Leather is essentially dead skin. Like skin, it needs to be kept somewhat moist to prevent becoming brittle and cracking, but unlike living skin, it no longer receives nourishment, hence the whole point of doing this.

Keep in mind, "Less is more". Always aim for enough to cover the leather, but not enough to saturate it. Your boots will darken slightly, just like anything that acquires moisture.

If you don't follow any routine? Boots may last you a few years, maybe more, maybe less.
If you do follow a routine. Boots may last a few decades, maybe more, maybe less. They may outlast you!

• Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE
  
  
  
• Applicator Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Horsehair-Polish-Applicator-191-100/dp/B001ECZOKY
  
  
  
• Leather Cleaner (Haven't used this yet, but I've heard its fantastic. I've been using kiwi saddle soap). https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Cleaner-Honey-Accessories-Concentrated/dp/B00HU6N3LK
  
  
  *Leather Conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Conditioning-Oil-2-5-74g/dp/B00N9CHI2O
  
  
  You can find everything you need at most department stores, but this should give you an idea of what the tools look like.

1. wipe them down with a damp rag to get off any surface dirt.
   
   
2. if there are salt stains, get a cup of water and mix in some white vinegar. Repeat #1
   
   
3. let them dry thoroughly. overnight is preferable
   
   
4. go on amazon and get Bick 4 and a Horse hair brush
   
   
5. follow directions on Bick 4.
   
   
6. Repeat #5 (probably several times)
   
   7 Reevaluate at this point. If it's still not up to par, post on r/goodyearwelt and r/RedWingShoes for further advice.

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

What you want is a suede eraser and suede brush. Rub it with the eraser, then the brush. Repeat as needed. It might not get it absolutely perfect but it'll make a big difference.

No shoe lasts forever, but here is how you can help yours try

• Avoidance: Try not to wear your shoes in the rain, wet leather soles wear several times as quickly as dry ones and are more susceptible to tears or other serious damage. Treat your shoes like you would your foot, don't kick anything or drop anything on them.
  
  
• Rotation: Wear your nice leather shoes only every second or preferably third day, this gives the leather time to dry, which will reduce wear and tear. Cost $0 Last: 10-15 years From: You
  
  
• Shoe Trees: Pulls moisture out of your shoes after they're worn. Maintains shape and keeps them smelling nice. Cost: $24.95 Lasts: 10-15 years From: Woodlore/Allen Edmonds, Jos A Bank on sale, Nordstrom
  
  
• Shoe Horn: goes behind your heel as you put your shoes on, keeps your heel from folding over the leather in the back and degrading it over time. Cost $2.50 Lasts: Lifetime From: Amazon
  
  
• Toe and heel: they're little metal plates that are nailed into the sole to keep that area from wearing. Doubles the life of the sole. Cost ~$20 Lasts: 1-2 years From: Local cobbler or shoe repairman.
  
  
• Topy: Thin rubber top coat over the toe of the shoe, lowers the wear of the leather. Cost ~$30 Lasts: 1-2 years From: Local cobbler or Shoe Repairman.
  
  
• Leathr conditioner: Every two weeks to two months depending on wear. Keeps the leather soft and happy. Cost $4.95 + Shipping Lasts: at least a year. From: Allen Edmonds
  
  
• Horsehair Brush: Keeps dirt, dust and salt off your shoes, brushing down when you get home will keep your shoes clean and happy. Cost: $6.99 Lasts: 5-6 years From: Kiwi
  
  
• Creme Polish: Helps moisturize leather, maintain colour and keep them shiny. Cost: $9.00 Lasts: At least a year From: Allen Edmonds
  
  
• Edge Dressing: Applied once every couple of months to the edge of the sole and heel, it will keep your shoes looking neat and sharp. Cost: $4-5 Lasts: 3-5 years From: Fiebings, Allen Edmonds.
  
  If you take care of your shoes and treat them well, they can last up to 15 years and still look beautiful.
  

At the suggestion of multiple reddit users, I use this cleaner/conditioner and this brush, which have worked well enough for me.

At minimum, I would suggest four things: Horsehair brush (as mentioned below), a conditioner, a dauber (to apply the shining agent), and a shining agent (if you want them to shine/polish).

My recommendations on products that I've personally used (which I've used a number of things, but found these to be had at a good price/quality ratio):

1. Kiwi Horsehair brush. I have two of these, one for work and one for home. Love them both.
   
   
2. Lexol leather conditioner. Amazing stuff, I use it on belts, wallets, car seats, and definitely boots and shoes. I bought a liter, but I'm guessing the 8oz bottle will last several years. Strong recommendation for this product.
   
   
3. FootFitter dauber. I didn't use a dauber for a long time but in my opinion, it's much easier to get a consistent coating with a dauber vs an old shirt. Definitely optional on this one.
   
   
4. Saphir neutral wax. Saphir is a company highly touted on /r/GoodyearWelt and many other shoe forums/communities. I have never come across a straight out bad review of anything they make, but have only used their waxes. Much bigger fan of their wax over Kiwi and other generic waxes. It smells great, shines great, and is quite forgiving. I suggest Neutral for all colors except black, in which case I recommend black. Strong recommendation.

My favorite shoe cleaning supplies

Angelus Water and Stain Repellant, Clear


Kiwi 209-000 Suede and Nubuck Care Kit


Shacke Suede & Nubuck 4-Way Leather Brush Cleaner



E6000 230010 Craft Adhesive, 3.7 Fluid Ounces

Saphir Renomat 100ml

B&E LIFE 5 Pairs Practical Plastic Adjustable Length Men Shoe Tree Stretcher Boot Holder Organizers 5 Pairs Black

You could get shoe trees for much cheaper, from Ikea for example but I just wanted to link something.

Angelus Easy Cleaner 8 Oz.


These brushes are the absolute best if you know better brushes let me know


Angelus Sole Bright 4 Oz Salon care 40 works too



IRIS USA, Inc. CNL-5 Storage Box, 5 Quart, Clear, 20 Pack


Dr. Scholl's WORK Massaging Gel Advanced Insoles (Men's 8-14) // All-Day Shock Absorption and Cushioning for Hard Surfaces (Packaging May Vary), 1 Count

EB Kicks,


If you know of any better products please let me know I don't believe I missed anything

This video is stupid helpful for white sneakers

Get Jordan 1 Glitter outta your shoes

First, get a pair of cedar shoe trees to keep in the boot (you don't have to insert it all the way if you don't want)
Next, buy a horse hair shoe brush. After you wear your shoes, brush them down. If there is some stubborn dirt/grime, you can wipe them down with a damp rag, let them dry, then brush them.
Every few months, depending on how often you wear them, give them a good cleaning with Lexol cleaner, then condition them with Lexol conditioner. Let the conditioner dry, then brush vigorously.
That is literally all you need to do. No Obenaufs, no oils, nothing fancy.

Shopping list:
http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop/Product_11001_10050_101593 (these go on sale pretty frequently for $8-$12)

http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100%25-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1408110167&sr=8-5&keywords=shoe+brush

http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408110196&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol

That's a great find! The lack of heel might be odd if you aren't use to it, so watch for arch pain. As for the shoes, check the heel stitching and make sure it isn't loose, and that the sole is in good condition without uneven wear. A cobbler can easily fix those things. Also, check that the tongue and vamp seam isn't stretched or torn. Also, switch out the laces a thiner braid, waxed ones if you can - something slick to match the shoe.

As for care, definitely check out the "Put This On" episode that Thamonsoon recommended. Your initial clean will be cleaning the dust off with a damp cloth, get in the seams - try a toothbrush. Then wait for them to dry and give a good brushing. For continual maintenance, I'll copy my shoe care suggestions I made from another post here:

"I made another post about boat shoe care, so in that style I'll give you the basics of caring for your new shoes.

You will need a soft cloth, any jersey cotton will work, or you can buy a shoe rag, a stiff brush, cedar shoe trees and some shoe polish. This will cost you about $30 USD and last a while.

• After a day of wear: Brush any mud or debris off of them, don't forget the soles, and give them a quick wipe with a damp cloth. Put in the shoe trees so that they fit snugly, but not too tight.
  
  
• Every 1 to 2 weeks, depending on usage: Polish your shoes. To do this, start by removing the laces and cleaning the shoe of any dust or debris, if you use a damp cloth, wait for the shoes to dry before continuing. Then, take your polish brush, collect some polish from the tin on the bristles and brush your shoes until you can see a thin layer of polish on them. Once you've covered all the sides and seams, let them stand for 15 minutes or so for the polish to set.
  After they've set, buff you shoes vigorously with your polish brush until they have a lustre and you can no longer see the matte texture of polish. If you wish to "shine" your shoes, give them that reflective lustre, take your polish rag and give you shoes a once over with polish. Just enough so you can see you've covered the shoe. Then add a few drops of water to an area of the shoe an buff with the polish cloth to a mirror shine. Continue until the all the polish is buffed, adding water drops as necessary. That's all.
  
  
• When they've become considerably soiled: Make sure the shoes are dry, then clean off any dirt. Take a damp cloth and wipe the shoes down, using a brush or you finger to clean out seams and stitching. Pay attention to tongue seams, sole stitching and lace eyelets. Allow the shoes to dry completely and polish as above, however, when first adding the polish, let them sit for an hour or two for the leather to absorb the polish well, this should ease the stress of the dirt drying the leather and the water affecting the panels.
  
  As for brands, Kiwi is affordable and accesible to most people. There are other brands, so if something is easier for you to get, that's fine. If you need help with selection, just give your location and I can find some local options. As for colour, try and match the polish, but if you don't want to, you can go with neutral - it will do no harm, but your shoes may have a diminished lustre or show more patina ageing as you wear them, as it lacks any colouring. Definitely don't think an "Express" or "Rub-on" option will do the same, it won't and your shoes will suffer in the long term because of it.
  
  That's the basics for at-home care. If you have any problems with them, like a seam opening or your soles are wearing in places, don't hesitate on bringing them to a cobbler. Ask around for recommendations, or check online review sites for your area to find a one. A good cobbler can do wonders to bring your shoes back to life, or modify them for your needs. I'm not sure what brand you have purchased, but some shoe companies offer rebuilding services for shoes that are significantly worn, but can still be repaired.
  
  If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask, and good luck with your new shoes!"

amazon

Suede shampoo is probably your best bet.

I don't know what's up with the two websites, but as a copper river bag owner let me give you two pieces of advice. 1. order the leather strap. It is expensive but it really makes the bag. 2. Order some Saddle Soap and wash the bag using a horse hair brush. They ship the bag with extra dye and oil on it and it will rub off on your clothes if you don't wash it before use.

For conditioning leather:

https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1408-Neatsfoot-Dressing-Non-Darkening/dp/B000QFQE68

Brushes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WZUIG2M

Cedar shoes trees:

https://www.amazon.com/Ollieroo-Mens-Adjustable-Cedar-Trees/dp/B01LVUBVQE

Buffing cloths for a mirror shine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PV0DSTO

The best brand of shoe polish:

https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Stain-Shoe-Polish-Color/dp/B00UY2KLGC

Very Important:

• Horsehair Brush
  
• Some sort of cleaner (Lexol)
  
• Some sort of conditioner (Lexol, Bick4)
  
  Optional:
  
  
• Buffing Rag - could also just use old socks or cotton shirts. Make sure whatever you use is 100% cotton since nylon can scratch
  
• Pigmented Cream Polish - Can be used to recolor damaged spots and build a patina. WILL DARKEN YOUR SHOES.
  
• Cuir Gras - My preferred conditioner for greasy leather (like CXL). Not necessary unless you want to spend the extra money over Lexol.
  
  Be sure to review the Leather Care section in the wiki to get a good overview of products and care techniques.

This this this. Jason Markk Shoe Cleaner and Brush. Love this kit.

Just to be clear, this is a horsehair brush. On the other hand, this is a horse hairbrush. You want the former, not the latter.

Don't make it too complicated.

1. Take a brush to get rid of most of the dirt on them.
   
2. Take a wet rag and rub the boots down (this should get rid of the paint stains, if not be more abrasive with the rag)
   
3. (Optional, but suggested) Apply some sort of leather conditioner / protector (ex.Mink Oil Or Obenhaufs Leather Protector)
   
4. Use a Mr.Clean Magic Eraser (or similar) to clean the wedge sole.
   
   Some of the deeper scuffs may not go away completely, but they add character to the boot.

Jason Mark Essential kit: $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D12KGVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Brush Set- $5.89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4EG6D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Angelus Paint: $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQ53QA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get yourself a horse hair shoe shine brush (boar hair beard and mustache brushes work in a pinch) and brush the dried wax out of the crevices.

:)

No! The conditioner and Mink Oil included in the Basic Care are not made for the smooth leather of Beckmans. Here's what you need:

1. horsehair brush
   
2. Lexol conditioner
   
3. Burgundy shoe cream to touch up scuffs; I use Meltonian
   
4. Rags for cleaning, applying conditioner and shoe cream, and polishing
   

This is what I used on my friend's car seats that haven't been cleaned for a few years.

cleaner

brush

Both purchased at Walmart for about $15.

results

My first GYW pair as well, also black cherry. I picked up a Lexol Leather Care Kit that comes with leather cleaner and conditioner. I wore them a few times and then cleaned and conditioned them according to the kit instructions. After each wear I brush them down with a horse hair brush and when I'm not wearing them I put in shoe trees.

I clean/condition them after about 5-6 weeks, unless I get them really muddy or something. There are surely others on this sub with better knowledge of leather care, but this routine has been working fine for me so far. Most will recommend giving them 24 hours to rest after wearing, but, y'know, they're boots.

this stuff works wonders

I have no experience with it, but I have heard you can take the boots somewhere to have the toes dipped for pretty cheap.

A diy alternative I found (again no experience)
https://www.amazon.com/Kgs-Boot-Guard-Brush-Protection/dp/B00XYC36AC

Another thread I found:
https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/2whpqa/protect_steel_toe_work_boots_from_wearing_through/

Just be careful with the Flitz. It isn't as abrasive as some polishing compounds, but all polishing compounds are abrasive. If you over do it, you can still remove the razor's plating.

If you have gunk in the texture of the handle that you can't get out, try to find a brass bristled suede brush. This will get the gunk out without scratching up the plating. However, again don't be too rough because if the plating is already flaking this will scratch it off.

I bought this one awhile back, it's smaller than the pictures make it seem and I haven't really used it yet as my boots haven't needed it yet, but they all look about the same. I searched around gyw but didn't really see any solid recommendations on one over another so I went with that one.

the stuff in the guides on /r/goodyearwelt was very helpful for me. after reading the stuff there, i bought some venetian cream and a horsehair brush. along with some soft cloths, i can do a pretty good leather care job.

i think the biggest things to note are: don't wear the same pair two days in a row, to give them time to dry out. condition when necessary. use boot trees if you can.

I've had good luck cleaning indigo bleeding off suede in the early stages with a really basic kit.

The only problem with that is that it's something you'll probably have to do every week. I cleaned a pair of sand suede Chippewa boots I've been meaning to sell that have about 5 wears.

Here but it'll keep happening if you're wearing raw denim. So It'd probably be best for me to have 'em.

I use Kiwi suede protector every 4 weeks or so, brush as needed. Suede isn't as hardy as other leathers, but also doesn't need to be babied.

For suede, the first and the safest step is always dry brushing, a brush like this. Don't use any detergent or stain remover, just lightly dry brush on the spot, I have 3 pairs of suede shoes and this method works well for cleaning dry stain/ dust/ lint.

Cool, I bought this and this, based on your and /u/micrafone_assassin's recommendations. Hopefully these will make the shoes an investment instead of just a splurge

What a pleasant surprise. :-)

FWIW, I can't take anything away from Saddleback. Their products lived up to their description. My only customer service experience was minor and painless. Plus, I felt like I learned more about what I was buying due to site content and videos.

For shoe brushes I happen to like the Star Professional horsehair shine brush. The big 9" one is especially nice but the 6.75" is my go-to handy shine brush for leather projects. I'm not affiliated with whoever sells the brushes at the amazon link.

Kiwi horsehair brush this works just fine.

Yes do condition them before you wear it with any of the products mentioned. Honestly dont worry about them too much, the boots are pretty resilient. Dont overcondition though, probably no more than once a month(?) depending on how much you are wearing them. Just clean it up once every few wears with a damp warm rag and brush it out. If it gets into mud/snow then definitely clean immediately after wearing.

Here you go.

What's it look like? If it's actually stained, a cobbler probably wouldn't be able to do much, but if it's just spots, the nap's probably just worn down and you can probably get it out with something like this. Otherwise, unless it's really really bad, don't sweat it. Bucks don't need to be perfect to look good.

Here's a cheap suede eraser & bristle brush kit.

And if you're curious, the shoes are Red Wing 8105 Work Oxfords.

Omnidaim from Saphir.

Angelus also makes some.

Kiwi is fine, though theirs are kinda small. I got this random two-pack on Amazon for like $12 and they're much bigger and also fine.

Is this the brush I want for my Iron Rangers? I picked them up about a month ago, and I think they can use a light cleaning. While we're on the topic, how often should I brush them? Just as needed?

​

Thanks!

I would see the leather care guide for specifics or if you want to polish them.

Generally, a horsehair shoe brush like this one and some conditioner like a bick 4 or whatever saphir product suits the leather on your shoes should be fine. Just remember to condition sparingly (once every 3-4 months tops).

I have THIS one and it works fine.

I have this cheap suede brush/eraser kit. Nothing fancy, but it does a decent job cleaning up suede shoes and jackets.

https://www.amazon.com/Sof-Sole-Suede-Nubuck-Cleaning/dp/B003IJ6GS0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1R6TIKCYEUEKW&keywords=suede+brush&qid=1567443360&s=gateway&sprefix=suede%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-5

Woodlore is a good brand for its price. http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Suede-Bar-And-Brush/dp/B000PD5ESU

No problem! The suede brush I initially purchased was this and it has seemed to work quite well. It's also relatively inexpensive.

I've also used this kit and found it works well.

The first link is more of an all around brush and might work better for your uses.

• Lexol Conditioner, nice and light
  
  
• Small dauber or shine cloth for applying wax or cream polish
  
  
• Standard buffing brush for buffing the polish/wax afterwards to get a good shine
  
  
• Shoe polish, either wax, or a cream polish. Do you want a mirror shine, do you want to add colour, etc
  
  Mink oil is great for waterproofing, but not ideal for conditioning.

For my brown leather shoes, I use this to apply this. And then I hit it with this. There's a lot of different ways to go about it though. Put This On had an episode dedicated to shoes and they demonstrate how to polish your shoes in the film. I highly recommend checking it out (along with their other videos - very good stuff). Good luck.

Eu folosesc Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush.

Nu știu dacă e cea mai bună, dar asta folosesc eu și sunt mulțumit. A, da, și mă interesează foarte mult încălțămintea de calitate și am grijă de ea deci nu-s doar un noob care nu știe ce recomandă. Peria asta își face treaba și e ieftină.

Și dacă tot veni vorba, pentru bocanci recomand Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap și pentru bocanci negri recomand Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative și/sau Obenauf's Leather Oil.

Săpun doar pentru bocanci, nu pantofi, și Obenauf's stuff doar pentru piele neagră, o să schimbe culoarea altfel. Pentru pantofi sau bocanci la care nu vrei să se schimbe culoarea recomand refined coconut oil.

De evitat orice fel de cremă colorată. Aia e moartea pielii.

I'm not sure how long these are, but the AE brushes are pretty good for $10.

I use these Star brushes. They're made in Israel and are rebranded for Kiwi, Saphir, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100%25-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE/ref=sr_1_3?s=shoes&ie=UTF8&qid=1368585467&sr=1-3

And maybe a box to store it all in, so when someone tells you to "get your fucking shinebox" you can go get your fucking shinebox.

I clean my sneakers with this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D12KGVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works for me. Careful with the brush on fabrics, might want to use another brush for a softer shoe/fabric.

Posted this on the after dark thread but the more input the better:

"I Purchased Chamois Vibergs for a deal (imo) on ebay. Anything special I need to know about chamois? I picked up a brush but do I only use the rubber bristles? Waterproofing or protection? Any pointers would be appreciated."

a wire brush, like this.

I would really recommend http://amzn.com/B000PD5ESU, it comes with what is basically a big rubber eraser that takes off all the dirt off my shoes (especially that white part by the soles). Love it.

don't worry about it man youre good. those are a solid pair! so what I would advise you to do is load up your arsenal of supplies. I assume you have a horsehair brush. if you don't, here is a great brush that will last you a long time. Next, you will need saphir renovateur.

they appear to look a little dry. when you get them, i suggest you start brushing em for a good 10 minutes each (its long I know but it gets them looking great) as shell is quite oily and the brushing will bring out that shine. I would hit the shoes with a dab of saphir reno, apply evenly, wait for 5 minutes and brush away. I would re apply every 25 or so wearings. brush the hell out of em after each wearing. do this and your shells will last a lifetime

comment content: don't worry about it man youre good. those are a solid pair! so what I would advise you to do is load up your arsenal of supplies. I assume you have a horsehair brush. if you don't, here is a great brush that will last you a long time. Next, you will need saphir renovateur.

they appear to look a little dry. when you get them, i suggest you start brushing em for a good 10 minutes each (its long I know but it gets them looking great) as shell is quite oily and the brushing will bring out that shine. I would hit the shoes with a dab of saphir reno, apply evenly, wait for 5 minutes and brush away. I would re apply every 25 or so wearings. brush the hell out of em after each wearing. do this and your shells will last a lifetime

subreddit: NavyBlazer

submission title: Simple Questions - January 20, 2017

redditor: JDLII

comment permalink: https://www.reddit.com/r/NavyBlazer/comments/5p3vuc/simple_questions_january_20_2017/dcqbw5q

Just wanted to add my humble advice on the jean stains. I had horrible ones from dark jeans on my tan leather. Using Lexol Leather Cleaner and a Kiwi Horse Hair Brush with a tiny bit of water completely removed the stains for me. I follow up with Lexol Leather Conditioner.

Is this one good? https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100%25-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468455546&sr=8-1&keywords=kiwi+shine+brush

Thanis I'll grab a Kiwi. Do I need the polish dauber brush too *has a handle with round section of horsehair for applying polish), or just the long brush?

Try this out

cool, I actually just googled suede brush and it seems like it'd be good to have if I get suede boots too. is something cheap like this a good option? http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Suede-Bar-And-Brush/dp/B000PD5ESU

Winter Clothing/Underwear
In the fall I would wear whatever sweater was on sale at Goodwill.
For the colder winter months I wore a heavy Carhartt jacket and layered as necessary, normally using old/retired ARMY-issued polypropylene underwear.
I bought this around 7 years ago and it's awesome to have in cold weather.

Long Sleeve
For a long sleeve I would always wear these Hanes Cool Dri T-Shirt's in the summer. They claim 50+ UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) though I'm sure that high of a rating only applies to the black ones and it will slowly go down as you put it through the wash. I bought the safety green ones over a year ago and haven't noticed any change in sun protection so far. They were holding up too witch was impressive with my line of work at the time (railroad labor).

Pants
I started wearing whatever blue jeans I found at Goodwill but they would always end up having holes after a month or so. I used that saved money and waited to for a 25% off sale to buy a few pairs of Duluth Firehouse pants (the originals, not those quick-dry things). I've returned 1 pair so far after 2 years even though I staggered them every day. I suspect I may have over-washed them (weekly)?

Hats
I was required to wear a hard hat so I bought this sun shade that wrapped around the brim, it worked out very nicely because 50% of the work involved bending over, exposing the back of your neck to the sun.

Socks
I bought Darn Tough socks and haven't looked back since.

Boots
I went through a few brands of boots before I found the perfect pair of Chippewa's. All other boots I tried were uncomfortable in the toe area. I was restricted to certain boot requirements from the railroad: 8", defined heel, safety toe, laced. I also put on some KG's Boot Guard before I wore out the leather on the toe area, use masking tape to make it look good! As for boot care, I opted for Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP because of the water and chemical resistance. Any time I needed to clean my boots I used Dawn (yes, the dish soap). For a thorough (bi-yearly) cleaning I used Murphy Oil Soap (yes, the wood cleaner).

Lunch Box
As for a lunch box, a basic small cooler/ice chest will do the job just fine for storing hot or cold items (not both at once!). They're well insulated, cheap, and beat broken zippers, ripped cloth, or dented metal any day.

Canteen
COLD: I bought this Coleman 1 Gallon Jug about 5 years ago at Goodwill for $2 and it still looks brand new today.
HOT: This Stanley One Hand Vacuum Mug was the best money I ever spent. It's awesome for driving without spillage and relatively easy to use while wearing insulated gloves. Sadly my first one was ran over by a coworker but I quickly bought another.

Sunscreen
Find whatever works for you, but keep in mind that high SPF ratings are pretty much marketing. SPF 15 = 94% UVB protection and SPF 45 = 98% UVB protection. As far as I'm aware you cannot obtain 100% UVB protection from sunscreen.

Sunglasses
Again, find whatever feels most comfortable to you, everybody is different. I was required to wear safety glasses which means polycarbonate lenses, they are known to scratch easily. Because of that, I found a pair that could be cheap enough to replace when necessary. Yes, my company did provide them, but they were incredibly uncomfortable to wear for 8+ hours a day.

Other
Having a few bandanas will always come in handy.
If you need gloves, your leather choices are between grain and patched. Grain is much more expensive, takes some breaking into, is water resistant and very durable. Patched is pretty much the exact opposite of grain. My goto brand was Kinco.

I may add more if I can think of anything else.

EDIT 1 - Forgot a link..

You can find saddle soap just about anywhere - I got mine from Dollar General, but you can find it at Wal-Mart, Target, or pretty much anywhere else that sells shoes. I bought my brush from Jos A Bank, it comes in a kit with black and brown cream polish, as well as edge dressing. Note that the edge dressing is black, you wouldn't want to use it on your boots since they have a brown sole edge. If you have any dress shoes, the other accessories might come in handy - if not, you can always order just a brush from Amazon.

For the saddle soap, here's what I do: Get an old toothbrush or buy a cheapo one, and a bowl of warm water. Dip the toothbrush in the water, then brush it in the saddle soap so that a little bit sticks to the bristles. Then start scrubbing the shoe with it. It should lather up on the shoe. Once you've done a section, say, the entire toe, wipe all of the soap off of the shoe with a clean cloth or old shirt. The idea is to not let the soap dry on the shoe. Repeat until you've scrubbed the whole shoe. Make sure and scrub the welt area well, there will usually be dirt and dust jammed in there. Give the leather a few minutes to dry - you can speed this up with a hair dryer on low heat. Once they are dry, they're ready for polish.

Here's a video that explains the polishing process well, and it even happens to be on the same pair of shoes.

I used this: http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Suede-Bar-Brush/dp/B000PD5ESU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1302293067&sr=8-1

It worked pretty well but I have nothing to compare it to.

Thank you so much! Is something like this what I should use?

I need to take care of my new iron ranger boots.

I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8WWNSM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

& https://www.amazon.com/Red-Wing-Heritage-Brush-Brown/dp/B00BB3PLHM/ref=pd_sim_309_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BB3PLHM&pd_rd_r=992512a3-c261-11e8-a3f5-a953cb310f5f&pd_rd_w=QAyc5&pd_rd_wg=zWKXd&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=HS7X2KW8J567ZVBQHZWW&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=HS7X2KW8J567ZVBQHZWW

Anything else needed?

This is what I use - works great, and it's cheap. LINK

You don't necessarily have to slide all the way from the dots to the foul line, but fronm a fellow ex-planter here is some advice:

• First off, it doesn't look like you're using house shoes, so make sure and take care of your shoes. Invest in a wire brush to keep up the slide sole example
  
• Make sure you can slide at all - standing on the approach, try to slide with your left foot. Keep your weight more towards the toes. If you can't slide this way, your sole may be dirty or the center may have really tacky approaches. In that case...
  
• Try a slide sock (I can't tell a difference between brands, I've used these, Storm and Ebonite).
  
• Once you're comfortable sliding, try some One-step drills without the ball, then with the ball.
  
• And, finally, once you get comfortable with doing that, keeping balance, try an entire (slow) approach to work it in.
  
  I don't think you have a "slow" approach, necessarily, but you do seem to take a big pause between 3rd and 4th step to let your body catch up since your pushaway isn't happening in sync with your second step. In fact, one drill my coach had me do at my first lesson (which felt like a real waste of money) was to step left, then hinge the ball down in along with my second step several times in a row.
  
  Once you can burn that into muscle memory, you won't have to think about it anymore.
  
  Anyway, TL:DR - keep your weight forward (torso bent forward over knee, weight (mostly) on left toes and try and keep the knee bent to get into a slide.
  
  (/u/akimbojimbo229)

What's the benefit of mixed and just straight brass? If you we're curious this is the one I was looking at (Brass suede brush).

There are a lot of shoe cleaning kits on the market you can use, I recommend this one

This is what I highly recommend starting with

Someone stepped on my light suede air forces and I bought this (Shacke Suede & Nubuck 4-Way Leather Brush Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIFFEPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-dq4Bb7NCQ61R ) suede brush to brush away the dirt.

After brushing gently, I am left with a horrible blue stain on my shoes... anyone know how to fix this?? I’m so heartbroken.

Saphir Reno mat or Jason Markk to clean Common Projects? Also, is it necessary to use a leather conditioner to maintain white leather shoes?

[Jason Mark] (https://www.amazon.com/Jason-Markk-Premium-Cleaner-Solution/dp/B00D12KGVW/ref=sr_1_1?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1501172066&sr=1-1&nodeID=9616100011&psd=1&keywords=jason+markk)

• Horsehair brush
  
  
• lexol or renovateur
  
  
• boot trees
  
  
• high boot inserts

Depending on which leather you choose your waterproofing options will be a little different. If you choose the muleskinner leather you won't need any polish. I took my muleskinners and coated them with Otter Wax. Totally changes the look of the boot (I think they look better), but they are almost 100% waterproof. I wouldn't stand in 4" deep water, but in the rain and puddles water just beads right off of them.

https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B00XSYWD82/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1492631076&sr=8-12&keywords=shoe%2Bcare%2Bkit&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Saphir-Renovateur-Luxury-Leather-Care/dp/B002PLC60Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1492631127&sr=1-3&nodeID=7141123011&psd=1&keywords=saphir+shoe+polish&refinements=p_89%3ASaphir+-+Made+in+France

https://www.amazon.com/Saphir-Pate-Luxe-50ml-Black/dp/B002QEZ2P6/ref=sr_1_4?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1492631117&sr=1-4&nodeID=7141123011&psd=1&keywords=saphir+shoe+polish

https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Buff-Cream-Polish-Brown/dp/B0028OW2QG/ref=sr_1_1?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1492631171&sr=1-1&nodeID=7141123011&psd=1&keywords=kiwi+cream+polish

For the prime knit I would just use a sneaker shoe cleaner you can find on Amazon.

Suede Eraser

If you still have those suede boots, you should consider getting a suede cleaner kit, if you haven't already.

As for boots you can wear during the Winter, I would suggest these Chippewa boots, although they are a bit clunky, but I like them. Sign up for Amazon's shoe mail list for 20% off, and that should bring these boots to just about $100.

Edit: As /u/TripleVision suggested, if the weather is pretty bad during the Winter, Bean Boots might be the way to go and are currently $99 on the LL Bean website.

This works great on NMDs. reshoeven8r

I use the reshoevn8r kit on all my sneakers. It comes with 3 brushes (soft, medium, hard) so you can clean multiple types of material. I use the soft on suede/primeknit/mesh/laces, medium on the outsole, and hard on the sole. Although, I rarely clean the sole because it's just going to get dirty again anyway.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

reshoevn8r kit

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

> I have no clue how to care for roughout ; any recommendations?

I'm by no means an expert, but all of my boots are roughout, suede, or nubuck (still no smoothout, weirdly) and I've sort of winged it ("wung" it?) to some semblance of success.

I give them a through brushing with a normal horsehair brush to get rid of dirt. I use typical circular and side-to-side motion as I go. Then I sort of "tap" the bristles straight down on the leather, and sort of "flick" the brush as I lift. I do this to fluff up the nap, and undo any patterns the brush has made on its path around the boot.

That's just after a normal day or few of wear. If they're more dirty than normal, I might use a suede brush like this to go over the boot. One side has rubber bristles, and the other has a mix of synthetic and copper bristles.

I first take the rubber bristles and rub in soft circles. Because it's rubber, there's a lot of drag, and it kinda feels like I'm pressing down the nap a lot (and sometimes I wonder if it's just matting it down more than getting rid of any dirt). Then I'll very gently use the other side to "fluff" up the nap again. The copper bristles do a good job of this, but definitely can remove some of it. Like, even if you do it gently, sometimes there will be little bits of the nap left on the brush and sitting on top of the boots that I've got to brush off with the horsehair brush. I've no idea if that's normal, if I'm doing it wrong, etc. But I figured from the get-go that I'd have to be delicate when using something like copper bristles on leather. Using the copper side is definitely not a necessity, and I certainly get a little paranoid that it's being more aggressive with the leather than is necessary, so take that with a grain of salt.

If you want to add some waterproof-ness, you can try Tarrago Nano Protector. I used it after lots of recommendations from users here. My main criteria was that it wouldn't darken the leather, so Tarrago is a winner in that regard. After 20–30 mins of drying they'll repel water pretty readily, though it does wear off over time. I went really light on my applications of the Tarrago, because I didn't want to saturate the leather, but I think I could've used more for better and longer-lasting waterproof-ness.

Let's use a pair of walnut Allen Edmonds.

I recommend:

1. Saphir Wax Polish in any color
   
   
2. Saphir Renovator
   
   
3. Heel & Sole Dressing
   
   
4. Full-Toe Cedar Shoe Trees
   
   
5. Horse Hair Brush

So should I use mink oil, or not? Is it for something completely different?

So far, it looks like I'm getting this, this, and this. Should I get a shoe conditioner like this, too?

Jason Markk via Amazon

It looks like I can get the 8 oz bottle for 17.99 on amazon and then I could get a brush such as this one....

http://www.amazon.com/Shacke-Suede-Nubuck-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B00IIFFEPU/ref=pd_sim_309_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Gcr1ShzwL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R2FYTGK2H8B7XN9PBY2

Or should I just stick with the kit that comes with a 4 oz bottle and a brush of its own? And a box of Mr clean magic eraser, because apparently that is also a good shoe thing to have.

Prep your boots:

Knock back the finish a bit with some diluted dish soap and a scrub brush. Set them aside to dry.

Apply some Sno-Seal liberally with rag or brush. Allow to set. For the first coat, I like to hit it with a hairdryer to let it get into the leather's pores and all the nooks and crannies where boot meets sole.

Apply a second coat of Sno-Seal and wipe off the excess with a rag.

Now get an applicator brush, a polish brush and a wax matching the color of your boots. Kiwi is a good brand, I've been using it for years.

Swirl your applicator brush around in the tin of wax and then apply it to your boots in a vigorous circular pattern. Pay attention to the areas around the crevices (such as in the instep). Let it set for a few minutes and then brush it down with the polishing brush in a vigorous back-and forth motion. Do NOT rub hard with the polishing brush - you're trying to bring it to a shine / gloss, not rub it off.

With the base coat of Sno-Seal and a good layer of wax over it you should be good for all winter. Wipe off any dirt / snow / mud before storing them in the spring, then repeat the process above in the fall.

Source: Army veteran, live in the Pacific Northwest. Many of my boots are over a decade old or more.

EDIT

For anyone following along, I reconditioned my 16-year old Vasque Sundowner boots this morning as they needed it. Questions welcomed.

Uhm... I have some boots that use CFStead suede, those are hard wearing so I was fine with walking in the rain. I doubt the Adidas can do the same. I would avoid rainy days for sure, but light shower probably ok. Aside from that, if you have a suede brush to clean debris, it would be better. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Shacke-Suede-Nubuck-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B00IIFFEPU

Pro Tip: Invest in a Horse Hair Brush. I use it on my Raptor 7's and it cleans the nubuck on it like magic. Made the the upper look practically brand new.

Here's a link if you're interested. http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2OWTFZVIG7K1P

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IJ6GS0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_DTv8AbS194Q55

Seude cleaner, works great.

I use a tooth brush and the Jason Markk premium brush for the suede/rest of the upper

Something like this would be fine.

Polish on a work boot mainly boils down to aesthetics. A lot of Japanese dudes seem to do a glossy mirror shine on their redwings.

Any horse hair brush should do. These from Hanger Project for $15 have been recommended a lot. I have these however and are ok for the price as I got them a little cheaper a while ago.

unrelated, but related, what is the general consensus on brushes like this?

I got one because I noticed a liquid mark on my pair after my company party. Brushed at it which helped, but seemed to have made the perfectly uniform flesh/suede side a little more variable. Nothing crazy, just wondering now if the brass bristles are too harsh on suede, or if I should have waited longer before brushing at it.

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

This. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IJ6GS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get a horsehair brush:

http://amzn.com/B00CQAYK3A

You can even get one for $6 that Kiwi makes - try Walmart.


Just brush the shoes real quick after wearing.


Oh, and get some shoe trees.

Guys, this stuff is amazing. I originally bought it for shoes but it’s money on 99% of stains. Smells great. Hasn’t ruined anything yet. AND it has saved my favorite titleist hat many times this summer Amazon Link

just buy suede brush like this to clean if You go with alcantara