Best smoke detectors & fire alarms according to redditors

Vapes aren't actually vapor, they're aerosol. They actually sell aerosol sprays for testing smoke detectors and fire alarms.

Well ... single use smoke detectors do exist:
Kidde i9010 Sealed Lithium Battery Power Smoke Alarm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5SX98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_awYyybRKJYXPF

"Features
Sealed-In Lithium Battery – Sealed-in lithium power supply; no battery replacement required over the 10 year life of the alarm. Eliminates worry about battery removal or unauthorized deactivation of alarm"

Dude, seriously. Buy a new one. They're stupid cheap and easy to install. It'll take you a grand total of like 10 minutes to order a new one, pick up the box from your front porch, and set it up.

It's one of these.

I would recommend against modifying a fire alarm. You can buy battery-backed smoke alarms already for $20 or less, with lots of other features including networking. https://www.amazon.com/BRK-7010B-Hardwire-Photoelectric-Battery/dp/B000H3AGZO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493576850&sr=8-5&keywords=battery+backed+fire+alarm

If you modify a smoke alarm and it fails in a fire you will likely be held civilly liable, i.e. insurance will reject claims, and it's possible that criminal charges may apply.

http://www.firealarmsonline.com/2013/06/IllegaltoTamperwithFireAlarms.html

Short answer, no, don't modify your alarm, just buy one that has the features you want. If I knew how to do what you are attempting, I would not help you because doing so would attach liability and I have zero interest in that happening.

I'm excited about the Philips Hue integration! That's news to me, as the only thing I heard about was possible LiFX integration after I had already bought quite a few Hue Bulbs.

The streaming camera looks nice. I hope it pivots to look up and down because that's a limitation I've dealt with on the current versions.

I wonder if the slim door strip is similar to the Sensative strips. Lots of people have mentioned them here, but I haven't heard of anyone who actually tried them out to see if they'd pair and work.

One downside that I can foresee with the smoke alarm listener is that it will need to placed within 6 inches of your current smoke alarm, so you'd need one listener for every smoke alarm. However, it will be nice to have for the garage because a lot of smart smoke alarms are smoke and CO, and you don't really want to put a CO alarm in your garage. I use the First Alert SMOKE1000 Atom Micro Photoelectric Smoke Alarm (If you're wondering if you need one of those, go read the reviews on Amazon!).

I could only find support articles for the:

Abode Smoke Alarm Monitor

Abode Recessed Door Sensor

Outdoor Siren (Edit: Seems to have been removed)

Overall, awesome update! What's the opposite of buyer's remorse? Because I have it. So glad I went with abode!

Looks like this smoke & fire alarm.

My sister-in-law who travels extensively for her job and lives most of her life out of a suitcase travels with one of these.

Smoke detector might give you lots of false alarms based on the nature of how they work and that dust collection isn’t 100%.

You put a smoke detector in there and you will end up taking it out. There are however heat detectors, they can be a set temp or a rate-of-rise type and they don’t care about dust for activation. Just as an example.


Someone smarter than me could probably tell you how you could to integrate it with a raspberry pi and a relay, or maybe even a more simple method??

You can buy smoke in a can .
Arduino engineers hate him/her due to this one small trick......

Smoke in a can? Any hardware store should have some. https://www.amazon.com/UTC-Security-SM200-Smoke-Canned/dp/B0041X4GRK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=smoke+in+a+can&qid=1574879997&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQUkNFMU5QMjRKQ1ImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1NTAzNTVKMjVQTk1BSkdWOE4mZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDE5MzYyOTNDU1oxVlZROTdXNTgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

It's another smoke detector.


Maybe the old tan one is dead or something.



If that link is removed for some reason, search:


First Alert Atom

This is the polar opposite of SMD, but I thought I'd share my solution...

While I love DIY, smoke detectors are important. I wanted to interface with my home system but without compromising the integrity of the system.

Get a 120v first alert.
First Alert SA521CN Wireless Interconnected Hardwired Photoelectric Smoke Alarm with Battery Backup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVO9D4

Get the smart relay interconnect.
BRK RM4 Smart Relay for First Alert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PF21U
This includes schematic for wiring to the detector and the color codes for NO/NC relay connection.

~~Get an optocoupler or isolation relay. Mains Voltage! The output of the RM4 is 120V.
Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigger Input. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S
The RM4 output powers the relay. The screw terminals connect to the 8266.~~

Get a Esp8266; Flash tasmota firmware. Configure for switch and mqtt. Wire it up.
First Alert is now part of the matrix.

Quick update: Did not need the second relay/optocoupler. The BRK RM4 is an isolated relay. Their docs did not make that perfectly clear so I assumed worst case w/o testing it.

Found it. Smoke Alarm.

There is a way around this - it does cost ~$35-40, but is cheaper than getting all new Hubitat-compatible smoke/CO alarms.

Get an Ecolink Firefighter z-wave Smoke/CO audio detector. This device is installed right next to any of your Kidde alarms, and it pairs to Hubitat (or any z-wave hub) as a z-wave smoke/CO alarm.

It can interpret a smoke or CO alarm sound and send a trigger to the z-wave hub, which can perform actions based on that trigger. I have this working with Hubitat. Saved me the cost of buying all new z-wave smoke/CO alarms.

An HOA can require anything from you. You are going to have to talk to them. Do they really mean hard wired? I would assume (again, check with them) they mean interconnected. You can get interconnected smoke alarms for fairly cheep, even though you already purchased new units. Ask them if the below product will satisfy their request.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5S37K/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=yJfrp&pf_rd_r=6XDAZ3AJ6EYTJCSFHKXW&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00PC5S37K&pd_rd_w=bgwFr&pf_rd_i=interconnected+smoke+alarm&pd_rd_r=b0a5ec42-c4c2-4e94-9794-1930ddec2644&ie=UTF8&qid=1540924242&sr=1

> I'm so glad that smoke detectors have built-in batteries that last 10 years now, no more checking your batteries or looking for a 9V somewhere when it starts beeping.

My local code requires these in all residences, actually.

I'm not opposed to them, but I, uh, may be violating that ordinance in one location so I can get a better alarm. That takes an AA though, so no weird 9V thing.

(The motivation is as follows. Wait, I mean the motivation would be if I were to be violating the ordinance, yes that's it. Anyway, there are two kinds of smoke detectors -- ionization and photoelectric sensors. Each has strengths in terms of what kinds of fires it can detect better than the other; ionization detectors do better when you have a fast burning fire, while photoelectric does better when it sits there smoldering for a while. Both kinds of fires are realistic threats in a home. But you don't have to pick one or the other -- there are dual-sensor alarms that have both. However, you can't, or at least couldn't when I was outfitting my house, get these with a lifetime battery -- only with a normal, replaceable battery, or hard-wired with battery backup. But I'm also somewhat okay about testing them.)

Replace it with this.

You need a heat detector rather than a smoke detector.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Q6LXW2/

Carbon monoxide detector is an interesting choice. We know there will be exhaust fumes, it's a garage. I wonder if it might alert too frequently and become annoying.

If I was going to put a Carbon Monoxide detector in a garage I'd want it to be one with a digital readout so that I can see the levels.

Good idea, but not how to execute. The smoke can actually damage the sensor.

Get this test spray instead.

I did quite a bit of research looking for the same thing. In the end I decided it was important to keep this safety system separate, using reliable names such as First Alert -- you can interconnect them via. existing home wiring or wireless ... just buy the same brand. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVO9D4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

But I want the benefits of notifications when smoke alarm trigger (lights turn on, text messages, etc) so I installed this zwave device beside one of them that listens for the sound of an alarm. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Z8NM8N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

So far, no false alarms, but testing any one of the smoke detectors will reliably trigger this zwave device. Plus, it costs far less than Nest Protect or even Roost, and doesn't rely on a third party cloud.

First, no fire alarm should be located near the stove, but if it is, it should be a photo-electric alarm, NOT an ionization alarm. Most people have ionization alarms, and I'd bet yours is too. So step one, IMO, would be to replace the ionization alarm near your stove with a photoelectric alarm, like this one.

If you're lucky, the landlord can just twist off the old one, unplug it from the wire it's connected to, and replace it with a new photoelectric alarm. I replaced all of my hard wired alarms and it was a very easy job if you get the same brand.

If that isn't possible, I'd probably cover it, like others have said, but if you do that you still need decent fire alarms. And make sure you have at least one photoelectric alarm in your apartment. You're taking a risk if you don't. Photoelectric alarms are better for the fires that tend to kill people. Read this for more information. I bought my daughter a photoelectric alarm for her apartment, so now she has both types. Here's one for 9 bucks. It could save your life. Put it in a central location away from the stove so you've got coverage in case you get fed up and end up taking a baseball bat to the one near your stove.

If you already have wired smoke detectors that are interconnected, you could use a kidde relay wired to a door sensor or dry contact sensor.

Kidde SM120X Interconnect... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The guide I followed to set it up: https://community.smartthings.com/t/integrating-kidde-smoke-co-sensors-into-smartthings-properly/53641

https://www.amazon.com/BRK-Brands-HD6135FB-Hardwire-Battery/dp/B000Q6LXW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541321139&sr=8-3&keywords=Heat+Detectors&dpID=41MPAs%252Bv5rL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

get a heat detector, not a smoke detector.

This is pretty weird. If you've already told him you feel unsafe without them and he won't budge, that's a pretty big red flag. You could look into installing these: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-P1010-Photoelectric-10-Year/dp/B01A0M4EYU They're tiny and don't require batteries, so he probably won't notice them around the house.

That's great!

But, the rest of us aren't so confident about the Anet A8 seeing how there are multiple examples of them catching fire.

#1 2017

#2 2017

#3 2017

#4 2018

That's me taking 5 minutes. Actually I spent more time writing this than researching this. An exhaustive search would probably yield more and these are just the ones people are telling us about.

Maybe they can be made safe, but that needs to happen in the factory, not after the fact by the consumer who probably isn't an electrical engineer. You're not an electrical engineer are you?

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert. Take my advice at your own risk.

I don't know what's causing these fires. But, I've heard mention of mainboards and PSU's. You should probably take the task of heating off the mainboard and put it onto external mosfets for the hotend and the hotbed. You might also want to replace the factory power supply (PSU) with something more robust. As long as the A8 is 12 volts I'd probably suggest an ATX power supply conversion if you're handy with a soldering iron and feel confident you can do it. ATX power supplies come with a number of built-in safety features. Here's a wiki on choosing a PSU.

You might also want to add some basic fire suppression to your print area. This maybe would stop a fire, but it's not going to stop an electrical short creating heat and therefore acting as an ignition source. It might give you more time to react in the case that a fire does start.

Edit: I couldn't find the rating on the rangehood fire extinguisher so, this ball extinguisher that is ABC rated might be a better option if you can figure out how to suspend it above your printer which shouldn't be too hard as it comes with a metal stand.

I would definitely add a fire extinguisher nearby where you print.

Then add a fire alarm above your printer and in the adjacent room.

This is not just advice for you, but it's advice for anyone. I've done all three of the above suggestions. I've add the stove rangehood fire extinguisher. I've wall mounted a fire extinguisher in the adjacent room. I've also add two fire alarms, one above my printer and another in the adjacent room.

Be safe my friend and heed the warnings these multiple fires are broadcasting.

Depending upon proximity, and a dozen other factors, something like this might work: Wireless Audio Detector

I have one for my HomeSeer system, and it seems to be effective in detecting the sound of fire alarms. My house has several wired alarms that have no automation capabilities. Using this enables me to receive alerts when away from home.

You would need to have a system compatible with Z-Wave devices to use (HomeSeer, SmartThings, Vera, etc)

You would need permission of the neighbors to put one in their home, but it would certainly be to their advantage to allow you to do so. Also, it would need to be within Z-Wave range (330 ft, 100 meters)

I replaced all the 15 year old builder-grade detectors in my house with Kiddee ones. The new ones came with 2 different adaptors, PLUS a bare-wire adapter. Luckily for me, one of the adapters works just fine. I loosened the existing baseplate, turned it to remove it, then put the new Kiddee plate on, turned it, tightened the screws, then plugged the new units into the existing house wire plug and it works fine.

I specifically bought that brand because it is also compatible with their wireless units, and I needed to add a few more for total coverage in my home.

Here's what I bought:

WIRED:

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-RF-SM-AC-Hardwire-Wireless-Interconnect/dp/B00PC5S5UK/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1RD8TFK1T36V58M4DZ0T

WIRELESS:

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-RF-SM-DC-Wireless-Interconnect-Battery-Operated/dp/B00PC5S37K/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1483835173&sr=8-16&keywords=kidde+smoke+detector

tl;dr: The new ones should be compatible.

You won't be able to use the same wiring as the work in entirely different ways - the ones you have are monitored by a control panel (24V DC) of some sort, a residential version is entirely independent but can trigger others on an independent high voltage (120V AC) wiring loop through the way it is wired.

I would get something like this to test it. Be sure to get one (like recommended) that doesn't leave a residue - some of the 'most effective' canned smokes available can leave a residue inside the detector and this can cause problems in the long run. It only takes a very small amount (1-second spray) and then wait for it to process and go into alarm state. Also get a can of compressed air to clear the detector out after the test.

If the one is going off outside of your shower then it may be the wrong type (ionization) or may just be getting old and falling outside of its sensitivity range. The one in your photo is photoelectric which is the best choice for this area. Can you show a picture of the box they are connected to?

Here is the one I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071Z8NM8N

I recently replaced my smoke detector and I wanted a hardwired Z-Wave one, but apparently that doesn't exist. So I got a dumb one with this detector-detector.

According to the konnected website you need something like this to make it work

Kidde SM120X Interconnect Accessories Smoke Relay Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_-G.LDbNH8PP6K

> Speaking as an electrician

Thanks very much! That is good to hear coming from a professional. I was proud of my little workaround hack, but I have never read about it anywhere else so I wondered if I was missing something important... but it really does work (I've used it during a couple of outages now). One useful thing to do is to use a little label maker to label the relevant outlets inside the house with "GENERATOR", just to make clear that they aren't usually going to be working. It's also good to make sure that whatever extension cords you get for coming from the generator to the house inlets has a round end for where it's going into the inlet. Some extension cords have the additional tab sticking up which makes it hard or impossible to fit into the inlet socket. Kind of hard to describe, but you'd know exactly what I mean if you see the inlet. Unfortunately the ones I got don't seem to be available any more on Amazon, the product page has gone away, but they looked a lot like these:

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-150BBI-RV-Charger-125-Volt/dp/B000NV0V8C/

And the extension cords for generator to inlet are these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IAXSW/

Notice the female end of the extension cord is round, so it'll fit inside the inlet socket. I think I have the 100 foot and another 50 foot of the 10 ga, for getting from the generator on the rear deck to the two different inlets on the house. The garage one is a bit further away, toward the front of the house, so I need the 100' for that. Usually I'd try not to run so long, but when running the generator in an emergency I'd much prefer for it to be hidden in the rear of the house, not visible to the road. Being 10 ga gives me a bit more room to play with 100' length without losing too much power to the cord.

Other than those, it's a pretty standard job that anybody who's a little bit handy can do - you might also need a 1 7/8" hole saw for the inlet, assuming you have wood walls (we have cedar siding). I used something like 10 or 12 ga house wiring between the wall - I think it might be 10 ga since I remember hemming and hawing on which to use, I believe I went heavier just to be on the safe side. It's a bit intimidating for a non-professional to work with wiring stuff up, but since it's not connected to the actual house wiring, that takes some of the fear out. Just have to make sure you get all the right wires in the right places (not too difficult) and tighten everything up. Also a little bit stressful hacking holes in your exterior house wall, but once it's all sealed up again it's pretty cool knowing you can now get power inside without having to leave the window or door open.

I also have a Kryptonite Stronghold anchor in the back yard next to the deck, for chaining the generators up while they are running, so nobody can just pick them up and run off (a downside of having portable generators is that they are, well, portable):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LF903M/

I dug a hole and then filled it with high stress concrete, then left it to dry for a week or two, then drilled the holes for the bolts and installed the anchor. For chain, I used the strongest stuff I could find at Home Depot. The padlock likewise - just the most beefy, secure one I could find. On the generators themselves, I have installed the security addition to the handle:

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-63230-Z07-010AH-EU2000i-Generator-Deterrent/dp/B004DQY6B6/

This doesn't make it 100% secure, but it's better than just having the plastic handle which is easily broken. Security is a matter of layers - you don't depend on anything being 100%, but you hope that everything will serve to either deter or else slow the thieves down enough so that either they don't try, or else you will be alerted in time to stop them.

Finally, I have a couple of failed circuit alarms, which go off when power is lost:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077Q9NC6/

I figure these could be on the extension bar inside the house while the generator is in use, then if it goes off or is being stolen then I will get an alert when they unplug the extension cord. I am using one of these alarms in the garage now, for the chest freezer so I'll know if that circuit trips out for whatever reason (avoid thawed out freezer, never fun).

Anyway, hope that helps anyone else who might be thinking about a similar setup - the Honda EU2000i is a great little generator (I also have the Companion), and with a little forethought you can make it much easier to use in your house in emergencies. Oh, and one last thing - I also have a large folding plastic table, which can be used to put over the generator if it's raining outside when you need to use it. Obviously the generator can't be too near the house, because of risk of carbon monoxide, so being outside puts the generator at risk of exposure to the elements. One of those folding tables, you can get from any department store, is useful for putting the generator under something. If the rain is especially heavy, I can put an additional tarp over the table, which can also cover two sides, and a couple of cinder blocks makes it ok in the wind.

Incidentally, this is a good battery powered CO detector, great for emergencies if you need to run a Buddy heater inside the house, or make sure the generator exhaust isn't blowing inside:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/

I had the exact same issue, I lost about $200 worth of stuff. After searching for a project to make, I found these and just took the easy way out.
I bought 3: freezer, refrigerator, sump pump.

Nothing yet, haven't completed the build, but I got 2 flame-activated stove-hood extinguisher cans. It will make a right mess of the printer if it ever triggers, but they were cheap and are effective. I am also going to build an ardino electronic flame detector, hack on a $20 smoke alarm and have both the ardino and octopi capable of killing the power to the printer via a 110v relay board if they receive an adverse sensory input.

Edit:

Flame sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFSEC2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Firestop cans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FL6VU3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Relay module: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dual sensor smoke alarm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8MVW0S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whatever you do, I recommend photoelectric smoke detectors.

> In tests, ionization alarms will typically respond about 30 to 90 seconds faster to “fast-flame” fires than photoelectric smoke alarms. However, in smoldering fires ionization alarms respond an average of 15 to 50 minutes slower than photoelectric alarms. Several studies indicate that they will outright fail to activate up to 20-25% of the time. The vast majority of residential fire fatalities are due to smoke inhalation, not from the actual flames and almost two-thirds of fire fatalities occur at night while we sleep. [Source] (http://www.propertyevaluation.net/Photoelectric%20vs%20Ionization%20Smoke%20Alarms%20-%20Deadly%20Differences.html)

I bought First Alert Interconnected ones, but it would depend if you have a hardwired system or not.

I replaced the smoke detector in my kitchen with a Kidde Heat Detector.

Kidde HD135F

No more alarms when baking or cooking.

I used something like this Failed Circuit Alarm (New Style) by CSH Incorporated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077Q9NC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ALhBDbEJNK43W

It isn't a smart setup but you'll definitely hear when the freezer loses power

Yes, I’ve looked at the Insteon smoke bridge. But as you say, the selection of compatible products isn’t great, and the features and compatibility are confusing and poorly documented.

For example, First Alert seems to offer only a single hardwired device with ONELINK, the First Alert SA521CN. But the SA521CN is only a smoke detector, it doesn’t detect CO. I could pair this with a unit which does do smoke+CO like the First Alert SCO501CN-3ST -- but that unit isn’t hardwired so it does me no good.

Then there are First Alert devices which are “interconnected” but lack ONELINK. For example the BRK SC9120B is a hardwired smoke+CO detector which is “interconnected” but lacks ONELINK. Maybe I could buy one of these and pair it with a SA521CA to give ONELINK capability? :(

Update. I'm trying this one. It claims it has an adaptor.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PC5TJJQ?vs=1

No it's a microphone that listens for any alarm sound, it's not attached to or physically connected.
Kidde RemoteLync Monitor 120V Plug-In https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y7OMI0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rg2oxbNHBT5B7

The most direct same-brand replacement for what you have is the First Alert 9120b -- it looks like a 12-pack is $110 with shipping.

Many locales now want you to have photoelectric or dual-detection photoelectric & ionization detectors, so you may wish to pick up one or more of that sort in the same brand for each floor.

unicorn. and Nest isn't the answer for everyone.

You can use hardwired Kidde CO and Smoke detectors with relays wired to z-wave sensors (or esp866, arduinno, raspberrypi, etc)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDDVAW/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI/

the zwave sensor commonly used is:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/

I'm not sure if the Nest smoke detector uses photoelectric or ionization sensors, but if it's photoelectric, you can buy this to test it.

Edit: Noticed someone said this also worked for a smoke detector that uses ionization sensors, so this should work for your purposes.

First setup heater mintemp in the firmware:

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=9763

For added protection I have a smoke detector in the cabinet connected to a relay which cuts the power if the detector goes off:

https://www.amazon.com/BRK-Brands-RM4-Smart-Relay/dp/B0039PF21U

Consider getting a temperature alarm in the kitchen - rather than a smoke alarm.

EDIT: "Heat Detector" is the proper word.

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-HD135F-Fyrnetics-Hardwire-Detector/dp/B000P4YY8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467053527&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+detector

They have a wired version as well: http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-SA521CN-Interconnected-Hardwire/dp/B000EVO9D4/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41uKzhkqyXL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=058RS7TT7CC15YB6G704

I was able to connect my hardwired smoke detectors to my SmartThings system with a BRK RM4 Relay. I installed it in the junction box behind the detector in my basement. When the alarm sounds it will open its switch. By connecting this switch to the auxiliary contact terminals on a door sensor mounted nearby, my HA system knows that the alarms are sounding. This should also work with any other hub that supports a zwave door switch (read: all of them.)

Here's the magic:
BRK RM4 Smoke Alarm Accessory Relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PF21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_-HVLwb9C5KFTY

And the door switch I'm using:
Ecolink Z-Wave Door/Window Sensor (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_qKVLwbPRVRM5Y

I use this.
https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-RemoteLync-Monitor-120V-Plug-In/dp/B00Y7OMI0U
When the alarms go off it will shut down ecobee and turn on my lights (wink hub) via IFTTT.
It works great. There are some bad reviews but I have never had any problems.

You can also replace it with a heat detector alarm. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-HD135F-Fyrnetics-Hardwire-Detector/dp/B000P4YY8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491597928&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+detector+alarm

You can buy a can of ...stuff that makes a vapor cloud to test smoke alarms. Or just find someone who vapes. It's not a good idea to blow real smoke into them because that can gum things up. Vape leaves little residue though.

I also had the same thought as you, but recently I had a batch of smoke alarms where the buzzer part itself was not working reliably. And I detected that using the test button. So it's not completely useless.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Liquid-Detector-Tester-Aerosol/dp/B001B3BL0S

Here's a link to the testing stuff, I can't vouch for this brand, it's just an example.

$10 gets you a smoke alarm with a silence button.

the easiest way to check these systems with with a can of smoke, designed just for testing, without fire.

I use these not sure if you can silence from one that isn't sounding but it's wireless interconnected.

Kidde 21026044 Wireless Interconnect Battery Operated Smoke Detector Alarm | |, Model RF-SM-DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5S37K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bvxMDbB2933XS

Not sure why you are getting downvoted. Many new smoke detectors come with a battery that lasts the life of the detector. You never change it. You just replace the unit.

Kidde i9010 Sealed Lithium Battery Power Smoke Alarm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5SX98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uHDwzb4WKCCTH

All that needs to be done with interconnected smoke alarms is to attach a relay (kiddie) and then a dry contact sensor to interface to the hub. No reason to spend six hundred dollars of 5 nest units.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5HB4U5