Best shelf brackets & supports according to redditors

Made out of cherry. The shelves are 3/4 thick but I stacked 3/4 pieces around to edges to give it a chunkier look.


The hardware used


The first hardware which didn't work out and was returned

Edit: I guess we're the first hardware isn't eligible for return so I'll have to figure out a use for them

This is the best advice. Make it out of wood and paint it white afterwards and it will be cheap, strong and look good.

visual reference:

https://www.amazon.com/HRD-Floating-Support-Bracket-Decoration/dp/B07T4MDQPB

Not OP: You'll need

https://www.amazon.com/KINGSO-Industrial-Floating-Hardware-Farmhouse/dp/B071X6KLK9

One shelf board, I'd recommend hardwood vs. MDF board as MDF board will blister when water sets on it.

Floating shelf brackets

BIGTEDDY - Adjustable Blind Shelf Floating Support Invisible Brackets, Concealed Mount for Home Wall DIY - Sliver (Packs of 8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZWRJ38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aUdzzbFGR2741

no, just a long 10ftx10 board. Here is the kit I used.
3S Industrial Pipe Shelving,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYBZCS1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/FULTON-CORPORATION-400SHB-Sawhorse-Bracket/dp/B000GATHUS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1425186766&sr=8-6 and got 3 2x4s to make a 4ft tall saw horse. Then I drilled through the cross bar and mounted a couple of snap hooks. My target then hangs on the hooks by a chain or rope and the whole things is fairly portable. I've shot the crossbar and the legs with everything from 9mm to 7.62x54r and it just keeps going. Its easy to replace the wood if it becomes necessary but it'll probably eat up quite a few rounds before you need to.

Edit: I bought 3 rough cut 2x4s at the local hardware store, they were dirt cheap but Really rough. I cut two in half and used them for the leg posts, Then I cut the roughest bits off the ends of the third one to leave me with a six foot crossbeam. I use a six inch ar500 plate that hangs in the center and there is enough room to ductape a cardboard box to either side of it for a paper target as well. The six foot beam gives me enough fuck-up room that I haven't hit the brackets yet, but look how cheap they are anyway. The legs and beam will take some abuse before you need to replace them, and again, are very cheap.

When in doubt fix it, every restaurant equipment store has those metro rack shelf lock for pennies.

Alera (ALEAU SW59SLBL ALESW59SLBL Wire Shelving Shelf Lock, Plastic, Black (Pack of 4 Clips) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RFQ9J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_isbACbNPZZQMT

I did not have studs by the window so i used anchors, which came with the metal pipes (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X6KLK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zu1KDb13EZBSG).

As mentioned, Cofer and Randall Brothers will usually have higher grades in stock. You are going to be hard pressed to find untreated pine 4x4s. Cedar is pretty readily available though.

Although, unless you are trying to build some heirloom workbench to pass down to your kids, or need something to rebuild transmission on, I don't really see the point. Fancy dimensional pine isn't really the thing you want to spend time and money sourcing to build something you'll just hit with a hammer and drip paint on. It's got better engineering values and maybe no grade stampings, but you aren't making roof trusses or millwork here. If this is a basic basement homeowner workbench, just buy something like this Simpson kit and lumber from HD and you'll have a hard time breaking it.

https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-WBSK-Workbench-Shelving-Hardware/dp/B00K774V2Y

i’ll be honest with you, i don’t even have a bookshelf so i can’t answer that question with 100% confidence. i would assume just looking up shelf bracket, something like this would probably work

The modem and router are held in by one of these:

Leviton 47612-UBK Universal Shelf

These have a standoff/negative space behind them so thats where all the power wires for everything are coiled up. Once you have one of these, you can get some 3/4"x1/16" aluminum bar from Lowes/HD and cut it to length and transfer the spacing for the pushpin holes to it from one of the Leviton shelfs. Drill those out and put some of these in there:

Leviton Push-Lock Pins

I painted mine with white appliance enamel. You can put those wherever you need them and use some velcro cable wraps around both sides of them to secure the devices to the enclosure.

It looks like Leviton actually makes a version of these now:

Leviton Universal Bracket

...but for $23/pr you can do better/stronger if you go the thin aluminum bar route and make about 6/8 of them for about $10, including the Leviton push lock pins.

This seems to be activated once you're inside your home but not when you leave your home. Am I correct? If so there are several other products on the market that will do just this. 1, 2, 3, 4

If someone is actually lockpicking your door you can bet that they'll make sure they do it when you're not home. Either that, or they are dumb as hell. (Taking into account that theft isn't dumb as hell in the first place)

Also - $99? What a ripoff.

I bought these pins recently as a replacement for that kind of pin and I like them better. They are a bit longer so they are more secure for deeper holes.

But this pin has the same collar.

12' of 1x12 pine is around $20. You'll probably want brackets every 16-32" so for 12' of shelving you'll need 5-9 brackets.

Brackets prices all over, but plain ones are super cheap.

• https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Hardware-96111-Shelf-Brackets/dp/B009PXR628/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505077794&sr=8-3&keywords=shelf+brackets+12+inch
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Decko-49143-Bracket-10-5-Inch-7-5-Inch/dp/B017LJSDSS/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1505077794&sr=8-14&keywords=shelf+brackets+12+inch
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LJSDVU/ref=psdc_9628891011_t4_B009PXR628
  
  My current bed was chopped from a bunk bed and can fit fullsized totes underneath it, it's great.
  
  Bonus is that you can paint the shelves to be whatever color to match walls/color scheme or just leave them.
  
  

Something like this between the legs and the shelf surfaces.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AUBEZBY/

Unfortunately it would be difficult to get a screw the right size to bite well enough to make a difference without going all of the way through the shelf surfaces. You'd have to drill holes all of the way through and use bolts/nuts/washers which might make it look ugly.

You should have some plastic sleeves that fit around the poles. do you have any plastic pieces?

Edit here is a picture I am not sure if these are the exact ones for you particular shelves but this is the ide.

Depends on the aesthetic you're going for, but I would recommend finding some shelf brackets you like (examples below)

Then get some 1x4 or 1x6 wood of your choosing and stain/polyurethane coat it and attach to the shelves.
Buy or borrow a router to give it a more finished look along the edge.

Just be mindful of true dimension vs stated dimension when looking at brackets and boards and you can avoid needing a table saw to rip boards down.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bathroom-Hanging-Brackets-Supports/dp/B07859J4FQ/

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Metal-Decorative-Shelf-Brackets/dp/B07WWHJWBN/

I recently installed a shelf for my succulents and I would think it would work well for keyboards

I used these L brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768SH78H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

and Lowe’s/Home Depot have shelves for like 7-15 bucks depending the size .

I'm in Houston (not in a flood area), so no water to worry about. I'm doing 24" on the bottom because I have one of these guys, and will probably get another soon.

Looks like I'll be spending about $15 on five sets of these brackets, so I think I'll skip the notching, though it looks like fun.

Thanks for the reply!

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47615-NYL-Push-Lock-Structured-Centers/dp/B0018DOBG2/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HAKJKZK4EC0XSH0KE18M

It uses those little black stand off things. You insert it into the hole and then push down on the top and it locks down. If you by Leviton switches/patch panels, they usually come included with it (look at the Leviton switch I linked above, it's attached to the four ends of the switch). And for mounting gear in it that's not made by Leviton, they have special brackets that just hold a device in place and mount using Velcro straps. But save money and just mount it yourself using double sided tape/velcro straps etc...

Here is their universal bracket to mount non-leviton hardware:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47612-UBK-Universal-Bracket-Structured/dp/B0018DKWGA/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YRPJ81ADVX50J2PK7EAD

Here's another:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47612-DBK-Plastic-Bracket-White/dp/B0007SN5E8/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=66BAHF93TW6PX8GR97RV

Sandwich two pieces of 1/2" plywood together, then use your standard floating shelf brackets:

https://www.amazon.com/BIGTEDDY-Adjustable-Floating-Invisible-Concealed/dp/B01KZWRJ38

I used the L bracket method along with some automotive body molding mounting tape. With the tape alone I was unable to pull the tables back apart.

Edit: Figured I should give links to the tape and brackets I used.

Tape

Brackets

You can get either of them at pretty much any hardware store, or auto parts store. Although they will be a bit more expensive.

You could drill pocket holes where the studs are located and screw them to wall.

Pocket Pegs from fast cap might work https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=57083

Also any of these floating shelf hardware will work

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZWRJ38/ref=asc_df_B01KZWRJ385039070/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01KZWRJ38&linkCode=df0&hvadid=191995157905&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5035351041676607984&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026933&hvtargid=pla-303174627981

Not OP but I built a desk with almost identical dimensions and had the same worries. I ended up getting a piece of 1" angle iron (similar to this but thicker) cut the same distance as the desk and attached it to the back and bottom. It's only been a year but I've got no sag yet.

Looks like one of these Leviton data brackets:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007SN5E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dp9uzbMH02Y62

Not everything fits the hole pattern so I used this shelf for mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018DKWGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_br9uzbN65X3N1

Buy some l brackets like these https://www.amazon.com/MHMYDZ-Bracket-125mmX75mm-Decorative-Brackets/dp/B0768SH78H/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540497208&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=l+brackets&dpPl=1&dpID=416s-7MkALL&ref=plSrch and bend them into a V to fit your deck

This set and about $75 worth of lumber from the Home Depot did it for me!

Something like this holds my R710 just fine. You can probably find it cheaper at your local hardware store.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027E3JYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Depending on how much space you have, a sawhorse bike rack works good and is cheap. I built 2 for about $13 each. Not mine, but here is a pic.

http://www.imgspark.com/image/view/50056d44e41d3cf56d000000/

You need 3 2x4s and saw horse brackets to build one.
http://www.amazon.com/Fulton-400shb-Steel-Sawhorse-Bracket/dp/B000GATHUS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368579665&sr=8-1&keywords=sawhorse+brackets

A rack that is 6 feet wide can hold 4 to 6 bikes depending on how tight you want to pack them in there.

You're right that having the 2x4s rest on the floor will help with the weight, but the remaining weight will still want to pull away from the wall. Regardless, I think that 3 appropriately sized anchors per stud into the wall will be enough. You won't need an anchor at all near the bottom, so I'd keep them nearer the top, maybe one above each shelf or two.

The bigger problem you'll have with that design, I think, is properly supporting the shelves with wooden shelf supports. This is especially true if you're fastening the 2x4s flat against the wall, since you'll now be fastening the shelf supports to the 1.5" side. Instead of making wooden shelf supports, I'd strongly suggest just using some sort of metal 90-degree shelf bracket.

Deadbolt Secure, slips over your existing deadbolt fast, used when you're at home. . .this thing immobilizes the lock. Even with a key, no entry:
https://www.amazon.com/Dead-Bolt-Secure-Prevent-Bumping/dp/B0030D2H1O/ref=lp_14942193011_1_1?srs=14942193011&ie=UTF8&qid=1497045122&sr=8-1

If you mount the light under the shelf, will there be anything on top of the shelf? I ask because the light fixture will probably need room to vent any heat so you wouldn’t want it flush on the shelf if the top of the shelf it’s mounted to is covered up. Some options would be to put the plants on the top shelf, then use some shelf brackets with drywall anchors or screwed into studs. Then the light could be secured to the shelving brackets and be suspended above the shelving rack. Something like this (but you can find cheaper at Walmart or Home Depot) brackets

This doesn't look to be the right size at all but probably provides some clues as to what to search for:

http://www.amazon.com/Divided-Pin-Shelf-Rest-pieces/dp/B003QSEERI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394121775&sr=8-3&keywords=shelf+pegs

Edit: way more results if you search for divided shelf pin, not sure what your needed dimensions are though.

Simpson sells a "workbench kit", that contains 8 "rigid tie connectors" + screws + a little manual that describes how to build pretty much what that site has on it. You have to buy the wood separately. I priced the kit out on a few sites compared with buying the connectors individually and it worked out a bit cheaper in most cases.

This is the Simpson kit i used, i used two kits... one for the longer bench and another for the saw stand... http://www.amazon.ca/Simpson-WBSK-Workbench-Shelving-Hardware/dp/B00K774V2Y

Last summer a guy brought one of those to a range I shoot at. He was really proud of his stand and told us all about how he made it very similar to your story. About 15 min later he was dragging the shattered mess back to his car after his buddy mowed it down with an AK. I laughed pretty hard. Those stands are good if your the only one shooting them but as soon as someone else takes a shot they are almost guaranteed to break it. If you want cheap/easier to transport these sawhorse brackets and a couple 2X4s work well too http://www.amazon.com/Fulton-400shb-Steel-Sawhorse-Bracket/dp/B000GATHUS

Maybe something like a folding shelf bracket mounted upside down? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VF4LHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qBWZDbQM0SMA2

these are really close, but they have that extra support piece, and these shelves fit fairly tight, and i have no idea about sizing.

Ah, understandable. I guess it depends on how odd it'd look to have a deep shelf like that. Maybe a shelf that extends all the way across with some brackets similar to these?

Hard to say with knowing exactly what it looks like, haha.

I would have done something with a shelf brace and some command strips. If you placed 2-3 strips on the side on the wall and then you could use zip ties to strap it to the brace. Or just drill in there wall and patch it up, I've put tons of holes with out thinking in my apt knowing I can path them when I move.

Amarine-made Pair Stainless Steel Solid Shelf Brackets ,8" ,10" ,12" , Shelf Support Corner Brace Joint Right Angle Bracket (12"X6-1/2") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GS6GUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tMUExbE01DPNX

Command Large Picture-Hanging Strips, Black, 4-Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404YO1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eOUExb9GBHEW5

Also to clean it up a bit:
Wiremold CMK50 Cord Mate II Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CSUExbRZ17VST

Black pipe, some elbows and mounting plates

Kind of like this from Amazon

It's much cheaper if you can cut and thread it yourself. The precut pieces can get pretty pricey if youre getting them off the rack at home depot. Threading is hard work tho. There are some pretty cheap kits on amazon prime shipped, which is what I went with.
amazon link

Your plan sounds fine, but you could do a floating shelf (random amazon kit )
Or depending on the look you’re going for, 2 panels on the side wall with adjustable pegs (but I can’t remember the last time I adjusted a shelf...)

I would understand that price for full blown rack equipment

...but...

I just want something like https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47612-DBK-Plastic-Bracket-White/dp/B0007SN5E8