Best satellite tv parts & equipment according to redditors

Yup, I like when my HDCP DRM circuit on the bigscreen I have broke, and I couldn't watch LEGAL purchased HDMI content (like Netflix off my Roku).

Instead, only torrents and "non legit" content would play through the laptop over hdmi at 720 and 1080p.

Something I paid for broke, and made me unable to watch high rez content that I PAID for.

If it breaks, it should stop defeating piracy, and not stop defeating legal use. The people who make this crap are idiots.

I finally bought a $15 Splitter that had the side effect of stripping their shitty copy protection out, and now I can watch ALL my media- especially the LEGALLY PAID FOR CONTENT.

Thanks for nothing DRM.

Or Amazon.com
Edit for link.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458459359&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=viewhd&dpPl=1&dpID=41OoScmjAQL&ref=plSrch

Here's what I'm using:

HDMI Splitter

HDMI to AV converter

HueImmersive

And really any USB AV grabber, as long as it can grab the image it should be fine. Doesn't even have to be a good quality image or high framerate either. I'm also using a long USB extension cable I had laying around.

The colors aren't always perfect since it just takes the average color of the whole screen and it's slightly delayed, but I'm sure if you play around with settings/other programs/light configuration you can get even more accurate results.

You'd need an HDMI splitter to send the output from one Roku STB to both displays. One example is https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

http://originaltrilogy.com/forum/topic.cfm/How-to-capture-HDCP-encrypted-HDMI-sources-Vudu-Netflix-Directv-Virgin-Media-etc/topic/15179/

http://forum.videohelp.com/threads/334145-HDCP-strippers/page11

It's not all splitters that have this "flaw", but some do.

EDIT: For example, this one does, as you can read in the comments.

These are cheap and cheesy, but they strip HDCP.

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/

I've been having success with:

• 10-ft HDMI extension (Monoprice Active Select RedMere): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/
  
• HDMI repeater (Shenfan 4K2K Repeater): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M02Z4FU
  
• 10-ft USB3 extension (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

We use these to rid a signal of that godforsaken protocol

You're gonna want a powered splitter, I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And it works fine. I use it on a monitor, and a television with noticeable extra lag.

If you're using a 1080p or a 1440p monitor, you can use a HDMI splitter to bypass HDCP. Been getting a lot of audio issues with my capture card because of HDCP so I bought this and it seems to fix it. A lot of streamers use the same splitter to stream PS3 games since you can't turned off HDCP.

Years ago, someone recommended that I buy this HDMI splitter to get around the PS3's (or any system's) HDCP protection. I've used it many times and have never had any issues recording PS3 gameplay through it. It's been mentioned quite a few times in this subreddit by various people, all of whom say it's worked well for them.

A receiver has a built-in DAC and would house all the inputs/outputs you would need for audio/visual - it would certainly be the simplest route to take.

You could look for a receiver with dual outputs, or just get an adapter like this one: http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

Your soundbar is most likely powered, so you wouldn't use it with the receiver. I'd get discrete speakers.

Some receivers (like this one http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html) have a headphone jack up front if you wish to connect headphones.

Pretty sure the reason they don't do a guaranteed to work cable is because the one that came with it was the longest to work without needing a repeater in some cases. Snag an HDMI repeater, short HDMI 4k extension male to male cable as a jumper from vid card to repeater and a 3 meter HDMI 4k male to female extension cable. I used the VR extension cable that Bestbuy carried for a couple days. Running this for a month with no issues.

Repeater I used
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M02Z4FU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Short jumper
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SVE6YF2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’m renting a room, and the place has an arris router with built in moca from Comcast.

I went outside where the cable is split, and replaced the splitter with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OTOEIGK

Added this filter to the “In” port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6

Then I enabled moca in the router settings.

Finally I hooked up this adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8Y4N5J

Working great, without the multi-daily disruptions I had from Ethernet over powerline. I have no idea what the full possible speed could be, as we only have ~100mbps line

A Moca device should be compatible with any other moca device. Where you may have problems is potentially with cable or voice stuff, but I can’t speak to that.

Most splitters should be okay. I've run into a shoddy one here or there but they were probably old/broken.

Just make sure you get the MOCA POE filter if you didn't know already, it keeps your network from becoming available to your entire neighborhood.

And it probably won't be a big deal but I've found the Actiontech MOCA 2.0 adapters to be better than the Motorola's in terms of performance.

Oh my bad, I searched for a switch for some reason. Here, this one also comes with a 4-output version aswell. $56.

Edit: Ironically, I ordered a splitter instead of a switch earlier this week for all my game consoles. So I’m left with a splitter I don’t need, not 4K though.

I use a HDMI Splitter for my setup when I record Gameplay footage for my Youtube Channel.

Currently I own this and never failed me since,
http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1450792526&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter

It is powered but its good.

Sure, you just need an HDMI splitter so that you can direct the same signal to two displays. Something like this should work. (I'm not recommending that one, it's just the first one I found.)

Just to be super clear, there's no "setting" to output signal from both HDMI ports on the Xbox One. One is for output, one is for pass-through. The only way to get output to two displays is to use a splitter.

Something like this. That link is for a powered/amplified version as it never hurts.

You can also use a regular 8 port splitter like this.

If you want to do it yourself, you'll need a cable explorer. You'll attach the lights to your internal coaxial outlets, and then go back outside to hook up to each wire, and see which color lights up. Be sure to write down where you put which color so you can label the appropriate wires to where they go. You can use zip tie labels for this.

Now, you know where everything goes, so you'll be able to either hook up every lead to a different source, and troubleshoot your connection if you need to. If you want to run an aerial system, you're going to need a distribution amplifier to overcome the loss of having 8 splits. Every coax port in the house will work with either cable, or OTA, or satellite service.

If subscribing to cable television, have the technician do the connection of the cable feed to the system, You are free to mess with the wiring of your house all you wish, but are not authorized to alter or tamper with cable company owned lines or equipment. Have the technician do that.

It all depends on how strong your signal is. Each time you split it, you lose power (some lost in the splitter, some goes one way, some goes the other).

They are all home-runs to a single 9-way splitter?

You'll likely need to get an amplifier as the signal from an antenna is usually weaker than than from a cable feed. I can't seem to find 10-way splitters (which makes sense... it's splitting it in half each time 2-4-8) Here's an 8-way that looks reasonable. Here's a slightly more expensive one with a higher gain and a metal case. You could probably use a passive 2-way splitter before this to get your 9th port successfully. Make sure if you have any unused ports that you slap a terminator on the end of it.

If you can mount the antenna on the exterior of the house it will give you much better reception than in an attic. I was able to reuse an old Dish Network mount on my house, but that will all depend on where you have clean line-of-sight to the tower. Higher mounts and bigger antennas equal more signal. If you're marginal you may also be able to use a preamp to help pull the channels in.

These should still strip HDCP: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC

​

Been using them for years to get DirectTV box HDMI into older switchers.

This is probably because of HDCP. You might be able to get it to work using an HDCP-compliant splitter like this one to strip the HDCP protections from the signal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will strip hdcp from any hdmi

Yes, buy an hdmi spliter:
https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

I use this one from amazon and it works great haven't had any issues with it

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Registered-Trademark-Capability/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1393766509&sr=8-16&keywords=Hdmi+splitter

First, I would suggest this MoCA adapter. Cheaper and Motorola generally makes reliable equipment.

Motorola MOCA Adapter for Ethernet over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8lL4AbTZQGZ04

Second, you just need to make sure the coax line your modem is hooked up to is split somewhere and also connected to the room you want the other adapter to be. You'll also want to purchase a MoCa filter to keep your MoCa in and block any other outside MoCa that others may not have blocked on their own.

Filter, MoCA "POE" Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qoL4AbWDKZV5D

You'll just need one on the input cable to your home. Best outside where the exterior cable line meets your interior cable line.

I work for a cable company that uses MoCa extensively and I'm a huge fan of it. I've seen MoCa give 200-300 mb consistently using MoCa 2.0. Next best thing to straight Ethernet.

put a MOCA filter on the line behind the modem.

HDMI duplicators.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F5R9TNM/

Those are MoCA adapters and you need a pair of them to work. You would attach one on the LAN side of your modem / router, and then attach the other wherever you want your PC.

They use an unused frequency on the coaxial cable to communicate with each other.

FYI, It is STRONGLY recommended you also install a MoCA filter (http://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409066991&sr=8-1&keywords=moca+filter) where the coax enters your house, otherwise you'll be sending your MoCA signal back out into the neighbourhood

You’d need a scaler:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oFp.AbG6DQ55G

Either that, or pick up a different vendor’s capture cards that have a built-in scaler and 4K passthrough.
https://www.razer.com/gaming-broadcaster/razer-ripsaw-hd

1. You need an HDMI Splitter that supports HDMI 1.3 to bypass the encryption. Like this
   
   https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
   
   2 - Nope. You can't stream the PSTV to the Vita.
   
   3 - Sorta. The PSTV's PS4 Link doesn't have the second screen option. It only uses Remote Play.

Second one is what I have (or very similar I think they are all made by the same supplier) and it works perfectly, for the PS4 as well.

The one I use is this. Amazon link so you can compare to your eBay ones. It doesn't necessarily say that it removes HDCP, but It's the one everyone recommends. The reviews do say that some didn't work, so it's usually a small chance you'll get an upgraded model that doesn't strip the HDCP.

PROTIP: Many cheap Chinese HDMI splitters strip HDCP. Its usually an unadvertised feature, so check the reviews to make sure it works. Here's one I've used before.

Hopefully you can find $2 more. I have this $22 splitter and it works fine.

http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/

This should be what you're looking for.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NR2VMNC/

Eventually you'll find yourself running cables all over your home to improve quality. I have Cat6 and Coax running all over my house. I have a 16 port gigabit router in the basement so I never experience network slowdown from streaming from the web or my media server.

My father moved our roof antenna into the attack when we redid our roof. It has a straight run (single cable, no splitters or joiners) to a 6 port splitter in the basement. Which has straight cable runs to all the rooms in the house. So no signal degradation occurs from using multiple splitters. The next step will be a powered splitter, https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WDR94U/.

That looks pretty clean for the number of cables you have - but I don't understand why you used multiple splitters? I think that's probably a bad idea because each one introduces signal degradation. You can get a powered 8-way splitter for ~ $35 that works well with cable modems and gives you a nice, clean signal. I have one and I haven't had any issues [Answered below].

You could try a Winegard FlatWave or Winegard FreeVision (both available at Home Depot, easily returnable) or Winegard HD-1080/Xtreme Signal HD1080x or Winegard HD7694P. You could try connecting a FreeVision outdoors to your existing coax cables. Just make sure it's fixed and not swinging. Your optimal direction is North.

See this post for more information on connecting an antenna using existing unused coax cables and sharing a single indoor/outdoor/attic antenna between multiple TVs/DVRs. The same applies to satellite coax cable runs or sharing an antenna in another room. Only difference is where you're mounting/connecting your antenna. This is something you can do yourself if the cables are within easy reach, but you can also hire a satellite installer who is willing to install antennas. Note that you can't reuse a satellite dish switch/"splitter". Consider this distribution amplifier to compensate for the degraded signal when using a passive splitter.

absolutely! it would be impossible without one. i use this one.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1WJB9ENBT626G&coliid=I2436BH94BFSGU

Could be a problem with the HDCP handshake. You could try running it through an HDMI splitter like this which will give the directv box a consistent HDCP handshake.

I use an Elgato HD60. Your going to need an HDMI 1x2 splitter to remove the HDCP like this one as well.

I don't know if there are (m)any capture cards that ignore HDCP, but you can easily strip HDCP instead using a splitter, such as this ViewHD one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_vkGzCbN4GVKMD

Is a splitter that also strips HDCP.

Don't listen to these other people telling you it wont work. It will, its just hit and miss. the splitter you bought is not one that is known to scramble the HDCP signal. This one had yeilded better results if you can I say return the one you bought and try the viewHD one. what you've got to do is connect one output to ElgatoHD60 and one to your tv. so a flow chart would be like:

PS3->HDMI Splitter Input

HDMI Splitter Output 1-> TV

HDMI Splitter Output 2 -> Elgato HD60

This should be enough to scrable the HDCP signal but like I said it is hit and miss.

Edit: I've re read your post it sounds like you are only using one output. for the splitter to work you must use both outputs. I suggest you try my flowchart with your current splitter before returning and purchasing another one. To make it a but more clear, you will need a total of THREE (3)
HDMI cables for the splitter to work.

Here.

I use the "ViewHD" HDMI splitter. I was into game capture stuff on PS3 and literally everything that comes out of the PS3 HDMI is HDCP protected.
Here's an Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_ec7GzbV5GZY03

Also, I would highly recommend the Elgato Game Capture HD60 Pro, the video latency so low you can game while viewing the capture software on a pc monitor instead of having a second tv/monitor to view the live gaming video and a pc monitor to view/record from a game capture device, if that makes sense.

I had the same problem with my TV, ordered this and now it works great.

What was happening? This sounds like it could be a HDCP issue. You can bypass most issues with one of these if anyone was wondering. Apple devices cause tons of these issues in conference rooms, especially when splitting signals. Good to know you saved the day!

I ordered this one a few months ago, works like a charm!

The issue with capturing video from your PS3 through HDMI is the HDCP in the signal. Certain splitters happen to also strip the HDCP from the signal, making it a-ok to be captured, so yes, you'd want a splitter for this and not a switcher. (A splitter takes one signal and outputs it to multiple while a switcher takes multiple signals and allows you to choose which one is passed through to a single cable.)

This is the one I use for that purpose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are ways around the HDCP. I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with my Elgato HD and it works great!

FireTV (I think every version that exists these days) requires HDCP shortly after boot. I don't think they can be used at all with a display that doesn't support HDCP.

Assuming that this is the cause of your problem, my recommendation would be to buy something to sit between the FireTV and SCART adapter that will strip HDCP. I've heard rumor that this device will do it, but have not yet confirmed.

You can try using an "HDCP stripper" such as this. Essentially it's a device that will report back to your AppleTV as HDCP compatible, but the signal it sends out to your TV/monitor will lack HDCP altogether. It's not marketed as such, but that's what most people buy them for.

No problem. I have my living room PC connected to both a 75" tv and a 23" monitor. Here are a few headaches I went through you can avoid:

1- Dual monitors only work well in duplicate mode.

2- CableCARD and dual monitors don't work well thanks to the fuckwits that implemented DRM. If you're using dual monitors (say, with a desk near your tv), use a splitter such as this one which enables use of both screens.

3- If you're going to use WMC as a movie jukebox, use these instructions to enable playback of .mkv files.

4- You can use Remote Media Center to stream all video, music, pics and even live tv from your home to any Android/iOS/browser, regardless of where you are, but you'll need a minimum of 2.2GHz dual core and 8GB of RAM (basically any these days current PC outside of an Atom or AMD E-series processor-equipped one), along with a web connection with no less than 5MB/s upstream for it to work effectively.

5- You'll never find a truly-perfect all-in-one remote. I have a full keyboard and mouse at the desk, and use this as a couch keyboard/mouse combo, and this as a remote. This remote isn't available yet in the U.S., but seems to perform the function of all 3 (remote/KB/mouse). Stay away from cheap all-in-ones from amazon. I've gone through 8 of them.

a Splitter, takes the same HDMI signal and sends it to 2 Output devices.

a Switch, Takes Multiple HDMI signals and will let you switch between them to go to 1 HDMI input.

you seem to be a little confused about what exactly you need.

The thing you are presently using will definitely not work. It's the "wrong way". You have 3 Inputs and 1 output. The goal of the splitter you are trying to use is to plug multiple devices in 1 tv. For example, plugging 1 Xbox one, 1 Xbox 360 and a Blueray player in the 3 "Inputs", and the "Outputs" goes in the TV. Meant to be used with TV that doesn't have enough HDMI input to plug all your stuff.
You will need something more like this: http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1450792526&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter or any splitter that has 1 input and 2 output. Check for that controller range tho to make sure it will work out.

Kvm stands for Keyboard, Video, Mouse and it would do exactly what you're looking for. However it is somewhat pricy.

If you don't mind pressing 3 buttons you could buy an HDMI merger, and have that feed into a splitter, and have a USB splitter.

Basically you'd need these: (Merger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pPfXzbWDY8YB9

(Splitter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tQfXzbWGDZ84V

(USB Switch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jTfXzbJRTASXT

And about 4 HDMI cables.

All in all it should cost you about $100. It's ghetto and would look silly but it will work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what you need. I have it. It works great.

I use one of these to strip HDCP for recording/streaming with PSTV:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a splitter and it works great. Mine is powered, so I suggest that as well. Heads up, the active monitor gets a 2-3 second black out when you power up the 2nd TV that is receiving the signal. Not a big deal, but can mess you up if playing and don't realize it's coming. Here's the one I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
edit: spehlinng

HDMI Splitter

Capture Card

Someone probably ran a cable to extend to another room. One is probably a feed, and one is probably an extension to another box. If this is the case, put a splitter on the feed and attach the extension and your new cable to the splitter.

Splitter
Extreme 2 Way HD Digital 1Ghz High Performance Coax Cable Splitter BDS102H https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007YV0UQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GEq4BbNCN09XC
Splitter


Faceplate
Mediabridge Wall Plate with F81 Jack (1-Port) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HN9KT48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aFq4BbJ2808N4
Faceplate

I wanted the Xbox to be hooked up to my monitor, and the television at the same time, but not have to plug and unplug the hdmi cords all of the time, so I bought this. It works wonderfully without any issues. It carries the same signal to both and plays on both simultaneously. After testing with an HTML stopwatch on the PC with the splitter (two outputs, one output to my monitor, other output to the splitter that split to a second monitor and tv) I've determined that it adds no input lag, so you don't have to worry about a delayed button press, reaction, etc.

Now I can game on the TV, or on the monitor if the wife is wanting to watch something in the same room, all without the hassle of having to set anything up.

I hope this answers your question.

The fact that it was possible to move the modem/router means that you probably have Coaxial cables run throughout the house. This is a very good thing. What you need are MoCA adapters, they basically let you run Ethernet over Coaxial cables. This is the one to get, also available in pairs. At the very least, you'll need one where the modem/router is currently located and another upstairs where it used to be located.

At the modem/router, you'll disconnect the Coaxial cable from the modem/router and connect it to the input of the 2-way splitter that comes with the MoCA adapter. Then connect the Coax In port of the adapter to one of the splitter's outputs, and the modem/router to the other. Finally, connect the MoCA adapter's Ethernet port to one of the router's LAN ports.

Upstairs, where the modem/router used to be, simply connect the existing Coaxial cable to the Coax In port of the MoCA adapter. Connect the adapter's Ethernet port to an access point, such as this one.

That's the basic setup, but you can take it much farther. You can add a MoCA adapter anywhere else you have a Coaxial cable connection. In any room where you have a Coaxial connection and stationary devices on Wi-Fi (PCs, game consoles, TVs etc) you should add a MoCA adapter and gigabit switch, then connect those devices to the switch. This gets them off Wi-Fi, so in addition to giving them perfectly reliable connections it speeds up the Wi-Fi for the devices (phones, tablets, laptops) that actually need it.

Oh, one last thing you need: a MoCA filter. This goes at your cable's point of entry to your house, before the first splitter, and prevents your MoCA network from going outside your house and potentially being accessible from other nearby houses.

The only moca adapter you need is where the cable comes into your house. The Bolt has moca built in. I just completed my setup. 1 Bolt and 3 minis.

Filter, MoCA "POE" Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Wj9CwbB1WB7XB

They do make moca amps, but I didn't need one.

Good luck!

If you can't run an ethernet cable directly, MoCA is usually your best bet. Other options include ethernet over powerline or wireless (but both of those are less reliable than MoCA). Ethernet cables can also run a pretty decent distance (~300ft), so you could look at whether running the cable up through the attic and back down (along the same path as the coax) is an option.

Yes, you will need 2 MoCA adapters. On both sides, they convert ethernet<->coax. So on the router side you'll plug the moca ethernet port into your router and you'll have a bit of a loop: Coax->Modem->Router->MoCA Adapter->Coax. On the office side it'll just be coax->ethernet.

It's also often recommended to get a MoCA filter, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6. Install this device as the first thing on the cable that enters your house. It's designed to filter out the MoCA signal so that your network doesn't travel up the cable and into your neighbor's houses. You want your MoCA network to be active on all the coax within your house, but not leak out past that.

One final small note is that MoCA works as more than just a point-to-point network. If you have more rooms to connect that have coax, you can just add adapters and they'll all join the same network.

Here's a youtube video that covers moca pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhCaZqxVAJE

You can do it yourself.

Assuming none of your existing equipment supports MoCA, you can get a two-pack of adapters like one of these:

Edit: Note that MoCA 2.x is newer and faster than MoCA 1.x, but other than that they work the same, and are compatible with each other.

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MDRX5A
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EQ4BQG
  
  If one of the devices already supports MoCA (TiVO, some Verizon modems, etc), you can just get a single adapter instead of the two-pack.
  
  You'll also need to get MoCA-rated splitters for your basement (or wherever the cable lines in your house run to). Either get one with as many outputs as your existing splitter and replace it completely, or get a smaller one and use it to split the signal from your main splitter into the cable for each room where you want to use MoCA. You want something like these, but there are many options with different port counts:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00558UJTO
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00556LI1E
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M34OZ2S
  
  Finally, you need a Point-of-Entry filter to prevent your MoCA signal from leaking out to your neighbors through your cable connection. You put it on your cable line before your splitter(s) and it blocks the MoCA signal from passing through:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4ODQTS
  
  
  Edit: My setup is cabled as follows:
  
  The cable tv / Internet line enters my home in the basement. I have the Point-of-Entry filter screwed onto the cable, and then into a MoCA splitter. Coax cables run from the splitter to various rooms in my house.
  
  In the room with my modem and router, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of a MoCA adapter. I have a short cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my modem. There is an ethernet cable from the modem to the WAN port on my router (this gives my router its Internet connection), and then an ethernet cable from a LAN port on the router to the ethernet port on the MoCA adapter (this gives the MoCA network access to the Internet).
  
  In the room with my TV, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of another MoCA adapter. I have don't actually use cable TV service (just Internet), but if I did, I would have a cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my TV. There is an ethernet cable from the MoCA adapter to my Roku to provide it with Internet access through the MoCA network.
  
  I actually use this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZ6WC3A by my TV rather than one of the smaller ones, because it has four ethernet ports instead of one. I bought it before MoCA 2.0 devices were available. If you only have one ethernet port on your adapter but need to connect multiple devices, you can get a small network switch instead. I was just trying to avoid extra boxes next to my TV.

Make sure you only get Moca2.0 adapters.

You'll need to get some filters to stop the Moca signal going back upstream.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=asc_df_B00DC8IEE65157404

I've been using a pair of these to get internet to the second floor from my basement and they work wonders. You should also buy a POE Filter to put in where your coax enters the house.


Then you plug one into your router and attatch the coax. If you have a cable box, it has a built in splitter to let you hook that up too. Then you plug coax into the other one in the place where you want internet, and then the ethernet cable into your device.

I've used this powered splitter for my consoles so it's worth checking out: HDMI Splitter 2 Way Hdmi Splitter 1 in 2 out 1080P Full HD for 3D HDTV SKY HD PS4 Xbox360 Elite Virgin + Blu-ray Player DVD HD Camcorder HTPC Laptop Satellite https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LM4IJ60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_31QRAb66SC3Y1

As for converting to vga, I use something similar to this: Active HDMI to VGA Adapter with Audio, Benfei HDMI to VGA Converter Gold-Plated Cord with Audio for Laptop, XBox 360 One, PS4 PS3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KLKQN9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k5QRAbJNE3GC5

I've Jerry rigged enough setups to know the hassle, hopefully these can help :-)

I know what you meant, since I work in technical support, and deal with customers who don't know what to call things all the time. "I'm adapting DP to HDMI, but I'm not using an adapter, just a cable" is a common one. Most issues arise from misunderstanding that only dongles are adapters, which is why I have to break it down as 'I understand you're saying that you are not using an adapter, what port is the cable plugged into on the computer.... HDMI? .... and on the monitor? .... DP? .... Is there a box on the cable? ... No? ... I found your problem.'

A tiny dongle that has DP and HDMI plugs, that plugs into DP on the computer, and gives a plug for an HDMI to HDMI cable is an adapter. This is what you meant. Not linking a pic, since we're both in agreement these are adapters. Now, so you understand a tiny bit more...

A 2 meter long cable with a DP and HDMI plug on either end (like this) is ALSO an adapter. Sure, no additional breaks, but it adapts DP to HDMI. Would probably help OP with less additional parts to buy. It's still an adapter, and works effectively the same as the dongle, just a bit longer and with some gender variances on ends.

That VERY SAME cable would not work if plugged into a HDMI port on the computer, and DP on a monitor. It requires an active adapter, which does a little conversion from the older HDMI standard to the newer DP standard. In the instance of HDMI-DP, it can draw power from HDMI but still requires a housing for the chipset (like this). Most active adapters have a second cable that plugs into USB or the wall (like this).

Relevant

I doubt you have HDMI inputs on your pc, but outputs will work. :) You need one of these, a display port to mini display port dongle, and the wacom link. If you don't have USB3 you'll need to get an add in card as well. With the exception of some laptops like macbook pro, most computers do not have true thunderbolt 3 connectors so most of us are using the link.

Most cheap HDMI splitters like this (though note I don't know if this specific one does or not) will strip HDCP.

The problem is it's literally illegal (to the best of my knowledge) to sell a device that does that, and so they'll never be advertised as such on a storefront you actually want to order from. Meaning it all comes down to looking at reviews, and confirming which ones do it or not.

Look into an "HDMI splitter". It's a box that takes one video input and duplicates it into several outputs. I did some review reading, and this is the best one I could find. If you need another HDMI cable, you can get one from Amazon Basics on the cheap.

Also, thank you! I hope you have a wonderful Thanksgiving, too!

I've been using this one for about three years. It's behaved flawlessly, and has the added benefit of stripping HDCP from the signal, so you don't have to disable it on your console.

You might need an HDMI repeater like this.
This would help if your video card can't provide enough juice to the HDMI port.
BTW I have no idea how and why these things work, they don't have any external power inputs afaik, so they are basically magic as far as I can tell, but people have been reporting success with repeaters, so they seem to work.

I took the same path as you. This repeater from Amazon has been working for me. I needed to get this adapter to work with the HDMI extension cable. Occasionally I need to unplug and plug back in the cables to get them working well, but for the most part they have worked flawlessly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Try this out. I use it to push video to my HD60Pro and 4k monitor from my One X

gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K 60HZ HDR 1x4 HDMI 2.0 Splitter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This is what I use with my HD60 Pro.
I also use a 4K switch in conjunction with it but I think this is the most cost effective way to solve your problem.
Took a chance on it and it works like a dream.

To answer your question though, the setup you described in your post would work as well if you want to buy a 4k60

Go w/ this. The 970m is a great high-end card, it also has a powerful quad-core i7, a blu-ray burner, 32 freakin' GBs or RAM. If you need multiple displays, you can go w/ an HDMI Splitter.

Get two PCs/laptops with Gigabit Ethernet NICs, and use IPerf. IPerf is the go-to tool for quick performance tests between two machines you own.

First try the two devices directly connected (with crossover cable if neither of your NICs does auto-crossover/auto-MDI-X) to make sure you get about 942Mbps of TCP-over-IPv4 throughput, which is the theoretical max of what you can get over gigabit Ethernet.

Then hook one device up to one MoCA adapter, and the other to the other MoCA adapter, and see what performance you get.

Note that MoCA speeds can vary greatly from one coax outlet to another, depending on cable lengths and splitter topology and many other factors.

Tip: Always install a MoCA "point of entry (POE)" filter where the coax line from the Cable TV provider comes into your home (before the first splitter on your premises). It not only keeps your signals from getting into other people's homes, it reflects your signals back onto your home's coax tree, which helps MoCA signals traverse splitters.

I have Eeros and am a big fan, but it sounds like you need some hardwired connections. One option that worked well for me was using the preinstalled coax cable in my last apartment. Every room seemed to have coax hookups, and I could run it over the same coax that spectrum was running my internet connection on.

What you'd want is a MoCA adapter (or really, at least 2, one per end) to inject ethernet over coax and then pull it off elsewhere in the house. Had 450Mbps at my Xbox 2 floors away from the modem, and an eero beacon on the other side of the room for wifi devices.

I used these from Amazon with great success. You'd also want to put a high-pass filter on the incoming connection from the street to keep your network private.

As for wiring it up: Modem <--> Eero <--> MoCA <--> Coax Cable (the same one the internet was going to the modem on) <--> MoCA (in another room on a different floor) <--> switch <--> TV, Xbox, Receiver, etc. And the filter on the coax splitter outside coming from the street.

Get a MoCA filter as well, since your Internet comes in over Coax. This will prevent your LAN traffic from being leaked outside of your Coax runs and potentially pissing upstream MoCA equipment off that's upstream of your WAN connection.

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

They will work in more than just pairs. What you would want to do is put a MoCa filter on the line where it comes into the house. That would stop someone from being able to put another adapter on the line and getting on your network. Here is one on Amazon but you can get them on ebay for pretty cheap also.

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

You totally can! You MUST use a MoCA POE filter somewhere between the ONT and where it goes into the splitter to go out to the rest of your residence though. Even if your coax is isolated from the outside world, having that filter is what made MoCA work for me everywhere I’ve ever used it.

Here’s the Amazon link...


Filter, MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.wIVDbBHGWF0E

Actiontec is one of the primary vendors in this area. A few things to keep in mind:

1. If you have any cable splitters between the two MoCA adapters, you need to make sure they support the MoCA frequency range.
   
   
2. Place a MoCA point of entry filter at the main coax tap coming into your home to block external household MoCA traffic from coming in and interfering, as well as to prevent your MoCA signals from exiting your house.
   
   A few sample devices:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Holland-Electronics-GHS-2Pro-M-Splitter-5-1675Mhz/dp/B00P6VHLP0/
   
   

Thank you! Very helpful reply. I've just started reading up on this sub, and it seems like a MoCA is a better implementation of a powerline. Actually, it sounds exactly like a powerline, except that instead of using the house's electrical wiring, the MoCA uses the coax connection. Am I understanding the technology correctly?

I do have one coax output in my room (where desktop 1 is located) which goes straight to the modem. This room is also where the router is located.

In the living room, I do have another coax output for where the cable box for the TV should go. Since I've currently cut the cord, we stream TV from the Xfinity app, and I've returned the cable box. This means I do have a coax cable free in the living room.

What I can do is connect a MoCA in the living room, and use my existing wifi extender to broadcast a signal from the MoCA.

Additionally, I can also get a small unmanaged switch (maybe 2-3 ports) and use that to directly hardwire the playstation that is sometimes used for video streaming! The MoCA to switch shouldn't have too many issues, right?

Are there any MoCAs that you'd recommend? Amazon has quite a few.

I'm also seeing a MoCA filter.. However, I do not have access to the exterior cabling, so would this be of any use to me?

Sounds like you're more educated on the matter than the average person.


As a guess, you might be able to "segment off" part of your coaxial cables with a MoCA filter or two. These effectively block off the frequencies used by MoCA from passing through that segment of the cabling. Obviously YMMV when it comes to integration with all of your existing equipment.
https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

What kind of "Cable TV"? Most likly they won't conflict, but some ATT and Direct TV systems use MoCA, so if you also use MoCA on the same band, they might conflict. Even if it does work, make sure you install a MoCA filter at the point your cable TV goes outside to the street. This stops your signal from getting out and causing problems with other people's systems.

If the detached unit has a coaxial cable run, you can try MoCA adapters, which work better than powerline. They're a bit pricey, however. You will also need to put a cheap filter like this one where the cable comes in from the street, otherwise any neighbors with MoCA adapters may be able to access your LAN.

If you have good line of sight from the location of the router to the detached unit, you can use a wireless bridge, e.g. Ubiquiti Nanostations. The smaller ones aren't that expensive.

But don't forget to add a filter at your dmarc.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DC8IEE6/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-2&pf_rd_r=16GKDM9MHH7NGG5AKJAY&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1976650682&pf_rd_i=desktop

Responding in the order encountered, rather than by priority...
 

> POE Filter can be found here. That is on the line right as it gets into the house.

The "PoE" MoCA filter would ideally be installed on the input to the initial splitter, as doing so provides a performance improvement over having any length of coax between the "PoE" MoCA filter and the initial splitter's input. (This would provide a slight performance improvement and should be implemented, but isn't likely the cause of your Basement MoCA issues.)
 

> That goes into an Antronix 3 way splitter 5-1002MHz Model #: CMC2003BH-A Each output shows -5.58dB out

You'll want to upgrade this splitter to a MoCA-compatible model... such as this Holland balanced 3-way model. The existing splitter may not be blocking your MoCA signals, but may be contributing more loss than desirable.
 

> Output 1: Home Phone/Kitchen TV (Non Tivo Connected) Antronix FRA1-1510 Forward/Return amplifier/Splitter to get my home phone to work, One of the two Coax cables goes to power the modem for the home phone, the other for the non-TiVo TV

If you don't have any MoCA devices down this coax line, you should install a MoCA filter on the "Output 1" port to prevent MoCA signals from wastefully running down this line... especially since that in-line amplifier could create some unpredictable effects on the MoCA signals.
 

> Output 2: CommScope 2 way splitter Model SV-2G 5-1002MHz one goes to the guest bedroom where we previously had the other Mini and it worked fine (one we moved to basement) and the other goes to the Master Bedroom where a Mini that works fine currently is

Could upgrade to MoCA-compatible (e.g.), though shouldn't have any effect on your Basement MoCA issue.
 

> Output 3: Same two way splitter as Output 2. One goes to the cable modem I provided details for above and the other goes to the Tuning Adapter Model Cisco STA 1520

Per previous posts on recommendations for the tuning adapter setup, you'll need another 2-way splitter or switch to a single 3-way splitter, either balanced or unbalanced depending on your signal strength requirements. I'd prioritize upgrading this splitter, along with the initial splitter, to MoCA-compatible models -- though you might as well upgrade 'em all.

Also as covered in the previous tuning adapter setup recommendations, you'll need a second MoCA filter for your setup, here, installed as a "protective" MoCA filter on the input of the tuning adapter. (This would make it 3 total MoCA filters for your setup, if you also implement a MoCA filter to block-off Output 1 of the initial splitter, as suggested above.)

Further, if looking to boost the signal received at the cable modem and DVR a bit (i.e. 'Output 3' of the main splitter), at the expense of the other outputs of the main splitter, you could opt for an unbalanced 3-way as your initial splitter, connecting the low-loss output of the splitter as "Output 3." (Given the prices, you could order 2 each of the balanced and unbalanced 3-way splitters, then resell whatever you don't use.)

POE Filter. Very cheap, like $9 on Amazon. It just keeps your home network closed to the coaxial network outside your house (your neighbors, etc.).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DC8IEE6?ref_=sr_1_1&qid=1450547819&sr=8-1&keywords=poe%20filter&sa-no-redirect=1&pldnSite=1

Thanks. Will these work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTO99VY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AYOSS4PW7QE9I&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DC8IEE6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A21C4U5X700J66&psc=1

This is an inexpensive splitter that will solve your issue. You can get cheaper ones, but this one is powered and will prevent any signal loss from splitting one hdmi signal into two.

If you want it to show the same on both external screens you can use one HDMI to an HDMI 1x2 Splitter.

https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Certified-Duplicate-Supports-Resolutions/dp/B00F5R9TNM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+splitter+2+monitors+4k&qid=1570316231&sr=8-3

SmallHD claims their splitter works without needing a 5v tap:
https://store.smallhd.com/store/ac7-lcd-accessories/HDMI-Splitter

I usually recommend a powered splitter, which the above can provide as well (and some are cheaper on amazon), but then you would obviously need to tap that in from somewhere.

Yes. You can split HDMI to multiple screens. But all the screens have the exact same content. I split my cable boxes HDMI out to multiple screens and my PC's HDMI output to 2 screens too.

I bought a powered "1x2 HDMI splitter" on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F5R9TNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483642867&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1x2+hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41WFEFz%2BVwL&ref=plSrch

You can try an hdmi splitter but copyright laws may prevent you from multiplying the signal. That's why bars spend thousands on equipment because each tv needs its own receiver.

My recommendation:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F5R9TNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485968837&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi%2Bsplitter%2B1%2Bin%2B2%2Bout&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Although this is your best bet there is still a chance of copyright signaling preventing the duplication of a second signal.

Source: Low voltage Audio visual technician

Alright, had the splitter about two days. Call me superstitious, but I was concerned it would effect input lag, but I haven't noticed any difference in a few hours of Battlefield 1.

I can't seem to get the HDMI-CEC to work anymore, but really I wasn't hopeful. (I flipped HDMI-CEC on/off and now tv doesn't seem to receive it for either input. That's ok; I think it's asking a lot of a $20 splitter to detect current input and intelligently route HDMI-CEC there.)

I did have to enable HDR on the tv for both inputs in tv config in order to get HDR on just one input. But once I did the HDR comes on.

The Samsung likes to auto-detect and rename my input labels, so I've given up trying to rename them things like "PSHDR" and "PS."

Overall, does what I hoped it would and no surprising adverse effects. This is the one I got, BTW: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F5R9TNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay, so I've had a quick look and it seems like this is just a normal set up.

PS4 -> HDMI Splitter (here's a cheap one)

HDMI Splitter Output 1 -> Blackmagic Intensity

HDMI Splitter Output 2 -> Your Monitor / TV

Blackmagic Intensity plugs into your PC as normal, and your stream from there.

You'll need 2 Monitors/TV's (one for the PC and one for the PS4)
You'll also need 3 HDMI cables.

Let me know if you have any issues.

Shouldn't be that hard to find. I have this brand and mine works fine for PS3 capture. If it doesn't, return it and try a different one.

So I should get an hdmi splitter and split the hdmi output from the cable box to the splitter, then run 3 hdmi to ethernet extenders out to the tv's?

something like 3 of these: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Certified/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509549170&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+cat6

and 1 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Movcle-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509549474&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+splitter+1x3&dpID=311IVhqkBhL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Something like this should do the trick.

The only way to know for sure is to try it, but I don't give you good odds. You'd need to go from HDMI to MiniDisplayport, the only way I'm finding is an HDMI Male to Displayport Female and a Displayport Male to MiniDisplayport Female. If you have a local computer store that has those cables (or another combination) in stock you might buy local that way you can return them if it doesn't work.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-DisplayPort-Converter-Compliant-Dual-Mode/dp/B01BXMOREI/

This will support up to 120 Hz at 1080p.

Is it an HDMI to Display Port adapter or is it a Display Port to HDMI adapter that you try to connect in a reverse order? Cause googling for Insignia HDMI to Display Port adapter doesn't bring any hits.

HDMI to Display Port adapters are not so common and they are more expensive. Here are some from Amazon (1),(2),(3),(4).

I don't know about the ones you have but this is the one I bought and it works:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMOMM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Totally. Pretty sure this is the one i bought,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CCMOMM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1521067160&sr=8-26&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitters

Inexpensive and did the job.

The key is this hdmi extender. Any decent usb extension should work, and any high quality hdmi cable + the extender. Im using the slim active monoprice 10ft hdmi cable and 10ft amazon usb 3.0 with the 970 with zero issues.

also there's a faq on this sub with good infos

Sure thing fam!

USB 2.0 16 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LFL4X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 15 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI cable 10ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRA11IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Repeater - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M02Z4FU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The good news is with a repeater you can just use a regular HDMI cable and not an extension with male/female connectors. I only bought an extra cable because all the ones I had lying around were only 6ft or so and I wanted longer.

I had some crackling in the audio the first time I connected the headset with extensions but hasn't been any since then (not sure if I had/have it on 2.0 or 3.0 for the headset which would be the culprit since HDMI is only for the video portion and USB carries audio).

Like I said - all of these are working on my current setup. Motherboard is an MSI Z97-G45 Gaming with my 4790k and running a 1080 ti GPU. Monitors are on display port so am fortunately able to run this directly from the GPU's open HDMI slot.

I also use an Acer Predator Helios 300 laptop and the extensions all work with it as well so hopefully you have good results!

The “splitter” with the orange label is the hub and will need to stay, but you can replace the other one. It is moca only so it doesn’t need to be anything special, just buy one with the highest upper end frequency you can find for a decent price with the number of ports you need. I believe moca 2.0 goes up to around 1500-1750 MHz.

16 - MagiDeal 16 Way Vertical Splitter Coaxial 5-2400 MHz HDTV Digital TV Coax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KSD1ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Iqq5BbV8BXKKX

8 - BAMF 8-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA 5-2300MHz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M34OZ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6rq5BbNHNZCS5

Terminate the unused ports with - Mumaxun 10pcs F Type 75 Ohm Terminator Coax Cap for Coaxial Networks Cable TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPSX285/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3tq5BbF3KTQ67

Only one split right from the mainline (one for modem, one for tvs) then all the moca goes to this splitter. So I think it should handle it.

BAMF 8-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA 5-2300MHz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M34OZ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_kNtlIMJkksD4d

ok so the deal is

look on one of your splitters and it will say -3.5db if its a 1 in 2 out splitter

that means you are losing 3.5db of signal .. theoretically that means you are losing 50% of your signal.

splitters that have more ports have a higher db loss... some are as bad as -11db on a 8port splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/BAMF-8-Way-Splitter-Bi-Directional-5-2300MHz/dp/B01M34OZ2S/

so that splitter would really suck for antenna signals but for cabletv the cable company can adjust their amp outside to pump enough power to get to your home.. unfortunately for cable modems they need a return path so some of those 8 port splitters will have a single port that has much less gain and they hook your cable modem to that..

ok so thats splitters

coax cable also has attenuation problems... the longer the cable the weaker the signal until it is too weak to get to the other side. it is trying to push electrons / small amounts of electricity that the antenna picks up.. push it through the wire.. but it can't after a while.

Theoretical is 300 feet maximum but that is only with the strongest signals such as cable tv.. after 300 feet you need to use an amplifier in the run of coax.

100 feet of cable is supposedly -1 db loss but bad connectors really cause problems .. you need to use the waterproof connectors not the old crimp on type and you have to get that white center insulator all the way up flush after your crimp.

https://www.amazon.com/Coax-Crimper-Compression-Stripper-Connectors/dp/B06W5G64VQ

So in your situation you probably have weak to reasonable signals

and you are trying to push them through splitters and long lengths of coax and blah and loose connectors and ...

so what they make is a preamplifier.

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-CM-7777-Antenna-Preamplifier/dp/B000GGKOG8/

this is when you take about 3 feet of coax off of the antenna.. shortest is best.. and then you attach an amplifier that takes your signals and pushes them through the long lengths of coax and through the splitters.

to power the preamplifier you need to use special power passing splitters ... you put the amp on the antenna.. you bring the coax into your house... you install what is called an Injector that shoots dc power up to the amp to power it... but only some splitters will allow power to pass through them so you have to get the ones that say power passing on all ports and the splitter has to be bidirectional ... like this one

https://www.amazon.com/CHANNEL-2532-2-Way-Splitter-Combiner/dp/B00006JPE1/

​

so now you have that preamp boosting your fresh off the antenna signals 26db... use to be 30.. the ones i have are 30 but the new ones are 26 which is still good...

hopefully that is enough power to get to your rooms

However in my case it is not since I am 60+ miles out from the broadcast towers

So instead of splitting the coax with splitters I have to run a distribution amplifier.

so I have

Antenna - preamp - 50foot coax to the injector - distribution amp - single coax lines to each room

a distribution amp cuts out the need for splitters and it amps the signal a tiny bit more to get it through the coax to each room.

I run a 8port distribution amp

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B002M1EPL0

the fewer the ports the stronger the distribution amp is going to be but i need more than 4 ports out.. i don't have that many TVs but I did wire rooms that don't have TVs because why not.. also i tried a 4 port to try to get a bit more signal and there was not much improvement so 8port is what I need.. 3 bedrooms, basement, kitchen, living room and the house is all wired.. some day i will setup my DVR again and put it on an unused port

​

so thats the deal man .. heh

it would be good if you could provide your www.rabbitears.info search results as I could tell you the best situation..

but you do need to limit your use of splitters and I would guess a preamp is really in your future

go do this

https://www.rabbitears.info/searchmap.php

then put the link here

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJWF31/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_v7hTOQqinPtgf this works perfect! Hdr 4k and 60hz on all modes

Seems like no one is getting your idea. If you only want to capture, edit and upload or stream directly, you don't need to spend too much. There are two important parts that you need to consider if your idea is to play and record from a console at 4k60: 1. A video capture card like Elgato 4k60 pro ($271 USD) 2. A HDMI splitter that let you play and record at the same time at 4k60 Gofanco Prophey splitter ($56 USD). For the build; if you are planning to edit on Adobe Premiere, I'd stay with Intel because you should use hardware encoding to reduce render times and Premiere only works with Intel Quicksync. For the GPU, I recommend Nvidia for stability and if you'd like to stream, the nvenc encoder is possibly the best option for OBS. Having a mid-high GPU opens the path of PC gaming at 1440p or 1080p.

The build I'm suggesting is $1232 USD for a grand total of $1,559 USD, leaving some spare cash for upgrading and buy other accessories(mouse, keyboard, webcam, headset, etc.). I highly recommend adding more storage (you're gonna need it for 4k recording) and maybe more RAM or better GPU.

Edit: If you don't mind a bit longer render times or not gonna use Premiere, you should go with 3rd gen Ryzen. Also, streaming high quality 4k video may be difficult, you should consider to scale it down to 1080p. Important: if you're planning to OC, you'll need a better cooler (maybe bequiet, noctua or liquid cooler).

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $359.99 @ Best Buy
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $34.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI Z390-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $109.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $72.99 @ Amazon
Storage | ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Constellation CS ISE 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $55.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB DUAL OC Video Card | $249.89 @ OutletPC
Case | NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.98 @ NZXT
Power Supply | Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $107.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1271.70
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1231.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-22 02:46 EDT-0400 |

Freesync wants to "speak" to the monitor directly to keep it right, doubt that will ever happen. This one keeps all the good stuff (HDR, 4k, 7.1)

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Prophecy-Intelligent-60Hz-Splitter/dp/B079HJWF31

Just turn your TV Game mode on for Low latency

HDMI 1 in 2 out 4k HDR

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Prophecy-Intelligent-60Hz-Splitter/dp/B079HJWF31/

Keep in mind both displays must support the same resolution and HDR unless you want to manually change this every time.

To avoid changing display settings you would need something like the HD Fury Vertex which can output to multiple displays but also convert the video signal into a variety of other formats like 4K HDCP2.2 to 1080p HDCP 1.4.

I had the same problem - I got an HDMI splitter. I am able to get 4k and HDR and 7.1 Surround uncompressed. Try this - https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Prophecy-Intelligent-60Hz-Splitter/dp/B079HJWF31?ref_=ast_slp_dp

​

Hopefully that works for you!

I was in a similar setup and was unable to get around it. I bought a splitter to try and get around the issue but it still didn't work. I believe it's a restriction in Windows and we should probably submit feedback to MS via Windows and get it bumped here. I've gone back to single PC streaming so that I get full FPS in my games.

Hello All-- To play the xbox one x at 4k and record at 1080/60, we can use the gofanco 4ksplittter/scaler. This device is a plug and play from amazon that requires no setup other than just plugging in the hdmi's. Only $55 which is really good considering comparable equipment to get this task done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found a way to finally get HDR pass-through working as long as you're willing to spend $56. I purchased this hdmi splitter from Amazon for something else but somehow I'm now able to pass 4k60hz, HDR & Atmos signal from the Shield TV to the Vizio soundbar then to a Samsung Q8FN with it. Give it a try!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can feed 4K60 into the 4K60 Pro and stream/record at 1080p60. That's what I'd recommend anyways. Streaming at 4k is too tough on the PC hardware and requires insanely good internet to not only upload but on the viewer end, to watch.

You could also go with an HD60 Pro and get a cheaper hardware scaler, like this GoFanco Splitter and scaler.

I have personal experience with the GoFanco and can say this: It works. It will also accept an HDR signal but it DOES NOT convert HDR to SDR properly so you will be left with a washed out image. For all intents and purposes, it DOES NOT convert HDR to SDR.
I tested it with one output connected to a 4K Monitor, and another output to an HD60 S. The monitor received the Xbox One Xs 4K signal and the HD60 S got a scaled 1080p60 signal. The scaling is not the best quality, but its hard to tell from normal viewing distances or when encoding the gameplay for a video.

Hope this helps! -

gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K 60HZ HDR 1x4 HDMI 2.0 Splitter - 4:4:4, 3D, HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2, EDID, 18Gbps, Auto Scaling, Low Heat, Cascadable, Firmware Upgradable, 4 port 1 in 4 out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oFp.AbG6DQ55G

Sure. You should easily find a number of splitters on Amazon.

Edit:

This is the first one I can find.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-Out-Aluminum-Supports/dp/B07DQBY5TX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1562180662&s=gateway&sr=8-5

no, it's easier. you're just trying to clone a single source to both your TV and a computer monitor, right?

i mean, you've seen HDMI splitters, right? am i missing something?

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-Out-Aluminum-Supports/dp/B07DQBY5TX/

Well that was a bust. I guess I bought the wrong splitter. Because once I plugged it in, my Xbox was quite unhappy. Time to keep looking, I guess.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-Out-Aluminum-Supports/dp/B07DQBY5TX/ref=gwm_tlc_pi?pf_rd_s=grid-13&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=GCW4QJ3FEB3SZ09FTZ9M&pf_rd_p=04affaba-c566-4cec-9a48-677cfbfdb6f8&pd_rd_i=B07DQBY5TX

Sorry, scratch that one I showed you, you need multi-out, not multi-in.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-Out-Aluminum-Supports/dp/B07DQBY5TX/

I was having issues for a long time in an old house because of a weak signal due splitting before it got to the modem (it's what they told me). The tech came out and hooked up one of these for free (http://www.amazon.com/Bi-Directional-Amplifier-Splitter-Booster-Passive/dp/B000WDR94U - Not the exact unit but same concept) and it's worked well ever since. Not saying it's a solution for everyone because my technical knowledge is limited but it may be worth a shot.


Also make sure you are using a modem and router that you purchased on your own, cause fuck comcast. I for one welcome our fiberygoogley overlords.

We had the same issue in our house. What ended up fixing it was finding where all the cables connected to the main cable line (ours was in our master closet). The builders (16 years ago) had 4+ cable splitters all tied together in a jumbled mess.

We ended up replacing every splitter with one modern cable booster type thing that has one “in” line for coax and about 8-10 “out” lines. Fixed every connection in the house!

It actually was an amplifier that looked something like this.

It's done using a Distribution Amplifier (DA). Basically one source in many out. The DA that stores use may be out of your price range. I think what you are looking for is a Coax Distribution Amplifier. They still make them but unless you buy a really good one you will introduce a lot of noise in to the signal reducing the picture quality on all the other TVs.

I use Extron in my installs when I need to send video to many endpoints, but that brand is not sold in stores, only by distributors, but you might be able to pick it up on line. Another issue is coax is not a connection I deal with anymore. It's all DV over twisted pair, meaning video over Ethernet basically, but it is a dedicated run of wire, you cannot send internet over it at the same time. This will send an HDMI signal over 100 feet over standard cat5

If you want more detail on how all this stuff works let me know.

[EDIT] Here is one on Amazon that will give you an idea of what to look for. It not only splits the signal it amplifies it too. $38

Reading through all this. I want to confirm some things:

>Yes I have identified which cable that comes from the cable company, that one pops out in my cable box and the cable goes straight on my upstairs living room that has the modem, i longer have anything connected to cable.

The liine for HSD, goes from the cable co drop straight to its OWN RUN to the CM. Nothing else, correct?

> I have 5 cable ends for each room of the house and living room

So you have UNCONNECTED SIX leads in that demarc box, correct? And a SEVENTH that goes from cable co drop to HSD modem in separate room, correct?

So you have something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PREMIUM-Splitter-F-Type-Antenna-110016/dp/B00DIGAIRS

Were these other rooms connected to cable for video at some point WITH The HSD run too?

You tested with a 50ft run, direct to the antenna.. Repeat this with a different test. Take cable from the antenna, use an F barrel connector and connect to the RUN to the MAIN TV you tested directly with. If there is not enough cable from the run to the antenna cable. Use a SHORT JUMPER and 2 barrel connectors to jump for the test. 3-6ft jumper or RG6. Test reception with that. Connect to each separate run, one at a time.

Repeat that test for EACH RUN, one cable at a time. NO SPLITTER.

If you get good reception from each run to the antenna. Then you need an DISTRIBUTION AMP. Like these:

https://www.amazon.com/PCT-MA28PN-Amplifier-Passive-8-Ports/dp/B000WDR94U/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505474036&sr=1-3-fkmr1&keywords=6+port+distribution+amp

The come in 1,2,4,8 port versions. For the two ports you don't use, get an F terminator and use on them.

The splitter is more than likely a 6 port version inserting a 10db loss!

See this for specs:
http://www.pctstore.com/6_way_horizontal_RF_splitter_PCT_1000_6W_p/pct10006w.htm


This explains splitters pretty well:
https://www.pctstore.com/Splitters_s/27.htm

As for a signal meter if you can find a USED Sencore SLM 1453I Then you can measure ATSC(8VSB) signals. Unfortunately no economical asian clones exist, they are all QAM meters for CATV use.

This is the amp I bought from amazon last year: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WDR94U/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it for $29.90 but it has worked awesome. Our house is pre wired for all rooms so the antenna is outside and feeding inside the house on one line. Plug into splitter and bingo, video on all tvs in the house.

We are in Colorado also, Highlands Ranch. So, I just pointed the antenna towards Lookout Mountain and we get all sorts of channels. I have an amplified splitter, but don't really need to run the amplifier.

I am in a similar issue. Stations are in two opposite directions and both are behind a hill. I used a bow-tie style antenna and an amplifier. This went from unwatchable to perfect reception. It could be mounted in an attic or mounted outside if the reception is spotty.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4XVOOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WDR94U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this?
It is available through numerous shops online (google for hdmi switch 1 in 2 out)
Also found one on Newegg.com

Yeah I use my dvi port too and I only have 1 HDMI slot. I have been trying to do research to see if you can split it, using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CNE86960-HDMI-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B0015YRMXI

But I do not know if it works. If someone can verify this, that would mean a lot. Maybe try posting a separate post on here and even Vive to see if someone has a product that works. Also happy cake day.

https://www.amazon.com/CNE86960-HDMI-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B0015YRMXI

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-HDMI-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B0015YRMXI/ref=pd_sim_e_4 and an HDMI cable or 2

LiveGamerPortable and the Elgato are both solid cards however each have there flaws.

LGP has horrible software and is very finicky however if you can get it working it's brilliant.

Elgato is good but it struggles with Nintendo products. (mainly newer ones)

If you want to capture ps3 you will need a hdcp by-passer or you won't be capturing anything. I personally use this to bypass the hdcp, it's just a hdmi splitter but it luckily removes the hdcp protection: http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Port-Powered-Splitter-1080P/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1411774527&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=viewhD

... Hi Dan :D

I had a Roku plugged in to the ATEM directly. Wouldn’t display anything. Hook it up directly to a TV and it worked fine. Put the Roku through the Splitter and it magically works. Same thing with the Apple TV and the passive HDMI to DVI cable to the TV. It’s stripping the HDCP for certain.


ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2MN3D


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_buExDbD2PYE9G

The Windows 7 boot logo screen is always 1024x768 (some TVs report this incorrectly, or the GPU upscales, mine says is 1080p even though it obviously isn't) unless your monitor doesn't support that resolution (and will fall back to the legacy 640 x 480 Vista boot screen, but that's very rare nowadays). Once the video driver starts it will go to your normal resolution. So yes, the resolution change is normal.

I found an interesting thread here on stack exchange.

http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/169632/ps4-video-takes-a-long-time-to-show-up-over-hdmi

In other words, HDCP (High Definition Copy Protection) was causing his PS4 to have an extreme delay before displaying HDMI video. You may be having a similar issue.

Check the AMD Radeon Control Panel and look for something along the lines of "HDCP Status" in the monitor/HDTV settings. HDCP should be enabled. However if it isn't, something is not allowing the GPU and TV to establish a secure connection.

Make sure there are no devices (capture cards, splitters, etc) between the TV and video card. Make sure your GPU drivers are up to date too and try doing a clean reinstall of them. Otherwise, I would try is to replace the HDMI cable, as some can be built pretty shoddily. But it could be an issue simply between the GPU and TV. It does happen sometimes. If the issue is HDCP though, you might be able to use certain TV services like Amazon Video, Netflix or play Blu-Rays. If that doesn't concern you, you could just live without it.

I've heard that some HDMI splitter will remove HDCP. However, I have no experience with any for this purpose so I can't vouch for a specific one. Supposedly, this one will: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/?tag=hotoge-20

It's kind of funny as DVI was where HDCP started. HDMI support wasn't added until v1.1. Might be easier/simplify things if you just got an HDMI splitter box that also strips HDCP.

This is the one I and most people seem to use.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Ultra-HDMI-Splitter-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC?th=1&psc=1

I use the VHD-1X2MN3D https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/
Hasn't given me any issues at all!

I actually did this once!

My PS4 is on a living room, My bedroom is next to the living room. I used a holesaw to drill through the wall, then used an HDMI Splitter to run the HDMI signal to my PC Monitor and the HDTV.

Controller lag through drywalls were negligible. If Wifi (2.4GHz) can go through the wall, so will Bluetooth (also 2.4GHz).

I no longer do this as I rearranged my room and the HDMI Cord no longer reaches.

EDIT: For controller recharging, a USB Wall adapter works just fine


EDIT 2: For the splitter, this is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/

I found that even the pass through on my Elgato introduces a minor amount of lag, so I decided to bypass it all together with an HDMI splitter.

I got one of these on two different occasions (for two different televisions) and they work great.

Buy a capture card and stick with elgato or the HDPvr. Depends on what type of computer you have which is best.
I've heard elgato is best on macs and HDPvrs are better with windows.
Also.... you WILL need an HDMI splitter that will filter out the HDCP that Ps3 has to prevent recording in HD or else you'll have to hook up through component and your quality will suffer.
Supposedly THIS one is the best and eliminates HDCP totally so you can hook up HDMI from PS3 to splitter, HDMI to capture device, then HDMI to laptop/pc and to the TV.
Personally, I have the HDPvr Rocket which is portable and can capture on the fly. You can hook it up hard wired or record freestanding to a SD Card. Its THIS one.

Apparently this one works at stripping HDCP: http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Port-Powered-Splitter-1080P/dp/B004F9LVXC

It's the one i purchased, so when it arrives i'll tell you if it's true.

Is there any way to narrow it down to find out if that's the case? I've never heard of HDCP before, and the first google result let to a page (not apple related) that boiled down to saying try one of these for situations with non-HDCP compliant equipment.

Would that just bypass HDCP on the Mac end so I could at least rule that out? You said it happens a few times a year, see my edit and if that could indicate something else.

$18.

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/

Hello! I think the only way to actually do that is by using an HDCP stripping device such as this one. d('u 'd)

The one I've been using for years now (Let's Player) is this. Sorts out the ps3, ps4 and pstv for easy capturing

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC

Well, you can do it, but the best way I know of would be to use a capture card. The issue you run into is that the HDMI output on a PS3 is HDCP encrypted which won't jive with any consumer level capture card. The solution is to get a powered HDMI splitter that uh, accidentally strips the HDCP level of encryption and leaves you with the pristine HDMI signal which you can then pipe into a capture card.

For a splitter, I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a capture card, I recommend the Elgato HD60.

I'm not sure that there is a way to do what you're wanting to do for free. Sorry.

This fixed it for me. I was having the same issue with the slim, and the pro. Heads up it isn't 4k.

ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D

My mistake, $25. This is the one I've been using.

This is the one that I use! It was $18 when I got it, but it went up a tiny bit!

I got this one a few weeks ago. Works awesome and the build quality of it seems very good.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sony products run at 60 hz. Microsoft runs at 59.94. Bastards making it confusing. Give it a go, should fix the issue.(that is change the settings in the BMI device settings.)

Additionally, if you're interested in stripping HDCP, check out this it does the trick in HDMI form.

my mistake. After some looking around this powered hdmi splitter will strip the HDCP and is aparently the favorite method of streaming content form xbox and PlayStation, top review also confirms it works for direct TV

Acutally a splitter like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
strips out the HDCP. I know, I have one.
Couple that with a HDPVR2 (http://hauppauge.com/) etc... from Happauge, and you can capture whatever you want.

This is the splitter I use with my elgato to capture PS3 footage, it works like a charm. Hope this helps.

ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2MN3D: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497028306&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=viewhd+2+port+1x2+powered+hdmi+mini+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41OoScmjAQL&ref=plSrch

I have this for Direct Capture, works fine as it is.

Just have to be aware of whether you want 3D, HDR, 4K, you'll need one that's compatible.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Awesome. Thanks for the reply, so using this card looks like it would be better to build my own capture DVR rather than using the haupauge pvr?

So I'd essentially build a small efficient pc running Linux, add the colossal 2 as hdmi input and then use the ir blaster with the scheduler to change channels.

Would this pc need anything else other than a cheap motherboard/cpu/memory/hdd/psu and colossal 2 capture card?

Edit: quick hit of research says I would also need this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=15JKGZ2G9EX913KRTHQT

I use this HDMI splitter, and it works solid. An odd thing though, is that you have to plug a cable into both outputs or else weird things happen. The cable doesnt have to go into anything, just plugged into the box.

Not advocating piracy, I'm simply offering a solution from one tired church volunteer to another.


Invest in [this]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Don't connect anything else to the second output and it will strip the HDCP signal coming from the mac mini.

so mac mini (out hdmi) to HDMI DA to Bluestream matrix switcher.

Hope that solves your issue and please remember that piracy is technically stealing, so don't misuse this tidbit of knowledge.

I'm gonna give this a try to sort out the HDCP thing, and will post back the results: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC

No problem yo. Sure I'll link you some things.

This is an HDMI splitter. The one I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the capture device I got.
https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/game-capture-hd60

I got mine from Amazon.com though, I believe the price was a bit lower and also I have an Amazon credit card anyways. They have four diffferent capture devices priced differently with different specifications to suit your needs.

If you want to go with an elgato this should help you.
https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/capture-card-selector

This is my YouTube channel. Any recording of PS4/PS Vita in the past few months has been done using my capture device.
https://www.youtube.com/c/EnigmaticEntertainment

Hope it helps.

Rocketfish won't work for you, I tried the exact same thing. Return that one, and get this one from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I literally did exactly what you did: Saw the video, ran to Best Buy and picked up the RocketFish one, got home, and got pissed that it didn't work. I grabbed that (much cheaper) one from Amazon, and it works like a charm.

That's was my plan B. in fact, i just ordered this one.

http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=pd_sim_e_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=19B4EC7CZN7C2JD92810

Never tried it with an adapter, but out of curiosity... what's your upper limit on pricing? I found a pretty cheap $25 one at http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/

I have this one: [OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

Works great, and I'm using it for this exact purpose.

Buy 10 of these
2 of these
1 of these

and a bunch of HDMI cables

The device you have there is for multiple devices that you switch in between on a single HDMI on your TV so for example:

1. PS4
   
2. XBox
   
3. Switch
   
   and all are connected to the switch but you only have one cable to the TV. What probably is better is to just get a splitter that has one input but multiple outputs like this

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

EDIT: Can't promise on the reliable bit though, haven't used this in person.

Honestly I’m not sure if this is any cheaper for you than the other suggested one in this topic, but this one: https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS, I was guided to by a YouTube instructional video and it’s worked for me to record PS3 just fine.

My setup is very simple:
I normally stream capture from my PlayStation 3, PlayStation 4, Xbox 360 and Xbox One. I split my console(s) signal using this splitter. I then capture footage from my console(s) via a Black Magic Intensity Shuttle
For my audio I use a mixer. With a XLR Headset. All audio goes from my mixer to my Macbook Pro or PC using an XLR to USB audio adapter.
Camera is a Go Pro Hero 3+ Black Edition which is captured using a second Black Magic Intensity Shuttle. Its also pretty good with my chroma keying.

www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS?pc_redir=1410063791&robot_redir=1

I bought this one awhile back for the same reason as you and it works great.

I have this HDMI splitter, which bypasses the HDCP, but apparently OREI has updated it and it now is HDCP compliant. Search around on Amazon, YouTube, or even here on reddit for a splitter that is not HDCP compliant. They definitely exist, it's just a matter of finding the right one. I use mine with an elgato game capture HD, and it works flawlessly. I'd say that's your best bet...who knows when Sony will patch it, it could be months if ever. Good luck dude.

Gotcha. As a last resort I would try an hdmi splitter, they can sometimes help with handshake or even HDCP issues. I know this one for sure bypasses hdcp, but that's likely not your issue. Worth a shot depending how desperate you get. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1493237790&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496264038&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch

So that duplicates the HDMI signal, then you need to convert it to rca, then use a usb signal grabber to get it to the pi. Seems complicated but I don't think there is another way yet.

I'm hoping so too, but I don't think we're gonna have anything to worry about. The one thing I am kinda worried about though is Sony's HDCP. I'm loving Elgato with my Xbox, but, since I'm switching to PS4, I really, really hope I don't have to use component instead of hdmi like people have to with the PS3 due to the HDCP DRM restrictions

And, btw, you should be able to output from the Xbox in 1080p, too. Not sure 720. It's in the settings. I can look if need be.

Edit: got this today and works with ps4.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will duplicate the signal and output to two different tvs.

Also HDCP compliant

They both should work. Second would be if you want your consoles to go to two sources, first would one only one. When I stream my consoles, specifically PS3, I go from the Console, to HDCP Splitter, to Elgato and then Elgato goes to my PC via USBC and I just use the Capture Software to stream from. I don't even use the HDMI out from the Elgato. At that point tho, you have two sources you could push out from - the Splitter, or the Elgato, so any of those configurations would work.
The only correction to the image I'd make is, instead of a "splitter" that the PS3/PS4 goes to, get an HDMI Switch, to flip between the two as needed.

The problem with trying to record from a PS3 with a capture device through the HDMI is the HDCP, which is basically encryption. If you get a splitter like this or something similar, it can take care of the HDCP for you if you plug it in between the PS3 and the capture device. Make sure you have a TV or monitor plugged into the splitter's other output, though, as the splitter may cause funky things to happen if you don't. Also, you should know that regardless of your bandwidth constraints and such most PS3 games are 720p and not 1080p.

I have no experience using this (I've only split a signal 3 times), but it looks like the solution you want.

8-way HDMI splitter

I cut the cord and switched to OTA TV a few years ago, YouTube TV an the other online streaming services are a great idea but a bit late to the party for me.

I get around 60 channels with 4 tuners, 4TB of DVR storage, and can playback recorded or live TV to every device in my house. The initial investment was only a few hundred, most of that going to the PC.

Of course YMMV, but here's my setup:

Hardware

• 1x GE 33692 Attic Mount HD Antenna
  
  
• 2x HDHR Connect OTA Tuners
  
  
• 1x Splitter
  
  
• 1x 4 port GbE Switch (Uplink to WIFI router)
  
  
• 1x PC ( i5, 8GB Ram, 128GB SSD C: (OS, Guide), 4TB RAID 0 D: (Recordings), 1Gb Ethernet
  
  
• Multiple RG6 cables of various lengths
  
  Software
  
  TV "Server"
  
  
• Windows 10
  
  
• Sophos Home AntiVirus (Set to ignore D:)
  
  
• Windows Media Center
  
  
• ServerWMC
  
  
• (Optional) My Channel Logos
  
  Receivers
  
  
• Kodi
  
  
• pvrWMC Plugin (built into Kodi)
  
  
• VORKE Z1
  
  I have the Z1 connected to my TV that runs Kodi, and all of the other devices have Kodi installed from Kodi.tv or an app store.
  
  Basic setup
  
  
• Antenna in the attic aimed with the assistance of TVFool
  
• Short RG6 cable run to the splitter (boost it with an amp if more than 15 feet)
  
• 1 foot RG6 from the splitter to each HDHR Connect
  
• HDHR connects to switch
  
• PC to switch
  
• Connect a switch port to a LAN port on the router.
  
• Install Windows and set up recorder storage
  
• Install HDHR software
  
• Install WMC
  
• Set up WMC to your zip code
  
• Test live TV
  
• Run My Channel Logos and populate WMC
  
• Set up ServerWMC
  
• Set up Kodi on another machine
  
• Test
  
• ???
  
• Profit
  
  One day old guide screenshots
  
  Channels 2-9: http://i.imgur.com/qBhGVt8.jpg
  
  Channels 15-24: http://i.imgur.com/rywn87O.jpg
  
  Channels 24-29: http://i.imgur.com/wGK6t62.jpg
  
  Channels 29-45: http://i.imgur.com/XCqGXdL.jpg
  
  Channels 45-52: http://i.imgur.com/zInsWoG.jpg
  
  Channels 55-56: http://i.imgur.com/QmYLnQh.jpg
  
  Channels 56-65: http://i.imgur.com/UenOhUl.jpg
  
  Channels 65-68: http://i.imgur.com/RRwLFrF.jpg

The HDMI input from whatever source, in this case a Wii U and a Fire TV text to it: HDMI Input to HDMI splitter. One of the split HDMI cables goes to the TV, the other goes to an analog converter. The analog converter is the white thing in the back. The red/white/yellow video/audio cables go to the EasyCap which converts it to usb (The long usb stick looking thing, 3 usb ports from the left on the USB hub in the center). Then the USB hub to my raspberry pi2 (I ran out of usb ports on the pi itself). That's the setup for converting any hdmi source to analog so it can be analyzed by hyperion.

The lightpack itself also plugs into the pi directly via a normal usb connection.

Parts I used:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H3BSCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $8.90
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D66RAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $20.99
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FO7PQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $24.99
  
• Etekcity® HDMI to AV Composite RCA CVBS Video + Audio Converter For TV PS3 VHS VCR DVD (No longer listed on Amazon) - $24.99
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XVAVAW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $69.99
  

You might be able to use a device like this to split the HDMI from the console into two HDMI signals:

http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

Then one HDMI signal gets converted to RCA and then goes to your capture card/PC. The other HDMI signal goes to your TV.

HD capture cards like the Elgato work similarly. They have HDMI in from the console and HDMI out to the TV, as well as USB out to the computer.

You could possibly do it by using an HDMI splitter like this, then just set two TV inputs with different display settings. I'm not sure if the splitter would introduce any input lag though.

I suggest trying it first, you might find that it works fine without needing anything else. If you're having issues though, you can get a signal amplifier like this one to boost the signal as you split it.

http://www.antennaweb.org/

It looks like you'll want a multi-directional, but this site will give you a recommendation for what type of antenna to get.

To do it right, you'll also want to just drop the money on the amplifier (like this) and powered splitter (like this) as well. You'll obviously get better reception outside, but mine seems to work just fine in the attic.

Quick edit: By the way, that site gives you the recommendation when you click on the station colored boxes that actually say the color in them.

I used both of these.

Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WDR94U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Terminators:
https://www.amazon.com/Terminator-Port-Screw-5-2050Mhz-pack/dp/B008C8HNTI/ref=pd_sim_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008C8HNTI&pd_rd_r=NFR5R86DSA2V2D0GXH0B&pd_rd_w=fkH8B&pd_rd_wg=YivzP&psc=1&refRID=NFR5R86DSA2V2D0GXH0B&dpID=41h7DT7HRmL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Awesome, thanks so much.

• Here is the [amplifier] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WDR94U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=242MTTOZCY9KC&coliid=IUQQXRAFKNF83&psc=1) I was looking at. (It says +4.5dB per port, I can't seem to find one that says 10dB)
  
  
• Here is the [cable] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069F4H3G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=242MTTOZCY9KC&coliid=I1HOLBLATFE159).
  
  The cable would come in and split off directly to the modem and then to the splitter.

Doing it is easy. You'd have to buy a card that has the output you need. Most tv tuner cards can output over the coax connection and that would work fine for old TV's. Some older video cards (10 years or more) tended to have coax connections built in and could work if you're using an older computer.

If you want to do a video wall you'll need one card for each tv. If you want the same picture on all TV's then just get a powered coax video splitter.

Well. Let’s see here. I first purchased this antenna and this mast holder once I made the decision this year to cut the cord. Reading this sub, I quickly realized that I could use this mast amplifier to obtain about 10 more channels and this distribution amplifier to run the signals into 7 rooms of my house.

I configured and tested my setup in the middle of the summer thunderstorm season so I installed this UPS to prevent the brownouts that were occurring all too often during this time. I still had two television sets that were analog/CRT, so I purchased this set top converter which gave me the added bonus of Broadcast DVR when I purchased this flash drive to plug into them.
I then purchased two Roku3 units to supplement my broadcast programming. I also discovered that even when using a dual band router , I was only able to obtain a reliable 18 Mbit wireless stream in my far bedrooms from my Laundry Room equipment location. While this was sufficient for managing two simultaneous streams of HD for now, I was concerned that we would need to have 3 or 4 simultaneous streams or need to upgrade for UltraHD in the next year or so. I then purchased some Cat5e cable and ran 3 separate cables to each of 7 rooms and centralized all the lines into this switch which acted as my Ethernet distribution network.

I had an idle desktop PC with an AMD FX-8350 processor which I upgraded with gigabit LAN, 8GB DDR3 RAM, and five 3TB Disk Drives. I installed Plex Media Server based on recommendations from this sub and I have been torrenting like a madman to fill a little more than half this disk space in the past 4 months. I connected the media server to my Ethernet switch via a Gigabit link and have had no issues with lag even while transcoding on the fly. I plan to purchase some more streaming devices which will probably be Roku3 or Chromecast units depending upon the price and suitability.

My next step is to look at high quality music streaming and how I might integrate some vintage (1980s) audio equipment into this setup.

Yeah, if I didn't end up going with a TiVO OTA and using Ethernet and Moca to reach other TVs, I was gonna go with one of these myself.

PCT MA28PN RF Amplifier Passive Return CATV Amp 8-Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WDR94U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d5XXzbKC8ZE42

Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Bi-Directional-Amplifier-Splitter-Booster-Passive/dp/B000WDR94U

Includes power adapter. You'll need passive terminators for any connector not in use which are not included.

So yea, use a passive splitter and connect one run to the cable modem and the other run to this active splitter.

The other advice here is good on specific cabling and what not. I'm going to give my somewhat ghetto homeowner approach.

Your goal here is to have everything work right. A digital device (whether it's a TV box or your cable modem) is generally going to be more picky about signal quality than an analog device. Each split, unless put through a powered splitter, will somewhat degrade the signal. Therefore you want to have as few splitters as possible before any important devices (like your cable modem). All else being equal shoot for that, but don't kill yourself at first trying to perfect it.

If you hook up everything and it works, don't worry about it. If you have any questions or concerns, you can usually use your cable modem as a poor man's signal tester. You can plug it into the coax, then plugin your computer into the ethernet jack and visit the cable modem's diagnostic page and see the exact signal quality. Your TV or cable boxes may also do this. For example I have an HD Home Run prime as my main cable box and the diagnostic page displays this for me:

• Signal Strength 100% (2.6 dBmV)
  
• Signal Quality 88% (27.3 dB)
  
  I ended up having some issues when I installed my HD Home Run so I bought this powered splitter for like $45 and have been flawless ever since.
  
  Bonus tip: Make sure your coax is grounded going into your house and also run it through a surge protector before it gets to your cable modem. $500 of fried home electronics taught me this lesson the hard way when lightning struck a puddle right next to my entrypoint into the house. After that I went whole hog and got one of these lightning protectors too

Here's the report: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d9038bc19d1a155

It looks like I have "good" signal for all of the channels coming in from the MKE area, at least the ones I recognize and would watch.

That said, if I'm planning on only going to 4 TVs at the moment, would something like this be sufficient? (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WDR94U) or am I going to need an amplifier with it? It has a +4db amplifier built in, not sure if that's enough or really what it means.

If I were planning on 9+ TVs at some point in the future, would I be able to get away with another 4 way splitter off of that? or is an amplifier needed there?

I have something similar to this in my basement and it works like a charm.

One cable goes in and then it splits it to cable modem and 4 TV's (with a few spare).

If you decide to go with an amplifier, here's the one I went with. I'm quite happy with it, and it's made of porcelain or some other robust material that can handle the heat. It's powered with an adapter that delivers through coax, so you can plug it in at a distance from the splitter if necessary. If you get it, or something like it, just remember to get the little terminators for any of the lines you're not going to connect.

I don't know if this helps, but I wanted to be pro-active prevent this from being an issue. I wired my house with multiple RG6 (CAT6 as well) and all that is ran back to a central point. As it was, I needed to have a quality splitter to share an OTA antenna between TVs (or cable should I every have it.) Instead I bought an amplifier splitter. This one is rated from 5-1000mhz. It's working for me, but also isn't remotely even needed as I only have it routed to 1 output but eventually will have 2 more. So if it truly helps, I just don't know yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WDR94U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I forgot to mention that my splitter is an amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WDR94U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one should work right?

Yes. C&E CNE86960 HDMI Splitter Amplifier 1 In to 2 Out Dual Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015YRMXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BEwHxbNG68YNZ

This will just duplicate the signal from your hdmi and pump it to both at the same time. If you want it on the TV, just turn on the TV and change to that input.

What about this

Edit: oh right, HDCP

Ok, if that is the case then I am stumped. I don't know of a good way to repeat an HDMI signal over 3 TV simultaneously. I very quickly looked it up and found this on amazon. Not sure if would work or not.

This may be a better question for a home theater sub. I'm pretty good with the cordcutter side of things but not so much with this. Also, If the WAF (MAF) is really really important I might lean toward roku over firetv. I MUCH prefer the firetv (kodi) but from what I've seen it does need a little more of a technical touch than the roku.

Sorry, I wish I could help more.

You don't want to put the output of the TV on your laptop...

You want to put the output of your cable box on your laptop. Depending on what kind of laptop you have you can use something like this, or here is a more intricate module.

Your TV displays a video signal, your cable box provides the video signal. If you're looking to keep your TV plugged in at the same time you can use something like this.

Hope this helps!

http://www.amazon.com/CNE86960-HDMI-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B0015YRMXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413157717&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+duplicator

HDMI splitter?

http://www.amazon.com/CNE86960-HDMI-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B0015YRMXI

I do have speakers on the projector.

Would something like this do the trick? http://www.amazon.com/CNE86960-HDMI-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B0015YRMXI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421775310&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+amp

I was planning on just doing HDMI to the projector, and using audio out from the projector to my speakers but that wasn't working either.

http://www.amazon.com/CNE86960-HDMI-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B0015YRMXI

this doesn't solve the split screen issue but it's cheap.

You could just get a hdmi splitter on Amazon and that would do the trick. Something like thishttp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015YRMXI?cache=983366dbed6fed097460468f04be4f74&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1407688483&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015YRMXI?ref=olp_product_details

This will work, gives the same image to both tvs at all time.

None I can see. Either should work fine.. Actually This one is cheaper than both. And should work fine.

Anything else I can help you with today?

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/185-4394668-3254016

This one should work:)

I have a similar problem to yours but instead of a PS4, it's a PC. Basically, I have 2 monitors and I like to switch one monitor from PC to switch and viceversa and my monitors only have DVI and VGA ports. This obviously sucks because I can't switch the monitor output from DVI to HDMI which would have helped a lot instead of the setup i got. I do however got a speaker set that does allow for multiple inputs, so that will work great with my switch and PC in theory. I have a discrete audio card, you should be fine unless you want to route the sound from the PS4 using TOSLINK (I do believe it has one).

So, all I can tell you from my experience... before you buy something like this, is that you do check that the device will let you add an HDMI to DVI converter to the end. In my case (the one I linked) it did not work. I wouldn't get a signal working out with the adapter... shocking i know, because it even says that it won't work with a passive HDMI to DVI adapter on the amazon listing. Anyway, I kind of lucked out because I had bought a capture card in the past and all I have to do is route it to my capture card and use the passthrough function of it (which essentially rebuilds the HDMI stream? I have no idea). I can then use my HDMI-DVI adapter and it works perfectly. The caveat though is that my PC has to be on while I'm playing. Which isn't much a deal because I actually use both most of the time.

But anyway, you obviously shouldn't be buying a capture card for this (unless that's what you want, then the above setup should work fine?), if you do end up buying something like I linked (2+ hdmi switchs with audio extractors) and it doesn't let you use the adapter for HDMI to DVI for your monitor then you can probably get something like this. I haven't test it out so I can't tell if it'll work but it should be doing the same that my capture card is doing. Obviously, it would be best if you could get a 2+ hdmi switch to DVI with audio extractor but there's none i could find.

If you do end up with a setup similar to mine, know this:

1. You'll end up with 2 devices that need their own power supply and both of them will be on while you play.
   
2. You'll need a considerable amount of hdmi cables (I'm terrible at cable management)
   
3. When there's no source detected the switch will be actively searching for a HDMI signal and that somehow prevents monitors/TV sleeping functions. I think it will depend on your monitor and hdmi switch but in my case I have to turn off the monitor connected to the switch when i'm not using it.
   
   And at last, with the amount of money you'll spend on a speaker setup, hdmi cables, passive adapters and the HDMI shenanigans you can probably just buy a 30" inch smart tv for like $100 bucks. Hell, I'm sure you could find old as hell gigantic hdmi tvs for $100 or less. My step dad couldn't get rid of his old as hell 55" tv and had to actually pay money to get rid of it.

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-VHD-1X2MN3D/dp/B004F9LVXC

Same here, but using a Hauppauge Colossus 2. I always wanted to try this or the HD60 Pro since the Colossus 2 only does 1080i and 5+ second lag makes using the cable remote tricky. It's not just for freeing up space on the DVR, they tend to die on a whim and then everything is gone when trading it in for a new one. Not everything can be streamed or downloaded. Also, I can watch cable (or Roku) in a window or fullscreen on my computer monitor, I haven't owned a TV in years.

Anyone wanting to go this route, this is the splitter that removes HDCP.

ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2MN3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bTntDbFJ57HXG

Cheap. And problem solved

That sounds awesome bro. I am using the Elgato HD capture run through an HDMI Splitter, for some reason that lets me use the HDMI cable instead of the cable they provide ;). I used Final Cut Pro X for the editing, made the spinning logo via Motion 5 and encoded it for YouTube with Compressor 4. I love making these videos and and currently working on some sweet animations for the crew. We have to talk so we can plan some things, you know as I do, the more footage you have the better. Hit me up.

I have a channel and my setup works for my ps4. First, gonna need a recorder. I use a hauppage hd pvr 2. They've gotten newer ones since. The thing is you will need to bypass hdcp. They have a method that turns off hdcp but i don't know how well it works. The ps4 function only works for 15 minute chunks. For audio i use my phone and mic. I think the hauppauge official program works, but my laptop isn't beefy enough.

For the bypass is use a powered splitter i got off amazon.

This is the splitter i use. Super easy and works fine. Have had 0 issues with it. Hope this helps.

Yup, more clutter. Who knows if would fix your issue, but I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC

Your video is marked as private, so I cant watch it.

If your problem is HDCP, buy this splitter. I have the splitter to connect my chromecast to a VGA projector. The splitter strips the HDCP. This allows you to freely convert the HDMI signal, or to send it as is to a non-HDCP compliant monitor/TV.

Here is a 1 to 2(cable box to two componets) splitter http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1408799072&sr=1&keywords=hdmi+splitter. Works great. My girlfriend used to complain about everything going through the xbox but I still wanted the xbox TV feature to work and this little puppy made both of us happy. Good luck.

HDMI splitter but also HDCP stripper:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/


Come to think of it, a dedicated HDMI->HDMI HDCP stripper would make for a fun FPGA project. Only problem is extracting the keys from the donor.

I was recommended this one from someone else on here ant it works for me.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/

The video I linked is the raw livestreamed video, no re-uploading or editing from a vod. I livestreamed it on YouTube and after the stream it was saved onto YouTube like that.

I use GPU to record and CPU to stream. Since my GPU is significantly more powerful than my cpu.

The recorded footage, I was going to use as a backup in case something went wrong with the livestreamed footage for whatever reason. Like a bunch of dropped frames or something. But that hasn't happened yet.

My cpu usage when streaming is only around 51% and GPU usage is only 20%.

I have a hard drive that is literally only used for recorded footage. It is fragmented but that's fine because the footage doesn't need to be defragmented. If the footage gets used, it'll only be thrown into Adobe premiere, edited, uploaded, then deleted from the drive. No use in keeping it around if it'll be on my YouTube account forever. But recently I haven't had to use the recorded footage because the livestreamed footage is good enough.

Hope that helps answer your questions! Not trying to debunk anything you're saying, just giving more intimate details about my setup!

I do use a hdmi splitter inbetween the HD 60 pro, ps4 pro (any console for that matter), and my monitor. But that hasn't been an issue for months. I think the purpose of it, if I recall correctly, was to use it to record / stream older consoles like the Xbox 360 with the HD 60 pro. And it works very well for that. So I just kept it in the hardware loop. This is the one that I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC

I hope that helps you guys help me!

I use HDMI splitters to avoid HDCP issues. When I had DirecTV I used this splitter to send HDMI to my Slingbox. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_TjGLAb9ZXSA2M

I just got this for my PS3 and was surprised it worked with my shield for stripping hdcp:

ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[insert boilerplate about how using a splitter that can strip HDCP to bypass copy protection may not be legal yadda yadda yadda]

​

I personally use https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC and have had no issues with capturing my PS3 or PSTV.

It could be some part of the link does not have the bandwidth (or the signal strength) to support the full data rate (when using 1080p and/or deep color). FWIW, I had the same problem with a Denon s710w. Using 1080p/60 or deep color caused the signal loss every few seconds. 1080p/24 or 720p or forcing 8 bit color from the source helped a bit. Eventually switched to the NR646 and 1080p/60 works flawlessly (didn't try deep color though). It's even going through 50 ft of basic redmere hdmi, an hdmi coupler, and another ~20 ft passive hdmi.

Things you could try:

1. disable deep color
   
2. lower the resolution or refresh rate
   
3. add a cheap powered hdmi splitter before your wall plate, which adds voltage to the signal. I've read that this helped some people, but it didn't work for me.
   
4. try a different brand of receiver if yours can still be returned. Maybe use yamaha since it worked for the previous owner.

This looks like the culprit:

http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-VHD-1X2MN3D/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1458193236&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+splitter&refinements=p_36%3A1253503011

We did try switching out a few cables (mainly finding a short cable to run from the splitter to the capture card to avoid any potential signal loss), but nothing made any difference. I'm just curious to find out what it is about the splitter that's raising the HDCP flag - especially considering that it could capture the signal just fine if you ran it straight from the source computer. I worry that this won't be solved by getting a different switcher, or even a different capture card.

No, you very much still need to strip HDCP if you intend to capture PS3 through HDMI. That model splitter I'm not familiar with, the ones I know that used to work had a smaller casing such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=pd_sim_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004F9LVXC&pd_rd_r=930P4QAF95JQYJDV7B3V&pd_rd_w=X0fLg&pd_rd_wg=REbye&psc=1&refRID=930P4QAF95JQYJDV7B3V

This one right here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 along with a powered switcher https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Adapter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ is what I use , the splitter removes the hdcp signal is why I use it with my PS4

You need an HDMI distribution amplifier, sometime erroneously referred to as an HDMI splitter. Amazon has a bunch. The best part is, they're mostly powered by a 5 volt wall-wart. And guess what else provides 5 volts. USB! So get yourself a USB to DC jack cable and power it from an extra USB port or a cell phone battery.

I use Elgato HD60 (not the new S variant) for PS2, PS3, PS4 and Wii. Whenever pound decides to makes a new version of the hdmi cable for OG Xbox then I'll be using it on there as well. For the consoles without an HDMI output I use a converter/upscaler (component to HDMI). If you want to capture from from a PS3/PS4 you need a HDCP stripper: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC
The viewHD splitter I've had for over 4 years with no issue.

Just so you know if you plan on using the PS2 with a converter or upscaler while playing 240p games (Megaman X Collection) you need FMCB with GSM to "upscale" the game to a resolution supported by Elgato HD60 (and perhaps your TV).

Alternatively, I see a lot of speedrunners on twitch use https://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y for capturing from Genesis, SNES, Dreamcast etc.

you need an HDCP stripper at the beginning of the series. Mac HDMI out into 1x2 HDMI DA( this does the HDCP strip) HDMI out from there to everything else.


https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491245444&sr=8-1&keywords=hdcp+stripper

HDCP. It's a copy protection that scrambles the signal from the console so you can't record. You have 2 options.

1. Turn it off. On PS4 it's just a setting somewhere in there you can toggle on and off. However it has to be on for video applications like Netflix, etc to run. So be aware of that.
   
   
2. Buy an HDMI splitter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_x1bt5fA8qkCig
   
   It's not an advertised feature but it strips out the HDCP. No more flipping that setting, and it works to strip it off of HDMI from a PS3 (or whatever) as well.
   
   EDIT: Additionally, the splitter lets you avoid running the signal that's going to the TV through your capture device. I know nothing about the particular one you're using, but it could be introducing a delay to the image going to the TV. So overall I'd recommend the splitter and an appropriate amount and length of HDMI cables. Also be aware the splitter is powered, so have a free outlet on your power strip.

No, they aren't. Here's a BD-R drive for $60 - $15 promo code, DVD burners are $15, so they're $30 more than DVD drives nowadays. (e: PriceZombie says the low on that drive was $35 - so they're ~$20 more than DVD drives on sale).

As for HDCP - HDCP is in every GPU and monitor made in the last 5 years, even the low-end cheapie models. Trust me, I bottom feed hardware. If you're running Windows 7, odds are your hardware is recent enough to do what you need.

If you're upgrading Grandma's vintage Pentium 3, you can fix the display issue with a $25 HDCP stripper box. Or, dodge the whole hardware issue and find yourself some HDCP stripping software. I know there's AnyDVD HD as a commercial product ($70), and I'm sure there's some free alternative out there too if you're willing to futz around to make it work.

By dodging Bluray, you're saving yourself maaaaybe $100, best case. Most people are just saving the $30 on the drive. Once upon a time VHS tapes were cost-advantageous, too.

It really sounds more like you're outraged about HDCP existing...

As far as I know, the PS4 will use the same HDCP encryption as the PS3, meaning that you can not use a capture card to capture video from the device. Now what you can do is use something like this to bypass the HDCP and capture the PS3/PS4 with HDMI. It would be nice if there was no encryption on the PS4's HDMI signal, but there are workarounds if worst comes to worst.

Just as a heads up, you can easily bypass the HDCP issue by using this in between your PS3 and your Elgato:

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC

I use it to stream PS3/PS4, works like a charm.

If going that route, you may want to ask for tips over at /r/retrogaming for good places to hunt for decent CRTs, and which ones are worth looking for. I know Sony Trinitrons are the most sought-after TVs for classic gaming, as they were designed differently than other CRTs and had much higher video quality (check out this video if you're curious why). Unfortunately, though, these TVs are usually hundreds of dollars even today...

Otherwise, I know I've personally had no problems with my Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW computer monitor, which has tons of different inputs (S-Video, Composite, Component, DVI, and VGA). I have all of my old and new systems hooked up to it, and the picture quality for the older systems is much better than a lot of LCD TVs I've seen. Note that while it has no HDMI port, DVI and HDMI use the same digital video signal. I have my PS4 hooked up with a straight HDMI-to-DVI cable and a USB audio adapter for the sound. Unfortunately, this monitor does not support HDCP, so the PS4's media apps (YouTube, CrunchyRoll, etc) and BluRay playback won't work with it. I've heard one of these things can make it work with HDCP, but I haven't gotten one yet, myself.

I use this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qq2RAbNYKFME4

Hdcp issue here too. My tv will switch from any hdmi source to the tuner if you accidentally press channel up/down. Then when you change back to Roku source you get a beautiful hdcp not authorized screen. Then you either unplug or reboot thru the settings menu to fix it. It sucked so I bought a
ViewHD hdmi mini splitter per suggestions here and no more issue.

You can get separate HDMI converters that will work with any Capture Card. Here are a few from Amazon (I own each of these except the component one, and they work fine):

Component to HDMI Converter

Composite AV to HDMI Converter

HDMI Splitter

The splitter is nice to have, you can use it to enforce compatibility with the PS3, which usually has HDCP issues with capture cards.

I guess I have been wrong all this time. The Decimators have really bailed me out of most HDMI or Mac to System issues I had always thought it was circumventing the HDCP. I even use it on my DirecTV Satellite Receiver to go to SDI without an issue.

However because of these Reddit posts I decided to do a Mock up just between my TV, a SDI Monitor, a Decimator MD Cross and a couple of devices.

Of course now that I know that the Decimator will not pass HDCP content, Both the PlayStation 4 and my Blu-ray Player both failed the test, but as expected my MacBook Pro did output to the Decimator, but did it beat the HDCP just for the MBP? No.

Dealing mostly in Corporate AV the end goal is to get a Keynote or Playback Pro off the machine and into the video rig once it works you really don't think much about it.

The only time I know my MBP with do a HDCP check is when playing a purchased movie in iTunes. It would not play an iTunes movie with the Decimator attached, I guess I was wrong.

However what still works is a Cheap 1x2 HDMI DA feeding the Decimator so theres that.

> What do you mean I don't?

Ah, with things that require HDCP there really isn't anything you can do with the PS4 to get around that if your display can't get any kind of picture with it turned on, hence the need for something in the middle.

I wouldn't know what kind of splitter to get, I just know you'd have to remove the HDCP protection from the video signal before it gets to your TV if you want it to work.

google gave me this as a result and people say it's been removing the HDCP stuff for them so hey: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478119474&sr=1-1&keywords=hdcp+stripping

Oh your using mac? I cant hate cause I love modul8 but macs are a pile of shit hardware wise.

In that case I would say a distribution amp to split your signal into another machine that can record from OBS. https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 you can get an hdmi splitter for low end 20-30 bucks. Of course you would need an additional PC for the recording so the other guys SD option may be better.

For anyone wanting a slightly more in-depth description, the PS3 and PS4 both and HDCP encryption on their HDMI Outs. PS4 was delivered a toggle in a patch that will turn off HDCP and turn off the ability to access blu-rays and video streaming apps. PS3 never had this option removed, so to record with a system like an El Gato you would need to reset the PS3 and have it output over D-Terminal (that may be wrong, I just call it my capture wire) into the El Gato, and then into the TV through HDMI. PS3 is very complicated for a first time recorder, so I can understand how you may just jump ship. HDCP can be broken using certain HDMI Splitters though. If you were ever looking for one I've heard good thing about this one. Cheers!

Oh please. I hate HDCP as much as the next guy but let's not pretend it's a major issue.

If you have hardware that doesn't play nicely with HDCP, just do what people have been doing for the last decade. Hop onto Amazon and buy an HDMI extender or 1x2 distribution amp. They're HDCP compliant on the input and conveniently forget to implement HDCP on the output. Your devices see the DA as the end of the chain so HDCP isn't broken.

Here's the 1080p version for $25. Amazon link

There might already be a 4k version but I haven't needed to find one yet. It's pretty much guaranteed that one will exist at some point.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

That's the one I use. Works great.

It even says supports HDCP in the description

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these a couple years ago and they worked to strip HDCP - but they might have changed in the interim,

I bought this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then ran the 2nd HDMI output to any HDMI recorder. No HDCP issues (this off-brand model, uhhh, ignores HDCP....)

So, you can put this on the output of your Roku, then run one of the outputs of this device to a recorder like /u/greeneca88 recommended.

Easiest way to get everything but working microphone for PS4 conversations.

This let's you split your output to TV and Capture card AND strips the DHCP.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using an Avermedia HD Live Stream Card. So from that point i just have to full screen Recentral and Monitor capture it.

As far as getting your mic to work with both, i'm not certain.

note - i haven't messed with mixers much though (i dont' have one).

If HDCP is the culprit, this will strip the HDCP from the signal, allowing you to use it on non-HDCP device. Chromecast would go into the input, the other end would go to your TV.

If you're planning to do PS3 over HDMI you can just get something like this to bypass the HDCP. It works perfectly well for me.

Would a powered hdmi splitter like this cause any display lag? Or would it just essentially act as a longer hdmi cord?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is what i use to stream rocksmith and other games with my hd 60s. never had an issue with it besides forgetting to plug it in!

I have had success with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/

Use one of these.

Here's what people say about it working with PS3/4

you are on the right track for sure. all you need is that video capture card and this is the most highest recommended HDCP splitter. I bought a cheap hdmi splitter that didn't do the job right and this one worked a treat.

this thing and the capture card is all you should need
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

best of luck

it wont work you have to remove the hdcp with something like this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sounds like the HDCP (digital rights management) handshake is failing.
It's possible that your HDMI cable is bad or that either your laptop or TV isn't negotiating properly.

If your problem is infact DRM related, an easy solution is to get a cheap HDMI splitter that filters out the HDCP. Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I've seen people use so i got it myself and it works. One thing i learned recently is that some hdmi cables work better in one direction than the other. Yesterday i was only getting picture but no sound no matter what tv i connected it to, flipped the hdmi cable around and everything started to work again. So try switching out you hdmi cables and reversing them while double checking that all cables are where they should be (splitter before capture device) before moving on from what you have available.

Maybe for 4K, I don't know, but anything that outputs in 1080p or lower, can be split off to a capture card.
This deals with the HDCP
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC

You capture with something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014MQIVPS

When I was setting up all of my stuff to stream to bypass the HDCP on the PSTV I ended up using this. I've never tried using it to strip HDCP on anything else but thought I would mention it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

That splitter will do what you want on the ps3, if you didn't want to use the component cables instead. Not too expensive either.

I had this issue as well (with an old TV and a new Roku). I used this as a pass-through, works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_PlayStation_Vita_games

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey man, I just read your post and instead of you actually hassling away to figure out how to solve the problem here a solution.

ViewHD 2 Port

Only problem is that you might need to buy one more HDMI cable or two depending on your setup. I have had mine for a year and it's always on yet haven't had a issue with it.

Hmmm, looks like the one that I have but just rebranded. Looks suspiciously like the one from Sewell, which is confirmed not to work.
This is the one that a bunch of us have in that stream on my feed.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just wanted to give my 2 cents. Had a TV that did not support hdcp (5.2.5). Bought an HDMI splitter, now hdcp compliant Netflix works again. The splitter I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_

Good luck

Use one of these HDMI splitters, which conveniently remove the HDCP copy protection:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can easily get away with a mid-range i5 rig. Editing and encoding may be a bit slower than on i7/Xeon, but you can let that run overnight.

If you're recording from an HDMI source primarily, the Elgato HD60 has a hardware encoder for h.264.

One problem you'll run into, especially with the PS3 is HDCP protection. I haven't tested it, but it looks like this little box will strip protection from the video, allowing you to record.

Elgato wont work by itself you also need an hdmi splitter to remove hdcp. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this one works really well

I was thinking of getting https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC

HDMI splitter, Sir. Don't bother with the out on the card. Gaming PC to splitter, 1 out to monitor, 1 out to the card.

You'd need a splitter.

Youtube tutorial here.

And it's Sony cockblocking the Elgato. PS3 cockblocked too, which is why there was the component cable hookup.

You don't have $25? It's not as expensive as people think.

This is one that I've used in the past. Works flawlessly.

This one is the same thing, but branded differently.

maybe try http://www.amazon.ca/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ :D

I was going more for the HDMI capture card route. Right now I have a low price low resolution composite capturing device coupled with a splitter (that strips that pesky copyright checker). It's complete crap but it's what I have and the low res isn't going to justify me using it for live broadcast or extracting the episode from the DVR, DVR files are encrypted and since they took out the hard drives and went solid state, it's harder to extract them so just do it directly.

Not quite a "you broke it we fix it", but I can't figure out what I need to record 1080p from my PS3. It's supposed to be possible with some technical-loophole magic, right? I just can't figure out what I gotta get! I use an HDPVR2.

EDIT: I chose the wrong term/phrasing. Allow me to correct:

What do I need to record from HDMI on PS3?

I already did some research and I think I've gotten my answer. For those interested, it seems like you really just need an HDMI splitter that can circumvent the HDCP engrained in the PS3. There are a few of them, and two of them I've seen recommended are:

This one.

and

This one.

I see. I'm actually about to do a 50' run WITH an adapter (going to use this splitter) to mirror whats on my computer monitor to my projector. If you're right, this will likely not work :\

I'm out of town for the weekend but I'm pretty sure I have this exact one.

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

I have my cable box -> splitter -> Xbox HDMI in. I've had this splitter for at least 3 years. I originally got it when I was in college so I could have an awesome man cave. Found out later that it strips the hdcp and allowed me to stream my cable TV to my windows tablet from my xbox. Heres a link for a little more info on hdcp stripping.

http://www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/

There are more expensive capture cards from Elgato and Avermedia that has a hdmi output that can be used to send to the tv but I will show you how on this capture card im selling.

1. Xbox HDMI to a hdmi splitter. an example this one https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS
   
   This splitter takes 1 hdmi input (from the xbox hdmi in this case) and has 2 outputs. Those 2 outputs will be the TV and capture card.
   
   
2. From the splitter, you will have two hdmi cables. One hdmi will go the TV like normal. The other hdmi will plug into the capture card.
   
   
3. Once those are hooked up. Plug the capture card into the PC or Laptop that your son uses. The drivers for the capture card should auto install in Windows. ( I cant confirm how it will work on Mac or Linux.)
   
   
4. Download the software OBS which can be found here https://obsproject.com/
   
   
5. In OBS, add Video Capture device and the capture card should show up.
   
   Bonus - The manual details what settings you should use in OBS to get it up and running.

I use the Orei splitter: https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1516847852&sr=8-5&keywords=orei+hdmi+splitter

Thank you for the response! They are different native resolutions but I have changed in the settings for them to be the same to combat this issue. It still didn't fix it. Even if the monitor is plugged into the splitter by itself it is a black screen. If I plug in my TV to the splitter by itself it works fine. Also my 3 Asus monitors all work fine when plugged into the splitter (either by themselves or with the TV also). I was talking with a few other people and the predictions were:
> I suspect it is a color space issue. DVI only supports RGB color space. HDMI supports RGB and YPbPr. RGB is what computer monitors use and YPbPr is what TV's usually use. If the PC is outputting YPbPr for the TV and the monitor is only able to get RGB, well it may not be able to display the signal.

> It's a chipset issue with the Samsung monitor not being able to interpret the YPbPr color space, even though it is only about 7-8 years old.

> The computer may use drivers to support the output to that monitor and when it's plugged into the splitter it is no longer receiving driver support.

I contacted the company OREI and they said:
> Thank you for contacting us. You'll have this issue with the HD-102 when you are connecting two different display types (TV and Monitor). You won't have this issue if both are monitors or both are TV. In this case, we recommend the OREI HDS-102 which supports EDID selection.

So now my question is which of these issues is it actually?

OREI believes that if I return the splitter I have HD-102 and get HDS-102 that my problem will be solved. Any other opinions?

I don't believe the USB 3.0 protocol can support 144Hz. It makes sense it would downclock it to the lowest common denominator. I would recommend you instead get an HDMI Repeater/Splitter and split the single hdmi output you have and send one to your monitor and one to your capture pc. There shouldn't be any noticeable lag doing this way.

Here's one under $20: OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter Ver 1.3 Certified for Full HD 1080P & 3D Support (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R5YJBbZBMAV6N

I have my setup just how you want yours. I'm using this splitter. OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter Ver 1.3 Certified for Full HD 1080P & 3D Support (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_h1uAub1FVJ274

Sometimes i have to unplug it and plug it back in to watch tv on the Xbox. Otherwise it's black screen and only sound. Not sure if it's splitter or Xbox issue because tv always works without Xbox. I'm ok with it as I don't really watch tv on Xbox anyway.

I have two of these: http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415394816&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter

This one supposedly works.

No they do not play/stream to more than one tv. Only the tv they are connected to. Being on the same account does affect the situation.

You could connect one Roku to a splitter (linked below) and run a long HDMI cable to another room. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Scs1BbDCW8RWW.
I've heard of wireless HDMI options but know nothing about them. Maybe someone else knows?

Well most capture cards like the Live Gamer HD (C985 - what I use) use an HDMI Passthrough. Although you're going to have to also get an HDMI Splitter to alleviate the HDCP issues....but I wouldn't necessarily say there's any input lag. That, paired up with Xsplit Broadcaster / Gamecaster Console Viewer actually works fairly well. I wouldn't say I have any experience with playing a rhythm games on it, but I will say that playing other games that are lag-sensitive (Street Fighter), I don't have any issues. Check it out.
Splitter
Live Gamer HD

Your current capture card should be fine, you'll just need to use a splitter with it. I recommend the OREI HD-102.

edit: Apparently there is a new version of that splitter and it won't bypass HDCP anymore.

SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | OREI HD-102 1x2 Port HDMI Splitter Unboxing!!! (Very Useful for HDCP Bypass)
Description | Unboxing the OREI HD-102 1x2 HDMI Splitter! Subscribe for More and hit that like button if you enjoy and want to see more! ►Purchase and OREI for Yourself: http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS ►BYPASS PS4 HDCP TUTORIAL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5bdbF_3VLM&list=UUvei6bzXOIdZLqiMLMGZDBg&feature=c4-overview Donate and Support the CS3Army Here!: Send Donations via Paypal to: [email protected] (Go to PayPal.com and Go to "Send Money" and send...
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This is the one I used for another project:

OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter Ver 1.3 Certified for Full HD 1080P & 3D Support (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ggm-BbJ9AP3SB

Worked great!

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

You would want something like that, I'm sure you could find one with only two if you looked

here are HDMI splitters out there contrary to manys belief using just 1 splitter will not make a noticeable signal difference however since I have never used a rift I can't speak for the kind of bandwidth it would take or if it enforces HDCP but for the most part id say you will be fine. Here's an example of an HDMI splitter that should do the trick this one in particular actually strips HDCP protection so if that is the issue it shouldn't be an issue

Edit: I was a poor uneducated fool I hath sense been educated please do ignore me lol

I searched and found this powered splitter

1x2 HDMI Splitter by OREI - 1 Port to 2 HDMI Display - Powered Splitter Ver 1.3 Certified for Full HD 1080P & 3D Support (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9mg2CbVA3WRHN

The problem is it says for under 30 ft and for my tv to connect I’d need a cable that’s 59 ft. Do any powered splitters support that?

Another one that works that I use this one

So using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=C5QQZ5MS3H28VQ860F37&th=1

where I connect from the TV into HDMI Out 1 and 2 on the splitter and then connect HDMI In on the splitter to HDMI Out on the receiver would work or no?

Bro I am quiet sure that you need some sort of a power input as well to supply the sufficient signals to your desired display.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS
This would act like an amplifier.

OHHHH thanks so then is this what im looking for?

http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418727676&sr=1-6&keywords=hdmi+splitter+1+out+2+in


or even this

Hdmi splitter for mirror display http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451084311&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+mirror

Buy device that support miracast

A piece of hardware might work. https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1452460958&sr=8-8&keywords=best+hdmi+splitter


is this a splitter? i think i still have it from when i used my ps4 before the hdcp thing :p

Haven't done a lot of research but this what I was going for https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_trWxwb3M0QYR9

This is what I use and it strips it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_QR7YzbB05VV5T

I bought this one to use with my PS3:

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478808828&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Orei+HD-102+1x2+1+Port+HDMI+Powered+Splitter+Ver+1.3+Certified+for+Full+HD+1080P+and+3D+Support+One+Input+to+Two+Outputs+%28Black%29

Worked like a charm when I did extra life. Hope it helps! :)

I will be using my current headset (Tritton detonators)
but to get game audio i'll be getting an HDMI splitter example
then this to convert one of the HDMI cables to composite.
Probably going to find cheaper solutions for the parts, but this is just an example. and for voice i'm just going to get the adapter c:

Nah man, you can totally get them from Amazon or anywhere really. They're not marketed as stripping or even supporting HDCP, but many reviews mention they do, and it totally does.

There's a whole slew of very similar ones with slightly different casing. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ If you shop around, you can find probably 5 other splitters that are nearly exactly the same form factor- I'd bet they're the same mass-produced board in china, and just tossed in different cases by different companies.

EDIT: Recent reviews for that particular one seem mixed. Some say it is fully HDCP compliant, and will not strip it, some say it still works perfectly.

You can do this without software, all you need to do is buy a video splitter for the type of hookup you are using.

For instance, if you are using HDMI something similar to this would work.

This would also lessen strain on the Video card because it does not have to display the same image to two different outputs.

Looking at all the products being listed, they all will mirror the image which wasn't your goal, correct? The Cable Creation will extend the screen on Windows 10, but it looks like it won't do that for MacBook Pros. The HooToo product will just mirror the screen, but will give you additional USB ports. The ORIE just does the same as the Cable Creation.

Even with a product like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

It looks to be advertised to send one HDMI signal to two separate monitors. Maybe I'm just misreading.

edit; after reading down further in the Q&A it looks like you're right. I have two Thunderbolt 3 ports on my Macbook. So you're saying I should get two of those adapters, and go one cable into each monitor? Will this charge my laptop while it's plugged in? And how could I integrate the hub so that I can permanently leave my keyboard/mouse wireless connector in there? I would be out of USB C connections in my MacBook if I ran them both to monitors.

This is what I use. It bypasses HDCP too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Except I put the ps4 into the input, and then split it to my tv and my elgato. It will work for what you need to do too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased those thinking they will work. I just want to confirm, will they?

This project was inspired by a previous post by EvilBorisDX about a month ago. Thanks goes out to him for the idea, he provides some tutorials that are worth checking out - his implementation is based on Lightberry, which is a prebuilt package. I decided to build my own, and i'm glad i did - this is a really awesome addition to your gaming rig, and i recommend it to everyone! - Happy to answer any questions.

Looking around the web i found two great tutorials (linked in the video description) that helped me through the process, but it wasn't without some pain points. Here's a few key takeaways (and my parts list is at the bottom):

• You want an EasyCap grabber with the STK1160 chipset. I went through several, and while you can get it working with other chipsets (except the Somagic, if you get a Somagic just give up... it's not worth the effort, order a new one and roll the dice again), the STK1160 is by far the easiest. In fact, one of the tutorials has an SD image that will just straight work with this chipset.
  
• Not all HDMI->Composite converters are equal. First, Amazon sent me the wrong one altogether, which was a RCA->HDMI... took me awhile to notice that. Then, the replacement would only accept a 480p input (which forced the PS4 to display in 480p). After the replacement converter was in place, everything settled in and i was finally able to dial in my color settings and get this thing up and going.
  
• The replacement converter displays a test pattern when it has no signal, as opposed to just going to a black screen - so i had to add a power switch to the LED strip to be able to turn off the LEDs without shutting down the whole system. I decided to go with a Belkin WEMO so my fat ass didn't have to get up to turn off the lights, but any 2 pole switch inline with the power will work too.
  
• Don't be afraid to change the Hyperion color settings (especially the Threshold and WhiteLvl values) from what's shown on the web. Dial it in to your preference.
  
• Most tutorials call for you to power the Pi and the LEDs from the same power supply. I did not go this route since i wanted to be able to easily toggle the power to the LEDs without shutting down the Pi. If you go this route, you MUST ground the LEDs to both the power AND the Pi's grounding jumper, or the lights will not function properly.
  
  My full parts list is as follows. I found these to all work well, and the EasyCap is guaranteed to be an STK1160:
  
  
• WS2801 LEDs (Any WS2801 cuttable strip will work)
  
• Screen Grabber - STK1160 - There are cheaper ones available, but you take chances on getting a different firmware.
  
• HDMI Splitter
  
• HDMI->Composite Converter - Really don't mess around here. Get this one. It's not the same as is shown in the picture (it's white, not black), but it's 1080p and doesn't require external power. Only con is the test pattern.
  
• Any Raspberry Pi kit. I went with the CanaKit Starter kit with the Model B
  
• DC Power Adapter - To power your LEDs
  
• You'll also need misc cables (RCA and HDMI), some wires, soldering iron, 5v power port, etc... to set this all up. Good fun project overall.

This guy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What TV service do you have? I got my parents an Xbox One S awhile ago and it was doing the same thing with their DIRECTV receiver. The only way I was able to fix it was to put a HDMI Splitter in between the receiver and Xbox and now it works perfect. They don't have 4K so you might want to look for one if your able to get 4K from your tv provider.

Just grab a cheap Hdmi splitter off amazon and hook it up in line between your gaming device and your capture card. See link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497443411&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch

I have used this HDMI splitter for a couple of months to split the single from 1080p security cameras to two monitors and it works perfectly.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS

I will need both. Below is the current splitter and switch I have. I need the splitter to split the signal so one console will go to my PC(Elgato Capture Card) and BenQ monitor and switch to change from Xbox to PS4 etc...I've put my monitor, switch, and splitter below. Nothing works on 4K thought.

​

BenQ

Switch

Splitter

A splitter is the only method I know of to bypass; would be difficult to disable with software since it is hardware-level encryption.

>elgato

Fancy

Here are the options I have. https://imgur.com/a/ImPKc I had to take 2 pics since not every option fit in the selection window


 

Setup is: HDMI out ARC on receiver --> HDMI ARC on TV. Mac Mini HDMI out --> HDMI Splitter --> Media Center HDMI input on receiver

 

HDMI splitter is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ I had to use the splitter because the particular Mac Mini model wouldn't send the signal properly and it flickered every 7 secs (http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/archives/jan16/010416.html)

Powered HDMI splitter? Would this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453994162&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=powered+hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch

Yes. You will need an HDMI splitter. They run about $20 bucks I recommend this one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1451327597&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch

very doable. i use this to split to two simultaneous identical signals. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These HDMI splitters and switched basically remove the HDCP and just pass a standard signal. The decent ones have a metal casing and external power adapter. Something like this should do the job https://www.amazon.com/HD-104-Powered-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B007NKOC2W

You might get away with one of these (link below), though i've seen mixed reviews on them working, if that doesn't you may have to look at a KVM type setup, which can be expensive, depending if your laptop has any other ouputs too, if you have a DP(displayport) or VGA splitting them can be an option too.

https://www.amazon.com/HD-104-Powered-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B007NKOC2W/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3JEY93W8ACI0H&keywords=3+way+hdmi+splitter&qid=1568081171&s=electronics&sprefix=3+way+HDMI+%2Celectronics%2C369&sr=1-7

Well this is what I have ordered.

https://www.amazon.com/HD-104-Powered-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B007NKOC2W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536902841&sr=1-1&keywords=OREI+HD-104+1x4+4+Ports

HDMI Distro amp

cheap

http://www.amazon.com/HD-104-Powered-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B007NKOC2W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1420269911&sr=8-8&keywords=hdmi+distribution+amplifier

cheap for a reason, but it works till you find a better solution

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NKOC2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use my Elgato HD60 with this for my PS4. I'd imagine it'd work for PS3 as well.

I use this splitter - http://amzn.to/2iIyWEk - which strips the HDCP

Yes i do this all the time and works find. However if the resolution difference is between the 2 it defaults to the lower one. Also keep in mind it will only split the video not audio signal from it

Works well just make sure to pick a nice one and don't cheap out; got a great one for like 40-50 bucks from amazon. Have used cheaper ones and trust me there's a difference. This is the one i bought and works well http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NKOC2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Playing with my xim4 with keyboard/mouse makes alot of difference when playing FPS games. I usually split to my smaller tv on my desk and it helps alot.

Here is what I bought. I bought the 1x4 one but I would imagine that the 1x2 does the same thing. Sorry for the late response. Completely forgot about this

I understand, I am also digging for information to better understand what is going on myself.

For signal strength, I could increase it a bit using a different splitter to around -3.2 dBmV in the downstream, the upstream would be around 44.7 to 46.7 dBmV. Where I used to live the technician gave me an Extreme BDS102H, and where I am now the technician insisted I use a Commscope SV-3BG. I do not need a 3-way splitter though.

personally, avoid anything "gold" ... the splitters that comcast uses in my town are these: https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Digital-Performance-Splitter-BDS102H/dp/B007YV0UQW ... but if you go to an xfinity store they'd probably give you one for free.

Other options I wonder is: What is your Internet provider?

If it is cable and you have other coax outlets in your house you should be able to move the modem with no problem. If you get TV from the same provider you should be able to buy a coax splitter to split the signal so that both your TV and your cable modem can still plug in.

In terms of the beacons I would definitely play with them to see where you get the best speed. You can use the app to determine how good the general signal is to the beacons and see which devices are connected to which eero. This way you can test the speeds at the different placements.

If you have an HDMI output you could get one of these or if its a coxial output maybe one of these

Real CH2 and CH6 are down near the FM frequency range, your antenna won't even see those signals. Your signals are strong enough that an FM antenna would probably work and you don't need the amp. I'd get a FM folded dipole antenna (the T-type that you tack to the wall) like THIS and connect it to a Balun like THIS and then use a regular two-way coax splitter like THIS to combine the signals from the FM antenna and the 1ByOne into the TV/Tuner.

Instead of a simple T connector a 2 way coaxial TV splitter for SAT-TV or CATV will cost you around 3 USD and will provide correct matching and insolation. http://www.amazon.com/EXTREME-DIGITAL-PERFORMANCE-CABLE-SPLITTER/dp/B007YV0UQW

It will fit nicely with RG6 common F connectors and with ebay pigtails (MMCX-F) for TV usb dongles.

A Vizio VA220E? Are TVs obsolete after 5 years now?


>you can't have two sources of input on one input spot on the tv.

What about this?

I have mediacom internet but no tv service. I put a splitter on the coax cable, sending one to the modem and one to the tv. Most new TVs have a channel scan option, use that and you'll get quite a few channels. Fox, NBC, ABC, CBS, and 3 PBS are in HD. The rest (ESPN, Comedy Central, ect.) are SD.

Or did you mean that specific splitter? I rethought that and was going to use this instead. Splitter

USB will let you plug in as many keyboards and mice as you would like wouldn't it? Or a cabled keyboard/mouse and a wireless keyboard/mouse.

Then either find a way to mirror the desktop in software or use one of these. https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-JTD-MINI-1x2SP-Splitter-Capability/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466012726&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=hdmi+splitter&psc=1

Yeah, don’t use an optical splitter. Switch only has LPCM sound which will only be 2 channel on optical. Optical can only support 5.1 if it’s encoded with Dolby Digital or DTS and the Switch can’t use either (cus nintendo is cheap I guess). You COULD use an HDMI matrix like this guy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ix2ZAb0ZW1FK3

I can’t personally vouch for that particular piece, but I do use a 4 input, 2 output monoprice matrix myself (for reasons) and it works fine

You didn't specify input or output, I suspect output splitting? Anyway, I use this one to split my cable signal from the cable box. Cable box - splitter - then into Receiver and Xbox. Been using it since 2005, not a single (and I mean that) hitch.

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-JTD-MINI-1x2SP-Splitter-Capability/dp/B008D66RAU

Use a powered switch if you are not doing so.

There's a setting on the Xbox that has to go directly to the TV app on startup. That may help your wife come to like it better (aside from the longer time it takes for the console to cold boot.) If she doesn't touch the Xbox remote, and only used the TV remote, there's a good chance she'd never see any Xbox One UI.
Anyway, I too wanted the flexibility of having a "TV only" experience, as well as an "Xbox One with TV too" experience. So last week I got a HDMI splitter from Amazon, for $20, to solve this exact problem: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=pe_385040_127745480_TE_item

It works perfectly.

I ordered this one, works like a charm.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D66RAU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008D66RAU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked perfectly and does what you want to do.

Now the wife can turn on the TV and watch it normally and when I'm home I turn on the Xbox One and watch TV without having to change anything

An HDMI matrix switcher is overkill, in my opinion.

If you want your PC connected to your TV as well as the two monitors, it would seem an HDMI Splitter would resolve that issue. Connect the HDMI cable going to your receiver to the input on the splitter, then one output to the receiver, the other to the HDMI capable monitor.

For the laptop, as was previously suggested, a "universal dock" with two monitor outputs will take care of your laptop, though you'd need to manually change the inputs on your monitors...

Resposting.

Maybe use an HDMI cable to one monitor and a DisplayPort cable to the other? I see no other way of doing it. As a disclaimer, I've never used dual monitors before so I'm not sure how it works.

This guy did it on one graphics card with two different cables. Not sure if using a splitter is your solution, but here.

If you can place the Wii U in a place that the gamepad stays in range from either room, and run a cable from that spot to both TVs, then there should be no problem having it connected to both at the same time. Use a HDMI splitter - quick google found this - and it should work. Yes you'd have to walk over to the Wii U if you wanna switch the game disc, but besides that, you pretty much never care where the console is physically located as long as it's connected to the TV and the gamepad is in range.

I'm not entirely sure this will work but it might. It will require three hdmi cords and this hdmi splitter http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

The concept is basic, you plug the hdmi into the Xbox one and the splitter then have an hdmi run from the splitter to the cable box and another from the splitter to the surround sound.

You can have multiple monitors running off one HDMI port if you do not mind them all showing the same image. This might be handy if you are doing a presentation or other multiple person meeting where you want to see what's going on and show others too, perhaps with a large screen TV/monitor and/or projector.

But I do understand what you are trying to convey. OP wants 2 displays (with different images) and you can not do that with just a connection to a single HDMI port. In OP's case he would have to either have a DisplayPort MST Hub (which has separate data lines for each monitor) or adapters for both his HDMI and DP ports on his notebook.

You could get something like this

http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

If you wanted to get a different model make sure it supports sound, some of the cheaper ones only split the video.

I specifically know about the MoCA protocol devices but I imagine DECA and HPNA works the same or in a similar way too. Below video shows someone connecting multiple DECA transceivers together to create a bridge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xuAiP_qcUs

Note, I connected 3 MI424WR devices together which all use the same MoCA protocol. The protocols are not compatible with each other and if you choose a specific device with a specific protocol, you better stick with that protocol on future devices or it won't work. I chose the MI424WR as I had one already with my FiOS install so I decided to buy 2 more on eBay for my TV's when I cut the cord. Keep in mind, you don't need FiOS to have these routers/transceivers work in your home. I do recommend getting a MoCA filter and connecting it to where your cable comes into your house/apartment.

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

There are multiple versions of the MoCA protocol. MoCA 1.0 has a speed of 100Mbps, 1.1 is 175 Mbps, 2.0 is 500 Mbps, and bonded 2.0 is 1Gbps. Devices are backwards compatible and will slow itself down if there are any lesser devices on the MoCA network. YMMV due to the type/length/condition of coax wiring ran through the house. My coax going through the house is older (I believe RG59). This along with other factors unknown to me, the speed my routers report is around 220 Mbps throughput. This isn't the magic number 500Mbps or 1Gbps but its still fast enough for me to stream my DirecTV Now and Youtube without any buffering issues simultaneously on multiple TVs which is good enough for me.

** More information on MoCA Standards
https://www.actiontec.com/wifihelp/wifibooster/difference-moca-1-0-1-1-2-0-bonded-2-0/

This is what worked for me. Prior to purchasing anything, do a little research and see what makes sense for your setup.

If you aren't familiar at all with how the coax is run in your house then I wouldn't worry about it and just get a MOCA filter. It's probably best practice overall anyways to go ahead and get one.

Here is a cheap one on Amazon with prime and free shipping https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M6jmDbVFF06WB

You can do a Google search alternatively for MOCA filters or check at a local Walmart or electronics store for them. This will connect at the Point-of-Entry to the residence where your ISP brings in their coax cable line to your house and before your modem.

If you have their internet only plan, and they do provide internet via a cable modem, this should work fine. I've done some quick google online and see that many other people use their service and have installed MoCA here on Reddit too. It looks like you will want to utilize a MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking with their service which isn't a big deal.

​

Now it is a matter of you getting the things you need to put it all together and get your network set up.

• Yes I made sure each smart tv does in fact have ethernet ports to connect to. So I am good there. The tech guy really confused me when I asked him if my hypothetical setup would be sufficient which is how I found this sub lol. He mentioned the installed booster might conflict things???
  
• Switch description states "Gigabit Ethernet Easy Smart Switch."
  
• The Moca I linked states in the description as bonded. I asked him if the moca filter would be necessary as well. He just shrugged at me.
  
  
• Which would you think to be the more ideal setup - switch or moca?

First off - if you are going to run cable, don't run Cat 5...do Cat 5e at least...preferably Cat 6 or Cat 6a (you don't want to have to pull it out and run it again in the future).

​

For my personal situation, it was near impossible to run the cabling without ripping up ceilings and walls. I ended up using strictly MoCA 2.0 adapters (the 2.0 are faster than MoCA 1.0 adapters)...specifically Actiontec bonded adapters (Amazon Link).

​

I had to change out the splitters (get MoCA bandwidth ones...Amazon Link), and you want to add a MoCA point of entry filter where the cable comes into the house (Amazon Link). The RF cable in my house was high quality, low loss cable. If your house was built mid-1990s or later, it's most likely low loss cable. You can look at the information printed on the cable, and Google it to find its properties.

​

After I changed out the splitters, I get 1 Gbps transfer between all MoCA 2.0 endpoints (I currently have 6 in the house). The MoCA devices themselves do all the magic, and allow you to have up to 16 devices running on the same RF coax lines.

​

If you have satellite TV, you most likely cannot use MoCA as the MoCA devices use the common frequencies that satellite TV use over RF coax lines. However, cable TV uses the spectrum below 1 GHz, so you can run MoCA and cable TV at the same time. Just be cautious if you have the "whole house DVR" thingy, as the DVR devices communicate with each other on MoCA (usually MoCA 1.0...and your MoCA 2.0 devices will drop to 1.0 speeds if on the same RF coax line as 1.0 devices).

Does the Frontier modem have built-in MoCA capabilities by any chance? I had a similar situation in a three story townhome. Each room had coax, and instead of running Ethernet to each of the floors, I utilized a MoCA adapter to provide internet connectivity to the rooms over coax, since each room was already wired for coax. The cable modem provided by Comcast had built-in MoCA capabilities, so all I had to do was ensure all of the coax outlets were on the same splitter, and add a MoCA Ethernet adapter on the other floor to extend network connectivity to my office. Below is my current setup.

[Outside Incoming Coax]
|
[Coax splitter in the Attic]
| -> (Cable modem on 2nd floor) <-> den switch
| -> (MoCA adapter on 1st floor <-> office switch

However, if the Frontier cable modem doesn’t have built-in MoCA capabilities, then you’ll need a second MoCA adapter to terminate the MoCA connection at both ends:

[Outside Coax]
|
[Splitter]
| -> (Coax Outlet #1) -> MoCA Adapter -> Frontier Cable Modem -> switch/router
| -> (Coax Outlet #2) -> MoCA Adapter -> Ethernet Switch

I recommend this kit: “Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack (ECB6200K02)” https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/

You’ll also want to install a MoCA filter on the outside incoming coax line so the MoCA network demarc terminates there and doesn’t extend outside of the home: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/

Hope it works out! Let me know if that doesn’t make sense, and feel free to PM with questions.

Would these require a POE device?

Filter, MoCA "POE" Filter

Unfortunately this is not my area of expertise. My experience with MoCA has been as a point to point connection which strips out nearly all of the complexity.

From what I can tell they aren't rare for multidwelling units.

The solution is to get a filter and place it anywhere before your unit and anothers'.

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

Make sure you're getting one that won't interfere with your cable signal. This one should work fine and won't require splitters.
You'll want one of these for the line coming into the house.

the one "hardware" exception is you should make sure you have a MoCA filter at the edge of your house where your coax is... The MoCa configuration is by default set up without any encryption, you need a physical filter in line with your coax cable to "stop" it from going out beyond your own house back over where your cable comes in to your house. Otherwise your neighbors within 300' of that wire (or so) can buy a $12 device on Amazon to connect right to your network.

You can buy a MoCA filter on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1540161311&sr=8-3&linkCode=as2&tag=model30f-20 -- just install this then where the coaxial comes in to your house, or if you have a place in your house with a splitter that you know you don't want beyond that or what not, on one side of that.


Which, as it turns out can work as a convenience to you as well if you're just wanting to extend your household network's wifi too... you can buy one of these for $12 : https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Dual-Band-Wireless-Extender-Ethernet/dp/B00FKTMWDE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1540161554&linkCode=as2&tag=model30f-20& and connect it to the same coaxial cable your Layer3 is connected to; it will use the MoCa from your main layer3 to extend the network over that... and then it will broadcast its own wireless network from there (2.4 and 5ghz). I have set two of these up, one of them outside in a utility enclosure box.

If you have coax cables in both rooms, you could use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7O3X0/

​

I have a similar set up in that I have my router in the living room and my desktop in my office. I have coax in both rooms, but no cat5 connection. I used those MoCA adapters and they work wonderfully (including streaming games from my desktop back to my living room). You will also want to invest in a MoCA filter as well. I think this is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6/

I recently utilized Moca at my parents house where they had DirecTV throughout the house. You can usually look up your modem model. However if you have Spectrum they do not support Moca. You can however use these adapaters wherever you want to utilize connections (one as a pass-through to your modem with the router connected to the Ethernet line) and the other where you want other connection.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9JOMDb0X5DAX8

My coax lines were not connected on the back end so I had to trace the cables from where they terminated (attic of all places) using a Coax tracer tool:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ULX9C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BNOMDbX347AAX

The COAX line coming from the street into your modem will need one of these MOCA filters to prevent your connection from bleeding out into other Coax lines in your area:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BKOMDbWGSCMFN

You will also need one of these Moca splitters to connect your Modem and your other Coax line where you want the other Moca adapter to connect to:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113JAN8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oMOMDbYY9R53C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EQ4BQG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ones I have. I put them in myself. They were pretty easy to install. You go to the modem, and disconnect the coax going into the modem. Plug the coax from the wall into the moca adapter in. Then plug the moca adapter coax out cord into the modem in. Your router should be already hooked up then you just plug an ethernet cable from your router to the moca adapter.

Then on the other end, where you want the internet, you just plug the other moca adapter into the coax, and an ethernet cable from your moca adapter to the computer. Sounds complicated, but was really pretty easy to hook up. I did have some problems where they stopped working a couple of times. I think it was related to the fact that if you don't have a terminating filter the signal can go out of your house, I got one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DC8IEE6&pd_rd_r=KV9MW2G56NMKNDZY9FD9&pd_rd_w=Kicrs&pd_rd_wg=BnTIO&psc=1&refRID=KV9MW2G56NMKNDZY9FD9

And plugged it in in my outside cable box and they have worked trouble free for me since October 2015. I like very much not having to depend on wifi

Yes, you need a splitter. The main line entering your house will lead to a 2-way splitter. One leg of the splitter will feed your modem, the other leg would feed the cable outlet where you have the adapter.

You want to use a POE filter BEFORE the splitter. Again, make sure you get a splitter that is MoCA compliant; it should be labeled 5-1675 MHz.

I assume that you have a coax splitter wherever the cable reaches your house. That might be in a box outside or somewhere inside the house. From this splitter, coax cables run to the various outlets in your house.

It looks like there is only one coax port on the TG1682G: https://fccid.io/UIDTG1682-3/External-Photos/External-Photos-2853842

This means that the MoCA communication signal is sent back out through the same coax wire that the DOCSIS signal providing your internet access comes in. MoCA would then travel back to the splitter and out to all coax outlets attached to that splitter. Hopefully the splitter doesn't block MoCA signals. If so, you'd need to replace it with one that allows them through. Ideally you'd add a MoCA filter to the coax coming into the house before it gets to the first splitter in order to prevent your internal MoCA data from leaving your home.

You would then use a single MoCA 2.0 adapter like the Motorola MM1000 in your home-office with the incoming coax connected to its Network coax plug and your ethernet devices (via a switch or wireless access point) connected to its ethernet plug.

I believe this is the answer I was looking for thanks!

For the filter, something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

And I'd put that in between the outside world and my splitter?

Yeah, it should be a splitter. Do you know where it is? You'll want to make sure its frequency range is at least as wide as the first splitter. While you're at it, you'll also want to install a MoCA filter, like this in order to prevent the signal from leaking back into the street.

Amazing, also is this what your're referring to with a point of entry filter? Would I just need one and where would I want to put it in regards to my coax lines?

what i meant was...

MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DC8IEE6/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OK, I really tried to do the Dropbox thing but I failed miserably ... and I suck at Reddit formatting, so please excuse me but I appreciate your help and expertise.

POE Filter can be found here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DC8IEE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is on the line right as it gets into the house.

That goes into an Antronix 3 way splitter 5-1002MHz
Model #: CMC2003BH-A
Each output shows -5.58dB out

Output 1: Home Phone/Kitchen TV (Non Tivo Connected)
Antronix FRA1-1510 Forward/Return amplifier/Splitter to get my home phone to work, One of the two Coax cables goes to power the modem for the home phone, the other for the non-TiVo TV

Output 2: CommScope 2 way splitter Model SV-2G 5-1002MHz one goes to the guest bedroom where we previously had the other Mini and it worked fine (one we moved to basement) and the other goes to the Master Bedroom where a Mini that works fine currently is

Output 3: Same two way splitter as Output 2. One goes to the cable modem I provided details for above and the other goes to the Tuning Adapter Model Cisco STA 1520

Here is a problem ... in doing all of this I realized I can't trace back the coax to the basement one that is having issues, but hopefully with all of the information I have provided maybe some steps can be taken to alleviate that.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

okay, connected adapters directly with short coax cable and lights flashed up

not sure what you mean, can you clarify?

this is the filter

I took the filter out completely (I need to ask my parents where the the cable enters the house at), and tried getting a signal downstairs again and it wouldn't work, any ideas?

You are probably using too long cables for a passive splitter (the two you linked). How long are the cables? Even regular HDMI cables have issues if too long.

An active HDMI splitter (which has a power input to amplify the signal) would probably do what you need. This one has good reviews: https://smile.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B00F5R9TNM/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486654568&sr=1-8&keywords=hdmi%2Bsplitter&th=1


edit: though I would probably just do what SJC856 recommends (if you computer has multiple video outputs)

If you need to use a splitter though, this one will do 4k:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5R9TNM/ref=emc_b_5_i

I'm using a Slingbox 500 with my Spectrum cable box (HDMI only) and I can confirm that this HDMI strips HDCP, allowing you to stream via HDMI from your Slingbox.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5R9TNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xOLKDb9QMBTWK

If you're only steaming cable, I wouldn't worry about HDMI 2.0. We're not taking 10-bit HDR, 4k, or high-frame rate content, but rather super compressed cable at max 1080i60.

The HDMI can carry audio out. However, if your old receiver doesn't have an HDMI passthrough, you'd need a cheap HDMI splitter

It does have digital audio out, though....if your old receiver supports that. Otherwise, just pay $20 on the splitter

You need a splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/HDS-102-Powered-Certified-Splitter-Resolutions/dp/B00F5R9TNM/

I'd recommend you get an HDMI splitter like this one. Connect the input to your console, and use another two cables to connect the outputs to your display and to any capture device of your choosing. I wouldn't recommend using video capture software on your computer to see your gameplay, it adds a noticeable amount of lag most of the time.

As for HDMI capture that supports Linux, BlackMagic has official support for Linux, but I hear their actual customer support for their hardware products is quite poor, and I haven't tried them myself. I currently have a Hauppauge Colossus, which has no support for Linux (unless you're a company looking to pay these guys for bulk licensing) and is limited to 1080p30 at most. So, I recently ordered this, but I haven't got it yet. I'll let you know if it works well.

Don't have a ps3, but i went and enabled HDCP on ps4 and captured just fine. This is the one i bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F5R9TNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With the HD60 Pro I downloaded the Elgato software just so the drivers were for sure installed. When it came to using a PS4, I had to disable HDCP on the system for it to work perfectly. But because a PS3 has permanent HDCP, you have to use a splitter to strip away the HDCP. This is the splitter I have. So I'm using 3 HDMI cables: (1) PS3 to Splitter Input, (2) Splitter Output 1 to Elgato, and (3) Splitter Output 2 to Monitor. It is finicky, but there's no issues recording or streaming.

Thanks for subscribing btw! I'm recording Nier on my channel right now, which is using this exact setup.

I have the same setup and have not noticed any input lag or reduced image quality. I bought this splitter and has worked perfectly for me.

The only annoyance is that you have to manually tell the PS4 to use the full RGB range when playing on the monitor and limited when on the TV.

I use this one and it works great I can see picture on my tv and my monitor at the same time no lag at all
HDMI Splitter

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LM4IJ60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_f8FGDb4H67RFZ

This is what I use, works like a charm.

The Helo sounds a bit pricy for me for sure, lol.

The USB point worries me. Here's what Device Manager has to say since I struggled with physically discerning them on my laptop.

I won't be doing any facecam stuff so not concerned about that (nor would I try to stream by pointing a camera at the TV :P)

>All the other Capture devices can be found in between $10-$40 bucks on Amazon. (Retro Consoles)

Very good to know, any specific recommendations there?

> You get no lag with the Elgato card during pass-through viewing, but if you do experience some lag, just split your HDMI Output that leads to your Elgato, and send the split to your TV.

Yeah, I don't tend to notice lag it seems. Still I just wanted to try and be sure about that. Would I be looking for something like this?

Use a HDMI splitter https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Amplifier-Switcher-Repeater-Support/dp/B00LM4IJ60

Not sure if you are in the UK but I got this as I wanted a splitter to go to my capture card and have a direct input to the monitor to ensure the picture quality was good. In other words it is a one in two out splitter. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LM4IJ60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113JAN8K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_T3ktDbSNFQPBT

Should work just fine? for both utilizing the new 4k Signal that Comcast offers as well as the 1gig modem?

First:

Navigate to 192.168.100.1 (assuming this is your usual cable modem) while it's connected via the router. Send screenshot of the screen where the upstream/downstream, channel bonding, etc (blur out any IP data if there is any). If it's a motorola/arris modem, these are all on one page. What I'm curious about is upstream value.

Second, what kind of splitter? Is it rated 2-1000+ MHz like this one?

Third, set your DNS settings on your connection on your PC to 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (Google Public DNS) while connected to router and see if this clears up issues. I'm assuming you're hardwired into the router, correct? How old are these routers? Did you contact your ISP whenever you switched from router to computer? Sometimes since the modem doesn't actually obtain the DHCP lease, their MAC tables can get messed up. But usually that results in no lease.

You just need a RF splitter like this. A 2-way splitter will cut the signal strength to each dongle in half. You'll also need a couple of F male to SMA male pigtails to connect the spitter to your dongles. If your discone's feedpoint impedance is 50 ohms there will be a mismatch to your coax but the loss will be insignificant.

Not quite sure what your solution is...
I will write up a simple something on what I will be doing and you let me know....

I will have two dedicated lines into the basement...

Line 1 = OTA antenna which will go into an HD Homerun Connect device which will go into a MOCA 2.0 adapter out to an 8-way splitter.

Line2 = Comcast Cable from street into 8-way splitter

8-way splitter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M34OZ2S:

cable in = Comcast line with filter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4ODQTS

out #1 = Coax Cable from MOCA adapter for the OTA antenna - https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/

out #2 = Office with 2-way splitter (modem, router, moca adapter)

out #3 = living room with moca adapter, router (AP mode) and TV

out #4-8 = bedrooms #1-5

2-way splitter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0113JAN8K/

cable in = 8-way splitter out #2

out #1 = modem which cat5e to a router (Asus RT-AC68U) then to MOCA Adapter

out #2 = Moca Adapter

I hope this helps draw up my picture. I do have a NAS in the office which hosts plex for the HD homerun and stuffz.

I know this can work, but if there is a better way let me know (I rather have modem in office than in the basement before the 8-way splitter).

Sounds like it should. I have a similar setup. Mine goes
Fios ONT>coax>splitter>moca box> one side goes to my router/Other end goes out to another splitter that feeds the rest of the house. Then there are moca devices at each point I want signal.

From what I've read, you'll need to add a filter to prevent your signal from going out to other homes, unless you're on fios, then you don't need to.

For reference, here is the splitter and moca boxes I use and I havent had issues. The specific splitter I have says unvailable, but you should be able to get nother one with the same specs easily.

Splitter

Motorola Moca Adapter

I can just use simple splitter and I'll work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0113JAN8K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480342435&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=coax+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=51Yd857QwGL&ref=plSrch

Yes you can.. https://www.amazon.com/Movcle-Splitter-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=4+port+hdmi+monitor+adaptor&qid=1564949781&s=gateway&sr=8-14

I think you're looking for a HDMI splitter: https://www.amazon.com/Movcle-Splitter-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550395044&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter+4+in+1+out&psc=1&smid=A3VEZO6Z7D8I52

You could try something like this. There are probably better ones, that's just one of the first ones I saw.

I'd say this is a pretty ambitious first project, but what better way to learn than to fail until you succeed. I did this project for a friend on a 75" tv. Honestly to do this for your computer you wouldn't use a raspberry, you would use your computer as the "brain" instead of a pi. Here's the links i used to do the tv project, there's youtube guides for pc using an arduino, you can reverse engineer these links to get you somewhere.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCVfZb4UoO4

https://www.amazon.com/Aclorol-100V-240V-Switching-Converter-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B07CMM2BBR/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1531773371&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=DIANQI+power+supply+50W+5V+10A

https://www.amazon.com/Movcle-Splitter-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1531772622&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=HDMI+Splitter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Cingk-Converter-Adapter-Supports-Chromecast/dp/B01N0YDDI3/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772653&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=HDMI2AV+Converter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Remote-Famirosa-Switcher-Selector/dp/B075K3X64T/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772702&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=HDMI+Selector&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/August-VGB100-External-Composite-Transfer/dp/B008F0SARC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772765&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=USB+Grabber&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B01LSF4Q00/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772536&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=WS2812B+RGB+LED&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Uno-R3-Microcontroller-A000066/dp/B008GRTSV6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772580&sr=8-3&keywords=Arduino+Uno

here you go

If you have USB 2/3 ports, you can run a separate HDMI out. I run my main monitor on the HDMI output on my computer then have a USB to HDMI converter running to a 4-way splitter for the singer's monitor and other hookups such as venue tv's.

Here's the splitter I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0180PPTNO

Haven't had issue with multiple resolutions, but most venues don't have TV's that go over 1080.

yea.. damn converters for HDMI to DisplayPort are expensive.. going other way around of course is cheap heh.. thisi s cheapest one I could find

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco%C2%AE-HDMI-DisplayPort-Converter-Power/dp/B01BXMOREI?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

This might work for you.

It'll convert a HDMI to Displayport. It just needs to be plugged into the usb slot of the xbox to provide enough power.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-DisplayPort-Converter-Compliant-Dual-Mode/dp/B01BXMOREI

Will remove that. All my arguments were preset btw. Only one I did was -v

I am using this adapter which yes is an HDMI to DP
http://www.amazon.com/gofanco%C2%AE-HDMI-DisplayPort-Converter-Power/dp/B01BXMOREI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Nope, sorry. There are adapters but I'm not 100% sure if your monitor will work with it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BXMOREI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_bWkoDb175JNP8

No problem, hold on, though!

The thing you're eyeing will NOT do 4K on an X, as far as I can tell, and in case that's relevant to your scenario.

Apparently, the adapter will only do 4K @ 30 Hz, which the X won't work with, so you're stuck with 1080p.

Also, some users say that some monitors don't have built-in scalers, which can result in your Xbox outputting in 480p. Ouch!

Have you seen this one? It's a similar price to the one you linked and yes, this one has the same limitation with 4K only being displayed at 30 Hz but here, there's quite a few people confirming that it works for their Xboxes, take a look at the customer questions and reviews.

Also, if you're rich, you can select the version capable of 4K/60Hz for like 170 bucks, haha.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BXMOREI?psc=1
I think this would do the job for 1080p and 120hz?

I understand you have no interest in gaming and I'm not saying you should return it to buy something better for gaming or with a more powerful GPU. The CPU your PC came with (an Intel Core i7 7700) already had a GPU built into it. And the GPU built into that processor is a better GPU than the Nvidia GPU Dell decided to install (the GT 730). There was 0 need for Dell and Costco to put that GPU in the machine, it would have worked without it. I feel bad for people like you who end up in situations like this because Dell/Costco decide to add unneeded parts to computers. The same thing almost happened to my mom (also with a PC from Costco).

If you don't want to return the computer, then you have three choices:

1. Buy a HDMI or DVI to DisplayPort adapter. These are relatively expensive and can be janky if you get a cheaper one. Also, you are unlikely to get the 144 hz your monitor is capable of (but if you have no interest in gaming, this really isn't an issue).
   
2. Replace the GPU with something that has a DisplayPort out. This is really pretty simple. It would involve unscrewing 1-2 screws, pressing one tab, then pulling the GPU out, putting the new one in, then screwing the 1-2 screws back in.
   
3. Replace the monitor with something that has HDMI or DVI in.
   
   The easiest option would be option 1. If I were you and doing option 1, I'd probably get this specific adapter because it has decent reviews.
   
   That said, it is still frustrating to me that Dell and Costco do crap like this.

The only thing I could find was this:

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-HDMI-DisplayPort-Converter-Power/dp/B01BXMOREI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494519602&sr=1-4-fkmr1&keywords=display+port+to+dvi-d+120hz

And it only supports 1080p@120hz.

Try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-HDMI-DisplayPort-Converter-Power/dp/B01BXMOREI/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502353954&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+to+displayport

Please don't buy the crap from aliexpress or something, the quality there is very bad.

Male to male cable for what exactly? Cintiq will only hook up with miniDP, usb-c or regular display port. Unfortunately you can't run it through hdmi/dvi/vga. Your cintiq must be hooked up through one of those to display on the tablet. If you don't have a display port (mini or not) or a usb-c, you need to get a pci card with one of them or get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BXMOREI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this is what I got and works great)--- sorry in advanced if I'm missing information and am giving irrelevant info as a result

Hmm it's quite pricey, but I understand most of what you're saying.

Would this work?

What is the USB port for? I don't really understand.

I think that should work.

My laptop did not have a display port, so I had to use the adapter you linked to, but also this one:

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01BXMOREI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The adapter you linked attaches to the one that I linked, then you plug the USB and HDMI into the laptop.

So, in case if the adapter you linked doesn't work on its own, maybe try the one I posted.

Yeah I looked back and it didn't make sense the that the PS4 was plugged into the Output slot. Guess I bought the wrong thing.

Just to make sure this time, this is what I should be getting, right? PS4 into the input and Monitor + TV to the Outputs

https://www.amazon.com/SOWTECH-ST-HDSP0001-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483240458&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switch+splitter+2

I only have the ports that are on thr side of my laptop, will this do what i need?

I have this one split from fire tv to TV and projector.. works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KuRWAb1BCEWHX

First, questions.

• Why are your monitors all using different connections? Are they all different models? If they're the same, why not just have them all use Displayport?
  
• How far away will the TV be away from the tower? Would you need a cable longer than 6ft to connect them? Considering that the cable will need a good amount of slack for cable management, as well.
  
  Now, a suggestion.
  
  
• If your monitors all have Displayport... ports, just hook them all up to Displayport. If for some reason you can't, or just really don't want to, you'll need a way to connect your HDMI TV to a Displayport. You don't even have to get an adapter box, you can just use a wire with HDMI on one end, Displayport on the other.
  
  Anyway, some options.
  
  
• Software Switch - I'm assuming you use Windows 10. If you do, you can just switch your active screen without having to do anything more than using a Keyboard shortcut. Display Switch (Windows button + P) will allow you to quickly switch your display option, allowing you to quickly turn your TV's input on or off. However, I don't know if this will mess with any of your display settings, it might. If it does, you'd have to fiddle with the other two screens' settings every time you switch back to your desk. If you do this option, by the way, and you keep a keyboard on your rig, you can just use the shortcut to switch between displays.
  
  
• Hardware Switch - An adapter box that switches your output between two screens (like this, for example). You'd have to have to physically press the button each time you switch between your desk and TV (though they do make ones that have a remote), but this way you wouldn't have to worry about any software issues. You'd connect this to your main monitor and the TV, and simply press the button to switch between them. Your PC would re-adjust the resolution for you (it would detect that the screen its outputting to changes), but other than that it wouldn't have an affect on it, it would just think that your middle monitor is now the TV. You'd still only be projecting the game screen to one display at a time, so it wouldn't have any affect on the game's performance.
  
  
• Software Mirroring - Exactly as it sounds. One of the options in the Display Switch panel is Duplicate, which mirrors your main monitor's output to your TV. You could just leave this on, and just turn your TV on or off as needed. The only problem is that since your system would be outputting the game to two displays, it may have a negative affect on the system's performance. This is the option I don't recommend.
  
  
• Hardware Splitter - A box that takes one input and mirrors it to two outputs (example). It wouldn't be a switch, it would just constantly mirror the output to two displays. The difference is that your GPU would only be making one output, the box is just sending the signal to two displays. This way, it shouldn't have an affect on your PC's performance. Just turn the TV on and off as needed.
  
  
• Separate System - This is the extreme option, having a separate PC for your rig entirely. If the only games you play on your PC are racing sims, you could just use your current PC for the rig and have a new PC for your desk, its specs depending on what kind of work you do with it. While this is, again, the logical extreme solution... it's not necessarily unreasonable to have separate systems for work and play.
  
  
  
  ^(Notes)
  
  ^(- None of these options should introduce lag, but if you get a splitter or switch box, make sure they're noted with low-latency and check the reviews.)
  
  ^(- You could stream the game to your TV with something like the Steam Link... but your TV is in the same room as the PC-- hell from the sounds of it, it's within the same arm's reach as the TV. Streaming it is alright if the system and the TV were across the house, but its a needlessly complicated and clunky idea in this situation.)
  
  ^(- If you do use a hardware solution, keep in mind that the small consumer boxes can only use cables of a reasonable length. Generally speaking, you shouldn't use a cable longer than 9ft from the box to your TV, or the wire won't carry the signal to the display. Longer than that, you'll probably need a) ^(signal repeater)^(.)
  
  
  
  If you have any questions, let me know. I hope this helps you find your answer.
  
  EDIT: More info.

I am pretty sure an HDMI splitter with mirror (that last "mirror" part is crucial) would work for you. This one is $15 on Amazon. It is able to send the same video signal to two monitors.

SOWTECH 1X2 HDMI Splitter Version 1.4 Full HD 1080P Powered HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out Support 3D for Duplicated/Mirror Dual Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6V-3CbRHGHQ89

I've used the one below to remove HDCP problems with blu-ray players, my PS3. However, you will also likely need an HDMI audio extractor, unless you're already using one. Heck, it may even strip HDCP for you. So buy one of those first and try just it, or buy both and return one if you don't need it. The extractor I used in the past is discontinued, but looks identical to the one I link below.

Similar extractor: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETHHA-Extractor-Converter-Digital/dp/B00HIW7TZC

Splitter I used: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-SOWTECH-Digital-Support-Outputs/dp/B01CCMOMM0

Maybe an HDMI splitter would work?

Like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b-Syyb9GH028C

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AKDPBD8qnpzeX

This is what I use in my home theater. If you're running more than 20' from the source you may need an amplifier.

There are basically two video setups. Onboard, where the outputs are built into the motherboard and discrete,where you use a video card with outputs.

If your video card has more than one output, then plug the second monitor into the second output.

If your video card does not have two outputs, then you can try using one of the motherboard outputs. You may have to re-enable onboard video in the BIOS as they will usually disable themselves when you plug in a discrete card. This will usually work. However, some boards will not allow you to use both onboard and discrete video at the same time.

In those cases you have three options:

1. Replace your video card with one that has multiple outputs (or buy a USB video card which may or may not work for you)
   
   
2. Disable your video card and use only the onboard video, which probably sucks.
   
   
3. Buy a splitter. This may or may not allow max resolutions on each display. It depends on the card. (Link is not a recommendation. It is literally the first one that came up when I searched "monitor spliltter")

Here’s the link, it says that it doesn’t do HDCP bypass. But it does.

SOWTECH 1X2 HDMI Splitter Version 1.4 Full HD 1080P Powered HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out Support 3D for Duplicated/Mirror Dual Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lT883qwtNP5ec

For anything over 6 feet hdmi, I needed a repeater. This is the one I use, and what the Op recommends.

SHENFAN 4K2K HDMI Antenna Splitter Repeater Signal Amplifier Booster Adapter Extender UP TO 40 Meters Transmission Distance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M02Z4FU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_We2GAbG28VK5W

Currently unavailable from that link but it seems lots of people have successfully extended hdmi with this.

Edit: actually OP recommends:

COWEEN HDMI Repeater 4K UHD HDMI Female to Female HDMI Amplifier 40' HDMI Extender Up to 40 Meters Lossless Transmission for Oculus Rift and More

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_jr2GAbK1VMMCW

HDMI & USB 3.0 9FT Extension $19.99 @ BestBuy

or


HDMI 10FT Cable $12.99 @ Amazon

HDMI Repeater (for use with cable above) $8.99 @ Amazon

USB 3.0 10FT Extension $6.49 @ Amazon

I used this as it is what you'll see recommended the most and just a random hdmi cord I had laying around.

Oh ok, so like the motorola moca adapter. (https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR)

I could go from cable company coax -> modem -> router -> LAN ---ethernet--> the motorola device --coax---> MoCA hub (https://www.amazon.com/BAMF-8-Way-Splitter-Bi-Directional-5-2300MHz/dp/B01M34OZ2S)

from there I can add up to 16 motorola adapters around the house at the destinations?

> I could go from cable company coax -> modem -> router -> LAN -> the motorola device -> MoCA hub

Are you intending to keep the coax from the cable company and your MoCA network separate? That is fine but normally people want to use the same coax for both which is why the adapter has a passthrough.

> https://www.amazon.com/BAMF-8-Way-Splitter-Bi-Directional-5-2300MHz/dp/B01M34OZ2S

That is fine but you should only split as many times as you need to but not more. If you are not going to have 8 connections get a smaller splitter.

> from there I can add up to 16 motorola adapters around the house at the destinations?

16 total, the initial one counts so 15 more.

As others have said - I'd suggest buying a cheap coax crimping kit, taking your source and converting it to coax, hitting a splitter and have fun as you channel (pun intended) the spirit of Nam June Paik.


People will tell you your coax will start to degrade after splits, but I have done similar installations and never had a problem.

I have purchased a similar splitter from Amazon but it is 8-way and hopping it will not degrade the signal. I will terminate the unused ports.

I bought this splitter to use with my 4K OLED TV and my crappy 1080p monitor in my office, works flawlessly. The advantage of this splitter is it can simultaneously display HDR 4K image on my TV and 1080p on my monitor. Their support team was also great helping resolve an issue and called me for support.

gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJWF31?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I found this one here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJWF31/

It seems to be both a splitter and downscaler in one box. It has two outputs and 1 input for 55 bucks. Input the PS4 HDMI with a 4K/HDR signal and then 1 output for the HD60 Pro at 1080p/60fps and a 2nd output for 4K HDR on my TV. I think this is how it works.

It'll save me buying a 4K capture card too, which unfortunately the Elgato doesn't support HDR with it's 4K60Pro anyway. So I'd need to find one that does HDR support on top. And since I don't record in 4K it's even more wasted. If only the HD60 Pro could at least read 4K and downscale itself.

But hey, if this box can let me play on my TV in 4K HDR and let me capture the game with no issues, then I think in the long run it will pay off. :)

Yes correct two screens , one is 4k the other is 1080 , switching form one to the other, for single player games 4k is great but for anything online and competitive I rather have best performance 1080p with 60fps rather then 30 and the lowest input lag, just trying to find something that’s not having me to disconnect and connect cables back and fourth, I did come up on this now, they say it’s possible to have 1 source (end of HDMI cable coming from PS4 pro) then one out let from device is 4k the other will be in 1080.

Thing is I also like to free up the second screen so I can be browsing , watching sports between matches , and little brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Prophecy-Intelligent-60Hz-Splitter/dp/B079HJWF31/ref=pd_gwm_psimh_0?pf_rd_s=blackjack-experiment-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pd_rd_wg=aZIWz&pd_rd_r=5RTSPE14A1VK2D3B2F0Z&pd_rd_w=67nTK&pf_rd_r=RQVP9YNAWKJNE0TX5DCQ&pf_rd_p=db8e741f-3a25-4908-9938-1cabe21e7102&pd_rd_i=B079HJWF31

Hey thanks for the reply. I know it was a lot to take in but I wanted to be thorough so we didn't waste time/energy on starter things.

• Run an HDMI out of GPU in (1) into the Live Gamer 4K that's in (2)
  
  • Got it
    
• Run another HDMI cable out of the Live Gamer 4K passthrough in (2) to the gaming display for (1)
  
  • Success! This works and now I can both play in 1440p/144Hz HDR on (1) and capture that on (2)
    
• Run a DP cable from the GTX 2080 in (2) into your streaming monitor for (2)
  
  • I have a GTX 1080 Ti in (2) connected to a Dell 2560x1600 display which I have set to 1440p for the sake of uniformity between (1) and (2)
    
  • Plugging the monitor into (1) with its DP cable activates dual display as expected on (1)
    
    I would prefer not to have to run (2) just to play on (1). I'm considering ordering one more capable HDMI cable and getting an HDMI spiltter. Would this work as well? Any suggestions as far as what to look for outside of the normal compatibilities? I'm looking at something like this;
    
    gofanco Prophecy HDMI Splitter 4K 60Hz 1x2 2-Port – 4K @60Hz 4:4:4, HDR, 3D, HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2, EDID, 18Gbps, Auto Scaling, Firmware Upgradeable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
    
    or
    
    Blackbird 4K Pro 1x2 HDMI Splitter HDR 18Gbps 4K@60Hz YCbCr 4:4:4 with HDCP 2.2 Support
    
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15258&gclid=Cj0KCQjwivbsBRDsARIsADyISJ96hl0yPxHA49JXF6-iIyxf7vNAxUj8xysAQuXV26kRZJfOEmktbWAaAvIcEALw_wcB
    
    I'm leaning towards the last one since it's 18Gbps and doesnt auto scale down to 1080p like the first one does (you can still change that but I don't like that it wants to downscale by default).
    
    Thank you for the answers and suggestions and I look forward to hearing these next steps and suggestions!

Reviews say this one works for PS4 Pro.

I had the exact same issue as you, this worked perfectly for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only issue I had run into was when the update for freesync came out and I couldn't use it on my monitor anymore. As far as I know there's no splitter that will allow you to use freesync.

This is crazy, but I just ordered the two port version of this gofanco splitter last week on Amazon and can't find it. My order now links to the 4 port version. The two port was $10 less.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using it to pass audio, but it's supposed to scale 4K down to 1080p. It works for my uses.

Doesn't the PS4 Pro have the ability to stream built in?

I'm always leery of digital signal splitting as it almost always adds some image degradation and input lag, but you'll see in reviews that most people don't have those issues with the better splitters available.

You could try this one, as someone in the reviews mentions using it with a Xbox One and HD60 at 4k

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Prophecy-Intelligent-60HZ-Splitter/dp/B079HN327D/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521117644&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=4k%2Bhdmi%2Bsplitter%2B120hz&th=1

Unless you have the BenQ RL2460 Monitor, the HDMI splitter does the job. I use This One The Elgato it being powered on by your computer instead of it's on external power so the picture isn't the clearest. You will notice it most with the reds but it's all colors. I highly suggest the one i attached, i have my XB1X to the splitter and use a 4K monitor to play while the HD60S captures in crisp 1080p. There's an option for 2 instead of 4 but this works out for game day with multiple TVs around with a get together.

My PC only has one HDMI port but I want to connect to two monitors, would a splitter like this work? https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-Out-Aluminum-Supports/dp/B07DQBY5TX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1565649254&s=electronics&sr=1-5

I bought these and they work well:

Splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQBY5TX/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1

Switch:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-Out-Aluminum-Supports/dp/B07DQBY5TX/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=2-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkMTAgYW5kICQyNQ%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&keywords=hdmi+splitter&pd_rd_i=B07DQBY5TX&pd_rd_r=a3aac189-e4e5-4ef3-80e7-e9764e801c9b&pd_rd_w=Ln5FF&pd_rd_wg=SEgKT&pf_rd_p=02e79b16-eab7-4369-852f-d04a58a4d9b5&pf_rd_r=FBTW9R8RAFJ7H04HBJMB&psc=1&qid=1574646396

This one claims 1080p@60hz.

Could also use something like this - HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out - Techole 4K Aluminum Ver1.4 HDCP, Powered HDMI Splitter Supports 3D 4K@30HZ Full HD1080P for Xbox PS4 PS3 Fire Stick Roku Blu-Ray Player Apple TV HDTV - Cable Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQBY5TX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zxbXDbVW6Z10A

I have been using one for years to swap between my Xbox and switch for my TV

Aye thanks I was looking for simultaneous spilters without a switch and found this:

HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQBY5TX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XHYSDb6YQ96Z0

I just bought this, waiting for it to arrive...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQBY5TX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: next time, be more specific in your post title. Your question doesn't relate to the specific monitor model at all.

My nintendo switch is connected through a USB extension, no problems, the switch charges during play.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LWBYDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a grip on my NIntendo Switch, Very Comfortable and fits well on my stand

Grip:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WGT97X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stand:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZAYH58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ethernet Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYTSN18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Adapter, So I can switch between my PC Monitor or my 55 inch TV.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQBY5TX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Switch, Used to switch my keyboard between my PC and Nintendo Switch.

I can now easily chat during online multiplayer or switch back to PC.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

just search amazon man
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Movcle-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485285958&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter+1+in+3+out

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Yes but make sure you buy the right thing.

https://www.amazon.com/CNE86960-HDMI-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B0015YRMXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386226793&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+splitter+2+out

It will degrade quality though.

Buy this:

http://smile.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-VHD-1X2MN3D/dp/B004F9LVXC?sa-no-redirect=1

This will split your hdmi so you can send one feed to whatever and then send one feed to the capture card and won't have to use the pass through.

It would be amazing to have a software solution to this.

At the moment I have to use a ps tv to capture game footage. It needs a special hdmi splitter that can strip the hdcp from the ps tv (this is the one I use in case anyone wants to do it too http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ ) and I feed that into a capture device (mine is a hd pvr2 but any capture device will do).

This is a good guide until we get something for the vita itself: https://www.reddit.com/r/VitaTV/comments/35zpfk/how_to_capture_video_with_a_pstv/

1x2 1 in 2 out. Strips out hdcp and crestron can strip to an extent. OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter Ver 1.3 Certified for Full HD 1080P & 3D Support (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2zgNBbGHX8H3Q

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mzkNBbMGRSH0C

These passive splitters all mention a signal drop at each end, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/BAMF-2-Way-Splitter-Bi-Directional-5-2300MHz/dp/B0113JAN8K/

>Low signal loss of only 3.5db on each output port

Perhaps TV and internet signals are distinct within the incoming cable and each use a fixed amount of bandwidth.

I actually just looked it up and it appears that is indeed the case:

https://www.reddit.com/r/answers/comments/3icybz/does_cable_tv_use_bandwidth/?st=jdgqvxhj&sh=9474df9c