Best screwdrivers & nut drivers according to redditors
We found 1,838 Reddit comments discussing the best screwdrivers & nut drivers. We ranked the 652 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,838 Reddit comments discussing the best screwdrivers & nut drivers. We ranked the 652 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If you use one of the new Raspberry Pi model B+'s it would be cheaper, since it has four USB ports already. They didn't have them available when I bought the parts for this. Here is a list of parts I used.
Raspberry Pi Model B $35
x2 Panel Mount USB Female to Male $10
Panel mount HDMI Cable $6
Security bit screwdriver $10
x2 SNES USB controllers $20
WiPi wireless adapter $15 not needed unless you want network access
Mini SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch $4
6V 5mm LED $4 Use whatever color you want. Plugged into GPIO pins 2 and 6 to indicate power. Should use a 1ohm resistor too but it will work without it.
Total: $104ish? Not including all the tools and misc stuff.
The rest of it is mostly spare wire and connectors I had lying around. You will need some wire strippers, a multimeter, a drill, a dremmel... it will help, some lexan to mount the parts to(you can get this at home depot), a 5v power brick with at least 1.5A output, some normal motherboard standoffs and screws, a micro usb connector, and some extra wire. There are probably other things I forgot, but that's most of it.
Triw-wings aren't that uncommon. Even Airbus uses them. The screwdriver costs less than $2. If you're serious about taking shit apart just get a bit set that has every bit ever for like $20. Things are a lot easier when you have the right tools.
http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0
This is step-by-step guide I put together after I saw /u/oldSAP's post. It's pretty easy to do and looks cool when you're done.
Here's the [link] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=cm_sw_su_dp) to the tri-wing screwdriver I used and here's a [video] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEpISFBoGDg) of a disassembly if you want to reference it (it's in German).
I could probably make a video tutorial if there is a lot of interest. Have fun!
Edit: Thank you to whoever gave me gold!
This is a great low tech solution, just keep in mind the head will break if you use it too much, and this completely bypasses the cons of making it in the first place.
Actually buying a trihead is always the best solution (I have 4 of them), especially since they sell for almost nothing on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Tri-wing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-Gamecube-Gameboy/dp/B000S6AG9G/
That's one I bought for a buck and a half, but it took almost a month to arrive, haha. They ship it all the way from China. If you spend another $1.50 (gasp!) you can get it with Prime and in 2 days shipping though.
http://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/
tl;dr I highly encourage people not to use the melted plastic method.
This type of setup has allowed us to get through most every issue we have encountered while on the road. Including doing head gaskets in a hotel parking lot in Red Lodge on a extremely hot setup Harley after it lunched them due to some bad gas on the way.
a security one too (this means there is a hole in the center of it). Can't use just a normal one. This one is pretty cheap
> Instead of buying a single 00, id recommend the whole iFixit screwdriver kit. $30.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/
135 piece TEKTON set with more than double the bits and almost the same price.
I bought this, and now I fear no screw.
Keep them clean, if you have any problems take them back to your doctor immediately, keep a Jewelers Precision Screwdriver Set where you know where its at in your house AND in your car for emergency repairs, keep a tiny little bottle of cleaning spray in your car, near where you keep your glasses at night, and with you at all times for cleaning.
Study ohm's law and battery safety. If used improperly, mech mods can become a pipebomb.
That being said, here's a list of stuff you should get.
You crafted a screwdriver by melting a plastic pen? You can just buy a triwing for like $3...
EDIT: I have this one and it works beautifully.
It's possible to use a full yoke and throttle setup in VR as well. So you may want to look into this, it really is a completely surreal experience and very enjoyable.
The only downside that you may have is that as far as I'm aware, the Vive (or Oculus) can't render any setups that you may use.. yet. So you're pretty much flying "blind" in terms of the controls.
> Thinking of using TVs, would this be plausible?
Yes but not recommended. The drawbacks are the size, often not very thin bezels, weight & the overall panel quality & resolution is not high enough for when you're sitting that close to your flight sim.
TVs are mostly designed to be around ~10 feet away from you at least, which means that the pixels can be pretty large. A Full HD (1080p) TV at 50" doesn't look that bad when you're far enough away from it. The pixels are pretty huge tho, compared to a normal PC monitor that generally is around 21-24" for 1080p.
TVs also generally don't have other display ports than HDMI, which means you have to buy adapters. Not a big issue, but not that great.
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Now a few key points!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ B&H
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H170-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $87.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill NT Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $32.98 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.97 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB GAMING X Video Card | $279.99 @ B&H
Case | DIYPC Silence-BK ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $82.62 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $85.70 @ My Choice Software
Screwdriver| Stanley Magnetic Screwdriver kit| $6.44 @ Amazon
Flash Stick| Kingston 16GB USB 3.0| $5.50 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $936.15
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |
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Learn about technology in only a couple minutes!
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Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.
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Guides
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Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.
This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.
Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
Again not too complicated. But be aware, every motherboard is different. If unsure, check the manual!
You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.
Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Stanley has a similar design, it's not too bad, but the tool OP used is not really a screw driver, 99% of the time.
You might need this
The link with pouch and bits
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_EpvCDbVSWZBE9
Allen wrench / hex driver set. This one is overkill, but you'll probably not ever need another bit unless you lose them.
The Klein 11-in-1 Screwdriver is an amazing companion. The torx bit is perfect for the screws in HP desktops and the phillips bits have good bite.
Otherwise, you pretty much have that I would carry myself. I would add what /u/bitbucket87 mentioned for sure.
I was going to post this, though the one I got also ratchets: link . I want to get rid of all my other screwdrivers now.
Can't go wrong with Wera. I got this one on sale a few months ago and have been very pleased with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yZHwyb1ZNJY1C
Preventative maintenance is a really good idea. I never had any issues with mine, but then read some horror stories about dust build-up and YLODs on this subreddit and decided to get in front of it, especially since I have three dogs running around (lots of pet hair and dust).
I bought the special screwdriver you need off Amazon for like $4, watched some YouTube tutorials, and opened her up. WOW. I couldn't believe the amount of dust and hair that had been collected over the years. And I found that after I cleaned it out and put it back together, it actually ran quieter than it had been running... I hadn't noticed but it had gotten a bit louder over the years. Now I clean it every 6 months like clockwork - I have even started taking my controllers apart and cleaning them out at the same time.
As long as you're careful and following the numerous instructional videos or write-ups, there's really no detriment to keeping your system clean. My PS3 has had regular use for about 8 years now, and I credit its relatively long life to keeping it clean.
Link to special screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521578661&sr=8-3&keywords=ps3+screwdriver
Link to tutorial I always bring up when cleaning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsuSnYXQLoI
Hey there! I started circuit bending a year or so ago and I was asking a lot of the same questions as you.
Google around for circuit bending tutorials and you are bound to find some.
Here's what worked for me:
-These are usually found in thrift stores, like Goodwill.
-Don't buy new toys from a department store, they usually have electronic components that are more modern and harder to mess with.
-Don't spend a lot of money on a thing unless you are certain you know exactly how you are going to mess with it. I'm poor, so saving money was a huge aspect for me.
-Look for stuff that was made somewhere between 1980 - 2005ish. test it out in the store first to make sure it makes noises, the more the better. (You can sometimes hear if a toy is older, its sounds sometimes sound a bit more 'low-quality' or something... At least to me. One indicator is this: If the batteries are running low, a good toy to circuit bend will make some odd sounds.)
-solder
-a soldering iron
-Alligator leads(clips)
-Several screwdrivers of varying sizes.
-Several smaller screwdrivers
-wire
-resistors (look online for more details)
-These are the basics, but there may be more you need. Look online more.
-Use an area with good light.
-Google for tutorials for your specific item. You might have gotten lucky and gotten a commonly circuit-bent item.
-Google for tutorials for specific effects. You might want to make your item make certain sounds. Google will help you find people who have done it before you, if it has been done.
-Google for tutorials for any questions you have. People have probably asked it before. If you get stuck, phrase your question as many ways as possible and Google the variations. You will find answers, even if they are not the specific ones you were looking for. All information you digest will help you better learn this game of circuit bending.
Yeah man... I dunno. Just use Google and if you're really into it, keep reading more about it. Stop by every thrift store you see or if you're loaded, buy whatever shit you wanna bend on Ebay. Buy the stuff you need online, at local electronic stores, or if you absolutely have to, radio shack.
Here's a good site to start. Just read.
I can tell you that replacing the battery and both sticks in my Vita Slim took less than 20 minutes. You can find good quality analog sticks for only a few dollars each. I replaced mine for the same reason as your issue: one of the sticks was constantly drifting (it was my right one, not my left one.)
I got these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06Y2BXMWP/
I like them way, way more than the stock ones. The little textured rings on them make using the sticks significantly more comfortable. They feel a little tighter than the stock ones, too (in a good way.)
I've been super happy with them, and have put in dozens of hours since installing.
I used iFixit's guides (because of course I did.)
https://www.ifixit.com/Device/PS_Vita_Slim
Make sure you get a replacement battery while you're at it, too. You have to remove the battery to replace the sticks, so it's stupid to put the old one back in.
Also, I can't stress enough how important it is to have the right tools when you do this. A small spudger and proper tweezers, if nothing else, is essential. The ribbon cables are tiny and easily damaged, so having the right tool will make all the difference. Same goes for prying the outer shell open.
I have this kit, which has everything you need to open up and work on pretty much any small piece of consumer electronics you can think of. It's expensive, but totally worth the money.
https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Professional-Electronics/dp/B0718ZM6R1/
If my comment wasnt clear enough, something like this will help a lot.
Stanley 66-039 6-Piece Jewelers Precision Screwdriver Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X29G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Knb.BbBS35GR0
Try this one from Snap-On.
Or, you can check out this one. It's by the folks who make the Snap-On model.
This one is pretty good, too.
Make sure you buy quality bits, too. A great driver with crappy bits nets a crappy time repairing anything.
Old school mechanic's trick, I was shown how to do this in the late 70's before you could buy magnetic screwdrivers.
Here's a video showing a number of ways to magnetize your tools.
Or you could buy this $7 magnetizer on Amazon that makes it quick and simple.
Edit: spelling.
I have this Klein Tools screwdriver that hasn't had issues for several years.
https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32500-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1511207279&sr=1-2&keywords=klein+screwdriver
Here are some suggestions of good brands but substitute with lesser brand as you see fitted:
power tool, cordless is preferred. Some brands to consider, makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Bosch:
This is the permanent solution
I used to get random disk ejections twice a day on average. I tried tightening the screw and keeping the eject button away from surfaces but none of those worked.
Then I tried this. I haven't had a disk ejection in over a month since I did it. It prevented me from having to buy a new ps4 or a new disk drive from sony for ~$150 I think it was. It's a permanent solution. It's a little scary because it seems like you'll break something doing this but it 100% works.
You'll need a torx 8 security driver to open the main cover on the ps4. As well as a box cutting knife.
While you're in there you might as well use one of these to clean out your heat sink/fan after taking out the battery. I recommend you check this out to clean out on how to clean out your heat sink.
There. Two birds with one stone. You fixed your ejection button and you cleaned out your ps4 so now it's quieter and cooler.
Sound like it might be the thermostat connection. DIY fix.
You can buy a Torx t8 "security" screwdriver for about $3 off amazon.
This Hozan set is only $17. It's not that much money to have the correct tools for the job.
I do like your idea about swapping them, though.
If you don’t care about name brands, same stuff for $23
Jewler's screw drivers?
I use these. I got them at a local hardware store for $6. I like them because I can grip against the wire when I wrap and can pinch the coil against the screwdriver.
This is everything I Use.
I bought these hoping they would do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421534510&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41PADNxaDfL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
After a recent (semi-) failure of my normal EDC, I decided to upgrade my plier-ing options. Found this little number on AmazonKnipex Miniature Pliers with some great reviews and went for it.
It is quite a bit smaller than I thought it would be, but it seems very sturdy. At its widest it can grip a normal plastic bottle lid, which is quite the range to be honest for such a small tool.
It fits perfectly in my Maxpedition Micro case.
I also threw in a Stanley Pen Screwdriver to the basket, cause why not.
You my friend are my spirit brother when it comes to tools. 27yrs in trade and I've come to similar conclusions that you have.
For the lineman pliers, needlenose, and diagonal pliers I still use Klein journeyman or put the tenite handles on them.
Wera screwdrivers are excellent (Wiha and Felo too) and I like their multi screwdriver.
I have a fluke 87 , as well as a fluke T5, and an ideal clamp meter.
The fatmax tape measures have the best hold out. Every time I try another tape measure (currently using a Milwaukee) I end up wishing for another fatmax.
I use the greenlee no dog level and their torpedo level.
I use the 20oz black and red HD hammer (not sure of the brand name)
I do have a Lennox hacksaw frame but I always have a blade with tape for tight areas.
Even comes with a holster: https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505610858&sr=8-1&keywords=wera+screwdriver
Williams are known to be the same screwdrivers as Snap On and they make this one for $35
http://www.amazon.com/Williams-WRS-1-Magnetic-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462464493&sr=8-1&keywords=williams+ratcheting+screwdriver
You will give this to your children.
I have two black and two white. I took one black and one white, opened them up and switched the buttons around. Now I have one white with white buttons, one black with black buttons, one white with black buttons, and one black with white buttons. It's fairly easy to do, but you will need to order a special tri-wing screwdriver to open them up.
At the very least get a set of channel locks and a 11 in 1, you can tackle a lot of handyman jobs around the house with those two tools.
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Strength-Klein-Tools/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Klein+11+in+1&qid=1568254385&s=gateway&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-VISE-GRIP-GrooveLock-2078709/dp/B000FK1R0W/ref=sxin_4_osp99-ebfabea8_cov?ascsubtag=ebfabea8-942a-40f4-a928-b0bcf10c1d47&creativeASIN=B000FK1R0W&crid=52N01XQTME7Q&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.ebfabea8-942a-40f4-a928-b0bcf10c1d47&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=channel+locks+plier+set&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B000FK1R0W&pd_rd_r=6a0d0353-d9d4-4a0b-91ae-ed1ec49454dd&pd_rd_w=tT9Vl&pd_rd_wg=skAr1&pf_rd_p=53eff971-6e12-4016-9864-b6dfd929b2b3&pf_rd_r=5QEVBGFZ82ZEBZJ4V0QZ&qid=1568254408&s=gateway&sprefix=Channel+Locks%2Caps%2C501&tag=gearpublish-20
Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Industrial Strength Bits, Cushion Grip Handle Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9XBbS1RP5HN
At half the price, they are most definitely worth it!
Set wear hot hands are the best insulated work gloves I've ever used. You can hold something 400 degrees for a good 10-15 seconds before you start to feel the heat. It's a real leather too, which lasts longer.
If you're going to the UFT you might as well go for the full ratcheting version rather than ape ding that money twice. Personally I don't care for the UFT I use a Gator Grip socket on a short handled rachet with a swiveling head. Then I also carry a Mega Combo Wrench from The Light Source on my keyring.
Most screw drivers you find won't have a tether hole, I assume because you use them in a circular motion. For an all purpose carry look for a XX in 1, that has multiple bits all in one screwdriver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_JsPOCbM5B9DK8 something like this.
Is also recommend looking at multi tools, I use a Gerber Center Drive because it has a bit driver to use real screw bits and I like it a lot.
Another good gift idea are flashlights. I'm always on the lookout for the next great flashlight.
Yes but you have to actually open it up with screwdrivers. You need a T8 security screwdriver like this one Leegoal T8 Tamper Proof Screwdriver Security Torx Driver for XBOX 360 Wired and Wireless Controller Or PS3 Slim Disassembly CR-V Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9LYjybS95AE3F
...how? You'll need a torx T8 screwdriver I believe to open it up and pop it back on. Shouldn't take took long
http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
This is well known in many forums and circles for older Jap bikes. There are many JIS driver sets are available on amazon, along with other impact driver JIS sets. While Philips bits are not reccomended on JIS screws, a Philips impact driver usually has no problem removing these screws.
Exactly right but I think it’s too late for this screw. The left-handed drill bit idea is the best choice IMO.
Neiko 01925A Screw Extractor and Left Hand Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece | Alloy Extractors | Cobalt HSS Drill Bits | https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_48c-BbVJE5B8K
Hozan JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (NEW 3rd. Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_09c-BbD50WFW8
They're cheap
I like a lot of Tekton tools, particularly their "Everybit" set. Great value, and it has a lot of security style bits you would need for disassembling electronics.
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425168318&sr=8-1&keywords=tekton+every+bit
Other than the everybit set from Tekton, here is a list of tools I would recommend for general use...
I could continue this list forever so I'll just stop here. I have specific brand recommendations for almost all the tools on my list, but I wanted to keep it generic so that you could do your own unbiased research.
In addition, if you really just want to get your hands dirty, you can accomplish a lot with a good quality multi tool. I recommend the Leatherman Wave. The leatherman will set you back $60-$70 but I think they're more than worth the investment. If you buy a multitool, you could probably almost cut my list in half.
I REALLY wish they didn't even mention pliers. It's the wrong tool for the job. They might as well have told people to use a sawzall and just be really careful..
A full set of tools that covers every possible fastner is $30. There is no excuse to not have the right tool for working on a $700 piece of fragile hardware.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ODV0PI
They're expensive, but they WORK.
I'll second Wera. I have a similar set in a nice little roll,
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Micro-Set-12-5073675001/dp/B009ODV0PI/ref=pd_sim_263_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009ODV0PI&pd_rd_r=6YHP7JC4ST8CQX0TRK4R&pd_rd_w=3ytyn&pd_rd_wg=3Vvlr&psc=1&refRID=6YHP7JC4ST8CQX0TRK4R
and I have used them extensively with no damage to the heads. Highly recommended.
You'll want some JIS screwdrivers. There's lot of "phillips" screws on those bikes, but if you try and use your trusty old phillips driver on them, you'll strip them out in a heartbeat.
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
I carry a nanch precision screwdriver set in my backpack at all times. Other people around me always go to me first whenever they need a screwdriver or some tools to borrow. Its a good feeling
https://smile.amazon.com/Nanch-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone-Electronics/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NK1WCEVGKTZW&keywords=nanch+small+precision+screwdriver+set&qid=1566115135&s=gateway&sprefix=nanch%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-3
Edit: added URL
Nanch Small Precision Screwdriver Set with 22 Magnetic Screwdriver Bits,Repair Tool Kit for Laptop,Smartphone,iPhone,Jewelry and other Small Electronics. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RTsIDbWN8V2ZF shortly after finishing I went on Amazon and bought this set. Way better than those red screwdrivers!
Here's the set. It looks nice, might be time for an upgrade myself!
If anyone's looking for a nice screwdriver sets that includes a tri-wing, I highly recommend this product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O
The tech saw the realtree camo and said, eh... not today Bubba... not today.
Honestly though, go to Amazon, look for HP model # replacement screen.
Buy a 19.99 dollar laptop repair tool kit. https://smile.amazon.com/XOOL-Precision-Magnetic-Professional-Electronics/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1CMJEN7VSCGBV&keywords=laptop+repair+tool+kit&qid=1572397935&sprefix=laptop+rep%2Caps%2C268&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQ1BETU9PUFNEMEdMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDAyMzI0MzRDMUozTFdLT1U4UyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzg5MTQ3MTJIRzcyUDVFS0NJViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Do it yourself.
Total cost is gonna be around 60 to 100 bucks, with screen and tools.
Actually, not that this matters but he is using THIS kit. I have used them at work and they are very good for the price point, but are much flimsier than the iFixit driver and tend to fall apart after about 6 months of regular use.
After watching the rest of the video it seems like it is a bit, although not in a haha way but more in a "we gave an ingnorant person tools and no instructions" way.
This is a really easy repair - most of the time, you will only need to a few screws from the bezel. I have replaced a lot of laptop screens; it generally takes about 15 minutes when you become proficient or about an hour if it is your first time.
As others have stated, the repair should not be too difficult if you do it yourself. Depending on the make and model of your laptop, there are likely half a dozen videos on Youtube or iFixIt.
When I need a screen, I purchase from this website. I have already selected Dell from the list of available brands. On the bottom of your laptop, thre should be a model name and model number. Once you obtain this information, you just select the model name from the list and then choose your model number. From there, you should only have two options, which will be based on your preference: matte or glossy screen finish. I prefer matte finishes as they are less likely to hold onto fingerprints and "stain smear". Side note - somtimes LCDs can have a connector on the left or right. In this case, you will want to dissect your laptop first to determine which screen you need.
You may be able to get a screen cheaper on eBay, but I like this website and have been ordering from them for years. They always have the screen delivered before the ETA and they pack them really well. I have never received a bad screen from them. Good customer service, too. They are legit.
You can check the site to see if they have a replacement video for your laptop - I think it should be listed on the pages that shows you the laptop screen for your computer in the lower portion of the screen (past the section where they offer you tools / accessories for your repair. See if it is something you are comfortable doing on your own before you get started. I would recommend getting your tools / accessories from Amazon. They have a really nice set here.
If you decide to do it yourself, I would just advise paying special attention to the following areas:
I think you should be fine doing this yourself. If you get stuck, you can PM me.
Greetings all!
My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.
Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.
Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/
These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!
Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore
Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.
Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/
Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.
Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html
One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.
Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton
I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.
Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26
I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.
Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.
Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw
Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).
Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors
To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.
Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e
Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.
Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For cutting your kanthal off that spool!
Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano
You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.
Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts
You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.
Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.
Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.
Here is the desktop version of your link
A good set of small screwdrivers, some sort of wire cutters, cotton, and a good pair of tweezers (preferably with ceramic tips)
I got these ones and they are great. They have from 1 - 3mm drill bits and then two Phillips ones for screwing your posts down.
Nice rubberised grips that help you keep tight hold. I'm ashamed to say I saw them on a rip video.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV
Dunno how it happens, but you could try a tool demagnetizer: https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE
Wiha 40010 Magnetizer or Demagnetizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00018AONE/
have 2x, fantastically easy, not too strong and demagnetizes even the most stubborn irons almost completely.
I use a boxer set and love it.
Strong magnetics, lots of heads, nicely organized, and I've never had an issue with it getting it into tight spots.
They don't?
Get an extractor kit, something like this or this.
$5.99$1.68$2.99
I've taken apart my 3DS to repair broken parts a couple of times now, and if there's anything I've learned it's that the L and R buttons are very simple to remove/replace. Whilst I'm pretty sure that taking apart the 3DS yourself voids the warranty, doing it by hand can save you a lot of money since the Nintendo repair can cost rather silly amounts of cash.
If you feel confident that you can remember what goes where and put the 3DS back together again afterwards (Which is very simple) then the easiest way to do it is to buy a small Tri-Headed screwdriver to unscrew the screws that Nintendo uses. They're very cheap and can be found on amazon here:
http://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405183226&sr=1-1&keywords=tri-wing+screwdriver
The next step is to open the back of your 3DS, making sure not to lose the screws. Since the shoulder buttons are merely slotted onto the board, they should come off easily. They consist of the button and a small metal spring. You can take a look at the broken button this way to see if it is truly broken or just jamming.
If it's jamming: Problem solved! Putting it back in place how it should be will solve it (In order to see how it "Should" be positioned, just look at the other button).
If it's broken: You can easily find a replacement button from parts dealers on e-bay or other websites. You may only be able to find replacement shoulder buttons that come with the trigger also, but usually it's still a darn sight cheaper than paying Nintendo to do it for you.
Small messenger bag. Really all I need is my laptop, a few pens, my trusty USB SSD drive with everything on it, and a screwdriver. The times I need more tools, I have a toolbag I can take, but that's rare.
This bad boy is my most used tool
That's sounds great for a two-legger (forgive me if I assume too much).
I'm pretty serious about my socket set though. I carry [this](Craftsman 58 PC Universal MAX AXESS Mechanics Tool Set (Inch/Metric) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4QI7XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WKytybJPF57EE) strapped to the back of my power chair.
And I carry these as well. Along with a Leatherman and one of [these](Stanley 66-344 4-in-1 Pocket Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3PytybZ26WCBS)
Edit; unfortunately I don't reddit hard enough to know how to fix those links. Sorry.
Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH
That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.
Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A
This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around
Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW
This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life
Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C
You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff
Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV
A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws
Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742
This will help for when you go home
Not sure about that one in particular but my friend has one of these and swears by it:
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427291911&sr=8-1&keywords=klein+screwdriver
It's a pretty neat design and is quick to switch the drivers. It's also a Klein so it should be high quality.
I don't do much production work these days, as I work in an office repairing lighting equipment, so that's definitely colored my opinions, but here they are.
I used to be a fan of multitools, but these days I prefer to actually have real tools - with a multitool you get a decent pair of pliers and a lot of sub-par tools.
I like the stage junk focus tools, though at this point I've managed to lose two and haven't replaced the second one. On the occasion I am hanging or focusing, I use one of these. I bought it my first summer stock season years ago and it's held up pretty well.
My favorite interchangeable screwdriver is from Wera. All of their tools are superlatively engineered and constructed, and you can't go wrong.
If you're in a theatre production context and might need to solder, I recommend Hakko tools. I've had my station (an older, non-blue model) for something like a decade. I'm still using the tips that came with it and they're as shiny and clean as the day I got it, and it still operates perfectly.
For pliers and cutters, Lindstrom is the top of the line as far as I'm concerned. I don't have many of these because they are definitely $$$ but they can't be beat.
This driver and a lot of other Wera tools are still on sale by way!
I got you
Amazon baby
I'm about a year into home ownership and have been all about the improvement projects since moving in. Here's what I've found essential --
Obviously you can go on and on, but I've found these things out of a lot more that I've purchased most useful.
There's actually two; this one has a similar handle to yours (same size), but the shaft doesn't come out and it doesn't lock bits in place. I like this one; it does the job.
But my favorite is this one and the 4" shaft that came with yours (I have the regular green and black version of yours). I love that it keeps bits locked in place and is still magnetic, and if I don't need to use the longer shaft, the built in holder makes it kind of a stubby driver. The handle is a bit smaller since there's no bit storage, but f3eels more solid than the versions with bit storage in the handle.
Wera is worth every penny.
How big are the screws? I'm at work so can't look at my controller. Maybe something like this would work?
Flitz Metal Polish for the bore; Break Free CLP for the inside of the gun; and FrogLube paste as an exterior protectant.
On my Glocks I usually use one of THESE. (I throw the slotted tip and the jag away, and use only the brush with cotton patches (occasionally) wrapped around it.)
NOTHING CLEANS A PISTOL BARREL, ABOVE 22 CALIBER, FASTER OR BETTER - NOTHING!
I, also, keep a carbon steel, 'Squirrel Daddy' Miniature Glock Tool in the handle along with a thin-bladed, narrow profile screwdriver.
I carry; so I clean my Glock BEFORE I leave the range and won't holster a dirty pistol that hasn't also been function checked. I've been working on guns for 50 + years; and I use them hard. At one time, or another I've seen it all. These guys who like to brag and post crap about (almost) never cleaning their Glocks are just plain IGF idiots; and I'm sure that Smyrna would tell them so, too.
Neither is there any good or necessary reason, whatsoever, to leave the Loctite C5-A Anti-Seize Compound (the, 'gold-colored grease') inside your Glock after you've purchased it and brought it home. The C5-A is there to: (1) Protect a Glock from corrosion between the dissimilar metals of the slide and connector tab during PROLONGED distributor storage, and (2) guarantee that a new, possibly uncleaned, and unlubricated Glock pistol will go, 'Bang!' the first time it is used.
Once the Glock pistol is put into service and receives regular maintenance you no longer need the grease - Period.
I had a really similar sequence of events happen on one of my earlier MacBooks (fan was noisy --> then ran at strangely low speeds, yet high CPU temps --> fan failure). In pretty short order (2-3 days) the fan stopped working entirely (fan speed dropped to 0, CPU temp went sky-high).
Note: I made the assumption that you have a 13" MBP, which may more may not be correct. Obviously the fan can probably be found for a lot cheaper somewhere else, but if you're at all nervous about compatibility/ordering the wrong part, ifixit.com has some pretty great guides and descent replacement parts. PM me if you have any questions (I've done a lot of MacBook/MacBook Pro micro repairs on my machines over the past 7 years)
This.
It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):
Other generic stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002X29G/ref=sr_ph_2?qid=1449878663&sr=sr-2&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=stanley+screwdriver+set
You can watch like 6 videos and know how to build a computer. Once you know what fits where, it's like putting together legos. These screwdrivers make everything way easier too.
You'll want some precision wire cutters, not sure if thats included with the pliers you listed.
Once you get tired of dealing with the piece of shit coil jig you can pick up some precision screw drivers like
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/
or even the all metal ones that have more options for smaller coils
This and my hands make a pretty solid wrapping kit
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Title | Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool
Description | Fasttech Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers https://www.fasttech.com/p/1926001 stainless steel / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm sections SKU 1926001
Length | 0:01:17
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Title | UD Coil Jig V3 - Demonstration
Description | UD Coil Jig V3 http://www.vapetime.co.uk This is a quick demonstration of the Coil Jig V3 by Youde Technology. For more information please visit: http://www.vapetime.co.uk/ud-coil-jig-v3/ If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call, contact us or leave a comment. We are always happy to help :)
Length | 0:04:00
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Title | Quick and Effective coil build for RDA atomizers
Description | ::EDIT:: It's a good idea to check your resistance ( ohms ) BEFORE you attempt to glow and fiddle with your coils. The resistance will change as your coils get more even. So check before, then check again after. Thanks. Hey everyone! If i'm being 100% honest. I mostly shot this video for my brother who recently got into the world of rebuilding. He was really struggling with it. Rebuilding has become such second nature to me that I often forget how it feels to be building for the first time and that sense of frustration that sets in quickly. So hopefully some other people will find this video helpful. Rebuilding honestly just takes practice and patience. ANYONE can do a solid simple build that will produce both great flavor and large clouds ( if you want ) The build in this video came out to 0.3ohms, which will work great on a mech mod, or on a higher wattage regulated device like the Sigelei 150w or iStick 50w I used 24g Kanthal, 6 wraps around a 2.5mm screwdriver. Below I have links to most everything I used in this video. Including some "beginner friendly" RDA atomizers. Precision screw drivers http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336275&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&pebp=1435336344707&perid=1M11EBNKQ3Z63A7B0VQ8 Wire Clippers http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336368&sr=8-1&keywords=Wire+Clippers 24g Kanthal http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JWYIHLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336391&sr=8-1&keywords=Kanthal&pebp=1435336399204&perid=0Q2SHF5N87Q64YJT5F9E Organic Japanese Cotton http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Organic-Cotton-Organic-unbleached-Largest/dp/B00P219C5Q Unfortunately the VapeKit has been discontinued. They are doing a V2 kit, but in the meantime check this one out http://www.coil-master.net/product/diy-kit Some good RDA's for new builders IMO Mutation X V4 http://www.vapordna.com/Project-Sub-Ohm-Designed-Mutation-X-V4-RDA-p/psmxv4.htm The Mako http://www.beyondvape.com/store/import-cat-c-1_2/beyond-vape-mako-rda-p-1927.html The IMP http://www.empiremods.com/product_p/youdimp.htm Thanks so much for watching everyone! hope this is helpful. Feel free to follow me on Instagram http://instagram.com/grimmgreen/ Twitter https://twitter.com/GrimmGreen Facebook https://www.facebook.com/GrimmGreen Also please remember that unless you make it so I can reply to you. I will be un-able to reply to your comments.
Length | 0:22:32
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Here is the screen you need ($53). Here is a precision screwdriver set you can use ($4). Here is video showing you how to fix it.
Do it yourself, and save $100 or so.
Youtube I guess. Here's some info about rebuilding in general, feel free to skip what you already know. Make sure you get an ohm reader first thing. You can buy wire and an ohm reader at lightningvapes.com with coupon code LV20 for 20% off. I think most people recommend 26g wire. I went with 24 and it's awesome for subohming, if you're planning to build higher, 28g would be the best. I'm not sure how well 30g will work out but the link below will let you know!
Also check out this website: http://steam-engine.org/coil.asp
On there you input your gauge wire, single/dual/etc coil, your target resistance and what the diameter of your coil is (you'll know this by which drill bit you wrap your wire around. It'll tell you how many wraps to do to get the resistance you want. After you build you'll want to throw the atty on the ohm reader to check for shorts (it won't show a regular reading if it's shorting) and also to check if you're near what your target resistance was. Don't be worried if it's not exact, the 510 ohm reader boxes aren't known for accuracy. If you're within 0.05 ohms you're good. Also some people like to build on their ohm reader, it's nice.
As far as other tools for rebuilding. I would recommend this screwdriver set: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420044741&sr=1-2&keywords=stanley+6+piece+precision+screwdriver+set
It's great, I use it everytime I touch my mod for maintenance. Not sure what other people use but since I got that I never looked for anything else! The bits are awesome for wrapping coils around and the phillips will fit your post screws for sure.
That's about all you need really. Other than wire cutters and pliers/tweezers. You can get these awesome ceramic tipped tweezers from that first site. The ceramic won't get hot so you can squeeze your coils tighter with them while the coils are hot.
As far as preventing shorts, well I've never had a short so I can only tell you what I do. Don't let your coils' excess legs be hanging out and flying around all willy-nilly. Cut them nice and close and if you can't get close enough, bend them upward. That's about it as far as I know.
Let me know if you have any questions, sorry I couldn't teach you to build!
28g is good to start with. You'll also need something to wrap your coils on. These screwdrivers are a popular choice. You can also use the little blue screwdriver that will come with your magma. SteamEngine is your friend for coil wrapping.
Pro tip: throw out the pre-made wick and coils that come with your RDA, because they're crap. Keep the extra screws, O - rings and screwdriver, just in case.
Size 0 Phillips, 1.4mm slotted. Here is the kit on Amazon; http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/
They're usually called "precision screwdrivers." Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV?pc_redir=1411139902&robot_redir=1
there's the link to the one I have
I got this a couple weeks ago. Installed it onto an ASROCK Z97 Extreme6 motherboard while in a Define C case, 4790K running at stock currently. The only part that was kind of tough for me was getting the fan retention bracket on , as the center fan has to be installed after the cooler is mounted (had to remove my GPU to install the center fan as well).
I didn't find the two mounting screws hard to manage, but I also used a magnetizer to make the included screwdriver's attraction much stronger. I imagine it would have been a good bit harder to install in the case without that. Power cables were easy with some planning.
If this had been installed outside the case, it would have been an absolute breeze.
Temps are fantastic (generally no more than 45-55 C depending on what I'm doing, room temp is generally between 20-22 C). Tested running the fans at max, very quiet! Anything under 80% is pretty much unnoticeable.
Also: this
an assortment of small philips heads and some smaller torx heads would be your best bet. You can find an inexpensive set on amazon, e.g.: http://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-4mm-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B000FGQ1G6/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1324271293&sr=1-1
as for the paste, arctic silver 5 would be a good bet.
Hell yes. I have one of those, and about 4 of these, also bought at Fry's, which are perfect for anything computer-case-screw sized or smaller. I keep one in my laptop bag, one in my backpack, and two on my shelf, and because they're so cheap I don't mind loaning them out or otherwise abusing them.
You need this, this, and optionally this. Go over all the instructions beforehand, watch a few different videos so you're somewhat familiar with what goes where, do it in a clean, well-lit environment with a good place to keep the screws, and don't rush it. It's honestly not difficult at all.
Oh, and you might wanna wear latex gloves or something, to keep any oils on your skin from getting onto the internals of the phone. Getting some of the metal areas dirty can effect your reception, or so I've heard.
For laptops this tool set has been a godsend
https://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-Precision-Screwdriver-PK30/dp/B000FGQ1G6
I have gone through 3 of them because I always end up dropping the case and losing pieces bit by bit after that.
You'll need to use something like this. http://screwremover.com/Pages/grabitMicro.php You may want to measure the screw to see if these are small enough.
EDIT: Amazon has another company if you search for "grabit micro" The additional photos showed a person who had to remove stripped screws from an Apple notebook/cellphone. http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_6
Moody Tools 58-0670, or in silver.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Screw-Extractor-4-Piece-1000264/205110987
https://www.amazon.ca/58-0670-6-Piece-Extractor-Reversible-Driver/dp/B000JCT3W0
Lots of choices for normal sized screw extractors. For the really small ones, give this set a try. (available from other vendors incl brick'n'mortar places).
I almost stripped the screws on mine as well while trying to unscrew with a cheap screwdriver. I ended up getting this: Moody Tools 58-0670 6-Piece Slot/Phil/Screw Extractor Combo Reversible Driver Set. I managed to get them out with just the driver, but I am sure the extractors will come in handy at some point.
I'd give this one a shot. https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=MOODY+screw+extractor&qid=1555039644&s=gateway&sr=8-4
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That's how I removed the motherboard of my MBP. I stripped the heads of at least 6 motherboard screws, pretty much ground them to a cone with my regular phillips drivers. These ones took a bit of patience and finger skills, but got everything out.
The R button failing is a fairly common issue with the earlier 3ds models. I have one of the smoke black ( I suppose ) models and had to open it up and replace the switch in mine.
They are very easily replaced and fairly cheap as well. Here is a set from amazon. Go ahead and watch a tutorial on youtube first if you're hesitant. Oh you'll probably need a tri-wing screwdriver. Most Nintendo stuff requires one. Here is another amazon link to a cheap driver.
Good luck and have fun!
This is the one I have, it's cheap and it gets the job done.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VPBYS6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Here is a link to the one I bought
I was just out with my family bowling, celebrating my birthday early before i go back to school tomorrow :)
[<$5 item] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=ET9F1H0BMZEE&amp;coliid=I1R49O7XJF8KQ3&amp;psc=1)
Moleskien or Write in the Rain style Notebook with these things clipped to it:
So, that's my little comp repair kit, Light + Screwdriver fixed most things I need it to and pen and paper are to take notes and such.
The skeletool works well. Stanley has an equivalent, which I edc. Stanley 66-344 4-in-1 Pocket Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MtX6CbNHGT4DH
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0 Greatest thing ever.
First off, many of these things are intentionally cheap, because I do tend to break and/or lose things, so... Here goes.
All have Amazon links, because that was what was easiest.
Jewelry:
Right front pocket:
Left front pocket:
Wallet highlights:
Left back pocket:
Not shown:
pay attention in class!
http://amzn.com/B0014KMDZ0
It's a pocket screwdriver that would be perfect for leaving in a drawer in the kitchen or in the glove box of the car :)
Thanks for the contest!
EDIT Bah! Well, it use to be an add on item, I guess it's not anymore :/
So how about this cool mini jelly bean storage bin that comes with jelly beans! It just looks awesome!
http://amzn.com/B005OB4XMQ
This guy is in all of my bags. I also carry a North Face Surge 2, it's pretty solid, has a lot of pockets, the laptop pouch is lined so my device never gets scratched up. I have some velcro cable ties that have been very useful at times, but I also go into a lot of rack rooms still.
I agree with the comfy shoes, and I also carry some hand sani and wipes.
Buy this screwdriver immediately. A friend of mine gave me one when I bought my house and I use it religiously. Especially when it is something small like this and I don't feel like getting out my drill and drill bits. It is by far my favorite and most used tool as a home owner.
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https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Klein-Tools-32500/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536541144&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=klein+6+in+1+screwdriver&psc=1
Linesman
I have both of these Klein diagonal cutters
Angled
Straight
Needle Nose
11 in 1
Strippers
Too lazy to do the rest but I’m sure you could figure it out lol
A Klein 11-in-1. I use this more than any other tool. It's fantastic.
Or you could be cool like me.
Get good wrenches, socket wrenches and sockets because these are what you will be using the vast majority of the time. Make sure you get a set of short AND deep sockets too. I might honestly get deep socket first if you have to pick. Also get a 3/4" torque wrench and don't get the harbor freight ones of those. Amazon has good options here. If you spent all of your money on the above items and then added other stuff later you'd be well served. Buying a big kit seems attractive but really putting your money where you will use it the most is a better long term plan. Gearwrench makes good ratcheting wrenches for the price if you want that, but if you aren't willing to spend at least that on wrenches amount get non-ratcheting wrenches instead. Also this thing is one of the handiest tools I own. It's very well built and a very clever design.
Harbor freight does make some OK stuff but it's better to buy less critical things there. I have a set of allen wrenches that have been fine, and their impact sockets are actually pretty good, but you probably won't have an impact for awhile (which is good tbh).
If you're wanting to get fancy then Wera makes excellent screwdrivers.
If not, just any old phillips that isn't too sharp will work.
Don't get the red bull set unless you are really all about the coloring or logo it's like double the price. I also have the tool check plus and the ratchet is a god send but the screwdriver is worthless because of its size. I highly recommend this though
Wera 05051024001 Kraftform Kompakt 25 Slotted and Phillips Bitholding Screwdriver with Bayonet Blade and Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mBBRybAD2S2CX
Uh. No offence but what the difference between this and a multi tech driver or similar
It's the supremely awesome Wera bit driver- its actually got a spring loaded compartment to store your bits. Fits a full set of T5-T10 bits, pretty much all you need to service the majority of knives you'll come across. The bits I use are from Wiha though
I have a wera 817r bit holder and really like it's versatility. The bit actually LOCKS in place, not only a magnet, so it pulls out very rarely. it can be used in both the stubby and extended positions, and the bit holder can be removed and put in a drill/impact driver which is a feature I use alot. for the same price you can get this one which has in handle bit storage, the down side is that the handle is significantly fatter and I prefer the feel of the smaller more standard size handles.
$20 or less: a good pen light or wowtac headlamp.
https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Penlight-Rendering-Diagnostic-Waterproof/dp/B07C9XP692/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=iyp365+lumintop&amp;qid=1574031374&amp;sprefix=iyp&amp;sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlight-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Headlamps/dp/B071HW5XQH/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=wowtac+headlamp&amp;qid=1574031445&amp;sprefix=wowtac+headlamp&amp;sr=8-2
Edit: looks like these are priced a bit over $20 currently, but if you search around, you can get them for $20.
$50 or less: I like to give the wera multi bit screwdriver and a makita bit set.
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-BithoCSLDing-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wera+multibit+screwdriver&amp;qid=1574031498&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sprefix=wera+multi&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-B-46919-Impact-Torsion-Insert/dp/B0042CF03Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?keywords=makita+bit+set&amp;qid=1574031539&amp;sr=8-10
$100 or less: I've got nothing for this one, possibly a battery for the persons choice of cordless tools?
I don't carry this on my person, usually just leave in my work bag until needed but this might fit the bill for you
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001HSNHM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465503674&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=wera&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=418t39btJpL&amp;ref=plSrch
It's a wera kraftform kompakt. Hold 6 bits in the handle and can extend for better reach. Fairly compact for what is essentially a full size screwdriver. Comes with a nice belt pouch too. I keep a knipex 6" water pump pliers snugly stashed in the belt loop and it's been a very functional tool kit for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4KP4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465504155&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=knipex+cobra+pliers+6&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HdNhgMdeL&amp;ref=plSrch
http://i.imgur.com/sOIrsn7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rawQLDC.jpg
Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_J1FzwbNS0QZF7
Channellock 3017 8-Inch Long Nose Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000189FGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Q2FzwbCXDPFPC
Klein Tools 1010 Long-Nose Multi-Purpose Tool, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302WX/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_B4Fzwb2HE7B9V
I've got the snap on version, but from a YouTube video comparing the Williams (also a snap on brand), they're pretty close in quality and cheaper.
JH Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.pbQzbTPG4YYS
Edit; if the shank is removable like the snap on ones, gearwrench makes extra accessories for it. I got a 1/4 drive socket extension and flex extension for mine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NI1LZK/?coliid=I2PKW7RRMR60G&amp;colid=1STA3F605B81X&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This has storage but it's light and more like a regular screw driver, also the same one snap-on re-brands.
Not sure of the size you need, but here is a set of triangle hand drivers on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Screwdriver-Replacement/dp/B004IUEHYS
something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Screwdriver-Electronic-McDonalds-Disassemble/dp/B07H3S81D4
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if so, try googling first, and to really get help, you need to add a picture.
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EDIT: here's another one....
https://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Screwdriver-Replacement/dp/B004IUEHYS
Found this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IUEHYS/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B001F3FUBK&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1R80WTBY18X5ABCZH8JT
not sure if any of em will fit though.
I like the offerings from Megapro. Made in the USA (unlike the latest from Klein, which are increasingly made in China) with a lifetime warranty. The 15-in-1 is the standard, but the ratcheting model is great too.
If you want a megapro multi driver I highly recommend this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VJY1EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mVF.BbCNT3FQH
I've been eyeing those AirConsoles for a while. A good flashlight is great. That screwdriver someone mentioned was cool.
I have this one and like it a lot.
Folks have mentioned the smaller Leatherman tools here. I liked this one so much, I bought one for both of my key rings.
Klein makes really great stuff. My main go-to screwdriver right now is the Wera Kraftform Kompakt Racheting Screwdriver
The Wera Kraftform is really nice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tY4zDNlMU4
Wera makes one with a longer extension. I have one, its a very nice tool.
The Gearwrench ratcheting screwdriver sets are pretty nice and versatile also - similar construction to the tool truck brands with a squarish handle. Very rugged and durable. The whole set isn't much more expensive than the single Wera driver...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_enHTDb8WDTFR2
That's the ratcheting model I was referring too, unless there's a different model I'm not aware of.
I would add that the soldering iron must have a pointy tip! I've been trying to replace my modules, but the stock tips are huge (for the intended work) I could not reach the spots to melt.
The one i'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also, be sure that the Torx are Security Torx! They have the hollow star shape and also an inside round tip. https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=pd_sbs_469_5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B004YUB6ZU&amp;pd_rd_r=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR&amp;pd_rd_w=jAo1O&amp;pd_rd_wg=DYMkI&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR
Regular controllers are easier to take apart; elite is a little tougher. I would search a youtube video. I usually get a small flathead and prop it up where the triggers are, and then remove the sides with my fingernails; you can use your brute fingernails but that hurts for me. You'll also need a T8. If you have any extra Xbox One controllers that you don't really use, I would test run those first. As for the 'a' button, I've never had the sticky issue. You might want to take apart the controller and try washing the button or look for any problems that are causing it, around the button area. Putting the controller back together is really easy; just make sure you don't lose sight of the parts.
I've painted Xbox one controllers. You could always attempt to tighten up the screws a little with a T8 Security but that honestly probably won't do much. These controllers are assembled and fit together much better than the Xbox 360 controllers.
If you're going to take it apart or tighten it up. One of the screws is under the sticker under the batteries. Make sure you peel that off gently if you're going to replace it, because opening a controller up does void your warranty.
I'd just chalk it up to it being cheaper plastic than the 360 controller.
Here's the latest controller I've done.
I suggest a driver with a shaft long and thin enough to reach the screw in case it is recessed in a narrow hole.
Best bet is to get a smallish driver with a thin shaft 2-4 inches in length like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=pd_sim_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B004YUB6ZU&amp;pd_rd_r=ec303680-c4b4-11e8-82da-57b640a56e37&amp;pd_rd_w=La8sL&amp;pd_rd_wg=df6ft&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&amp;pf_rd_r=66XG0SR5G3355VAA3Q16&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=66XG0SR5G3355VAA3Q16
Other options like those multi-bit driver sets are great for most cases but those bits may be too short or too fat to handle some situations. Of course you can get a set of long, thin bits as well but that's likely too much tooling than you want.
The XBox 360 PC Wireless Receiver is cheap. If you're coming across controllers in your travels, it would be worth your while to invest in one.
Windows has built game controller testing functions that should be able to verify full functionality of the controllers.
I picked up a cheap T-8 security screwdriver for opening up the shell to clean them and occasionally replace thumbsticks. I come across truly NASTY controllers sometimes, but as long as all the buttons and sticks work it's just a quick dunk in the sink with the dishes to clean them up.
Sold several dozen so far, no complaints or returns!
you don't need any soldering iron if you want to do what I need, you only need a Torx T8H screwdriver (http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU) and a knife, or something to cut off some plastic.
http://imgur.com/H7nX1RD
This is the little bit of plastic that I had to cutoff
No IT guy should be without one of these sets:
http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-68457.html
Description doesn't name T8H but says "Star with center hole". I looked up T8H to confirm: http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU Yup, my set has that in it.
There's a HF in South Attleboro and one in Warwick. They always have the set in stock.
This TEKTON kits is a bit cheaper and has better case. Lifetime warranty but doesn't include the pry tools, those are super cheap though.
This is what I picked up some years back. That "mini-kit" you see in the middle is what I use to open up my cell phone (T3 screws). The large driver is ratcheting and can store bits in the handle. Haven't stripped any of the bits after 3 years of light to moderate use.
Prying tools, a nice screwdriver, small spatulas a grounding bracelet and a nice case. $50? Fuck no.
this is just ok. For $60 you can get your self your last toolkit. This is the center piece the last screw driver set you will ever buy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
pry tools aren't common but they diabolically cheap: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xpry+tools&amp;_nkw=pry+tools&amp;_sacat=0
grounding bracelets are $5 bucks across the board, and you can get a nice bag for all your tools.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFNJES/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A37XNGS4WH2DDR
If you are barely starting gearing up throw in, a wire stripper, a soldering iron with 21G solder, flux, a pump and solder remover.
Some time down the road, throw in an internet cable crimper some internet cable connectors and have the power of fixing any cable at any lan party.
Throw in a magnetic nut and bolt tray, spare 21g wire and your set for life.
If you want you can add, a small axe, flashlight, a pack of batteries, quarter bottle of vodka, and a magnesium rod. It will bring the cost to like $150 2014 dollars but this set will make you the most popular kid in the fallout and will guarantee unlimited bottle caps.
So given the choice between these two:
Wera Kraftform Micro-Set, 12 Pieces
Wiha Micro Bit Set, 39 Bits
and the roughly equivalent price, I should still go with the individual drivers for BIFL.
I can't speak for Wiha, but I use a ratcheting multi-bit holder Wera screwdriver that has been used at my job for over 3 years, 40 hours a week. I use the screwdriver HEAVILY, I mean nearly constantly over the span of each 8 hour work day. Only last week did the ratcheting mechanism start giving out. I'm going to be buying another.
HOWEVER. Since you're specifically asking for a micro-bit set, I have coworkers that use wiha for that and they seem to do the job fine. Don't know if Wera has similar stuff, I assume they do, but from what I've heard about them and seen first hand both will serve you fine, so go with whatever is cheaper. If it's ratcheting consider that a bonus, saves a lot of wear and tear on the old wrist.
EDIT:Yes Wera does carry a micro "set", it's individual drivers in a case. $41. And yes, Individual drivers are always stronger than a multi-bit single driver if you're going for true BIFL factor here.
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05073675001-Screwdriver-Electronic-Applications/dp/B009ODV0PI
I can highly recommend this set of Wera precision screwdrivers.
Wera
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ODV0PI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AppcBbC9EMEYJ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BSKR35U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8qpcBbVBY7VE3
Uh, 62$ cad is what I paid for this set and that seems pretty cheap for the quality of the tools?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0PI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For a hobbyist that doesn't go ape on them should last a lifetime?
I highly highly highly suggest a JIS cross point no. 2. The philips head no 2 can easily damage the screws used from the factory.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518651012&amp;sr=8-1&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&amp;rps=1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=jis&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=413vva2sI3L&amp;ref=plSrch
The PA unit is under the filter board. No soldering needed to remove it. Just a lot of screws and multi pin connections. I suggest a camera to keep track.
I also suggest a high quality thermal paste like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Ceramique-Compound-CMQ2-2-7G/dp/B0087X73AM
Or
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ORACO-MX40001-BL-Compound-Performance-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY
You can do it yourself. The rebuild part itself is very easy, requiring the right parts, basic tools, ability to follow directions, and patience. The hardest part is going to be removing and reinstalling the carbs in the bike.
Here's what you need:
After rebuilding, you may or may not need new carb insulator boots. Your old ones will likely either be hard as rocks or will have cracks that leak air.
I own the same bike as you and have rebuilt the carbs without previous carb experience. If you have questions, PM me and I'll help how I can.
Also, while your replacements won't have the same heads likely, shimano "phillips" screws are actually JIS, in the event you weren't aware.
http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
Something like that will help prevent them from stripping.
Do you have recommendations on where to buy? Found these, but they have mixed reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Your screws are not Philips screws they a Japanese industrial standard or JIS. They look the same but the angles are different and will strip if a Philips is used. Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
I use this set
I have these, I'm not sure why they're listed at $20 bucks now since I bought them for $8 last year. I got these because I have a universal screwdriver handle that I thought they would fit into. Of course, they don't so I have to grab the end with pliers sometimes when I'm getting a screw in or out. They're high-quality and work fine. If I was buying again today, I'd probably take a chance on these. They're cheap and have an integrated handle.
Save your money and keep the original, take it out, clean it up well and use a pin or needle to bend the pins back so they are all uniform. The 72 pin that came with the NES is higher quality than the replacements are. While your in there disable the 10NES lockout chip and almost every game will work the first time. There are several tutorials on how to do both of these on youtube or google. Additionally your going to want to clean up your dirty games before putting them in a clean 72 pin connector. Some buy a cheap bit that will eventually be lost but for about the same price can buy [this set from amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and work on most oldschool consoles / games. :)
I used to do the pen thing but it only works like half the time. I just bit the bullet and bought these . They are not to expensive and nice to have around if you ever want to open any sega / nintendo stuff
For anyone that’s interested buy this one
I actually own both of these sets and I almost never use that cheap plastic driver anymore. Plus the one I linked the driver itself extends and it has longer bits so having both bit sets is still useful if you already have the other set. The driver in the one I linked is worth the price alone.
Oh good, I've never known pcpartpicker to get compatibility wrong. Plus, from what I can see your build looks great. I did want to note that a GTX 1080 will only be different from a cheaper graphics card if you have a monitor that can utilise its power, i.e. one that is 1440p and 144hz (or more). If you're using a monitor with a lower resolution or refresh rate, say a 1080p/60hz monitor that's the most common, I'd consider a cheaper graphics card (like a GTX 1060 6GB), because there will be noticeable difference in performance. Just wanted to make sure you knew that. : ) I see a lot of people overspend just to have a GTX 1080 even though there will be no difference at all in what they can see on their screen.
Getting to the question you actually asked: So people like to say that you can build the entire computer with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver (that's the "regular" size). This is basically true. I'd recommend spending $10-15 on an extra long scewdriver (10 to 12 inches). The length really helps when working deep in the case. I bought one after my second build, and since then the builds have been SO much better. I have one like this one and it's great. Especially since it's magnetic.
Another extremely useful item is a magnetic scew/bolt tray, like this one will save you a LOT of time and trouble.
The one and only screw on most builds that doesn't take a standard screwdriver is the tiny screw that holds m.2 SSDs into place. I didn't see if you have an m.2 SSD or a 2.5" one. Either way, a small precision screwdriver set can be very useful. I own this one which is extremely high quality, but there are much cheaper versions out there. They come in quite useful around the house too.
So long story short, you can basically get away with just a cheap standard screwdriver, but a couple of extra tools can make your life a lot easier.
I really dig this set. The handle is solid and extends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O/
Bro... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n.PyDbEWT98RR
I use this for work and it's pure gold.
You're setting yourself up for a fire or you could spend 20 bucks and get a toolkit.
I just got a cheap one on amazon, but if you pull stuff apart frequently, you may want to pay the ~$20 for a set of tech bits
XOOL 80 in 1 Precision Set with Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Electronics Repair Tool Kit with Portable Oxford Bag for Repair Cell Phone, iPhone, iPad, Watch, Tablet, PC, MacBook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cNpHDbZ0J0BZQ
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/PlayStation+4+Power+Supply+Replacement/24719
Philips #1 and TR9 Torx
You should be able to get a kit that has a bunch of standard screw bits from Lowes, Home Depot, or Walmart. Amazon has precision screwdriver kits with other tools for common tech repairs. I have this one and it works well.
If you’re going to be opening up laptops, might as well invest in quality tools.
$21 “iFixit” kit.
I don’t know what your laptop needs, but I’m
99% sure that this’ll have what you need and then some.
Amazon Link
I bought this a few weeks ago and I have already found it extremely useful: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It has most (if not all) of the bits in yours plus a whole bunch of super tiny bits for things like glasses. Within the first week I found a use for a star bit (my laptop) and a square bit (removing an old ceiling light fixture that used square screw heads for some reason. You could tell that whoever installed it tried to use a slotted screwdriver because the screw heads were totally fucked up).
Just be careful with the smaller bits because it is really easy to put a fuckload of torque on them with a great big grippy handle. The bits themselves are fine, but you might fuck up the threads in whatever you are screwing (experience talking, ruined one of the screws on my laptop by tightening it too much).
The downside is that it is more expensive. It has a lifetime warranty, though, so if you ever break a bit, they will send you a new one no questions asked (just read the manufacturer replies in the comments to see this).
Multitools are universally crap I found.
I use one each of these which is as close as I'll get to multitools:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009ODV0PI/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000X1R2K2/
Both come with pouches and loops so you can transport them or stick 'em on your batbelt if you fancy it.
German "Wera Kraftfortm" tools only
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Micro-Set-12-5073675001/dp/B009ODV0PI/ref=pd_sim_469_58?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B009ODV0PI&amp;pd_rd_r=6FPSJM18T1DH9XRB69R8&amp;pd_rd_w=TU3HU&amp;pd_rd_wg=Fkh24&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6FPSJM18T1DH9XRB69R8
and
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493822380&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wera+tools
Can't recommend these enough
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kraftform-Micro-Set-Screwdriver-electronic-applications/dp/B009ODV0PI
If you are doing any controls work, pick up Wera screw drivers they are the best screw drivers for terminal blocks, very good steel, have never had a tip break or striped a screw.
Only a month late getting back to you on this...
The three case with three handles are all torque screwdrivers
Links to everything here:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BSKR35U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0PI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00E8HM9N2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001555G80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01H88FP24/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That looks pretty nice, but I was wondering about the specific Japanese set AvE talked about for a dollar. I've already got the Wera precision set for electronics.
It's an old Jap bike. So you are going to actually need a JIS screwdriver to get it apart without doing damage to anything. Most hardware stores won't know what the f you are talking about. Might need to overnight one from amazon if you are serious about getting into it. This is the set you will need, you will also need a very small and high quality flathead.
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472699179&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=jis+screwdriver
Here's the carb.
http://imgur.com/mD1mTzT
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
You'll want a small (#0 or #00) JIS crosspoint driver like these. If you're careful, you can use a small phillips, but do so at your own risk.
Oh man, I had no clue the screws were different. Good heads up!
More stuff to research :)
Quick Amazon search turned up this set:
JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (New 3rd. Gen) (Japan Import)
And sounds like a bearing kit is easiest to put in now, will definitely add this upgrade to the list.
Available on Amazon too...
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549415220&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=jis
Use left twist drill bits. If you're lucky they'll bite in and twist the screw out. Get JIS screwdrivers, strip less screws.
Just get a full set; your future self will thank you (can't find the exact one, but it was similar to this one on amazon)
These.
I got these ones from amazon.ca/.com
http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398202464&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Nintendo+security+tool
work like a beaut
Its a bit of a stretch... but Heres my optics beacause EVERYONE should have one...
And Here is a mechanical of sorts. Its atoy to me, because I want to take apart old games and systems and turn them into other things... like lunchboxes and external hard drives. <3 So yeah, its a toy.
Thanks for the contest!!!
Recommend using This site to help you make your determination if you are paying the correct amount for a game, instead of looking on ebay. also I recommend you get One of these If you wanna keep going for the higher end stuff. Before you shell out the cash you may want to ask to open the cart up and see the board, then compare it to images online. shelling out $200 for Mega Man X3 or Castlevania Dracula X only to realize it is a reproduction would feel really shitty.
You got some solid titles. Do you have many retro stores in your area?
There's a user on Planet VB called RunnerPack. He does the permanent solder fix for displays and does a excellent job from my experience, and for fairly cheap too, $10/display unit if I remember correctly. Just hit him up a message over there and you'll be golden (or red, I should say :P).
Just so you know, you are going to have to open up the Virtual Boy yourself, so you'll need a screwdriver for the security bits (the 4.5mm ones in particular). You can find them on amazon for fairly cheap.
Edit: extra junk.
UN3. I also have the 4.5mm Game Tool. Opened up the console to check. Amazon Link
Dude I went for these http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380913239&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nintendo+bit
Under ten bucks and they work perfectly and are very solid!
thank you! :D
http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Nintendo-Security-Screwdriver-Gamecube-SNES/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=2K2AJBJYXTUMV&amp;coliid=I1PC7QGP4WVNDC
If you're looking for a high quality triwing I really like this one from Moody Tools:
affiliate link - non-affiliate link
They also make really nice JIS (Japanese Standard like Phillips) drivers which I find are immensely better than standard Phillips drivers.
For gamebits / Nintendo security bits, I have this set and I really like it. They are made out of a reasonable quality stainless steel.
affiiate link -
non-affiliate link
Full disclosure: If you click on the affiliate link and buy the product I will get a small commission from Amazon to help pay for my childrens' education ;) I personally own the products I linked to.
Sounds like you're going to want to order up a set of gamebit screw drivers, so you can open her up and see what's wrong. I'm willing to bet you have a capacitor that has gone bad, and I'm willing to bet it is the big one. I'm talking about the 25v 1000uf one.
Image - http://imgur.com/u3ETVe8
In this picture, it is the largest one in the bottom left corner of this image (I have placed a red circle around it)
It may also be the fuse which runs across the rectangular section that is cut out of the bottom left of the board. (I have placed a red oval around it)
PS. Here is a link to the very gamebit screwdriver set that I own. They both fit their respective screws perfectly, and at 6.99 you really can't go wrong - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=1535523722&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B000F78NBQ&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1BV25384W378SQK7H9H0
Nanch tools on amazon have been awesome for me. Even hold on up to Spydercos loctite
NANCH Precision Screwdriver Set with 22 Magnetic Bits for all Electronics Devices,23-piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3jxIybS1PB0TZ
Laptop: On-site warranty
Printers: Outsourced service / toner
Cisco IP Phones: Smartnet
It's not worth the time of our staff (both IT and the non-IT staff affected) to troubleshoot hardware issues. We just swap it out with a spare, then call in service or RMA the hardware.
Re: screwdriver sets... I wouldn't spend the extra money on the iFixIt brand stuff--it's pretty much the same as the Amazon link. Personally I've found most of them are the same... it just depends on the case you get and the case included with that is pretty crappy (it's essentially the VASTAR one but colored blue.. once that plastic insert gets lost or damaged [it'll probably arrive damaged, too] those bits are going to be flying all over the place and be impossible to close the case). I'd go for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00QZLV03O/ezvid02-20
Just a screwdriver probably. I have this set and it works nicely
https://www.amazon.com/Nanch-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone-Electronics/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550812825&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=screwdriver%2Bset%2Belectronic&amp;th=1
I own the ifixit set and have a ton of mileage on it, but I also purchased the Nanch Precision set for less and consider it a superior product, though both are good.
Is this ok? I really can’t tell good quality tools from cheap tools so idk.
Nanch Precision Small Screwdriver Set with 22 Bits,Repair Tool Kit for Computer,Smartphone,iPhone,Game Console and other Electronics Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_snfPAb4GJZJYE
I love this set. I have 2.
actually i was really curious about this so i googled/amazoned some more:
http://www.amazon.com/Screwpop-SP2BP-Black-Mutli-Tool/dp/B006GER8S6/ref=sr_1_42?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449722623&amp;sr=1-42&amp;keywords=pocket+screwdriver
http://www.amazon.com/SE-7525TS-10-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B002Q836V4/ref=sr_1_22?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449722523&amp;sr=1-22&amp;keywords=pocket+screwdriver
that one has what youre looking for but its not a 1/4" hex so itll be a pain to find replacements (those bits look kinda cheapy)
http://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-Office-Stanley-Screwdriver-66-344-2/dp/B00ZPSO8GE/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449722523&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=pocket+screwdriver
That one is a 5mm bit, close to 1/4" but not quite (1/4" is 5.5mm)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O?psc=1
your best bet is that one with a box of #2 phillips/slotted from home depot or amazon...
Yeah, I've got 2 sets of those. Problem is 2 of the holes on the Vive controller where the screws are located (the two eye holes at the bottom) are too deep for my nubby torx screws to reach the bottom of them.
I just ordered these. Think they should be long enough
This is what I finally went with.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used one of those websites that filters out all the amazon reviews from incentivized users and such. I literally just ordered it so I can report back if you'd like once I actually receive the product.
Overkill for just a T430, but I can highly recommend this kit for laptop work. I refurbish laptops and this is the kit I use and it's quality.
Have done exactly what you are asking.
I am typing this on the lowest end 9570 (refurbished Dell Outlet) with an upgraded SSD and 97whr battery.
These are the exact parts and where I got them:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EBK-6GTPY-Battery-Compatible-Dell-XPS-15-9560-9570-Precision-5520-M5520-Replacement-5XJ28-5041C-H5H20-5D91C-Laptop-6-Cell-11-4V-97Wh-12-Months-Warran/987434458
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QH5KW1
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBX6TY
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGZEVHU
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You will have to take out the HDD to put in the bigger battery. You may also need to change BIOS settings to get the best SSD performance.
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You will need a special screw driver to open the case, use the biggest one that will fit and remember rigthty tightly lefty lucey. :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O
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Look online for how to open the case. Don't forget the two Phillips in the middle under the magnetic plate.
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Battery life is outstanding.
$70 is pretty expensive for the tools listed. You can cut the cost by nearly half if you just go on Amazon and look for a phone repair kit, (I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i8BIAbZ106DHH )
This includes most of what you'll need, the only thing missing is a source of heat and soldering iron.
For heat you can use a heat gun (low setting, these can get really hot!) or even a hair dryer/hand warmers will do in a pitch, although it will probably take longer.
Thanks for this, Im already worried about one controller failing, I'll definitely grab another set and see if I can't repair these for a backup.
Hmm, maybe invest in a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wdTvDb69G7GWN. Not sure if they have specifically what would help, but they might.
can ibuy this one instead? since its a Little lesser and should be the same type?
80 in 1 Precision Screwdriver Set with Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Electronics Repair Tool Kit with Portable Oxford Bag for Repair Cell Phone, iPhone, iPad, Watch, Tablet, PC, MacBook and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_lYOYBbBBN58ZQ
Screen: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCVPO9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_9QJWDbYMTVHP6
Tools:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ETJWDb4BP4WG1
I'm sorry, I can't find the lens anywhere.
I use this for almost everything: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ke6RCbBTP6KWJ
So, if you're on a tight budget I would suggest trying the Nikon manual focus lenses. I had the 50, 35, and the 105. They are good lenses but I had my issues with them. They focus backwards, to go to infinity you rotate the focus ring the opposite way of nearly every other lens. They also have a distinct bokeh, it's not bad, just not my taste. They are cheap and really easy to come by.
To declick lenses you should only need a good set of precision set of screwdrivers. I have these
You can look up declicking specific lenses on Google.
I also purchased [this](Neewer Professional Flat & pointhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F6O92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPn1xbT6E3FVK) so I could take off the front element of the lens if it needed cleaning. Totally not necessary for cine modding but fun to take apart lenses.
You can buy focus gears from all kinds of places online. There are plenty of choices and prices. I buy mine from followfocus gears.com they aren't cheap, but they are seamless, and are 3D printed for specific lenses. They fit perfectly.
For the adapters, I've had some good luck with fotodiox in the past. They are relatively cheap. Sometimes they don't fit as snuggly as they should and that is a problem. With my 105mm when I would touch the lens to focus the lens would physically move side to side and the image would shift. Not good for video. For my contax set I purchase Leitax adapters that actually screw on the the existing mount so they can't shift at all.
For you I suggest you getting a cheap 50mm and try it out. You don't need to buy the gears or declick right away. Just get a lens and an adapter and see how you like it. Stay away from Canon FD lenses as you need an adapter with a glass element in it to focus to infinity. It's not worth the hassle and hard to find a good quality adapter with out breaking the bank.
I didnt get it from this exact set, but its identical to the ones that i used. I did it on the one all the way to the left. They are calling it the "Phillips #1"
I don't know if this ships to DK but the jeweler's screwdriver set will be something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G
Rubber screws dampen noise from vibrating fans and are awesome.
Get two Philips head screwdrivers, one #1 and one #2 sized. The #1 will be smaller. Flathead size doesn't matter as much, 1/8"-1/4" (3.175mm to 6.35mm) head width should do. Jeweler's kit will cover the rest.
Also look into some magnetic screw trays they are cheap and very useful for keeping things organized.
Well good for you, keep it up.
Building isn't hard. Just make sure you have the right tools or it'll be frustrating. You should try it. Get these wire cutters: https://www.fasttech.com/product/1243300-plato-170-flush-cutter-for-rebuildable-atomizers and a small set of screwdrivers like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G Wire like this: https://www.amazon.com/UD-Youde-wire-Kanthal-Clapton/dp/B01JH0JJL4 Cotton like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2GXGAU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vbk-WVjd9dE&amp;app=desktop
You can get as advanced as you want with it but doing a simple build takes minutes and IMO, is the best way to go.
Also want to point out I didn't purchase all my stuff from those links, but those are the products you need. Those sites I linked should be legitimate, but you could always shop around for a better price or slight variations if you want.
Have a great night!
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G
You could find these at a hardware store. Or a hobby store even.
like mentioned you can get a coil jig, or some people use little screw driver hits, usually 2.5 or 3.0mm. You can get a kit for less then $10 in many places. Similar to this http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G
Cant help with the crown, sorry.
offset screwdriver? or maybe a mini screwdriver. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G
Something like this is nice to have. http://www.amazon.com/Repair-Opening-Screwdriver-iPhone-Samsung/dp/B00GYO7OT6/
To be honest, I just used a little flat head screw driver. Just be gentle.
I have a kit kind of like this one. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G Think I picked up a generic one from the dollar store/walmart.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002X29G/ref=pd_aw_sims_5?pi=SL500_SS115&amp;simLd=1#
I wrap on the smallest one.
Check out some of these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=build+your+first+coil
I order my wire on Amazon, and its like $8 for 100ft of your choice in gauges, $12 or so for a bag of Japanese Organic Cotton, maybe another $15-$20 for wire cutters/tweezers, and $18 for a Coil Master jig if you want to use them. Oh, and don't forget anything your atty might need like a Phillips screwdriver (though even though they're crappy, pretty much every atty comes with a tool for it). All in all you're probably looking at around $40 up front, but you'll have about a years supply of cotton at least, and even rebuilding a lot to test things enough wire to last a couple months or so.
Here's some of the stuff you'll want to look for (don't have to use these ones specifically of course):
https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Kanthal-Resistance-Gauge-Lengths/dp/B00MW4O0WG/
https://www.amazon.com/Koh-Gen-Do-Organic-Cotton/dp/B00NU3H3KE/
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO
https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-InnoVaper-Precision-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B00TI6M3WK
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
The only tools that I had available when I built my PC was a six-piece Stanley set. Luckily for me, building a PC doesn't require much more than a screwdriver. As such, the most useful and only tool for me when building my PC was a precision screwdriver.
Due to the fact that my PC is still very new, I have not yet experienced any need to maintain anything.
I bought a set at my local hardware store. They're the doitbest brand precision screwdrivers. http://www.amazon.com/5-Piece-Best-Precision-Screwdriver-SCREWDRIVER/dp/B000HE89Z2
They've been great for the past few years I've had them. The star versions of those aren't so hot though.. I've ruined 2 of the T5 drivers working on firearms and RC cars. The rest of them have stood up to some pretty serious abuse though.
I've had these before, but they are kind of small to hold onto when turning larger screws: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393730634&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=Precision+Screwdriver
They work fine though IME.
If you want to buy the best you can get, Klein tools makes a mighty fine set of screwdrivers. They're pretty expensive though. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-85614-Piece-Electronic-Screwdriver/dp/B0076RWZMQ/ref=sr_1_37?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393730830&amp;sr=1-37&amp;keywords=Precision+Screwdriver
Thanks for the suggestion, but I was already looking at this.
I just ordered some temco 28 gauge kanthal from amazon. I've been using this to wrap with. I dont have any drill bits at the moment.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_5wjYtb0V52W8FXG7
So, $35 for that one, or you can get this for 1/10th the price.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
Because the handles are plastic you can even heat up a pin and set it into the handle to hold your wire better while you wrap.
My apologies, It was 9 wraps and it turns out that my screwdriver is in fact a 0pt. (Assumed it was 3/32.)
Trying to figure out what the actual diameter is but I'm having a bit of trouble.
It's out of this set of Stanley screwdrivers if it helps.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
Do you wrap them around something? And torching the kanthal will help if you find it to be particularly springy. Here is a coil wrapping calculator that will tell you how many wraps you need to reach your desired resistance based on your kanthal gauge and the size of whatever you are wrapping around.
I would suggest investing in a set of screwdrivers like these to wrap on. They are super cheap and wrapping with them is super easy.
I used a 2mm screwdriver. I have a set like this one.
The necessities are:
I'd recommend 26, 28, and 0.8x0.1 ribbon to start. That gives you a lot of options for building. You'll notice the first two links are add-on items on Amazon, so you'll have to buy $25 worth of wire, wire cutters, tweezers, or just add it to some other amazon order you're making.
I know I'm not adding much in the way of telling you what to use (mostly because I feel like the other replies have done a stellar job at doing just that), but when you do go to look for a set of screwdrivers to build with, this is what most people use:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
to piggy back: The Stanley Precision Screwdriver Set for wrapping the coils. amazon has them and target sells them as well if you don't want to order them.
Or maybe the stanley screwdriver set?
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491577769&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41josrE03YL&amp;ref=plSrch
Yeah I was going to go with the EK Vardar fans, I'm looking to keeps temps as low as possible mostly, but less sound would be nice as well. Would the EK Vardar 1450rpm pair well with a EK PE rad?
If you don't mind waiting fast tech is great heres a great rda and good mod for $15
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012340/2088800-tugboat-styled-18650-mechanical-mod-w-rda-atomizer
Also grab an ohm reader there as well for $5
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010372/1897900-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter
Here's some kanthal I suggest 26 gauge 25 feet Is about $4
http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire
Also pick up a battery for about $8 or two for $14 (worth having a backup battery) use the coupon "lv15" for 15% off
http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/samsung-inr-18650-25r-battery
I'd suggest this charger for $12
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096U26QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421740585&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41E7nbJ5btL&amp;ref=plSrch
And these screwdrivers if your local dollar store doesn't have it for $4
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00009OYGV/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
Roughly under $50 for a good setup in my opinion
26ga kanthal
Cotton
Screwdriver set
Ohm reader
Velocity clone by tobecco
Pliers
That's about $60 bucks after shipping, and gets you pretty much everything you need.
You can opt for higher quality things. There's some great coil jig sets out there for about $15, which basically make coils for you. Theres higher quality cotton, better kanthal but this is a good basic setup. It's what I use, at least.
You'll see a lot of people vouching for the velocity clone, its a great RDA with a lot of room to build on.
As far as what mod you want? That's tough. That's a whole other conversation. I can tell you what I use, and what I like about them, though.
I use a Sigelli 150 TC, it's a dual 18650 box mod with temp control, I have two Samsung 25r's that have been "married" since I got them, and live in my mod. My Velocity usually sits on top of it. I use this set up at home, and try new builds on it.
My on the go set up is a Smok xcube mini box mod single 18650, with a royal hunter mini on top. I make sure to build around .3 to .4 on this set up, and stay in a safe range for the single battery. Using an online ohms law calculator, I'm vaping a .38 build at 40 watts. Which is drawing 10a from my battery that's rated for 20a.
To add to the other answer, a magnetized screwdriver can be really useful. If you don't get a magnetized one, you can buy a magnetizer.
Homes, get yourself one of those demagnetizer/magnetizer squares, this way you have the best of both worlds!
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE
Same principle, but all of our techs use one of these.
They work rather well, especially on the smaller tools. Bonus demagnetizer.
If you want, you could buy one of these and you can magnetize them - its a excellent tool :-)
https://3ds.hacks.guide/installing-boot9strap-(ntrboot)
According to the guide I need a magnet to trigger sleep mode, but I'm concerned about my magnet being too strong or too weak.
Here are a few I'm considering
https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527330981&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=magnet
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527331185&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=magnetizer
https://www.amazon.com/XLMAGNET-Countersunk-Mounting-Building-Scientific/dp/B077GNVYZR/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527331163&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=fridge+magnet
I'm largely looking for one under 15$, and one that won't break my 3ds, or rather my New 2DS.
If anyone has any general tips or a range of magnet strength, please provide those too.
Klein just came out with this beautiful new hvac 6-1. It's perfect for diagnostics and light maintenance when you don't want to lug a bag, and it's so new I doubt he has one. I also love these.
EDIT: I totally linked the wrong tool in the first link. THIS is the beautiful tool I meant to share, although the first is very handy too.
What screwdriver set are you using? I have this set which has the correct bit but its not long enough to reach. :(
Boxer - Boxer 30 Pcs 4mm Precision Screwdriver Set - PK30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGQ1G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O..YzbM6B48CZ
I've had this kit for years since my day job was repairing computers. It hasn't failed me yet.
If you want a much nicer set wiha is one of the best brands when it comes to precision screwdrivers
Wiha 75992 System 4 Precision Interchangeable Bit Set, Torx, Slotted, Phillips, Hex Inch, ESD Safe Precision Handle, 27 Piece In Compact Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qbaZzbCKNSP8S
Lots of people. The Wiha set linked to doesn't have the bulb in the middle. OP if you're set on having a bulb I can recommend the Stanley precision screwdriver set. Very affordable and available everywhere. If you don't mind a set with bits I love my Boxer set: https://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-Precision-Screwdriver-PK30/dp/B000FGQ1G6
Else suck it up and buy the Wera set.
I'm a fan of these: http://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-Precision-Screwdriver-PK30/dp/B000FGQ1G6
They've served me well for glasses and computer repair! Magnetic too, though not so much that I've seen issues when putting my computer together...
I like Wiha like everyone else has been say, but I've also liked my precision set from Boxer for some of the goofier torx etc bits.
Yeah the screwdriver that is provided isn't very good, it sucks. I usually recommend to people if they have their own 1.5mm hex/allen screwdriver, then use that. In fact, it's good to just invest in one one, you can get cheap sets on amazon (I use the one below at work when I'm not using the electric gun I have):
http://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-4mm-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B000FGQ1G6/
Go for the cheaper one, but I really like my Boxer set.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FGQ1G6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405346699&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
Yeah I used a t5 and it worked perfectly. I have this set
aw man.. yeah it's really tough to extract stripped screws.. don't give up just yet though, there are extraction kits out there, even for tiny screws like this or this
I've used these in the past with great success. You can hammer and glue them in as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492731155&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=precision+screw+extractor
you could try a screw extractor. I am not familiar with the spyderco deleca 4 knife, but based on googling reviews it seems like it would withstand a fair amount of pressure.
Try something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/58-0670-6-Piece-Extractor-Reversible-Driver/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1342137683&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=screw+extractor+set
If you're going for the cheap hex key + JB weld route check out your local hardware store.
Cheapish screw extractor set to try: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Precision-Screw-Extractor-Set/IF145-118-1 or https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0; reviews are mixed on these though.
For power tools, there are a couple of different options:
For future situations you could keep a set of 'left handed' drill bits, these bits cut by spinning counterclockwise, giving the screw a chance to come loose. But really you should have a screw extractor, ones this small are hard to come by (#0 or #00) but they do exist:
http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/
Here is a hand set that way you don't have to buy a drill.
Ok depends on they type of Barrel. If it is is a standard german barrel with screws protruding I would recommend this tool:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052XQYVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1.
It is very good at grabbing the sides of exposed screws.
If the screw is flush with the service you might have luck with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCT3W0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
you have to be able to put a lot of pressure on the screw head so make sure it is resting level on the desk.
Hey, just wanted to add an update to this in case anyone else runs into the same problem I have. I was almost to the point where I was going to take a drill to the chromebook! :O
Luckily I found Moody Tools Precision Screw Extractor on Amazon.
They worked like a charm and the stripped screws were out in just a few minutes!
>i heard about removing spirngs on shoulder buttons but idk if it would make things better or how to even do it.
Here's the tri-wing screwdriver you need. Or you can ask members of your scene if they have said screwdriver and to bring it to the next event.
Here's a crude but helpful video on how to remove the springs.
And remember, removing the springs will keep you from being able to light-shield in Melee. So keep the springs around in case you want to revert back.
despite not having anything on your want list, I wanted to ask about the Wavebirds. have you tried taking them apart and cleaning them? are there dead spots on the actual boards? it might benefit you to take them apart and dust them. that helped me with a wired Gamecube controller that had a sticky X button and one of the sticks acting weird; now it's in perfect working order. if you're able to find the receivers, that would also help you be able to get rid of them. people rarely want controllers with no receivers, and you also can't very well test them without at least one.
if you don't have a tri-wing, you might have some luck taking them apart with a small flathead screwdriver. I did that before spending $3 on the tri-wing one that worked pretty well since I was careful and didn't force it badly enough to destroy the heads of the screws. I know from experience that the tri-wing screwdriver works for Gamecube controllers, the DS Lite, and GBA carts. I've also read that it will help dismantling Wiimotes, the Wii itself, the Gamecube console, and quite a few other of Nintendo's things. it's worth the $4 if you have any technical knowledge and would trust yourself taking things apart. which I understand many people wouldn't, which is also fine.
and actually, upon further inspection, and after clicking the link to your full want list, that was a lie. I do have a spare copy of Wind Waker without a manual, but I certainly won't be trading that for some half-dead controllers with no receivers, especially if the boards are what's shot.
also, I'm pretty sure that Platinum Game Boy Players were Japan only, and are relatively rare, so I wish you the best of luck finding one. I would love to have my Game Boy Player match my beautiful platinum system, along with its controllers and two of my Wavebirds, but I guess it just wasn't meant to be, and I don't care enough to invest in such a swap when there are games I could be getting instead.
I own two pro controllers and I love them for Wind Waker, Pikmin, and Tropical Freeze. I'm pretty sure it'll be a great substitute for Gamecube controllers. The color scheme is a bit of an issue, as there currently exist only 2 colors, black and white, and if you want every controller to be different, the only thing you can do (which I highly reccomend) is to take the controllers apart with a fancy nintendo screwdriver and trade the buttons around.
There is nothing I know of to protect your existing thumbsticks but you can easily replace them. By buying a triwing screwdriver and replacement thumbsticks from amazon or ebay.
Triwing Screwdriver : https://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467355222&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=triwing+screwdriver+gamecube
Replacement Thumbsticks : https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Analogue-Thumbstick-Gamecube-Controller/dp/B01D0Y63NU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467354830&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=gamecube+sticks
Happy Cubing!
Malthris
If you're a computer tech, you should have no problem. I'm not familiar with this issue, so I have no real information to add. Except that I've been opening and cleaning all of my Nintendo controllers, NES through Wii remote. And they're all fairly easy to disassemble and reassemble. My guess would be that you've just got some human dirt/sweat/goo on one of the buttons. A cotton swab and alcohol will make it feel brand new. You'll probably want to invest in a Nintendo screwdriver as well. Mine has proved useful time and time again.
http://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422383033&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=nintendo+screwdriver
Two. A small philips head size ~00 and a triwing
should be all you need. Maybe a thin flathead or something in case you need to pry the case apart.
Don't buy a new controller, clean/ fix your existing one. It will cost a lot less (~15$) and you will be able to clean/fix all of your other controllers as well. May sound weird because I'm telling you to fix your existing one but don't buy replacement joysticks... the rubber will just fall off on those too... =[ Ive wasted some $ on shitty "replacement" joysticks that don't even last a day. Buy 1 pack of these https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-%E3%83%BBPremium-Slide-Cover-Clear-Black/dp/B00UURTXK6/ref=sr_1_1?s=instant-video&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479033751&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3ds+circle+pad+cover and glue it to your joystick. I used an epoxy resin because i figured it would do the best gluing plastic on plastic but super glue would probably work too. You should still buy a tri-wing screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/Gen-Lite-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Tool/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479034061&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=triwing+screwdriver and some wet-wipes to get inside the controller and clean up a bit. Mine works like brand new but even better because the joystick will never wear down. I'll never part with my original orange GC controller >.<
No luck at Home Depot...but looks like this guy isn't shipping from halfway around the world, and should do the trick.
You can email any of the sites that have a shell that you like. And you'd just need a small triwing and a small Phillips head.
EDC- Penlight, Pocket Screwdriver, 6" Scale Rule, Folding Utility Knife, Gerber Artifact, Sharpie, Pen, Lighter.
LX- 2@ 8" Crescent Wrench w/ safety lanyard, gloves, diagonal cutters, sharpies/paint pens, wire stripper, 5-n-1 screwdriver, non-contact voltage tester. In my gig bag, I have a meter, allen wrench set, c-7's, among other tools I don't really need to lug around on the subway, but then that 1% of the time they come in handy and I accept hauling them around the other 99% of the time.
CARP- Dewalt 12v Impact Driver/Drill set, 7/16"-1/2"-9/16" deep sockets each on an adapter for for use in the impact driver. Same sizes in speed wrench.
Just picked up one of these thumb drive ratchets it has been super useful for working on unistrut and holding bolts when putting together flats or platforms.
Edit: I forgot. Always have my chalk bag handy.
This would be extremely useful because it would save me space in my EDC bag.
My favorite dinosaur is the triceratops.
pocket screwdriver
Screwdriver or double-sided tape I find randomly useful. Also, erasable pens.
dattwenty.com recommends THIS screwdriver which is a complete piece of SHIT. not even worth the plastic its cast from.
Instead, This Husky screwdriver set is relatively cheap and very good quality. I used them at work and at home and they're terrific. Comes in philips/flathead or torx. Apparently they just changed the design of them too, I don't have any firsthand experience with the new handle design. Also, pro tip: they are much cheaper at Home Depot
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-16-in-1-Screwdriver-Set-751016H/204665787
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-IN-1-Torx-Screwdriver-Set-74502/100087664
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Screwdriver-Set-Slotted-and-Phillips-71281H/204664388
I've been EDC'ing THIS for about 10 years. Don't think I could give it up even for the metal body.
Looks sweet though.
Small multi tip screwdriver for electronics. It's the size of a pen. I use it all the time. Victorinox knife for cutting and scraping.
Stanley 66-344 4-in-1 Pocket Screwdriver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yig4CbXD1HBZF
Victorinox Original Swiss Army Climber Pocket Knife (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YVBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pkg4CbK9CEW6Z
Maybe a Stanley 4-in-1 would work for you.
I keep this in my pocket, until I lose it - http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-344-4-in-1-Pocket-Screwdriver/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418695293&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=stanley+screwdriver cheap and works in many situations along with a small racheting screw driver - http://www.doitbest.com/products/mini-ratcheting-screwdriver.
It's a set but I've got one of these and I love it. It has all of the bits you would ever need.
Other than that, I've found these:
Stanley 4 in 1
I too work in IT and keep this in my work bag at all times, also have a second one for home.
Comes in handy when you need it, but I wouldn't recommend it for anything outside of electronics.
Are you open to suggestions?
If you haven't already ripped the packaging off of it, my personal recommendation is to not use the Klein non-contact voltage tester (ticker). My experience with it was not good. It was unreliable and the on/off button is junk so the damn thing would never turn off, then it would sit and beep at me constantly while it was in my tool pouch. I finally got rid of it and bought the Santronics ticker. Easily one of the best purchases I've made as an electrician. It's always on, silent, and extremely reliable.
Also, for your hammer I would recommend one with a longer head on it like this one. The reason for this is because you will be doing a lot of work with deep 1900 boxes and 11bs (don't worry if you don't know what those are yet, you will find out soon) and if you're using fasteners that require pounding in with a hammer, you will need a different hammer than the one you have. If you're doing residential work and need to pound staples inbetween studs, you can just use the side of your hammer.
You can probably just return those gloves. You will (or should) be provided with work gloves (many, many pairs of them) at every jobsite you ever work at. You'll never have to buy another pair of work gloves in your life, I can promise you that.
As others have said, get the Klein multi-tool. The 32500 model is the one I use, along with some other commenters in this thread. They are cheap, you'll probably lose the tips every now and then, but it will easily be your most used tool, especially if you're doing a lot of devicing.
Another personal recommendation of mine would be the Ideal Tool Backpack for hauling your stuff around. Sometimes there's a lot of walking involved in getting to and from jobsites, and being able to carry your tools on your back is a lot nicer than carrying them in your hands. It's also nice having your hands free for carrying your lunch box around!
Congratulations on getting in! Keep up a good attitude and you'll do fine. Don't let anyone get on your nerves. 8 hours is 8 hours, make the best of it at all times.
You get what you pay for. I wouldn't touch a $40 cable tester, much less a tool kit.
You can spend money wisely, like buying a Klein 10-in-1 or 11-in-1 for PSTN/POTS outside work.
For precision drivers, Wiha is what you want- this is a nice portable set which works on the bench as well.
For crimpers I currently use an Ideal Telemaster but will be switching to an Amp. For cable testing I use a Fluke Cable IQ or LinkRunner.
Your tools need to be better quality that the amateurs that banged on it before you. You definitely don't want crappy tools to be holding you back.
If you are worried about theft, sign the tools out to individual techs and make them responsible for them. Part of the sign-out process should be an authorization to withhold the replacement cost from their paycheck if they lose anything.
I keep one of these in my kit, my friend has a picquic and it's nice however I find if I'm working on something that requires me to switch bits back and forth the Klein is better.
Klein Tools 32500 11-in-1 Screwdriver/Nut Driver with Cushion Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_TSy5wbW1531PA
> Klein tools 11in1
Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Klein-Tools-32500/dp/B0015SBILG
My Essentials for an Electrics call
Ultimate Focus Tool: http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/224936-StageJunk-7280-RT/
Adjustable C Wrench: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-Double-Speed-Adjustable-Wrench-96596/203467743
Screwdriver (multi bit) Similar to this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3NM0LBGK3Q7YA&amp;coliid=I3TJ4V0YRRN22T
Belt Tether: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007H6DRGO?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Leatherman Surge: http://www.leatherman.com/surge-3.html#start=2
Mini Mag Light: http://www.amazon.com/MAGLITE-M2A016-Mini-Flashlight-Black/dp/B00002N6SL%3Fpsc%3D1%26SubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-ffsb-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00002N6SL
Gloves Preferably leather for heat protection when focusing, good dexterity for tying knots and I generally like a Velcro latch on the wrist to give a snug fit
klein I use this nearly everyday
Ran my own PC business for a couple of years.
Craftsman Mini Shop Vac. Make sure it blows and sucks. Put it in the corner of your workshop, extend the tube to your current project and kick the switch.
Screwdrivers: Klein 11 in 1 all the way.
Multitool: SOG Powerlock
When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:
Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.
[Buy this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000DYVCX/ref=pd_aw_sbs_469_of_13?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51g-Z1pBaDL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL130_SR130%2C130_&amp;refRID=1H6ZNBA1E0MZHKZ6PSNA)
[And this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4KP4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1463466314&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=knipex+mini+pliers&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HdNhgMdeL&amp;ref=plSrch)
[And this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_aw_vtph_469_bs_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1NT2WRRQR46AWYKGDRHJ)
Add in your knife of choice.
[And keep one of these in the trunk just in case something can't be fixed] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003LS4HZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1463468221&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=stanley+fubar&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=216GABuqFaL&amp;ref=plSrch)
A multi bit screwdriver.
Wera 051024 Kraftform Kompakt 25 Pouch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HSNHM2
I have found some tools that get good reviews and keep weight down:
https://www.totaltools.com.au/68591-bahco-3-piece-ratchet-spanner-set-s4rm3t
http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&amp;L=1&amp;page=art_detail&amp;parentID=1368&amp;groupID=1500&amp;artID=34171
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver-33-Pieces/dp/B000NI7RRS
https://www.toolstop.co.uk/bahco-268-mini-hacksaw-6-inch-150mm-p28022
Which categories do you need the most stuff in? Tools? Kitchen? Clothing?
Some tool ideas for you:
Wiha precision screwdriver set
Williams ratcheting screwdriver, same as snap-on
This one?
Williams Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eLE3DbZGPQHA9
This is who makes it for snap on. It’s exactly the same, just missing knurling
You may just keep looking till you find a used one on ebay. They also sold a number of similar tools under blackhawk and challenger.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proto-Challenger-tools-Magnet-Screwdriver-L7500-Tool-/221273556996?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item3384ee8804
This isn't what your looking for, but it's my favorite pattern. I ended up buying the snap on version at a garage sale, but this is basically the same thing.
http://www.amazon.com/Williams-WRS-1-Magnetic-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377952661&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=williams+screwdriver
I wasn't ready to spend Snap On money, so I got a Williams WRS1 and it's fantastic. Very similar to the Snap On, just has no knurl in the shaft and probably a couple less teeth in the mechanism. Still, it's served me well.
Here is my mini-review of the light. I got the light from Amazon for ~19$ with free shipping. The light comes with a AA battery and lanyard. I ditched the lanyard. The light also comes with an attached pocket clip (more on this later).
This light is as bright as my 3xAAA Costco TechLite Lumen Master and much smaller. To access the modes you click the light once to turn it on, then tap the cap to cycle through the Hi-Low-Strobe modes. You can also do this by quickly turning the light on and off.
Originally I got this light for one purpose.. to use it in the Fenix Headband system ala Nutnfancy. I thought I would save some money by not having to spend 40$ on the Quark Mini AA. I was wrong. The first problem was the pocket clip. It was getting in the way of the headband's flashlight holder. The clip is screwed in by triangle screws. To get the clip off I had to buy the triangle screwdriver from Amazon. Then afterwards I found out even with the pocket clip off this flashlight is too thick for the Fenix Headband (if you take the pocket clip off there are 2 holes where the screws fit that expose the innards because the flashlight as a whole did not fit the Fenix Headband I have the clip back on I might look in to some small "O" ring for more water resistance). Even though it will not be useable for what I originally intended. I still like the light enough to use it as my EDC light.
TLDR: This light will not work in a Fenix Headband, otherwise great EDC.
Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
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Screwdrivers
You could also just buy stndard hex grub screws and replace the triangles.
Another option is to pick up these - :D
http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Triangle-Screwdriver/dp/B004IUEHYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417441458&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=triangle+bit
HERE
Please use the search function. Found this in 2 min. Not 4$ btw :D
Perhaps one of these might work.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004IUEHYS?qid=1417550431&amp;sr=8-1&amp;vs=1
Someone in one of the reviews said it works for the mxv2
Just so you guys know, this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IUEHYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) does NOT work. Someone suggested it in a thread for me; even the smallest screwdriver is too big.
You're right about the Kidney Puncher kit, but I'm not sure if OP knows. The Kidney Puncher kit comes with those screws as HEX screws, NOT the triangle screws, so it's much easier to find better tools to use on it. The triangle screws are the Mutation X v2's Achilles Heel, and I look forward to finally buying the Kidney Puncher kit.
It's actually this Megapro ratcheting 13-in-1 driver and, I feel like a right nerd for saying this, is legitimately my favorite screw driver I've ever owned.
If you're willing to carry a screwdriver, I carry this screwdriver in my backpack and it's seen me through many an impromptu repair.
What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?
Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?
What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?
How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?
If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.
I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.
I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.
You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.
Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.
To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.
As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).
As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).
You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.
You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.
A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.
Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.
It doesn’t use 1/4” bits, but it has onboard but storage... Megapro makes an excellent screwdriver that’s got a really great ratcheting action on it. The grip is also quite comfortable. Megapro is also the OEM of Channellock’s version which is very... Blue.
If you’re dead set on utilizing 1/4” bits, Rolgear makes a silent/smooth ratcheting driver that is a joy to use. My only gripe about it is that the handle is a bit small. There’s also a 6” version available that Reddit isn’t letting me link for some reason. Apart from the longer shaft, the grip is supposed to be more substantial. However, I can’t speak from experience as I don’t own it.
https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-211R1C36RD-1-Inch-Ratcheting-Automotive/dp/B004VJY1FQ
https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-211R2C36RD-13-Ratcheting-Driver/dp/B004VJY1EC
Wera tools are awesome. As aviation mechanic I use http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Kompakt-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B004VMWYCU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397926134&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Wera+ratchet+screwdriver every hour of my workday. The fact that it can carry other bits I need really comes in handy.
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Kompakt-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B004VMWYCU/ another great deal... scroll below for the other buying options. KK 27 RA is on sale for $28.96
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004VMWYCU/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the screwdriver
Leegoal T8 Tamper Proof Screwdriver Security Torx Driver for XBOX 360 Wired and Wireless Controller Or PS3 Slim Disassembly CR-V Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JY6hAbR89T4RM
And I can't find the joysticks.
those are actually a standard screw head. here's a much cheaper option for the security T8 http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Screwdriver-Security-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462761254&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=security+t8
No idea. I only know the terms T8 and T8 Security. The one with the hole in the tip is what you want.
This is perfect (see the picture)
http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393986996&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=t8+security
This is the one I bought.. (bad pic on this though)
http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL--Security-Screwdriver-Wireless-Controller/dp/B008YCEVII/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393986996&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=t8+security
I used a really small drill bit that could fit into the screws and was able to unscrew it easily. Then I took it apart and I looked at the analog sticks and how they were soldered. Drifting is due to the potentiometer thinking there was an input. So I just resoldered all of the potentiometer leads, put it back together and it works like a charm.
Didn't cost me a thing. However I did later on find the right type of screwdriver needed to remove the screws.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YUB6ZU?pc_redir=1409364451&amp;robot_redir=1
Amazon, iFixit, Sears, Walmart, and Canadian Tire (if you're up here).
I have the same issue and so do many others. It hasn't impacted game play but you are right, it is annoying. Is your console still under warranty or did you buy the extended one by chance? I have sent a couple of mine in when they got to the point where the joystick felt a little too loose for my liking and they sent me free replacements, no questions asked.
If not, there are several tutorials on Youtube that show you step-by-step how to open up the controller and fix the problem. You do need a special screwdriver, though. This is the one I bought to have on hand in case I ever needed it in the future. The description of the product says Xbox 360 but several people have mentioned in the product reviews that it works on the Xbox One as well.
Use this inexpensive tool to open it. Take it apart and clean it with warm water and soap. If your keys are sticking then maybe you can sand down the buttons just enough to where they no loner stick. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YUB6ZU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00
Good alternative to this is Tekton 135 piece set
Only downside in this set is that every bit is not magnetized and among this set, there're no triangle bits. Tekton put it in their other set, which you don't even need just for a triangle bit.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I noticed a glaring omission from your coffers.
Lineman's pliers, I'd recommend these Channellock's, or if you have a few dollars more their Code Blue line. They also have models with fishtape pullers if you need them.
Other things you could probably use are a good pair of wire nips. You won't find a better value than these Hakkos, A non-marring hammer/deadblow hammer is quite handy to have around. A pair of needlenose pliers. A variety of precision screwdrivers or an encompassing bit set, I like this Tekton Everybit set (confession, mine was a gift from Tekton rather recently but it is still an honest opinion)..
And where are your safety glasses, hmm?
BTW That is a nice selection of tools, this isn't really criticism, just trying to think of things you might find useful that you don't already have...
The hobbyking hexes work well enough on their own. I personally just have this kit, it seems to work for pretty much everything: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397017140&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=tekton
For a soldering iron, I'd get a Hakko 888 if you have enough money, or a hakko 936 clone if you do not.
All anti-vibration form is not the same. Some is better than others, but there are a lot of variables to take into account.
As for the oscilloscope, I'd say its pretty darn low on the list. A good scope is expensive (~>$300). They are quite easy to learn how to use, and can be quite useful, but I generally wouldn't purchase one if all you wanted to do is build a quadcopter or two.
I'm not a theif but I have an Every Bit Kit that has pretty much any bit I'd need to steal something.
If you want a bit type, id recommend starting with this 23 Pc Husky ratcheting precision set which covers every computer/laptop need I've run into. Or this TEKTON Everybit set.
For individual type I recommend the TEKTON Brand. Here is a set that has the PH0-PH2 like you need and some other flat heads. Torx Here, Nut Drivers Here. Though you can filter the nut drivers into SAE/Metric or buy by individual need.
If you really need/want magnetic tips, sub that screwdriver set i sent with something like this Cause magnetic tips are handy. Another brand I highly recommend is Milwaukee for both insulated and non-insulated drivers
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Everybit-Ratchet-Screwdriver/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458624425&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=security+bit+set
ive had this one for a while. its decent. the ratchet driver that comes with it is meh.
This Tekton set is my favorite and it's not too expensive and should cover at least all of your driver bit needs.
Buy quality.
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451918236&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=screwdriver+kit
+
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DS18DSAL-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B001N2NTEI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451918269&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=drill+driver+hitachi
If you buy a new screwdriver set, I recommend this one (American link, since I'm Canadian). It has everything that I've needed so far, plus more.
I have liked this Tekton 27 piece set for a while. I mostly like it because it comes with both size pentalobe bits, if you're doing any apple repair stuff. It comes as part of their 135 piece set too, which I think is a good deal. Reach isn't very long is the only real downside.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
Electricians daily toolkit:
Klein Pliers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000BYDNE?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=vrefid-20&amp;camp=1789&amp;creativeASIN=B0000BYDNE&amp;linkCode=xm2
Klein 11in1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015SBILG?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=vrefid-20&amp;camp=1789&amp;creativeASIN=B0015SBILG&amp;linkCode=xm2
Mine.
Have you tried a JIS driver?
Ive never had an issue with losing any of the bits, unless I forget to put them back in. The only other ones I can think of is a Wera Kompakt or a Crapsman Auto-Loader
I know exactly what you're talking about. I have one that's not craftsman but some other no name brand. It has a clear handle and red top and bottom. It took me a long time to find a similar replacement online.
The trick to finding them is to search for Auto Loading Screwdrivers. This ones seems similar.
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Auto-loading-Multi-bit-Screwdriver/dp/B00333Q27Q
To be honest though I don't think many manufacturers make them anymore and instead do just the multiple bits stored in the handle style.
For casual use I love the little clear handle autoloading driver. But over time I've become very accustomed to this guy as well. It's a standard, multiple bits in the handle kind, but with a really nice feeling ratcheting action. Its the same one that Snap-On rebrands.
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-WRS-1-Magnetic-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B002NI1LZK
I don't know the exact size or if it's even in THIS set, but that's what would work.