Best rv parts & accessories according to redditors
We found 694 Reddit comments discussing the best rv parts & accessories. We ranked the 334 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 694 Reddit comments discussing the best rv parts & accessories. We ranked the 334 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
>toilet
That's what they say but I heard it's just a very small chemical toilet.
This is strange. At every campground I've ever been to the power pole at the very minimum has a standard 110 (15 or 20 amp) volt outlet. Usually there is also a 30 amp outlet and less often a 50 amp outlet too. Maybe ask them for a photo of their power connections.
Otherwise you can use and adapter such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55233-Electrical-PowerGrip-Adapter/dp/B00192QB3I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495037845&sr=8-4&keywords=rv+30+amp+to+15+adapter
Though it is not "approved" by Tesla, I have used a 50 AMP extension cord to better deal with situations like that.
Glad you asked, it’s an RV Water Filter from Amazon.
Camco TastePURE Inline Water Filter, Greatly Reduces Bad Taste, Odors, Chlorine and Sediment in Drinking Water (2 Pack) (40045) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6V30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AJ5SCbGRMSNBX
No. There aren't any USB fridges. You might find a toy USB cooler, but it would be useless.
There are 12v refrigerators that will run off the 12v plug in the rear of the X.
http://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CDF-11-Smallest-Portable-Refrigerator/dp/B005X97OHA/
Don't waste your money on anything called a cooler. Their cooling is minimal and virtually useless in warm weather. If the description says refrigerator and it costs under $300, they lie. It's just a cooler
Sorry this is just not accurate. There are only about ten turns of the coil here. I ran it through an inductance calculator and this coil only produces .09mH per conductor. that works out to about .04 miliTeslas at 30A current, which is about 100X less than a refrigerator magnet. So totally immaterial and no issue to use this extension, which is of course rated for this purpose.
The actual risk in a coiled wire is thermal and comes from the wire not being able to disperse heat effectively. This is not a risk for a 30’ wire with ten turns if used at or below it’s rated capacity. The one you show in the photo is rated to 20A.
But this is an expensive way to do it; you could just get a #8 extension cord and it would be a lot cheaper and avoid the coiling issue. For example here’s a 30 foot, 50A extension for about 100 bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ECIP0
Make sure you get a good cables though, don't want to start a fire. Also for the quick220, you need to use two different lines. So it might be tricky. If your friend has a dryer, you can get a 220 extension cable like this one from amazon. Hopefully their's is Nema 14-50, not 30.
Most of our vanventures have been in snow, winter and mountains. We have also spent a lot of time in urban areas where stealth is key.
For insulation, we went with 3m Thinsulate. It is good stuff, easy to install, and safe (health wise, i.e. breathing in the material if you were to do fiberglass).
We did use reflectix to stick in the windows (also covered with black out curtain, and a layer of Thinsulate behind, as windows will have the most heat loss/gain). Reflectix is like a white car, it reflects away the rays!
From what it sounds like you're planning on, I would do insulation. It'll help with temperature changes (especially for the pup), and noise. 20 degrees isn't too shabby, but that metal box can turn into a fridge. And sleep will make all the difference when traveling. Noise too - mountains can have nice noise, but what if you're in the city, or on the side of the road mid-travel, or only place to park is in a crowded campground? Insulation helps with the noise.
Other noteworthy items for us...
We have a custom size bed, and just cut a 3 inch foam topper which we used for a bit, but we didn't realize just how much we were missing out on until my bad back plus turning on my hips in the wood all night led us to make this purchase. It is literally a cloud and I never want to leave bed. It's foam that we just cut down to size too.
We write our favorite parts, and keep track of everywhere we take the van. From an hour from home to other states, we write down some special moments to look back on. The joys of having the van are for those new moments in new places!
They are pretty dope for mellow evenings without the bright, real ceilings lights on.
My partner made one himself, and it is freakin awesome getting HD Netflix on a cold winter night in the parking lot at a ski resort.
Because coffee.
Depending on your battery/inverter capabilities, this should do the trick. We didn't need this, but it sure is nice to have this low-wattage electric water heater when we don't want to boil water outside. Camp stove = need propane (what if you run out!), have to go outside (cold? uncomfortable AND delays the water boiling! in a populated area? less stealthy to boil water on the sidewalk, don't want to look like the creeper in the van parked in front of someone's house) and usually small (water can do so many things (ramen, coffee, tea, oatmeal, etc.) so why limit to one cup at a time?) So it's really nice to have a large, fast way of heating water while being able to stay inside.
Usually more energy efficient and way easier to sleep with some darkness
It's become our "junk drawer" and sits on our counter - just holds all our little doodads that we use more often.
Fresh air, cools you down, and makes sure you're getting enough oxygen in there. (We got it as a way to make sure we don't have carbon monoxide poisoning from a propane-fueled heater too!) Not hard to install either!
The other day, the van battery died (just got old) and so we just waited for the sun to come out so we can charge it back up!
That's all I can think of right now!
Hope that helps :)
The temperature probe is in the main column inserted down from the end cap. It sits directly in the vapor path at the 90 degree turn.
The PID controller has an auto-learn feature; after one setup session (where it bounced the temperature all over the place and recorded data) it can hold the steam temperature incredibly steady at just about any temperature.
Parts:
I'm on solar only, so conventional AC is pretty much out of the question. IMO, even the swamp cooler route would result in too much wet air in the van. I use an [Endless Breeze] (https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-01100WH-Endless-Breeze/dp/B0000AY2Z6), a Maxxair and keep the doors open to provide a (sometimes minimal) breeze. I keep the open doors on the opposite side of the sun, or put up my canopy to keep it shady. Just remember that you'll probably want some mosquito netting to keep the bugs out when your doors are open.
My secret it to avoid humid areas in the summer (usually east of the Mississippi). It makes the days and (especially) nights much more bearable. Still, it will get hot some days. Your body adapts after the first few weeks and it's honestly not that bad thereafter. Source: Lots of time spent in Escalante, Mojave & Southern Arizona in June/July.
Get wheel chocks even if you have the x-chocks.
I like using a hose specifically designed for drinking water. I have one on my RV and the water never tastes like "hose" even when the water sits in the hose for days.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-22783-TastePURE-Drinking-Water/dp/B004ME11FS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495550996&sr=8-2&keywords=camco+water+hose
I actually just finished going through all of this.
1b) I have 2 vent fans installed in my roof, and it does wonders on a hot night. Set one to blow in, and the other to blow out, and you'll get some great airflow. Humidity is another story though. Even with the two fans humidity can be rough, but at least its something.
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If you are worried about solar being too expensive, it really isnt. You can get a full 100 watt solar panel kit for $118. That give you all the wiring, a panel, and a charge controller all at once. Then all you need are batteries, which you can get a set of 4 for $250. You don't need those specifically, but just make sure whatever batteries you get, you make sure they are DEEP CYCLE batteries, and not starter batteries.
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Hope this helps! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask, and I'll be glad to help. Anything to help another vandweller so they don't have to go through all the hell I did trying to figure it all out myself. lol
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you want an ultra low watt density element [https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-02963-Screw-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI], not a high density one. that's why you're getting all that scorch on there.
I have a list of accessories (and links) that I'm going to personally get, I'll shoot them off to you when I get back to my computer. Things like DashCam, upgraded LED lights, phone mounts, paint protections and other interior accessories.
This is what I'm planning thus far (Prices are approximate):
Yes! I'm living in a 2003 Odyssey, so the generation before yours, but I would imagine my experience is still applicable.
I installed a Fantastic Vent this past winter. Pretty simple install once I stripped the inside. I'm not sure of the dimensions for the Maxfann, but the Fantastic Vent is about 14x14". The ceiling of the Odyssey dictates where you can install the vent because the only 14" square space is between the C and D pillars of the van frame.
I cut the hole in the ceiling using a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. The cut took maybe 2 minutes. I secured the vent to the roof with self-tapping metal screws. Sealed it with butyl tap and self-leveling RV lap sealant.
I've done a couple hundred miles of highway driving since the install with no issues. It's also been through some pretty heavy rain in the PNW with no leaks.
Album: http://imgur.com/a/1W9QC
Hope this helps, ask any questions you want. I'm happy to help.
So, the requirement for 75 feet worth of power cable is a "Cover the bases" thing.
They state that they cannot guarantee that you will be within 25 feet (standard length of the cable that comes already in the RV) of a plug in point.
It's a heavy-duty cable that is rated for the amperage, and requires specialized connectors for both ends.
Since RV's come (normally) with a 25 foot cable, you just need to bring 50 feet of cable. Which is good, because its kinda heavy.
Now, I only have the 30 amp version, but I purchased this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004809YBE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It worked nicely, and I believe that they make 50 amp variants.
I haven't had to use it yet (3rd year at Camp in an RV), but it's a nice to have and prevents future problems. I've just stored it.
First year, water pump-in/out packages were interesting. Purchasing it gave you 2 tickets that you traded to the people. They came over, attached a hose to your RV and pumped clean water in. Then they attached a vacuum-like tube and sucked the poo out.
Last year... no experience. Apparently it was a scheduling disaster, and was not well advertised when they were "Out" of the service.
I put together this infographic to show my not-yet-finalized plumbing set-up. I'd love to hear any layout feedback/advice or things I may be missing...
A couple specific questions:
Here are the parts (*purchased):
(A) Camco TastePURE (B) *Valterra Water Inlet Hatch (C) Shurflo 4008 Revolution Pump (D/S) *Class A Customs 30 gal (E/H/M) Sharkbite Ball Valve (F/G) Sharkbite Check Valve (I) *Eccotemp i12-LP (J) Sharkbite Mixing Valve (K) Suggestions? (L) Suggestions? (N) Suggestions? (O/P/R) HepVo Trap (Pipes) 1/2-inch Pex
I am using this one, NeverKink Teknor Apex, 7612-50 Boat and Camper, Drinking Water Safe Hose, 1/2-Inch by 50-Feet Hose though I have only used it for brewing water a couple of times. It doesn't leave discernible taste to the water. I primarily use it for supplying my immersion chiller (with a clothes washer hot water hose on the drain side).
For filter I assume you mean something like https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector-40043/dp/B0006IX87S?
You'll need one or more Heating Elements inside your keg. The one I linked to is for water heaters. You need a 240V hookup, too. If you don't have one, these elements will work on 120V, but you're going to need more of them unless you want to wait an hour to get 5 gallons of water to boil.
You'll control these elements with a PID controller and one relay per heating element. The PID controller I linked comes with one good solid state relay that's capable of switching 240v. The PID controller also supplies you with the temp probe you need to put into the kettle somehow.
In addition to this, you'll need some various connectors, and probably an electrical box. I'd say budget a couple hundred bucks for odds and ends.
Finally, when messing with 240v... or even 120v, you really should get a real electrician to look over your connections before you apply power to it. A: to keep you safer, and B: to keep your investment safer.
I’ve had my model 3 for more than a year and have used the Camco Power Grip Extension Cord Nema 14-50 without issue with the Gen 2 mobile charger in my garage.
Get a pressure limiter to put on your hose inlet to the camper.
Camco RV Brass Inline Water Pressure Regulator- Helps Protect RV Plumbing and Hoses from High-Pressure City Water, Lead Free (40055) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DjnPDb5XWP2Q9
Tire Pressure Monitoring system.
Kitchen Paper Holder Hanger Tissue Roll Towel Rack Bathroom Toilet Sink Door Hanging Organizer Storage Hook Holder Rack
Touch Screen Backup Camera Dash Cam
Bluetooth Receiver/FM Transmitter/Car Charger with Bluetooth 4.2, Car Locator, App Support, 2 USB Ports, PowerIQ, AUX Output, and USB Drive to Play MP3 Files
Wall-Mounted Paper Towel Holder
3-Chamber Soap and Shower Dispenser
12 Volt Oscillating Fan
Bathroom, yes
Shower, no...
I have a 24 hour fitness pass
I recommend this for a restroom
For a shower all you need is a body wash, towels, a poof, water.
Don't over think power, I use 12v USB power banks. And its all the power I need. Although my 900amp battery converter that hook up to my battery is great sometimes..
Someone recommended it for me so maybe try this? http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S? It seems to be working okay but I still dry with towels. Also look up a drying technique called sheeting. Those 2 are probably your best bet without towels or an air blower
I use this filter - https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector-40043/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Camco+TastePURE+Water+Filter+with+Flexible+Hose+Protector+Greatly+Reduces+Bad+Taste%2C+Odors%2C+Chlorine+and+Sediment+in+Drinking+Water&qid=1559231197&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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Which runs into this RO maker - https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ro+buddy&qid=1559231240&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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That I then let run into an unused 6.5gal bottling bucket. I still toss a half a tab of campden in on brew day. Then I build up my water profile with salts/acids from there.
FYI, cheaper on Amazon and Prime eligible
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S
Do yourself a huge favor and buy this instead - Trailer Tire Leveler
30 Gallons is going to take a crap ton of power/time... 15 gallons may even be pushing it.
This is the popular element used in e-brewing setups, but for 15+ gallons you would probably need more than one.
I'm BIAB, so that helps cut down on the space and equipment, but I'm looking at adding [240V Heating Element] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1), Inkbird Controller, and [a basket to make raising the grains a bit easier to manage] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXKJJI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER). Which doesn't seem like too much of an investment to make my brewday a LOT shorter, and a bit easier.
edit: [alternative inkbird controller] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KJZMWSI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1RUFFFCQ74BCW&psc=1). This is the one i am currently considering, but i don't know the real differences.
It is likely that they are also standard duplex outlets at the power box along with the 50 amp plug. In the rare instance that this isn't the case at any RV supply store you can purchase a converter to go from a 30 amp or 50 amp circuit to a standard outlet. Shouldn't be more than $2-3. Just make sure to bring a strip plug along with it as it will be the only outlet.
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55233-Electrical-PowerGrip-Adapter/dp/B00192QB3I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410314617&sr=8-1&keywords=30+amp+to+20+amp+adapter
That's exactly why people filter the water before it goes in the tank. The inline hose filters are only $8 each and then you can drink your fresh water without worrying.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6V30/
Thanks! I am a experiential graphic designer by trade so I've detailed a lot of signs for big things like stadiums, malls, etc. and I've worked with a lot of fabricators to make those signs a reality. Kind of just applied that here loosely. I've never done wood working before so I was on youtube a lot and consulting friends.
It's just a fan-tastic vent works pretty well for the money.
/u/slipperyfingers speaks the truth. Humidity is the enemy in enclosed quarters like you will be using. Penetrating the roof isn't hard, just use a quality sealant and take your time. Lots of folks swear by these...Fan-Tastic Vent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jSNrzbETDEFZZ
Ninja edit: Fixed my crappy reply
[MaxxFan 6200k](maxxair 00-06200k maxxfan ventillation fan with smoke lid and manual opening keypad control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nHrRCbC04J1EH)
You can get a manual opening version that is much lower profile and let's you control how open you want it to be.
But as mentioned in other comments the limitation is that you can't use it in the rain and it's pretty unstable on the lid if open while driving.
Personally I would go with the white Maxxair fan because I don't think it is all that noticeable. Plenty of white work vans have stuff on the top. If you really want stealth, get a used ladder rack and stick a ladder on there to help hide the fan and disguise yourself :)
The web page says it uses 1 1/2 amps. I have a Maxx Air vent fan that uses .1 amps on the lowest speed and is inaudible. I'm sure it is fewer cfm at .1 amps than the 1 1/2.
https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-00-05100K-MaxxFan-Ventillation-Opening/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480448368&sr=8-1&keywords=maxxair+fan
A roof vent with a cover that has a reverse mode for exhaust should do the trick as long as you can open a window elsewhere in the van to pull fresh air from. This is what I went with.
I actually bought this:
Camco Heavy Duty 50 Amp RV and Auto Extension Cord with PowerGrip Handle, 6/8-Gauge, Includes Convenient Carrying Strap - 15ft (55194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OpdhDbBGAK6AH
And carry it in my car when I travel. Has proven useful quite a few times.
get the rvparky app,
https://www.rvparky.com/
an extension cord like this could come in handy. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Extension-PowerGrip-Convenient-Carrying/dp/B002XL2IG8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1Y123U9WYW3S2&keywords=50+amp+rv+extension+cord&qid=1570469444&sprefix=50+a%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3
bring a small generator along for your 110 needs, in my opinion running that would be better than running things from the car.
personally I do not care for sleeping in the car and would find rooms in places with l2 chargers.
https://www.plugshare.com/
This one was recommended to me and has worked great. Camco RV Brass Inline Water Pressure Regulator- Helps Protect RV Plumbing and Hoses from High-Pressure City Water, Lead Free (40055) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gVM5AbWXJT3SX
Edit: changed link to point to 12 volt fan instead of 120 volt fan. My bad. Also, it's fine to wire a solar panel directly to a fan. The varying power levels won't be an issue.
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-SP570804-Go-Gear-Oscillating/dp/B003SS62PS
Could be wired directly to
https://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Solar-Panel-Watt-Module/dp/B00OZC3X1C
You'd have to leave a window cracked and just Velcro the panel to your roof when you park. When the sun comes out, the fan comes on.
I just got this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SS62PS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yuIQyb9A1XSPY
Then connect it to one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KNPFUUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0xIQyb8R6CDQ8
This model fan doesn't seem to have any speed control, just on or off and oscillate on or off, but it does the job.
https://youtu.be/Kvb3lxHHFJU
You can buy a 12v fan that runs off of a cigarette charger in a car. Then you can buy a $100 deep cycle marine battery and run the fan for almost two weeks. You can also use the battery to charge your phone. All in, for less than $150, you can charge your phone and have a fan for over a week without power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SS62PS/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLX78/
The Ventline VP-543(Also known as the Ventline Vanair) is under 2.5 inches tall. I know it's 6-inch popup fan, but I think that's the smallest rooftop fan you can find. Of course that's not saying much when the low-profile Maxxair's are only 3 inches...
Another option is to have a super low profile vent(also called "scupper vents" and "canopy vents". Mostly found on australian websites) and attach a separate fan to the interior portion.
It needs to be a cable with a thick enough AWG to handle 30A and it needs to have the correct connectors on it. This is an example of what (I am assuming) is needed.
I literally posted this thread yesterday:
https://www.reddit.com/r/CampEDC/comments/biwoof/hey_rv_campers_just_a_reminder_if_you_bought_the/
You will need one, they will not have it there for you. The onboard may not be long enough.
Yes, buy one.
For bigger tailgates (like Opening Day) I have a small toilet like this one that we put in the back of the SUV with a small curtain around it. 50% tinted windows help too. It may sound weird but it beats waiting a half hour to pee. I just stick it underneath the car when we go in for the game so that it doesn't heat up and stink up the car. I know miller park 'banned' these but I've been doing it for years.
My only rule is #1s only.
For smaller tailgates just pee in a bottle if you don't want to wait in line? Idk what else to tell you.
Just get hot showers via gym memberships, truck stop gas cards, couchsurfing website.
Public toilets, also stuff like this, composting toilets.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-41541-Portable-Toilet-gallon/dp/B004SFKJIQ
It just comes down to being clever. Hell, people put wood stoves in vans.
Paying rent is overrated.
I've been living in my jeep Cherokee for about 2 months and have this . I have it in the passenger seat floor. Its an actual freezer/fridge, that's nicely low power and battery saver mode. Great for ice cream across Nevada. :-D
If I ever have a passenger its really light and easy to pop in the back and they have a seat.
Battery operated column candles. I got mine from Ikea but have seen similar at Costco. I like the warm tone of them, they turn on and off with a shake, so they're really nice to have bedside. Bright but not glaring. They feel like having candles, without the risk of burning down the camper.
Oh, and OMG, this thing is a must for RVs, tent trailers, etc: Andersen Hitches 3604 x2 | 2-Pack Camper Leveler & Chock Set | Best Camper Leveling Kit | RV Leveling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pMMjzb05ST2TK
I don't know how anyone levels anything without it. Worth every penny for how quickly it makes setup.
The Coleman two sided camp sink was also a good buy.
...I could go on. I love camping gear.
When we had our trailer these things made it super easy to level it up.
I use this product by the same company as /u/TheRealFender, It hooks up to standard hose outlets.
Just get a RV inline water filter and PH neutral soap like Adam's Car Soap, CarPro Reset, Optimum Soap, etc.
You could try this,
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2EGK8WK9JXGE6&coliid=IO0LTGPQVRUKY&psc=1
A few more things:
Camco 40043 TastePURE RV/Marine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Camco RV Brass Inline Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are fun but not a requirement:
MPOWERD Luci Solar String Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYPDPKC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
MPOWERD 1004-005-001-002 Luci Lux... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JSCMPG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Again not a necessity but I like it, keeps your water house pointed down not out
The Everything Candida Diet Book:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD03K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Love this because depending on where you are, it’s really nice to have an extra water source for washing things and keeping dust down on the road
2wayz All Metal Body Garden Hose Splitter. Newly Upgraded (2017): 100% Secured, Bolted & Threaded. Easy Grip, Smooth Long Handles y Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MS0HK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOhxDb2J6NVSQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3RNMHBSOH8GXS&colid=P2WFDBOTH8XS
There's been a review or 2 on here about this (or a VERY similar) filter. I don't own one, but they seem to work ok for the hobbyist.
example RV filter: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector-40043/dp/B0006IX87S
I have very hard water in my area and feel your pain. I bought this to hook up to my hose when I wash. Keeps the water clean so I can keep the cars looking good. Very cheap and should last a long time if you only use it when you wash the cars. Can't recommend enough
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_BhIPCb28QJDE7
I have a pool, so I have a kit to test chlorine, alkalinity, pH, etc... It's accurate from 0-5 ppm of chlorine.
I get between 1-2 ppm of chlorine in my tap water depending on the time of year. My fridge filter and this Filtrete take out 100% of the chlorine.
I tested a different Camco RV filter last year, and it only removed about 50% of the chlorine. It also affected the total alkalinity which was very strange. I'm not even sure how that's possible, but I repeated the test multiple times.
Anyway, it looks like your Camco is superior (e.g. 5 micron vs 100), so hopefully you get good results.
You could look at something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006IX87S?pc_redir=T1
Once you test it, these guys (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006IX87S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) are pretty cheap and work well. They hook up to a hose and last a good while.
Fellow Chicago brewer here. I've done a few batches from straight tap, and while they turned out tasty, there was always something a little... off about them. I recently picked one of these up and it's greatly improved the quality of my brews. All of the breweries that you listed don't use straight tap, but run it through a charcoal filter first, which is exactly what I've listed here. (If you do pick this up, you'll also need a relatively short food grade hose since the filter doesn't come with one.)
Look up the "Bal RV leveler". I spent a couple of years driving on and off of blocks until I found this thing. Look for one somewhere at a decent price and then grab one. You can pretty much pull into any unlevel lot, toss that thing in and be level in minutes. That used to be the most frustrating part of the journey for me.
https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=32ACOBN2CM89R&keywords=bal+leveler&qid=1564579078&s=gateway&sprefix=bal%3B+%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-3
Best investment you will make.
Look for a single axel locking chock or a Bal single axle leveling jack. This will reduce movement from the wheels moving.
BAL 28050 Light Trailer Tire Leveler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PgjnDbAFSK55S
BAL 28020 Single Axle Tire Chock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UGPEJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MhjnDbYSRYTW1
https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA
There's the cheaper other ones toward the bottom of the page.
I recently installed an element in my kettle. I ordered the following element, locknut, and o-ring from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GXF5EO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWPNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll just need to get an appropriate adapter.
There are versions for both types of connection:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerGrip-Durable-Electrical-Adapter/dp/B00192QB3I?
For removing chlorine from tap water we were discussing ascorbic acid.
(I ordered some actually) How do you think that would compare to using an inline active charcoal filter like the one in the link when doing water swaps.
Camco_Active_Charcoal_Inline_water_filters
I have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IG8
There's a 30-foot version, but they're surprisingly bulky and heavy, about a pound per foot.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ECIP0
Whatever you get, make sure it's actually rated 50A/120kW, there are some on the market that can only do 20A or something, and the UMC will refuse to use it at all.
> https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55194-PowerGrip-Extension-Cord/dp/B002XL2IG8/
I saw a 30' version available as well. Should it also be fine or will there be a power drop due to extra length?
I'm assuming my friend's place will have the three pins version because the home is more than 40 years old. How about this adapter from the same company as the extension cord?
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-ABS-LID-Create/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=fantastic+fan&qid=1551384781&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Fantastic Vent for his roof.
https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-ABS-LID-Create/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1480386811&sr=1-1&keywords=fantastic+vent
Maxxair 00-06200K MaxxFan Ventillation Fan with Smoke Lid and Manual Opening Keypad Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WmimDb9JE62K0
First, my needs:
Second, the components:
Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!
Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.
Oh well, here are my products:
Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&psc=1
Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&psc=1
House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1332302&ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&pt=03321&ppt=C0005
Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN
Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&psc=1
LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&psc=1
Busbar: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-MiniBus-Grounding-Terminal/dp/B0058GA4IO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467345205&sr=8-11&keywords=6+terminal+bus
Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&psc=1
I calculated that I would be using ~75a per day and everything will be drawing 12v DC.
I bought
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Starter-Wanderer/dp/B06X41H7Z1
I'm planning on running
https://www.engelcoolers.com/mt35f-u1.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OWAIB8
Total =~75amps daily.
I figure the panels will generate between 75~90 amps per day.
I will have 200 amps of deep cycle sealed acid as my bank.
I don't plan on connecting to the alternator, the solar electrical will be isolated.
My question is, is there any need for me to get an inverter if everything I'm running is 12v DC?
I got this one for a 14-50. I believe the same works for 14-30.
Camco Heavy Duty 50 Amp RV and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IG8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I don’t have a 5th wheel, but a travel trailer.
In my experience I have to chock one side of the trailer tight to eliminate the wiggle.
So using one of those chocks that fit between the tires and you clamp down I would anticipate will resolve your issue.
My 20’ is a single axle and I use this.
Mechanically I could only see the tripod as helping with vertical and not lateral motions.
This would be a great time to purchase a x-chock. If installed correctly tires will not move.
X-Chock Wheel Stabilizer - Pair - One Handle - 28012 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XLHUQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O4MSCbWNPTA9A
https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG
​
BAL X-chocks work well. Really help with stabilization.
​
Have camped all over the country and have never heard of the 'no plastic block' thing.
Ohh and I wanted to share this incase you wanted a bit more stability. huge difference.
Upvote for what sounds like the best answer. Test this by reducing the water pressure at the source and then retry your bathroom fixtures. Solve the problem by installing one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Pressure-Regulator-High-Pressure-40055/dp/B003BZD08U).
Ask and you shall receive! You can save over a dollar fifty on this nifty pressure regulator that is definitely the exact one you need! You're welcome!
Do you think it could be replaced with something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Pressure-Regulator-High-Pressure-40055/dp/B003BZD08U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541378815&sr=8-3&keywords=hose+pressure+regulator
Without a generator your only option is battery power. A small fan like this one should run for around 40-50 hours on a fully charged car battery.
Reviews on this fan claim it can run up to two nights on six D-cell batteries.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00407CK5W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
We are most likely going to roll the dice with a generator. I have had good experiences with them in the past so I hope it hold up.
But, this is the 50' that was recommended to me in the RV community... Your RV will come with 25' already and no one reported needing more than that last year from what I read, FYI.
Camco Heavy Duty RV Auto Extension Cord with PowerGrip Handle, Includes Convenient Carrying Strap - 50ft (10 Gauge, 30 Amp) (55197) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004809YBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c96UBbE4B439Y
If your brother will allow you to use his bathroom at specific times of the day you could get one of these and empty it every few days:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-41541-Portable-Toilet-gallon/dp/B004SFKJIQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_201_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31o62v345UL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=42105QHT69TP4BJVD42M
Do you need to use a lot of soap for showering? I tend to shower with just water on my body and a bit of shampoo in my hair. if you aren't using harsh soap chemicals I don't see what would be so bad about discharging to the yard it shouldn't be particularly different from rain. They make expensive soaps made for campers in the wilderness that might be ok.
Ooooh, wow, I loooove that van. Everything about it is just awesome looking!
Anyhow, not a female, but on my camping and on adventures I've had lots of advice passed along from them. For things like vandwelling and longer adventures, I think the number one concern and thing that came up was waking up and having to pee.
Some resolved this by way of having a portable RV toilet setup that they toted along with, similar to this: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004SFKJIQ
I have one of those I bring with me on remote camping expeditions, especially, as it's very handy.
In more constrained situations, a pee bottle is typically used and is entirely functional. Folks, especially backpackers and other 'dwellers mention http://www.thepstyle.com/ as a great investment to allow them to use said pee bottles effectively, too.
Outside of that, carry an extra jug of gas as a 'just in case' situation and test the condition of your batteries and how well you can boondock with them (not connected to shore power and not getting the batteries actively recharged by driving.) Also, a portable jumper pack is an AWESOME investment, as that extra juice and get you out of a jam nicely, and if someone else is stuck with a dead battery, it saves you the trouble of having to use jumpers and doing vehicular gymnastics, which can be annoying.
If you want a shaded/shielded sitting area in remote areas, an awning can be a nice addition if you can afford one, and investing in a nice outdoor welcome mat/runner is super handy for if you're hiking or just want to take your boots or shoes off before you enter the camper.
In the woods or, again, remote locations, you could have a compact hammock on hand that you can set up to give yourself some more seating/laying about options, too, the value of which is hard to quantify when you're feeling claustrophobic from being inside the van too much.
Anyway, just a few thoughts for you! Have awesome adventures, and check in to let us know how they are going once in a while. =)
Toilet type issues can be solved easily and cheaply, but there are draw backs.
We have one of these - just a port-a-potty really. But until we get blackwater tanks and everything sorted this does the job.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-41541-Portable-Toilet-gallon/dp/B004SFKJIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501018052&sr=8-1&keywords=porta+potty
Running water? Get a manual pump that connects to a 5 gal water tank. https://www.amazon.com/Wealers-Camping-Gallon-Manual-Drinking/dp/B00QLRCTUU/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1501018150&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=manual+water+camping+pump
We started our build in May and we've camped in it twice now... each time it's less like camping and more like a home.
We have a fridge, 4 bunks, master bedroom, bathroom (walls only) shower (walls only) living area, kitchen (no water yet). We're probably $10k into it and I've been working on it an average of 10-20 hours a week every week since may.
Bus, RV and Van all have pros and cons.
One article that turned me onto a bus was http://www.technomadia.com/2011/06/why-a-bus/ Specifically the heading A Bus???
If you have room, time, money and know how and want to make something uniquely yours, a bus would be a good fit.
If you want to move into something right away an RV could work out nice.
If you both want something uniquely yours but have less time, money and space, van dwelling can be a nice step into this type of living.
Here is the link for the MaxFan. https://amzn.com/B0050EEO94
It's very quiet on the lower settings, it had a digital speed control.
We toyed with that idea but the amount of hardware and space it was going to take up just wasn't worth it.
When camping, we can usually position the van in a way that is level-ish, or with our heads slightly raised. It's actually not too hard to do this with a small van in most boondocking sites. We can double our flexibility by sleeping with our heads on the opposite side of the bed as well.
You can also get trailer levelers like these which are micro-adjustable. I've seen them used for tow behinds quite successfully.
But the bed idea sounds cool if you can manage it!
/u/MCThrowback's advice is solid. A filter will help too. Something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S
I've been using a Camco TastePURE Water Filter paired with a Camco Premium Drinking Water Hose and have not had any issues.
I run all my tap water through this https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S along with a "drinking water hose" it works out great!
http://imgur.com/a/aNmnD Dried with ammo hydrate, engine cleaned with APC 1:4 and dressed with 303. Still having some issues with water spots, I did wash at 2pm but it was fairly cloudy. Should I buy this and see if it helps?
Maybe, but you don't really need a tutorial. Just get a filter like this and run your water through it with the hose valve at about 50-60%. Then brew.
Potable water hose along with a hose filter.
You can buy a filter that connect to the hose.https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S
and use the drinking water hose.
You are welcome
BTW, if you are new to hot tubs I recommend this
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/84-How-do-I-use-Bromine-in-my-spa-(or-pool)
This is the easiest and cheapest way to run one, chemical-wise. Be careful not to buy splash free bleach it has soap in it (learned the hard way).
Also I use this to fill (I am on a well):
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S
Not to take business away from Midwest, but I think there are better options for water filters. The RV water filters are easier to find, and so are replacement parts, plus they'll hook right into your lawn hose.
@$20, 100 micron filter
@$50, 5 micron fliter
I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S
I've never had any troubles with it.
Sounds like you have hard water. You can use a in line water filter to reduce the minerals in the water from your hose bib.
I've been using RV water filters like this with great results, your result will vary depending on your water hardness.
Another but expensive option is the CR Spotless system
Camco 40043 TastePURE Water Filter with Flexible Hose Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_44Gvyb81DXKYH
I get my water from my hose outside, since it's so near the garage.
Is this comparable to the quality filter you're speaking of?
Or is it better to run water from inside with said filter you replied with?
Here you go sir/ma'am. It's called a Camco 40043
I was in GBA awhile back. Haven't made meetings in a few years. Bottling a Belgian strong and brewing 10 gal of Saison tomorrow! I should probably get one of these filters though, just to get some of the chlorine out that makes the yeast sluggish to start.
Welll I wouldn't take it that high on anything if you start with 500 and you want 500 I'd maybe go to 800 and compromise if that makes sense. So if you are 500 add 900 then i'd do like 1000-1200? Really if you can do filtered you need to with that quality of water. They make some basic filters that may be able to help. https://amzn.to/2yJLfJ4 I haven't tested how good it is but worth a shot?
TL;DR: Stubborn water spots would not come off from glass cleaner, clay, steel wool, and acid! Vehicle had to be taken to a commercial detailer to remove the spots. What gives? Also, how do you use Collinite 845? I don't get the impressive results that many users seem to get. My layer of wax lasts 3-4 weeks max compared to the mentioned 3-4 months by users here and in other forums!
 
A friend of mine let me work on his new Volkwagen Golf GTI and he wanted a wash and wax. Since I don't have a lot of experience in auto detailing (even though I have a bunch of equipment), I have not been charging people who have been letting me work on their cars. I don't charge because I feel that I'm still learning and experimenting on other people's cars. The paint was generally pretty clean, didn't feel any contaminates on the paint so I didn't clay it. He already tinted his windows pretty dark.
My procedure was
 
From looking at the windows from outside, maybe because of the tint, I didn't see any water spots. However, when he drove the car home and the setting sun hit the windows right, there were water spots ALL OVER his windows. I told him next day, I would clean his windows and I just tried the glass cleaner and some elbow grease. That didn't work. Next I tried glass cleaner, nano-skin sponge, and elbow grease. That didn't work either. Then I told him to bring it back to my house and I would use actual clay on the windows. That didn't work either! At this point, we rewashed the whole car to try and see if that would help. It didn't! We work together at a dealership and he brought it in to the shop to see what they can do. The shop tried the steel wool but it didn't remove everything. Next they tried some acid and it helped a little, but didn't remove everything.
 
He ended up paying a detail shop $120 to redo his entire car and they removed the water spots by using a steel wool and some "pink stuff" (according to my friend). I am paying my friend $60 because I feel terrible and I pretty much caused the spots to happen. What I find odd about this is that when I wash my own cars and my girlfriend's cars, they do get water spots but they come off when I clean them. Any idea what caused the water spots on my friend's car to be so stubborn? Does the glass from different car manufacturers affect how water spots stick to it?
I just bought a Camco Water Filter and will attach it to my hose/pressure washer and hope it helps. Any other recommendations on how to avoid that in the future?
 
Also, I feel like maybe I'm using the Collinite 845 wrong. I've read many posts from users indicating that their 845 will last 2-3 months easily. I've only had my 845 last 3-4 weeks maximum. My friend's coating of 845 didn't last a day it seemed. After we washed his car a second time, he said it didn't feel smooth anymore, as if we stripped some of it off with the Honeydew foam. Can you guys provide me with some information about 845? I've gone through half the bottle already and I bought it February 2016... I see posts from people saying their's last years. I use this wax on daily driver cars. Personally, I can't park my car inside a garage either, so it's exposed to the elements 24/7.
The recipe didn't mention anything about pH from the source water. Truth is, I haven't even gotten that deep into brewing yet.
I pull my source water from a house with one of those RV water filters: https://amzn.com/B0006IX87S
I'll go test the pH now though.
Only mildly detailing related...
If I get this: http://amzn.com/B0006IX87S do you think it will reduce pressure enough to make a SunJoe Electric Pressure Washer unusable? I want to get a filter so it's not the end of the world if I don't dry the car, but I want to make sure it's not a waste of $20.
I also have a kid and a popup. http://i.imgur.com/Cltv8qq.jpg. we love it. I plan on doing a spring over for more ground clearance. Yours looks great. After you use it a couple of times you will learn what works and what's not needed. Here are a few of my recommendations. The bal leveler is great https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA. This and installing a T level gauge on the tongue will make leveling the trailer super easy. We got a bunch of plastic bins from home depot to store all our supplies in. They are all the same so the stack and work great for storage. If you know you can fill the water tank at our near your camp site tow it empty and fill it there. That will save a lot of dead weight. If I can think of more I'll post again. Enjoy it man. Camping with the family is great. Good memories will be made
I use a tire leveling jack like this: https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=trailer+tire+jack&qid=1565620404&s=gateway&sr=8-9
It's a little more manual labor, but there is no guessing and checking if it's level, then moving the vehicle. The tire is very securely in place, so you don't have to chock that, and it can handle a fairly decent slope.
I don't think it would work very well for an RV or something heavy, but for a light trailer it works well.
I recently started looking at what I'd need to convert to electric and it looks very doable for around $100. You can get one of these and a heating element like this. Since you already have the 240V hookup for your dryer, it should be pretty easy to set up.
I haven't actually done this yet, but a coworker uses this setup and he likes it a lot.
On top of the boiloff rate you will probably scorch the hell out of the wort with that element. The 6500 watts look to be spread over too little surface area. I've used a 4500w element that looks to be of similar size and my beer tasted like burnt porridge.
May I recommend the tried and tested 5500w camco ripple element?
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-14-Inch-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI
You're gonna need some sort of controller to tune it down when you're boiling. I Use 60% to maintain a good boil in 50l boils. Here's my system: http://brew.is/blog/2011/10/20-gallon-boil-kettle-electric-biab-kettle/ . I haven't written up something about the controller, but I'm using an auber instruments 2362 PID controller. It's used to control the mash temperature and the boil.
The electric heating elements are Ultra low power density (50W per sq. inch), so no single point on the heating element will get hot enough to carmelize the wort.
I had the same question when we were debating whether to go electric or not, but after some research I found that electric brewers don't ever seem to run into that issue. It is more Internet folklore than anything.
These are the elements we will be using: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-14-Inch-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI
Sure, it's pretty much the standard these days:
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-In-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI
Excellent, you seem to be getting all of this very well. I wouldn't try to rip out an element from a hot plate and somehow insert it into a keg, hot water heater elements are purpose made for this and the right tool. They aren't expensive at all.
My heating elements are camco: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI
If you can follow directions, you can build a very simple control box by yourself.
Herm coils are easy to make, too, in case you change your mind.
I still had 3 or 4 bars of charge left. I think it's not pulling the 240v with the second adapter. It seems like it's taking 2 hours for a quarter charge.
Okay so question because I’m currently hooked up at a family members house with our first rig. In her backyard (where were parked) she has a septic system with two outlets (both on separate breakers, both 20AMP). One of the outlets is for the alarm and other for the pump. So I have our rig plugged into the alarm (20AMP) breaker. I run a 50ft Camco 30AMP extension cord from there (connected to the outlet using a 30AMP to 15amp small adapter, like no cord just a small 2” or so box) to the extension cord coming from the TT. Is this unsafe? If so what should I do to remedy it? I can’t get an 30AMP outlet installed here. And we won’t be staying long term, but we have to run the AC (on low) while were gone for the pets. We haven’t had an issue, just when we need to use something power heavy well turn something off in exchange. Like if we need the water heater, turn off the AC, need to microwave then turn off the water heater, etc. been here for about a month now and have only popped the breaker twice (both instances from leaving the AC while taking a shower and the water heater kicked on).
Edit:Links and formatting (took me a minute lol)
I can get about an $8k tax credit where i live for this elextric vehicle so just a littlr more expensive. The minivan can plug into a regular household outlet. It just takes 12-14 hours to charge instead of the 2.
I don't suppose that means I can plug into a regular rv hookup. With an adapter like the one below maybe? There are also public charge stations available though I think they are spaced out
Yes, the 33 miles travel limit before it kicks into gas is limited. Is there another electric hybrid that can go further before it uses gas even if it's a little smaller?
If I bought a fuel based vehicle, I'd probably buy a used one. It was the electric aspect and the large battery that attracted me to this vehicle.
EDIT: Yeah, that 33 mile range is a real killer. Gonna have to look at some other electric vehicles.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00192QB3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502808578&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=15+amp+to+30+amp+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41d6fEwak1L&ref=plSrch
r/O water is too much of hassle honestly, unless you really need it.
But if you're going with neocaridina you wont need r/O either way.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Chlorine-Sediment-40045/dp/B0024E6V30/ref=zg_bs_10806177011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A2015Y4FFMQ9RWDEQFB6
I'd test something like this, now i don't know wich excact one would be the best, but you're probably smarter than me so you can figure it out with some research!
Good luck man!
I used these RV water filters before I switched to RO water. They may suit your needs.
Want to make your tub even more therapeutic? go salt water? usually between 2500 and 3000ppm about the same salt as what is in human tears. then use a chlorine generator . it creates small amounts of Chlorine gas from the Chloride in Sodium Chloride (salt) and then after it sanitizes it turns back into salt. no buying chlorine granules, you just drop it in your tub when you leave. I use this generator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QC5UZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
also when you go to fill your tub put one of these on the end of your tub https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024E6V30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I rarely have to add any chems to my tub just about once a month adjust the PH but that's it . I used to have to reset my tub (empty and fresh refill) once ever 3-4 months . now i do it once every 6-9 months and that's just because. I could probably go a year without any issue.
>and I need a charger installed on the wall. Is that right?
Since we're all Tesla nerds, the charger is actually in the car. You're installing electric vehicle service equipment (EVSE). The outlet, really.
But yeah, outside outlet is fine - that's what I'm doing. Run two 240-V lines each with a 50A breaker, or one 240-V lines with 100A breaker. There's plenty of outdoor/weatherproof covers. My existing one (for our barn, but it's a 14-50) is pretty ugly, but I'm sure you can shop around. And most are pretty wide, but again, just look for 14-50 covers. You could also do one on the left and one on the right instead of the middle pillar. Tesla has its own connector, the HPWC, for the same price as an extra UMC. So you can use a 14-50 and the included UMC and not have a spare one for the trunk, or use a UMC and buy a spare UMC, or use the HPWC and keep the UMC in the trunk. The HPWC looks nice and is weatherproof, but only works for Teslas. I'd go with the UMC for flexibility (and $500 cheaper if you don't mind not having a spare, or put it in your trunk each day).
Retractable is tough - the Model 3 UMC cable has a big blob on the 'house end', so it won't go into a reel. There are UMC organizers which make it look less crappy at least.
I'm still debating on where to put mine - my wife gave me the okay for an outlet on the front of the house, which makes things easy. Tromping to the side of the house, especially in rain, wouldn't be fun, but it would look neater. Also note the cable is only 20' (24'?) long, which isn't much, especially if you want it resting on the ground. I had a parking pad built just for the Model 3 and I still had to buy an extension cable unless I get the outlet right up to the corner of the house. Anyway, my point is that the cable will probably be pretty ugly, so I'd talk to HOA now. I refuse to live with an HOA and can do whatever I want, and even I still might do the side of my house because cables are ugly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024ECIP0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
Here is what we had in our class-B Sprinter RV. Simple, and an easy install, and good quality product. In our class-A motor home, we have these.
The price differences are basically features (remote, automatic shutdown when rain is detected, power opening, etc.)
I haven't purchased or used it, but this one is cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3C40WVWALRSCI&coliid=I21GXH27DG2453
Its a fiberglass high top for a van. Just got done cutting a hole in it and installing a maxx air maxx fan.
I'm getting super lost trying to calculate amp usage and determine necessary battery size. I've read the FAQ a few times and it's not helpful for cases I keep encountering.
For example, this fan doesn't list watts anywhere, not on Amazon, not on Home Depot, not on the manufacturer website. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ Some comments say it uses "3 amps" others "5", I have no idea how to use this information.
Then on things like a fridge (Dometic CFX 50US), it says: Rated input power (AC) 50 W . Does this mean it uses 4.16 amps an hour? This would mean 100 AH per 24 hours. Although Amazon comments say it uses much lower than this, one person saying 18AH a day. Stuff like this is super confusing because I don't know what number is accurate or what I'm supposed to plan for. Should I plan for 100AH? 18? 50? 69?^(nice)
Does anyone have some videos that help explain this because I am so confused.
Camping world, in general, is grossly overpriced on a lot of things.
I'm gonna be honest and say that fan looks like shit. Sorry bro. I'm just not sure id want to skimp on such an essential part of the build, and when you compare it to the batteries and plywood, it's really not that pricey. For me, it's essential to keep moisture out with some good air flow.
This doozy has treat me pretty well. The rain cover is much sleeker and can be up while driving. That's shweet. Maybe I'd have gotten the remote. Idk.
No, I haven't. I have a boat that has these hatches, but I have not installed or serviced them yet.
I bought a Maxxfan deluxe for my van. https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-00-05100K-MaxxFan-Ventillation-Opening/dp/B002OWAIB8
because I wanted the fan feature. I haven't installed it yet, though. Maybe I'll put in one of each, so I can have a good intake and an output for circulation.
If I just wanted an openable skylight, I would go with the marine hatch. Marine hatches are significantly more expensive - they are built to be stronger, more durable, and water proof. You can even walk ontop of them. They need to perform all these functions to be able to prevent a boat from sinking. They also can be big enough, and open wide enough for you to climb in and out of. Would be cool to be able to go up on your roof - from inside the van.
I imagine that installation is about the same. Cut a hole in the roof ( scary ). Apply liberal amounts of marine sealant, screw it in to adequate backing boards.
You could also buy a 14-50 extension cord, but if you have the money, a dedicated EVSE would probably look cleaner. I have a Siemens VersiCharge myself (the '18 Leaf isn't my first EV), but you'd need yet another adapter since you don't have the right outlet for that.
Sure, this is the one I bought: Camco Heavy Duty 50 Amp RV and Auto Extension Cord with PowerGrip Handle, 6/8-Gauge, Includes Convenient Carrying Strap - 15ft (55194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0OXYCb8TQ3ZBG
You'd need an adapter and/or short extension cord to plug the included mobile charger into. Tesla sells the adapter for $45.
If you get an extension cord, make sure it's heavy gauge and not a cheap POS. I got this 50 amp cord and it's a beast. You'd need a 30 amp cord, though.
I also noticed that your rear stabilsers do not appear to have sand pads. These help distribute the load better and you don't sink. I would also recommend one for your hitch. Also, in of itself that wood blocking is going to be rocky.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Stabilizing-Base-Pads-Cross-Frame/dp/B0024E6Z9U/
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-1400700340-Footplate-Pin/dp/B005DLLVMW/
But as another stated, I also use the BAL X chocks and really like them. Although.... a little too much side to side motion in the ocean can cause them to work themselves out. There is a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.
https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/
It's a small circular vent fan: https://www.amazon.com/Ventline-VP-543-Smoke-Roof-Vent/dp/B00407CK5W
It's over my shower area where I'll need a vent for the propane tankless hot water heater and help dry out the shower
I have a 1st generation Odyssey with one of these on the roof. It works reasonably well, but people notice it. I've had a couple of LEOs ask me what it was. I think my next build will have something like this mounted in the floor. It also flows better than the one I have now.
You can look into these.. http://amzn.to/2qlqu0h Not sure how tall they are but seems like a smaller option.
My grandmother lives in a town that has no public chargers. I would probably have to get one of these, drive around to the back of the house, open the basement window, and plug into the dryer outlet. (I have really thought about this.)
Stumbled across this post while ensuring I had the cable I needed to power our RV. There's a 50 foot that uses the connector specified by Insomniac on amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004809YBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The guy at my rental place said there's no issue with plugging two cables together except to be mindful of the amount of power draw due to the cable length (e.g. don't run microwave, ac and a hairdryer all at once).
Get a drinking water hose. Makes brewing outdoors a lot more convenient.
I use one of the drinking water hoses... http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22783-TastePURE-Drinking-Water/dp/B004ME11FS/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1419784454&sr=1-2&keywords=drinking+water+hose
Garden hoses give garden hose flavors. You need to purchase a [food grade water hose.] (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22783-TastePURE-Drinking-Water/dp/B004ME11FS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419776783&sr=8-1&keywords=Food+grade+water+hose)
Later on I will try what you said but since it’s the first time I will play it safe plus I’m on a very tight budget.
I saw this cheap on but it also comes in 1/2 inch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ME11FS/
I’m not sure what standard would be.
Just search “chemical toilet” on Amazon
Would a portable camping toilet help? You can dump the waste tank in the outhouse and it shouldn’t be a problem: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Standard-Recreational-Activites-41541/dp/B004SFKJIQ/
Alternatively, there are biodegradable/compostable bags you could use to line a bucket that could be disposed in an outhouse: https://www.amazon.com/Green-Elephant-Replacement-Biodegradable-Compostable/dp/B079N33LKC/
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Standard-Recreational-Activities-41541/dp/B004SFKJIQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538225132&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=compost+toilet&psc=1
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Standard-Recreational-Activities-41541/dp/B004SFKJIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541377758&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=porta+potty&dpPl=1&dpID=31hF22FyXtL&ref=plSrch
Works great, and seems to store well enough. It's inexpensive and practical. There are probably nicer, more expensive ones you could find, but this serves me well.
They are dirt cheap!
It's great actually we both have our own routines that put us outside of the truck so we only use it for like peeing in morning and before bed. They have a really nice one I'd recommend that I want when I go big like motor home a $1000 one it's the best . I change it about once a week for free and take it to a treatment plant and get flavored tst tabs online for the smell of the toilet
Nature's head https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009Z7EKIC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464768144&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=composting+toilet&dpPl=1&dpID=41k7Tv5c0KL&ref=plSrch
Edit what I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SFKJIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464768144&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=composting+toilet&dpPl=1&dpID=31o62v345UL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SFKJIQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 this one hasn't mentioned fans/vents unless I'm missing something and the reviews are pretty favorable. For $80 I'm not sure you can beat that.
Edit; not sure if it's actually a composting toilet though, I could be wrong on that front
You could. This maxair fan uses a little less than 5 amps on high according to the questions section so you're going to have high drain (relatively short run time) but it's possible.
Something like this should work for a sedan: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CDF-11-Smallest-Portable-Refrigerator/dp/B005X97OHA
Is that like a normal fridge with Freon and a compressor, or is it the gas absorption style like what you'd find in an RV? Just curious since Dometic makes portable gas absorption refrigerators/freezers that look similar to what you've got. https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-080AC110-Portable-Refrigerator-Capacity/dp/B005X97OHA?th=1 Not sure what the 11 liter one draws, but the largest one draws 7 amps at 12VDC
Probably your best bet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005X97OHA/
https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S these.
I use leveling ramps kinda like these: https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S
Or sometimes cut up 2x10s.
But I don't need it very level, and even like the bed raised a bit at one end.
I know a lot of people prefer ones that have more surface area so there is no scorching. look at
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-In-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y
First off you don't necessarily want to use any screws... With the maxair, you cut a square hole and fit in the trim piece. To cut a hole you just need tinsnips and a screwdriver/knife and a hammer/rock to make the first hole. I wouldn't let anyone take a saw to it and put metal shavings all over your house... Just go buy some tin snips, $5.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-straight-cut-aviation-tin-snips-90718.html . Cuts through like butter. Power tools are not always better.
Trace your hole and cut, as long as you have your butyl tape and dicor sealant and fan you will see that spending $375 is wholly unnecesary and hazardous imo. You could end up with a bunch of leaky & unnecessary screw holes, metal shavings all over, a hole cut too big, they probably won't know how to work with the ribs correctly... You need to cut it like this: http://www.seanstoops.com/img/build/build_3_.jpg so that it will sit flush with the roof. Very simple and clever. More leakproof design. http://www.seanstoops.com/2016/01/26/roof-vent/
Unless you live in the desert I suggest a maxxair. I'm getting this one. It lets in light, works in the rain, even while all the way down.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
This is what I found.
Thoughts?
Power Cable