Best router parts & accessories according to redditors
We found 446 Reddit comments discussing the best router parts & accessories. We ranked the 265 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 446 Reddit comments discussing the best router parts & accessories. We ranked the 265 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Take a piece of MDF, cut a circle in it with a hole-saw or a jig-saw. Use this type of bit in the router. The bearing follows your template.
I LOVE the Bosch 1617 kit. Lowes occassionally has it on sale for $189. There are a few others in that price range that are also worth it I believe.
Some Router tips:
1- NEVER buy a cheap one. An underpowered router, or one that isn't made true will ruin your project. As tempting as a $30 HF router is, all it will do is trash your work.
2- Get one where the fixed base has an adjustment from below the router. This will more easily allow you to make it into a router table down the line.
3- Get something that does a 1/2" shank. 1/4" shank bits ARE available for a lot of things, but you'll break them (and thus whatever they shoot off into, such as projects, tools, body parts) way more often.
4- Get A LOT of clamps. Don't rout anything where you're taking off a lot of material (such as a dado/rabbet) without it being VERY well clamped down. Err on the side of caution, routers can kick back light things really easily
5- This set of bits here: https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S is a good starting place. When you find yourself using one of those bits A LOT, invest in a Freud/Rockler/etc bit.
This is a pretty good deal. but don't let Amazons "MSRP" bullshit fool you into thinking it's the deal of a lifetime .
Hopefully price zombie will back me up here but no store has ever actually sold one of these for $358.00
Not on sale It's a 175.00 router table.
As I said it's an OK deal if you need a tiny router table, but you could build a larger table for about the same price, even if you include a halfway decent router plate
I bought this guy
And it rules, all day long.
definitely not that. Bosch bits arent even that good, and that price is astronomical. I think that seller is offering it well over retail if I had to guess.
Get 1/2" shanks whenever possible.
I started with this set
http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1465239946&sr=1-3&keywords=router+bit+set
Its decent, it covers most of the bases without being wasteful with stuff you'll never use.
I have added to my collection with frued bits when I find that I use it alot, roundover, flush trim, straight bits mostly. And then some others that werent in the set.
Router sled.
Mine is very similar to this one, though you should probably start smaller to fit the sizes you would commonly work on.
You'll need a full size router and a wide flat bottom bit (I have this one). Wider bits for larger pieces to save time.
Brush type universal motor like on leaf blowers will just run slower on lower voltage. No harm at all, a long extension cord would be no different from a motor speed controller.
What kind of router did you get? And what is the collett size?
I bought this set from amazon and love it. It's got the basics you will need for starting out. And, as /u/snuffvieh said, get specialty bits as you need them. But get the quality ones, then.
As for a router table, I had a cabinet I made and put a router table top, Number 6 plan on this list on top of it. I took the drawer out of the top of the cabinet and put in a tip out. Not the best of plans, because shavings get caught in there really fast.
i only have to pay double at amazon.ca
http://www.amazon.ca/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6
i hate amazon, they always lie about their prices. this same table is 174 regular price at homedepot
This bit was recommended in another 'planer jig' thread. I don't own it personally.
Magnate 2705 surface planing bit
http://www.amazon.com/Trademark-Stalwart-Multi-Purpose-24-Piece-Router/dp/B000X47YDE
Most recommended reviews say they are cheap and possibly dangerous.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WUB2JQ/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1413830086&sr=1&keywords=featherboard
Shit's sweet. You can totally make them yourself, but I just bought the one shown in the picture.
For the love of your fingers please buy this:
Featherboard
http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1407-TFeatherBoard-Tandem-FeatherBoards/dp/B000WUB2JQ
I got this cheap set first (on sale for $30 now).
I'll purchase the more expensive Whiteside ones once I'm comfortable with routing.
Here is the bit I used in the router sled.
And yes, the epoxy is just the 2-part stuff I picked up at Lowe's.
I've ordered this bit based on the recomendation of some people on this subreddit: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
There's also a 2.75" but that just sounds kind scary (http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y)
Its a featherboard, it keeps the wood flush against the rail giving you a nice straight cut with less chance of it kicking.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FeatherBoard-Reversible-Replacement-BOW-Products/dp/B01N6UOJ6O - this is the one in the video i think, super expensive for its purpose
here are cheaper alternatives - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milescraft-1407-TFeatherBoard-Tandem-FeatherBoards/dp/B000WUB2JQ/
It depends on the router bit you have, and where the bearing is: top or bottom, there are also some that have a bearing in both places. Beyond that, it depends on the direction of the grain on what you're cutting. A lot of times, you'll want to cut it one way on one side, then flip it over on the other, to reduce tear out.
Yes, that's what that description means. I wouldn't get that router bit though. What you want is a top-bearing pattern bit. [Something like this, though it doesn't have to be this exact one.] (http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457217370&sr=8-1&keywords=router+pattern+bit+top+bearing) As far a brands, I like Whiteside, Amana, or Freud. It's fine to go with something cheaper, you'll just get less life out of the cutters.
You need to make yourself a template the exact size of your mortise and plunge in with the router. The template will look roughly like this. The cleat on the bottom of the template in that image is not strictly necessary; it's fine to just clamp your template to your work piece. Any scrap piece of plywood is fine for a template. MDF works well too, but is softer, so I wouldn't recommend it if you want to use this template a whole bunch of times. It can also be a good idea to make two templates - that way if you mess up and run your router into the edge (which can be pretty easy to do), you have a back up.
I've been trying to find a video of someone doing this, but all i'm seeing are people doing things that are way over-complicated. If you're interested in proceeding like this and you want more help feel free to message me with questions. Good luck!
+router bit set:
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S
+honing jig:
https://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Honing-Guide/dp/B0035Y439C
Make the mallet.
Honing compound: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N20BY2T/ref=psdc_553346_t3_B00HT74364
Combo square:
http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/12-4-pc-combination-square-metric-fractional-usa.html
Dust mask: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-6291-Particulate/dp/B000FTEDMM
Buy a cheap multi-bit set, like this one to get you started. As you work on projects over time, you'll discover which bits you use and which you don't. As you break/dull bits from use, you'll know which are the important bits and can replace them with better quality individual bits. Also, you'll discover that bits come in 1/4 and 1/2 shanks, so you'll need/want to purchase (if you don't already have one) a collet for the correct size bits.
The challenge for buying something for someone that likes woodworking is that you don't know what kind of tools they want/need. Not to mention tools tend to be quite a bit more expensive than the price point you mentioned.
You could consider purchasing them something that will come in handy, if not immediately so. Router bits, saw blades, drill bits, or wood project packs are all something that would see mileage.
Here's a couple ideas from browsing Amazon.
Rosewood Cutting Guage
[Crown Marking Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9KOTQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=ILFECPNG7H6C1)
[Router Radi Guide] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040BNLRO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1EHDP8Y8SGNEO)
[A Flush Trim Bit for Patterns] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1TEA98C23FQ2D&psc=1)
Edit: I should point out that not everyone may agree with this list. This is just stuff that, in my experience, is either a Quality of Life type item or something that people have to buy as bits tend to wear out, etc.
the bosch 16171 is only 150 without any sort of base and the under-table mount can be added for $70. or, you can build your own mount for it for a few dollars. that's an excellent router for a table IMO.
The router is one of those things that initially I was not interested in. But I was working on a project and realized a router would be the best way to proceed. So I got one and started playing with it. And now I am in love with it.
> dangerous
Sure, at first it seems so, but I got a pair of these push blocks and now I feel a lot safer. In general, I love the push blocks; they even make me feel a bit safer around the table saw. Now that is a power tool that scares!
> time consuming to set up
This is one area where the INCRA router set up really shines! Started off with a cheap Benchtop Router Table and it took forever to set up a new cut. And god forbid I should need to go back and re-do a cut. One of the first things I noticed with the new router set up is how quickly I can go from planned cut to the next one. I feel so much more freedom to change router bits and experiment with different ways to get the effect I'm after. Really can just dial in distances to within 0.0004". And return to the same dimension days later.
These keep popping up as recommended bits. I got a set, but haven't used them much. Seem fine and a decent price for a decent selection.
Yeah, I second this advice. I used this bit with good results the last time I used a router sled. With a 1-3/4" cut, it's about 7-8 passes per foot depending on how much overlap each pass.
It's just a set of bits for a router, not particularly rare, fancy or expensive. New set would be 40-100 my guess http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bD4kJ_g469_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=0854NJ7BABDQGVB3ZS0H&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e3873ec3-2071-56f1-b304-96ab142fe7ba&pf_rd_i=3116511 put them on craigslist or ebay and I'm sure some woodworker will pick them up.
Absolutely, I used the instructions that came with it and didn't run into any issues whatsoever. This is the extension I am using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TDLSUS/
I used a 1 3/4 flat bit and took off between 1/8 and 1/4 per pass, sometimes more in particularly high spots. The slab started out very wavy!
Next time I would use longer rails, both for the sled to ride on and for the sled itself, I kept having to move the slab and rails around to get at different areas and it was a pain.
THESE are my most used bits...I use them to cut aluminum and MDF all day long. They're cheap, but stay sharp for longer than you'd expect
I use THESE for engraving...and yes, I use them in aluminum as well
For Vcarving, I use THIS I've probably ordered 3 of these in a 1 year time span but cut A LOT of MDF with it
​
In the beginning, don't buy expensive bits....it's a waste of $$$ until you get your feedrate and DOC figured out. I also highly recommend you download the millrightCNC app for your phone or tablet to figure out your feedrate / RPM / Depth of Cut / Chiploads.
This is the feather board: http://amzn.com/B000WUB2JQ. It comes in a double stack, I used that feature for resawing and it didn't really seem necessary. The individual feather boards are great though!
I love that saw, although I've never used anything else to compare to lol
I want to say you should buy good quality bits as you need them. However, if this is your first router, you likely don't know what bits you need.
Buy a cheap set, replace the ones you burn through with higher quality freud, lee valley, or eagle america bits.
For $140 you can get a much larger Yonico set. The quality is "decent".
I've discovered that for carbide spirals, Whiteside are now as inexpensive as MLCS.
The problem that i see with forstner bits is that they have a point in the center, which will create a little hole below each spot where you plunge the forstner. That's why I suggested using a flat-bottomed router bit in your drill.
Something like this maybe: https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-RU2100-Standard/dp/B000K2BGNS
I like it! Good use of the small space. I'm stealing a couple ideas from you.
Also, how the eff did I not realize that there are router table inserts for my table saw?
I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6
Is there benefit to having the one built into the table saw? Apart from having one less piece of equipment to worry about?
I bought this MLCS set off Amazon as my starter set:
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/
It's been fine - I'm now buying better quality bits when I know I need something and I've replaced a couple of these with nicer versions, but for a basic set this has been a good value for me.
I have this saw. It’s not bad. One cool thing about it is that this Bosch router table top fits perfectly between the rails as a wing. You have to remove the stretcher and tap a few holes in the router table edge, though:
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6
I have one mounted in mine. It works great.
First off, welcome! Second off, don't tell many people what you are doing!!!! Unless you trust them with your life, keep it quiet.
Okay, so running heating elements is okay. That one you listed just screws on.....it is great! I have one 1500w and also use my stove. The stove is the control, and the 1500w stays on full time.
A motor speed controller is what you are looking for to control the elements. I'd only use one really.....stripping you can run two at full power (depending on your setup and cooling), and for spirit run, you can control it with this. HEAT SINK THE SOB! I blew one out because I didn't know I needed to heat sink the back.
Besides that, it's a simple device. A large pot with sealed lid and pipe fittings. Seal with clamps and flour paste...no plastic.
What cooling system do you plan? Leibigs are really easy to make, and can scale up to a large size (or if you like soldering, a shotgun is a more complicated leibig), plus you can take it all apart and store it hidden!
and you are correct....once you actually DO it, things will fall into place, and make sense. That is always my troubles. I get scared of what I'm doing, until i actually do it....and poof, it get easy from there!!
I use the crap out of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NI39WO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this one for V-carving:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ALY4E2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For engraving
https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Titanium-Carbide-Engraving-J3-3001Tix10/dp/B00HC98K2C/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1542727514&sr=1-8&keywords=cnc+engraving+bit
Also, get a 1/8 and 1/4 compression bit
This is the one I use https://smile.amazon.com/Freud-Double-Flute-Straight-12-194/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542225656&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+straight+router+bit+1+3%2F4
I use two bits: a 2” from Infinity and 1.75” made by Freud:
Freud 1-3/4" (Dia.) Double Flute Straight Bit with 1/2" Shank (12-194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o753BbSQZB01S
Or:
http://www.amazon.com/Roman-Carbide-DC1261-2-Inch-Cleaning/dp/B005W18EIW
I am current doing a good amount of slab flattening with a different set up with ho hum results. Is this the kind of bit you use? http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC
new Drill press - Craftsman 12" $189
used table saw - Ridgid $250 http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5299905704.html
new Dewalt miter saw 12" home depot $279
(2) new Sears plunge router 2.5 hp #27860 $130 each $260
used band saw http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5306628654.html $150
new Milwaukee sawzall/drill kit http://www.homedepot.com/p/M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-3-8-in-Cordless-Drill-Driver-Hackzall-Combo-Kit/206284103 $99
(2) Dewalt orbital sander http://www.sears.com/dewalt-5-in-random-orbit-sander-kit-with/p-00926349000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 $50 each $100
new kreg pocket hole kit $99
used Delta jointer $225 http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5262033510.html
(4) new pipe clamp fixtures $11 each plus $25 for the pipe $70
(2) new Irwin clamp sets $33 each $66 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=quick+clamp+12%22&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aquick+clamp+12%22
new 15 piece router bit set $45 http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1448998111&sr=1-4&keywords=router+bit+set
new jig saw $60 http://www.sears.com/porter-cable-pce345-6.0-amp-orbital-jig-saw/p-SPM7634045028?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7
That should put me around $1800 - the rest would be spent on sandpaper, blades, screws, work bench etc.
Good starter bit sets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S?keywords=mlcs%20router%20bit%20set&qid=1449426804&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I can't speak for others but I def use a round over bit the most. For that, I use the freud roundover quadra http://www.amazon.com/Radius-Rounding-Over-Bit-Quadra-Cut/dp/B00004T7FL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449426867&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+roundover+bit
Any decent bottom cleaning router bit. I use [this one](Yonico 14976 1-1/2-Inch Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit 1/2-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZM20GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vikVCb82PFRBK) most of the time.
Sure, http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426809525&sr=8-1&keywords=ra1811
I am not entirely sure what is going on with amazon. They appear to be doing 50% Bosch accessories at the moment. However, that includes a good range of things. It appears there are some good deals out there...
Gotcha--regarding the router sled setup--if you're unhappy with the finish, try using a bowl bit. I've got one of these monstrosities, and the rounded corners seem to make tearout less of a possibility, although I'm generally not using mine for end grain . I DO, however, use it for guitar bodies, and I'm generally fairly picky about marring the surface, since my router is used for final thicknessing.
Gladly. I bought 1"x4"x8' clear-heart redwood boards. I also borrowed a router and router bench and bought a [tongue and groove set] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM2AIS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and ran all of my boards through the router. You can definitely buy wood already tongue and grooved which is a lot easier, but I was really specific about the wood I wanted to use so I had to do it myself. If you're going to do it yourself and haven't done it before, definitely test it out on some throwaway wood to practice before you start cutting into your stock.
Once they were all t&g'd I started mounting them against the plywood walls and they just stack on top of each other. I cleaned off all the wood sticking out past the walls with a router template bit. I used Lexel to seal the edges between the redwood siding and the plywood, then cut some 1/8" plywood as trim to cover the gap, you can see me clamping the trim on here. I also had to cut out my doors/windows, etc.
For the outer roof and hatch, I used 1/8in Marine grade plywood. It's super durable, and bent easily over the frame. For the inner roof I used 1/8in maple plywood, and in-between both those layers I filled it with insulation. You can kinda see the process here.
I finished the siding and redwood with Waterlox Sealer & Finish. It's a tung oil sealer, and the finish is marine spar varnish that protects against water, UV...etc. The best part is if it ever needs a new coat you don't need to sand, you just add on a new layer and it kinda 'burns' in.
As for cost....I'm not sure, I stopped keeping track :P - Redwood can get expensive, but I really liked it so I splurged. You can get just as beautiful a finish with pine, which is much easier to find already tongue and grooved. Pine is great as long as you seal it.
Here's some photos of the process and the finish. Please let me know what other questions you have!
Step 1. Download MillrightCNC app on your phone / tablet
Step 2. Purchase these bits on Amazon for dirt cheap : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NI39WO/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Step 3. Make sure you use T6061 aluminum (it is easier to mill)
Step 4. Use lubricant while it's cutting so the aluminum doesn't melt to the bit! (I use WD40)
Here are the settings I used in the vid:
Feedrate: 770mm/min
Depth of Cut: .6mm
Spindle RPM: 17k
​
Here is a pic of the final result of what I was cutting:
https://imgur.com/kLv9LfZ
I bought these ones, hopefully they are good? This is my first router.
So I just bought a new table saw recently. I'm kind of following a similar track of 'upgrading' it with goodies.
Here's what I have to go along with my TS:
Next thing I'm going to make is a bunch of ZCIs, I figure this will come in handy for my next set of projects that will require the dado stack. I don't yet have an outfeed table (limited space), but my latest issue of WOOD has a cool mobile folding one that doubles as a scrap storage cart.
If you don't have a crosscut sled yet, I would make that first. They are made from inexpensive materials, and can be as simple or complex as you like them to be. My first crosscut sled for my old POS tablesaw was made from scrap ply and a chunk of scrap 2x4; it was ugly and kind of crummy, but it did the job. My second version is much nicer, with contoured and shaped fences and much more accurate using the 5 cut method. More sophisticated versions have built in stop blocks, tape measures, or T-tracks for adjustable inserts. I use my sled on just about every single project, as both my miter and circular saw are kind of inaccurate, and not great at making super accurate crosscuts. Plus, if you don't have a dado stack, you can use a crosscut sled to make rabbets and dados across the grain by making repeated cuts. It will take longer, but gets the job done.
Good luck!
You can use a larger bit and just take off less with each pass. Personallyy with flattening a workbench I'd rather be on the side of larger bit, less depth at one time. Here's a decent 1 3/4" flat bottom
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7CZ
I bought this set ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KZM2Z6A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425627797&sr=8-1&keywords=yonico&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51nZHmFaV9L&ref=plSrch ) and have been very happy with them so far. I did a lot of research before deciding on these and am glad that I went with such a large set. The set gives you the ability to experiment with a lot of bits and figure out what you like. As others will say you can always find the ones you use most often and upgrade those to the more expensive brands. This set is great to start with if you're like me and buying bits and experimenting with a router for the first time like I was. I can't tell you how many times I've wanted to try new things and hoped that I would have the bit I needed and found out that I did.
I have used this Yonico 1.5" bit for cutting boards with great success
http://amzn.com/B00KZM20GU
Found my answer...
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1165-Under-Table-Router-Above-Table/dp/B0007VHPFK/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485206475&sr=1-3&keywords=router+raizer#Ask
Needing quick advice on carbide bits, buying today
Which one(s) would you buy and a very brief explanation to why?
This is what I'm looking at:
Amazon:
Hiltex 10100 Tungsten Carbide Router Bits
CARBIDE ROUTER BIT SET - 35 piece 1/4 shank NEW BITS by EDMBG
Router Bit Set- 24 Piece Kit with ¼” Shank and Wood Storage Case By Stalwart (Woodworking Tools for Home Improvement and DIY)
Sears:
Craftsman 30 pc. Router Bit Set
Harbor Freight:
Carbide Tip Router Bit Set 12 Pc
Carbide Tip Woodworking Router Bit Set Pc
Note: I'm intentionally NOT wanting a $120+ starter kit, that's by design. I'm also having to budget for carving tips which are gonna cost about $25 each, if you have a favorite brand you use, let me know - I'm willing to go ahead and splurge a bit more on these bits as I tend on using them far more.
Pretty much any job can be done with a good template bit, but unfortunately you may need different length bits for different jobs (long ones for routing body shapes, short AND medium ones for routing pickup cavities, etc.)
I ordered several "Yonico" bits from these guys: http://www.precisionbits.com/template-trim/ and got them sent to the UK. They are fairly cheap and they've done an excellent job, cut well and are well balanced.
As a starter set, I'd recommend
I also got 2 roundover bits with different radiuses, a dedicated and much larger bottom cleaning bit, a smaller-sized top-bearing bit (useful, but usuall not strictly needed as 90% of jobs can be done with the template bit), a chamfer bit and a couple of straight-cutters which came with my router. I use my template bits more than anything else, followed by the cheap-o straight cutters. The rest of the bits are niche tools that usually only save a bit of time, and do jobs that could be done by hand in a pinch (like rounding over a body edge).
They do offer a specialized set of bits for luthiers, but it's not in stock right now, but it's actually a well picked set, and gives you an idea of what the most useful bits are
PS: Make sure you buy the right sized shank bits, and if you haven't bought a router yet, GET A 1/2" one!
I HIGHLY recommend Triton, if only for the fact they have a built in router lift, so you can build a DIY router table in about 5 minutes (I built mine by cutting a hole in my workbench and then created an insert plate out of 8mm acrylic. it's SOOO nice to have a router table!)
If it is his first router, I would recommend getting the DeWalt 611PK kit. It is a compact router, but it is pretty powerful for its size. I bought the Bosch recommended in another comment as my first router, and looking back, I wish I had purchased the DeWalt first. I find myself using the smaller router far more than the bigger one. Plus, the entire kit is around $160, so you have plenty of money to get a MCLS bit set and still be way under budget.
Just my 2 cents.
Are you using a proper surfacing bit in the router? It makes a huge difference in this application. Here's a cheap one that I can't vouch for, Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eot.zbAEX7S4E
Do you know if there is a kernel for this router?
I ordered these straight bits lastnight as they were cheap and the reviews are decent. At $20 I'm not going to be too upset if they end up being garbage, but at least I'll have something to practice on and get familiar with the router. I have this bit in my cart for order later today- this is the bit I'll actually need for the project I posted about. Is this one decent for the price? Mind you, as of now I won't be using these a bunch so I don't think I really need contractor quality bits that would see daily wear as it's not really in the budget currently.
http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Yep. 36" version.
You talkin' about this? http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-40-102-Extension/dp/B001TDLSUS
It's not hard. I use a Makita RD1101 bought used, which I like because the grip allows me to keep pressure on top the the piece I'm cutting.
I'm struggling with setting up a jib for cutting dados with a router.
I'm using 3/4" ply and want to cut a 3/8" deep dado. I followed this guide and bought this router bit, but it seems way too deep. What bit should I buy to make this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6
Link to it not going through twitter and removed the ref ID
make 5 identical plywood boxes.
you'll probably need additional tools to construct this.
if you can afford it, the makita 1-1/4hp router and a whiteside 1/4" upspiral bit are the only two additional tools necessary to construct both the boxes and drawers. use a straight edge for the guide.
if you want to go with hand tools only, you'll need a rabbet plane.
That is my understanding. Remember to account for the resistance the pre-filter puts up too. When I built my first one I was getting advice from a guy who had built several, his advice was to get a larger blower than you need. It is easier to restrict the air flow by adding a speed controller than it is to replace a 'too small' blower. Start at the lowest setting and work your way up until you reach laminar flow and make a mark on your controller.
Bosch Under-Table Router Base is the table mount. The package came with the router, this base, the plunger base, and a case. $170 total. It was a split package though, not everything in one box.
I have recently purchased my first home with my fiancée, and like all of you, have an enormous list of projects we'd like to do. I am fairly handy and am prepared to tackle any project (with supervision on electrical). All that being said, I have always used other people's tools when working on projects, so I don't have many of my own. I have a budget and would like to purchase all of my tools on Black Friday/Cyber Monday to get the best bang for my buck. I'd like your advice on which tools are the best for my budget.
We are planning on renovating the master bed, bath, and closet, kitchen, mudroom, and the laundry room. I also plan on making a kitchen table, coffee table, cabinets, dresser, etc. The first project is the laundry room and mudroom, which will require tile, built-ins, cabinets, and replacing washer/dryer. I have a tool budget of $5k-7.5k (ideally staying on the lower end) and would like your thoughts on my equipment list.
If you've used any of this below, what did you think? Are there any cheaper or better alternatives I should consider?
Last question: does anyone know where I can find plastic sawhorses that allow me to put a 2x4 across the top, but also allow the legs rotate for easy storage? My dad had these growing up and I cant find them anywhere. I have found all plastic ones, but I'd like to have the wood so I can saw through it and replace it as needed.
Thank you for your help! I look forward to keeping you updated with our projects.
MLCS 8377 15-Piece Router Bit Set with Carbide-Tipped 1/2-Inch Shanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wr2SybQJ8VEMY
I saw this set recommend in this sub. I have the same router as you and I've been happy with them.
I wouldn't have even tried using a ball end mill. They do give really interesting machining artifacts though. Have you tried something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Titanium-Carbide-Engraving-J3-3001Tix10/dp/B00HC98K2C
That's the style of engraving bit I usually use, though it's not often.
If you go the sled route you will wants big dish bit to make quick work of flattening the top. Plus the smooth surface is from the dish bit, you won't get the same results from a straight bit. I think this is the bit I used http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC
Hello, The only suitable Triton would be JOF001. Would this be enough power? Its marked as 1 1/2 hp?
Thanks
I've used a similar setup to finish end grain slices and gotten best results from a 1 3/4” Freud straight bit. Shallow passes with the bit's big cutting area leaves a pretty smooth finish. Minimal sanding (think 15 mins with ROS) to get rid of faint lines.
Also, make sure the wood itself isn't moving at all. That can produce gouges.
Freud 1-3/4 In. Diameter by ¾ In. Double Flute Straight Router Bit with ½" Shank (12-194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rtZHzbA2T2QG2
Good idea for the spacer. I actually had to make my router sled two sided. One side had rails that were one layer thick, the other had two for the thicker stock. So if the boards were too thick for the side with one layer, i could take it down to that size first.
The sides were supposed to be about .065 to about .080 inches thick i was closer to about .055 to .060 in thick. Thin enough to bow out a bit eventually, even though bending adds structure. This was the first thing I did so I didnt quite have the technique down. I found the key was to take small even measurements, as well as to measure often and since i hot glued the pieces down, i had to remember to take into account the dofference that makes, as well as having to sand/scrape away the striations left by the router. I also found that running the router in line with the plunge handles and in very shallow passes helped minimize this.
The back of mine is about 3mm, and I was shooting for about 2.5 final. The front should have been about 2mm, and that ended up about 2.5 the last I measured, but while finishing i actually stripped all the finish off and scraping a bunch to remove gouge marks so I think i emded up closer to my goal anyway.
Forgive the mixture of units, but my calipers went between the two easily and different sources said different things.
This is the bit I used. I boughr it for this project and I have been more that happy with it. If you do make the uke, be sure to practice on scraps for everything you havent tried before. Using the router, you will want to get a card scrapper, it takes care of the srriations in no time.
I was worried about the rails supporting it too. When I got it, the manual said it doesnt need to mount on the rails. Mine is a craftsman, so it's a 4 bolt battern to mount the aluminum extension to the cast iron. This is all it needs to mount to your table, so no rail support.
There are some pre drilled holes that lined up with my rails, but it definitely doesn't need it so I didn't use it. Even with the router and work pieces on it, it's very sturdy. I wish it was a delta saw though because theirs is a 3 bolt pattern and the bolts for it were enormous.
This is the amazon [link](Bench Dog Tools 40-102 ProMax Cast Iron Router Table Extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TDLSUS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_1KSIwb7NH9S2G) to the exact one I bought. I absolutely love it. I also ordered the Bench Dog aluminum router plate despite a few reviews saying theirs wasn't flat. Not sure about the other peoples, but mine was perfect.
I think they look great! Maybe a relief cut on the underside at each end to make it easier to pick up off a table? Maybe a small cubby that is made to fit a bic lighter? I think these are good as is though.
Did you use a router with a bowl cutting bit? I've been thinking about making rolling trays, ash trays, and maybe a sherlock stand?
This is the thing I'm talking about
http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC
Update:
Thanks for the suggestion. Seems others have also made this suggestion so I went with this MLCS kit:
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-6077-Woodworking-Carbide-tipped-15-Piece/dp/B001S2RAWA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504242971&sr=8-5&keywords=mlcs
The issue is that you are trying to do the job of 3 tools with one tool.
Just because you are starting with stock lumber doesn't mean that it is straight and flat. The "right" way to go about sizing stock would be to flatten one face on a jointer, then square one side to that face, then plane the other face parallel to the flat face, and finally rip it to final width on a table saw.
If you are simply trying to remove stock from a board and you don't care about squareness or straightness, you could just use a lunchbox planer for the thickness and a tablesaw for the width.
There is no way I would attempt to run 12' boards through a planer on edge, I think running them through a table saw with a good outfeed table would be much much safer and easier. Maybe a good magnetic featherboard would be a good idea for such long boards.
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZM2Z6A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425627797&sr=8-1&keywords=yonico&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51nZHmFaV9L&ref=plSrch
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
If you buy ANY woodworking tools. I suggest a table saw (duh), a router and a router table. This is also the set I have that I bought to start with. Seems to be working great
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001S2RAWA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can see the bits in the secondary images, the one I used was the first on the left in the second picture. If you zoom way in here you can sorta see how it came out: https://i.imgur.com/XNPFuOW.jpg
I think I have that same router, the key I've found is to just practice the hell out of whatever you're doing on scrap before you actually do anything. I'm sure the 1/4" is slower than a hypothetical 1/2" would be, but it's always given me good results.
You could use a flush trim bit with a bottom bearing, like this one.
You can roll your own or buy pre made.
Here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TDLSUS
I think so too. I got a router bit kit and they seem to be cheaply made. I bought spiral cut up bit from Amazon. Hopefully that'll fix the problem. how should I dial my speed for this bit?
It's a Bosch 1617EVS - 2-1/4HP
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TKHV/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The bit is a Yonico 1-1/2"
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM20GU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It worked well but I did have to remove a lot of material to get it flat and ended up making to passes per side.
I used a 1 3/4" Freud straight cut bit. Something like a Whiteside WS1101 would provide 2” of cutting and be slightly more time efficient I suppose. On this slab the result was pretty good, although given the width of the sled and me leaning over it with too much weight at times, some routes were slightly different. Not much though, but I did give it a 60/100/150 grit belt sand before random orbiting. I used the same process on the maple bench you see in some of the photos. With a smaller sled and not having to lean over the work on the garage floor, the maple top came out damn near perfect and required only finish sanding (there were visible lines on the maple but you couldn't really feel them brushing around with your hand).
One more suggestion is the triton routers - they can have their height adjusted from the top when they're mounted in the table meaning you done need a router lift. Aside from that as far as I can tell (which admittedly isn't very far) they seem great!
Here's a link to the one i have