Best saw blades, parts & accessories according to redditors
We found 612 Reddit comments discussing the best saw blades, parts & accessories. We ranked the 311 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 612 Reddit comments discussing the best saw blades, parts & accessories. We ranked the 311 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Beyond using scrap wood or 1x2s screwed/clamped down as a guide, you can also buy something like this that's a bit more reusable. This Old House also has a nice method for making your own guide that has proper offsets for both sides of the circular saw base.
It is no no where near $800 to fix the saw once triggered. I got a few cartridges last year for like $70 each.
*edit to prove the troll below wrong
Saw stop cartridge purchasable today with free shipping for $79
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
If he uses what most large scale carvers use, it actually is remarkably similar to a chain saw...just a disc that fits an angle grinder with sharpenable teeth like those of a chain saw blade. Example: Lancelot
The false positives can be problem and the cartridges are somewhat expensive. I've seen a few guys trade them back for regular saws. When the patent expires maybe the prices will come down a bit, because it is a pretty nice tool.
Don't do this. Please do not do this.
You would get better results with some guides (like this or this) and a couple of sawhorses for the larger cuts. For smaller cuts I would use a miter box or a bench hook and a hand saw.
Designing and building a fence system that would stay parallel to the blade would take too long. If it is not perfectly parallel, or moves while cutting you are going to pinch the wood you are ripping. This is going to result in a board being rammed into your stomach, or a circular saw breaking free of its mount and flying around with a spinning blade. Either way, you are going to have a bad day.
Or pay $15 and have blades for years
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HV4VV92/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_FkGWDbAKMD5KK
You're confusing "blade cartridge" with "brake cartridge".
This is not a blade.
"Compatible with all standard 10 inch blades".
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
$63 for the brake cartridge plus whatever the blade costs, a good 10" blade could cost $100 so $200 was a decent guess.
To be fair though those table saws can cost $10,000 if you get them industrial sized and all tricked out.
A single blade, with or without contractor pricing. But you can't get a tablesaw blade worth buying at Home Depot.
Edit: Pretty much anything made by Forrest, but get the right blade for the job. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ
We buy them locally, but getting them online isn't too much more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2685-Circular-Saw-Guide/dp/B073PFYN4T/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550075452&sr=8-3&keywords=kreg+circular+saw+jig
Highly effective at cutting straight lines with a circular saw, also affirm the insulation backer idea, place the plywood on it and cut away.
No and yes. I would rank it just below this in terms of "products responsible for wrongful death suits"
It is of course, or at least I am led to believe by late night TV, not as dangerous as trans-vaginal mesh though.
I don't even like using a dremel with a cutoff wheel. That being said this thing looks just as bad. Woodcarving Disk
The brake is $65 and most of the time you'll want to replace the blade as well which is going to be anywhere from 50 to 150.
I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.
Problem solved.
https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Cut-Cutter-Replacement-09703/dp/B00HV4VV92/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=17RD46RP8BP0I&keywords=easy+cut+2000+replacement+blades&qid=1551161807&s=gateway&sprefix=easy+cut+&sr=8-1
Zero clearance insert
Dado zero clearance insert
That dado stack is decent. Not great, but OK. This one is a lot better and the best bargain dado stack
Irwin Marples 50 tooth blade. Lowes sells these if you don't want to order online. I have a few dozen table saw blades. This is by far the best blade short of a Woodworker II or Tenryu Gold Medal.
If you plan on working with 5/4+ hardwoods, get a 24 tooth diablo rip blade. It makes a big difference
Start with one GR Rripper
if you don't have a dial indicator, get one. You'll need it to adjust for runout
Decide on dust collection. You'll need to install the shroud if you use it, or leave it off if you don't. It's a huge pain in the ass to install after the fact, but can be done. A shop vac isn't recommended, but if you decide to give it a shot, you'll need a 4" to 2.5" reducer. Something like this will keep up pretty well if you just wanted to bite the bullet.
Decide how you are going to cross cut. I prefer a sled, some like a miter gauge. The included one sucks.
Osborne EB3 or the Incra 1000/HD
Every single time, before you hit the ON button count your fingers and remind yourself a razor sharp blade will be spinning at 3450 rpm in the area your hands are about to travel. Two more inserts for angled blade and dado use would be good.
Invest in a Forrest Woodworker II and a blade dampener. You will never be sorry and they have the best sharpening/rehab service you will find. It will last you a long time. http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372303400&sr=8-1&keywords=forrest+blade+10+inch
I've only done them for 2 or 3 pieces so far, but you can do a good shaker with cope and stick style. This video from saw stop does a decent job of summarizing things, but do additional googleing to get all the details.
https://youtu.be/d-fCL-ZAVWs
Also, get a ftg rip blade for cutting the groove, any bevel will make it impossible to get a good tight fit. Here is the one I use with good success (then you have a real rip blade too!) I'd totally recommend the thin kerf if you have a 1.5hp or less saw.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225UH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468094452&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Freud+thin+kerf+ftg+rip
I can only imagine the possible kick out when using one of these chain saw grinding wheels
I'll never fault someone for erring on the side of caution, and it only has to save you once for the 2k to be worth it, but all you really need is something like this - where the blade passes under the tool.
Byrd shelix cutterhead for DW735 planer on amazon right now for $207 - insane price!
https://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542995854&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=byrd+shelix+dw735&psc=1
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Did a quick Google hunt, seems you can get a 10" SawStop cartridge as cheap as $70 on Amazon, but the specialty ones seem to be slightly more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Cut-Cutter-Replacement-09703/dp/B00HV4VV92/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1PE0VULW2Q3DF&keywords=easycut+2000+replacement+blades&qid=1549706726&s=gateway&sprefix=Easycut+2000%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-1
Look for a micro-jig http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-SP-2-TK-Splitter-Steelpro/dp/B00B03PMY0.
Splitters keep the saw kerf from pinching on the blade causing safety issues like kickback, or keep the piece between the blade and fence past the saw cut from riding up the blade and thowing the piece back at you. Some kickbacks can cause your hand to be drawn right into the blade.
Riving knives are even better but not available on some older models.
They are pretty important for safety reasons. They serve two purposes, keeping the cut piece pushed against the fence and keeping the cutoff piece from pinching closed and binding on the blade.
The single best thing I ever did in my shop was build a proper outfeed table for my table saw. It doubles as a work space, a catch all and a decent finishing table if I throw something on top of it not to mess it up.
Its not fancy by any means but it works. Its MDF and 2x4's but it works flawlessly.
I technically have the room for sheet goods in my shop (its 10x21) but it would be a pain in the ass moving sheet goods in and out of a 36" door. Instead consider ripping them down with a circular saw with one of these. Its very very accurate and makes short work of long cuts. I put my sheet goods on a set of saw horses and can break it down into easier to manage pieces with ease. I was even able to completely redo my closet ripping down 3/4" MDF with that rip guide.
Don't take chances with your health brother. Its just not worth it.
The table looks amazing! Going off the one picture where you were using a straight edge as a guide for your circular saw, which looked like it would've done an excellent job, but here's the regular tool for future projects where that setup may not fit.
This thing has been great: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC
I feel so much safer using it than I did using crappier push-sticks. The videos really show how you can use safely, and it's quick and easy to adjust.
Others have mentioned making a splitter but you can also buy one. Microjig makes what's pretty much standard at this point: https://www.amazon.com/MICRO-JIG-SP-2-TK-SPLITTER-SteelPro/dp/B00B03PMY0
Having a good fence already, a zero clearance insert, and a splitter are pretty much the best things to do in terms of use/safety. The only other recommendation I'd give (looks like you've done this) is to keep the top cleaned and smooth.
sauce
I really like the oshlun dado set. I have had it for years and it still works great. Not sure how big of a table saw you have but an 8 inch dado stack will put a lot of strain on the motor. A six inch version will be plenty for most woodworkers.
I have 6" from Oshlun that are truly the best value. I also have 8" Forrest Dado King which are very nice, but debatable over whether they are worth the money.
If you are going to do a ton of Fine Wood Working dados then get the Forrest, but otherwise the Oshlun is where the money should go.
Oh wow!!...i was told multiple times that this saw can not use dado blades because the arbor is not long enough and will be dangerous.
From my research, this is the only dado type blade recommended for this saw.
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-20T-Joint-Cutter-SBOX8/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1524675332&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+box+joint+blade+set&dpID=41gLWd92QVL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Glad to see dado blades working out for you!
I had your exact problem with my Dewalt DWE7480 (just a bit newer version of your saw).
[This] (https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-Grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524245560&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+box+joint+cutter+set) is what you're looking for.
It's obviously not as ideal as a full dado stack, but gets the job done. I used it for cutting tenons on 8/4 stock and it leaves a nice clean/straight cut.
I purchased this one. It cuts perfectly smooth bottoms and clean sides. Cheaper than most, and the quality is better than some of the upper end names that I've checked out.
I'm using it on a Ridgid R4510, so it's a 10" similar to your Hitachi.
The first thing I did was build a finger/comb/box joint sled, and built a jewelry box for the wife.
A high quality blade will make a big difference. I use freud blades and love them. You could use a general purpose blade if you make both rip and cross cuts. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU83R010-10-Inch-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466877982&sr=8-6&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade
If you make a lot of rip cuts https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466878111&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade+glue+line+rip is amazing.
I use thin kerf as i had a crappy table saw in the past and its easier on the saw.
I haven’t used one of these, but they make a lot of angle grinder attachments. I imagine something like this would be good for roughing.
It's not $1000 every time it fires... New saw-stop cartriges are about $80, and a new blade (which becomes destroyed in the process). So relatively cheap, considering you still have your fingers to count your $$$.
Steve Ramsey likes the Gripper from Microjig: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC
GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XV54CbGH3S534
I just bought this and am very happy with it.
Oshlun SDS-0842 8-Inch 42 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YF25Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_X8n1wbG1NCXW4
I also have the polished Freud SD208 and have been very happy.
That's beginner level.
With the fence locked into place a short distance from the saw blade, and with the saw unplugged, take a measuring tape or ruler and measure the distance from one tooth at the front of the blade to the fence, then, rotate the blade so that tooth is now at the back of the blade and measure again. If the measurements are identical then your fence is square. That is the single most important aspect to getting use out of that table saw, aside from it actually running.
My fence was not consistently square so I made one that was. I also replaced the miter gauge with this. I also switched to a link belt. With the amount that I have to shorten the belt, every 3rd full belt that I buy should allow me to make a 4th belt with the leftovers. I have not replaced my pulleys with machined pulleys yet, but I'm not sure that I'll need to. I did also get a PALS kit as a precautionary measure. Leecraft makes some nice zero clearance inserts and Micro Jig makes a splitter insert kit that will help prevent your cuts from binding on the blade.
Aside from that, there are restoration video playlists on Youtube for the 113 series table saws in all their various sub-types.
They'll definitely work, just be very careful with that old saw. I would suggest you add in a splitter.
MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YOMOBbGMGV4PH
Cross-cutting is easy enough, and so are sheet goods.
For ripping you'll want a featherboard and a push-stick. You could get a commercial push-stick like the Grr-ripper, or you could make your own. I prefer the "shoe" style from that page.
If he is going to be using a table saw, one a GRR-ripper would be a good gift. I've been wanting one, but never pulled the trigger. This helps cut thin pieces on the table saw. Also generally safer than normal push sticks.
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
Another thing to go with many power tools is a magnetic feather block. This also helps keep things safe on power tools. It keep wood tight to a reference surface, helping accuracy and safety.
http://www.amazon.com/Mesa-Vista-Design-GRIP-TITE-Featherboard/dp/B0000223VF
I calculate the size by choosing either the 3/8" or 1/4" setup on my box joint cutter set and then adjust the depth of the fingers to the board thickness. If you're just using a normal table saw blade, the size of your joints could be based more on artistic preference than functionality. Similar to how dovetails are hand cut based on the desired appearance.
Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).
A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".
My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.
This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.
Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.
A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.
If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.
Tiny-T Pocket rule
6" precision t rule
A really nice miter gauge
Router setup bars
A nice marking knife
Marking gauge
Magports
Tapeboss
Grr-ripper
Dozuki & Ryoba
Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)
Shop apron
Quick sanding strips
Digital Angle Gauge
Digital Height Gauge
Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey
You do know that every time that is used, it destroys itself and has to be replaced right?
Imagine that on a scale like an escalator where anyone who happens to press a button causes thousands and thousands of damages.
edit: $100 replacement , i'm thinking a scale of hundreds of thousands for a similar setup on a large scale
edit2: you could probably buy a whole new escalator for hundreds of thousands, idk how much the cost would be
$69, plus a new blade.
You ever try anything like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-035-Cookie-Grippers/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347067719&sr=1-2&keywords=woodworking
Was wondering if they work.
LeatheL has spot on advice, but don't forget if you ever plan on using a sled set-up you may find you don't have enough depth from a 6" set.
For what it's worth, I have been using a Freud 8" set since 2002, the teeth are all in great shape, I clean them when I have been cutting exotic woods like Jatoba or blackwood, or when they start to get a gummy build up. My 2 hp contractor saw has a hard time taking full passes set at 3/4" width, My 5hp cabinet saw has no problem taking full depth cuts at max width, but it leaves burn marks, so I always take a couple of passes.
This is the set I have had for 12+ years, if I upgrade it will be to the Freud SuperStack 8"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223O9/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004RK0P&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E6H0FQEW8YNTCZQ1BJ4
Copying the link from the other comment, woodcarvers use monsters like this all the time:
https://www.amazon.com/King-Arthur-Tools-Lancelot-Woodcarving/dp/B00004RHL6
Par for the course.
You can use this set for the 7480 and 745. It's been sitting in my wish list waiting for a project where I need it.
Freud 8" x 20T Box Joint Cutter Set (SBOX8)
do it. It saved us a lot of money and weight. This tool saved us so much time: https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS
Oh here's a video of the plywood ripping in action -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nXsiJ3pFQXt10Fs65_MdHMJMFly2gAld/view?usp=sharing
These are good too: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC
They can hold the peice and the offcut so that helps prevent kickback.
Take your time, cut slowly and keep your eye on the blade as if you push the price through to fast it won't like it.
Practice makes perfect. Good luck
Edit: spelling
With regards to making it more safe, you could get something like the Grripper. It's a pushblock that makes cutting smaller and thinner pieces a lot safer on the table saw. I just got one for myself, and I love it.
You can also use it with a router table, a band saw and a huge number of other ways too. It's a nice little tool.
Box of 81 blades on Amazon. Split the cost with 3 people, you each get 27 blades for $4.50 each
I have the same saw and I use the Freud SD208
Were you expecting something like this? That goes on an angle grinder by the way
Bummer. Seems like a pretty good price though, especially for canuckistan.
This got me looking at Freud industrial blades in the US with a flat cut and led me to this.. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B0000225V8
Thin kerf version here: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA
You’ve got a fence, right? If so, buy a decent blade, watch a few safety vids and go for it.
You’ll figure out what needs to be fixed as you go along.
Try to spend more time working wood than getting your tools perfect.
Here’s a good blade to start: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_CcqyCbGEFW31T
Thanks, I’ve been looking into this. Anybody have experience with this (MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bmKyCbBQ5E1XN) product, seems easy to implement
What kind of table saw are you using, it's important for kerf sizing
If you're using a saw that can handle full kerf blades:
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B00004T7A4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478446733&sr=8-2&keywords=freud%2Bcombo%2Bblade&th=1
Otherwise, thin a quality thin kerf blade:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B0000225V8
Amazon has the Dewalt 735x for $544.59. The X is the one with the in/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. It is a very good thickness planer. There is also a third party helical head for it.
Amazon, Timbecon or Carbatec. The Diablo blades are OK for the price that they're sold in the US, but not the price they're sold in AU.
I'm using a Freud Fusion blade - its not cheap, but top notch quality. Edit: https://www.amazon.com.au/Premier-Fusion-General-Purpose-P410/dp/B000JNTG76/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=freud+fusion&qid=1572942949&sr=8-2
oof, its gone up in price a bit because of the weak AUD since I bought it - there may be places that have it cheaper locally. However, thats the premium brand, and Diablo is Freud's budget brand. Bunnings sells some Diablo blades up at that price!
What are people's thoughts on this dado set and this thin kerf blade? I just got both for early Christmas gifts, but it's not too late to return them to Amazon for other options if these won't be great.
Good looking chair! My wife wants me to build he an Adirondack; did you find particular plans? Or make some yourself?
Also, for a quick fix until you get a router table, I've heard good things about the Bench Dog Bench Cookies. I just got a set myself but haven't used them for holding a small piece while I rout yet. Perhaps someone who has these can weigh in on how well they work.
Yeah, that would have made sense, but at this point I really just wanted a turnkey solution - I was getting pretty burnt out on the project. I like the planer a lot. The blades that come with it leave a lot to be desired, but you can get a number of upgrades for that: high speed steel, or the crazy helix style with replaceable blades if you have disposable income.
The one and only upgrade I would absolutely do every time is a digital readout like this one I got from Rockler, which makes the machine 10000000% more precise.
I'd recommend a combination blade. Works great for someone getting started. Changing blades is a hassle https://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FS75W1HYKCW1CS1P4VTB
You can buy replacement brake cartridges (the only part that gets destroyed and needs replacing) on Amazon for 70 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ So the initial investment is having to buy the Sawstop at whatever price the guy is charging for his custom saw but after that it's only 70 bucks per finger not lost. Not a bad deal. Also he only makes the saws himself because he has to because no hardware company wanted to take on the risk of his idea potentially failing one time on one of their saws and them having to deal with the lawsuit. He never wanted to manufacture saws but when no one else would take it on decided it needed to be available to people and took it upon himself to do so. I saw a Youtube video about the SawStop once and then went down a bender of videos regarding the product because I thought it was so cool.
The absolute fastest way to grind out part of the log is to buy an attachment for an angle grinder. Stuff like this and this are pretty much geared towards grinding crap out.
There's the reason why the Forrest WWII 40t blade sells like hotcakes.
Why build a chainsaw when you can buy one of these ?
I got a 8" set from Oshlun for Christmas. I can't wait to use them! http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SDS-0842-8-Inch-Tooth-Stack/dp/B0012YF25Q
A scrap board and 2 clamps will make you a fence. Just make sure you clamp it square.
Or you can do as I did and spend $40 on one of these which should give you a nice straight cut on larger stock. (Can't vouch for the use personally - just got mine for Christmas and haven't had a chance to play with it yet. Theory is sound, though.)
I've liked the rip cuts I get from my Freud thin kerf rip blades.
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-2&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade
The thin blade eats less wood and for underpowered saws like mine works well.
I prefer the FTG blade because it's a little more aggressive and doesn't leave the tiny triangle of wood in the corners if you use it for a non through cut. Not an issue for re saws though.
A general purpose blade (even the fancy Forrest) won't solve your problem--it still has too many teeth for ripping thick hardwoods efficiently on a <3HP saw. I lost count of how many times I stopped the blade when ripping moderate-hardness woods like Walnut and Soft Maple on my last table saw, which was comparable to yours.
The glue-line-rip is a one trick pony. You're looking for a general use rip blade.
I would recommend the 24T Freud Industrial Thin Kerf Rip (not diablo).
BTW, the "3HP" on your saw is marketing nonsense--you can't get more than about 1.75HP out of a 120V/15A circuit.
nice, now save up for a few more and get the helical cutters, totally worth it https://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526271684&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0
Proper blade for the task at hand is honestly more important than the brand of blade itself, so long as you aren't going like $10 cheap, but with modern metallurgy and tooling even the cheap stuff can get the job done, just might not be built to super high tollerances and might not stay sharp as long, also not really worth having them sharpened as they are cheap.
What your goal with the tool in question. I find that a lot of people tend to use the tablesaw to get it close to final dimensions, then run an end over the jointer and then through the planer to get proper thickness. If that's the case then you don't need to spend $120 on a forrest glue line rip blade and something like the $50 freud or even a cheaper diablo will be fine.
Personally I use a Forrest 20T ripping blade when I'm batching out a bunch of repetitive rips and want it all glue ready off the saw without the added step of running it over the jointer again, but I've also got a very nice cabinet saw that I know gives me glue ready rips with that blade and it's properly tuned. If I was using a jobsite saw I don't think I'd ever trust it to give glue ready rps off the saw.
On ripping one thing I will say is if you've got an underpowered saw then look at thin kerf blades for ripping hardwood.
That said I've usually got this 40T Freud general purpose combo blade in the saw as it rips and crosscuts fine for the one off things or during a single project.
I've got an 80T chopmaster forrest blade in my miter saw that's great, honestly I'd put the money in this if you're wondering which one to spend money on first. I've found most people cross cut stock to final length on the miter and I've never had an issue with tearout on this.
I had a 48T crosscut Forrest blade that I used to leave in, but got the Freud one for free and honestly I don't notice a difference when cross cutting. Also have a 100T blade meant for veneer or other like materials, but hardly ever use it.
In terms of Circular saws it kind of goes by the same logic. If you ever see a carpenter that does work on site they will probably have a bunch of different blades from very low tooth to high tooth. My circular saw just has a 32T general purpose blade in it and I've never bothered to change it, don't do finish cuts with it and honestly it's mostly only used if I'm doing stuff on site or need to make large initial cuts on timber framing which I'll clean up later. It's the festool branded blades, not sure who manufacturers those for them, but they are pretty good quality.
For my track saw I've got a 16T blade (was what festool offered, I know there are non festool brands that make blades that fit the festool specific arbor though) that's almost exclusively used for ripping slabs, and a 52T blade for when I'm crosscutting slabs or breaking down sheetgoods, although on the sheetgood thing I usually always make final cuts on the tablesaw and just use the tracksaw to make it more manageable to get on the tablesaw.
Finally for Daddo stacks I bit the bullet and bought one of the Forrest Dado kings (they run like $375) when I got my cabinet saw. Have never tried the cheaper brands as the saw I had before my cabinet saw couldn't accept daddo stacks unless I were to modify it.
Even better, get this chainsaw tool attachment for your angle grinder. It goes through material like butter, it's magical. Then finish with a sand wheel or belt sander.
I'm currently using the Freud glue line rip blade https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001V5J4QY?pc_redir=T1 and I just ripped a bunch of maple, walnut, purple heart, cherr and Pau Amarello with minimal burning and a smooth surface. I think that's probably the best blade for that price range.
If you don't want to change your blade for crosscuts or rip cuts get a combo. I use the Diablo D1050X the price is right and let's be honest, your gonna sand anyway I don't care how good the cut is, it ain't gonna be no 220 grit finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2Z/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w
So I just bought a new table saw recently. I'm kind of following a similar track of 'upgrading' it with goodies.
Here's what I have to go along with my TS:
Next thing I'm going to make is a bunch of ZCIs, I figure this will come in handy for my next set of projects that will require the dado stack. I don't yet have an outfeed table (limited space), but my latest issue of WOOD has a cool mobile folding one that doubles as a scrap storage cart.
If you don't have a crosscut sled yet, I would make that first. They are made from inexpensive materials, and can be as simple or complex as you like them to be. My first crosscut sled for my old POS tablesaw was made from scrap ply and a chunk of scrap 2x4; it was ugly and kind of crummy, but it did the job. My second version is much nicer, with contoured and shaped fences and much more accurate using the 5 cut method. More sophisticated versions have built in stop blocks, tape measures, or T-tracks for adjustable inserts. I use my sled on just about every single project, as both my miter and circular saw are kind of inaccurate, and not great at making super accurate crosscuts. Plus, if you don't have a dado stack, you can use a crosscut sled to make rabbets and dados across the grain by making repeated cuts. It will take longer, but gets the job done.
Good luck!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_89913-46069-PCB220TS_0__?productId=3163783
with a http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073PFYN4T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521496509&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=kreg+tools&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41iOsl1wvZL&amp;ref=plSrch or this
For nearly the same price as the big box Diablo's, the Freud branded Industrial line is supposed to be longer lasting. I just ordered the 50 tooth from Amazon Link
Here is the HD Diablo equivalent Link
It's really going to come down to you using it, if it's making bad cuts then it might be worth exchanging for another to see if the issue persists or if maybe it's supposed to be that way. I just checked amazon canada and they have an Olshun for $77 in the warehouse, might be worth a shot--often times when I order there it's just the packaging that got beat up but the items are pretty much new
Can't decide on which Dado set. Have decided to go with 6" for my 1 1/4 HP saw. But can't decide between Ohslun and the Freud. Just tell me what to do.
Ya, the table saw guard is a combination splitter, blade guard as well as pawls on either side to prevent the workpiece from reversing direction. When I was first starting to use it I made some dumb mistakes and shot some small boards right past me because I got mine used and it didn't come with part of the guard assembly. Fortunately I had watched enough safety videos and things to know to stay out of the way of the blade so it did not hit me, but still was not a pleasant experience. I have since bought the missing piece and use the splitter and guard whenever I can.
As far as a multipurpose blade, I went with a combination blade so I don't have to change blades when doing rips vs. cross cuts. This is the one I got:
http://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407533481&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=diablo+10%22+blade
I have found it to cut plenty clean for my needs.
Can anyone tell me what the difference between the Microjig Gripper 200 and the Microjig Gripper 100 is? I can't tell the difference from the amazon pages other than that the 200 is 20 bucks more. I assume there are some new features in the 200, but are they worth an extra 20 bucks?
For reference, the 200 - http://www.amazon.com/Gripper-TM-200-Advanced-System/dp/B000H50BAC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410386265&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=microjig+gripper
the 100 - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410386265&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=microjig+gripper
Lancelot is what you use. I do quite a bit of log work and there's nothing better to shape than than this tool.
And yes, it's extremely dangerous...and fun :)
Just about any blade, when new and sharp, will do what you want.
Burn marks are not always about the blade itself. Burn marks can be made by a misaligned fence, a misaligned blade, a dirty/clogged blade, or improper feed rate. A good splitter with the correct kerf will also help with reducing burn marks.
If you are looking for a blade recommendation, after upgrading to a Forrest Wood Worker II, I will never use a "budget" blade again (unless I plan to cut something that could wreck the blade). Some guys say they are over priced. I actually have two of them - one on the saw, and one to send in for sharpening when it dulls. I get them sharpened from the Forrest factory, which isn't cheap, but they come back just like new.
It kind of depends on the saw you have. If it is a portable saw buy the .091 kerf here:https: //smile.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=pd_sim_469_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YMMS6DY84H49CKS4C9GW
If it is a bigger saw that can handle the load buy this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000225V8/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B00020JOAA
Both are great blades and the full kerf gives a much better cut on a full size saw but the smaller saws can't handle removing that much material. I use the thin kerf in my "jobsite" saw. I use Freud's 1/8" kerf line of blades in my cabinet saw. You can have them sharpened 3-4 times for about $12 each time.
My dad ended up putting a hinge with a board about 1x2 over the power controls. Drill a big enough hole to put your finger through to power it on, then a dowel or screw just over the off button. The board ran to the ground so all he has to do is slightly kick the end of the board to shut off the saw. Really simple and cheap way to hit the stop button quickly.
If you haven’t seen them already, there’s a product called sawstop.
SawStop TSBC-10R2 Table Saw Brake Cartridge for 10-Inch Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_61biAb9WAWE8Y
I think this is amazing. If you watch videos and look at their Instagram page you’ll see how they work and people that have had them work. You’re left with basically a scratch. It completes a current when you touch the blade then jams and aluminum block to the blade stopping it and then sucks the blade down. I don’t know which saws it fits though and the only other draw back is you need a new blade after and it may trigger on wet wood.
Not a Freud but this is my combo blade that almost never comes out of the saw:
https://www.sliversmill.com/product_665_10x40_Tooth_Thin_Kerf_WOODWORKER_II_6_for_NEAR_FLAT_BOTTOM_.html
If I'm ripping hardwood longer than 30 inches and thicker than 4/4, then I switch to:
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Blade-Arbor-LM75R010/dp/B001V5J4QY
Which is a Freud and works very well.
This is awesome; especially if you can figure out how to take things down in 24" wide sections.
http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS
I see a lot of people saying another drill, but I'd rather have a saw and a crappy drill than two drills. If he works with a lot of flat boards, I'd say a circular saw and something like this. If he works more with dimensional lumber, a miter saw would be better.
Yeah, be really careful, I tried setting it on top of some bench cookies once when I was new, and I broke my router and ruined the wood, it was a big hunk too, always play safe!
If you only paid $30 bucks for the saw and the motor is good sink some money into a good blade, possible thin kerf. That dewalt blade that is in there is a piece of shit.
This should do quite nicely.
And whats wrong with clamping a piece of wood down? Or yo could use this and your existing saw and save yourself $400. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473784486&amp;sr=1-14&amp;keywords=kreg+jig
It was the weekly sticky thread, I couldn’t find anything in the wiki either. Recommended one, which I like was an Oshlun. Cheap one was a Mibro.
> Woodworker II 40T
Wow, that blade is more expensive than my saw. What's the second best blade? :)
Based on the Woodworker II specs, it looks like this from Freud might produce similar results at a lower cost.
I am assuming I could bring bunch of angle grinder wheels alongside. Like for instance this thing as well: https://www.amazon.com/King-Arthurs-Tools-45822-Lancelot/dp/B0000224SJ
It would not only let you cut down trees, but you could also make stuff like this with it: https://i.imgur.com/5CSCi8E.jpg
Also assuming there is a plain wreck somewhere you could use the other wheels to salvage and make other tools with it.
Angle grinders are incredibly versatile.
Interesting, I see a lot of videos on this topic including this one and this other one. Would this be a good blade? I also see this thin kerf model, but I have a 3HP table saw and I'm not worried about 1/32" of extra waste, and I assume the non-thin-kerf is more durable.
I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.
If you do attempt this on your machine, you will want a thin-kerf rip blade, 20-30 teeth. The thin kerf will reduce the load on your machine.
Heres a decent Freud one for under 40 bucks from Amazon.
I've watched my dad do this quite a few times. He takes a drill and drills depth holes every few inches to get the profile of the seat defined. Then after that he uses an angle grinder attachment like this to rough out the shape down to where the drill holes end. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_L7m5wb6709E6B
From there he usually finishes up with a random orbital sander.
The size of the kerf really starts to add up when making these.
If you plan to keep making more of these, investing in a good thin kerf blade is a great idea. It can save you over an inch in both the length and width.
Blade I use: http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457022120&amp;sr=1-17&amp;keywords=thin+kerf+saw+blades+10-inch
Check this thing out. I haven't tried mine yet but the videos and reviews seem to suggest it works well.
Kreg KMA2685 Circular Saw Guide https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073PFYN4T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_h3vY29zonHEnm
Here ya go GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TcSXBbPYTVK0F
As far as the dado is concerned, I grabbed one of these with great success. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426348245&sr=8-1&keywords=Freud+SBOX8
Nope $70. https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541987400&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=saw+stop+cartridge
Dado cartridges are a bit more expensive
I used a circular saw with a straightedge jig at first but then I purchased the Kreg Rip-Cut. I didn't use it much before I got my $150 craftsman 113 belt drive-cast iron wings-table saw, and I think I might have used it (the kreg) once since then. If you make that straight edge guide, make sure the fence part is wide enough to place clamps on, and clear the saw motor while remaining clamped.
If your cutting wood more narrow than the jig, I screwed a stop block/riser, the same thickness as the piece being cut, from underneath and clamped the whole thing to a table, sandwiching the piece to be cut in between.
Ha.. That is exactly why I got them. There are 2 that I have.
This is the MicroJig one - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GB-1-GRR-Rip-Block/dp/B00DNX3N7S
And the other is the GRRRipper - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
If you can afford it, get the 2 pack of the GRR Ripper. I like that one best.
Wife bought me a Byrd head for mine after one magically appeared on her wishlist ($340 on Amazon). Holy shmokies I didn't think that something that worked so well already could be THAT MUCH better. I haven't had an upgrade on anything ever make that much difference. Add that to your list. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CS2QAE/?coliid=I2JHDA29KV3K9L
I've got a DeWalt DWE7480, and my only complaint about it is the short arbor that can't use dado blades (with a handful of exceptions apparently, although I don't have a set yet). The fence and fence lock are fantastic. The dust collection leaves something to be desired too, but that's not a surprise or in any way unusual for a small portable saw.
For only double the price! http://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/
Oh yeah I'm sure he does. That probably makes all the difference in this kind of stuff. I've done endgrain with my dad's Ryobi planer with 2 flat blades and it works ok. Lots of tear out on the back end of course. I've got my eye on this with this sexy beast. mmmmmfff...
I nominate /u/Glasspirate for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1BE5CQNQKYRGQ&amp;coliid=ILWPSHDMT376T) because he is cool and is a very positive person and /u/kratz5ive for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L9OPJIO/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=16ATUS4UFAYN7&amp;coliid=I294CI84TRYQCX) because he is super cool and nice.
I am looking at this Freud set. How is it? Link
Never mind my suggestion, it'll probably ruin your veneer.
Depending on the finish needed, you might want to switch to using a blade with less teeth - something made more for ripping.
A smaller blade, with just as many teeth won't be any cheaper to resharpen.
I just got the following blade (Freud LU87R010 10-Inch 24-Tooth - http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381425527&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=freud+lu87), so I can't commend on its longevity, but it seems more suited to your needs.
Should be at least half as expensive to resharpen.
I have a Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade in my amazon wish list (for my table saw). Everyone seems to love them...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z
But how do you cut the pieces for your fence straight without a fence? This is the same problem I ran into building my first workbench!
But seriously, in addition to your good recommendation, OP might also want to consider a circular saw guide like this Kreg one that will allow them to cut perfectly parallel to an existing edge (i.e. ripping), or a simple clamp-on saw guide for crosscuts or anything else <48".
For a general purpose blade I would recommend one. They are cheap but still decent quality and good for 90% of your cuts. I have this one and have no complaints as a hobbyist
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_HFBSzbCZA2EXX
Craftsman Table Saw Model # $150
Shop Fox model #G8826 fence system $275
Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade $80
Wilton 15” drill press $100
Parks 12” planer $600 This requires a little road trip
Atlas 6” jointer $150 Model #
Delta 10” bandsaw, Powerkraft radial arm saw and Rockwell contractor table saw $200
I would resell one of the tablesaws Just pick the nicest one and sell the other.
Oneway Multi Gauge $97 This is for setting the jointer perfectly and the dial indicator can be removed to make planer setting jig as described by Bob Vaughan (see youtube) or fine woodworking 107.
Angle block set for machine setup $30
Bessey Bar Clamps $14x3 plus maybe $10x3 for bars Say $75 total
Stanley sweetheart chisel set of 4 $80
This leaves $243 left for misc things like drill bits, planer/jointer knives or sharpening F style clamps a cordless drill, random orbit sander, sand paper ect.
Close to $60 to $80 now, from a quick amazon search.
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B001G9MGZQ&amp;pd_rd_r=F4FZFQDDMY8B5D2MCR4K&amp;pd_rd_w=yuck6&amp;pd_rd_wg=Zb56s&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=F4FZFQDDMY8B5D2MCR4K
I have the same saw and I bought this for it -- https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Ripping-Blade-LU87R010/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506016279&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=thin+kerf+saw+blades+10-inch
I like the thin kerf as you don't have to worry about it bogging down if you cut anything thick, and I do mostly rip cuts. I've ripped and cross cut plywood with a thin maple veneer and haven't had any issues with tear out either.
This is what I have and I've always gotten good results.
*the dewalt has the same number of teef. durrrrr
I use a Kreg Rip-Cut Guide. The nice thing about it is if you have to make a bunch of cuts of the same width, you just have to measure for the first one, clamp it down and you can quickly do all the rest of your cuts.
This may fit your table saw. It fits a dewalt dw745 https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Joint-Cutter-Joints-SBOX8/dp/B000ASGV1E
I had some issues with my 4512 also bogging down. I bought a Freud 24 tooth thin rip blade and it works great. I haven't had any problems since. The thinner the kerf the easier it is for the saw to cut.
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH
I was looking at this one but it would seem that the one you linked to has finer teeth and can be used to create much wider dados. The blades are made to go into a table saw (you may need a new insert to account for the width of the blades) and you run your piece over the blades to remove material of the desired width.
edit: i accidentally a word
http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
I recommend this blade. It makes fantastic cuts, even on plywood, but I typically make two passes on plywood one on either side.
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-P410-Premier-10-Inch-PermaShield/dp/B000JNTG76
it is literally just a $US69 single component sensor that needs to be replaced - plus the cost of replacing the blade if the blade is damaged. (The blades aren't always damaged and usually don't need to be replaced)
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
For the cost of a blade just to save an extra ~0.025 inches or whatever or wood you can just buy a LOT more board feet of lumber instead. Or resaw on a bandsaw.
I think the blade that dewalt comes with is technically close to thin kerf (3/32 ~= 0.095 I think I have the same blade that came with my Dewalt..24 tooth 0.095 kerf).
A normal kerf is 1/8 or 0.125, to go even thinner you are talking like 1/32 of an inch less per cut I don't think you'll find a 1/16 blade for a TS and if you do it will cost a lot.
A 56.00 Freud thin kerf blade is also basically the same as what's in your saw https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-Ripping-Perma-Shield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526935425&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=freud+thin+kerf
So just save your money on a new blade and buy more lumber
well let's look at the amazon order I just made.
camera - $200
tablet - $180
shirt - $20
shirt - $20
heart thing for wife - $70
loppers - $30
bt headphones - $50
foodsaver - $100
jeggings (wife) - $20
bra (wife) - $30
plan weights - $10
socks - $10
That leaves me with another $260 to spend...
I'm going to delete the wife stuff and the socks...
and go $10 over by buying a PS4 - $400
I can buy games for it later
I've got an Oshlun stacked dado set with spacers. I like the sled you posted and mine is similar but I think I need to make a changes to both my key and maybe pull a shim out of my stack.
Here's my sled
I bought this for such a cutting problem. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K5HIFS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Now you need one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008CS2QAE/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_2_10?colid=281352E1OK511&amp;coliid=I1SWHCA3UXVO82
I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.
So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?
Here is a link to it,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E
I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.
So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?
Here is a link to it,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E
Any contractor saw would be excellent. You should look for saws with the motor hanging out the back, they're better than the direct drives. Everyone here loves the delta -I cant remember the number- or the Rigid, but I've got a mid 90s craftsman with new freud blades and it cuts very smoothly. I tuned it up following youtube's guides and then every time i adjust the fence have to square it up for 2 minutes cause I havent had time to build a biesemeyer fence yet. I got these two saw blades 24 tooth FTB and 60 tooth ATB
Build yourself a crosscut sled for 10$ worth of wood and I used it for rabbets and Miter-ing. This table saw is a pretty decent deal. Bet he'd take 300 for it
Dont be afraid of used things, youtube will tell you how to make it pretty decent.
I use the diablo blade you linked to; it's great. Slightly cheaper on amazon.
Before those, I used these blades, and for $20, they're hard to beat.
Yes, combo blades are a fine alternative to high or low tpi blades. The only time I've ever used a 24tooth ripping blade is when I need the flat top grind for flat bottomed grooves for splines.
yes, I use it a lot and it works fine. It's a dado that will do 1/4" and 3/8", but 3/4" is too risky. The comments specify people using it for the 745: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ASGV1E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
No worries. Don't forget to grab you a good combo blade. I know it may seem high, but the Forrest WWII is where it's at. I have two I use in rotation when one is off being sharpened.
The only blade you need: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ/
Yup. You blow a 70 dollar cartridge plus wreck your blade:
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ
One vote for GRR-Rippers.