Best security & surveillance equipment according to redditors

Recommend this too. It's a doorstop that's loud as all hell. I mean like wake up everyone in the neighborhood loud. If they do get through...that'll wake you up and hopefully scare em off too.

Not legal advice, but since you said you have to be awake at night to make sure he doesn't hurt anyone, I would suggest getting these magnetic door alarms and put on his bedroom door to let you know if he leaves his room at night. If he's not allowed a bedroom door, then put them on your door & the other children's doors. They're cheap and yes they may wake the entire house up, but that's better than him skulking around with a knife or a lighter.

They also make wifi cameras that can send notifications to your phone when they sense motion or noise. Video footage may also be useful if he gets violent again or self-harms (self-endangering behavior can be common with RAD) and tries to make accusations against you.

It's ok. You woke up because your instincts told you something was up. That's the good thing here. The other good thing is that now you know she can unlock that stupid door, and that she will go outside. Now you can install and turn on these door chimes. Both of my kids escaped the house and were brought back by neighbors before they should have reasonably been able to unlock the damn door, and now we have these on every door AND one on the bathroom door so kiddo isn't getting in there at night either.

Additionally, I use a door monkey to lock him in his room at night and I have a vertical bar baby gate on his doorway since I'm paranoid. Little shit isn't getting out anymore.

You need to buy a GPS. Seriously. Or an Emergency Beacon

http://www.amazon.com/ACR-PLB-375-Personal-Locating-Beacon/dp/B005E1OU1A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1341933376&sr=8-7&keywords=emergency+beacon

install your own lock on the door, you don't need some asswipe lazy super to do it for you. also invest in a security camera system please

edit: jimmy-proof deadbolt or if you can't or don't want to modify the door, install one (or actually two, one on top and one on bottom) of these

You should also look into security alarms for your windows and doors, something like one of these. Or if you go through with the security system, you can get sensors that will let you know when doors are opened/closed.

People are psychopaths and can do really horrible things. People are also lazy (like your super or 311) and will only do as little as required. No one in this city will care about your security and well-being as much as you.

Keep this in mind. If somebody wants to get in, they'll get in. Any camera system you get will show the crime after the fact. Any possibility of capturing after the fact requires a lot of luck.

​

Ring requires hard wire for most homes. The power outlet kit works in some cases, just depends on how your apartment door and frame is set up. Keep in mind, people have been stealing Ring devices.

For inside your place, you don't need something expensive. This is a Wi-Fi camera with cloud backup and alerts.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_d2CXCbT3MN0BT

​

That being said, one of the best things is to deter the crime.

​

During the night: Get some Wi-Fi electrical plugs (or timed plugs) and have your lights go on at night. Use LED lights because they are super cheap in the long run. Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079Q5W22B/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_J0CXCbN51Q9GF

​

During the day: Have a super cheap compact FM radio that turns on when plugged in. Place it near the door just loud enough that somebody could hear it if they stood next to your door. This can give the illusion that somebody is home. Use Wi-Fi or timer electrical plugs.

​

If you have a patio slider, get an Anti-Lift lock bar, runs about $20 online.

​

You can get an electronic alarmed door stop to use while you are home. Again, without a strong door frame, doors can get kicked in pretty easily. It's not really about the lock itself, it's the door frame.

​

For valuables. Have an inconspicuous box or container to temporarily hide the goods.

For example: A jewelry box in zip lock bag in a cat litter box or empty bag of food product.

If you have checks, hide them too. Not in a mattress, drawer or closet shelf.

​

Finally, get Apartment Renter's insurance. Usually $10k will do well to cover lost electronics.

​

[edit: spelling]

You can get cheap 120-decibel, battery operated door alarms from Amazon.

Door alarm

This is a cheap, damageless and effective way to see if someone is coming into your apartment while you're in it (esp overnight).

It makes a horrific noise when someone opens the door. It won't work when you're out of your apartment, but it can be effective in scaring people away!

This might seem silly, but have you tried skypeing with your husband as you fall asleep? It might ease your mind being able to talk to and see your husband next to you as you're drifting off.


Edit: As for actually safety (as opposed to just feeling safer), I just saw this in another thread: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M

You might want to get something like this for his windows and house doors. It would also work for a classroom door.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-NINAbGD5JPBX

Most people do it just by personal preference/eye-balling or they use a custom ICC profile made from someone with the same monitor. This won't ever get the colors perfect, but it's plenty fine for the significant majority of users.

If you are a professional photographer/graphics-designer or just a high-end user and want as close to perfect as you can get, you will need to buy a monitor colorimeter or hire someone with one to calibrate it for you. This is sometimes offered for free with expensive television purchases from places like Best Buy.

Note this is still not the much request 3DoF mode when there is no visible light.

I use one of these with the Quest and Rift S for playing with the lights off

It’s not always the best strategy. this poor lady followed the ‘stay put’ advice and never moved for nearly a month while hiking the Appalachian trail, but ended up dying. She was one mile from the trail the whole time.

If you’re ever traveling somewhere and fear getting lost, it’d be a good idea to buy one of these GPS emergency beacon that can be located anywhere in the world.

Usually these kind of hairpins look like this.

The item in your photo looks like a lock picking tool.

If it were me, I'd put any valuables in a safe deposit box and carry some mace or other self defense items.

As another poster suggested, you can get inexpensive alarms for your doors and windows to use while you're at home.

Please stay safe. It may be a neighbor since they seem to know when you're out. There are ways to use an old cell phone as a security camera if you need an inexpensive alternative.

https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Doorbell-Nickel/dp/B00N2ZDXW2 Ring Doorbell, i pay a couple bucks a month to have all videos saved.

Check out the photos on the reviews. You can use the removable command adhesive strips to secure this to your door. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J5I5Bb7AM59KX

I used THIS, THIS and THIS to extend my Pimax. Works great, no problems.

I think it's easier to search for minor inconveniences and annoyances around your house, then search for ways to automate it away.

I gotta watch out with this site or I'll end up in the non-automated poorhouse, but it's awesome for product discovery
http://www.smarthomedb.com/products

Since you mentioned OpenHAB, the supported technologies list is a good place to start a wishlist too
http://www.openhab.org/features/supported-technologies.html

I'm using z-wave for most of my devices, so the product database is full of devices that are more likely to be compatible
https://github.com/openhab/openhab/blob/master/bundles/binding/org.openhab.binding.zwave/database/products.xml

This forum thread is also great for seeing what other people have gotten working
https://community.openhab.org/t/collection-of-working-z-wave-configs/1407

Personally, I've had great luck with these devices:

Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 Z-Wave Plus - ZW090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_cIbCwbYMNV0A4

2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CQ4V3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3IbCwbNFR9PQ6

MIMOLite - Z-wave Mulit-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uKbCwbF1ZBAXK

GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oLbCwbQCFR48K

GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p5bCwbRY8TXQ5

I have an old ADT installed Safewatch pro 3000 alarm, and this ties it into OpenHAB really nicely.
http://www.alarmdecoder.com/

I'm comfortable pulling wires through the walls, so I use one of these for TTS playback from my OpenHAB box:
Elk ELK-70 Echo Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XP1HZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kZbCwb799TN4C

Driven by one of these:
Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_X0bCwb7MYGM47

A few scenarios might help with inspiration.

I have a sensor on my garage entry door that kicks on the laundry room light when the door is opened so I never enter a dark house with my hands full.

If it's 00:00 - 06:00 and any perimeter sensors on the alarm are tripped, all outside and main level lights come on at full brightness

I have a sensor on my garage door to send me an alert if it has been open for more than 15 minutes, and a camera and a mimolite to close it remotely

My wife works nights so I have a mimolite to disable the upstairs doorbell while she's sleeping during the day. It sends our phones alerts if the doorbell is rung while silenced

Can you or her afford $30? Do you have wifi? If so, you can set up a camera in literally 5 minutes. We have 6 of these around our home inside and out. It's absolutely worth the security and sound of mind. PM me if you need any help or have any questions, I'd be glad to help.

https://www.amazon.com/YI-Security-Surveillance-Monitor-Android/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=yi+camera&qid=1562349080&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Not at all. Just get one of these [referral link] and calibrate it before every big project. You'll be fine.

Pretty much most custom setups here use the aeotec z-wave stick and either Open Hab or Home Assistant. Open Hab has a pretty new configuration UI but its not finished yet so there is still a far amount of not so trivial configuring that you have to do. Home assistant is just writing config files (YAML) but the documentation is amazing and its pretty easy if you are even remotely tech savvy. As stated already in the thread you do need a spare computer to essentially act as a hub.


I've been running this setup for almost a year (home assistant) and I haven't had any problems so far, its very stable.


Also you can give home assistant a shot before you switch as it supports the smart things hub!

What about a baby monitor camera with an app on the phone? This is ours - you pull up the app and see him in real time. Obviously not a permanent situation, but might be good for this learning phase to give him privacy but also give you peace of mind.

YI 1080p Home Camera, Indoor 2.4G IP Security Surveillance System with 24/7 Emergency Response, Night Vision for Home/Office/Baby/Nanny/Pet Monitor with iOS, Android App - Cloud Service Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wbuqDb9ET9QXN

This is terrible, and I'm so sorry you aren't being taken seriously.

You said you're in southern PA - try reaching out to the people at Laurel House. If you're not in the area they serve, they should be familiar with other regional resources and be able to refer you appropriately. They have a hotline number to call (1-800-642-3150), and I'm sure that they'll have advice and suggestions that we won't come up with.

I agree with the restraining order. Some thoughts off the top of my head about living alone:

1. Did he have a key to your place? Or access to your keys at any point where he could have made a copy (say, while he was bringing in your mail while you were out of town)? Change the locks.
   
   
2. Look into some kind of home security system. If you can't afford to go the ADT route, there are alternatives that may give you some peace of mind, like this door stop alarm. Check out what other home security options show up for windows, sliding glass doors, as they apply to your place. A motion sensor light may be helpful.
   
   
3. Ask your neighbors to take any alarms seriously!
   
   
4. Lock down your social media so that he can't find out where you are, what you're doing, and when you will or won't be home. If you're on Facebook and you have mutual friends, make sure you have everything set to "Friends only" - if you have it set to "Friends of Friends," any friend the two of you share can be his gateway into seeing your info. I believe you can flat out block certain members, too.
   
   
5. I know it's a PITA, but you could change cell phone numbers - although if he finds out your new number, you've done all that for nothing. As an alternative, I know that Verizon lets you block up to 5(ish) phone numbers for a few months for free. After a few months, you have to reblock them. There may be a paid service that lets you block them indefinitely. See if your provider has a similar service.
   
   But really, call that hotline I listed above, because I'm just spinning my wheels thinking of anything that could be useful and those people handle this stuff every day!
   
   edit: added the hotline # since it's not on the Laurel House main homepage.
   
   

here is the mount pack that I bought. I combined the pieces from both to create a single mount that would allow the sensor to sit higher up. You could make the vertical stalk even higher by taking another one of the sections out of the part coming out of the wall but I found that this setup works just fine. When touch releases and I get a second sensor I will probably return the configuration to two separate mounts and mount them in opposite corners of the room.

We recently got this doorbell / camera combo for under $200, and it can run on batteries and set up temporarily in a rental rather than being wired in like others.

It's wireless, so you can "answer" the door and talk to visitors via your cell phone if you're not home. You can also set it up to ping you when there's even movement outside your door, and you can startle people who didn't ring the bell, but are snooping around outside your door by talking to them too. The potential MIL fun to be had is endless.

I've already said to another redditor about getting a door stop alarm: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000YNR4M
They're a pretty cool invention that will at the very least alert you to an intruder, and most are able to stop the door from opening any further so it stops anyone getting in. It won't be as ideal seen as you have roommates but I guess you could agree that whoever is in last puts it at the door before going to bed? It's a step up from a lock, but not as costly or deadly as a gun?

Also a door alarm.

I don’t understand why you’d go through all the effort to build something that looks like trash. And spend more for it.

In addition to a nanny cam, put one of these on your door, so you’ll get woken up if you’re sleeping and there’s a break in: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=psdc_14241131_t5_B00IJJY1Q8

Also, it’ll probably cause the person to flee.

I use a Uniden BC125AT, others have mentioned it. I used it at the race track (Portland) with the stock antenna & the Koss QZ99 others have also mentioned.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000051SD1

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-BC125AT-Alpha-Tagged-channels-Lightweight/dp/B00772MR0K

I program the known scanner frequencies before I head to the racetrack from the spotter guide, using the free software scan125. (PC only unfortunately, I used parallels on my mac to get it to run.)

From what I can tell, the driver coms, race control & indycar radio network don't change much during a season.

The same is not true for tv, at least in my first two years of scanning the races. I use the racing scan mode to figure out the tv broadcast frequencies, there will be one "clear one" and the the others you find will be interrupted with comments such as camera direction, etc. With NBCGold this year, I was able to easily lock down the good frequency the first practice session to listen to the tv broadcast.

Indylights used the same frequencies as the main event, (TV/radio/race control) They had other frequencies for the drivers, but I didn't investigate if a list was available online somewhere. Other series I couldn't find any coms, but they may have not had radios.

I have some other thoughts. If you share the scanner with two people, you may find the volume is too low. I purchased an amplified splitter, but didn't need at the racetrack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EIWCFE

I would go with the 125 vs the cheaper model, due to being able to set an alphanumeric id instead of only looking at a frequency number on the scanner channel.

Like i mentioned before, I preprogrammed what I could before I arrived at the track on Friday, I then programmed the tv stations at the track, but it is a pain to label everything and get a logical order into the scanner banks that way. When I got home the first day I was able to use the scan125 software to "clean up" the order and get everything labeled properly, to make it easy to switch from tv/radio/pa & race control as I cared to.

I put a fresh set of AA batteries in the start of the weekend, and replaced the batteries again before the main race. I would carry at least 4 AA batteries to the track each day, just in case.

Aeotec Multisensor 6, Z-Wave Plus 6-in1 motion, temperature, humidity, light, UV, vibration sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vOgPDb5QQA5FZ

Absolutely love my Yi Home cams. I recently got one of their outdoor cams for my porch instead of a doorbell cam. They also make panning dome cams.

They have all the features of a Nest cam, with a fraction of the price and a SD card slot. They even look like they are Nest hardware in a slightly different shell.

You need to calibrate your monitor and make sure you're exporting your image files according to the lab's specifications. Make sure to also tell them you don't want any additional corrections applied to your images before printing.

You'll need a tool like this one to calibrate your display and the calibration needs to be redone every few months.

best Zwave motion sensor. Hands down! Has pet immunity for 25lbs and up dogs or the option to change it to 55lb and up. Very accurate and range is the best from all zwave motion sensors

For her, her favorite stuffed toy from Grandma.

For us, these. It makes use feel better to know she can't get out of the house without us knowing.

This has happened to me too. I'm so sorry you're going through this, it's so hard afterwards to calm yourself down. Can I please recommend you get some door alarms and put them on the exterior doors? They're loud but very effective. We have one for each door in and out, and we also used one on the bathroom when he was obsessed with putting toys in the toilet for a while. Right now my older son has one on his door when he's not in his bedroom to deter his younger brother from trying to steal his shit. Very handy!

Caught my stepson sneaking out at age 15. We went on full lock down mode, bought these alarms for the doors.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00178HMCI?keywords=door%20alarm&qid=1450789802&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

Then we screwed his windows shut, because we caught him going out the window. That all worked. We had a helluva time with him, and although he is 19 now, I can't say it's worked out right. We did the best we could as parents. We did drug testing, too. I hate to say it, but you have to figure hormones are coming into play, so maybe a "check up" by the doctor is in order.

power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D

Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z

HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black

I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.

Here's the items I purchased to extend the headset 10 feet.

Power cable- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ517VI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also went with a 1/2" braided sleeve to hold them all together. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZATN3WI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Edit: Including like where I got my info originally. https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4eiqda/10ft_extension_cables_after_the_breakout_box/?sort=confidence

Ok cool. I'll try and find one on Amazon and do some tests.

Edit : Just ordered one of these to try

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYG89D/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is a good idea. I had to kinda of wing it based on amazon purchase histories of other users (and their reviews)

Here is what I used if anyone is curious

https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/

It came with 3 mollys and 3 screws for each one. Oculus sensor cameras are so light weight I did not bother using the mollys. I just used screws only (more than enough grip in drywall for our light weight cams)

> do you guys think the AW will go any lower than 849.99 (price on microcenter)?

Watch /r/buildapcsales. This monitor gets posted almost weekly. $849.99 is fairly common, but we've seen a few posts in the last month or so where it's gone a little lower. Here's a few recent but expired examples:

• [$799.99 2 weeks ago via Newegg] (https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/9thwf2/monitor_dell_alienware_aw3418dw_34_curved_1440p/)
  
• [$799 3 weeks ago via Google Express] (https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/9rq1uq/monitor_alienware_aw3418dw_799_20_off_with_coupon/)
  
• [$829 about a month ago via Amazon] (https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/9jjqco/monitor_dell_alienware_aw3418dw_829_25_3440x1440p/)
  
• [$829 about a month ago via Best Buy] (https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/9jb39z/monitor_aw3418dw_829_bestbuy/)
  
  I personally think that Black Friday through Cyber Monday will see this thing hit $799 again, possibly $779 for a new record low. Here's hoping!
  
  Dell online will also price match most national retailers and etailers. I got Dell to price match Microcenter since there is no MC near me (I think they sold it online too, but Dell's online returns are as easy as Amazon).
  
  > , but wondering if colorimeters usually go on sale— especially with Black friday coming up
  
  Prices fluctuate, but I haven't noticed any big sales recently. As per my other post, here's the 3 to watch out for and their current Amazon prices.
  
  
• [Datacolor Spyder5EXPRESS - $129.00] (https://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Designed-Hobbyist-Photographers/dp/B00UBSL2TO)
  
• [X-Rite ColorMunki Display - $151.92] (https://smile.amazon.com/X-Rite-ColorMunki-CMUNDIS-Accuracy-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOM)
  
• [X-Rite i1Display Pro - $244.77] (https://smile.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW)
  
  Checking CCC for the price history on those, here's what I'm seeing.
  
  
• The Spyder hit $79.99 last black Friday, and again around Christmas. It typically goes for $120-$130. The current price is near the high. I'd wait.
  
• The ColorMunki hit $89.95 around the holidays last year, and typically goes for $150-$170. Aside from those big sales, the current price is fairly decent.
  
• The i1Display Pro hit $159 during the holidays last year. It typically goes for $205-$260, and the current price is near the high end.
  
  If you have to buy today, the ColorMunki is the best value when compared to the other options, and compared to historical prices. If you can wait until the holidays, they all should hit some fairly low prices. I'd still recommend the ColorMunki as I feel it's the best consumer home-use colorimeter, but some like to splurge for the i1DisplayPro as it's a better long term option for multi-device calibration due to the better build quality, durability, and faster sensor.

It's actually fairly simple. You need a calibration device (i've heard good things about this or this , I personally use one of a firm that no longer exists on monitors which probably don't even deserve calibration) and software which can talk to it. Most software is pretty self-explanatory and generates a color profile for your monitor, usually in an .icc file. You can then hand this .icc file to your operating system configuration. If your postprocess stack is color managed, you should then get reproducable colors. There are a lot more subtilities like colorimeter ($) vs spectrometer ($$$) and such.

More than just temp and humidity, so might be overkill for you, but I have one of these that I really love:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_sc_1

Not only is it battery powered, but it comes with a usb cable so you can plug it in if you are close to an outlet

Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151Z8ZQY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XD8WZX6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX9P89Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519912082&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vera+plus+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=31jWnlwJITL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZU69DU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

Here is a smart wifi connected camera (with movement notifications/cloud recording/2 way voice chat etc) for only $30US

Might make you feel bit safer, and guarantee evidence if it happens again.

Product information: https://www.yitechnology.com/yi-1080p-home-camera

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/YI-Security-Surveillance-Monitor-Android/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535562853&sr=1-5&keywords=yi+1080p+security&dpID=31IWy7IjmNL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I second getting some webcams. I purchased Yi Home Cams from Amazon and they have been great. It sends an alert to my phone when it detects motion, along with a 6 second clip uploaded to the cloud (for free). You can also subscribe to their enhanced cloud service which will send all recorded video up to their cloud servers.

My cousin bought a Blink camera and mounted it in an unreachable location on the exterior of his house. Although pricier than the Yi, it runs on batteries so no need to worry about running power - the battery supposedly lasts up to 2 years. Like the Yi, it captures video and sends an alert to your phone when it detects motion.

Of course with both, you will need an active internet connection with wifi.

I second this, there are many cameras, but theres this one thats under 30 buckaroonies

Overall a really great product for $15. Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft for anyone interested 👍 also sorry about the wind and poor audio!

Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Anti-Theft-Vibration-Motorcycle-Waterproof/dp/B0734QN8KR

In addition to disc locks, handlebar lock, and chaining it to something fixed. Just have to be a hard enough target that it's no longer worth it to steal when easier targets exist for them.

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M

I'm in a dorm room so we have plenty of command hooks and velcro strips from this company. They work really well so far and I have some velcro strips left over so what I was planning to do was order these and attach them with the strips. Should work fine.

I would suggest talking to the cops if he’s showing up at your house. One instance won’t be enough for a restraining order but every bit of evidence helps. You can buy alarms that attach to windows and doors that will go off if it’s opened for about $10

The most important things to carry are things that will keep you alive. WATER is the most important. You can live without food for weeks, you can't live without water for more than a few days. Don't eat anything you aren't sure of (being sick is worse than being hungry) and don't eat if you don't have lots of water (digestion uses up water). Next is clothing- carry a spare jacket or snowpants in your car and a good set of gloves. You may be dressed comfortably for inside or in a heated car, but that will be a problem if you lose your engine in the middle of nowhere at night. From there you might consider a sleeping bag to keep you warm at night.
After that- LIGHT. If you are stuck somewhere at night, you will need as much light as you can get. Carry multiple flashlights, ideally one of which is a headlamp and one of which is indestructible, and carry spare batteries for each one. Chem-lights (Cyalume sticks) are also good to have but should be a backup to a real flashlight.

From there you might consider survival supplies- high calorie foodpacks, flares, signaling supplies, reflectors, fire starting equipment, knives, tools, etc. A simple Leatherman or Swiss Army Knife can be a big help in such a situation.

Carry some jumper cables and a pad of steel wool. Jumper cables have an obvious use (starting the car) and a few non-obvious uses (as rope or tools), but if you need to start a fire, use the jumper cables on the steel wool (few seconds at a time at most) and it will glow red hot.

Also, one of the simplest, stupidest things to carry is a cell phone charger. If you get stuck somewhere your cell phone could be out of juice even though your car battery has plenty of power. Don't get stuck by such a stupid problem.


If you're in backcountry places or go there during the winter (skiing etc) have at least one means to call for help that isn't a cell phone.

I heard about an accident that happened a few years back, a guy goes off the road during a snowstorm and his car disappears into the woods. Snowplow plows over the tracks so nobody can see where he went off the road, and he's pinned inside his car and can't move much. He sat there for almost 2 days before a passing trucker heard about the missing vehicle and happened to catch a glint of twilight off his side view mirror. If not for that, nobody'd have found him until spring, but he got lucky and was rescued.

The cell phone wasn't usable for this guy (either it was damaged in the crash or it had no service), if he'd had some other way of calling for help he'd have been rescued much sooner.

Your best bet is a 406MHz PLB, which is a satellite homing beacon (many models exist, some float and/or have a display). These cost a few hundred bucks, but have no subscription fees. (ACR offers an optional subscription service, but you don't need it). The battery is sealed in the unit and has to be serviced every few years, but you know it'll work because it has no useful function other than to call for help.

The cheap version of that is the Spot Satellite Messenger, which does much the same thing just with a less powerful radio and a commercial satellite phone network. Not quite as reliable as a real PLB, and needs a yearly subscription fee, but has other functions (you can have it check in every 15min and show your course on a map, or a newer one can be used to update your Facebook status, ugh). Spot takes AAA or AA batteries, so carry spares. Spot makes a few versions of this, and there's now a variant from DeLorme that works with Android phones.

You should also consider a good set of two way radios. Ignore the '50 mile range' type crap, its all bullshit (the ones linked above have better range than most with a full 5watt transmitter, but it's no 50 miles). Leave these in the charger, and leave the charger plugged into your car's trunk outlet. If you are doing a multi-car trip, put one in each car- that way if there's a problem you can easily signal the other car (if there's no cell service, you might run into a situation where one car has a problem and the other car doesn't see them stop for a while). They're also a lot of fun on road trips and great for skiing. The units linked above can also run on AA batteries instead of the rechargeable pack, so keep spare batteries around.

You might also look into CB Radios (many models available). A CB is usually mobile, not portable (ie it plugs into lighter socket with antenna on the roof) but CBs have the advantage that all the truckers use CB radios. Truckers will tell you about road hazards like accidents, dangerous conditions, and speed traps; and will often have different routes to suggest. Be warned that truckers have their own CB lingo so it takes some practice to figure them out.

Uniden BC75XLT: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1VSO9M/

I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...

HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG

USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS

DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB

1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX

Ah thanks. This product? https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2

It's not even discrete. I mean, it looks obvious there's a lens. I'm shocked this person didn't even realize there's a camera staring her in the face.

You are correct to be paranoid, but thats just a natural reaction. Increase your security, and the paranoia should subside.

Some ways to beef up your urban living security situation

• Get a dog. Best. Security. Ever.
  
• Add a little security tech to your pad. Doesn't matter how broke you are, you can afford a $12 Door Stop Alarm. You could also splurge $40 on a motion detector that will email you when the door is opened.
  
• Get some creepy security alarm stickers for the windows. You make think that is ridiculous, but its cheap, easy, and makes you at least a slightly less attractive target.
  
• Lock your doors

This is the mount. I just used the screws that came with them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can install certain alarms with double stick tape anywhere.

I like the ideas of a magnetic chime or alarm. It can alert you (and warn/scare the kid) that the door was opened but it doesn't prevent a door being opened in an emergency. These look good:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00178HMCI/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=3D99YYX2I5XKO&coliid=I2N7YRVEDBQRS0&vs=1

On the subject of kids escaping...anyone have a solution to for crank windows? I took the crank off so they technically can't "open it" but they can "unlock" the window. It has a stop built in so you can't just open the window without the crank (like if you unlocked it and pushed on the window itself, it doesn't open) but I don't really trust it in their second story bedrooms and I'm scared if they push hard on the window it will open and they can fall out. But I haven't ever seen locks for these types of windows. Anyone?

I use thumb tacks (they actually hold really well) cause I don't want to put holes in my walls either. This is the one I got. I took out all of the extension pieces.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

haha... I bought these 2 for $15. Mounted them last night, they work PERFECTLY.

Hi! Welcome to the expensive, frustrating and exciting world of home automation!

You will find people using all sorts of things for switches, from arduinos shoved behind a wall plate, to multi-hundred dollar crestron panels.

I would suggest diving into the world of z-wave for this particular niche. I did a lot of research on this subject, and I think it will best accomplish your goal. GE makes a line of z-wave switches. They aren't cheap, but they work really well with home assistant. I would check those out! Feel free to PM me or reply below with any other questions.

Good luck!!

Edit: You might also want to check out something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU

Yeah, I read your other link. She was an experienced through-hiker, so she had to have probably had the Ten Essentials, including map and compass? A little GPS like I linked weighs about 5 oz. Through hikers are famous for stripping their gear down gram by gram. Probably couldn't justify the weight even if it was about equal to her cell phone, which she did have.

Well-monied but weight-conscious through hikers should probably start leaving their cell phones at home, in favor of something like an inReach to stay in touch with family back home. 6.7 oz. That's what the local Forest Service volunteer society here recommends. I have a PLB, but they told us those are less useful to SAR because you can't tell them whether you have a broken leg or hypothermia or heart attack etc., just "here I am, help!"

I carry an ACR ResQLink PLB with me when I go wilderness camping (solo) in case anything happens. When you get the device, you register its serial number and attach some contact info so if you ever need to use it, they know who needs help. In an emergency, you pop up an antenna, give it line of sight to the sky, and activate it. It'll alert search and rescue and also act as a beacon for search crews who respond to the general area to locate you quicker.

I prefer this type of thing to the alternatives because I don't want to have to actively let people know I'm okay rather than actively requesting help. There's the off chance that something so bad could happen that I'd be unable to activate the unit, but I leave detailed plans with people before I leave as a backup safety plan.

Like you noted, there's no subscription plan, but the battery isn't user serviceable. I've read that you can send it in at the end of its life and pay for a replacement battery to be installed, but mine hasn't reached the end of its life yet so I haven't had to do this.

Also, consider where you carry something like this. I keep mine in a little scout bag (Arc'teryx Maka 2) when backpacking so if I ever ended up separated from my backpack in a river-crossing-gone-wrong or similar event, I'd have the PLB on me still.

[Yes.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00772MR0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xFBXAb36JX3WZ) They get more expensive if you want more programming features.

If you are planning to attend races even semi regularly, consider buying a scanner and programming it yourself. I now own a BC125AT for $93. Works flawlessly.

Any scanner will do this. You can get a decent one for under a hundred bucks.

Here's a good one

My area is up two 4-6 hour wait times for assault and about 30 minute - 1 hour wait times for armed robbery.

Useful skills/Tips for Public Safety.

• Get First Aid Training,Basic Life Support,CPR and AED-Defibrillator Training.
  
  
• Learn to use Naloxone, You might find yourself in a situation where you may have to administer the drug to someone that potential overdosed.
  
  
• Get a Public Safety Scanner or Police Scanner.
  
  
• Keep a EMS grade/large first aid kit in your vehicle/home.
  
  
• Keep a safety helmet or hard hat in your vehicle/home.
  
  
• Keep a seat-belt cutter on your person/vehicle.
  
  
• Help clean up your local parks or recreational areas with a sharps container.
  
  Feel free to add to this list. :)

A simple radio scanner would be your best option. SDR is a bit advanced for just getting started.

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-BC75XLT-300-Channel-Handheld-Emergency/dp/B00A1VSO9M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540419650&sr=8-2&keywords=race+scanner

A google search for your local airports frequencies will give you what you need to program into the scanner.

I've always loved aviation, airports, airport operations and all that. So many cool things going on.

This was taken to the next level as I started taking pilot lessons. Man nothing and I do mean nothing instills that sense of freedom better than climbing into a small airplane and taking off. You quite literally feel that there is no place you can't go. So awesome.

We have a small airport in OKC that actually has a restaurant that overlooks the runway. You can watch all kinds of small and medium sized aircraft take off and land. It's so cool.

Also if you're into plane watching, you should look into buying a small hand held scanner and look for your airport's frequencies. It's quite interesting even if it takes awhile to understand what they're saying.

Yep. one more sensor is a must have. Also get three of these wall mounts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I tried going with 8 foot tripods for a while but you'll want as much floor space to walk around in as possible

I'm not colorblind but I can't really do it by eye myself.
I use a Spyder 5 Express, which is pretty easy to use.
amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q - this is the one you want, the Pro

The Spyder5Express won't work with dual monitors.

Z-wave is a wireless technology. You will need something that speaks that technology to control the devices. I have one of these: Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5, Z-Wave Plus USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ plugged in to my pi3 running home-assistant. Works great.

HomeAssistant. You can even use your Smartthings hub to connect to your devices, but control everything through HomeAssistant without the flakiness.

A Raspberry Pi 3 is all you need.

However, if you need to throw your Smartthings hub in the trash and want everything local, you can buy this dongle for the Pi.

HomeAssistant is much more user friendly than OpenHAB, has phenomenal community support, and development is fast with improvements coming out on a very regular basis.

I think you'd get the most bang for your buck sticking with Z-wave. You don't even need to get the SmartThings hub. I use an Aeotec Z-wave stick plugged into the raspberry pi running HASS. If you are using the Hassbian image, they even have a script that will install open-zwave for you.

Turn on the emulated hue component and Google home should see everything. If you want to rename devices (you probably will), then use open-zwave-control-panel.

Most of this does require more effort than the hubs you mentioned. It's a trade off of time and effort vs cost.

Aeotec Z-wave Stick
HASS Z-wave Getting Started
open-zwave-control-panel guide

The OpenHAB wiki is pretty explicit that you need a Hue Hub to talk to Hue bulbs. Incidentally, OpenHAB talks to the Hue Hub via HTTP.

A lot of people who use Zwave and OpenHAB use the Aeotec USB Zstick, but there are other supported options, listed on OpenHAB's wiki.

I have recently gone down the road of automating my home. Here are some of my thoughts:

1. Try not to lock yourself into an eco-system.
   
2. Google Home and Amazon Echo have similar capabilities, if you already have an Amazon, echo and if you like it go with more Alexa devices. As /u/TwiceBakedTomato already mentioned, Google Home or Amazon Alexa are only going to be voice-control part of your home automation. Also, if you already have a pixel phone, you can check out google's home skills, by using the google assistant.
   
3. Do not overlook Zwave. You can get a USB Zwave hub like this, and you won't have a bunch of bulbs and switches crowding your wifi network.
   
4. Check out Home Assistant. It is not really a works out-of-the-box solution (I can't speak for hass.io), but it is not hard to setup and has a lot of resources online. The possibilities with it are quite endless. The kind of automations you can have are only limited by the inputs/components you have configured and your imagination :)
   You can check all the components Home Assistant supports here. I have it configured with my TP-Link bulbs, switches, LIFX Bulbs, ZWave sensors, Zwave switches, Schalge Smart Lock, Roomba, NAS, Nest Cameras, Thermostat, etc...
   
5. For the doorbell, I would suggest going with the Nest Doorbell, Keep in mind there is an extra $50/yr (or $30/yr for each extra Nest cam) for Nest to save 24x7 video feed. It has however performed better than my older Ring doorbell which kept failing. Make sure your apartment doorbell is wired.
   
6. If you are getting more cameras, there are 2 options, going for a solution like Nest or Arlo, where the video feed storage, notification, etc is all handled by an external company; or getting cheaper IP/ONVIF Cameras and using your own surveillance/storage solution. I personally have a mix of both. I have a few nest cameras and a few cheaper IP cameras that record to my NAS. This gives me the peace of mind that in case someone breaks into my home and steals my NAS as well, I can still depend on Nest to have the break-in recorded and stored on their servers. I can also see the feed from all my cameras in a single place in Home Assistant.
   
   
   Miscellaneous thoughts:
   
   
7. Replacing wall switches are really easy, so don't restrict yourself to using only smart plugs. Just keep the older switches and put them back when you're moving out of your rental. (Obviously take appropriate safety precautions when working with live electric wires). They are also better when you have a multi-bulb lamp (like a chandelier), instead of getting 3-5 smart bulbs to make the chandelier smart, you can just get a single smart-switch which controls it.
   
8. Look into a smart lock, they are easy to install and are great! I currently have this one.
   
9. You can setup Home Assistant in something as small as a raspberry pi. Or if you have a older laptop lying around you can easily install Home Assistant, an MQTT server, Grafana, etc on docker containers on the same system
   
10. If you like DIY stuff, instead of getting a $35-$60 multi sensor like this, you can easily put together one with a ESP8266 and sensors which would cost about $8-$10 in total.
    
11. Make sure you set a budget. It's very easy to start buying stuff and a lot of approx. $30 stuff will add up quickly :)
    
    Hope this wall of text helps you. Happy Automating!
    
    e: spelling

Don’t use GPS but I have this little alarm deal that goes off when the bike is moved


Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft Vibration Motorcycle Bicycle Alarm Waterproof Security Cycling Bike Alarm with Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_98a3Db248S4XR

I will be trying out this $19 illuminator instead. Same company, but smaller version, so wasting less electricity. Coverage should be more than enough for any VR play-space.

I had it at roughly 4 ft off the ground aimed parallel to the ground this seemed to give the best result.

I wanted to give some information on my testing using IR transmitters to create a play space. I bought the "80ft" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYG89D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 transmitter and attempted to use it to create a full size 25x25 foot play space.

It will let you do that you can get a full 25x25 foot play space however it's only front facing. The issue is when you turn your back to the transmitter it doesn't see enough to continue tracking and will drop you out of the experience you are in. If you limit yourself to about 10x10 feet then you can get 360 degree tracking (as it can see enough when you back is turned to keep tracking). It seems like I might be able to grab some spare cellphone flashes on the back side to get a full 25x25 foot play space. It seems reasonable that the "200ft" transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0771HSGH4/ref=emc_b_5_i should be able to give you a full 25x25 foot 360 degree playspace.

Manufacturer claims like '1 billion colours' are complete shit.

Two things matter for colour. Your spectrum coverage and your deltaE value. There are different spectrum's that manufacturers like to use, some less relevant than others.

http://www.displaymate.com/Display_Color_Gamuts_1.htm

NTSC for example is of no real value. sRGB or Rec.709 is the normal standard for colour display. DCI-P3 is a stepping stone, being 26% larger than sRGB. Rec.2020 is the next gen standard, being 72% larger than sRGB.

DeltaE is the human perception of colour differences. A larger value means the difference is more distinguishable, an average DeltaE of 1 is considered the minimum a human can notice. Any display with a value of 2 or under is considered good, although professional calibrated displays should easily be under 1.

http://www.colorwiki.com/wiki/Delta_E:_The_Color_Difference

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/calibrating.htm

You can have a wide colour spectrum, but somewhat poor accuracy despite that. If you buy an expensive monitor, I recommend renting or buying a calibration unit to achieve the best possible results.

https://www.amazon.ca/Datacolor-S5P100-Spyder5PRO-Colorimeter-Black/dp/B00UBSL31Q

Avoid the cheapest calibration units, as they tend to lack features such as room lighting monitoring.

The problem is who has another 100$ to spend on a color calibrator?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UBSL31Q

Well a company that does photography does sure or someone willing to spend near a thousand dollars on a monitor does sure. Some youtube reviewer sure!

But someone who is going to buy say a 500$ gaming screen? I don't think so.

I would get an Aeon Z-Stick Gen5. I have one and it works (so far) i got a few devices connect. So far so good.

They are fairly low cost, and support ZWave Plus (I have a few sensors that are zwave plus).

Note it is the WHITE ONE. The black ones are the S2, they work great as well. But no zwave plus support, spend the extra 4-5$ for the current gen.

You could do things like you're planning but I would add in a water-valve to cut the water in addition to the power (you want to cut both so the washer doesn't run while it's dry). I would also use Home Assistant instead of IFTTT, since it will be faster and won't rely on your internet being up to work. If you go with ZWave device, you'll need some kind of hub, which Home Assistant can act as (with a ZWave USB stick).

However, unless you want to tie this particular issue into a large home automation system (getting text messages when the leak sensor is triggered for example), you might be better off with something like this, which is an all-in-one system for exactly your use-case: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Detector-Shut-Off-Stopping-Detection/dp/B0742N3KHF/

Personally, I'd go with that kit, otherwise you're looking at:

• $60+ - Raspberry Pi for Home Assistant
  
• $45 - ZWave USB Stick
  
• $100 - ZWave Water Valve
  
• $90 - ZWave Heavy Duty Switch
  
• $30+ - ZWave Water Sensor
  
  That's already 3x the cost of the kit, not including your time to learn what you need to in order to get HA running & doing what you want it to.

If you like to tinker, you could potentially get a cheaper hub by creating your own with Home Assistant. I'm running it on a spare PC, though it would probably work on a Raspberry Pi 3 just fine.

There are two potential downsides though:

1. It's not as plug-and-play as ST. Be prepared to spend time customizing, maintaining, and tinkering with things.
   
2. You'll need a USB dongle for Z-Wave connectivity. My recommendation would be the ZW090 Z-Stick.
   
   If you're not interested in that, I think ST would be a great choice.

/thread I have a this guy which works great, but they are all (more or less) the same: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E

I use OpenHAB with an Aeotec dongle. They work great together and require no access to the Internet. Run it on a Raspberry Pi with a USB Power Bank for handling power outages.

This works well for me. Installed under seat.

Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

One of those $15 motorcycle alarms from Amazon could help. They're pretty nifty.

These

Get an IR light and you can play at night. Something like this.

I bought one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYG89D for $20.

It works pretty well.

Sounds like you've done everything I would think to do in this situation. Your mother (and perhaps, you) may have lost the sense of security inside her own home at this point, so caring for that aspect will be important. If you'd like, I'd be willing to purchase some anti-theft items for your home to relieve just a bit of that stress. Some things I found on Amazon with Prime shipping and decent reviews are Addalock, Door Jammer, and Door Stop Alarm. The last one might quickly become a nuisance from false triggers or if people in your household go in and out of your home at random hours. PM me your mailing address if you'd like me to send any of these to you.

These are the ones I used, I broke them down to the shortest configuration that I could to make it a cleaner look.

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4

Guys... 2 for $13 from amazon, that are adjustable in length.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

List of components:

• Adjustable/reversible Neoprene Cable Sleeve
  
  
• Wiremold Cordmate Kit
  
  
• Ceiling Mounts for a Camera
  
  
• Various USB Extenders (advice: when in doubt get the long ones. I had to double up on extenders because I thought I knew better than to take measurements)
  
  

I looked into those and may invest in one soon. However, they have drawbacks (namely it is impossible to communicate anything besides "HELP COME GET ME"). I'd like to have some other options for communication.

In case anyone comes searching in the future locators don't necessarily require a monthly fee. Seems like the most common solution is a unit by ACR, "ResQlink." (The "plus" version is floating; in other regards AFAIK they are identical.) These seem to be the power player in the PLB (personal locator beacon) market. There are other solutions for maritime use etc.; Wikipedia has good info.

Was once lost in the backcountry (poor planning, stupid mistake). Used a cell phone to let others know "hey, I'm lost, here's about where I am, I can keep walking, but wanted to advise someone of my predicament." A radio would allow me to do the same if I am ever in a similarly bad position. Given what I've learned from other commenters here, it seems like the most foolproof combo would be a combo of a VHF/UHF handheld and a PLB for worst-case scenarios.

Thank you for the thoughts!

Na but this can at less than half the price. https://www.amazon.com/ACR-ResQlink-Non-Buoyant-PLB-Registration/dp/B005E1OU1A

Also having a radio and alerting park rangers of your plan and knowing their freqs can be helpfull. Most importantly simply not getting into dangerous situations is the best defense

While there are online resources for listening to police radio frequencies, you can pick up public safety wideband scanners for pretty cheap, and if you flip through your local channels when you hear the helicopter or sirens, you can usually get the scoop before the media finds out.

http://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Bearcat-Channel-Numeric-BC125AT/dp/B00772MR0K/

The Uniden and RadioShack Branded PRO model scanners can be fetched on Ebay for cheap as well.

Here are your local frequencies:

http://www.radioreference.com/apps/db/?ctid=225

It comes with two sensors.

Another post said Best Buy online has the single sensor, and you also may be able to buy it direct from Oculus (https://www.oculus.com/accessories/).

Don't wait to play roomscale games until you get a third sensor though. Two work surprisingly well, especially if you mount them high (ceiling or wall) and point them down. I used this one with Command strips to stick it to the wall without drilling holes.

Have fun!

There are products like this, but the reviews show people having a good amount of success as well as people who say it doesn't work.

Also, there are things like this, where it will merely alert you to your door opening.

You could absolutely get away with mounting it on a shelf. I just didn't like that option because the sides of my cabinet blocked some of the field of vision. I used something similar to this rigging up a rare earth magnet and using the old metal plate from the V2. What I used was not the exact model that I linked, so I'm not recommending that one by any means. I took to ebay and found something like that from China for cheap. I think it cost me about $10 for the magnet and mount, so it wasn't bad. Just want to give you an idea of some of the options that you could come up with if the other mounting options don't work well for you.

She could try alarms on his bedroom door and would know immediately if he got out of his room.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Protection-Installation-Apartment-45115/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510192745&sr=8-3&keywords=door+alarm&dpID=41TKiINpXOL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

He also needs consequences for his actions.

This is horrific, I'm so sorry you have to deal with this. My first thought is very basic, those little door sensors that make a ton of noise when the door is opened.

Something like this

They're not fancy, but would probably be a good solution to scare somebody off until you figure out something more permanent.

Edit: fucking hyperlink, Jesus.

I had never lived alone either, I went straight from my mum's to a friends and then in with my STBX. I was in the house for a couple weeks on my own and now in my own apartment since the beginning of this month. I am a very anxious person. I'm also very paranoid. I got an apartment with a garage. It was more expensive and obviously not possible everywhere, but something like that made me feel safe. A few other things I did: got a taser, got an addalock, got an alarm system (simpli safe, it includes a panic button next to my bed), got a baseball bat and got these two little cheap alarms off amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/GE-Protection-Installation-Apartment-45115/dp/B00178HMCI ) that I turn on at night so if anyone opens my doors I can hear them. Don't know what I will do if I hear it, grab the baseball bat and hide in the bathroom?

I have 2 cats, they are pretty good about looking up if they hear a noise, but the fridge spooks them, so, I don't rely on them. A lot of people suggested a dog, but I'm only allowed 2 pets and my cats would likely murder me. I keep the light above the oven on all night, it's enough light so I can see out my bedroom doorway at night. I don't know when I became afraid of the dark, but there you go. Hopefully I'll get over it.

Before I moved out, I read a lot of articles about women living alone. Everything said get a dog, make friends with your neighbours (they'll notice if something odd happens or if they hear anything), don't do anything stupid, like be alone with delivery men or share a bunch on social media about where you live. I've posted things about living alone, but nothing really outside or local where people could figure out what apartment complex I'm at. not that I think they would, but like I said, I am an anxious and paranoid person.

I'm an introvert, but my love language is quality time lol... so I get lonely very easily. I've had people over, even to just watch a movie, or I go out to Target because it's a few mins away and I just wander the aisles. I've watched more TV than I used to and I do spend a bit more time on reddit. I'm sure I'll get used to being alone soon, but it's hard to adjust. This might seem silly because it doesn't directly have to do with loneliness or anxiety, but focusing on all the advantages of living alone helps as well - like I can buy certain foods without worrying someone will eat them all in one sitting! I can have my music on without annoying anyone watching football... hey, football never has to be on in my home again! I can leave a light on without anyone coming behind me and switching it off. I can have chips and dip for dinner. I can watch dorky cheesy movies without listening to someone's commentary on how dorky and cheesy the movie is. Reminding myself of all those silly little things chips away at the loneliness, which makes me feel more comfortable which makes me less anxious.

So, long story long, for my anxiety, the alarm system helps make me feel safe and I appreciate having the light on in the kitchen overnight. Find those things for you, and do them, regardless of how silly they might make you feel. Hope this helps, sorry for the novel :)

Looking Through Amazon - Search for Zwave Scene

ZWN-SC7 Z-Wave 7-Button Scene Controller
---------------------------------------------------------------
Leviton VRCS4-M0Z Vizia RF + 4-Button Remote Scene Controller
--------------------------------------------------------------
GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller
-------------------------------------------------------------
Just the top most three.

Wow. I've got 2 of the SC7s and they are really great, especially for the price. I found 2 sites selling them for ~44 + shipping, but I got them originally for <$40 shipped. There is the GE 45631, but it appears to work as a full secondary controller rather than a scene controller. Even the Levitons are more expensive now!

Aeotec has the minimote, but it's not wall-mounted--there's this Eaton controller, but it's still more than the Enerwaves for fewer buttons. The only other ones I know of are the Evolve LCD scene controllers, but they're way expensive. Really not sure what happened to the trusty Enerwaves...

This enerwave controller looks fairly similar aesthetically http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/scene-controllers/products/enerwave-7-button-scene-controller-zwn-sc7-z-wave

Leviton makes some multi zone/scene controllers too, but they are pricey. https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRCS4-M0Z-4-Button-Remote-Controller/dp/B0050T2O1O

And GE has some (imo) ugly ones too https://www.amazon.com/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Controller/dp/B003OUWABU

Link for the lazy. I have never had to use my ResQlink so I can't say personally how good it is, but all the reviews that I have read say it is the best you can get for SOS beacons.

Standard PLBs like this one (which I own) have no service charge, but you have to actually activate them in an emergency. So they're only useful if you're conscious and you didn't lose it in your crash.

I got mine for hiking, but it's nice to have for biking, too. On the plus side, their signal is a lot stronger than a Spot's, and you don't need to worry about battery recharge/replacement for 5 years.

There are several different kinds of beacons that serve different purposes. I was carrying one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Backcountry-Access-Tracker-Beacon-B-30000/dp/B00G7IUO9Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521136945&sr=8-5&keywords=avalanche+beacon

It gives off a signal, and if you're buried in an avalanche, another person with a similar beacon can use theirs to find out where you're buried. They work, but the survival rate is low, because an avalanche that completely buries your will suffocate you in a matter of minutes. The signal can only be picked up at close range (~100 feet). They're mainly for one partner to rescue another, which assumes they don't both get buried.

There's also personal locator beacons:

https://www.amazon.com/ACR-ResQlink-Non-Buoyant-PLB-Registration/dp/B005E1OU1A/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1521137134&sr=1-2&keywords=rescue+beacon

These send a (long distance) signal to search and rescue services, indicating that you need help. They work, but in my opinion, wouldn't have helped in this situation.

Thanks for the reply. I checked that site out earlier and unfortunately they do not cover the airport I am stationed at.
I found this one on Amazon and it looks like it should do the trick. Opinions?

http://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Bearcat-Channel-Numeric-BC125AT/dp/B00772MR0K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408849864&sr=8-1&keywords=aviation+scanner#cm_cr_dpwidget

You would have to look up the laws in your area/country. Though I have never really though about the legality of it in other states etc. We have a few scanners and run a piaware adsb feeder. Most scanners are fine for picking up air traffic.
I have one of these bc125AT that we use out on the road. Is quite small and works great. have probably had it over 10 years. Fairly cheap for a analog scanner. Most important is the antenna. Here we have a large 30 foot antenna but in our old apartment we used to use a glass mount on the window. Scanning is a huge hobby and can be as cheap or expensive as you want.
Let me know if you need more info.

Or, because Amazon entirely ignores the first section of the URL...

https://www.amazon.com/Inflatable-Windup-Albatross-with-glowing-LED-eyes/dp/B00772MR0K/

LiveATC is a great source. Here is JFK's Tower right now.

If you are around an airport, you can listen with a scanner (here is a Uniden handheld).

If you have a backup two-way already and want something to keep/throw in the car and not your flight bag, this receiver is $85:

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Handheld-Scanner-Black-BC75XLT/dp/B00A1VSO9M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473644638&sr=8-1&keywords=uniden+bearcat+75

How many races do you go to a year?

Do a bit of math, it might make more sense to buy one.

Just for this year, you're looking at $75 in rental fees. Or you could buy this one for $5 more and use it for years, maybe decades...

80 bucks for a low-end portable scanner will do this without tying up your computer.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-BC75XLT-300-Channel-Handheld-Emergency/dp/B00A1VSO9M?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00A1VSO9M

​

Small enough to take with you. Runs on AC or batteries so you can still hear when the power goes out.

Forgive me if I'm over explaining but it sounds like you're not familiar with scanners. You can buy a police scanner. The police use radios, similar to a walkie-talkie or a CB radio that truckers use. The police radios are on a special frequency and it is illegal to broadcast on that frequency, but anybody can buy a radio that listens to the emergency frequencies.

Just like an FM radio has many stations, and a CB radio has many channels, the police also use several different channels for communicating. If you were manually picking the station, you might be on channel A while the police are talking on channel B. A 'scanner' gets its name from scanning through all the police channels really fast and then stopping on a channel as soon as someone is talking on it.

More recently, people have combined radio scanners with internet streaming. So one can also listen to police from the comfort of a computer.

• Stock vive usb a-a breakout box to pc cable
  
• HDMI with small connectors
  
• Corning 15M Optical USB3 cable
  
• 50FT Optical HDMI
  
• HDMI coupler
  
• DC extension that I extended
  
• The most important part, sexy sleeve. It just barely gets around the HDMI connetor.
  

Thanks! Please let me know what you find. Luckily, my son just got back from college ...with a digital calipers.

They confirm power AFTER the breakout is 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.5mm (outer dia.) like this cable I'm using:
http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCA12-Extension-Foscam-Wireless/dp/B00FT9VW0O

And the power IN to the breakout appears to be 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.75mm (outer dia.) And this roughly agrees with my caveman assessment: it feels like I can cram the breakout A/C adapter into the extension cable above, but I can't quite - even with some force.

But, I don't see an extension cable like than anywhere. Mouser has a 1.3x3.7 connector, and a few 1.3x3.8 connectors. 1.35 inner diameter also seems to be popular. This stuff is all new to me.

HDMI + USB + Power + Cable Sleeve = Good extension cable.

I use this setup on the HMD end of the Linkbox with no issues.

I'll search my amazon purchase history...gimme 5 min.

Here ya go:

Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7SwDxbQHJJX94

been using this one for nine months

I've been using this power cable as an extension between the link box and the normal VIVE power cable, and it's been working great. Not sure how it would work as the only cable connected directly to the VIVE though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O

The one I've heard good things about is [Ring] (https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2) which isn't the cheapest option, but seems pretty simple and easy to set up with your home wifi.

Stay on alert, you never know what they're going to decide is the correct response to not getting Nsupply. . .

Do you have any interest in going a different route, such as an electronic camera doorbell? My parents have one, and it shows up on your phone when the doorbell rings. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2

You could keep your big hulking wood door, which would be my preference! Yes, someone could break your glass patio door. That doesn't mean you should abandon all other areas of security. :)

I use these 3 of these
https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/

> Also note that their maximum recommended area is 8'x8'. And in the link from support the maximum distance between sensors is 14'.

Yeah, I saw that, but I imagine that they are underestimating the range to be on the safe side. I guess I might just have to experiment with the install. It's going to be a bit of a pita to have to experiment, but oh well. I ordered three of these mounts:
https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500067030&sr=8-4&keywords=cctv+mount

So, I'll be able to use these mounts to angle them down towards the play space better. (I currently have them on maximum tilt, but I still don't think they are angled down far enough) besides currently being too far away as well.

I use these camera mounts, which are $6.79 (with free Prime shipping) and give you basically 360 degrees of motion for tweaking the angle.

i dont think thats very necessary. though, yeah, might as well. i know exactly what he's talking about. any security camera mount will do.

here are the ones i got.

https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=pd_sim_63_34?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00R96X9DS&pd_rd_r=AKK3TTZB98ME2QCMTB4J&pd_rd_w=o7hH7&pd_rd_wg=jHVox&psc=1&refRID=AKK3TTZB98ME2QCMTB4J

you can get them in the perfect spot and angle, easy.

I'm not him, but I used these and these. Looks great and tons of adjustability. I trimmed the command hook/loop strips so only the pull tabs stick out the bottom, (nothing out the top...since the strips are rectangles and the mounting base is circular...).

Just bought this.

You can unscrew the head of sensor and mount on this then put on wall

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=crt_ewc_img_srh_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A399QJ4AUP5BQK

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

these are cheap and work great!!! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These puppies are amazing. All metal, SUPER small, and have complete adjustment for height and rotation adjustment. 6 bucks.

Although older the X-Rite ColorMunki Smile (CMUNSML) is an inexpensive option depending on your region:

• $75 CDN - Amazon.ca - X-Rite ColorMunki Smile (CMUNSML)
  
• $99 USD - Amazon.com - X-Rite ColorMunki Smile (CMUNSML)
  
  If you're in the UK/Europe, the Datacolor Spyder5EXPRESS (S5X100) might be cheaper though:
  
  
• £89 - Amazon.co.uk - Datacolor Spyder5EXPRESS (S5X100)
  
• $110 Euro - Amazon.de - Datacolor Spyder5EXPRESS (S5X100)
  
  Note some of those are/might be sale prices due to Cyber Monday!
  
  Failing that, just search your local Amazon and check out reviews of the cheaper options. They all work about the same for non-pro users.
  
  Edit: I just purchased the X-Rite ColorMunki Smile (CMUNSML) as I couldn't pass up the Canadian sale price today. If you want to use newer, open source software with more options look into DisplayCAL, but check the Supported Instruments for colorimeter support.

https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Designed-Hobbyist-Photographers/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524412936&sr=8-2&keywords=monitor+calibrator

He's using this https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Designed-Hobbyist-Photographers/dp/B00UBSL2TO

Basically a camera that connects to your laptop and, with software 'calibrates' your monitor.

• Step 1 - If you haven't already, recalibrate your monitor using a hardware colorimeter such as a ColorMunki Display, or a DataColor Spyder. Calibrating using software only is a complete waste of time.
  
  
• Step 2 - Be certain that you've got the brightness set correctly (and then lock those settings if you can), as well as being sure that there are no auto-brightness control settings enabled. (99% of the time, this is going to be the problem)
  
  
• Step 3 - Identify the correct paper profile for your printer/paper combo. If you're using something other than Epson Paper with an Epson printer, you'll need to look to google to track down the right profile. (If you have an Epson Printer and you're using Epson paper, the paper profile is likely already installed on your machine).
  
  
• Step 4 - Now that you're certain that your display is calibrated and the brightness is correct, load the image in to Photoshop, and soft-proof it with the correct profile for the paper and printer you're planning to use. This is not the most straight forward topic and there is a TON of data to ingest about it, but you can get started here, but understand that this may take a good amount of time to wrap your head around because it's a complex subject. TONS of info on google/YouTube though.
  
  
• Step 5 - Confirm that your print settings are also using the correct paper profile. Here's a quick primer on that from Red River Paper (Who, by the way, you should buy some paper from because it's pretty great).
  
  Good luck!
  
  Ninja Edit: Just as an FYI, current versions of Lightroom, and Capture One Pro also offer some soft proofing capabilities. The workflow is similar - although most of the info/tutorials available online are going to be written for photoshop, and I'd do it there anyway because it'll give you the most flexibility.

RPi3 running homeassistant.io and mostly Z-wave devices with an AeonLabs Z-Stick. Your concern is why my reef tank is actually using an RPi3 to communicate with an arduino mega over serial USB. I get way more pins and better hardware processing out of the arduino and use the RPi3 for automation, display, and command and control.

I have a few circuits in my home where I can't easily install remote controllable switches or dimmers. I ended up using hue bulbs in those fixtures and it works great. The hue (white only) bulbs are as low as $13 each at amazon. IMO getting the hue hub and bulbs is worth it. It is reliable and integrates with everything. I also like that I have the option to add some colored accent lights later.

I use these z-wave motion sensors and they work really well. They are small, accurate, also read temperature and brightness, and they don't actually look like eyes as in the marketing pictures.

I run all of this off of Home Assistant on a raspberry pi 2 with an aeotec zwave stick.

Oh, so I don't even need the expensive Vera hub, right?

• Aotec Z-Stick - $45 - https://amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/
  
• List of supported Z-Wave sticks in HA: https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/z-wave/controllers/

You'll also need a z-stick to manage the z-wave network.

edit: some more detail, sorry. I use an off-the-shelf hub myself, but to the best of my knowledge you'll need a z-stick to act as your primary controller. Plug this into OpenHAB or HomeAssistant and they'll interact with the network through the z-stick.

Also, you can get a comparable door sensor from Monoprice for much less.

Only if you also install a Z-stick.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

I've had it running in a Jail in Freenas for a little over a year now without any real issues. I don't have to reboot it after awhile either. I've had the boot usb drive die (mini-samsung didn't like the constant heat I think) and the network card die (realtek is realshit).

Hardware List:

• Freenas box
  
• InWin IW-MS04 ITX Case
  
• AsRock J3710
  
• 8GB Crucial Ram x 1
  
• HGST Ultrastar 7k4000 3TB x 2
  
• Aeotec z-wave adapter
  
• Intel PRO/1000 Pt Network adapter
  
• !! Note, x4 PCI slot where motherboard only has x1. I modified motherboard to fit card, don't really recommend. Still better than Realtek.
  
• 16GB USB drive x2

I have this one, works great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1457378859&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=z-wave+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=31ocIoiJV9L&ref=plSrch

I don't have any zigbee devices though, all Z-wave

Welcome to OpenHab! I've been using OpenHabian on a Raspberry PI for over a year and I love it.

Here's a link for steps to install OpenHabian on a Raspberry PI.

I'm not sure if it's the best Zwave stick but I use the Aeotec Z-stick Gen 5. I've been using it for over a year and it works great, I haven't had any problems. Getting my Zwave stuff working was the first thing I did when I started using OpenHab, so I'm a little foggy on the setup steps. I think I referenced this link to setup my Zwave stick with my OpenHabian. I don't remember using a guide to setup the Zwave stick. I'll poke around to see if I can find one.

If you haven't already, I would recommend reading through the Overview section on the OpenHab website before starting to setup the Zwave stick. That will walk you though the main concepts of OpenHab. If you need more help let me know. I would be happy to offer recommendations for different sensors and actuators that have worked well for me.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/

Heres the zwave USB stick I use. Home Assistant is great, I run it on a Ubuntu server in my basement. The zwave stick is plugged into it.

Something like the Aeon multi sensor?

Aeotec Multisensor 6, Z-Wave Plus 6-in1 motion, temperature, humidity, light, UV, vibration sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_H5yKzbEFZ8CQW

YI 1080p Home Camera Wireless IP Security Surveillance System (US Edition) White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2.0Lzb59MB8K3

I’ve never had luck with ST equipment.

I recommend Ecolink. I have a bunch and they are very reliable.
https://www.amazon.com/Z-wave-Detector-install-Immunity-PIRZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01MQXXG0I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540477116&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ecolink&dpPl=1&dpID=21fzaKRzb6L&ref=plSrch

I would go zwave. I have two of these Ecolink motion detectors that I use with an Aeotec Zwave stick. Their range back to the hub is very good and are great on battery. I moved the jumper on these so that they reset after motion in seconds instead of minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Motion-Detector-PIRZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B01MQXXG0I?th=1

I have a few of these Z-wave Plus Motion Detector, Easy to install with PET Immunity, White (PIRZWAVE2.5-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KGQ0DbYVGQB2J around and they work pretty well. Snappy triggering.

However, like others have said, you might as well spend another 6-8 bucks and get the aeotec trisensor which is just as responsive, more configurable, smaller, and with 2 additional sensors to use.

The issue I had when trying to figure this out was that any Z-Wave contact sensor I tried to use while it was mounted inside the mailbox was unreliable, at best. The RF signal was getting blocked by the mailbox when it was closed. I solved it by mounting this open/close sensor to the underside of the mailbox, mounting this magnetic sensor inside the mailbox at the door, and running the lead from the magnetic sensor through a tiny hole in the bottom of the mailbox, connecting it to the auxiliary input terminals hidden inside the z-wave sensor. If that doesn't make sense, DM me.

​

Edit: Obviously this would also require a hub such as SmartThings, etc., to send out the notifications.

Edit 2: After a quick search, it appears there may be some WiFi dry contact sensors out there that would probably do what you want without the need for a separate hub, if you have signal at the mailbox.

Sorry this happened, but glad you still have your Ruckus!

Regarding alarms, I keep this in my scooter and turn it on every time I park:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mjLkDb9D3T546

Thing starts blaring at you if you so much as touch the scooter. It's great!

As for trackers, I've heard good things about Monimoto and just ordered one the other day. Looking forward to trying it out.

https://monimoto.com/

Has anybody heard of these Bike Alarms I've been reading about? I'm not sure how effective they can be but I'm thinking about getting a cheap one in hopes that the shrill noise will draw attention to a thief and deter theft.

Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft Vibration Motorcycle Bicycle Alarm Waterproof Security Cycling Bike Alarm with Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vtFzDbN4XE3SG

Used for sure. Plan to spend 1800-2000. I got my 2017 for 1800. I wouldn't go older that 2006. And here, buy this 💯 Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft Vibration Motorcycle Bicycle Alarm Waterproof Security Cycling Bike Alarm with Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RGRFDbCYT5N75

I use this motion sensor alarm...

Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft Vibration Motorcycle Bicycle Alarm
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PrhEDb0GB9AB6

I also use a Tile Pro (with replaceable battery). In case the scooter is stolen.

... and of course I have several locks that I use as well.

Update: I ended up buying one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734QN8KR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Felt weird buying a $15 piece of electronics but I'm pleasantly surprised at how loud this thing is. It even gives off two loud "warning" sounds before going off completely, which is all I really want (to spook off a potential thief).

​

I hid it under the seat and stuck it to the frame with some gorilla glue mounting tape, and it'll do the trick!

Like would this one work? It talks about different angles and wave lengths.

Tendelux 80ft IR Illuminator | AI4 No Hot Spot Wide Angle Infrared Light for Security Camera (w/Power Adapter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w9CrDbJXQMDM0

Do you think an 80ft Illuminator made by the same company would also be effective? Amazon Canada only has that type.

for playing in the dark

Lens protect

Plastic head because why not

I used these wall mounts. They're small, sturdy, and lightweight--perfect for the Oculus sensors. Medium Command strips are more than enough to hold them up.

Just a heads-up, the base plate is a concave shape, as in it's not completely flat on the bottom, but that's not an issue. You can put a single Command strip across two of the screw holes and the weight of the mount and the sensor will hold it to the wall.

No problem--I'll include them all, plus what I used to mount the cameras if interested. Again, no tracking or lag issues whatsoever. Works like it's plugged directly into the motherboard.

Headset Extension:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor Mounts:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are super low profile: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I use these rather than tape to hide my cables to keep the wife happy:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wiremold-1-Piece-0-75-in-x-60-in-Cord-Cable-Organization-Kit-Ivory-Cord-Cover/3129629

Also this to go "wireless":

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6EB8DM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I switched to these based on another responder's recommendation

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a standard mount, so you can get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one screws into the wall like the originals.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd go with a proper computer be it mac or pc as it can just handle more and needs and skills usually grow with time.

Aside from this something you may want to do is buy a couple of external hard drives for backups. It's really important if something goes really wrong mechanically or there's a flood or whatever else. If they're precious family pictures 2 backups is the way to do it. One at home and keep the other off site at your work or a friends house or something and keep them regularly updated.

As for colour reproduction you'll need something like [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Colorimeter-USB-Connector/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1468087478&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=spyder+4) and get them done at a decent lab. That way the profile from your monitor and their calibrated printers will match up give more accurate colour reproduction in the final prints. Monitors are fairly easy to calibrate but calibrating printers isn't really a thing without it costing an arm and a leg for the home user. Find a good lab and they'll do you just fine.

what's "every other regard" then, if we're not talking about picture quality?

A big part of the problem is that people don't calibrate their monitors, and this is totally irrespective of price point generally. I was having horrible IPS glow with my BenQ monitor until I looked up some custom RGB settings and a recommended brightness level and it improved image quality so much.

For my next build I might actually downgrade a component or two to fund a proper monitor calibrator like this

My current go-to with that set of requirements would probably be the LG Neo Blade III. I personally really like LG monitors, they've got a great price/performance and really good colour reproduction. Currently I'm seeing the Neo Blade III for $189, which is a bargain.

My other recommendation would be to invest in a colourimeter like the Spyder 5 Express. Most monitors these days can do a decent job at reproducing colours so long as they are accurately calibrated. Unfortunately, most monitors these days also come out of the box suffering from what I call "Best Buy Syndrome"- all the contrast and saturation dialed up to 11 like those shiny demo models in your local Best Buy. Spyder 5 with the free software DisplayCal will do you great. Slap it on your monitor, follow the instructions, and in about 30 minutes you'll have accurate colours for editing.

For comparison, it sells for $240 in Canada... so even after the exchange rate and shipping, $99 USD is still a good deal.

Windows and MacOS have built in utilities to help calibrate monitors, but I've been using the test images from here for about 10 years:

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

That page will do a pretty good job, but if you really want to get it 100% right, something like this is what is needed:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q/

> Colormunki Display

Thank you for the amazing reply.

The Colormunki Display came out in 2011, right? It has better sensor even though it came out 4 years earlier?

Is this 2011 one, the one you're talking about:

X-Rite CMUNDIS ColorMunki Display CDN$ 168.99

Datacolor S5P100 Spyder5PRO CDN$ 187.16

The Spyder5 express is the same price as the 2011 Colormunki Display.

Nope, its fine.

Most important question - is your monitor calibrated? If you don't have a hardware calibration sensor then you really can't be sure what you are seeing is accurate.

Having one will save you plenty of frustration when you want to start ordering prints. I'm calibrated and when I order prints I drop-ship them directly to the client. I don't need to see them first.

I have the 5-year old version of this calibrator and it's still working just fine. It's a very worthwhile investment.

Buy a color calibrator, or do it very crudely (if you are selling prints I would not do this) and hold your phone next to your MacBook and use the basic software adjustments like contrast, gamma, and rgb settings to match it. A proper color calibrator will ensure your photos are accurate and as even as they can be across all screens. Some of the higher end ones even allow camera and printer calibration. Once again, unless you are just shooting for fun, id STRONGLY recommend actually buying a proper calibrator like these:
Datacolor spyder5PRO or the spyder5elite

x-rite colormunki display or the x-rite idisplay PRO

You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.

You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.

Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.

Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.

You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.

Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.

Have fun.

HA is definitely more user friendly. Its discovery process does an excellent job of finding most entities. I find openahb to be more stable with the z-wave protocol, but it's a more established product. HA has a lot of momentum. They are prolific with updates and feature additions.

I'm currently running Openhab because I have z-wave stability issues in HA, but I have a feeling I will switch to HA eventually once it irons it out. The beauty of raspberry pi is that cheap SD cards can act as swappable hard drives. So I actually have one card with Openhab and another with HA. I simply shutdown, swap cards and I can run the other system. 8GB is plenty if home automation is all you're running on an image.. those can be bough for $6 nowadays.

One thing you'll want to do is research protocols before setting it up. In addition to HA or Openhab, many protocols require additonal hubs or controllers to talk the language to those devices. So for Z-wave, you would need something like this. HA and Openhab are very flexible and can talk many protocols, but just keep in mind that talking multiple protocols may or may not be exactly free (depending on the protocol/technology).

Alrighty that looks like what I was thinking. I was checking on this stick from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=z-wave+usb&qid=1565731713&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

I have read reports of some users stating that they had an easy time allowing the USB pass through from the ESXi host running the HA VM.

​

Thanks for the additional info about the flashing part, something I will need to consider as I would prefer to make my devices linear rather than buying all different types of Smart products.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eakcAb1VXWZA2

This is the one I have:
https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

This guy had a lot of info on HA on his channel but this video specifically covers that USB stick and getting it all setup: https://youtu.be/ajklDCaOGwY

I've not used any Zigbee stuff so I can't help there.

The top amazon review for the Z-stick has alternate instructions that can be leveraged as well. I've pasted them here for your convenience but if you need further assistance, go to Amazon.

note: I am not the author, just spreading the word.

Folks, here is how you disable the annoying flashing disco LED light:

• Step 1: Get a Windows machine
  

• Note: if you only have a Raspberry Pi / Linux, please read Fred's comment below. He explains how to send the command on Raspberry Pi.
  

• Step 2: Download Drivers for the USB stick from the official website and follow their instructions
  
• Step 3: Download CoolTerm (it is free)
  
• Step 4: Plug-in the USB stick. CoolTerm should immediately recognize it as a COM-port. Mine is COM3
  
• Step 5: In CoolTerm, click "Connect". Now you are connected to your USB Z-stick via Serial interface
  
• Step 6: In CoolTerm menu: Go to "Connection" -> "Send String..."
  
• Step 7: Pick "Hex" radio button and copy/paste the following command
  01 08 00 F2 51 01 00 05 01 51
  
• Step 8: Click "Send"
  Step 9: Disco is over!

http://www.openzwave.net/device-database

Just because something isn't there doesn't mean it won't work, it just might not support all features.

As far as a controller goes, I would suggest: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E

I'm using the CT100 and I'm very happy with it so far. You need a Z-Stick though (since that's how all the Z-Wave devices communicate) and some sort of software/controller like Home Assistant, OpenHAB, or a closed-source alternative.

I’ll be nice. Detects leaks in your house. Put them under the sink. Any place a leak may occur.

Send yourself a notification so you know a leak is occurring.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E

https://www.amazon.com/aeotec-water-sensor/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aaeotec%20water%20sensor

> So, what are my options if I don't want this internet connected / PC controllable?

That seems like an odd question. What exactly do you mean you don't want it internet connected? Do you just mean you don't want to have to rely on the cloud services. In other words do you just want to be sure your HA system will continue working if your internet goes out?

If thats the case i would go with a

raspberry pi

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483394601&sr=1-2&keywords=raspberry+pi

A zwave usb stick

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1483394649&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=zwave+usb+stick

And then from there just start grabbing some zwave switches/outlets

You can choose whether the system is accessible outside of the network while still having access to the system through your phone/tablet/pc/switches/remotes from in the home.

For zwave just buy this and plug it into a raspberry pi (or any other computer u always have turned on) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_1NWxCbN4SCB72

I live in the US, its available on amazon:

Newest version

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

I have this one

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA02203-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E/

Ecobee3 is a Thermostat. You can add room sensors that link up to it to help balance the temperature around the house. Is that not what you want?

Here is the stick: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E

Z-Wave is a popular protocol for HA devices that creates a mesh network so that even if the furthest device can't directly see the "hub," if it can see a device that can see the hub, messages will hop from one to the other. There are a bunch of inexpensive Z-wave devices from garage door openers, switches, plugs, outlets, etc... that all work with Home Assistant. You will however need a "hub" to control them. Fortunately you can get a usb stick to act as the hub and just plug it into the computer you are running HomeAssistant on and you don't need another big device, just the usb stick. (Though you can use something like smarthings to act as the hub interface but I don't really recommend it)

The two most popular usb sticks are the Aeotec and the HUSBZB-1 (note: the HUSBZB-1 also has Zigbee, another popular protocol)

If you'd rather stay with wifi, I have seen some people take a sonoff that they've put inside a waterproof box. Though I have not tried it myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E

Most people use the Aotech Zwave dongle here: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259191&sr=8-1&keywords=aotech+zstick&dpID=41%252BuCNE13iL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
You could also get a combination Zwave/Zigbee dongle for even less: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259245&sr=8-3&keywords=zigbee+dongle&dpID=41GzEBEgWSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Alot of people start with Zwave or Zigbee controlled lights, but most people end up with Zwave switches instead, because humans need to also turn those devices on and off. The easiest Zwave switches/dimmers to acquire are the GE Line of Jasco switches, which are sold by https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259343&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+wave&dpID=51rDfQfpEAL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Well no you need a hardware interface for the protocol(s) you're trying to use, like a Zwave USB adapter or whatever.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E

The wiki goes over the different home automation protocols. The biggest reason these protocols exist is because a lot of HA devices need to run on batteries, so they need to be extremely power efficient, and bandwidth isn't a big concern for HA. There are some newer devices such as LIFX that just connect to your WiFi, and don't require a special protocol or gateway.

To link all of your devices together, you want a hub that can communicate with all these different protocols. Right now Home Assistant is quickly becoming the dominant player in open source home automation hubs. If you run Home Assistant on your desktop you can immediately connect to any networked devices, such as Chromecasts, and can monitor whether your phone is connected to the network to trigger automations. If you want to talk to one of the HA protocols, you need to buy an adapter, such as the Z-Stick that allows your PC to communicate on the ZWave frequency.

> If you do go with a Aeon Labs USB stick I'd suggest getting the Gen 5 version for future compatibility

Sure thing!

So I used a Raspberry Pi, but you could also use a virtual server or old desktop. The nice thing about the Pi is it is super cheap and uses very little energy since you have to leave it on all the time. It is far cheaper to buy the Pi than to use an old desktop that is sitting around. Use Z-Wave Plus (aka Gen5) devices, the older non-plus devices can't be upgraded and most do not support encryption.

So, things you'll need:

A Raspberry Pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/

A Z-wave plus controller (I went with the Aeotec Gen5 because it is well supported by the project): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/

A cheap Raspberry Pi case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1BNANM/

Z-wave plus devices you want to control. For the outdoor lights I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/

A MicroSD card (At least 8GB, the higher the class the better, but you don't need to go overboard) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KFXIDO/

An old micro USB phone charger

A MicroSD card reader


So there are several ways to install Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io). I started trying out trying their new Hass.io operating system and found it just wasn't as stable as I would have liked as of yet and documentation was lacking. I'm not knocking the OS, but personally I ended up installing it on top of Raspbian Lite. To install, you’ll want to head over here: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/noobs/  and follow the instructions on copying the files to your MicroSD card. When you get to the point of installing an OS, choose Raspbian Lite.

After you get done installing head over here: https://home-assistant.io/docs/installation/raspberry-pi/ . This gives a pretty straightforward installation guide on how to install on Raspbian Lite. It helps to have some familiarity with POSIX-oriented operating systems.

From this point on you can branch out in many directions depending on what you want to do. Home Assistant is highly customizable. Read the docs and follow examples. There are forums if you get stuck and I’d be happy to answer any questions or give suggestions for whatever use case you might have.

Hope that helps :-)

Also note you’ll need a z-stick


Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5, Z-Wave Plus USB to create gateway https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Fp53Db3CZX23A

Why not just get a zwave dongle for your ha server and then a zwave ge switch?

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E

​

Have had this setup running for about 2 years now. I use the dimmers as well. I run HA in a docker on an unraid server without issues having it pickup the zwave stick.

If you know anything about Linux it should be easy to pick up. If you don't know anything about Linux and you want to learn by doing, this is a great way to start. I'm somewhere it the middle, and it taught me a few things without being totally annoying.

Grab a Raspberry Pi and follow the instructions in the Getting Started section of http://home-assistant.io. Since it runs a database on your Pi, get a fast SD card; that will be the bottleneck in speed for the UI.

The Z-Wave contoller I'm using is one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

It holds all of the information regarding your Z-Wave devices direcly onboard the dongle.

The Z-Wave controller plus the Raspberry Pi running Home Assistant are the equivalent of the "hub" you're talking about. You can expand it to do pretty much whatever you want, too.

Yes, it's more complicated to get set up, but you can do a lot more than the name brand hubs once you're comfortable with it.

Their forums are a good source of help, but if you take the dive and get stuck feel free to PM me.

Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 (ZW090)

It was pretty simple to set up and now that Z-Wave secure is working for OZW, I've even got my locks, which was the main thing i've got automated.

Welcome in the automation world ! You will need a USB key to be able to communicate with your Z-WAVE devices
something like this https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@Gottria

I was really trying to make the RP3 version work, but it had two limitations:

1. Only 5 plugins allowed ( I'm already way past that)
   
2. It is linux based, which would normally be a good thing - but since HS is .NET, there were a fair number of plugins that did not run (or get supported) on Linux / Mono.
   
   
   I bought the HS3 software only (not pro, just regular). My understanding is HS does a 50% off deal 2x a year, so I'll wait for that and upgrade to pro. (TIP: put it in your cart, and leave the site for a day or so. I got an email with a 25% off coupon for it)
   
   I bought my own mini windows box (this thing is tiny, and it's actually really cool) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1LA8MB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   And this Z-Wave USB device (in my reading it had better reviews than the HS one, and it works great) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   So far this stack has worked out great for me

I've already got hass.io set up on a raspberry pi so i could unlock my door with 3rd party apis.

just bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to control my z-wave devices... this downtime is too frequent for me.

The unlock code i give to my airbnb guests didn't work when i had one arrive last night... fortunately, i was home to let him in but the amount of worrying i do that wink will go down when i'm out of town and have a guest arriving is too high.

I just started using a Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 with my pi 2B. Seems pretty solid so far, but it's only been about a week.

You may be able to access a Zwave USB stick using the serial library for the Arduino. I bought one but haven't had much time to play with it:

Aeon Labs ZW090 Z Stick

I had mine connected to a NUC and got it to pair with one of my motion sensors, but got distracted by other projects before I went any further with it.

Does anyone have any experience with the Aeon Labs ZW100 Multisensor?

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW100-Multisensor/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481048866&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+motion

If you cant/dont want to go the route of ny1105's Fibaro (which is a great option) and you still wanted a repeater with some other useful features, I'd suggest the aeotec multisensor. In the USB powered mode, it'll act as a zwave+ repeater instead of just a battery powered node. And now you have motion and temperature sensors that you can use for other fun automations :)

​

I use one of the outdoor GE (dongle) switches as a repeater for my gates. Just barely enough range to hit the back gate ~300ft (los) away

My advice is stay away from the high energy hyper breeds. Mix breeds can be hard to pin point so you would want to get them from a foster situation where someone has spent time with the dog.

Also there are all kinds of options such as Rover or Wag or local dog walker to come let your dog out in the middle of the day.
Security Camera for if you go that route. Also just a good thing to have to check in on your pup during the day.

Amazon also sells these sod boxes that you can train dogs to use just like a cat litter box. Fresh Patch or Synthetic Grass or I’m sure you could build your own. I’ve heard of people buying a small kiddy pool and filling it with dirt or sand for the dog to go in.

It really depends on your budget but it’s totally possible.

If you don't want to spend a lot, these Yi cameras are an amazing value and work really well. No cloud subscription is required (though it is an a available option), data can be stored locally on an SD card, and live and past footage can be pulled up at any time from the app. I have setup many of these over the past 2 years. Essentially a Nest Cam at 1/6 the cost. I continue to be pleasantly surprised by how well they work.

They also make an outdoor version that I have been meaning to try as well.

We do. It was originally suppose to be a man cave for my husband but plans change. We have four dogs ranging from 8-75 lbs. It is a finished basement that has their crates, food, water bowls as well as a tv for their doggie channel and an old love seat for lounging.

YI 1080p Home Camera, Indoor IP Security Surveillance System Night Vision Home/Office / Baby/Nanny / Pet Monitor iOS, Android App - Cloud Service Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D8k5BbAFH6MFE

That is the camera we use to keep an eye on them. Two way mic, 24 hr recording(that’s extra), and motion detection.

https://www.amazon.com/YI-Security-Surveillance-Monitor-Android/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538757940&sr=1-6&keywords=yi+camera&dpID=31IWy7IjmNL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

$30 and then you'll want an SD card if you want to do loop recording. They also have a 2-pack for $50 it looks like, and other model types. I have 3 of those kind now, 1 dome camera, and 2 outdoor cameras - all Yi Home. They work really great for the price, and there's an Android and Desktop app for it too. Some reviews complained about the app permissions, FWIW, but I can live with it.

Correct, I think they charge a fee to have the camera feed saved on the cloud. I was looking into this other option https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K?psc=1

Some reviews say is better than dropcam and the the cloud option is also cheaper.

That's so scary! I'm glad you're getting the locks changed! Have you gotten a camera yet? If not, I recommend this one. It's small and fairly inexpensive. It has night vision, motion detection, and records sound also. It runs via a phone app, and you can talk into the microphone and it plays through the camera. We have two that we use as video monitors for our daughter since it was so much cheaper than a true baby video monitor. My husband sometimes checks the app when he's at work so it works from any distance.


YI 1080p Home Camera, Indoor Wireless IP Security Surveillance System with Night Vision for Home / Office / Baby / Pet Monitor with iOS, Android App - Cloud Service Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5rNSAbM0F2YTW

Does she have wifi? I purchased 4 pack from this company. But here is a single
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EEF3DbKF9792B

You have to get a small memory card for it. But nothing really happens around my home with out being on video.

Perhaps its just a child walking to school. But is she is creeped out. You only have video as option. You cant be all ninja in the shadow

These guys: Z-wave Plus Motion Detector

There are pet-ignoring motion sensors if you did want motion detection. I have a bunch of Ecolink PIRZWAVE2.5-ECO sensors that have a sensitivity toggle. On lowest sensitivity mode it does not see my 60 lb husky, but still does see people reliably. On medium sensitivity it does see the husky, but not my 35lb dalmatian, and on max sensitivity mode it sees anything that moves.

Here's the zwave device I used with the wire terminals: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5

Edit: More details about how I wired it...

Took the chime box off the wall and there were two cables, each with a pair of wires inside. One pair of wires goes to the transformer in the basement. The other pair of wires goes to the doorbell itself. That's what you want to plug into the doohickey linked above. Someone presses the doorbell and it closes the contact. Home Assistant will see the zwave device status as "open" as if a door is open. This is what you trigger your automation off of.

How to know which pair of wires is the one you want? Either get a multimeter and put it across a pair while you're five year old pushes the doorbell. Does resistance go to zero? If so, you found it.

The other method is to just rub the wires in a pair together. The one that sparks is not the one you want because that goes to your transformer (you're seeing 12 volts spark across it. Not much more dangerous than licking a 9v battery). Grab the other pair and plug them into the doohickey. This is the method I used.

I just taped the door sensor to the top of the chime box and I can't see it from the ground.

Which ecosystems are you already using (zwave, zigbee, wifi, 433 etc..)?

I've been using these zwave door sensors for a while and they are ok. Funky little batteries (you can get rechargeable ones on amazon), but they pair pretty easily and respond quickly for both open and close events.

For my master bedroom, I've wired magnetic contact switches to a wemo d1 mini. So far so good. I wish I was able to hardwire all of my doors and windows to a central location. Seems more reliable, no batteries and a *lot* cheaper than wireless devices on every door and window.

I don't have Aeotec's door sensor but I do have the multisensor 6. I also will not be buying any more sensors after that experience. Hardwired the motion sensor works ok but I question the readings I get from the other sensors. On batteries it's a crapshoot, which sucks because I really want more to use some more of those types of sensors.

For door sensors I'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5 and they work great.

I created a setup where I have the exact same thing happen for me, but with the coffee machine. I use Vera, but I'm guessing you might be able to create something for another home automation setup...

Here's the basic setup:
Security sensor mat placed in my bed senses when I'm laying down. The mat is wired into a door sensor. When I wake up, the door sensor trips and starts a timer. Should the timer complete, the appliance plug the coffee machine is plugged into turns on. 1/2 hour later it automatically shuts off.

The reason for the timer is so that I can get up in the middle of the night for a snack and come back to bed WITHOUT turning the coffee machine on.

Here's what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUNX7WY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd make sure to use these two items together. I pulled the alarm off of the door mat and wired the two wires into the phoenix connector screws already supplied inside the door sensor. The timer was a plug-in in the vera controller.

this one Had to change the cheap AAAs after 6 months. Very loud.

disk brake alarm Had to open it and resolder a wire after ~8 months. I put it in the rear triangle on the brake. Very loud as well.

heres the GPS tracker. There’s many other options though.

I'm of the opinion that quantity of locks vs quality is better. Now don't use 99 cent locks use 3+ 20ish dollar locks. I use two 20 dollar kryptonite ulocks, 1 bell key lock, and a masterlock combination lock with one the the cables from the kryptonite locks. I also just bought this vibration alarm that will make thief's run if they were to even try to get through my defenses.

Shit that's such a bummer! Do they have insurance? Homeowners or renters if they don't get it back? Will keep an eye out for it!

Would recommend installing a motion sensor bike-theft type of alarm for these types of things. Yes, won't deter the most aggressive of thieves but an alarm is an alarm - and I would imagine this took more than a couple minutes to hook up and drive away with. We've got one on our trailer that we (once in a blue moon) leave out front to prepare for a weekend.


https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Anti-Theft-Vibration-Motorcycle-Waterproof/dp/B0734QN8KR

I bought two things:

1. Anti-theft alarm (motion alarm) with remote. Loud AF. It's a cheap noise-making mechanism to deter thieves fwiw
   
2. A high strength rated Abus U-lock (or d-lock)
   
   Videos for usage:
   
   

• A few other measures
  
• Using a u-lock (or d-lock)
  
  I don't like leaving it unattended for long periods and take it with me where I can to stow it in a corner somewhere. But for quick runs here & there it's been fine.

Depending on how paranoid you are you can also supplement a cable lock system with a motion alarm fixed back in the kayak. I use one of these set inside a hatch at night when I have to leave my kayak on the car roof at night.

i have this one as well as many others and its great! also comes with some zip ties haha. ive watched it in action on my bike before and the potential thief left it alone.

For no install needed: Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft Vibration Motorcycle Bicycle Alarm Waterproof Security Cycling Bike Alarm with Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VMWOCbETZPVCP

For minor-major wiring/soldering needed: BlueFire Motorcycle Security Kit Alarm System Anti-Hijacking Cutting Off Remote Engine Start Arming Disarming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTGWYBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xOWOCbXDSXBQW

I tried the alarmed disc lock route and hated it. Separate is much better, just a button press and done. Still have a regular disk lock for sketch areas too.

The 2nd link is meant to hook up to your battery. I never noticed any battery drain with it, but I only hooked up the brain/sound. Didn’t want to spend the time to have my lights flash or the kill switch worked in.

Heres the link for anyone who wants it with all the amazon trackers removed
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Anti-Theft-Vibration-Motorcycle-Waterproof/dp/B0734QN8KR

This is my motion alarm, though it's available in several places with a dozen different throwaway brand names. Strap it to the bike, arm it, and if anyone jostles the bike, it makes noise. First a warning noise, then if movement continues, it goes off for a while. That's basically all it is - loud noise.



Edit 11/1/2019: Boomerang had a spat with their wireless carrier, and as a result, all Cyclotrac V1's in the US that ran on Verizon were permanently disconnected without notice. Boomerang's response to this problem was to ask customers to keep paying monthly for the service that they're no longer getting, so they could put the money toward developing their next product.

I no longer use or recommend the Boomerang Cyclotrac.



My GPS tracker is the soon-to-be-discontinued Boomerang Cyclotrac V1. It's being discontinued because it runs on 2G data (2G infrastructure in North America will be decommissioned in the next couple years), but it's cheap and it'll work well until the cell service goes offline. The Cyclotrac works similarly to any alarm - you arm it, and if the bike is jostled, it sounds an alarm. But it also sends you a text to let you know that your bike is being tampered with, so it can alert you even if you're out of earshot, and you can see your bike's realtime position on a map in their app. Significant downside: All communication with the device, even through the app, takes place via the cell network, so there is sometimes a significant delay when arming or disarming it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0734QN8KR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Ah, I get the idea, but you don't have to pin it, just get one of these and place it in the pumpkin. Pick it up and it'll go off.

found this searching for the best lock and this thing is a beast. Even in NYC i feel confident leaving it outside for short periods of time with this + alarm + kryptonite gravity wheelnutz. I have a 5 foot version. Makes the kryptonite chain lock look like childs play.

​

https://www.westechrigging.com/pewag-security-chain-012-galv-kit-5.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T852R90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734QN8KR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’m going to try it with this one: Tendelux 80ft IR Illuminator | AI4 No Hot Spot Wide Angle Infrared Light for Security Camera (w/Power Adapter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_iwTxDbAT6Q1XK

I'm having the same issues with my recently purchased pans. 3 cameras in various rooms throughout my house, the IR alone barely penetrates a few feet into the dark. In my kid's rooms they leave nightlights on, so it's not an issue. In our playroom though, I ended up putting my old FosCam on a shelf, and plugging it in just as a supplementary IR illuminator. It has far more IR lights and it lights up a large playroom like a christmas tree. I'm loving almost everything about the Wyze cams, but a little disappointed in the apparent weakness of the IR lights. I'd definitely suggest checking Amazon, they have some cheap IR illuminators that could help.

This one has decent reviews and is mentioned to work great with Wyze cams. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aG80CbEE00161

I added a couple IR illuminators to handle the after dark lighting for my cameras and actually turned off the IR from the Wyze cams themselves. They aren't any good for outdoor illumination. Not knocking them for that, as I knew that when I purchased. But a couple ir lights like these Tendelux 80ft IR Illuminator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8QvYDb1AF74CG. Do a great job of lighting the areas my cameras cover. There are many cheap options, just recommending one Inknow that works. You don't have to mount it next to your camera, if that's inconvenient, just where you want the night vision to be lit up.

Ahh yeah, family complicates what should be a business matter.

The temporary lock, i think, would technically still be a violation, but it'd at least protect you from light attempts to enter, at least while you're at home. You could probably accomplish a similar result by using a doorstop. And I see one that has an alarm; that'd be nice so if someone tried to get in, it'd wake you.

http://www.amazon.com/GE-50246-Smart-Home-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M

Put it far enough from the door that you can open the door without triggering it, but close enough that they trigger it because they don't know it's there. If you're friends with one of your neighbors, let them in on it. Tell them to call the cops when they hear it go off.

ah yes, maybe this one. should work with sliding doors

Unfortunately the 360 Kinect doesn't have the camera-mount screw threaded hole in the base like the XB1 one does. I know the base of this 360 Kinect mount does. An alternative solution to this problem would be to do what I did, and buy a simple security camera mount kinda like this one and put the Kinect on the wall, behind the TV.

If you'd like to avoid adhesive and prefer screw-mount for any reason, I used these with great results, $8.89. These also allow fully vertical placement, which it doesn't look like the OP link's do.

Here are the links for all the extras I bought to set it up.

• Wall mount
  
  
• Wall Mounts 2-pack
  
  
• TV Mount
  
  
• 10ft HDMI for headset extension
  
  
• HDMI Female Connectors
  
  
• 6ft USB 3.0 cable extensions
  
  
• 10ft USB 3.0 extension (for headset extension.
  
  (the 16 ft extension is the one that came when I ordered my oculus.)
  

I have my 3-sensor setup at head level... about 6'. Initially I was going to place them much higher (around 8'); but came to the realization I would be losing a little range in the bargain. It wouldn't be much, but given the size of my playspace, it was borderline achievable, so I played it safe. I rarely encounter tracking issues.

I'm not much a fan of tripods. I find them cumbersome and tacky. I also don't relish the idea of wires hanging out all over the place, or having to reconfigure or reset every time I want to jump in to a session.

I suggest you find a weekend to spend some time measuring the dimensions of your area, invest in some cord concealers at the local hardware place (you can paint them), pick up the recommended USB extension cables (if necessary), and purchase some cheap wall mounts.

The result is functional, an aesthetically pleasing.

My setup - image 1

My setup - image 2

My setup - image 3

Edit: Formatting

Theres inexpensive door chimes that go off when door is opened.

GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm, 2-Pack, DIY Home Protection, Burglar Alert, Wireless Alarm, Off/Chime/Alarm, Easy Installation, Ideal for Home, Garage, Apartment, Dorm, RV and Office, 45115 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M8jsDbQ5ZP65J

https://www.alzstore.com/door-chime-alarm-add-on-p/0068.htm

I used to use simple stuff like this for when i had to travel with Alzheimer's parent bc you can like tape it to the hotel door and such. It wont keep them in though but it could wake you.

Some fancier for Alzheimer's:

https://www.alzstore.com/door-alarm-sensor-kit-p/0070.htm

Theres mats for beds and floors that detect when someone is out of bed or on the floor next to bed.

NYOrtho Bedside Floor Mats for Elderly Fallshield - Handicap Non-Slip Beveled Edge Fall Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CFY4G48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbksDbA22JA4G

Smart Caregiver Wireless and Cordless Weight Sensing Bed Pad - 10" x 30" (Monitor or Alarm Included). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043RFKME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sdksDb14D24AM

I havent tried these though. I heard if you get a junk one though and your person is very light they might not set off the alarm..?

If you are only relying on alarms youll get this paranoid pavlovian response of "what was that? Was that the alarm? I better check!"

You could try locking them in tho it might cause a horrible reaction (frantic panic and wanting to escape type of thing). If you try this try for a cheap test first. :p. My dad would have busted the door down.

But ill be honest, the best thing we ever did to control wandering was to put up a perimeter chainlink fence, so even if they make it out, you know they are not getting far. We had a child safety rail on the bed to discourage attempts, a door chime, and a chainlink fence.

My mom didn't want to lock the door because sometimes she wanted to leave it open when it was hot, and she wanted to hear them and be able to rush in quickly in case they were in distress or fell. We tried id bracelet but dad kept taking it off

Many judo clubs are very much non-profits. You might be able to explain your financial and living situation, and get a reduced rate. I bet most any place I've trained in the last 10 years wouldn't turn me away if I was in danger and couldn't afford training.

Tasers are just going to be expensive no matter what. Plus you have to periodically train with it, and a single training cartridge costs something like $25. May be something to think about long term, but probably not a short term solution.

One of the cheapest, fastest, and easiest things I can think of is to get some of these stickers and put one around the area of concern. It absolutely will not stop someone who knows what they are doing, but it might give pause to some people.

When I mentioned alarm systems, I was thinking something more expensive, but you could also get something like this or this. The main purpose of this is to just make sure you don't get caught sleeping. That's a nighmare scenario. If someone breaks in, and you know about it, have a bat or something and fight. Your odds really aren't that bad. (Thieves and rapists really aren't looking for a life-or-death fight.)

None of this is ideal, but it can help a lot.

I'm not a EE so don't know much about noise and cable length, but my hunch is that you should be able to run something that long with shielded cable, as opposed to just regular old unshielded hookup wire.

Are you going to build the actual sensors yourself? If you're running a whole bunch of cable it might be just as simple as creating two metal contacts for each door that touch/don't touch when the door is closed/open respectively, creating a closed or open circuit. If you want something fancier, there are a bajillion varieties of window/door alarms like this that you could probably hack.

While "drill a hole in the wall" is probably the easiest solution, as you mentioned, it's not that elegant...I haven't done anything with wireless transmitting before, but it looks like SparkFun carries relatively cheap RF transmitters and receivers. I didn't look at the data sheets so I don't know if you can just continuously broadcast analog data from the transmitters and have the receivers hooked up to your Arduino inside, or if you'd need one on both ends. If you do need a second Arduino, there are cheaper options like the Pro Mini - I just ordered one a few days ago (haven't gotten it yet), but my impression is that it's smaller, and basically the same thing as the Uno but you have to solder everything yourself, making it nicer for permanent embedded projects.

I'd be interested to see how this turns out to set up something similar in my own house, in case you feel like posting pics/code/circuit diagrams when you're done.

Get one of these door alarms to turn on for when you're not home. They pretty loud, and night scare away a burglar during a break in. Not as good as paying for actual security monitoring of your apartment, but it's something.

There are IP cameras you can setup and use (they record locally to a microSD card) without having internet, but most require at least a cheap router to broadcast a wireless network (wifi but no internet) so you can connect to them from a computer and setup via their admin web page.

You might benefit from a LTE router/modem which uses a cell provider's data plan to provide you wifi. Not sure of your location but AT&T and Verizon both offer that... pricewise though YMMV.

As far as the car, best advice I can give is the usual: Don't leave items of value visible in it, always lock the car (you'd be surprised how many people leave their cars unlocked), park the car where you can see it, or in a well lit area of the parking lot.

Does it have a dead bolt? They make dead bolt covers that are so easy to install.

[Deadbolt cover](Safety 1st Secure Mount Deadbolt Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBF7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_leGSCbC9ZV3BF)

It was very simple to install. I think it involved loosening the screws and sliding the cover over it, then tightening it back up.

My three year old still can't even get it to turn even a little.

I also have a sticky door alarm higher.
It'll go off when one piece that's on the door is separated from the piece stuck on the door jam.

It's crazy loud. So if he manages to get it open and I'm in the other room, I'll know.

[here's the alarm](GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm, 2-Pack, DIY Home Protection, Burglar Alert, Wireless Alarm, Off/Chime/Alarm, Easy Installation, Ideal for Home, Garage, Apartment, Dorm, RV and Office, 45115 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bmGSCbRZSQ61J)

A shattered window wouldn't wake you? I'm not sure any audible device would suffice short of an air horn. However, vibration sensors are no good since you'll be walking around setting them off. You need the kind that are based on magnets. It's made of two pieces. One is fixed to the part that doesn't move, the other to the part that does. When the two separate, the alarm is triggered. I feel that would be a better option.

Eeek. Don't mount the sensors on the ceiling... upside-down sensors are the source of more tracking problem threads than can I can count. Get some proper swivel mounts and put the sensors on the wall right-side-up.

These are what I use and endorse, it's just $15 for a 2-pack:
https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4/

I don't have the video cam, so I can't offer up specific recs, but there are a number of mini/pocket sized tripods with small ball swivel heads that might help if you're wanting to set it on a shelf or table. Manfrotto offers a pretty solid one, or some of the ones sold as cell phone tripods might work if they aren't so lightweight that they fall over easily.

Alternatively, something like this could also work, though depending on camera weight or the center of gravity, you'd probably need to screw it down to the shelf or to a board painted to match: https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4/

Man, you have no idea how well it gets rid of that line of sight issue. I can lay prone and shoot! People were getting mad at me in multiplayer for it, lol.

It's super easy and will only cost you $40~ - here's what I used with mine:

• Mounts (2 pack)
  
• Cable Hooks
  
• 10 Foot USB 3.0 Extension
  
  The sensor cords are only 8 feet, so chances are you'll need to extend both. Use USB 3.0 for the first 2 sensors, and USB 2.0 if you get a 3rd.

If you have the room/ability, I'd mount the sensors on the ceiling or corners of the room. I got two (VideoSecu 2 Pack 2-6 inch Metal Wall Ceiling Mounts Adjustable Pan Tilt Video Camera Mounting Brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bYfm6J1rX8VQH) to mount them cheaply and securely, and three (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_z9Cm45OtYiwYz). Purchasing a third sensor nets you a USB extension cable, and I also got an HDMI extension cable to give my Rift some extra room. Sorry for all the links! The ceiling setup gives me pretty flawless tracking.

hi bro i use this for all for of mines https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001D49TU4&pd_rd_r=80RP0Q7TXN6GCPNVZQQC&pd_rd_w=tsm4A&pd_rd_wg=JVGtf&psc=1&refRID=80RP0Q7TXN6GCPNVZQQC

Using these: VideoSecu 2 Pack 2-6 inch Metal Wall Ceiling Mounts Adjustable Pan Tilt Video Camera Mounting Brackets with Ceiling Clip for CCTV DVR Home Installatio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_rMVvC74Ui1ffH

I'll try to get you a closer picture tonight.

You can also use camera mounts. This is what I use for mounting my 3 sensors, but there are many different choices if you prefer a different brand.

VideoSecu 2 Pack 2-6 inch Metal Wall Ceiling Mounts Adjustable Pan Tilt Video Camera Mounting Brackets with Ceiling Clip for CCTV DVR Home Installation Surveillance System 1SG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CWaBzbBAPEBSX

Looks nice, but I wouldn't store the Rift upside down.
Aside from that you should consider wall mounts like this : https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496041851&sr=8-5&keywords=camera+wall+mount

Very easy to set up.

THESE are a little pricey at $15 for the pair but are doing a good job for me

I can't comment on the effectiveness of my mounting yet, since I've still just got one sensor until tomorrow - but I've mounted mine about 7 feet high on the wall (just above door frame height). When testing potential mounting spots, I found that any higher and tracking would get wobbly or that the Rift sensor setup would complain about being too far from the sensor.

I used these security camera mounts from Amazon (they sell them in both two packs and single packs, so I ended up buying three total). I like these because they can extend out from the wall with the included extensions and I needed that extra length because I have a really deep desk that would occlude tracking if they didn't stick out so far. Note that these mounts are probably too heavy to use with command strips, they really do need to be screwed in (I tested them with command strips just while I was trying them in different positions and three large command strips did hold the mount+sensor during testing, but didn't seem like it would hold reliably forever).

When testing different positions, I used DeskScene to visualize and test the tracking area. Note that it currently only works with one sensor, but the developer has said he's working on adding support for additional sensors.

I think if you have room for them on your desk, your desk doesn't occlude them when you crouch, and you can step far enough back from your desk when playing to be in their sweet spot, there's no special reason to mount them, though.

I highly recommend you hang them from the ceiling.
You can buy cheap camera mounts on amazon, and pickup a cable hider at home depot. it's cheap, there's no wire mess, it's easy to patch if you ever take it down, and you don't get tracking issues when you go low to the floor where the edge of the table would otherwise block the camera from seeing.
Here's examples,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=b2b_gw_d_bia_172282_a2_3_p/161-5249210-3309400?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001D49TU4&pd_rd_r=1N4N8EE6PTT5GCWWFQ7M&pd_rd_w=STdGU&pd_rd_wg=QlaPK&pf_rd_i=b2b-desktop&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1N4N8EE6PTT5GCWWFQ7M&pf_rd_t=ABGateway&refRID=1N4N8EE6PTT5GCWWFQ7M

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Wiremold-CordMate-Channel-White-C10/202059078

I bought a pair of these off Amazon. They arrived yesterday and they seem like they are going to work perfectly for mounting up on the wall for my cameras. Comes in a 2-pack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could just replace can switch one for one.

Or use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OUWABU?pc_redir=T1

Though I think that'd require each light to be a smart bulb/outlet.

It depends on your platform. I use SmartThings, you can set something up that when one light is turned on, others do as well. Kind of like grouping them as a scene selection. With other HA systems, you can set up where a quick double tap to one switch turns on others.

If you're on straight z wave, then you could use the GE zwave keypad and group scenes. It's a nice item, doesn't need a gang box, just mount to the wall. Available on Amazon.

No subscription needed, no service plan. You buy it, you get in trouble, you push a button, rescuers come looking for you.

https://smile.amazon.com/acr-2880-ResQlink-Non-Buoyant-PLB/dp/B005E1OU1A/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=plb&qid=1558019720&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The real LPT is always in the comments.

Get yourself a ResQLink. It's a button that calls emergency search and rescue, anywhere in the world, as long as you have line of sight to space.

And of course, always have a few basic emergency supplies in your car. A good blanket, a little food and water, a source of heat, fire extinguisher, etc. Basically a full bug-out bag.

These are the earmuffs I use:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-WorkTunes-Protector-Compatible-90541-4DC/dp/B0013092CS

My scanner is a Uniden BearCat BC125AT:

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Bearcat-Channel-Numeric-BC125AT/dp/B00772MR0K/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484609834&sr=8-1&keywords=BC125AT

The earmuffs have an aux in and the scanner has a headphone jack, so they work well together. In addition to 454.000 for the race call, with a little Googling you can also find the IMSA race control frequency and plug that in, and also some of the team radio channels. I know you can find the Corvette channels on the Corvette Racing Fans Facebook page before every race.

Interesting side note, IndyCar also had their commentary broadcast on 454.000 at Watkins Glen last year.

How long ago are you asking about?

It's hard to say without knowing the exact model of walkie-talkie you saw used. Some of the old CB walkie-talkies from the 60s-70s had extended AM mode that could pick up some aircraft traffic that was in the AM band. Most aircraft now that are talking to an airport or control center are using FM band. Getting more into the 90s and later, very few FRS or GMRS radios had the ability to monitor air band and weather radio frequencies.

What you may be remembering as a walkie-talkie might actually have just been a scanner. Something that looks a lot like a walkie-talkie but can't transmit to anyone, only listen (Amazon example) if you were around people that liked listening to that kind of stuff, thats the more likely answer.

You could always try calling the owner of the airport (should be public information) to see if they can pass the information along.

Alternately, you could buy a hand-held aviation radio and tune it to the CTAF (common traffic advisory frequency) for the airport. Most pilots will announce on the radio what they are doing at a uncontrolled airport. They are not required to, but it is safer to. This would potentially give you more warning about activity in the area allowing you to get your kite down before it is an issue. You can find the CTAF by looking up the airport in the AF/D (airport facility directory). Lookup the airport and it should have it listed.

"A scanner (also referred to a police scanner, police scanner radio or radio scanner) is a radio receiver that can automatically tune, or scan, two or more discrete frequencies, stopping when it finds a signal on one of them and then continuing to scan other frequencies when the initial transmission ceases. The terms radio scanner or police scanner generally refer to a communications receiver that is primarily intended for monitoring VHF and UHF landmobile radio systems, as opposed to, for instance, a receiver used to monitor international shortwave transmissions."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radio_scanner

Example: Bearcat Handheld Scanner

A key difference is that scanners are receive-only, where other types of radios can receive and transmit on public safety frequencies. And other types, like the cheap Baofengs, can receive but not transmit on public safety frequencies, even though they can transmit on amateur radio frequencies.

Please use clean amazon links. https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-BC125AT-Alpha-Tagged-channels-Lightweight/dp/B00772MR0K/

If you need to monitor multiple channels and you don't need to transmit, then what you're looking for is a scanner.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1VSO9M/

Unfortunately I don't know of any major race tracks that broadcast FM anymore. Even IMS used to until last year. And IndyCar radio doesn't seem to have FM affiliates in southern California.

http://indymotorspeedway.com/500broadcast.html

You can check if it updates by the end of the week.

http://indycarradio.com/index.php/fans/local-stations/

​

Your best bet is to rent a Racing Electronics scanner, or buy a UHF scanner and program yourself like a Uniden or Baofeng.

https://racingelectronics.com/collections/rentals/products/long-beach-indycar

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-BC75XLT-300-Channel-Handheld-Emergency/dp/B00A1VSO9M/

https://www.amazon.com/BaoFeng-UV-5R-Dual-Radio-Black/dp/B007H4VT7A

IMS Radio is usually 454.0000 most anywhere, Except Toronto which was 454.1000 last year.

I have an older version of this. https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-BC75XLT-Public-Scanner-Channels/dp/B00A1VSO9M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526171697&sr=8-1&keywords=nascar+scanner&refinements=p_89%3AUniden

This the Amazon link for the 10ft extension: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D

Male: 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.5mm (outer dia.) plug, Female: Accepts 1.3mm x 3.5mm plug

If you're good with soldering or slicing and twisting wires; I recommend this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O

I used it as an extension between breakout and headset but the plug should be same. I'm not at home so cannot confirm. Check with your breakout box. Cut the damaged part and use this one to connect it to breakout box.

These are the cables I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI?ie=UTF8&keywords=2m%20HDMI%20EXTENSION%20Cable%20Male%20to%20Female%20v1.4%203D%20High%20Speed%20With%20Ethernet%20BLACK&qid=1460783173&ref_=sr_1_fkmr3_3&sr=8-3-fkmr3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-Split-Sleeving-Ft-Black/dp/B007VSTFMI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Np, I overnighted a smaller sized one and I'll report back when I get it.

Edit: This is the correct one: http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-Extension-Foscam-Agasio-Wireless/dp/B00FT9VW0O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

Am a Hikvsion fan, personally.

• If you want good audio, install a microphone, as most outdoor-rated cams have terrible audio. Most NVRs have at least one analog audio in.
  
  
• Hikvision indoor cube (DS-2CD2432F), OTOH, has great audio.
  
  
• http://www.cnet.com/products/august-doorbell-cam/
  
  
• http://www.cepro.com/article/doorbird_is_best_diy_pro_doorbell_camera_for_home_automation_integration
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=pd_lpo_421_tr_t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6AFYZ2128T6J9T9K5QHF
  
  

If you google "ring doorbell fps" you'll find majority of different smart home blogs talking about 30fps. And then you have this press release mentioning it and the Ring's Amazon listing.

Though it looks like it's just the original Ring is 30fps, whereas the Ring 2 and Pro are 15. My bad.

I'm just wondering then why people with the original Ring on this thread are still reporting 15fps? So confusing. Sorry, just trying to figure things out before buying one.

TL;DR Wink Hub 2, Cheap Z-Wave Lock, Ring. Alexa with screen for added functionality. Check links below.

I recommend a wink hub 2 and a cheap $150 z-wave doorlock with a ring. As a bonus, if you don't already have one you can get a Alexa show (what I have) or spot to view the video feed from the doorbell and lock the door (unlocking functionality is not available so people cant tell through the door). Links Below.

Here's stuff I use:

Lock:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F1F1PY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PMIheKkvD1wxT

Hub:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4lTYAbNCH8TAT

Doorbell:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VkTYAb2ZMKX7Y

Echo Spot:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SQYXTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BoTYAbF56H4XE

Echo Show:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J24C0TI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gpTYAbRS910HE

The Ring Doorbell is a video system that lets you see and communicate with people at your door (even if you're not home). It is activated by motion censor, so you would know even if he comes around while you are out of the house.


P.S. Has anything new happened in the weeks since you originally posted this?

Plot twist, she wants [this ring](Ring Wi-Fi Enabled Video Doorbell in Satin Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A2iMAb48Y3598)

Here and here.

Use it wired or wirelessly. I use it wirelessly and it just needs charged every 3-5 months depending on the outside temp.

Well, you wouldn't mount a easily-stolen Nest cam lower down, but you can do an anti-vandal dome camera just above your door, or even something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2

There are a few versions of the those doorbell cameras, I'm not sure if all the bugs have been worked out yet. The key is placement above all else. If you can't see their face it's like adding insult to injury.

A few suggestions:

• Buy or build yourself a smart mirror https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh2EJzplkpM
  
  
  
• Build a TV that lifts out of the cabinet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WufyTO4UjTA
  
  
  
• Keyless Electronic locks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OHY14CS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00OHY14CS&linkCode=as2&tag=safewicom-20&linkId=Z2KL6WLN5NXT2EVA
  
  
  
• Connect your smartphone, tablet and pc to house hold appliances, lights, air-con, heaters, electric blinds and any other devices, so everything can be control from one station when at home and also when away from home.
  
  
  
• Wi-Fi enabled video doorbell https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2
  
  
  
• Amazon Echo https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Echo-Bluetooth-Speaker-with-WiFi-Alexa/dp/B00X4WHP5E
  
  
  
• Depending on where you live invest in solar panels and a Tesla power wall

I just got one of these and put it on the wall last night:

Omall (TM) Metal CCD Security Housing Mount Bracket for CCTV Camera

https://www.amazon.com/Omall-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/

It's really small and light. To mount it, I got some large velcro command strips and cut 2 in half, putting the tabs half on the wall:

Command Damage Free Picture and Frame Hanging, Large Strips

https://www.amazon.com/Command-Damage-Picture-Hanging-Strips/dp/B00404YKZI/

Works great and doesn't seem to have an issue holding the camera up. I'll update if it ever falls off, but I doubt it will.

I'll post a picture of it mounted tonight.

3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener SJ3560 250 Clear, 1 in x 6 Ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKTDMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZbVPAbP995C69

I used that and these mounts:

OdiySurveil (TM) Metal CCD Security Housing Mount Bracket for CCTV Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cdVPAbAYQ3Z36

No screws needed, and the Velcro hasn't moved a bit so there's no danger of your sensor falling.

They aren't tripods but they're very portable!

Give one of these a try. Point it out where your camera is (generally) and boom! Instant night vision! It automatically turns on at dusk

I use this one:

Tendelux 80ft IR Illuminator | AI4 No Hot Spot Wide Angle Infrared Light for ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_80CUDbP85W82X via @amazon

​

I leave it plugged in all the time and it allows the Quest to track perfectly in the dark. I just aim it up at the ceiling and it illuminates a whole bedroom. You may need more power to play outside though.

Supplemental IR motion lights are great!

Looking at your image you might want to consider this fixture. I have five of this units with no issues. I just purchase power cord extensions to mount the units where I need it. Also, a light source should always be mounted behind or above the camera to avoid the white-haze effect on the videos.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYG89D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With IR lighting please keep in mind that too bright of a light source will create an over saturated image and you the details will be washed out. Example you will see the person but the face might be unrecognizable as it may be white-washed.

​

Have fun!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075ZYG89D/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1 would something like this work for Quest tracking in the dark? I hate having my overhead lights in at night, and this would be handy for outdoor parties that go on after dusk, it it will work like I hope.

Back Porch option (2.) Install a motion sensor porch light as a deterrent. If you're crafty you can wire it so a light just inside the door turns on at the same time (makes it seem like someone is there. If you can add a 5 second delay to the indoor light you're golden).

Buy one of those locks with anti-theft guarantees. I know Kryptonite has one (http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Documents/TERMS_AND_CONDITIONS.pdf). Not sure how legit it is, but it may give you some peace of mind.

I'm sure you could rig one of these up: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Smart-Home-Alarm-50246/dp/B0000YNR4M/ref=cts_ap_1_fbt
Loud as hell, would likely give anyone trying to mess with your bike a startle.

I have a couple of these on a sliding glass door. They work pretty well and they are sensitive enough to trigger when you're opening the door. Problem is if my cat messes with them they can go off.

As for door opening something like this or this

Now granted I'm no guru when it comes to home defense. I live in a nice area where people can leave their bikes out over night unlocked and expect them to be there in the morning.

I have insurance so if I do get robbed I'm covered. I have valuables secured as best as I can since i'm renting. My concern is when my gf or I are home and someone tries to get in or something I want to be awake.

I recommend this...

http://www.amazon.com/50246-Smart-Home-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

This is great.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414077427&sr=8-1&keywords=door+stop+alarm

What you want is a door stop alarm, they're good for travel too.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Door-Alarm/dp/B0000YNR4M

I don't remember the brand name but it was similar to this but less money from Dollarama.

Congratulations! I recently moved into my own place and have found a few things that helped.


Depending on your budget, I'd recommend the Canary ($200). It's a wireless camera that instantly alerts you if there's any activity in your house while you're away. You can also check in via wireless video at any time.


I also use a door alarm for extra peace of mind while I'm home.


I now always carry readily-accessible pepper spray and a small flashlight when I'm going out or coming home in the dark.


A final random tip: I keep my energy bill low by using a space heater in the room I'm hanging out in.


Hope that helps! Best of luck with the new place. :)

Note: If this seems scrambled, it's because I'm just jotting things down as I think of them.

First off, you need to worry about your own well-being. Remember that she has conditioned you to be afraid of her - without that conditioning, she is just an angry and vindictive woman... And that's nothing to be afraid of in and of itself. Before I go any further, here is something that might help you sleep at night. Just put one at each of your exterior doors. They're 120db, (which, for reference, is louder than many car horns,) so they'll wake up everything, including you and probably even your neighbors. I've heard that they might not work as well on hardwood floors (because they'll simply slide instead of jamming under the door,) but putting something heavy (like a book) behind it helps to mitigate this. If you need something more immediate, (instead of waiting on shipping,) you may try checking Walmart/Target, or your local home improvement stores.

It's a very good thing that your brother is there to back you up (and to let you know that shit hit the fan.) It'll be an early warning system to let you know when to expect her to be angry. After all, she likely won't react very well to it, and will come after anyone who she thinks might have ratted her out. Remember that she won't know for sure, since the report will be anonymous. They may not even tell her why she's being investigated. If that's the case, you can even say that you have no idea what she's talking about, and that maybe one of the neighbors said something. Here are some tips to reduce worrying when shit hits the fan though...

If she shows up at your house, don't open the door. Tell her to go away through the door. Just keep your door locked, and yell it through. We all know that she won't leave though - N's don't take kindly to boundaries, and a locked door in their face is about as solid a boundary as you can set. They love to push at those boundaries, to see just how much they can realistically get away with. Don't let her try and coerce you into opening it - She is an abuser who has you in her cross-hairs. You don't owe her anything. This is why you move on to step two: Calling the cops.

Just call the cops, and let them handle things. It's really that simple. She can scream at your door all she wants, but it won't do any good, (and will actually serve to strengthen your case against her.) If they ask, you do want to make a report. If they don't ask, tell them to make one - A police report while she is being investigated by the foster care group? That's an open-and-shut case. If she shows up again, just lather, rinse, and repeat. This sends a clear message that you won't let her push your boundaries.

Here's what to expect from the cops: The first time, they'll simply tell her to stop making a disturbance, and to go away. If she flat out refuses, they may even arrest her for something like trespassing or harassment, just to get her out of your hair. They'll tell you to give them a call if she shows back up, and will do a report about it. Get a copy of the report. The second time they'll do the same, but they'll be a little more forceful. This is why you get a report every time it happens - After the second or third time, you can file for a restraining order against her, using the reports as evidence to back up your case. This means that if she shows up again after being served the order, (which is likely... Again, N's loathe boundaries, and will see exactly how far you let them cross yours,) they actually have a crime to arrest her for.

Next up: Phone calls. You mentioned that you had some blocked callers. If she does get through and call you, simply tell her to stop, and that any further calls will be considered harassment. Don't let her talk over you or interrupt you. Simply say that any further calls will be considered harassment, and that she needs to stop immediately. Then write down the time and date of the call, with a brief summary. It doesn't need to be super detailed, as long as it sums things up accurately. Be systematic - Every time she calls, tell her to stop harassing you, and write it down. Again: Be methodical. After three or four calls, you can get (at best) a restraining order, or (if they won't let you get the restraining order) a no-contact order - This is why you were methodical in your notes. Courts will happily take your notes as evidence as long as you were consistent in how you dealt with it. If all this sounds like too much, you can always just get another SIM and use that - Just remember to be selective in who you give your number to, otherwise she may end up getting a hold of it again.

Half the price and insanely loud!

Yay! Alarm!

Time to get one of these - http://amzn.com/B0000YNR4M

Opposite corners, up as high as you can, so they're looking down at you seems to work best if you want 360 coverage with 2 sensors. Unfortunately, that'll probably require you to get extension cables, but they aren't that expensive. The front facing setup that Oculus recommends is really fast and really easy, but losing the ability to turn around in VR really hurts the experience, imo.

If you are able to buy a couple extension cables, I'd really consider trying to get them all the way up in a top corner of the room. You may want to consider a third sensor if you really want to go full room scale, too. I have three sensors mounted up high in 3 out of the 4 corners of my room (2 in front, one in back) and tracking is essentially flawless. It's a little bit of extra work to actually mount something to the wall, but it's worth it if you're setting it up for the long run. I used these mounts.

Having extension cables also gives you extra room to work with so that you can properly route the cables in a neat way instead of having them just hanging loose on the wall. I bought some cable concealers and they pretty much blend into the wall, so you really just see the sensor itself. Looks a lot nicer.

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Security-Adjustable-Universal-Mounting/dp/B000IDCDZY/ref=pd_cp_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000IDCDZY&pd_rd_r=4Y85RGZ7BJW8N9YKBHH8&pd_rd_w=BhBTj&pd_rd_wg=KOKY6&psc=1&refRID=4Y85RGZ7BJW8N9YKBHH8

I went with these. The combined weight with the Rift sensors is still light enough to be very firmly secured with simple thumbtacks!

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Security-Adjustable-Universal-Mounting/dp/B000IDCDZY/ref=pd_sim_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000IDCDZY&pd_rd_r=VW3ZRS6XAWNFQM5QTWW1&pd_rd_w=nWrLD&pd_rd_wg=y8hCq&psc=1&refRID=VW3ZRS6XAWNFQM5QTWW1

If the Kinect bottom does indeed have 1/4 20 thread...I am spraying something like this off white to match my wall trim on my wainscoting just under the wall mounted TV. Just Amazon search Camera mounts and possible put it right above the TV on the wall, may get you an extra 12 inches space back.

http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Security-Adjustable-Universal-Mounting/dp/B000IDCDZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382819536&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+20+Camera+Mount

You're using it for its intended purpose as a camera mount

I'm using 3 of These without power adapters and a AmazonBasic for my 4th. Cables can be hit and miss, It depends on your rig.
These are the CCTV mounts I'm using for my sensors.

Pretty simple really. Just uses a simple tripod mount system. You could even but to cheap tripods from wallmart.

Snake

Simple

What i do is use these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with some of this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SRECEU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works flawlessly and its nice to have varying lengths of mounts.

The tape also wont rip off paint and stucco like command strips will.

You can buy real mounts made for cameras, made out of metal for $9. Comes with full range of motion joints.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oculus Rift Facial Interface & Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/

Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx

I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.

Depending on how much room is between the TV and the mantle I would mount the Kinect under the TV with this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When my autistic daughter was younger, we got these. It would be hard to find a solution much cheaper. It worked well enough - they're loud enough to be heard from a few rooms away. It's not "smart" but it's very cheap and reasonably effective.

Though if you already have everything set up through zwave and wifi, maybe you just need to add a z-wave siren to the mix? Though none of the ones on Amazon seem to have good reviews.

Yes, they do need wifi. If all you want a loud sound when it opens you can just get this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Protection-Installation-Apartment-45115/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=door+alarm&qid=1566172179&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Seconding the renters insurance!! Depending on the company/coverage it can cover things stolen from your car while on the property (I only know this cause my car got broken into last night lol) you can insure any of your more expensive items for a pretty reasonable price.

Also I got some door alarms like this for my front and back doors.

I'm not too surprised she wouldn't think anything of someone taking the car. The car comes and goes, that isn't unusual, and she may have forgotten that it is your car, not the neighbors (not saying the neighbors were the ones that took it, but she may have thought the car was theirs, so it wasn't something she had to worry about). I'm more worried that she might wander out on her own, let someone in the house, or leave the door unlocked. So my suggestions are going to be aimed at keeping her safe.

Door chimes, so she can't sneak out.

Consider the locks:
This does not mean you should change the locks in your loved one’s home so that they can never leave, but instead, have them moved to a higher or lower position on the door. If your loved one has to bend down or stand on their tippy-toes to reach the door lock, they will have a harder time opening doors. This small amount of extra effort gives them enough time to stop and think about why they’re trying to open the door, often giving themselves time to realize they have no reason to leave, and instead deciding to stay inside the safety of the house. Simply put, keeping locks out of eyesight leads to less chance they will wander outside of their home.

Motion sensor lights, both inside and out. Inside, they keep her from getting hurt because she forgot to turn on the lights. Outside, the regular reason for having motion lights.

And become more than passing acquaintances with you neighbors. If they are people you can trust (won't take advantage of her condition), let them know the basics of her condition and invite them over for coffee so she can get to know them. If they know what is going on, they are more likely to check in if they see something unusual, and if she has met them a few times, even if she can't remember who they are, she will be more likely to respond positively if they catch her wandering. Also, neighbors can be great security systems.

While not as exciting, OP could install one of these in her cabinet in case MIL is every back in her house (or really just because they're cheap and should deter anyone).

I ment something like this but with the alarm in my home rather than right next to the sensor
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Personal-Security-Window-Alarm/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417561181&sr=8-1&keywords=window+sensor

That was one of my personal fears. In addition to the toddler proof door knob cover we used some of the cheap stick on door alert sensors that beep loudly when the door is opened.

I'm really in need of some window alarms because I recently moved into a new apartment in a bad part of my town. I'm constantly worried about break-ins because two of my windows could easily be broken into.

My cat doesn't have a breakaway collar, and I'd really like for her to have one, just in case she gets hung up on something when I'm not around, she can break free.

Knives are not a good self defense tool. I train in combat sports and we train in knife fighting and all i can say is EVERYONE in a knife fight gets seriously hurt.


Pepper spray is my self defense tool of choice. Can be used without being in arms reach of an assailant. If u want something by the bed, u can get a roll of industrial velcro from the hardware store and pepper spray and attach a pepper spray to the side of ur bed frame or bed side table.

U can get vibration alarms for the windows to sound the alarm if a window is broken. And/or window alarms meant for opened windows. A good heavy duty lock for the door.

SABRE Window Glass Alarm - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M30SN2W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_65kRub18SXRDN

GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm (2 pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_56kRub1PY1582

SABRE RED Pepper Spray - Police Strength - Compact, Pink Case with Quick Release Key Ring (Max Protection - 25 shots, up to 5X's more) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CZ9MRY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_27kRub1KJRNWX

VIPERTEK VTS-989 - 19,000,000 V Heavy Duty Stun Gun - Rechargeable with LED Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPE6UN2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Q9kRub133N6RA

Something like this maybe? Or this?

I had the same problem. I got these. My little brother hates the sound and learned fast!

GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm, 2-Pack, DIY Home Protection, Burglar Alert, Wireless Alarm, Off/Chime/Alarm, Easy Installation, Ideal for Home, Garage, Apartment, Dorm, RV and Office, 45115 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00178HMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g1lRCbHGF2FCB

these are cheap and have a chime function, GE Personal Security Door Alarm i THINK you can hook them up to a central door alarm, but I'm not 100% sure.

GE Personal Security Window/Door Alarm (2 pack)

Yes. There are a few different styles and options.

door alarms

These are the ones we got.

Yessss 100%! I mounted my 2 sensors to the ceiling, and now I'm able to track all the way down to the floor with no issues. Love it. Will definitely install the 3rd sensor the same way.

For anyone wondering what mount I used (idk, I lurk alot and this would help me lol):

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=pd_sim_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001D49TU4&pd_rd_r=PRWR7G0B6X8WPC0RDBTE&pd_rd_w=9Vk3H&pd_rd_wg=dViLD&psc=1&refRID=PRWR7G0B6X8WPC0RDBTE

these are the mounts he's using. I have the same

The room is 11'x12'
No bed however there is a couch which takes up some valuable space.
I used wall bushings that I sawed partially in half with a dremel so that I could slip the cable into it without having to cut the USB head off. I also had to soak the bushing is boiling water to soften it up a bit for bending. It makes the hole in the ceiling very clean. The hole itself was drilled just wide enough to get the USB head through. I'll post some pics soon of the wires. :)
Here is a list of parts.
Ceiling Mounts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall Bushings
https://www.amazon.com/Single-Feed-Thru-Bushings-package-CIMPLE/dp/B01EKG1K1W/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EKG1K1W&pd_rd_r=69VB8HQYJYJ1ABYZDDNH&pd_rd_w=kvX5u&pd_rd_wg=VNk2q&psc=1&refRID=69VB8HQYJYJ1ABYZDDNH
StarTech 4 port PCI Express
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 16 feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just finished playing 15 levels of Brookhaven Experiment (amazing game), 3 sensors is all you need. I have two in the front corners on tri-pods roughly 5 feet from the ground and 8 feet apart angled toward the center of the play space and one rear center mounted 6" down from a 8' celing with this mount approximately 13 feet from the front. I know this isn't the recommended setup, I plan to try a few setups and decide what I like best. I had a 4th sensor on order but I decided to cancel it since 3 sensors works so well. My play space is roughly 9' x 9' right now, the only time I notice any goofiness is when I'm facing one of the rear corners and slowly turning, the handoff from one sensor to the next makes my pistol move in or out about 3-4 inches. It's not noticeable when I'm playing the game, just when I'm slowly rotating to test tracking.

Anyone try these?

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Security-Brackets-Surveillance/dp/B000IDBXBO/ref=pd_cp_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JMGQNPX89RY99N0DF9PD


Or These

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Installation-Surveillance-1SG/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481039147&sr=8-3&keywords=ceiling+mount+camera

This
https://smile.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Installation-Surveillance-1SG/dp/B001D49TU4

This is what I went with. It's a 2-pack so I'm ready for when touch comes out.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just for variety, this is what I got. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its a pack of two, so there's one for when the touch comes out. I've been happy with mine so far.

I bought these and they've held up with just three thumb tacks since December with zero issues https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001D49TU4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these with the 3M Command strips right now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thumbtacks in the screw holes to mount to the wall with minimal destruction.

The sensors can be unscrewed from the bases, then you can use standard CCTV mounts if that's more convenient for you.
I could not get mine unscrewed though, so ymmv.
Other users have used mounts like these.
I personally built an overhead mount from k'nex that is self supporting and sits on shelves/doorframe, so I didn't have to drill into the wall/ceiling, but something like that can get very time consuming and bulky depending on how big your room is.

I've ordered some of these Command Picture Hanging strips and a couple security camera mounts that I'm going to try to use with the Rift's sensor(s).

The picture hanging strips should allow for moving the second sensor from one corner to another if necessary. E.g. game "A" works best with two front mounted sensors but game "B" works best with opposite corner mounted sensors... In theory I should be able to detach a camera and reattach it in the desired location without much fuss and without making a lot of holes in the wall.

I use these mounts with command strips for my sensors. Two strips per mount and they seem very stable

I screwed my sensors into these mounts, then used heavy duty velcro on the wall and the back of the mounts to secure them on the walls.

Here is what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00481GFH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A2AGZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd recommend wall or ceiling mounting them.

Use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Affordable and can be held in place with thumbtacks, so no drilling worries. Just shorten them to their shortest length and they'll work great

Mounts used in this video: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is correct, I had bought these to mount them upside down on my ceiling, and have one of them on a 2 meter USB 3.0 active extension cable. I've played through several different experiences, and no jumps anymore so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/

I used the below graphic as the basis for my new setup (making sure not to go past the listed measured distances.
http://cdn.uploadvr.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/oculus-3-sensor.jpg

We will have to agree to disagree. Do it right the first time. If you are doing room scale take the 15 minutes it took me to mount my sensors in the corners. It literally took me 15 minutes. Get a latter or stool and hold the sensor mount base up in the corner with about 2 or 3 inches of space from each wall and mark the 3 holes with a marker in each corner. Then go to each corner and drill the 3 holes that are the correct size for the drywall anchors you will use in each corner. Then install the drywall anchors then the mounting plate then screw the sensors to the plates. Then plug in your sensors. Done. Then you don't have to worry about bumping sensors or the table the sensors are on or re-calibrating you setup.

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you for the suggestion. I went ahead and placed a mount above my computer, but I guess since it's so close and high the tracking is a little wonky. I can mount the sensor back onto it's original mount when i want to do a sit down session. These are the mounts I'm using

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes they are, and that's the problem. The way this switch/receptacle is wired up, I can't separate the outlets and have only one be controlled by the switch unless I want to replace the wiring between the switch and outlet. That's what I was trying to avoid.

What about something like this conroller with the receptacle I posted in the OP?

Your worst case scenario is to put 2 remote zwave switches up in the ceiling fan. This will require bypassing the remote module in the fan, and wiring the lights driectly to one of these zwave switches. Secondly, You would remove the wall switch as it won't help this setup (wire it straight through and put a cover on the box.) And finally, you would still have to use the original remote to control fan speed. Maybe put a zwave scene controller panel over the unused wall switch box.

If you open the wall switch box and you find that 14-3 wire was run between the switch and fan, then your options just got alot better. You could expand the box to be 2 gangs, Put in a zwave switch for the lights, zwave fan controller, and send the power down that the black wire, and the other the red. You'll still have to bypass the fan's remote control module, but now for the fan and the lights as the zwave in wall fan controller will handle the speed.

Any smart switch or dimmer functions by replacing the existing switch with a relay or dimmer, and that relay is controller by the buttons on the front of the switch. When you say multi-zone, are you talking about multi-way? As in, 3-way, 4-way, etc? In that case, the idea is not to control multiple loads from one location, but rather, one load from multiple locations. If you want to control multiple loads from one location, you could pick up some aeotech micro switches for each fixture, and associate those to a scene controller, like this one.

Put in zwave outlets and get an in-wall scene controller. You can set up "macros" (aka scenes) that control the outlets via the zwave radio.

$30ish per outlet, $40+ for a controller. The one below is mediocre but tie it to ge outlets and it should so fine.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Controller/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504920314&sr=8-1&keywords=Zwave+scene+controller

These?
In the Q&A somebody said it was fully compatible for ST, but not sure I believe them, lol

I think instead of wireless switches, you could use a motion or other sensor..?

You can get 4-zone wall controllers.

Like this. GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_MopxwbJ3M98R3

Then get one of these for each group you want to control

Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_LppxwbZ9DQ7SX

That should do it. You might need an electrician to safely install the relays for each group.

I had that exact same issue in our house and I used it as an excuse reason to start some home automation. I installed zwave switches and then some keypad controllers to be able to control the lights from more normal locations.

I also had secondary switches (second switch on a three-way setup) that annoyingly controlled things that weren't the closest, so I was able to use auxiliary switches and set them to control what I wanted them to.

But all that said, Lutron makes great stuff and based on the comments from /u/jehovahs_waitress if they have an option that makes sense, it would be much easier to do that than to start the path of home automation.

Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-45631-Z-Wave-Wireless-Controller/dp/B003OUWABU


Folks seem to rave about the HomeSeerer switches as they support multi-taps for scenes.

Can you explain that more detailed? I was looking at getting either this ge one or this enerwave
What else would I need to connect them to wink?
Alternative option, would they work right away with smartthings?

That's the standard MSRP. When I got it there was a mail in rebate for 50 bucks, but they don't really get that much of a discount often. I've never really seen them on sale at any retailer.

Note though, the one you linked is the floating version is a a bit bulkier. If you're not going to be around water often it might be best to get the normal version. You can always tether a float to it if you're going on a rafting trip or something.

This is the non-floating version:
http://smile.amazon.com/ACR-PLB-375-Personal-Locating-Beacon/dp/B005E1OU1A/ref=sr_1_4?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1464290136&sr=8-4&keywords=resqlink%2B

I took my first backpacking trip solo. Consider dropping money on a personal locator beacon--they're expensive, but you may find a bargain on eBay. I use a Res-Q-Link:

​

https://www.amazon.com/acr-2880-ResQlink-Non-Buoyant-PLB/dp/B005E1OU1A

Its not an app or service but one option is to carry something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ACR-PLB-375-Personal-Locating-Beacon/dp/B005E1OU1A

I carry one when touring in case I ever wind up in a ditch but am still able to move enough to activate it.

I just picked this guy from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E1OU1A/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Its the a good size. I am flying across Lake Michigan and Erie these days so I thought I better have one. What life raft did you pick up.

I got one off of Ebay for 200 bucks. It was as 10 years old looked like total crap. I thought no way am I betting my life on this. So I was going to toss it in the trash. But before I got rid of it I pulled the cord. Dammit it work perfectly.

uniden bc-125at, can't recommend enough for the price point

This is exactly what I used for a long time. The only hiccup is that Baofeng can be complicated to program if you're not used to ham radios or scanners.

​

Now I use a Uniden Bearcat125AT. I like it because it's easy to program either manually or via your computer, it has alpha tags and there's a weather (WRX) pre-programmed that is always useful to have when the gray clouds are looming.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-BC125AT-Alpha-Tagged-Emergency-Lightweight/dp/B00772MR0K/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3DGMTQC0YES0L&keywords=uniden+bearcat+scanner&qid=1563205158&s=gateway&sprefix=uniden+bearcat%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-3

this is so very helpful thank you very much for your detailed answer. i guess i mispoke, to clarify, i want to listen to the entire san gabriel valley dispatch (going from pasadena to duarte). i live in pasadena specifically. so to simplify all this in my mind, i can buy:

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Bearcat-Channel-Numeric-BC125AT/dp/B00772MR0K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465509830&sr=8-1&keywords=Uniden+BC125AT

Which is the Uniden BC125AT.

and listen to both pasadena and los angeles county police stations? i'm just trying to wrap my head around all of this. once again thanks

It scans slower than a dedicated scanner does, but it's reasonably fast. I haven't been in the scanner market for awhile now, so I don't have any suggestions based on personal use, but here are a few from some quick searching:

Uniden BC75XLT will do VHF/UHF and airband, Uniden Bearcat 500 does the same plus military aircraft, and the Uniden BD396XT does the same, plus trunk tracking.

Buy a scanner on Amazon and bring headphones. The Racing Radios kiosks have handouts on frequencies, or you can commonly find them online.

This is the one I took to Talladega last year and it worked great.

http://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Bearcat-Channel-Numeric-BC125AT/dp/B00772MR0K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457803937&sr=8-2&keywords=bearcat+scanner

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-BC125AT-Military-Aircraft-Channels/dp/B00772MR0K/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503030699&sr=1-5&keywords=police+scanner

This is the particular one I have. They're quite fun if you're frequently bored.

This https://www.amazon.ca/Uniden-Handheld-Scanner-Black-BC75XLT/dp/B00A1VSO9M/ but I don't see why it would work. It doesn't scan every frequency

You can read about it here. It is between 108 and 137 MHz and is AM modulated. Like 2gigch1 said, you need a good antenna. Here is an homemade antenna that works great for me. If it's for plane spotting you can buy an handheld like the Uniden BC75XLT. The better the line of sight, the better the signal will be. If you go the SDR route, there is an awesome project: rtl_airband (works great on raspberry pi). Have fun!

http://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Handheld-Scanner-Black-BC75XLT/dp/B00A1VSO9M

I didn't realize how much having a scanner adds to my kit, it's way more convenient to see who is on the air at any given moment, especially when you are unsure of the repeaters that are in range.

Scrolled through the replies, so I won't repeat what everybody else has said as they are all correct. But I didn't see anybody mention getting a Weather Radio. Here's the one I have (non-affiliate link, and not promoting anything):


https://www.amazon.com/Midland-WR300-MIDLAND-Weather-Radio/dp/B00009V2YV


You can set the alerts to cover not only your county, but those near you. I have mine set to alert on the counties to the southwest, west, and northwest of my county so that as storms develop I know what's coming. (Storms always track from West to East. And NORMALLY track Southwest to Northeast, but sometimes track from Northwest to Southeast.) When the radio alerts on a county that is west of us, I flip on the TV and start monitoring radar. The radio has a LOUD alarm so it will wake you up in the middle of the night if there is sever weather when you're sleeping.

TV channels to watch, 4, 5, or 9. Each one has pros and cons, so pick the person who is the least annoying to you. I flip between all three as their storm trackers are scattered all over the state during severe weather.

Also, if your the technical kind of person, get a scanner and monitor the Amateur (Ham) Radio repeaters. The storm chasers will use ham radio to report back to the National Weather Center in Norman. These folks are on the ground and will know what's going on before anybody else. You can normally find out about a tornado on the ground about 90 seconds earlier than they report on the news channels. Here's a good handheld scanner:


https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-BC75XLT-300-Channel-Handheld-Emergency/dp/B00A1VSO9M/ref=zg_bs_172530_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4X5AMGKE7X3W7Z5NRNE3


The frequency to monitor with your scanner is 145.41. This is the WX5OKC repeater and is connected to a network of radio towers all over the state. This is the repeater that the Weather Center in Norman will monitor for updates from storm chasers, so it's usually pretty quiet except during severe weather. As an added bonus, the scanner will also pick up the different weather radio frequencies (pre-programmed), which can give you an update on warnings and watches.

Uniden BC75XLT

I'm looking at this one here, Worth buying?

Uniden's scanners have a cheaper street price, and more features.

Will I have success with the 60 dollar ones or will I end up returning it to get a more expensive one?

To me 60 bucks isn't all that bad when you are used to seeing 200-400 for them.

I was thinking something like this Amazon

Unless you're above ground in the outer boroughs, I don't think it would be reliable for live audio. You will either have dropouts between stations, or high latency. Or both. Try an inexpensive scanner.

Other people said they were using this cable. https://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCA12-Extension-Foscam-Wireless/dp/B00FT9VW0O

That claims to support up to 3amps. I don't remember what the vive adapter states, you will have to look.

You would just cut off the female end, strip the wires, and screw them into that male adapter. Or if you wanted, get a second shorter cable and make a male to male to leave the longer extension intact.

At the advice of another post I just bought these to extend the cable from the linkbox to the headset by 10 feet.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCA12-Extension-Foscam-Wireless/dp/B00FT9VW0O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Just received them last evening and had no problems in Holopoint or Space Pirate Trainer. Put up new high scores in both of them actually =D

I was also advised to get some 1/4" cable sleeving for them, but the advised product did not fit around the HDMI header. I had some other sleeving at home so I just used that.

Had the same issue (though on level 30 >.<). Here's now I fixed it:

I purchased 10' extensions for the HDMI/USB/Audio cables and then (this is key) wrapped them in these.

A costly upgrade but I haven't had a single wire issue since. You still get wrapped up if you're not careful but it's easy enough between rounds to see which way you need to turn during the next round to undo it.

Here's my stream from last night when I got rank #3, you can see my wire setup and technique for monitoring it (skip around).

Here is a very old thread about the sizes for the power connectors: https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4e3qft/size_of_dc_power_connector_for_link_box/d3pmpyw?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x

​

>Thanks! Please let me know what you find. Luckily, my son just got back from college ...with a digital calipers.
>
>They confirm power AFTER the breakout is 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.5mm (outer dia.) like this cable I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCA12-Extension-Foscam-Wireless/dp/B00FT9VW0O
>
>And the power IN to the breakout appears to be 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.75mm (outer dia.) And this roughly agrees with my caveman assessment: it feels like I can cram the breakout A/C adapter into the extension cable above, but I can't quite - even with some force.
>
>But, I don't see an extension cable like than anywhere. Mouser has a 1.3x3.7 connector, and a few 1.3x3.8 connectors. 1.35 inner diameter also seems to be popular. This stuff is all new to me.

Does the DC cable need to go into the Link box to power the USB or HDMI? If not couldn't you bypass the link box for power and connect it to a female to male extension.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1MJXBMMDKYADG
Just a thought.

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

I was able to make a 10 foot extension from my headset to my Link Box using these three cables gave me a total of 25 feet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C4SECG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7SA21U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not home atm so cant take pics. Ill try to do that tomorrow but if you dont hear back just cokment on this tread again to remind me id be more than happy to show you. Here are the three cables i purchased, id recommend only these three as i had to do some research because a lot of lower quality cables will cause latency or simply not work at all also, any more than 10 feet will cause issues as hdmi cables dont transfer data over long distances very well. The towel rack and shower rings where purchased at a local home improvment store so no links for those but you can find those at any walmart target lowes etc.

Cables:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1MJXBMMDKYADG
ox_sc_act_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

I'm not sure what he uses, but I use these....

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1KDE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I put an extension between the linkbox and the headset cable for a larger play area a little ways away from my computer I used the following cable for the power:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This is NOT the cable you need since it is female on one end and male on the other end, whereas you need male connectors on both ends if you are going from the linkbox to the headset directly, but it might at least point you in the right direction. Also, I haven't pulled the cable loose from the headset in a while, but the shape of the surrounding plastic on connector end at the headset may be critical as it is a tight fit next to the other connectors.

​

Hope this helps.

​

Hi,

If you want a primer on current security camera technology, my guide to IP cameras may help. As you will find though, I am not one who recommends storing everything on the cloud.

For a doorbell, if you want a ready to use device, consider the Ring Doorbell. If you are happy to go the DIY home automation route, you can use a standard bell linked to a home automation gateway device which can then pretty much trigger any event/action you need. Eg. Play a sound through your home theatre or SONOS, take a picture from the security camera and email to your phone, send a push notification to your phone, automatically play a recorded greeting etc. An example of a gateway device is the Vera Plus.

In fact this is going to be my next project!

Daniel

https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Doorbell-Nickel/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537948935&sr=8-2&keywords=ring+doorbell

Would you recommend this one ?

Y'all need this in your life: ERA Ring Smartphone Wi-Fi Enabled Video Door Bell With Motion Alert https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3avxwb88K3H72
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3avxwb88K3H72

Would have been a deal at 25% off perhaps. The video quality just doesn't seem to be quite on par with the Ring video doorbell. Is the Skybell not able to record yet?

At the same price I feel much happier with the Ring: http://www.amazon.com/Ring-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Video-Doorbell/dp/B00N2ZDXW2

as the topic, they go out of their way to remove all bad comments and then flood any complaints with glowing responses like yours (funny that) The units are badly designed and badly coded and their support is just copy paste responses as they Know they cannot fix the issues that people have.

Edit: as you mention Amazon quick look and oh https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-88RG000FC01-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Doorbell-Satin-Chrome/product-reviews/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt_rgt?filterByStar=critical&pageNumber=1

So I guess what are you saying is all these people are idiots? and even if that's the case it's a bloody doorbell it should by design be idiot proof you don't need a PhD to install a doorbell.

These are the mounts we used, and a lot cheaper than the ones linked on the wiki: OdiySurveil (TM) Metal CCD Security Housing Mount Bracket for CCTV Camera


We also bought this 3.0 USB Anker port as I was under the impression we would need it and it was recommended on a thread. We actually ended up not needing it, but we still have it available in case we need to free up usb slots. I would double check on other threads that it does indeed work before just taking my word for it, as I haven't tested it yet personally

hmm, I might use THIS or THIS as a secondary mount point to try to reduce jitter.

It's a standard camera tripod mount. You can use any camera mount.

​

For example, https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Compatible/dp/B00R96X9DS/

​

But really any mount anything that uses the standard tripod screw.

You could wall mount them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_z3i1Cb87YNTCV

https://imgur.com/gallery/qIbQBB5

Retractable with great height, even with this low entertainment block. 😼🎶
Should work with either generation PS4 camera; just remove its stand.

I made one of the mount holes large enough (with a small drill bit.. ideally you'd have the proper bit size 🥴) to fit my TV's bolt. If yours is smaller screen size it may have smaller bolts.

The parts:

• https://www.amazon.com/UBeesize-Extendable-Monopod-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B0746B6GP9/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Compatible/dp/B00R96X9DS/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/TR-Industrial-TR88302-Multi-Purpose-Cable/dp/B01018DC96/

USB Extension

USB card (This is the only one I've seen that is recommended. I need it because I don't have enough ports.)

Wallmlounts

Accessories total: $56
Oculus total:$497
Vive total:$500

okay, here's the one you have to screw in..
https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=pd_sbs_107_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00R96X9DS&pd_rd_r=QD18FRG94T99E1Q8PKKM&pd_rd_w=i6gCI&pd_rd_wg=ohKIZ&psc=1&refRID=QD18FRG94T99E1Q8PKKM

and here's the one with the adhesive strip...
https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Thread-Double-Sided-Adhesive-Universal/dp/B00BPRLNQ2/ref=pd_sbs_63_20?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BPRLNQ2&pd_rd_r=Q1DBD2A99SR8ZS8TBNR7&pd_rd_w=3xKk2&pd_rd_wg=N5V0U&refRID=Q1DBD2A99SR8ZS8TBNR7&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Thread-Double-Sided-Adhesive-Universal/dp/B00QSFKJ8E/ref=sr_1_12?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1481588853&sr=8-12&keywords=saddle+dash+cam+holder

It's an Amazon seller, I ordered 3 of them and only received 2 of them so I can't say I recommend buying from that seller, but I do recommend the product. They are nice and strong, which is unfortunate that I didn't get all 3.

I placed an order for this one for my 3rd sensor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which is almost the same, but doesn't have the 3M adhesive. I suppose I could buy my own adhesive, or I can use 3 thumb tacks as I've seen people do with these.

Omall (TM) Metal CCD Security Housing Mount Bracket for CCTV Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Olqsyb7666GDV

Just sold out. But very small and cheap wall mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_VgXbBbZGKXSYZ

I stuck them up with two medium size 3M Command strips each instead of drilling in my rental. They've been rock solid since August, so I can recommend this method!

These worked great for me as far as the mounting goes. The 3M strips did work for ceiling mounting it, even though the bottom isn't flat. Eventually, after a month or so of testing I will probably screw them in.

I'd also invest in some cable hiders because while the mounted sensors look great, the wires look like shit running all around my room lol.

If you don't mind hanging it on your wall you can get something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R96X9DS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title), or use one of the wall mounts that came with your base stations. You could also use a tripod or something.

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have a 3D print shot near you, these are pretty cool
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1632488

I have all 4 of my sensors mounted 7 ft up, I have switched back to only using 3 till I get this issue resolved.

I tried using the cable matters 16ft active USB 3.0 cable for one of my fronts sensors but it wouldnt detect as 3.0, so I swapped it for the 10ft passive one and it worked fine.

Here are the mounts and cable I have had success with:
Mount-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft USB 3.0 cable-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

sure. I bought two of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and just used drywall anchors I had to mount then on the wall my computer is on.

So it's tough for your space since it's pretty small. Given the furniture you have that could interfere I would probably place the one camera centered on the wall above your bed up near the ceiling and angled towards the center of your play area, and the other centered above your window near the ceiling.

Generally having them in opposite corners (this is how mine are) would be better, but your cabinets would get in the way. You might have some issues since you will be fairly close to the camera, but I think you can get away with it.

My cameras are mounted using 3m command strips and small camera mounts. I chose this route since I cannot drill into my apartment walls without losing my deposit. I just stuck the strips to the back of the mounts and to the walls. If you choose this route make sure you give the adhesive some time to set before you actually put the camera up (on both the camera mount and the wall).

These are what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LOQMCDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anything that supports a 1/4"-20 thread type. I used these and the extension cable that came with my LeapMotion HMD mount to run the 2 opposing cameras. Works great. There is some random occlusion but I rarely notice it in game, and its only if I'm close to the walls.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these and attach them to the ceiling/wall with 3M command strips.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could just use a security camera mount. Got mine for $7 on amazon

There are some good for VR reviews for these ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You would be best served by using software that is specifically designed for accurately outputting digital files to print. The clear leader in this area is of course the Adobe Creative Suite, which contains Photoshop and Illustrator. Your specific inputs (scanner, camera, etc.), as well as monitor and printer would have to be carefully configured in the software so that colors are represented on the screen and in print as accurately as possible:

http://help.adobe.com/en_US/creativesuite/cs/using/WSBB0A8512-8151-408c-9F79-4A9E9E3BA84C.html

https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/printing-color-management-photoshop1.html

Once you have the appropriate software, and you have properly configured all the devices in your work environment in the software, you can further increase the color fidelity of your output by purchasing a color calibrator. This hardware device allows your computer to directly sample the accuracy of the output which allows it to perform fine-tuning to achieve the most precise result possible. This type of device used to be expensive, however, in recent years the cost of such equipment has drastically fallen. It is now possible to purchase a decent color calibrator on Amazon for under $100:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL2TO

Regarding Adobe Creative Suite, Adobe no longer sells this software in standalone format (they now require a subscription and recurring monthly payment). However, there are some reputable sellers here on Reddit which still offer the software at a discount, in standalone format, which does NOT require the recurring monthly payments. Adobe Design Standard CS6 is currently available for only $100 and includes: Photoshop CS6, Illustrator CS6, InDesign CS6, Acrobat X Pro, Bridge CS6, and Media Encoder CS6. For an additional $50 you can get the Adobe Master Collection CS6 which includes pretty much everything else they make:

https://www.reddit.com/r/microsoftsoftwareswap/comments/5oqz5s/h_windows_10_7_8_81_server_office_visio_project/

I calibrated mine using the spyder5 pro. It looks much better compared to being not calibrated.

I shared my two .icm files here https://www.reddit.com/r/Alienware/comments/5lf8c2/anyone_tried_the_fhd_1080p_120hz_display_on_r3_15/dbvc6al/

Each panel is different though so you should calibrate it yourself to get the best possible result.

EDIT: Just realised you posted there as well haha.

I can only recommend you getting a spyder5, go with the express, it's 23% off on amazon at the moment https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Designed-Hobbyist-Photographers/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483894706&sr=8-2&keywords=spyder+5

Yeah, calibrating by eye is really no calibration at all even with a good panel like yours.

However, I do have a scenario for you to consider. Say, you purchase a Datacolor Spyder 5. The model is irrelevant as you will not use their useless software (don't register it!). Instead, you would use the excellent, free and open source DisplayCal which can very accurately calibrate your monitor. You could then calibrate all displays at your disposal in the time span of a week or two. Then, theoretically speaking, you could be compelled to return the device to Amazon and be entitled to a full refund! Thus, you would have calibrated monitors for very close to $0.

Interesting thought experiment, no?

Their color accuracy is not great out of the box because they don't use color profiles made by the big manufacturers. However, if you have a color calibration tool, like this, you can use that and enjoy the same (if it is an IPS, not TN like this one) color. After all, it is still the same IPS panel that Samsung, LG, or Apple use (depending on what version of K monitor you have)

Even a basic software based color calibration can get you good results if you take your time.

I have a QNIX2710 AMA

Do you have a color calibration tool like a Spyder? If not, consider investing in a calibration tool, as that's the best way to get consistent and accurate colors. I'd also recommend using DisplayCAL over the Datacolor OEM software.

One of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Colorimeter-USB-Connector-x/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493248268&sr=8-3&keywords=monitor+calibration or similar. Measures the light your monitor is putting out while showing a bunch of test colours and uses software to generate calibration tables and profiling data to match colours accurately.

The best way is to use a piece of hardware made for color calibration. They can be a bit pricey but really changed my post processing. If you decide to get serious you'll probably want to upgrade your monitor to one that has an IPS panel which are typically more color accurate. Ironically, the most color accurate screens these days are sometimes the smallest.

I'm lucky and already had a Spyder 5 Express that I use to calibrate my theater projector. It's more important for that because as the bulb ages, the calibration needs to be done again so it's a matter of keeping it looking its best. The bonus is that I can calibrate every monitor in my house too (which there are a shitload including the AW34 haha).

​

Another thought, if you have a few friends who game with high end monitors, is to see if they want to go in on it. Split 3 or 4 ways, the cost is low and you can keep passing it around as necessary. Just realize that many monitors come out of the box with a halfway decent calibration so don't expect a miracle but it's nice to know that you have a perfectly accurate display for every movie u watch, game u play, or photo u edit. Oh, there's a nice before/after switch you can toggle when the calibration is done which is pretty cool.

​

Otherwise, I would use the link that _blackwatch listed below and do it by eye. That works pretty well too.

​

Cheers!

You'll need one of these if you want it to be fully colour accurate: https://www.amazon.co.uk/datacolor-S5X100-Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=spyder+5&qid=1555092064&s=gateway&sr=8-2

It will likely need to be an IPS panel that can reach 100% of sRGB and a for photo work a decent amount of AdobeRGB.

You might be able to get around using the Spyder if you've got some PMS solid uncoated swatches to compare against.

Get a Z270 board instead, and maybe grab an H115i AIO liquid cooler since you'll probably doing high-end overclocking with that CPU.

Replace the PSU as well with an EVGA SuperNova G2 650W instead as well.

And if you're doing professional editing, why not grab a Spyder5PRO for a hundred bucks while you're at it?

I don't believe you can calibrate the phone, but you can calibrate your laptop using something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q

I literally bought a device to do it for me:

https://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-S5P100-Spyder5PRO/dp/B00UBSL31Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467949443&sr=8-1&keywords=spyder+pro

It's actually a really nice printer! Although quite expensive I guess, but I got it in the january sale as I knew I'd be eventually branching out to prints. Here's a link https://www.canon.co.uk/printers/inkjet/pixma/pixma_pro-10s/ It actually has 10 cartridges! Which is pretty insane! But the quality is definitly there! I actually ordered some prints from a print on demand place(I think it was printful) before I bought the printer, and the quality and colours weren't as good, and my borders weren't even straight. Being a perfectionist, I just decided to buy a printer lol!

So as for paper, it seems to print on just about anything(including canvas apparently, although I haven't tried that yet)! I am currently using bockingford inkjet watercolour paper for my unicorn prints(my only prints atm) which allows that lovely paper texture to shine! I have also printed sketches on to arches hot press paper and painted over them with great success! Both these papers need to be set to "other fine art paper". You can usually tell which setting to use depending on the thickness and weight of the paper. Although a lot of papers have their own profiles which you can download too. Also the borders come out straight!! So I am very happy with it!

Oh I should mention, although you probably know this, but if you decide to do home printing, get a monitor calibration tool! Then your prints come out exactly like they appear on the monitor. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q

I only have 4 prints at the moment which are a set of unicorns that I did for myself. They do have thick white borders, but I designed them that way for easy framing. I'm not sure if I will do it for the new series yet. If you are curious my Etsy is https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KneeleyPillustration?ref=seller-platform-mcnav it really needs updating A LOT! Lol. But maybe you can see the paper texture from my printer?

I would love to see your work too if you feel like sharing! Although I understand if you don't. I'm usually pretty shy at sharing my work too, but I'm trying to get over that lol :)

Haha yes! It does feel like we have to wander around blindly a lot! But it's part of the fun I guess. Plus it is really nice to meet other artists too! It's also nice to share stuff with others who are interested, as my friends tend to glaze over a bit if I go off on a tangent about art supplies(I think I have an addiction to pens! lol)

Hi 'currently using bockingford inkjet watercolour paper for my unicorn prints(my only prints atm) which allows that lovely paper texture to shine! I have also printed sketches on to arches hot press paper and painted over them with great success! Both these papers need to be set to "other fine art paper". You can usually tell which setting to use depending on the thickness and weight of the paper. Although a lot of papers have their own profiles which you can download too. Also the borders come out straight!! So I am very happy with it!

Oh I should mention, although you probably know this, but if you decide to do home printing, get a monitor calibration tool! Then your prints come out exactly like they appear on the monitor. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q

I only have 4 prints at the moment which are a set of unicorns that I did for myself. They do have thick white borders, but I designed them that way for easy framing. I'm not sure if I will do it for the new series yet. If you are curious my Etsy is https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KneeleyPillustration?ref=seller-platform-mcnav it really needs updating A LOT! Lol. But maybe you can see the paper texture from my printer?

I would love to see your work too if you feel like sharing! Although I understand if you don't. I'm usually pretty shy at sharing my work too, but I'm trying to get over that lol :)

Haha yes! It does feel like we have to wander around blindly a lot! But it's part of the fun I guess. Plus it is really nice to meet other artists too! It's also nice to share stuff with others who are interested, as my friends tend to glaze over a bit if I go off on a tangent about art supplies(I think I have an addiction to pens! lol)', im DAD.

If you get the 13R3 OLED you can calibrate the color with a SpyderPro device. They are expensive but it would be worth the investment. But with it being a hobby, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I love my 13R3 for photo/video work and gaming is awesome on it.

You can google for a monitor calibration guide for your specific model monitor, or look for an ICC profile that'll do it automatically. Though all panels have manufacturing defects that are individual to each monitor so there will always be variance between your monitor and another users meaning calibration guides or ICC profiles aren't perfect. You could try calibrating your monitor manually using online tools. Otherwise, for best results you'd want to buy something like a Spyder5 calibration tool.

Looks like the same price at amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q/

Product page here: http://spyder.datacolor.com/portfolio-view/spyder5pro/

Amazon page here if you'd like to read some reviews: http://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-S5P100-Spyder5PRO/dp/B00UBSL31Q

Colors differ from unit to unit even if it's the same model. Only way to calibrate them so the colors are precise would be to use professional colorimeter like Spyder5PRO or something of that sort. Other option would be to find a company that provides this service.

I use a spyder 5. It's the only one I have ever used. It does the job. Can't speak about others.

​

I assume you have an IPS screen?

I would go with a 4K monitor, especially at 27", because that's a size where you will notice the difference. With the split screen feature in windows 10, you don't really need to have multiple monitors. Split screen isn't that great for workflow at 1080 since you can't fit that much on each side, but it works well at 4K since each half of the screen is the equivalent to the pixel width of a 1080p monitor. Since you mentioned you don't do heavy color work, this monitor would work really well for you. There's always the option of a color calibrator in the future if you decide you need it.

The obvious solution here (the one I chose) is to get a Color calibrating device and create your own profile.

Yes, I use the Aeotec Zwave Stick and have had great success with it (as well as other non-Aeotec products talking to it).

You need a Z-wave USB stick. You can pick one up cheaply enough though.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=lp_3016352011_1_1?srs=3016352011&ie=UTF8&qid=1485117741&sr=8-1

I use this one

That's exactly right. I've not installed Home Assistant on a NAS device before, so I don't know if there are any compatibility issues. But, this is the USB Z-Wave stick that I've seen talked about the most on here:

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485280889&sr=8-1&keywords=aeotec+zwave

So my suggestions: I've linked the things I use, but they're just suggestions.

• Lighting: Philips hue. This is because you don't want to wire up any new light switches. If you get a starter pack like this one it comes with a light switch you can place on the wall with double sided tape. You just have to teach the people in your house not to use the old switch anymore. In the case of kids rooms, the switch actually pops out of the holder and you could put it on their nightstand or whatnot so they can turn the lights on if they need to. The stand alone accent lights they have are really good as well, I have a few behind my TV that make the room pop somewhat.
  
• Zwave door / window sensors. With the dongle these are more useful then you'd think. If you have these and hue bulbs you could have hall lights turn on at like 10% brightness at night so you can see if you need to get up at night. I use them for my back patio so when I take the dogs out at night the lights automatically turn on, then turn off 15 min later on their own. If you're new to Zwave remember that these sensors do not repeat the signal. In your case since you don't want wire in powered devices you would need to get some repeaters to make sure you have enough signal strength or you won't receive events.
  
• Smart plugs: Weemo are good, but if you don't want to have a whole bunch of different types of devices, zwave would work just as well and it would also help with your signal strength. I actuallly use both in my setup to control things like air-purifiers and I have a few that report how much energy they use so I can automate things like when the dishwasher is running or laundry is done.
  
• Thermostat: I'm not sure if I can help you with that. I use a Nest for my whole house, but sounds like your setup may be different. There are plenty of good zwave thermostats out there you could hook up to this setup tho.
  
  

I have this aeotec z wave stick


When you say, zwave controller is this what you're referring to?


So I can just put my aeotec z wave stick and put it into the google home hub, and then monitor and control my aeotec z wave smart plugs and temp/light/motion detectors through the google home hub?

Something like an Aeotec Z-Stick

and which usb? This? https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E

I would say you probably do not NEED repeaters. It is that it helps with the health of the mesh. But, no need to buy more than you need, you buy 1, if you need more, you buy more.

I honestly don't know of a hub that does both, but i have never really looked. Xiaomi sensors require the Xiaomi hub, unless you want to use them via MQTT. The Z-wave stuff i dont even have a hub. I have THIS, plugged in to a RPI3B+. My PI is what runs Home Assistant.

So basically i have a Pi that runs HASS.IO with the Z-wave stick plugged in. I then have 4 Xiaomi hubs throughout my house. But, other than that, all i have is devices.

Thanks for the information.

I thought Zigbee/Z-Wave wireless sensors were generally compatible with any transceiver (as long as they're the same protocol)? So if I had (for example) a Z-Wave USB dongle that provided a generic virtual serial port or some other interface, I could send and receive messages from a computer to Z-Wave sensors that were paired to the wireless network? (Note: I just randomly selected those two links from Google for examples -- I have no idea if they're compatible or anything, I'm totally new to these technologies and this is what I'm researching.)

I don't have a Raspberry Pi, but I read a few articles talking about modules that could communicate with Zigbee and ZWave, so that's why I mentioned it. I'd rather just use a USB dongle transceiver/antenna with my existing Linux server.

My NVR is just a basic Python application I wrote that's running on the Linux server that records my camera streams to disk with a web interface to view them live or from recordings. It'd be easy to additionally listen to wireless sensor messages, and then log them, tag the recordings and send an alert. That's what I want to do, but I don't know what kind of hardware to look at.

I could set up a motion detection zone on each camera and capture ONVIF events but I feel like a simple door is open or closed sensor would have less false positives. Plus, I want to learn about wireless sensor tech. :)

I use a Raspberry Pi and a Aeotec Z Stick along with Home Assistant

Maybe something like the Aeotec Multisensor


You would just stick it in. They promise about 2 years on battery life.

This is Z-wave, so you would also need something like the Aeotec Z-Stick and leave that in a computer you leave on. I have one at home on a Raspberry PI running home assistant, and view the sensor data there.

I'm sure this isn't the cheapest solution, but it would allow you to expand with other z-wave devices in the future.

If you're looking to use openHAB, I would start by consulting the supported hardware list: http://www.openhab.org/features/supported-technologies.html

However, don't let that dissuade you from trying other technologies as I've typically never run into issues finding a round-about way to integrate my devices.

For a Z-Wave stick I would recommend Aeon's: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E

If you just want to toy around with Z-Wave devices and not break the bank, I would recommend starting with turning something on/off using a wall plug: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC06106-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Energy/dp/B007UZH7B8

I'm not an Aeon rep, I just happen to know both of those products take very little time to get working on openHAB and tend to work flawlessly with it.

I would start there and then decide how much further you want to go with automation.

Very cool. I'd still need a hub though, correct? Or maybe this would work? Sorry, I don't know anything about this world.

I use OpenHAB, and with zWave, use this switch which features power monitoring, and use this USB bridge which presents itself as a serial port.

USB Passthru to a linux VM, and OpenHAB has the ability to log this type of data to a SQL db which you could then use for graphing. Some people report this particular switch having issues polling more than a minute, but, I have mine polling every 10 seconds without issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php?g_code=G143452239825

You can still get it on Amazon.com :)

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449062832&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+gen+5+usb

1. https://home-assistant.io/
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479870595&sr=1-1&keywords=z-stick+gen5
   
3. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479870611&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+zwave
   
   **Requires Neutral wire.

I saw this old posting after I made mine: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/8fnjbc/adding_a_regular_zwave_door_sensor_to_your/

Where they talk about getting one of these: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15268

And then putting silicone all over it. Would that work? With a z-wave hub inside the house? I only currently have Google Home with some TP-Link lights & switches. Was thinking of setting up Home Assistant and grabbing this guy ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ADT79X0AD10M3&psc=1 ) to attach to the Raspberry Pi.

Not, wifi as I wasn't thrilled with some of the options. So, I'm about to go down the Z-Wave route:
USB controller
and Light switch.

I'll be basing my setup off a Raspberry PI.

I had the same issue. The image based motion detection just is not ideal for this use outdoors. It works well indoors where you don't have wind or car headlights usually. I ended up setting up PIR motion detectors outdoors in conjunction with a Raspberry Pi running Domoticz. Configuration was not at all easy, but I'm much happier with the alerts I'm getting now. Just getting Domoticz setup as well as adding the motion detectors to it was a chore. Then there was the added hassle of handling the motion events in Domoticz to trigger an HTTP request to a node server I setup, which then made a call to Blue Iris itself.

I used these motion detectors and this z-wave adapter in the setup.

I have a raspberry pi with a USB ZWave stick to control my home, my plants are monitored with this sensor, and I control the lights and humidifier with a zwave controlled plug

I was just thinking this
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519072317&sr=8-6&keywords=Aeotec

And the smart plug and z wave hub I already have. They all work with ifttt, so I should be able to trigger them together. Guess I'll try it and report back.

You might consider some of the multi-sensors like Aeon Labs' that not only do temp and humidity, but also light and motion. You can leverage that info a number of different ways. That's for z-wave of course, but there are similar ones for other protocols depending on what you've got.

Couldn't you use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523019242&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+multisensor

To detect if vibration has stopped?

I switched to SmartThings, but ran into a similar problem. It's not cheap, but I picked up one of these to work around the problem. Instead of using the dawn/dusk triggers, I use this sensor to detect illuminance levels (just have it sitting it one of my windows). Kind of nice as it allows me to turn lights on during days that dark storms come through.

here’s mine . I tried looking for one that only does heat and humidity but couldn’t find any, so this is what I settled for

Aeotec makes some good ones:

https://www.amazon.ca/Aeon-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Multi-Sensor-ZW100/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540994703&sr=8-1&keywords=aeotec+multisensor+6

You can try something like this. But both the washer and dishwasher go through different phases of cleaning, some of which likely don't take much if any electricity (e.g. while filling). That could create some issues with a current detector setup. It might take a fair amount of fine tuning. Search around (SmartThings communicy, HASS, Webcore, etc) a lot of people have tackled this problem. I'm guessing there are routines and pistons already well developed.

For the dryer, and maybe the washer, I've read of people having a lot of success using multipurpose sensorsthat have a vibration/movement sensor.

Sorry could not resist. I travel a bit and I monitor my indoor lettuce hydroponic garden with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gives me a nice snapshot of what's going on from my phone or tablet. It is indoor only though. Still check my growing area everyday when home. Every successful gardener will check their garden as much as possible.

Good luck and have fun.

My fav Z-Wave motion sensor is the ecolink (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQXXG0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Out of all my zwave motion sensors these are by far the best motion sensor I have. Only 'down side' is the detection range is sort of large for my rooms so motion is triggered from hallway when walking by.

Pros:
- Fast triggering

- Very long battery life (running same batteries over a yr now)

- Has never needed tinkering with after setup, very stable and reliable

​

Other Z-Wave motion sensors i have, ordered by best to worst imo:

- Aeotec multisensor 6 (3x) best multi sensor option imo but burns battery fast (~1-2months) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

- Fibaro Motion Sensor (1x) works great most of the time, but every few months it freaks out and constantly triggers motion and needs to be removed and re-added to network. prob bad unit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KOGDETI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

- Mono Price multi sensor (2x) very slow motion sensor detection, scan freq is low and afaik unconfigurable. bottom barrel option imo, do not recommend as motion sensors but do ok w/ temp / humidity / light but lite measurement is in a weird scale vs other lux sensors i have (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRYFE90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Second this, just get a cheap IP camera that will connect to your phone and/or a tablet. Like this:

YI 1080p Home Camera, Indoor Wireless IP Security Surveillance System with Night Vision for Home / Office / Baby / Pet Monitor with iOS, Android App - Cloud Service Available
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l8dHAbSDH8CG0

Definitely NTA. And might I suggest investing in one of these little cameras to prevent any further fuckery - or at least catch them in the act.

I really appreciate your concern. If I do catch him doing something weird I will make sure to act normal until I can move out, then go to the police. I'm sure I can handle it in a way that won't put me in danger.

The camera you suggested doesn't work for me because it doesn't ship to the US. What about this one YI 1080p Home Camera, Indoor 2.4G IP Security Surveillance System with 24/7 Emergency Response, Night Vision for Home/Office/Baby/Nanny/Pet Monitor with iOS, Android App - Cloud Service Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nBEvDb6XDXAXN

YI 1080p Home Camera, Indoor 2.4G IP Security Surveillance System with Night Vision for Home/Office/Baby/Nanny/Pet Monitor with iOS, Android App - Cloud Service Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4b9gDbJHCN3PY

Sorry, but I don't use Instagram. I'll link the cameras here instead.

• This is the dome cam. We own one of these to monitor the driveway.
  
  
• This model basically has the same features and specs as the dome model. This one is smaller and can come out of the stand. Oh, and it's $31!
  
  P.S. The cam that caught all the orbs is the $31 model. They really are great cams for the price point.
  
  
  

I got Yi Home cameras and some outdoor housings. Those two with extension cable and SD cards costs around $65 each. No subscription needed. I’ve had them up all year through snow, way below freezing temperatures and extreme heat with no issues. The housing I used is different, and it actually added a glare when the night vision is on, but my neighbor has the ring outdoor camera and out footage quality is extremely similar if not the same. Yi does make an outdoor camera, but it wasn’t out by the time I got this set up, but it works too well to replace


Camera - $35.99

Housing - $14.99

Extension Cable - $9.99

SD Card - $6.99

Here

Anyone have any specific success in getting either this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K?psc=1
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/Security-DIGOO-Surveillance-Wide-Angle-Detection/dp/B06X3R1H5M/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492723549&sr=1-3&keywords=outdoor+wifi+camera

up and running on their Onhub?

Same here. Bought a Yi home cam on Amazon for $30 and love it! App on your phone. As long as you’re connected to the internet, you can watch the baby. Our baby monitor had a laughable short range.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wuKVDb40AB9YW

I haven't used it for a while but try Netcam Studio, its free (for 2 video sources). But scan for malware nonetheless.

Also if you have some money you could invest in those standalone camera's like this one, the advantages include motion detection and online viewing of the camera, also it can record the video to an SD card on the camera or online so even if the camera is stolen you still have the footage, plus you don't need a PC running all the time to use it. Some are as cheap as $50 so it might be worth your money.

This one ? https://www.amazon.ca/YI-Camera-Wireless-Security-Surveillance/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520346545&sr=8-3&keywords=xiaomi+camera

720P, 1080P gen 1, 1080 gen 2.

The gen 2 is supposed to have better hardware, but the physical design has changed from Dropcam style where the camera is all in the black puck that can be separated from the white frame, so I don't like it as much.

They all use the same app in Android.

Hello, this is the camera. It actually offers a cloud service which I ended up taking because it's pretty cheap. The night vision also works surprisingly well. My original question was more about if deterrence was better than recording a thief.

Just so I get this straight, you want to put the dashcam inside your house or your car? It sounds like you want to put it inside the car but I'm just checking. Additionally, unless you angle it straight up, I'm not sure you'll get a good angle on the third floor balcony from the windshield of a car.

To answer your question, you could run the camera off a booster pack for cars if you have one. They're usually fairly large in capacity and have a cigarette lighter plug included. Something like this.
Some cameras just use a USB cable that plugs into a cigarette lighter adapter so you could also use a large battery bank and use it on motion detect like that. At that point though, I'm not sure if something like a cheap 1080p security camera like this one wouldn't do the same job. Just be careful with the battery bank if you live in a place where it gets really hot.

I'd just get one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4AR9K/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01CW4AR9K&pd_rd_wg=3gUvJ&pd_rd_r=E6CSJ35PF706AVX9KYXT&pd_rd_w=PpDpn

has notifications, app updates and its free to use -- stores stuff on a micro SD card

I'm actually wondering if I upgrade the camera (which I have been wanting to do for a while anyway) if I can find a camera that will support this by default. Specifically looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CW4AR9K/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7K6H818001EY

Price history

Here you go. Temp/Humidity and webcam

Items like this are what I am looking at.... other suggestions would be very appreciated.

This one Z-wave Plus Motion Detector, Easy to install with PET Immunity, White (PIRZWAVE2.5-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7.t0AbWGYDA8B

agreed in some part. my concern would be our dog and at night when in a "home mode". i did see the likes of the below to [maybe] solve the pet matter, but that functionality seems sort of questionable to me that it could actually work:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-wave-Install-Immunity-Detector-PIRZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01MQXXG0I/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_421_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=V83F6AYJJZCR68XN8QD4&th=1

i didn't consider mono-price. i do want to find that sweet spot between highly affordable and highly effective/functional. :)

Same here.

EDIT: FWIW I was thinking of this Link

It recently dropped $1.09 in price since yesterday.

I have an array of motion sensors and can tell you even the same brand has different reporting times. My GE motion sensor in my closet turns the light on the minute i hit the door but the one I put in the upstairs bathroom doesnt detect my motion till im fully in the room. A lot of the delay can also be from the server side too. If you are running a pi it may take longer than on a NUC. I've noticed with my door sensors since I went to a stronger PC to run my HASS that some of my sensor that would occasionally miss a door open or close don't anymore.

for my actual recommendations:
the best motion sensor I have is the Ecolink 2.5 however it is a big unit. You aren't hiding this bad boy anywhere.

My favorite door sensor are these because I like that they are no show. However these are my ones that would occasionally miss an open or close until i upgraded my system.

Z-wave Plus Motion Detector, Easy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I have a couple of these - https://www.amazon.com/Z-wave-Detector-install-Immunity-PIRZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01MQXXG0I/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1 which use a somewhat uncommon CR123 battery. I was worried about having to replace them regularly but it actually ended up being OK - they've been running for a year and a half, with regular daily activation and they're still reporting strong battery life. I don't know how that's possible, but I won't complain!

Totally agree - and frankly VLANs are too much of a pain to deal with anyway.

To answer your original question, I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I

I removed the jumper (making the pet immunity thing moot) and am very happy about coverage and response time. Batteries should last a couple years.

How about a home automation hub with outdoor motion sensors/door sensors? You could probably set something up for about $100-150 depending on how many sensors you wanted, and would have lots of future expansion capability for having it turn on lights with motion detected and such. The Samsung hub is Z-wave and ZigBee compatible, which means there are literally hundreds of sensor options.

Samsung Smartthings Hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_arlPDb3JDT1QG

Z-Wave Plus Motion Sensor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_6slPDbE5CV2CQ

Honeywell Outdoor Door Sensor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00683AMTW/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_6vlPDb2CGEXHF

I used the below sensors to block off areas of the home. They don't totally overlap areas, but I find the trick is a little bit of overkill for each room. I actually have the slightly older version of this sensor and it works great. The real trick is setting a virtual timer that resets if any of that room's sensors are activated

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQXXG0I/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

unicorn. and Nest isn't the answer for everyone.

You can use hardwired Kidde CO and Smoke detectors with relays wired to z-wave sensors (or esp866, arduinno, raspberrypi, etc)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDDVAW/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI/

the zwave sensor commonly used is:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/

You could do this with HomeSeer.

Their RPi-based hub is $150 and a Z-Wave door sensor is another $30.

Add the sensor to HomeSeer. Then create a timer. And create two events- 1. when the door is opened, set the timer to 0:00:00 and restart it. and 2. when the timer reaches 48hrs, send an email.

Personally I'd create a 3rd event- when the time is Sunday at midnight (or whatever) send you an email so you know the system is working. That way if she changes her internet or whatever you know this still works.

I use these. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2D8ZB28U2ANK0&keywords=ecolink+door+sensor&qid=1569350793&s=gateway&sprefix=ecolink%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-3

While I don't use a smatthings hub, they are on the list of Works with Smartthings.

You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.

Smart things

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4

Hubitat

https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4

If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.

Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.


GE Z wave light switch & Extender

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.

​

You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.


Z Wave Door Sensor


https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4


Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!


Abode Security System

https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5


​

For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!

I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.


Kasa Light Bulbs LB110

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5

Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.

I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version


HASSIO

https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/

if you already know about a smart dongle thing that lets you talk to wireless smart devices, and you know about smart door contacts... your question is more about which smart vendor might be open source? i'm afraid i can't advise about that, i just don't know.

-

i am unfamiliar with most of the wireless home automation stuff, the likes of Z-Wave, so there certainly may be a solution from that vendor i don't know about. i am familiar with wireless security equipment, and generally speaking vendors are very protective over the channel encryption and usually don't like to share frequencies.

there are usb I/O boards : https://numato.com/product/8-channel-usb-gpio-module-with-analog-inputs

could be combined with z-wave relays : https://www.amazon.com/s?k=zwave+relay+module

and a z-wave door contact : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5HB4U5/

I hope your have better luck than me. When I posted my review on Amazon, I got a few responses from people having the same problem.

I moved them from doors to windows since they weren't reliable enough to monitor my doors. I figured if I used them less, they'd be more reliable. However, I'd open the kitchen window to let some fresh air in, and the sensor wouldn't pick up that the window opened. That was the last straw, and I returned them as defective to Amazon. Replaced them with Ecolink units, and they've been bang on reliable. Ecolink's motion sensors have also been pretty solid, although they lack the feature set of more expensive multisensor units.

I post this often as this method has worked for me for a while:

I just recently connected this to my garage opener(Momentary Option): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And used this genius method of using a door sensor since all of the tilt sensors seemed to be buggy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o49xC-AXY9w

This one worked ok for me

This is why i got one of these

You should supplement with a motion alarm. I bought this one.

Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

2 chain locks, a u lock,and an alarm with key fob I got for 15 bucks on amazon. Also have my ebike insured with velosurance for if all else fails. Common sense locking techniques are also critical. https://imgur.com/Nz46DEN.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dmBUCb3NEJFA8

> Keni rear light alarm

What about something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Anti-Theft-Vibration-Motorcycle-Waterproof/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/140-1250457-9623327?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0734QN8KR&pd_rd_r=4bde6eef-5ba9-11e9-a19a-110cd90917e1&pd_rd_w=DMWUk&pd_rd_wg=4ZKpx&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=SRTNX3CZMNWFM2RHFVKR&psc=1&refRID=SRTNX3CZMNWFM2RHFVKR

Budget is my biggest problem.

I use this lock:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01N752PNL/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this alarm (motion activated):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0734QN8KR/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very happy with both so far. The lock seems quite heavy duty and the price is decent. I haven't locked it up very much and if I do it's only for short periods.

I've been using a couple of these around the house for over a year. I'm happy with it and service was great when I had an issue ( my fault ) with one.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendelux-Illuminator-AI4-Infrared-Security/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3M3V81HYZIW5O&keywords=ir+illuminator&qid=1562946265&s=gateway&sprefix=ir+ilum%2Caps%2C231&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_zeysDbC1BNQ3V

I purchased this IR floodlight for $19 on amazon. Put it in the corner of my room and I can play in bed in complete darkness.

Tendelux 80ft IR Illuminator | AI4 No Hot Spot Wide Angle Infrared Light for Security Camera (w/Power Adapter) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ec25CbWYW02AZ

Since the cameras have to be unfiltered in the IR to see the controllers, there's a good chance you could get a small IR illuminator like this $19 one at 940nm that should be effectively invisible to humans and just illuminate the room with it if you want to use the unit in darkness. The IR should bleed through all RGB/Bayer filters to put data into every channel, meaning that even if the Quest only uses, say, green to identify objects it will still work.

If you're handy with a soldering iron you can probably make a light for $5-6 in a pinch.

All that needs to be done with interconnected smoke alarms is to attach a relay (kiddie) and then a dry contact sensor to interface to the hub. No reason to spend six hundred dollars of 5 nest units.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5HB4U5

Lock: FOLDYLOCK Compact Bike Lock Black | Extreme Bike Lock - Heavy Duty Bicycle Security Chain Lock Steel Bars| Carrying Case Included| Unfolds to 85cm / 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFLTWT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_dZHFTf6YRAmIc

Motion sensor: Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft Vibration Motorcycle Bicycle Alarm Waterproof Security Cycling Bike Alarm with Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lqqrDcPF2ii2z

> Its a legitimate question.

What is? "Say whaaaaat?" It really isn't.

Take this item for example...

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E

Amazon sells it for $45 bc they limit overhead with ZERO technical staff and no real retail location. Now when someone locally puts the work into making this available for you all they ask is retail price ($55) and your reaction is shock and terror.

> As if no one sells things in B&M stores that are also sold on amazon

This thing isn't your average item. It's an unbelievably small, microscopic niche item.

Datacolor Spyder5PRO – Designed for Serious Photographers and Designers (S5P100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL31Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HX7UCbCVYNXAY