then rca audio to rca female to 3.5 mm female, then plug in pc speakers to the adapter. Linked below are the parts. This is what I would try, I don't know that it would work.
Plug audio from 360 and pc speakers into this:
http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372430037&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+female+to+3.5+mm+female
Plug one of these HDMI cables into the 360 and the monitor:
http://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-Black-Support-Necessary/dp/B002TUC64W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1372429330&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+to+vga+cable
http://www.amazon.com/DVI-HDMI-Cable-6ft-Male-Male/dp/B0002CZHN6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372429391&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+cable
HDMI does carry sound, but dvi and vga don't deliver it. I hope that helps.
I found one for cheaper.. This one is a dollar less, and has free shipping. You might be able to cancel the other order, and get this one. Or if the $4 isn't a big deal, then don't worry about it.
Would this work: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter-Audio-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=pd_cp_e_1 ?
You could use the RCA cable and then get an RCA to 3.5mm adapter like this. You can use the multi audio out to direct it to the speakers instead of the HDMI.
You need an adapter to 3.5mm jack (also known as minijack).
I'm not sure if the AT-LP60 has a cable attached permanently or not, if so you can use this cable: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Right-Audio-Female-Adapter/dp/B003LVDWOQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122433&sr=8-7&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm otherwise you can use any regular 3.5mm to rca cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122433&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
If the speakers have a permanently attached 3.5mm jack cable, then if the AT-LP60 cable is detachable you need this cable: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01KC6BEZQ/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122433&sr=8-24&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm or if it isn't, this one https://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122582&sr=8-1&keywords=female+rca+to+female+3.5mm.
> Stereo Splitter-3.5mm Jack to 2-RCA Jacks Audio Adapter
Would this work?
Do you still have your composite cable that came with your PS3?
You can use something like this (a female RCA to female 3.5mm headphone adapter) on the audio end of your cable. This will allow you to do one of the following:
3.5 connector
Youll need this youll just plug your RCA (Red/White) into one end and the headphone jack of the speakers into the other end.
If I'm understanding you right you're saying the piggyback cable I linked and the 3.5mm connectors I linked and wore them together?
Yes you could do that.
Could also get the piggyback cable I linked and something like this:
Female RCA to Female 3.5mm
My headset recently broke, but I basically did what Fermion does.
Now, since my headset broke, I am stuck with a jerry-rigged setup that actually works pretty damn well.
You will need THIS. It is a Y-splitter with two female RCA ends and a female 3.5mm audio jack (this is something that comes with almost all wired headsets). You will also need one pair of headphones and one pair of ear buds. What you do is connect the component cable to the PS3 and the Y-splitter to the red and white (audio) male connections. Plug in your ear buds to that and you will receive game sound. For mic audio, simply connect your headphones to a laptop, or whatever device you are using (tablet/smartphone). Put the headphones on over the ear buds and you now get both game audio and Teamspeak to work. The assumption here is that you have a mic on a laptop or that your phone's mic can be used. This setup will allow you to have game audio at whatever volume you like and TS volume at whatever volume you like. It also eliminates the echoing problem that is present with using the laptop, phone, or tablet speakers to get TS audio.
Something like this maybe?
http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A
Not quite an ELI5 post... "This is for concepts you'd like to understand better; not for simple one word answers, walkthroughs, or personal problems."
But anyways, the N64 uses an RCA connection. The yellow is video (as you know), and the red and white on the N64 cables are the audio. you can use an RCA female to 3.5mm female converter so that you can plug in your speakers directly to the n64.
here's one that should work:
http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425419208&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+female+to+3.5+female
The 2 red and white wires from the ps3 would plug into 2 red and white wires which would be female.
Manhattan 6 inches Stereo Splitter-3.5mm Jack to 2-RCA Jacks Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CGB-AbCVV05S3
That's what you need but just to confirm you don't have an aux port on your tv right?
The headphones are connected to the PS3 via a Splitter-3.5mm Jack to 2-RCA Jacks Audio Adapter, as the headphones are 3.5mm and the PS3 does not have this connection. Here is the item
I have checked the sound settings of the PS3, but it doesn't list any sort of volume for the headphones. This might change if the PS3 recognizes it and if it is USB.
Something like this and then another male-to-male jack to get it into the PC.
I have my ps2 setup on a computer monitor. I can either use computer speakers or headphones.
Use one of these to use headphones.
Then one of these to control volume
I bought this composite-to-vga video converter and it works in displaying the video onto my monitor. Something to note is that you still need a sound solution - I use this composite-to-3.5mm converter and plug my headphones/speaker into it with a male-male 3.5mm. It's not the most elegant setup but it gets the job done.
We don't have an official one but something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JFF7A/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=pd_lpo_267_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EADZ5MXWE1CRKH2ZT65E
Tried to edit my post but not sure if it took...you may also need an adapter to connect the green L/R jack to the white L/R RCA jacks on the Sound Blaster card. Something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=zg_bs_172544_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PXBKG20YYA039SK5XRTQ
This is possible, but you'll only get one channel of sound for both inputs, so you'll hear game sound in one ear and chat in the other. You'll need one of these and two of these. After you get those, connect the male 3.5mm ends to the sources, and then the red or white wires to the female 3.5mm adapter. Once that's done, you can plug in your headphones into the female 3.5mm jack and enjoy.
Buy something like This
sorry ill try to make it clearer.
my speakers has an 3.5 male aux cord. i bought a 3.5 mm female adapter to RCA male that i connect to my dj controller.
Speaker (3.5 mm aux) <-- 3.5 mm adapter to rca --> dj controller.
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463600114&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=rca+3.5+mm+adapter
These two items will do the trick:
You can find them on eBay, too. Also, I wouldn't recommend plugging headphones directly into a device like this; the signal will be at full volume (I'm pretty sure) and you won't have any way to turn the volume down. And those RCA outputs (red and white jacks) on the first item won't work if the audio signal from the HDMI source is more than 2 channels (like surround sound or something).
And in case you didn't know, the reason you need a special device like the one above is because the audio signal that travels inside the HDMI cable is a digital signal, and the audio you plug into speakers or headphones is an analog signal. So that device converts the digital signal into an analog signal.
No headphone jack. It does have an analog audio out now that I check again :/, I was confused. The back of the TV is here: https://drive.google.com/a/umich.edu/file/d/0Bxb-BPXcJ-11bVdQcU1xLUswZVE/view
If that is the case, would something like this work: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462557036&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=analog+to+headphone+jack
I'm looking for a setup that can combine the audio outputs from 2 PCs into one output that goes into my headphones (AT m50X). I recently bought this which I now realize doesn't support stereo. Can anyone suggest a cheap (under $25) way to accomplish what I want with stereo?
Edit: would this and these do it?
Well, assuming you already have composite video cables and 3.5mm -> 3.5mm audio cables around, you could buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Composite-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00CIC9KW2/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y
And pair it with this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410901299&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=rca+y+cable
And you've essentially recreated the original ports found on the Raspberry PI B.
good advice here in this thread so far but your description leaves us all guessing a bit.
if, as I suspect, the mic does not require phantom power Then:
I think that a possibly
better solutionwould be to get a stereo mini female to two RCA Male and use the "Record In" or "tape In" RCA's found towards the right on most behringer mixers.Lika dis: http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE
Edit: On second thought the mic probably won't have the voltage to drive that RCA tape in input without a preamp of some kind to "step up" the mic to line level
(the RCA inputs expect line level) ( maybe this would have same chance of kinda working that your 1/8 to 1/4 adapters had going in to line inputs -you would have to gain em up a lot and you would increase the noise floor)
Does your input of your channels have a mic/line switch by the 1/4 inputs --if so this gets you around that aspect of the problem --set the square up/down switch to mic and you are good with what you have (maybe )
What you really might need is a cable that will break out the 3.5 male jack into two XLR's I think (if the mic male mini jack is a stereo plug that does not involve the earphone side of your headset!) -- in this scenario , depending on whether you male plug is TRS,TRRS, or TRRRS, you might end up with one xlr having the mic signal you need going into your mixer ( yay!) and the other one "needing" to have the audio send to your earphone going into it.
Kinda Lika Dis One: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Stereo-3-5mm-Male-feet/dp/B000068OEP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407295366&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=xlr+to+mini+stereo but with a female on the 1/8 side -- an 1/8 Stereo "barrel" would convert the one shown to the right gender
I actually use computer speakers on my TV at the moment. You can use a 3.5mm (headphone jack) to RCA (red and white) cable to get the sound to play through your computer speakers. No special conversion is needed, and it keeps the left+right audio the same.
A cable just like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408530495&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=3.5mm+to+rca
If your computer speakers don't let you detach the input cable, you can use this type of cable adapter instead of the first one:
http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408530687&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5mm+female+to+rca
you'll probably have to use something like this with an adapter cable however you may have to run this through an amplifier.
or maybe one of these but you'll need an inline volume control on your headphones.
You wouldn't have to fiddle with anything if you buy:
This
Paired with This
This is the correct RCA to aux cable you would need to plug your green end into.
I still highly recommend you get yourself a pair of RCA to RCA cables and RCA to XLR cables if you plan on djing at house parties / events where you will need to provide your own equipment outside of speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE pop one of these into the rcas on the back and you’re golden
I don't know what a ATV jack is, but my guess is it is a video in jack.
However, all projector's I have seen have audio out via RCA, which you can then get this and boom, headphone jack.
So if my headset connects using a 3.5mm jack, would I need to buy a RCA male to 3.5mm stereo female cable to plug into the back of the SB2?
Thanks for the reply!
Do you think these would be better?
Is this the cable you're referring to? And I would have to get a male-male 3.5mm headphone cable right?
Black = Rear left and right.
Green = Front left and right.
Orange = Center and Subwoofer.
You need a cable like this
Connect to the green cable.
If you can return/exchange your audio converter, you might get something like this instead so that you can take advantage of your subwoofer and surround capabilities -- I don't know (nor have I used) the particular one in the link, it is just here as an example of the type.
Most TVs do not have a headphone jack as an audio output. Many do however have stereo output via phono (RCA) jacks. You could purchase an adapter like this: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&amp;cp_id=10429&amp;cs_id=1042902&amp;p_id=7198&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
Then you could just plug headphones into that, or an extension cable with the headphones. They also make those in cable form: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10218&amp;cs_id=1021815&amp;p_id=5598&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
That particular one would need an adapter from male to female to allow you to connect headphones.
Here is one more, you could plug headphones into the cable and the cable into the TV: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421715646&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=rca+1.8
Also, some TVs allow you to disable the internal TV speakers, some do not. Some will adjust the volume on the output with the TVs volume, some will not. Also doublecheck that the RCA output is analog and not digital (I'm fairly sure most are)
Hope this helps.
The mixtrack uses RCA. I'm not too sure about the Bose speaker, I tried using an adapter http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420920190&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=rca+adapter+splitter+2+female+1+male
But the Bose component was too big and didn't work right.
Can I instead just use the audio coming from the DS4 with headphones? Or should I buy [this] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4WPXA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp) and have [this] (http://www.digitaltrends.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/turtle-beach-ear-force-x12-review-cables.jpg) hooked up whilst using [this] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_su_dp). I know it's pretty much what you said above, but still.
Analog to Digital Converter
3.5mm to Male RCA
This is basically your option outside of buying a new soundbar or TV. Also look into some of the budget speaker setups on this subreddit. It will absolutely kill any soundbar you purchase. Not going to totally shit on you for getting a soundbar like everyone else in the sub but MB42X and a cheap amp off of accessories for less is an awesome beginning to a budget build.
So you will run a 3.5mm jack to RCA cord into the Analog to Digital Converter then the optical out of the converter into the soundbar.
These converters can be a little hit or miss with my experience so look around to find the one with the best review. I find monoprices stuff is pretty good. If it doesn’t work maybe try a little more expensive and reliable one.
If you already have a 3.5 you can find an adapter online for 3.5mm female to male RCA
Which is this
I doubt the USB to 3.5mm adapter will work on the XB1. However, I think you can accomplish what you're looking to do with one of these:
HDMI Audio Extractor
and one of these:
RCA Male to 3.5mm Female
EDIT: So I think I misunderstood what you were doing with the adapter. I didn't even know such a thing existed, but as long as you're not plugging the USB speakers directly into the XB1, I think you'll probably be OK. The above suggestion should still work as well if not.
Cool. You'll need an adapter like this if the TV has RCA jacks, but it's not expensive. I have a few years old Visio and it does have the variable output, but make sure yours does too.
I did a little Googling and found a quick and dirty way to accomplish this:
Connect your optical line to one of these.
Then, connect one of these things to it.
Finally, hook up one of these guys.
Hopefully that helps!
I checked the manual for the record player. This [2 x RCA Male / 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female Adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344748113&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=2+x+RCA+Male+%2F+1+x+3.5mm+Stereo+Female) should accomplish what you are trying to do. You can just buy a 3.5mm male to male cable for whatever length you need from amazon also.
You can output audio on the av multi out and connect your headset with this f3.5→mRCA
and this fRCA→fRCA
You can use both the HDMI and composite out ports on the back of the xbox, at least I've done it in the past with the old white xbox, not sure if it will work on the new one. Either way, just use a pocket knife or screwdriver to pop the plastic cover off of end of the composite cable that you plug into the xbox. That will save you the couple dollars for the special audio adapter that GearGuy2001 posted, just use the one that came with your xbox, leave the video cables unplugged, and get one of [these](http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=pd_bxgy_vg_img_b "I like tacos") so you can plug your speakers right into it.
If you have a pair of decent headphones you could pick one of these up, and hook that up to your TV audio out (if it has one) then tape your mic to the outside, and set voice to play through your speakers. Voila, DIY Turtle Beach/Tritton headphones! :)
That puts out a phono signal, not a line signal, right? Couldn't tell exactly from the quick googling. All you would need is a phono stage/pre-amp and then you could adapt the 1/8" TRS plug to RCA with a cable. It might even sound alright!
Check Amazon for phono pre amp and get one that fits your bud'...
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452307792&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=headphone+rca+adapter
http://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452307834&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=phono+pre+amp
For example
Depends on your tv. The PlayStation itself doesn't have a 3.5mm out, but your tv might. Also if your tv has rca out you can get an adapter for that here
7.1 "surround sound" is not a real thing for headphones. It's just stereo headphones that manipulates the left and right speaker to sound like the sound is coming from different directions. So, with that said, you just need to figure out how to plug in your headphones any way possible. So if your TV or monitor has a 3.5mm jack use it, if you're using a normal TV with old A/V cables, you can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449155343&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=av+cable+to+female+3.5mm+jack
to get sound.
you need this connector, fam: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE
basically any male RCA to female 3.5. you can get one in literally any shop that sells TVs, speakers, or audio devices (fryes, microcenter, radioshack, walmart...)
your TV has two audio out RCA ports (google them / RTFM), connect your adapter, red to red, white to white, then connect your male 3.5 to the female port
enjoy :)
edit: fixed link so it didn't have any partner referral links
I am currently using this coupled with an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504642923&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=rca+aux+adapter
Buy [this](HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter, One HDMI Input to HDMI Output + Optical SPDIF and RCA L/R Audio Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKLZzb7M8448H).
I personally do not know if this work but technically it should. Might need another hdmi cable if you don't have one to go from the converter box to your monitor.
Then buy [this](C&E 30S1-01260 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch Gold Plated Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5MLZzbS8E0JJG). Then you should be able to plug in your headset.
That's what I am thinking. Seems like this makes sense:
3.5mm Audio Splitter into Computer -> 3.5mm - 50 ft -> 3.5mm to RCA Adapter -> Analog to Digital Adapater -- like you recommended -> [Audio Optical Cable into TV]
My only question is that a lot of these converters show a TosLink port, and I do not have knowledge of what that is compared to a SPDIF. Are they compatible, or...?
NP! You’ll want something like this to convert from RCA to 3.5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_thZTCb68T52MS
As far as recording, AudioShare seems to be the best. And it supports copy paste into into apps like GarageBand and Gadget
Like this: one cable
Or this: needs m/m rca cable only
Or this: just the adaptor you made
and for giggles: you only need the m/m phono cable
OR you can use a phono pre-amp with a receiver which does not have phono input, this is the case with most newer receivers.
You are correct, the speakers must hook up to either the amp or receiver. If you are using computer speakers you'll need a converter [like this] (http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE?) and ensure the amplifier or receiver you choose has RCA output.
Had a guy at radioshack help me out with this.
http://www.amazon.com/Male-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_1
That's the main component, I also got an extended cable so I needed a male-male connection in addition. The entire set up cost me about 25 bucks. Using a pair of $25 skull candy's and the change was night and day for me.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI2HDMIA-Video-Converter-Audio/dp/B005G3VQ5E
+
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Adapter-Female/dp/B000I23TTE
By that I mean so I can run my headphones off of it. I would assume I cannot just have the Modi plugged in, but have my headphones plugged into my PC's onboard audio since those are two different playback sources on the PC.
When stacked, the Modi would plug through USB and connect to the Magni. But since I will not have a Magni or amp of any kind for a little bit I would just connect my headphones directly to the Modi with a Y-adapter like this, right?
See where it says av out? If you want to test using headphones you need to buy this adapter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I23TTE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1397524631&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
If you've got the slim xbox, I recommend, Monoprice RCA/Toslink Audio Adapter and 2 x RCA Male to 3.5mm Stereo Female and then of course, just plug in your HDMI to monitor. Both extremely cheap(technically can even go about a dollar cheaper on the RCA cables, but shipping would be longer).
Total = $7.66
No, it's not possible.
Just do this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P35JMO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I23TTE
It's way easier than trying to mod something and less than $10.
Thanks for the reply.
My subwoofer only has a single 3.5 female input, would that mess anything up? I plan on getting this and using a 3.5 male to male to connect to the subwoofer.
They make passthrough cables. Also known as piggyback.
RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback, 6 foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I94FAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lBlKAb4K83CST
3.5mm to rca on the switch. Run it to the computer piggyback cable. And an adapter for your headphones.
Should cost at the very most, $15 for everything.
That’s the most versatile setup.
For even cheaper, if the computer has a line in, run a 3.5mm from the switch into the pc. And just use the headphone jack or audio out on the pc.
That’s like $5 solution.
Personally I prefer the first option, it works better with amps, dac, and higher end headphones.
Would something like this also work?
aside from what /u/britty1983 mentioned, if you want to use the output to an external recorder you could pick up an RCA piggyback to run the output into the speakers and piggyback into something like this
Thanks for the info man. I'd love to spend a few hundred in a few months but for now I just need something to finish God Of War on lol. That Dayton 1000 ain't too pricey, if that's solid and I can't find a good discount deal I'll get that. Was gonna get the Polk psw-10 but been convinced otherwise
The JBL has 1/4" on the back so I don't think it should be too tough to hook up. Couldn't I just use 2 of these to go speaker wire to 1/4"? or I could use these and have RCAs going from my interface to the sub and my monitors. Not sure if it makes a difference. Piggybacks are a couple bucks cheaper
No. Depending on the console you're using, you need either
https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Cable-Composite-Yellow-S-Video-Stereo/dp/B007NNDKFY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483340956&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=composite%2Fs-video+cable+wii
or
https://www.amazon.com/Cinpel-S-Video-Cable-Nintendo-64-GameCube/dp/B00KZLEHL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483341056&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=s-video+cable+gamecube
Plus one audio splitter cable, like this one
https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483343243&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=piggyback+cable+rca+audio
Basically, these console cables have two video outputs. You plug the Composite end into your TV, and the S-Video end into your capture card. Then you use the audio splitter cables to have audio on both your card and your tv. It's pretty easy to set up on any CRT using composite
You could make it work but you would have to split the signal going into the amp.
Something like this from the source. The male RCA's would go to the SMSL SA-36.
The something like this to the subwoofer in.
Not ideal by any stretch but doable.
Key question here is are you attempting to connect directly to the speakers? If so, are they amplified at the speaker or by your home theatre amp. If it's by the amp, a direct connection from your echo to the speakers won't produce the outcome you're hoping for as the echo/dot/etc only put out a line level (read - non-amplified) signal, intended for amps or self powered speakers. If the speakers you're using are self powered then a simple piggyback cable will work (https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE)
You would replace your current cable from the receiver to the speakers with the piggyback then plug an 1/8" stereo to dual rca cable between your echo and the piggyback portion at the speaker (such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N10QD8B)
I'm betting the speakers are not self powered and your best bet is to use the 1/8" to rca type cable to tie into one of your receivers inputs and select that input when you want to use your echo for music and such. Not helpful for daily interaction perhaps but better than nothing.
Hope this helps
Well, first things first. Your speakers can already take RCA inputs, so you should just be able to plug in the record player (if it has a preamp built in), your CD player, or your iPod into the RCA input. If you don't want to plug and unplug the RCA every time, get something like this, which also lets you do centralized volume control.
Get a sub like this, and hook up an RCA splitter like this or this so that your source (whether it's the SYS above or something else) is running into both the subwoofer and the speakers.
Note: you don't want to wire it so that the subwoofer and the source are running into the speakers. That means your subwoofer won't be doing anything. The "one" end goes to your source, the "two" end goes to subwoofer and speakers.
Those speakers are fine, and it's almost always better to have one good setup than two mediocre setups.
Final proposed setup: your sources --> Schiit SYS ($50) --> splitter ($10)--> PSW10 ($100) + Resolv A5.
Why would you need video input for audio. You need optical out from tv to sonos. you could use the Connect for your tv if you use rca cables. If you want to connect both the tv and record player you can use this cable...https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B000I94FAE
something like this would probably work
not quite. something like this piggyback RCA connector would work, or this RCA splitter
you could use a 3.5mm splitter with two of the 3.5mm to RCA cables
What about
this
Okay, I found a solution after a bit of research. A RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback + 3.5mm Stereo Male To Dual RCA Female Audio Adapter + volume control attenuator will solve the problem, for about $20 to $30.
Or alternatively RCA piggyback cable’s to connect te sources at once:
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B000I94FAE
I have frozen tonkatsu in my fridge. Cook that, curry and rice.
cheap cables
Yeah, I figured there's a risk of sound distortion. I just wanted to give it a shot, as I'm annoyed with having to switch the source on the input. I just wasn't sure if it was even possible... and being a broke student, I didn't want to spend money on a cable for it to end up not even being possible lol.
Is the link I posted above a coupler? This one.
If you cannot configure your receiver as mentioned above, your only solution is with hardware. They have "piggy back" RCA cables that allow multiple sources on one input but im assuming your using hdmi...? If you are using component video (the 5 rca plugs) just get a 3.5 to piggy back rca cable!
Piggyback rca link (cant remember how to format this!?!):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I94FAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1396306185&amp;sr=8-2
Will this do it RCA Audio Piggyback Cable?
/u/MistrDarp Yeah just getting a Y will probably be fine for your application. Or something like this if using RCAs.
Edit: Linked the wrong thing.
I think a 3.5mm male to L/R Phono/RCA cable like this. You then hook it into the back of the receiver's input.
Some speakers to hook into the receiver will come in handy. Other than that I think you can just hook your headphones into the "phones" port on the front.
To record to your Mac run a simple RCA-to-3.5mm TRS cable from the receiver's "Tape Out" jacks into the computer's "Mic/Line In" jack. Your turntable remains plugged into the receiver's "Phono" input:
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
BTW, here is a discussion somewhat related to your original question and thoughts on using a different type of speaker cable (RCA-to-TS):
http://www.hydrogenaud.io/forums/index.php?s=&amp;showtopic=106867&amp;view=findpost&amp;p=874344
Ahh cool. Well in that case you can probably get away with something like this http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
They make, and I had a rca right and left(red, and white) to 3.5MM. Here's one
Yes! Keep the speakers connected to the radio system and connect your PC sound card to the AUX IN via a RCA to 3,5mm cable.
This should do the job granted you have all the drivers installed for your motherboard
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
You need a RCA to 3.5 mm cable and more importantly, you'll need a phono pre amp if you don't have one already and are using a phono input somewhere else.
I'm using a Sennheiser RS185 which has a RF tower for wireless sound transmission. There's nothing wrong with the headphones, but there is a problem I have with audio cables, and that's that for some reason the red and white analog cables don't work when connected to my computers. This is also true of my speakers.
As a result the way I've got it to actually work is by using something like this since these for whatever reason can be read by my computers properly, but I was wondering if I was missing out on sound quality or something by doing this and also if anyone happens to know why the red/whites don't work on the computer end, even though they do for TVs.
No, this old video card will use the regular PCI on your motherboard. The description says your motherboard has the appropriate slot. This PCI video card has a yellow RCA video out. Just combine it with one of these 3.5mm to RCA audio converters and you're got all three. That video card doesn't work with Windows 7, by the way. Windows XP 32-bit would be best. You can get Linux to work with it, but it's extra work. Nice retro feel.
Are you sure you don't want to buy a new LCD TV with HDMI? I guess CRTs are better for viewing older non-widescreen TV shows.
get 3.5 mm to rca cable, plug other end to your sound card, other to your (amp) stereo inputs.
here is the cable you need:
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
random first cable that i got with google search (very literally), dont buy that one, find a better or cheaper one.
(these should cost like 2 dollars depending on length)
you might need something like this
Okay so I would get [something like this] (http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4) and then run the white cord to one monitor and the red to the other?
Also, after a quick google search I've found a number of complaints about RCA connections as opposed to XLR. Is it really that much worse, or are they just serious audiophiles? If so, is there a way for me to use XLR with the iPhone/Zune?
u need one of these
im pretty sure there are some nexus7 installs on here...
i think the biggest problem is making it look good while sitting in the dash
didnt someone just put a small amp in place of the stereo due to theft ???
Ah, thank you for clearing that up. Would someone like myself be able to remedy the lack of being able to carry a digital audio signal by using a 3.5mm-RCA cord such as: http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
or should I just scrap that and go with an affordable DAC?
like this? (im gonna assume so cause i use that same system for my computer speakers with a large pc power supply).
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4
You can rip any wire out of a lamp or whatever and that will be fine instead of speaker wire (free!). What I did is I found a cheap ass old vintage amp from the 70's at a yard sale (I happened to find a Nikko 7075), paired it with the Model 6's and now have an amazing system for listening to music IMO. If you get an old style amp you will need one of these to connect your computer: http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4 Gaming doesn't have surround sound but that's what headphones are for...
Ah i see. So simply connecting the red and white cables won't work. I'll need a adapter to connect it to the Audio Jack.
Do you think this will work? http://amzn.com/B000V0G2C4
I still need the red and white cords to connect to the wireless headphones. Would I just be able to use this and plug it into the headphone slot instead of the red and white slots?
Or would a RCA to HDMI adapter work better?
This PIE adapter might do it: http://amzn.com/B000P9SLCA . I'm not sure about compatibility with your head unit; it needs an IP-Bus port (like for CD changers) to hook into. Pair it with this cable and snake it out front somehow: http://amzn.com/B000V0G2C4
As long as you're comfortable getting back behind your radio, consider an upgrade. This one has USB and AUX inputs: http://amzn.com/B0068Y7HUS
Left and right audio cables connect to something like this and that goes to my monitors audio input or any other audio device
I should also mention that
Yep. Some models of AT TT'S come with an RCA to 3.5 adapter to hook up to a computer but if yours didn't you will need this.
http://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415666025&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Rca++female+to+3.5+male
one of these and one of these That should do it.
You will Need either of these setups
Option A:
http://www.amazon.com/NEW-CONVERTER-S-VIDEO-CABLE-ADAPTER/dp/B000S675JU/ref=pd_sim_23_10?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=31L2CY0W4LL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0RNJRTTWNSY9VQBGZJ3Q
http://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=pd_sim_23_32?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=31fRFCYMRCL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0C14B20DERSC4CV603A3
Option B (not recommended):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I53ZX2
Note: both of these methods go without use of a switchbox.
Use this and the other link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1O2fvb0W5WP51 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_iQ2fvb0JR3BP7 Try not to buy from Chinese sellers it could take 1 month to get there
I looked into the audio adapter, and apparently this is the best option. Will I need to buy this cable to connect to my speaker system? Thanks.
WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT USE COAXIAL/RF. If you do, the internet will hate you.
Here's what you need to get:
Video Cable
http://www.amazon.com/Third-Party-Genesis-AV-Cable/dp/B004H7TX0A/
Audio Cable
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/
Plug the video cable into the back, plug the audio cable into the headphone jack. Combine for best results. In a nutshell, the headphone jack has stereo sound output, the rear output is mono.
You CAN get your system modded to output RCA through the rear, and you can also have it modded to output S-Video, but I hear it can be costly.
Well... 3.5mm is the same signal as RCA, so you could use that same exact switch with a couple of cheap plug adapters like this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Male-Splitter-Cable/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1302122503&amp;sr=1-2
or if you want a switch designed with RCA in mind you can do that too:
http://www.amazon.com/RCA-DT902AV-2-Way-V-Switcher/dp/tech-data/B0014KOAD8
in fact, it would be cheaper for the OP to pick up one of those RCA splitters and adapt it to 3.5mm then even the original 3.5mm switch I linked to.
As long as the TT included an RCA cable, no. But you will probably need another rca cable to connect to your speakers.
This one if you are connecting to red and white inputs
http://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-PREMIUM-6-Feet-Stereo-Plated/dp/B001VIYYCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422382192&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rca+cable&amp;pebp=1422382204833&amp;peasin=B001VIYYCK
This one if you are connecting to a 3.5mm jack
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422382231&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rca+cable+to+3.5&amp;pebp=1422382234623&amp;peasin=B0016LFN2C
Okay so, tell me if this shopping cart looks good.
-http://store.uturnaudio.com/products/orbit-basic-turntable
-http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422382260&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pre-amp
(Pre-Amp)
-http://www.amazon.com/Cable-feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422382231&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rca+cable+to+3.5&amp;pebp=1422382234623&amp;peasin=B0016LFN2C
(RCA cables)
Everything listed there would allow me to listen to my records?
Hey, I currently have my dad's old mobilepre usb and was wondering if i could hook it up to a schiit magni 2 using one of these.
Would it be possible?
I use the CD input and connected my iPod using something like this. I also tried on the VCR connection and the "mono" connection (not sure what that is).
I tried turning the tape monitor loop on and off and that didn't change anything.
I don't know of a mute option on the receiver, but if it was muted wouldn't that also mute the center and back channels?
I'll ask my friend this evening if he ever had any issues with it.
EDIT: here is a link to the manual if that helps at all
male 3.5 to male rca splitter.
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C
Also if the plug has a ground on it you'll want to get a groundless adapter otherwise you might encounter some interference (a hum).
Like this one?
I ran one of these to the line-in on my computer and set HDMI for video on the PS3 and Audio Input Connector / SCART / AV MULTI for the audio.
oh... ok. Then you'll probably have to use your computer speakers. and, I"M GUESSING, you're probably gonna need something LIKE THIS
You'll have two cables coming out of the xbox. One is an HDMI cable running to the monitor. That's the video signal. The other is a RCA cable (audio) running into the above mentioned convertor cable, running into your computer speakers. Sounds complicated but its not hard. You can get this cable for cheap at any electronic store like Fry's
If you could accept a $4.20 hardware solution, get this and this, and connect Red=>White and White=>Red. No soldering necessary.
If you have a cable length problem, 3.5mm audio extension cables are also quite cheap.
No problem. You will still need a phono pre-amp of course (they start at around $15), and a RCA to stereo adapter like this one.
You should be able to run your dreamcast through hdmi with better graphics for 60 bucks, you simply need these three things...
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-1080p-HDMI-Scaling-Converter/dp/B008COJXHC/ref=pd_cp_e_0
http://www.amazon.com/Tomee-Sega-VGA-Cable-Sound-Adapter/dp/B00HPU96FI
And then a tiny audio adapter in order to connect the cables and have the audio go through hdmi, http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-RCA-Female-Discontinued/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406852313&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=red+white+audio+to+3.5mm
The Etekcity can do 720p but for some reason 1080 does not work. I first bought a Panlong, it did not work for me. The picture would show in 720 and 1080 but it scrolls diagonally and could not be fixed. I then bought the Etekcity, and although it only works in 720 it still looks ridiculously nicer than standard. I assumed it would barely be noticeable but it is a lot, though if you never played dreamcast the standard way it might not seem all that big of a deal.
Does the new monitor have a headphone jack? If so, you can get an RCA-3.5mm adapter for it.
I am not responsible for any damage done to your computer. The reason I suggested the hardware solution with the 3.5mm to RCA adapters in my other post is because it does not change the functionality of your PC and is easily reversible. Registry changes like these seem small now, but as time goes on, you tend to forget what you did and will wonder "Why the hell doesn't my sound work correctly?" So... you have been warned.
Things you will need:
First, plug one cable into the Green jack behind your PC and one cable into the Black jack. You must do this first before anything else. Open the Registry Editor (Windows + R, "regedit") and navigate to the following key:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class{4D36E96C-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}\00XX\Settings\DrvYYYY_DevType_YYYY_SSYYYYYYYY
XX is the key for Realtek High Definition Audio. It's usually 00, but you can click on 0000 and read the key for "DriverDesc" on the right panel and it should read "Realtek High Definition Audio".
YY is usually a string of numbers and letters unique to each PC, so don't worry too much about this.
Once you've made it to this registry folder, right click the folder on the left panel and select Export. Keep this somewhere safe in case you mess up or want to revert your jacks back to their original functionality.
Next, you'll need to make one modification to an existing entry. Modify the following key:
Pin15 = 04 00 00 00
This will reprogram the Black (rear speakers) jack to act as if it is a GREEN (front speakers) jack. If Pin15 doesn't appear in your registry editor, make sure the cable is plugged into the Black jack and refresh Regedit. Once you've successfully made the changes, restart your PC so that the registry changes can take effect.
Once your PC is up and running again, open the playback devices (Right click sound icon in taskbar, select Playback Devices). Then click on the speakers and select Properties. Under the Levels tab, find "Front" and click "Balance". Change the Balance to be ZERO Right and 100 Left. Your Green jack is now your left channel. Now find the "Rear" and change the balance to be ZERO Left and 100 Right. Your Black jack is now your right channel.
Lastly, connect the 3.5mm cable from the Green jack to your LEFT monitor and the 3.5mm cable from the Black jack to your RIGHT monitor. Make sure the volume on your monitors is turned up. Once everything is wired up, you'll have your sound working exactly as you would like.
For anybody curious with the hardware route, it's this:
Plug the 3.5mm male to RCA female into your Green jack, plug one RCA male to 3.5mm mono male into the red RCA connector and plug that wire into your right monitor. Repeat for the white RCA connector and the left monitor. EZPZ.
This isn't as difficult as it sounds. You will have to have your hdmi connected to your monitor, and the av cables connected to the back of your Wii U. You will also need one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-RCA-Female-Discontinued/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418680524&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=av+to+3.5mm&amp;pebp=1418680539436
Alternatively you can get the female end if you want to use headphones, but this will allow you to connect it to your speakers so you can get audio from you Wii U.
In your Wii U system settings there is an audio output option. You need only select the option that allows you to output sound via the av cables.
It'd have been nice if Nintendo would have added optical output for audio, but since that is not the case, this is the easiest, and cheapest, way of getting this done. This is the exact configuration I have on my Wii U.
Hmmm, so if I were to get a converter like this, then I will just need an Amp (e.g. Topping TP21) to run my setup?
Edit: My motherboard is a GA-Z87X-UD3H if that helps.
You may be able to connect your headset to the monitor with one of these: 3.5mm to RCA female
If your TV doesn't have an available HDMI port, maybe this will help:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apR4Na5OHnY
http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1334076863&amp;sr=1-2
This is what you need.
I would use ethernet to minimize interference and lag. I would not use the system /u/hornflips recommends because that runs on the 2.4ghz band. The same band your wifi runs on which will cause interference. I would try these. There very cheap so if they don't work then no big deal. As long as it's not more than 250ft away, you should be golden.
EDIT: Your TV may only have a headphone output so you will need an adapter like this.
Would something like this suffice? http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-RCA-Female-Discontinued/dp/B0018MI5F6
Hey guys, simple question about a frugal speaker set up. I'm looking at getting this setup, suggested over in /r/BuyItForLife and I was wondering if I could get an opinion on it, or suggestions for improvement. Sadly, I have a pretty small budget of $85. I'm really just looking for something that will play decent sound and volume from my computer.
Speakers
[Amp]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012KZNP4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
RCA cord
Yup, I bought mine from Amazon, and it works great.
For the audio, he'd already have the audio rca cables coming out, so he'd need a cable like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018MI5F6?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=forum0bbf-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0018MI5F6
If you have a blue line in port on your laptop, you can get an adapter [like this] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018MI5F6?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 ) and plug the red and white plugs from the PS3 AV cable into the respective female ends on the adapter going into the line in on the laptop.
You then have to go into the sound settings on your PS3 and choose to output audio to the AV. You may also have to turn on the playback audio from the line in port using Realtek HD audio manager on your PC.
This is how I personally do it with my desktop PC and PS3.
Ok great. I'm going to go with the regular version of both for now, I'll upgrade later on but this is fine for now.
One last question, will this be what I need to attach the two together? Monoprice 1.5ft Premium 2 RCA Plug/2 RCA Plug M/M 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L1717K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gS3Iyb83FZMQF
so i guess this is fine?
oh. yep, male to male RCA and some speaker wire will be needed.
dont get tricked into expensive "fancy" rca's either. for a small distance there wont be much difference.
something like this would be perfect https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=lp_597546_1_8?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468903801&amp;sr=1-8
edit: same with speaker wire, dont need expensive stuff just get decent 14 gauge or whatever fits your speaker terminals. and i always put some of these on my speaker wire, cause it makes things much easier if you have to unplug anything. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9ALE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468903981&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=speaker+plugs
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5346
A little longer than the PYST, but a fraction of the price.
Also this, will save space on your desk but $25 (RCA Bridge / Rigid Cross Connect Introprose): http://www.ebay.com/itm/112059511440
Sorry about all of the noobie questions.
Are those regular RCA to RCA cables? If so, wouldn't something cheaper like this work?
Yeah the Magni just comes with the wall wart. You'll need an RCA to RCA cable to connect the Magni 2 to the Modi 2. Schiit sells these quite expensive ones, but I opted for the cheap Monoprice ones. They'll do the same thing, the Schiit ones are just shorter and maybe have somewhat better build quality. Then you'll need a USB A to B cable to connect the Modi 2 to your computer, again Schiit sells an expensive one, and Monoprice has a cheap one. And that will do it unless you get the Uber version and want to setup speakers.
https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=6+inch+rca+cable&amp;qid=1568489347&amp;sprefix=6+inch+rca+&amp;sr=8-3
Monoprice 105346 1.5-Feet 22AWG Premium 2 RCA Plug to 2 RCA Plug Cable, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003L1717K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7IL7CbT1NV208
You'll need 2 or 3 things to do this cheaply.
Most importantly is an optical S/PDIF DAC, the Fiio D3 is among the cheapest and smallest packages available.
http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420920775&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optical+DAC
That unit comes with the optical Toslink cable you'll need. You also need a stereo RCA cable. Length will depend on your setup, but you probably won't need anything long. Monoprice is a good inexpensive cable supplier.
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=pd_sim_e_9?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0D43HPKDVJ2NTMMRYPE0
Now some TVs use a mini-toslink jack for Digital Audio out, it'll have the same size connector as a ⅛" headphone connector. The standard toslink is a pentagon shaped connector usually with a shutter to protect it from dust. If you have the ⅛" mini-toslink you'll also need an adapter such as this, if you have standard the included cable with the Fiio will work.
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102671-Toslink-Female-Adapter/dp/B001V5HQAU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420921060&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=mini-toslink
www.amazon.com/dp/B003L1717K/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_W5dQwbNF48GJQ
I'm on my phone but this should be it
Just a quick question about DAC/amp setup: I just ordered a pair of 6xx's after seeing them discounted on Massdrop and ordered the Magni 3 to go with it. I plan on using my already owned Scarlett Solo as the DAC. For the cables, would I just get one of these? Thanks in advance!
edit: and since both the Solo and the Magni have headphone ports, which one would I connect the headphones to?
Schiit has pyst rca cables for $20 plus shipping, but you would also be fine with this
Nope, just the power brick that comes with the magni. No rca cables
Edit: You would need RCA cables like these and a usb cable to go from modi to your PC or source
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L1717K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1426706903&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=monoprice+rca&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=416iQd-rgoL&amp;ref=plSrch
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Out of curiosity, how does the second RCA cable you linked compare to this? What advantages does it have?
Im using these cables and adapters: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EL9V5XW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002KL26JA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
But i think that the problem might be that im using a EU plug on my Magni and im currently in Canada (US plug), do you think that the voltage difference would cause this to happen?
The RCA's I'm using from the HU to the MiniDSP 2x4 are these -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI89IQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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The ones I'm using from the DSP to the amp are these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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The Behringer MicrHD HD400 looks interested, although I cannot find anywhere where people have uses it in car audio. The description says that it is for AC current. Have you used it in car audio, which is DC current? I also just noticed it's only 2 channel, is there a 4 channel option? I'm not seeing one. I'd need for channels to run it after the MiniDSP 2x4.
idk about the PYST cable. how long is it? I bought this for my setup and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/
And yes the valhalla 2 is a great pair with the 650
edit: oh and I just looked. At 6 inches I don't think the Schiit PYST cable would reach. I can take a pic of my setup when I get home so you can see what the spacing is like if you want.
Just need your stamp of approval on this finalised list. I figured get more items and overhaul the whole desk audio setup instead of investing into one single thing.
For a grand total of: $304.63 ~= $305
Good to go?
Do you have an amplifier in your setup? Are you using lower end powered speakers instead? Most low end setups have at least a 3.5mm jack. You can find cables that convert between all of the above plugs, so don't worry about compatibility. Focus on how beefy you want the connection to be on the DGM. Here is a cable that goes from 3.5 (1/8) to RCA for example: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
Simple and cheap solution.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
Probably something like this but who knows. It could be some proprietary thing that you have to buy from whoever made the TV.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
Would this work?
the focusrite 2i2 doesnt have extra RCA outputs. Im using one of these to connect the two.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394236955&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=mediabridge
Im actually starting to like the amp in the chain. The midrange isnt as present but it still sounds relatively neutral. The vocals are a touch more forward and present. I think this is what the headphone is supposed to sound like. I changed my sourcc removing the audio interface and connected the ipod. It sounds the same as if the amp was connected. I think the amp connection allows the hd600 to sound "normal" and while connecting straight to the audio interface, it was enough power but not quite there. It still sounds pretty good either way. Cant complain, thank you everyone! I figured that if you use max volume on the audio interface when the amp is connected it sounds just fine.
Just go with something like this.
So something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66?
Here is how you should have it set up. From your iPod you need one of these-that should be plugged into the AUX section on the back. Turn the volume down on both before you start playing any music. Then turn the ipod volume maybe 3/4 of the way up, then adjust the volume of amp.
You'll need an amp, like the one in the OP, a jack to phono cable from your computer to the amp, and speaker cable from the amp to the speakers.
Do you mean something like this? link just plug in one of the two rca ends to the sub at the “sub in” port?
I heard about the SC4, this would be the RCA to 3.5mm right?
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66
You mean a 3.5mm to RCA adapter? A lot of stereo receivers and sound systems don't have 3.5mm jacks, so those adapters are pretty useful if you want to connect your phone or mp3 player.
Assuming , I got the right TV Page 19 of the manual (HERE) shows 2 audio output options #1 SPIDF digital (you'd need to convert it to digital coax) and #3 3.5 stereo (headphone jack) - to use that you'd need one of these. Page 36 - 37 shows the onscreen menu for adjusting the analog (3.5mm) and digital (SPIDF) sound outputs. If you have headphones, you should be able to plug them into the 3.5mm headphone port on the TV and hear sound (be careful it's not too loud) to confirm that is working.
Getting ready to purchase the JBL LSR305's as recommended. I like to have higher quality systems at work, but I wanted some decent sound for the house computer.
Aside from these Breakout Cables, is there anything else I need / can do to improve the sound (that's worth the effort?) I just plug this straight into my Mobo's audio jack right? Would a dedicated soundcard make a significant difference? Would a USB to DAC to Breakout cables be worth it? If so any recommended DACs for these speaks? I'm mostly only familiar with headphone setups
Fyi I already have a lot of high quality source music so I'm mainly just talking about the hardware
Thanks, I really appreciate that. The speakers should arrive tomorrow and the sub on Thursday. So far, I've got two sets of these Male XLR to Female XLR and one of these 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4.
I use a standing desk thats about 5 ft wide, so I figured just put a speaker on each side of the desk and the sub on the floor. I'm sure this is a naive question, but what more is there to consider acoustically without going nuts and spending a bunch of money?
One of these to connect the Fulla 2 to your computer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EK87WXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
One of these to connect your LSR-305's to the Fulla 2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You're all set after that.
I'm hoping to use something like this or maybe if I can find a nice looking dock to hold me off until I can get a reciever with a phono input. But if I get that cable can I plug my phone into it and use it as a aux?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6