Best registers, grilles & vents according to redditors

Charcoal filters.

You can get them for your air vents (especially over intake vents), and also for your roommate's butt.

Dishes of coffee beans or fresh-ground coffee work to absorb odor and release faint but pleasant scent (assuming you like the smell of coffee beans). You can make an attractive dish of coffee beans with an unscented tea light in the middle for your bathroom (and the candle doesn't even have to be lit for it to work, but it can help!), and put a dish of fresh-ground coffee beans behind the toilet. Put the coffee-bean candle things everywhere in your apartment. Change the beans every month or so.

Get some leafy plants throughout your space. They can help too.

My solution will always be to use a bunch of very small exhaust ports, and then really splurge and put these on each of them.

They make vents designed for under cabinets.

The radiators in the hot rooms need smaller vents so they take longer to heat up, and/or the radiators in the cooler rooms need larger vents so they heat up more quickly. Some steam vents have a dial you can adjust like this, others have a replaceable orifice like this one - I got two of them last year and in spite of their low price they work perfectly. If a vent is not adjustable you can replace it with another vent.

Also, the headers in the upper floors may have undersized vents. My house has two headers. One is a short headers supplying 5 rooms, the other is a long header supplying 2 rooms. The rooms supplied by the long header took a long time to heat up, so I replaced the slower header's vent with one of these and it heats up much faster now. It cost me $75 if I remember correctly, but it was well worth it. It has much more venting capacity than anything with a similar price.

One last thing: see the diagram here: https://www.gorton-valves.com/products In general you want small capacity vents for radiators near the boiler/with short pipe runs and large capacity vents further away/with longer pipe runs so the system vents all the radiators at about the same time. It's part experience and part trial and error.

My cat hated that mat at first, and would jump over it or go around it, but she eventually accepted it as normal. Now she’ll lay on the damn thing.


I think you can buy diverters for the air vents that direct the air forward and away from the wall.

Accord APFRDFU Heavy Duty Magnetic Adjustable Air Deflector for Floor Registers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052ECJ5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_JJ1xCb8NXDV35

how about clear plastic housing with air holes of course... but put some type of air filter in those holes? buy cheap air filters, cut them to size, put them in place maybe?

something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/WEB-WVENT-Vent-Register-Filters/dp/B000BWKMI2

probably would look better if it was on the left and right and or top or bottom.. more aesthetically pleasing...

....or would this cut down air flow and make the machine way too hot?

Second this. I installed one of these in our basement stairwell door, because there's no return down there.

All you have to do is notch out the bottom of the door with a jigsaw. Super easy and works well. Also more inconspicuous than a vent above the door. Cheers.

It's probably pushing the fan out of balance. Is the clicking caused by the chains hitting the fan? If so, you can wrap tape around them. You could also look into getting a vent deflector so the air doesn't hit the fan.

https://www.amazon.com/Accord-AMAGCOV815-Magnetic-8-Inch-15-Inch/dp/B0052EB648

If you are dead-set on using tape, then taping to a panel of corrugated cardboard, foam board or masonite board cut to fit the tile will save the rest of the tile finish. A $1 can of Lowes white spray paint will go a long way to fixing the current appearance of the tile.


But go with a magnetic vent cover:
There are box-type magnetic vent covers that will (if sized to the vent) fit over the louver-adjusting lever and seal well, or you can pop off the grill and remove the louver mechanism so that you have a flat surface to seal with the sheet-magnet cover.

https://www.amazon.com/Broan-512M-Through-Wall-6-Inch-Sones/dp/B000LNKUN8/ref=br_lf_m_3qa6o5sdabjh42f_img?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi

It's a vent, though it does work as sort of an automated control valve for the radiator, turning off the steam as soon as it reaches the valve to push the steam towards other radiators, and to prevent the steam escaping the system.
Here's an example, though there are many styles. They are usually mounted to the radiator between a third and half the way up on the side opposite the piping.
https://www.amazon.com/Hoffman-Steam-Angle-Radiator-401440/dp/B0057XTJOI

Consider an air exchanger -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XJNZ1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_YklBzb5PD9RXW

Yep, that vent is bad. I'd recommend a replacement ASAP, probably would go with a Big Mouth from Barnes and Jones inc for the replacement. https://www.amazon.com/Barnes-Jones-Big-Mouth-Vent/dp/B01F26P13C

Lob an inch off the bottom of the closet door, cut and install a vent like a return air vent above door frame, place 2-3 box fans blowing out behind grille. Should move enough air in and out to keep things in decent shape.

I dealt with a similar issue of inconvenient vent placement. You can get air vent deflectors that direct the air across the floor instead of straight up (assuming the vents are on the floor). Here is an example: vent deflector (Amazon)

One of the HVAC companies I talked to recommended that I replace my old-style vents with bar style vents. 50% more air flow and you can point the air anywhere. I'm finding that I can put the temperature up to 78 more often because the cool air wasn't mostly being sent towards my walls any more.

Curtains and wall hangers to absorb sound. Cheap register air filters can also help with sound transmission through ductwork.

As for the ceiling, depends on the pattern. If it's just stippled, that's simple to fix upon moving out. A screw hole or 8 aren't gonna be a problem.

There's also peel and stick sound dampening panels. Caveat, though: the adhesive is strong. One commenter suggest tacking/stapling up cardboard and sticking the panels to the cardboard for easy removal later.

Thank you for the warnings. It is aluminum siding, but I have confirm the soffit material. And 12'... no, this will be higher up, so it's a bit scarier. I think I'll follow your guidance there.

As for the type of vent -

What about this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085UZLMY/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1W7KJI9KTIH68&colid=8HWGG16SM6I3

Problem solved.

Amazon. Magnetic Vent Cover

Check with the owner if the vent ducts have been cleaned. And check if the heating furnace filters were also changed. Filters need to be changed twice a year. Vent cleaning every 3 years.

In the meantime, buy vent register filters like this: https://www.amazon.com/WEB-WVENT-Vent-Register-Filters/dp/B000BWKMI2

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009XVIYYQ/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QAM7PK16PKTDPYR6FV7C

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ARPEZI/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_acqRDbYF71QV1


This is what I can find...I have no idea how to post a picture as a reply

Heres the picture https://imgur.com/gallery/5E1ddZ5

For my setup, I use a z-wave thermostat (Iris CT-101) but it shouldn't really matter what connected thermostat you use so long as you can send it some kind of command that home assistant supports (MQTT, Z-Wave, RF etc.) to control it. I have a two story townhouse with only a single HVAC unit so the upstairs tends to get a bit hotter than the downstairs by a few degrees.

The issue I ran into was that my A/C thermostat goes into an idle state when it detects the room temperature is at or below the desired set target temperature. For example it has no idea my upstairs is 80+ if the downstairs is at or below 78, it just stays idle. To get around this I put a temperature sensor upstairs and created a sensor in home assistant for it. Then I tricked the thermostat into staying on when the upstairs temp is still above desired by calculating the delta of the uptairs/downstairs temps, subtracting it from the current downstairs temp and setting that as the new target. The problem with that work around is it also makes the downstairs freezing by the time it's cooled the upstairs to the desired temp.

The only way to get around the whole problem is to have two separate zones, which requires expensive HVAC work if you want it done properly, so I've been looking at hacking these programmable vents with an ESP2866 to create an upstairs and downstairs zone without two separate HVAC systems. The ideal goal would be to be able to close all the vents in rooms that aren't currently occupied or already at desired temp so the HVAC can direct the air where it needs to go.

Here is a bar type register by Truaire: http://www.amazon.com/Truaire-C210VM-10X06-Measurements-Diffuser/dp/B0054RIHPO

Here is a curved blade register from the same manufacturer: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202531415/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053

I went the basement route, in a storage closet.


I put an exhaust vent in the wall with two 12v 140mm Noctua fans, found an AC vent grill at Lowes that they fit perfectly into. Those particular fans blow a TON of air and are pretty quiet.


Then I put a filtered intake vent into the bottom of the door.


The exhaust fans create a vacuum inside the closet and suck air in through the intake. It keeps the closet at the exact same temperature as the rest of the basement.

edit - grammar

Maybe this would fit?

Also the one you found, though 1/4" short in all dimensions, is commonly just called a 12 x 6. Most of them refer to hole size in drywall/surface, I think.

That is almost certainly a single pipe steam radiator. (If there are two pipes on the other side, it's a two pipe steam one. they have other failure modes, let me know if that's the case...) The most likely problem is that the air vent (which is the thing in the middle hole) has failed, and no longer letting air out of the radiator when the boiler is steaming. Remove it; replace it with one of these or other good quality made-in-USA radiator vent. (Chinese made ones are all crap, and will fail within a year.)

Also, check that someone didn't shut the valve off....

All of my upstairs vents are like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ARPEZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.N7hDbWEVVQQZ


All of my downstairs ones look like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q04TDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0O7hDbVW9NMAY

That makes sense. The "envelope" of your house is probably very air-tight, and without fresh air you have all sorts of problems.

However, the solution is to use an ERV or similar product. They exchange outdoor and indoor air, but also heat/cool the fresh air before bringing it in.

Here's an example of one:

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-04VE1-WhisperComfortTM-Ventilation-Patent-Pending/dp/B000XJNZ1Y

Video about it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3CRGhu8C5I

Alternately, install a make-up-air duct and feed it into your HVAC return. Yeah, the cold air still comes in, but it's heated right away by your furnace. Plus it won't use any additional power. This is how my house is setup.

12" X 12" Steel Return Air Filter Grille for 1" Filter - Removable Face/Door - HVAC DUCT COVER - Flat" Stamped Face - White [Outer Dimensions: 14.5 X 13.75] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061MI4ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ysCpDb08XVTK9

I have a honeywell zone controller. As far as I can tell it is a Honeywell HZ311. The home was built in 2010, so it's relatively new. We are having a baby next February, and I am trying to regulate the baby's room different from ours. The problem that I am trying to solve is that my wife and I keep the bedroom at 68 degrees during the night, and I'm not sure that I want to give that up.

As I mentioned before I have a home automation system that I was going to use for controlling each rooms temperature without dedicated hardware. I was going to put in the vent damper found HERE at each of the vents in the upstairs bedrooms, and control the temperature, and vent open and closures programatically, via a I/O controller or arduino. I have motion/temperature/humidity sensors in each bedroom. That said, I don't believe I want to go this route, not that it wouldn't be a blast to try and wire all of that up and program it.

If it's that much easier to add a 3rd zone I may just try and do it without having to add all of that complexity.

Just from a functional standpoint, you would want the mechanically exhausted option. While windows are allowed, they generally don’t exhaust enough air to reduce humidity levels - particularly when it’s already humid outside, and in your situation where there’s air in a limited exterior space so breezes or drafts are unlikely. Also, if the bathroom has no supply air, the window is even more useless, as there’s no positive air pressure in the bathroom to force air out the window.

Least expensive solution: put a through-wall vent above the window. Something like this small vent..

Not sure how you work it out with landlord; but technically, if you do upgrades, it has to meet the current code, so you can argue this costs (much) less than installing a larger window, and will work better.

So, depending on the size of the intake, I recommend using http://www.amazon.com/WEB-WVENT-Vent-Register-Filters/dp/B000BWKMI2 if it is a smaller opening. Otherwise just look up a standard 3M filter baffle that fits the dimensions needed.

Yeah my ideal was a std 4x10 floor register. That would be about 2x the opening of exhaust, which needs to be an inline fan for a carbon filter.

Something like this. I could close half if needed if fully open wasn't creating enough negative pressure.

http://www.amazon.com/Thermwell-HD5-10-14-Adjustable-Deflector/dp/B00B844LSY/ref=lp_13400071_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1463089692&sr=1-4

Panasonic FV-04VE1 WhisperComfortTM Spot ERV Ceiling Insert Ventilator with Balanced Ventilation and Patent-Pending Capillary Core https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XJNZ1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ULBuxbMYQPZNN

Some places in the southern US use the term A/C (air conditioning) as a catch-all phrase to mean the same as HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning).

And yes there A/C (aka HVAC) vents are put under cabinets in kitchens and large pantries. They are vented directly out of toe-kicks (the part of the cabinet that is bumped back in and under the cabinet near the floor where traditional skirting would go. Toe-kick being called that because since it is bumped back, it is less likely to accidentally kick the base of the cabinet with a foot. I dunno why it is a thing but it is.)

https://www.amazon.com/Toe-Ductor-Cabinet-Ducting-Kit/dp/B00CMXXL22

There are also vents that hook up to home, "all house", vacuum systems that are like HVAC vents only they have suction and are used for sweeping floor dust into.

You can get a vent extender and run it under the couch. Like this

Does that utility room have a window? If you do you could simply put a big vent fan and push air out. However, given the volume of your rigs you'd need to cut a hole in the door to allow cool air in.

I've considered getting one of these. For an upstairs bedroom. Since air return path tends to be actually quite important keeping rooms comfortable.
https://www.amazon.com/Tamarack-Technologies-Perfect-Balance-Door/dp/B00NOY6QB6/ref=sr_1_7_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1497498895&sr=8-7&keywords=door+vent

Also you you probably want a single fan if you can manage it. Having lots of smaller fans tends to waste static pressure across the fans. You're much better off getting a single high flow static pressure fan.

Good point on the positive pressure.

That sounds like a good design. If looks aren't important, you could adapt something like ...

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Return-Air-Filter-Grille/dp/B0061MI4ZY

... and use pleated house filters.

Might be able to put screened louvres (sp?) over it. It would hide the actual size of the hole. Would be an epic amount of passive ventilate to complement a roof vent or whaterver.

Edit:
like this, maybe an outdoors one or spraypainted with outdoor paint to match your hoopty.

I got this netting type stuff off of Amazon and put it over my vents to help block dirt and dust from blowing into my room. Something like this. It really helped me with dust, worth giving it a shot for smoke.

It already is somewhat higher than the other doors. Would something like this be worth it?

Tamarack Technologies Perfect Balance 27 1/4 x 4 3/4 Inch In Door Return Air Pathway https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOY6QB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZSPGDbDEB0Y0Q

One soffit vent on one side at the bottom of a wall, one on the other side at the top of a gable.

There are cheaper ones too.

Speedi-Products EX-EVML 04 4-Inch Diameter Micro Louver Eave Vent, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085UZLMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RTsGDbH75CW82


Edit

16x20? You have roof vents? Is it sheetrocked?

Example Options to look at before trying to crack the password

These are not meant for ceiling vent applications

https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Magnetic-Cover-Sidewall-MVCX512/dp/B00009W3G4

These are not meant for ceiling or wall applications

https://www.amazon.com/Accord-APFRDFU-Adjustable-Deflector-Registers/dp/B0052ECJ5I

Is the bathroom positioned in such a way that you could use a through-the-wall vent fan? Like this, for example. It’s not the best kind of fan, but it would be way better than venting into the floor or not having any ventilation at all. That bathroom is going to get gross really quickly without something to pull the moisture.

Could you reroute the vent to center the bed? Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Thermwell-HD5-10-14-Adjustable-Deflector/dp/B00B844LSY/ref=pd_aw_lpo_60_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1RY12HF5JBWGB1BJA56X

It would make reaching the nightstand easier and even things out. Looks great, though. Very nice

Cut these to size and don't forget to remove them before use. You do mean to cover when it not on, yeah?

Throw some of these in the vents. Deduct the cost from your rent.