Best sports & outdoor recreation according to redditors

$18.39 for approximately 99736 more gallons of actual safe drinking water

A few more ideas :

I would suggest having a battery-powered FM radio (and extra batteries if it's battery powered, or get one which charges via USB like the one I linked) to listen to the news and get vital information.

Also (if not too late), order a sawyer mini (best) or lifestraw (not as good). If you don't have access to clean water it can help you stay healthy (beware of chemical contamination which cannot be removed by these).

If you have the money, get a Garmin inReach satellite communicator (requires a (relatively cheap) subscription, down to $15ish a month). You can request SOS (much like 911), and send/receive SMS and e-mails, even without cell coverage. Excellent to keep in touch with relatives and in case of emergency. Can be used year-round when hiking, snow-mobile, skiing, ... Don't tell anyone you have this...

Download the offline map of your area on Google Maps on your phone beforehand. Can be priceless to navigate around and doesn't require internet access. Also get the Maps.Me app and download the map of your area too. Google Maps offline maps will expire and disappear from your phone after 30 days (I believe), Maps.Me maps will not.

If the cell service in your area is out of order, use your phone in airplane mode so that it doesn't continuously and desperately looks for a cell to connect to, which will drain the battery VERY quickly. Also use it on the lowest practical brightness setting to save battery power.

If not too late, get big USB power banks (>=10000mAh such as this one) and fully charge them beforehand. It's good as barter items and it can be nice to recharge your things when you have no access to a generator (on the go, or if you don't want to run the generator to avoid attracting attention). You can also get USB lights (this one for instance) and your powerbank doubles as a flashlight with a very long battery life.

Get a first aid kit, and not just one with bandaids... Get a CAT tourniquet, trauma dressing, Celox (preferred) or QuikClot bandage, triangular bandage, SAM splint, ... and know how to use them. Also get the basic medecines (stomach/diarrhea relief, basic painkillers, anti-allergy, and any prescription medecine if you require any). Remember 911 service may be unavailable for some time and you need to be able to take care of injuries. Tourniquets save lives, everyone should have one readily available.

​

I am a radio amateur and in these situations I like to have one or two portable radio for two-way communication but I realize it is not for everybody. Still, a pair of FRS/GMRS radio can be helpful. Please note that GMRS requires a (cheap) license in the USA. I would recommend this model which also allows to be used as a scanner and to program the NOAA weather frequencies (do it beforehand) and some local police/EMS/fire frequencies (if allowed in your juridiction).

Please DO NOT use a radio made for amateur radio use, where you can transmit on any frequency, such as the UV-5R; you may interfere with emergency communications, even if you can't hear them, miles away. Please stick to the FRS/GMRS frequencies. The radio above guarantees safe operation and still allows to be used as a scanner.

​

Take pictures of all your important documents (ID, properties, ...) and store them in a waterproof plastic bag. Try to keep at least your passport and driver license with you during the storm...

If you have a sump pump, try to arrange so that it can be battery powered and/or connected to your generator. If using battery power, get a battery charger and/or a generator connection, if the outage lasts and the battery runs down. Sometimes homes are not affected by the main storm but are flooded due to the lack of power around the storm and are still ruined, and that's totally preventable.

Also, beforehand, depending of the situation you might want to BLOCK your main sewage pipe. This way you might avoid sewage backflow into your home. There are normally valves already installed but in case of serious flooding (high backpressure) they sometimes are not up to the task.

​

Download a few offline movies on the Netflix app (if you have Netflix). I never lived though a hurricane but I assume after a few days/weeks, you might want some entertainment. You can also download e-books. Bonus if it's survival-related e-books.

​

Hope this helps... good luck to those affected


PS: oooo, thank you stranger for the gold, I think I never had one before ! Happy prepping :)

Life straw is not a great product. Spend a little extra and get the Sawyer. It is a better, more useful product. It just doesn't have as cool of a name.

Steel is steel mate. You can go with the expensive stuff, or with the cheap stuff - We're talking expensive at several hundred and cheap as under 20-50. I've seen 20 dollars knives made just as well as the 600 dollar knives, they just dont have the name brand. It's a chunk of steel, treated so it stands up to specific conditions and holds an edge better. It looks to be full tang - not sure what is up with the holes in the blade, or the design near the MT-5 logo. I found pictures online, looks like the steel comes out a bunch there? No idea what this design is or what purpose it could have - looks sketchy. And the holes in the blade...I mean I've seen the 5 dollar walmart knives with holes so you can create a makeshift spear but..Other then that, no idea why they are on this knife, and they cause more harm then good. You can use it for basic bushcrafting tasks but I'd be careful batoning, I've personally never heard of the brand - it could be name brand and be great, but it has some weird designs.

​

Really, steel is steel - all the fancy features cause more harm than good.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004ZAIXSC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-4

That is a 12 dollar knife, and you really won't ever need more, but there are better options. The 12 dollar knife has a thinner blade and isn't suitable to as heavy duty work, but is a great beater knife for doing anything.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Survival-Starter-4-3-Inch/dp/B00BFI8TOA/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-7

And their top of the line knives are

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Garberg-Carbon-Leather-Sheath/dp/B07B8SP4G9/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-M-12642-Stainless-Compatible-4-3-inch/dp/B01I1GITMA/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-12

There's a carbon version and stainless steel version. I'm gonna be honest...for the most part, they all do the same thing, but people want different things and fancier things - the garberg is the only full tang out of the bunch, but even their half tang knives are bulletproof, they hold up incredibly well and I've batoned with him countless times without issue. Mora, IMO makes the best knives - I have several other brands, and there are some I like better for ergonomics - but that's not the point, the point is any knife will work, steel is steel. Just find what you think looks and feels good, learn how to sharpen it and what you like, it depends on the what materials/types of trees you are working with, and what type of work you do. I prefer convex and Scandinavian grind (V Grind) knives, the Cudeman MT-5 looks to be a full flat grind - which I mean..AFIAK is mostly used in like chef knives and stuff, it's incredibly sharp but it's not durable, hitting hard objects is gonna cause knicks and it's gonna be brittle. This is all from experience, it's not like im an expert - but to be fair, I'd just keep trying different ones and see how you like it, but I wouldn't go spending crazy money, the $300 knives you see all the fancy bushcrafters use...these are what I call wall knives..They use them in the videos cause they look good but most people would just keep them at home and keep using their beater knives, because we are hard on our equipment and honestly, they work just as wall, all the fancy scalings and what not make them expensive, but they don't make them better.

TL;DR: Steel is steel. Get a cheap knife, in a better grind suited for the work your doing. All depends on what work you do, and what tress you have, soft woods, hard woods ETC.

​

Edit: Definately don't have to go with Mora, I've just always used them and they've done me well.

Yup, see: Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit lock, the thing costs $100 and the opening is like 6" x 3.5".

But if you live in NYC, no matter what kind of lock you use, if you leave a nice bike locked up outside overnight, there's a 50% chance it won't be there the next day.

because Xiaomi just flooded the market with these new scooters and 3 different companies started buying them up and slapping their logo on them. You can buy those scooters on amazon for $500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KKX4BC

This scooter only came out at the beginning of the year and it is the first electric scooter to be imported to the US in mass numbers

Those are not designed to purify water.

You want these guys: http://www.amazon.com/Potable-Aqua-Water-Purification-Tablets/dp/B0009I3T3S/

Or these: http://www.amazon.com/McNett-Aquamira-Water-Treatment-Drops/dp/B00CHRFQPI

filter? check out the Sawyer Mini: http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2

if you're in a pinch, do a little homework with using ordinary bleach ... or prepare to boil

Let's try again. Hot day in Fort Lauderdale, getting as much free beer and food as possible at an art event. Whatever.

• Lands' End Canvas Heritage Oxford Shirt - Tailored.
  
  
• Zara Chino Trousers - Tailored
  
  
• Sperry Top-Siders in Brown Suede with Brick Sole - Old, can't find a link
  
  
• Orient Black Mako Watch - Detail
  
  **Unrelated, my Imgur drag n' drop no longer works, anyone know why?

An 'airzound' the button / horn mounts on your handlebars and you can pump it back up with a bike pump

Bite my shiny metal ass.

Dont forget a lock. I use this one $80 this one is more affordable $35

drunkriding requires lighting. People seem to like cygolite.

[Nice singlespeed tool $20 ] (https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM)

That bike has rack mounts. Racks mean you can bring more than one case of beer home at a time.

I dont carry much else on the singlespeed. A small $2 patch kit, tire levers and an inflator.

Edit: The Modified Sheldon, credit: 802bikeguy

I'm a fan. You can buy one yourself for 500$ apparently the company was trying to keep the manufacturer a secret but here it is:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AIy0AbAF7YV96

Get a sawyer mini instead, about the same price and you don't have to bend down and stick your face in the water.

Sawyer Products SP128 Mini Water Filtration System, Single, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1FJXCbNV7FQ2S

May I recommend getting an airhorn? http://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC

As a motorcyclist that has been hit twice by motorists not paying attention, I feel like I've got some hard earned wisdom on this topic. You really have to let the pride of right-of-way go, get out of their way and let them know of your presence. Right-of-way doesn't matter anymore when you're in the hospital.

Usually there are always debates about a Seiko and the Citizen Eco Drive watch. You can get a Seiko automatic mechanical watch for under $150 that uses the popular and reliable 7s26 movement. Another popular watch would be one of the Orient Mako dive watches. I already own a Seiko SNK807 watch and just ordered a Seiko Orange Monster online (both of which use the 7s26 movement).

The reason why I chose the Seiko over the Citizen is because I wanted mechanical watch with the sweeping second hand rather than a quartz jumping second hand. But, with the Citizen, it'll never stop (unless you live in a cave or the sun blows up). Automatic watches will stop after about 40 hours of no movement.

Orient Mako is a very popular dive watch. It comes in a wide variety of colors (with black and blue being most popular). http://www.amazon.com/Orient-CEM65001B-Black-Automatic-Watch/dp/B001EWEQ3A/ref=sr_1_22?s=watches&ie=UTF8&qid=1325124897&sr=1-22


Here is the one I own. The SNK80* comes in various ways also. Black, blue, nylon strap, metal bracelet, green, rubber strap, etc
http://www.amazon.com/Seiko-SNK807K2-Automatic-Cloth-Weave/dp/B000HGDWXE/ref=sr_1_32?s=watches&ie=UTF8&qid=1325124945&sr=1-32

The odd looking orange monster I just ordered and can't wait to get it :D Comes in orange or black with a rubber strap or metal bracelet http://www.amazon.com/Seiko-SKX781-Orange-Monster-Automatic/dp/B000EPLR2G/ref=sr_1_1?s=watches&ie=UTF8&qid=1325125001&sr=1-1

Here is a simple filtered search I done on Amazon for mechanical watches: http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_p_36_0?bbn=377110011&qid=1325124882&rh=n%3A377110011%2Cp_n_target_audience_browse-bin%3A379281011%2Cp_36%3A10000-19900%2Cp_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A2205662011%2Cp_n_feature_browse-bin%3A379300011&rnid=386698011&low-price=50&high-price=199&x=0&y=0#/ref=sr_pg_1?rh=n%3A377110011%2Cp_n_target_audience_browse-bin%3A379281011%2Cp_36%3A5000-19900%2Cp_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A2205662011%2Cp_n_feature_browse-bin%3A379300011&bbn=377110011&ie=UTF8&qid=1325124945

Here is a filtered search for quartz watches: http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_p_36_0?bbn=377110011&qid=1325124882&rh=n%3A377110011%2Cp_n_target_audience_browse-bin%3A379281011%2Cp_36%3A10000-19900%2Cp_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A2205662011%2Cp_n_feature_browse-bin%3A379300011&rnid=386698011&low-price=50&high-price=199&x=0&y=0#/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_browse-b_2?rh=n%3A377110011%2Cp_n_target_audience_browse-bin%3A379281011%2Cp_36%3A5000-19900%2Cp_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A2205662011%2Cp_n_feature_browse-bin%3A379305011&bbn=377110011&ie=UTF8&qid=1325125299&rnid=379279011

Quartz is more accurate I believe, though mechanical watches are usually accurate to +/- 5 to 10 seconds a week (or was it day?). If the watch isn't solar powered then you'll need to replace the battery on the watch every so often. Also with the non-stop Invicta watches you see on Amazon, I've heard some people say some bad things. For sure brands though are Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in your price range. I don't know how BI4L they'll be though. Don't solar panels lose their effieciency over time? Also the 7s26 movement uses a few plastic gears. I don't know much about the insides of the Mako. They should all last 30 years easily though with some maintenance (taking for a tune up every 5-10 years).

You haven't seen "bullshit expensive" watches.

Right here, but it's unavailable. Too many people were taking advantage of the savings :(

Was at Green Bay two seasons ago when we were last in the playoffs.

It's likely to get insanely cold there, so don't just layer up get hand warmers, foot warmers (you can buy both at any local Walmart in Minny), wear at least 4-5 layers with several being fleece, including thermal socks, long thermal underwear, and waterproof shoes. It was -30 and we barely survived it in GB; not sure if it'll be as bad in MN for you.

Doubt you'll have any problem beating them btw.

Wish I could buy the tix from you man; how much do you want for them?

http://i.imgur.com/hNP6Mhe.jpg

Casio Edifice EF503D

You can get them in black as well. They really capture the speedmaster look well at an order of magnitude less cost.

Black

White

Rumor has it that it is a Xiaomi Mi. Amazon link for comparison: https://www.amazon.com/Electric-long-range-Fold-n-Carry-Ultra-Lightweight-electric/dp/B076KKX4BC?ref=ast_p_ep

https://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC

I don't care what earbuds/earphones you're wearing, when this goes off ten feet behind you while rollerblading you'll jump right the ($&*#% out of your skin...

Still available: http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371749208&sr=8-3&keywords=bucket+toilet+seat

Get the Sawyer mini instead for $19: http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2

Anyone looking at this should look at the Sawyer as a (better) alternative.

Lifestraw:

• 264 gallons total filtration per straw.
  
• Shelf Life: 5 years when stored at room temperature (package may say 3 years).
  
• .2 micron filtration
  
  Sawyer filter:
  
  
• 100,000 gallons (actually more, but this is the guarantee)
  
• Shelf life: no limit on shelf life. Only temperature constraint is it should not be allowed to freeze.
  
• .1 micron filtration
  
  Lifestraw is $20. Sawyer is $20. I own the Sawyer and the flow through it is easy. It comes with a squeeze bag, but also attaches to regular bottles. Fill an empty Pepsi/Coke/Water bottle with nasty water, screw on the Sawyer and you are good to go. It works with Platypus bags, and as an inline or end filter for any hydration bladder.
  
  
  If there is something special about the Lifestraw that I am missing, please let me know. I see tons of news, charaties buying them for 3rd world countries, and outdoor enthusiast recommending it. I do not see any advantage it has over a Sawyer filter.
  
  Edit: One comparison: http://prepforshtf.com/sawyer-mini-water-filter-vs-lifestraw/
  
  For me, the multiple ways of using the Sawyer have been the biggest benefit. I've used my Squeeze in a bucket gravity system, attached to bottles (ultralight backpacking) and with a straw (like a Lifestraw). I will often squeeze enough water to fill a Gatorade bottle or two before moving away from the water source. Now I have the mini and the flow rate is even better - best of any filter I've ever used, and it is still incredibly versatile.

Use the link below to donate .5% of your purchase to charity.
Amazon Smile URL: https://smile.amazon.com/Casio-EF503D-1AV-Edifice-Stainless-Steel/dp/B003URWNOG

This bot is still in test phase. Please PM me for suggestions, complaints or questions.

I went this route from day 1 of my commuter purchase. I love them: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO

I reduced the tension nearly all the way, and it's super easy to clip in and out. You will fall. Know that right now. You'll forget and you will fall.

The nice thing is having the platform pedal on one side so you can wear street shoes when you so desire.

Packs- Your pack is usually recommended to be one of the last things you pick up. That being said the Osprey Exos is a great pack and one of the staple packs you'll see. Wait until you get all of your gear and then go to REI or another outfitter and see how big of one you think you'll need.

Sleeping Bags- It generally won't get too cold so you can get away with a 30 or 40 degree bag. Right at the start of your trip it may be a little brisk so just have an extra fleece on hand. A lot of people like the Enlightened Equipment Revelation quilts. They're great and lightweight, but expensive and some side sleepers don't like them.

Tents- There's millions of options, Big Agnes, Six Moon Designs, HMD, and tons more I can think of. The Big Agnes Fly Creek UL 2 is popular and lightweight, its going for $265 online right now. If that's too expensive I'd say go for the Six Moon Designs Skyscape Scout for $125.

Trekking Poles- These aren't super important unless your tent requires them. Best ones I've seen for a decent price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XM0YGW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cooking- You can go the alcohol stove route, I don't like it because you'll end up carrying more weight in alcohol than with a regular stove. The BRS 3000t is probably the lightest and cheapest stove you can find. For pots just a simple titanium pot will work.

Good luck on your hike!

Sawyer Products SP128 Mini Water Filtration System, Single, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MzGzDbKTT58GD

I have an in-line attachment for hydration pack.

There’s a little pump too.

Water Purifier Pump with Replaceable Carbon 0.01 Micron Water Filter, 4 Filter Stages, Portable Outdoor Emergency and Survival Gear - Camping, Hiking, Backpacking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVCBWVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MBGzDbY1W35D3

Drop the Life Straw and use a Sawyer Mini.

Many states have passed the Restroom Access Act (Ally's Law) for people with specific medical conditions to have access to bathroom. You can also request for a card here.

In any case, I too have a similar set up, but in my car in case of an emergency in the middle of a drive. It's a bucket but with a toilet seat that you can get on Amazon

What is your plan for going to the bathroom if there is no running water/toilets/privacy? At the least get a bucket toilet so that you have some place to put it all.

If you plan on doing some clean up, get face masks/respirators and protective eyewear appropriate for that. If you are wearing work gloves, put latex/nitrile gloves under that. There are gloves that are a bit longer than the usual wrist length. Any cut/wound becomes an opportunity for infection. Make sure you have enough first aid supplies to both thoroughly clean and bandage any cut/wound.

Have good "hand awareness" -that is be mindful of not touching your face. All the gloves and ppe in the world won't do any good if you rub your gloved hand over your eyes/nose/mouth and directly administer cooties to yourself. That is another reason for some sort of mask/eyewear -so that you don't rub gunk in places you don't want gunk.

Be careful! Stay safe! I hope your house is ok.
edit: formatting fail

MVMT watches are well known for being low quality "fashion" watches. These fashion brands are usually aimed at a younger audience so it makes sense they advertise on podcasts. In my eyes they aren't even worth the ~$100 price point. Sure they'll last a while, but so has my 10 year old Timex I got for 20 bucks, or some dollar store one I got as a kid.

 


If you are actually looking for a quality ~$100 watch, look at Seiko, Citizen or Orient. /r/watches is a very good place to learn, and you might find, like countless other beginners, that the Seiko SNK-809 is for you (my first "good" watch was the SNK-807), which is $50-$70 and a real mechanical automatic ("perpetual" for those of you across the pond) movement. Anything from Seiko 5 range is an incredible starter automatic watch.

 

Do some research if an automatic movement vs quartz movement is right for you (quartz is the basic battery operated watch that the "guts" can be found in watches ranging from $500 Movados to dollar store watches). I REALLY like seeing how things work so I really appreciate the mechanics behind an automatic watch. The downside to them is that they aren't as accurate as quartz (a normal range of inaccuracy is like +-10 seconds a day). But you'll never have to change a battery if that is any consolation. If that puts you off, keep in mind that a $10,000 Rolex has an automatic movement good for +- 5 seconds per day. And as a final PSA, stay away from Invicta. Their automatic movements, cheap pricing, and flashy looks may look enticing, but quality control is horrendous. Just as with any potential purchase, do some research on a watch you think looks promising. Give the model name a search on google or /r/watches and try to find a consensus.

 

For those of you who have been thinking they want a watch but haven't started exploring styles (which is the demographic companies like MVMT pander to with their styles) here is the classic "diver" style watch with the Rolex Submariner. A cheaper automatic dive watch I've been wanting for a LONG time is the Seiko SKX007, which obviously pays homage to the Sub, but is about $5800 cheaper. I'd replace the bracelet with something better than what is there though. Maybe I'll get it after college...

Another well loved cheap diver is from Orient, the Mako, though I prefer its big brother, the Ray, even though that is even closer looking to the Submariner.

The absolute best in budget vs quality in a dive watch is the ~$40 Casio MDV-106. You can get a decent 22 mm steel bracelet for almost the price of the watch and it will look fantastic if that is your preference. I've borrowed my brother's a few times and the thing feels like quality and has been put to the test plenty of times to prove itself as a real dive watch. He goes swimming, hiking, plays sports with it, drops it on concrete, etc. Rugged yet elegant looking. Good size too. Highly recommended first diver or first watch!

If you are looking for a real dress watch with "minimalist design" that doesn't look tacky like MVMT's (sorry, just my opinion), there are plenty in the Seiko 5 line like I said, or the lovely Orient Bambino.

 

Came back to say that if you don't really know if you want a watch, don't think you need to spend $100 on your first. Who knows, you might not like how it feels or looks on you or whatever. For the absolute cheapest of cheap, get yourself a Timex or Casio quartz watch. These brands are well renowned for their reliability. This way you'll end up spending only $15-20 on a watch that will last and work forever (obviously with battery changes along the way).


Edit: Some links

Edit: Also, they are purportedly just rebranded cheap Chinese watches. http://www.aliexpress.com/cheap/cheap-mvmt-watches.html

Honestly? You're going to want to just go to a knife forum- this is a good example of one, or BladeForums.com is another- and just immerse yourself in it. Read posts, ask questions, salivate over knives, etc.

Here's a guide on knife grinds and the differences between them. Here's another.

Some good, popular companies for folding knives are Spyderco, Benchmade, Kershaw, and Cold Steel. All of these also make fixed blades, but only Cold Steel has anywhere near as many fixed blade designs available as they have folders.

Some popular companies for fixed blade knives are Ka-Bar, Morakniv, Ontario Knife Company, ESEE knives, BlackJack Knives and Fallkniven.

Any knives by any of those companies will likely be good, solid knives for whatever their intended purpose is- which brings us to another point, the intended purpose of a knife.

Different knives are obviously intended for different things, and a good knife for bushcraft might make an incredibly shitty one for cooking, with the While the Becker BK2 might happily slash apart a log or firewood, it's so fucking thick that it'll take a lot more work to push it through food, for example. Alternatively, while the Benchmade 530 is a great EDC knife that will happily cut food or cardboard all day, if you try its super-thing blade against wood or rope you'll be in for a bad time and might even need a new knife. Basically, there isn't really any knife that's "good" for everything. There are knives that are BAD for everything, but that's a different story entirely.

If you have any questions about anything I said, feel free to ask. Like I said- that's a good way to learn about knives.

That's their sale tactic. They're always on sale, nobody has bought one of those at retail price. You kind of get what you pay for, if not less. Personally wouldn't go for those models, since they are blatant copies of a Rolex Daytona. If you want a good watch at those prices, check Seiko and Casio Edifice. Check this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003URWNOG/ref=pd_aw_sims_5?pi=SY115&simLd=1

[Streamlight Stylus Pro pen light.] (https://smile.amazon.com/Streamlight-66118-Stylus-PenLight-Holster/dp/B0015UC17E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519722455&sr=8-4&keywords=streamlight&th=1)

Kershaw Shuffle II.

Mora Companion.

There are showers there. I think they cost $10 and they're usually not the warmest.

I don't think I've ever taken a shower at fest (gross I know). What a lot of people do is buy solar showers and use those. Yeah, they're not quite as thorough but they do the trick.

I'm basically married at this point so I have nobody to impress.

Maybe.

I'd set up somewhere in a National Forest in my general area (NC/SC/TN) with plenty of water sources, some fish and game, and an escape route if wildfires get too close.

I have enough Boy Scouts and armchair bushcraft experience to work with an axe and cordage to put together a decent enough shelter--it probably wouldn't take more than a month--and I'd try to setup a decent camp latrine away from water sources.

In addition to my BOB gear*, I'd spend some of the money on a used wheelbarrow, shovel, axe, splitting wedge, $50 worth of cheap cordage/bungee cords/carabiners/tarps/duct tape from Harbor Freight, $10 worth of BIC lighters (can still be used as firestarters once the fuel is gone to supplement the fire gear in my BOB), a gallon of bleach (santize the latrine, backup water purification), a decent cheap WalMart fishing rod/tackle (plus the license). Let's estimate $200 for all that.

Can I scrounge? I'd get a dozen or so free 5-gallon buckets from food service operations and several Arizona tea jugs out of recycling bins. I'd hit up the bulk Goodwill office to grab extra clothes/blankets/bandanas/towel for $.80/lb. I could probably even score a decent pot/pan and plate/flatware/coffee mug to go with the minimal cooking gear in my BOB, maybe even a grate from an old rusted grill. If you're going to be there a year, it's probably worth the couple of bucks.

I don't know much about trapping, but a handful of connibears and steel wire snares aren't too expensive and I'll be there a while so it might be worthwhile to spend $25 on those and a cheap bottle of musk. While I'm at it, let's get a couple of spring-loaded rat traps while we're at Harbor Freight to nail to trees and try get some tree-rats for dinner. At this point, I'm probably going to have to get a hunting license so let's upgrade to the annual premium fishing + hunting license for $50 as it has more privileges.

Let's add some speed-fishing hooks for $11 as well, assuming they're legal in the area.

Oh, I'd better total up what we have so far - $200 for misc tools, $75 for licenses/trapping stuff, and let's drop $25 on a basic cheap slingbow, $5 for an extra band, and $25 for a few cheap arrows from Walmart. Let's guesstimate we're at $300 at this point on tools and food procurement.

I don't plan on catching a lot of meals this way, but I need something to do with the time and if I can catch one critter a month it'll be great for the fresh food to supplement the beans and rice. Another guy in this thread did a cost analysis for a year's supply of rice/beans/oil for $227.88. Let's add a few iodized salt containers and cheap multivitamins from Dollar Tree and then go hit the salvage grocery store for cheap spices/teas. Say $250 for my food supply.

That leaves around $450 left. At this point, I feel like I have some of the basics covered and can start spending money/effort on a few things to make that year go by easier. I love coffee, but it's an expensive habit on a tight budget. Since I'll have an abundance of time, I'll get my coffee fix by buying green unroasted coffee beans - the cheapest bulk bag of green beans from Sweet Maria's is $5.50/lb but is $87.70 for a 20 lb sack and they have a 15% coupon code so let's estimate $90 shipped for 20 lbs. That gives me just under an ounce a day so it's a splurge but I'm willing to spend $100 to get the beans and a $10 french press from Ikea and I'm pretty sure it won't take me too long to find a couple of river rocks that would work as an impromptu mortar/pestle.

I also like to smoke a pipe maybe once a day which is maybe an ounce a week. I already have a spare pipe and tobacco in my EDC bag so this would go with me, but I'll make do with the cheap drugstore pipe tobacco marketed for RYO cigs at $14/lb shipped. We'll grab 3 of those 1 lb packs for $42 to keep me in my daily smoke.

I have a handcrank radio in my BOB and I could kinda cheat and say I already have that folding solar charger I plan on buying someday, but let's not and I'll cough up the $38 for this one. I'll have my battery bank and flashlight that's in my BOB plus my iPhone in my pocket and my Kindle I keep in my EDC backpack. The plan will be that I'll find a nice sunny spot to permanently mount the charger and I can go plug in the battery bank each day to keep my phone topped off. That way I have a radio for news and I can load a lot of music/audiobooks/ebooks/games to help keep me sane. I'm also going to buy an extra pair of earbuds from DollarTree as well as a few bars of Ivory soap a $9 Solar Shower from Amazon. Gotta stay clean and having a shower is a huge morale boost.

Speaking of books, I'm probably going to hit the library on my way out of town and check out a few survival/homesteading books. I'll have plenty of money to pay the late fines after I win the boatload of money from my uncle.

At this point, I've spent:

$350 on Tools/Food Procurement
$250 for boring basic calories food supply
$100 on coffee (important)
$50 in tobacco (likewise important)
$50 for electronics

So $700 total. Do the rules state I have stay in the woods, or can I walk into town from time to time? If so, I'll keep the rest of the money for a weekly walk into town to spend my $3.85 allowance and visit the library. If I can't, I'm going to probably spend the rest on a cheap used rifle and as many rounds as I can buy. I'll have my 9mm Glock and a few clips of ammo from my BOB, but that's no fun to hunt with. I'd also try to figure out a way to get a cheap guitar from somewhere if possible - I could probably figure out a song or two in a year.

Let's say the above plan is approved, and I'm going to the woods for a year. Hoo-rah! That's a lot of sacks of beans and rice - I'm glad I bought a used wheelbarrow! Once I get to a campsite I like, I'll start divying out enough rice/beans/salt into empty 5-gallon bucks and dig a pit to bury them in--probably two or three to make sure it's not all in one place if I didn't bury it deep enough and a bear smells it. The next order of business would be setting up a semi-permanent lean-to glamping shelter, cooking pit, latrine, a sand filter for pre-filtering water before adding into my Sawyer and storing it away in the Arizona tea containers.

I'd spend my days playing around with the hunting/trapping/fishing gear, reading, playing guitar badly, and writing in my journal. Once a week or so, I'd shower, put on my best shirt, and hike to town for a visit to the library and to buy a beer or some other treat. If could access Wi-Fi it'd be great to set up a blog--I could take pictures and write on my phone and upload to a free WordPress site whenever I'm in town. I'm pretty sure I could get a book deal out of this as well.

Perhaps a loud noise maker (air horn) would have sufficed as a next step. Pepper-spray is more of a last-resort deterrent, something that should only be used when one is in peril (but only you can be the judge of that).

A loud, sudden noise will both startle the harasser and attract attention from others to your plight.

On my bike, the angle from my handlebars to 2 feet in front of the tire is different from my eyeballs to 2 feet in front of the tire.

Seriously, think about it this way; do you just barely peek over the top of your handlebars when you ride? Unless your seat is all the way down, and you have "ape hanger" handlebars...

Shameless recommendation for excellent bicycle air horn. Loud enough for cars to hear. If you bike commute, give it a look.

I've tried those, but have had...less-than desirable results. Apparently I lack the sort of coordination needed to use one without peeing all over myself. 😆

So I did the next best thing and created my very own Whiz Palace! It's essentially a large bucket with a toilet seat on top; I secure a small trash bag inside and fill with cedar shavings (like you'd put in a small pet cage), to mitigate any noise or smell. The toilet is then placed inside a pop-up shower tent and voila! I also include toilet paper and other accouterments. I change the bag and cedar daily. It's not pretty, but it beats the heck out of stumbling to a porta-potty at 5am.

Here's an Amazon link. Probably mobile sorry fellas.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wzHADbT7E0XNC

I wrote this up earlier today for someone who wanted to start getting prepped on ~$75/Month but also wanted to not have to cook the foods. I did include some long term storage as the first step anyway because it's so cheap and easy, but so far as consumables go, this is a good start for you.

--------------------------------------------

A lot of this is a shelf life and storage space issue. If you have plenty of room for storage, I'd start like this:

• Month 1: This doesn't meet your doesn't-need-to-be-cooked guideline, but it's a really solid start to bulk up on available calories and requires minimal cash and effort, so it's going in anyway. Ignore it if it's not for you.
  
  Buy two 50lb bags of white rice from a place like Costco or Sam's Club. Find 3 food safe 5 gallon buckets with lids. Get Mylar Bags and O2 Absorbers. Then hit Youtube for instructions on what to do with them. If the Mylar bags bit will hold you back from doing this, then skip them and just clean the buckets then dump rice in them straight. Seal, date, set aside. That's 160,000 calories in month 1. Given normal pantry supplies that stretches things out quite a ways. Plan on rotating out at 7ish years if put straight into the bucket and 20 years if you use the Mylar. Realistically, with Mylar, white rice may be good for much longer than 20 years (most people say 30, but for the minimal investment I'd rotate earlier to be safe).
  
  
• Month 2:
  
  Grab a Water Bob (not right now though, hurricane season has prices high and stocks low for them). Also, a Sawyer Water Filter or two. That gives you an opportunity to grab an extra hundred gallons of water in your bathtub initially given enough warning, and some water purification options later on.
  
  
• Month 3:
  
  Assuming you have storage capacity, start looking at #10 cans of food. Those are the cans that are around a foot tall and very wide. Look for things that you would eat and would be usuable in your daily lives, but also ones that would be calorie dense. For example, refried beans, nacho cheese, baked beans, white potatoes, chick peas, chili with beans, etc. Those are things you can use in recipes at home, but can pick them up and store them for a couple of years first. Getting them in the larger can is a better return on investment/dollar than buying smaller ones.
  
  
• Month 4: This is probably more what you were looking for.
  
  If your pantry isn't topped up with the things your family normally eats, drop that money to get a little deeper on those things. Velveeta cheese, crackers, cans of soup, noodles, peanut butter/jelly, canned vegetables/fruit, pasta/sauce, salsa, dried/canned beans, seasonings, canned meat, canned chili, etc. Date them and make sure to work through the oldest first. Having the normal foods you eat in bulk will likely end up being what gets you through most things (like the current hurricane season, job loss, winter blizzard, etc). Spending on these things can be used to fill out whatever is left of your budget when it gets partially used up on other things. I'd also maybe consider having some flats of bottled water at home as well. I usually keep 4-7 Costco sized ones on hand for my SO and I.
  
  
• Month 5:
  
  Start looking at longer term bulk water storage. I like 5 gallon stackable water cubes as they're easier to move and use and you buy them as you have a little extra cash here and there, but if you want to bump the budget up a bit for a month and your wife won't look at you like you're crazy, a 55 gallon barrel is a better price per gallon than the individual cubes. Sometimes there's just no replacing having your own clean water source ready to go. Barring all of that, if your family will use them just grab a bunch of flats of bottled water and rotate them. Stacked high they don't take up a ton of floor space.
  
  
• Month 6 and Beyond:
  
  At this point you're pretty well set initially for both water and food. Keep the pantry stocked and rotating. Add on for long term stored water as you see fit and maybe invest in something like a Big Berkey if you really want to drop some money into it. At that point I'd probably begin considering longer term food storage. More rice, add in some dry beans (roughly 5 year shelf life in Mylar/Buckets), and if you're feeling really into it you can get unground wheat and that will last 30 years or better in Mylar/Buckets. You'll just need to have a hand crank grinder or two to use it.
  
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------
  
  I get wanting ready to eat foods, and that's pretty easy to do and a great place to start, but as one last recommendation... grab yourself a Propane Burner and a high pressure hose for it so that you can use regular propane tanks. You may be able to eat cold soup out of the can, but it's a lot more comforting when it's warm, and you can pretty easily have the ability to add more of your foods into your diet (like spaghetti or mac and cheese) when you can still have a burner to work with.

Jetboils boil water better than almost anything. If you're eating freeze-dried mountain house meals or something, you can't really beat it. Otherwise, they're just like any other canister stove.

If you want something simple/light/cheap, you could get something like:

This BRS Stove and

This Ti pot or a bigger one for more people/larger meals

and a canister

I recommend getting a U-Lock along with an extension cable. You want to put the U-Lock somewhere through the rear triangle like this.
This locks the rear wheel and the frame. Then you want to loop the extension cable through the U-Lock and put it through your front tire so it is also secure. Kryptonite, Abus, and On Guard are all good lock brands. Something like this lock would work fine, but there are more expensive options if you want to be more secure. I personally use this lock. All locks are about buying time because an angle grinder can cut through any lock in a few minutes. I suggest parking it to something secure, something public, and well-lit. Also, make sure to register your bike through TAPS because if someone steals your bike or puts a lock on it, they won't be able to help you. Good luck!

The Bushcraft crowd swear by the Mora's and they are on sale today on amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ZAIXSC/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497367111&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=morakniv+deal+of+the+day

I have a Ulock and looped flex-cable. Chains are heavy, and easier to break.

For ulocks, you want to get the smallest one possible that will still let you lock to a pole. That extra space is what lets thiefs get a jack in there to pop it.

My ususal three links I give out to people on theft prevention:

Chicago Bike Blog article

CDOT

Chicago Ambasador's PDF

Also, remember to keep you bike locked someplace safe overnight like in your apartment, or in your buildings storage unit, especially until you have a good feel about how safe your area is at night for your bike.

Just lock it properly. Sturdy u-lock and a cable. The goal is to make it not worth a thief's time. So a more expensive bike requires more sophisticated deterrents.

Priorities when locking:

1. U-lock through frame, one wheel, and rack; cable through other wheel
   
2. U-lock through frame and rack; cable through wheels
   
3. Worst case scenario: cable through frame and wheels; u-lock to rack
   
   ---
   
   An example of the lock/cable setup can be found here: amazon
   
   Personally, I use a slim u-lock like this because it's lighter, but it has the draw back of being more difficult to find the right fit for some racks.
   
   If you would like to know more on the topic this video is a great resource.

If your gonna carry a knife make it one that can be used for more than one thing. I keep a Becker Kabar in my glovebox. Its a pound of razor sharp steel that will work as anything you need in a survival situation and lop off any part of someone you swing it at if you have too.

I regularly travel deep outdoors so I keep a Flint steel, lifestraw, crank powered flashlight, Becker Kabar, along with cordage and wire for snares. All in a neat little kit I sling over my shoulder if I get out of my car on a hike or in case I breakdown deep woods.

Ok that was longer than needed but point being if you need a knife buy a damn knife

Just a heads up for any other city riders - this bike horn has saved my ass several times when traffic suddenly starts to come into the bike lane. It's very loud, so don't use it on pedestrians, but it'll definitely get the attention of motorists.

Sawyer mini for $15.46

There is a lot wrong with this list, so I'm just going to work down it one by one with my thoughts on the matter.

USB flameless lighter? Why? That is going to be unreliable, at best. Throw a few BIC lighters and some stormproof matches in there and be done with it. IF you want to be fancy, get something built to be rugged, that will stand up to use in the field:

https://www.amazon.ca/Ultimate-Survival-Technologies-Floating-Lighter/dp/B00C85NBA6/ref=sr_1_2?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482173178&sr=1-2&keywords=camping+lighter

Speaking of, I didn't see any sort of firestarting material. Warmth is going to be important, and you need as few steps as possible between you and fire. Get some quality firestarters. I am trying to keep all my links relevant from amazon.ca, so some of the brands I'm most familiar with aren't there. But these work well (though there are options from Wetfire and other brands that take up less space):

https://www.amazon.ca/Ultimate-Survival-Technologies-Fire-Stix/dp/B00C6SHODK/ref=sr_1_20?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482173338&sr=1-20&keywords=emergency+fire+starter

What is with the mall-ninja "tactical" hatchet? That is a lot of weight and not a lot of utility. You'd be better served with a reliable and lightweight folding saw, and a good full-tang fixed-blade knife. Something like a 7 inch Corona saw:

https://www.amazon.ca/Corona-Cutting-Tools-RS-7041/dp/B00004R9YN/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482173467&sr=1-1&keywords=corona+folding+saw

If you insist on carrying a hatchet (and their function in a bugout situation is debatable, especially for the weight) get something quality like an Estwing:

https://www.amazon.ca/Estwing-E24A-14-Inch-Sportmans-Sheath/dp/B00BNQR4SG/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482173510&sr=1-1&keywords=estwing+hatchet

Nothing wrong with duct tape, but you'd do well to wrap just maybe 3-4 meters of it around a small core (like from doggy waste bags, or even just around itself).

The self-crank radio/flashlight/phone charger is shit. You also don't need four lights, especially if all of them are crap. Buy one good flashlight, and maybe one good headlamp.

A flashlight like a Nitecore P12 or something that runs on an 18650 and offers long runtime would be ideal. If you buy a diffuser cap for it, you can replace the lantern. Pick up some spare, high quality 18650 cells, as well. The P12 has SOS and beacon modes, which will run for days at a time, in addition to a nice throw and excellent brightness on Medium and High.

https://www.amazon.ca/Nitecore-Flashlight-Lumens-Meters-Distance/dp/B00PQE1D2E/ref=sr_1_2?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482173859&sr=1-2&keywords=nitecore+P12

As for headlamps, those don't need to be super bright. You want something with enough brightness and floodiness to work around camp. But ideally you also want a red-light or low-light mode for night time, when you don't need to destroy your night vision just because you need to take a piss or something.

https://www.amazon.ca/TACTIKKA-CONSTANT-LIGHTING-HEADLAMP-DESERT/dp/B00GCGIGHK/ref=sr_1_14?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482173989&sr=1-14&keywords=petzl+headlamp

The powerbank thing in the crank radio is crap, only 1000mah. Not enough to charge most modern smart phones even 25%. Figure that of that 1000mah, ~25% will be lost just due to inefficiency in the charging process. Get a 10,000mah or bigger high quality battery, with 2.1A ports, and be done with it:

https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerCore-Portable-Ultra-Compact-High-speed-Charging-Technology/dp/B0194WDVHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482173708&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+usb+power+bank

Combine the money you'd spend on the shitty folding knife and the shitty Gerber multitool, and buy a proper multi-tool. You don't need two folding knives.

The Leatherman Wingman is a good value, though I prefer a nicer quality one like the Charge TTi, but at four times the price it may not be worth it just for an S30V blade.

https://www.amazon.ca/Leatherman-2996-831426-Wingman-Multi-Tool/dp/B005DI0XM4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482174264&sr=8-1&keywords=leatherman+wave

Ditch the camp toilet paper, that stuff is like wiping your ass with cardboard. Get some biodegradable camp wipes from an outdoor store. You can now use these to clean your ass, and they also are useful for wiping your hands, or taking whore baths.

Same with the camp soap. Are you bugging out or camping for a week? Nothing you are going to do in a bugout situation is going to necessitate body soap. Toothbrush, floss, deodorant.

Ditch the giant first aid kit full of crap you don't need. Those things are heavy and 80 of the 85 pieces are just different sized bitch stickers. Build your own first aid kit tailored around the likely injuries you would face: sprains, cuts, burns. Maybe throw some Quik Clot Z-pack gauze or a tourniquet (CAT or similar) in there for larger trauma, if that is a concern to you. Limit the bitch stickers to 5-10. All gauze, tape, trauma pads, alcohol wipes, tincture of iodine, moleskin for blisters, tweezers, surgical shears, gloves, maybe burn cream. Small containers of medications you might need: aspirin, antihistamines like Diphenhydramine, anti-diarrheals, etc.

That survival paracord bracelet thing is garbage. You already have 100ft of paracord in your list (which you could probably cut down to 50ft). You don't need some shitty firestarter, whistle, and compass thing. Buy a real lensatic sighting compass. Not going to do you much good without a map and the ability to understand it, anyway.

https://www.amazon.ca/UST-Survival-Essentials-Lensatic-Compass/dp/B005X1YI3Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482174799&sr=1-5&keywords=compass

You have both a cookset AND a mug/pot. This is extra redundant and not needed in a bugout situation. Stick to food you don't have to prepare. Caloric density is your friend. Jerky, EPIC bars, Clif bars, etc.

If you need to boil water, use a single-wall metal canteen (NOT a thermos). Remove the plastic lid, fill with water, set in your fire. Widemouth canteens like those by Klean Kanteen are multi-purpose (multipurpose is your friend). You can sterilize water, you can cook and eat food out of it (because of the large opening), and you can fill with hot water, wrap in a sock, and warm your sleep system.

https://www.amazon.ca/Klean-Kanteen-Stainless-Bottle-27-Ounce/dp/B0027W6WHE/ref=sr_1_sc_4?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482174908&sr=1-4-spell&keywords=klean+kanteen+widemouth

You don't need a can opener if you have a good multitool.

Lifestraws suck ass. They only work as a straw, and I am going to guess you don't want to get your water by drinking out of puddles exclusively. Get a Sawyer Squeeze mini filter. This can be used in-line with a hydration bladder, can be used like a Lifestraw, or can be used to filter an fill your water storage containers/bladder:

https://www.amazon.ca/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482175065&sr=1-1&keywords=sawyer+mini

One seriously lacking area for you is your sleep system. A tarp and a space blanket are not going to keep you functionally warm. You might survive a night, but you won't be useful the next day.

At the BARE minimum, you should get a good, reflective, breathable bivvy sack, like this one from SOL, AND a sleeping pad. A bivvy will reflect heat back onto you, helping with heat lost through convection, but no sleeping bag will help with heat lost through conduction (you touching the cold ground). That is why a sleeping pad is mandatory. I have used the Escape bivvy and the Klymit pad linked here together, and both kept me comfortably warm to about 50 degrees F. Below that, I've had to augment with base layers or jackets, and that still sucked. If you are hoping to sleep in below freezing temperatures, you'll need a properly sorted ultralight sleeping bag.

https://www.amazon.ca/Adventure-Medical-Kits-Escape-Bivvy/dp/B00EVGD0FQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482175280&sr=1-1&keywords=SOL+escape

https://www.amazon.ca/Klymit-06SVGR01C-Camping-Mattress-Green-Grey/dp/B007RFG0NM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1482175199&sr=1-1&keywords=sleep+pad

Other recommendations of mine would be to take survival, medical and foraging guides and put them on a smartphone, along with a GPS mapping software and pre-downloaded offline topographical maps at 1:24k resolution of your main bugout areas and 1:100k resolution elsewhere. Something like Gaia GPS for iOS or Backcountry Navigator Pro for Android:

The Sawyer Mini is an great all around filter that can be purchased for $20. tablets aren't a bad idea either. Do not waste your money on a lifestraw though. the sawyers are good for like 10-100x the lifespan(in gallons of course)

The Evolution mini U from Krypto just aren't that strong. I've seen people leverage them off, once with a hockey stick and once with a piece of rebar. They're really meant as a delaying action for messengers that aren't leaving their bike unsupervised for 8+ hours.

The one I specified is a big, burly bastard of a lock. Som'bitch weighs like 5 pounds. 18mm diameter hasp, forget leveraging it off, pain in the ass to cut through with a torch or grinder and too big to get bolt cutters on. Hasp is too small to get a scissor jack into. Simply too thick to leverage. Double-roll tumbler lock with negative pinning so you can't bump it. Boron Steel that's doped with cutting-wheel fouling polymers. Independent locking bars on the hasps so you need to make two cuts to get it through.

It can be cut, but you're going to need a acetylene rig or a lot of time with a serious battery powered angle grinder to get through it. If anything, it's just a big, TPB style "Fuck Off" to people looking opportunistically. Nothing is going to save you from a complex attack if you're one of those idiots that locks up your $4,500 carbon frame outside overnight.

If you're locking someplace as visible as the MF Station for extended periods of time with a bike that has a value over $1,500, I recommend both the Chain and ULock versions of this line at the same time, as that necessitates two sets of tools for each job. Run that U through the rear triangle and wheel, the chain through the front wheel and main portion of the frame.

Im going to agree with everyone else. Get a U-lock. I When I first got my Trek 7.3 in 2008 I the bike cost me $600, I got a lock that cost me $95 because I was using it as a commuter and I was in New York. I am of the mind that the cost of your locks should be able 10% of the cost of you bike. This works out well because the locks will last just about forever. The look that I bought 6 years ago is still in use, it was a heavy duty chain lock and I leave it locked in the gargae at my job so I dont have to carry it with me everyday.
I recently bought a new bike and I got the New York fahgettaboudit it lock, it a small ulock that isnt heavy but provides good locking.

I dont know where you live, but your bike looks new enough, especially being chainless, to catch some eyes and not just people who will give you complaints.
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367721175&sr=8-1&keywords=new+york+fahgettaboudit+mini

If you want an inexpensive alternative, you could try putting some different bar ends on your handlebars to give you some different riding positions.

Here's some that mimic the drop-bar style, and would probably give you a good idea if that style would be right for you.

You can get the Chinese Spyware version on amazon for cheaper. I've considered doing the same thing, but I worry about all of the dumbasses who will vandalize it either accidentally or intentionally

> rapando todos os patinetes estacionados

Em local irregular (de acordo com a lei).

Só que a maneira que eles estão recolhendo é bizarra: frequentemente eles pegam o patinete e arremessam para dentro de uma caçamba de caminhão, de qualquer jeito. Porque o patinete só destrava via aplicativo.

Imagine um veículo como este sendo arremessado como se fosse um saco de areia.

No Twitter tem alguns vídeos mostrando essas remoções. Muito diferente das mostradas nos telejornais, diga-se de passagem.

Com isso, o patinete acaba sofrendo avarias severas, ficando quase que inutilizado.

A empresa responsável pelos patinetes estima uma perda de 400 patinetes. Supondo que eles custaram cerca de R$ 1800 talqueis...

I consider a bell pretty much 'standard equipment' on my bikes now due to this. For whatever reason the bell seems to be get better results overall verses yelling out.

Perhaps part of it is just instinctual, the bell sound is very specific to bikes so the individual really doesn't have to think about what was just said.

Just don't be the guy using an Air Zound on the multi-use trail...

Might be easier to buy something.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=140542965

Unless he's got some kind of weird complex about girls and poop just forget about it.

If you need to go to the bathroom, then just go. Don't worry about it. Spray a little air freshener if it makes you feel better.

Reminds me of the time I was at my grandmother's and took a massive shit then sprayed some pine-sol scented air freshener. My grandmother walks in a few minutes later and starts sniffing the air then say's "Smells like someone shit on a pine tree."

If it makes you feel any better. I don't even have a bathroom. I just have this and a bag of pine shavings.

I even had a lady friend come stay for a bit. Whenever she needed to use the bathroom I just left for a few minutes while she did her business.

Not even with this?

Awesome, congrats!

As a bike commuter of almost five years, I'll let you in on a little secret: sometimes my fellow bikers are worse that the drivers.

Case in point, I bought this cool airhorn ([Delta Cycle Airzound Bike Horn](https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC "Amazon.com : Delta Cycle Delta Airzound Bike Horn")) to attach to my bike. I remember being a little eager to use it, like a kid wanting to try out a toy. It took me a few weeks before I actually had an opportunity. Sadly, and ironically, I had to blow the horn on a cyclist who darted across a crosswalk when he had a red and I had a green. I actually had to dodge out of his way. What a jerk. I remember laughing/crying about how I got this air horn to defend myself from motor vehicles, yet the first time I used it was for a cyclist :-(

I can't stress enough how useful the Airzound has been for these types of sotuations. People move when you sound like a boat.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

unpopular opinion to follow:

Personally, I don't understand the G shock for every day wear. For going to the gym or sporting activities, sure - but i'd prefer something less...gaudy? for edw.

For a proper adults watch and a really reasonable price point look to Orient, specifically the bambino or mako to get you started.

I've seen men at nicer events wearing g-shocks and it always strikes me as what happens when you tell a child to 'wear whatever you want', you shouldn't be too surprised when they come out of their room wearing a spider man costume.

/2cents.

If you're into a 'chunkier' design, I would reccomend the Suunto Core It's a bit higher than your price range but it's got a more streamlined look, I have one and it's tremendously useful if you're active / outdoorsy.

Here's a few things I've bought off Amazon that I've been really happy with:

Minus33 Merino Wool Day Hiker Sock

Magnesium Fire Starter

Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw

Sawyer Products Mini Water Filtration System

Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade

Nalgene Translucent Wide Mouth Bottle With Blue Lid

Outdoor Products 3-Pack Ultimate Dry Sack

Rayovac Sportsman 22 Lumen 1AAA Headlight

Adventure Medical Kits Adventure First Aid 2.0

Suunto M-3 D/L Compass

At that point you're probably paying the same or only saving a couple of bucks from a direct Amazon order, so probably not worth it.

https://smile.amazon.com/Cascade-Mountain-Tech-Carbon-Trekking/dp/B00XM0YGW8/

I purchased my electric scooter (first paycheck) at the start of Summer 2018, and before that, was that guy on a kick scooter. The climate for electric scooters on campus went from what I could tell was me and another dude I saw once every month, to now seeing at least 3 every day.

I fear that what was once mild amusement to people now will become hatred when millions are everywhere and half the people scooting around purchased one have no idea what common courtesy is and attempt scootihicular pedestrianslaughter on the sidewalks, souring public opinion. Worrying premonitions aside, I can not say enough about how much I love my scooter to get around. It's the perfect combination of vehicle, where you don't have to worry about storing it like a bike, or if you never gained the magical skills to not die on a longboard/skateboard, a pretty easy to use ride. I use mine everyday and it does a good job. If you can use a longboard/skateboard those are very good options for pretty cheap human propelled transportation that are very popular, although I'll always have a soft spot for the A5 Lux Kick Scooter I used to roll around with. Brakes are neat, yo!

As for which scooter to get, I'm not up with the scooter times, but I use the Segway ES1 I purchased at Sam's Club for $350. Judging by the fact I've never actually seen another one of those out on campus (If you see a dude on one of these, probably wearing flip-flops, feel free to wave hello, say hi, and not hate me, I try to be as courteous as possible to other pedestrians/cyclists!), gonna go out on a limb and say they are no longer for sale at Sam's Club. However what I have seen on campus are the Xiaomi Mi or maybe this go trax thing. Can't speak for those at all, but they sure are popular.

The electric scooter market is pretty cheap, with the prices being low, but with the quality being low as well. There was literally like two options when I got mine, with the one I did get being sold off on clearance, but now with the explosion in this segment, the skies the limit, maybe.

Overall, the utility of an electric scooter is a great value for what they cost, and I'd happily answer any questions you've got. Also, yes I am a bit of a electric scooter nut/loser, if this thesis of a post is anything to go by.

99% sure they’re the same model, which was also available on Amazon for $500 a while back before they sold out

Edit: looks like they’re back on Amazon for $600 now:

Xiaomi Mi Electric Scooter, 18.6 Miles Long-range Battery, Up to 15.5 MPH, Easy Fold-n-Carry Design, Ultra-Lightweight Adult Electric Scooter (US Version with Warranty) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LroYBb3A01TBS

Assuming you want a mechanical watch, here are my suggestions.

Desk Diver (a dive watch that looks a little more fashionable than utilitarian):

• Orient Blue Ray
  
  
• Orient Mako
  
  Utilitarian Divers:
  
  
• Seiko Black Monster or Orange Monster
  
  
• Seiko SKX007
  
  
• Citizen Promaster
  
  These watches will have a lot of the same basic features: water resistant to 200m, screw down crown, time lapse bezel, mineral crystal etc. The Seiko's will arguably have the best lume and they also use their "Hardlex Mineral Cyrstal" which may have an advantage over the crystals of the Orients or Citizen. All of these use workhorse movements. The Citizen uses a Miyota movement that can also be hand wound.
  

http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-BK2-Campanion-Fixed/dp/B001N1DPDE/ref=pd_sbs_sg_37

The BK2 is a better all purpose knife. It can baton wood or aide in meal prep. Also has a kydex sheath which won't hold moisture like a leather sheath will.

Although I think 6+ months is unlikely, but here is what I would do.

• Cook
  
  • Over the fire
    
  • Make a fire over
    
  • Buy one for the house beforehand, currently in the worlds smallest house but want to build in the next couple years
    
• Shower
  
  • Camp Shower
    
  • You can also make something like the camp shower using a 2L bottle or 2.
    
  • Good old boil water and add it to a tub
    
• Wash Cloths
  
  • This is the hardest without products that exist currently.
    
  • Scrubba Backpacking Washing Machine still a lot of work
    
  • Video on how they did it before washing machines great channel to subscribe too btw
    
• go to the toilet
  
  • This is a whole subject on its own. Hard to say just dig a hole because where does that hole go? How do you get your water? Will disposing of waste contaminate your water? Will it contaminate your neighbors? Making a septic tank is hard, but you might have to do it by hand.

Delta Airzound 115db horn

Enjoy the FX! I'm rocking the 7.5 and I am completely in love with cycling. Here's a few words of advice:

Ditch that cable lock. I can walk up to a bike with a cable with a five dollar tool and have it for myself in 10-20 seconds. Get a U-Lock and rope. The correct answer for how many locks or what kind of locks to use is how many you are willing to carry. This will depend on your location as well. U-Locks + ropes typically require an individual to have a hacksaw, grinder, etc. I live in a smaller college town and mostly just have to worry about drunk assholes so that works perfect. In other areas more heavy duty and smaller U-Locks are more necessary. This will probably work fine and is cheap unless you're in Detroit or something.

Fenders. I feel like that should be your next investment unless you bike a lot at night. I bike a ton at night and decided to invest in great lights after almost being hit by both cars and bikes several times. The first time you have somewhere to be and go through a puddle, the fenders pay for themselves. These are what I rock and I go through puddles / lakes which I probably shouldn't. I stay nice and dry while my friends breeze through them and get completely soaked.

Racks and bungies are great for the FX series. Like others mentioned, this is just a fun bike. I use it for recreation, commuting, bar hopping, exercise, you name it! A rack and a bungie net makes it awesome and Ortlieb panniers are an even better addition.

Besides fenders however... the seat and pedals (maybe) are the next things I'd recommend to look at. The pedals look metal in that picture, but if there's plastic, toss them. Well, I guess you can use them. It depends on the rider, but there's a pretty good track record of the FX series stock pedals only lasting roughly 500 miles before they completely break. Obviously this will vary by user. These are my favorite commuter pedals because I can go clipless later or I can commute at the same time without switching out. These are cheaper and better for commuting just because of the pricing.

As for the seat, your ass will never get more comfy than sitting on a brooks.

Enjoy the FX, it's a wonderful machine and I cherish mine. I was biking to work for the first time in a month (been on vacation) and I forgot I had to go to work. I accidentally biked a few extra miles down the bike path before I remembered I was commuting and not going for an enjoyable bike ride. Careful, it becomes an addiction.

And here's a shameless plug for my pride and joy. It still had the old pedals, saddle, fenders and needs an updated snapshot.

zero complaints with this one, and collapses pretty small

https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ

Why would you not just buy the Sawyer Mini for $18.97 on Amazon?

Sawyer Products SP128 Mini Water Filtration System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_qhWfub0018FS9

What do you think of the http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406720934&sr=8-1&keywords=sawyer+mini It has a 0.1 Micron Filter. I believe that still won't remove Viruses in water though. And do you know what are the chances of North American Streams, or Lakes etc containing viruses in the water?

$19.99 with shipping on Woot for 1,000 liters of filtering capacity or $19.06 with shipping on Amazon, which is strange because Woot is owned by Amazon.

Or you can get a Sawyer Mini for $19.97 with shipping for 100,000 gallons (378,541 liters) of filtering capacity, while filtering at 0.1 microns instead of 0.2 microns for the Lifestraw. It comes with a straw so you can use it the same way as the Lifestraw, plus has the greater flexibility of being able to be used with a hydration bladder or set up as a gravity filter systems, and also comes with a small water pouch.

Snowboard clothing is overkill unless you plan on staying through a winter storm. Just remember: cotton kills and wool is your friend. If nothing else get yourself a pack of wool socks and some wool underwear and then wear your normal clothes over those. The coldest I've seen Yosemite get to (in the last ~7 years of visiting every winter) was about 30F in the day and ~0-10F at night (really easy to manage). A good wool hat also helps for staying warm at night.

I'm jealous; I just moved from SLO to Oregon and won't be able to do my normal yearly winter Yosemite trip :( I'll miss wandering around in a kilt and tshirt when it's 30F and making everybody think I'm insane, but I can give some misc advice on Yosemite winter camping:

• Bring snow chains appropriate for your car. Even if the road is clear up into the park it's not guaranteed to be de-iced the entire stretch into the valley, and for most of winter the park rangers will deny you entry if you say you don't have chains even if the road is clear. There's stores not far out of the park that sell them but they're far more expensive than your local car parts store.
  
• Use the bear boxes for all food, deodorant, hair spray, tooth paste, and anything with a scent you could imagine a pet animal trying to consume against all logic because the bears, coyotes, and racoons will try and are much larger and smarter (and I have watched them all try).
  
• Last time I was there sleeping in your vehicle was verboten. I'm not sure on the exact reason why, but I think it's because bears are known to break into (and ruin in the process) cars while looking for food. You're safer outside the car than in it.
  
• Good sleeping bags are great but don't forget to put an insulating layer between yourself and the ground. Air mattresses are okay but suck for temperature control; one of those thin roll-out insulating pads are seemingly worthless but great for staying warm through the night.
  
• For $25 you can get 40 chemical handwarmers -- activate two or three (or four if you're cold) at night and toss them into the bottom of your sleeping bag to stay warm at night. Wear a shirt with chest pockets and put another two there, then get a wool beanie and slip another one between it and your head (if there's a blizzard...)
  
• Don't go to bed wearing wet (including sweat) clothes! It will cool through the night and wisk away your body heat. Before going to bed change into a fresh suit of dry clothing.

Just be aware when you're shopping, if you ask a Canadian for recommendations you're going to get stuff that is much lighter than you will probably want to get. Up to -10C many of us consider this light winter wear weather, but you will probably be wanting full on baselayer, gloves, boots and heavy jacket.

Calgary winters are fairly mild (averaging lows of -10 to -15C), but they come with wild swings due to our proximity to the mountains, you might go to work and it's -20C and when you leave its +10C so be prepared with layers as other have mentioned.

In the middle of Jan/Feb it's going to get real cold, often reaching -30C to -40C for a few days and a couple weeks below -20C. Be prepared for these days, if you have a vehicle make sure to plug it in (all vehicles sold in Canada have a block heater installed) if you take transit make sure to get some hand and feet warmers (like this). Wind chill is no joke it's not usually is listed as a "feels like" when looking at forecasts, if you're outside a lot pay attention to that number.

Also if you have a vehicle and street park at home or work make sure pay attention if you're in a snow route, they will ticket you if you're parked there during/after heavy snow fall.

I do long runs up there and camp nearly every weekend... I just bring a solar shower and put it on my dashboard or hood of my car, hose off afterwards... It's one of these, you can get them at Miller Surplus for 10 bucks or something: http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000014865-5-Gallon-Solar-Shower/dp/B0009PUT20

Edit: forgot to mention, there's also an ice cold spring just down the way from the Mt. Lemmon fire lookout. Take the Mt. Lemmon trail west from summit, stay R/straight at fork for Lookout trail, you'll see a metal building on your right, pipe sticking out of the hillside offtrail to the left -- flows hard year around. Maybe .2 miles total from parking area.

Elevated camping is just a hilarious concept to me. As if one person in a planning committee was like "I want to do everything identical to regular camping, but sleep 2 feet higher", and since they were a generally nice person, everyone else politely nodded their head.

Like I'm legitimately confused as to its merits over an air mattress in a regular tent. Feel like it just dramatically increases the probability of accidentally falling onto the ground during a groggy morning or drunk night.

That being said, I'm confident that whatever camping option you have, you're going to have a BLAST! Firefly is an awesome experience- great people, great music, and great vibes all around. In addition to what other people have suggested, I'd highly recommend a reusable water bottle to bring into the festival, as well as a handkerchief in case it's dry and dusty. Also a cheap camp shower works wonders if you don't want to wait on line for a shower!

Biking in the rain isn't very fun. It's not too bad, but your tires can slip on some surfaces (usually metal). I had to cross some railroad tracks on my route and the tires could easily slip on the metal surfaces.

Also, in the winter, you'll want to wear gloves, otherwise your hands will get pretty cold from the cold air.

Develop a system to make sure you packed your clothes. I've left a few times for work without packing a shirt.

You may want to invest in a bike horn. I have one like this. It helps to alert cars to your presence, but will probably scare pedestrians, so be careful.

Also, you'll probably want to wear sunglasses, otherwise debris can get into your eyes.

I'd invest in a decent quality road bike. Mine was a $1000 Trek, but that's maybe a slight step above entry level. A good quality bike will cost you over $500. Road bikes are so nice. I was able to consistently go around 20 MPH. with bursts up to 25-30. I actually used to take a lane in rush hour traffic when I lived in my downtown area. I could keep up with the stop and go traffic and it was a great workout.

Wear a helmet!

Get lights, especially for winter when it gets dark earlier.

Visibility is key when riding near traffic, get reflective tape for your bike and reflective ankle bands so cars can see you.

Bike defensively. Worse accident I got in was when I was going by an alley and a car came out of the alley and didn't see me. Luckily I saw them so was able to avoid too much damage.

Either learn to do the maintenance yourself or take your bike into a shop to get maintenance every year or so.

Anyway, good luck! I enjoyed biking into work. I need to get back into it, but it takes good self discipline to wake up early enough to bike into work. I was lucky enough to have a locker room and showers at my workplace, and a bike locker. I really have no excuses other than the fact that driving is so much easier.

These are an effective jogger alert system, even for ones that are using headphones.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO

Get one of these and a "privacy poncho" and the entire road system is your outhouse.

I have also heard great things about the $18 stove on Amazon from BRS

Or don't?

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ultralight/comments/58nlkz/what_gear_or_technique_did_you_buy_or_try_only_to/d91tmmf/

TL;DR: with a BRS-3000T, 25-gram, canister-top stove and a light-weight pot for boiling water, alcohol doesn't save you much weight on short trips, and on longer, un-resupplied trips, LPG wins.

See also: https://www.reddit.com/r/Ultralight/comments/5akas5/nifty_but_possibly_dangerous_refill_transfer_fuel/

EDIT - never have to check for "fire bans" with LPG either - the stoves have a shut-off valve and are typically exempt.

I find the flick locks to be easier to use.

I bought these a while ago, and really like them for the price. Andrew Skurka recommends them as his value pick, if that matters to you

I think scooter skill and etiquette will improve with time. You still have a lot of people riding them for the first time to try them out.

Side note, does anyone have one of these and know how to lock them to bike racks? I'm passively interested in one but the inability to lock them seems devastating.

I noticed that too on Amazon. I checked the price history using camelcamelcamel and you can see that they periodically jack the price way up for a short amount of time and then slam it back down. I've noticed some price creep like this before on amz but nothing with such huge changes.

I think if you wait a short while it'll go back down.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370531491&sr=8-1&keywords=drop+bar+ends

I used these while I was trying to put drops on flats. I eventually just ended up putting actual drop bars on, but these work rather well and are very comfortable.

I agree with all of that.

I would just add that bar ends are an economical option for adding more hand placement options to an MTB, without having to swap handlebars/shifters/brake levers.

Most people would opt for a standard bar ends to give you that on-the-hoods/bullhorn hand position. Add a cheap set of foam grips, and install these angled up so that your wrist is straight when riding.

If you want the feel of riding down in the drops, then there are also drop bar ends available. These will require grip tape, and should be installed flat or angled very slightly up.

You were looking for this one.

Also see the $87,639.09 Zenith and this hideous $85,750.00 monstrosity that I would totally buy a knock-off of.

Also, today my coworker showed me his watch collection, which includes a whole bunch of high-end Seikos, his grandfather's real Omega, and his two fake Omegas.

I asked him about the fakes and he was very open about them: "I want something that I can wear to the bar, but that reminds me of what I'm saving up for."

To quote one of my recent comments about silencing stabilizers:

---
---

I've spent tons of time researching and modding stabilizers and here's the method I use to make them as silent as possible:

---

Let's Build: KBD75 + Zealios 65g (YouTube)
[stabilizer modding starts at 12:11]

---

What you'll need:

• Genuine Cherry stabilizers
  
  • This is the most important component of a silent build. Don't waste your time with the cheap Chinese replicas.
    
  • Zeal stabilizers are fairly quiet out of the box but not everyone wants to spend that kind of money
    
    
• Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease
  
  
  • Use this for plastic-on-plastic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer housing inner walls)
    
    
• Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease
  
  • Use this for metal-on-platic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer wire tips and long side of bends)
    
  • Some use this for plastic-on-plastic but I hate how it gums and slows everything down; I use this grease mainly to fill up any gaps between the wire and plastic parts of the stabilizer - the primary source of stabilizer rattle.
    
    
• Fabric/cloth bandages
  
  • This serves two purposes:
    
    • Fills the gap between the stabilizer housing and the PCB to minimize wobble and thus, rattle (not a problem with screw-in stabs)
      
    • Cushions the bottoming out of stabilizer inserts. The inserts extend beyond the stabilizer housings when pushed all the way down and strike the surface of the PCB, leading to a loud "clack" and additional vibrations/movement that might cause the metal bits to rattle.
      
      
  • We use fabric instead of the water-resistant stuff (or tape) so that it absorbs and holds the dielectric grease.
    
    ---
    ---
    
    This is what they should sound like:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMIC1ZQ8Grw

Not sure what your budget is exactly, but I went with this:

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tDCNAbDC2DC6Z

It’s been solid, I’ve had it for over a year and have worked on all our bikes on the rack. It’s light but doesn’t feel flimsy. In the future I’d love to own something more heavy duty like a park tools one, but for now this is a gem.

Note: I’m not in any way affiliated with Bikehand, just a customer who would def vouch for the repair stand!

Something about us Michiganders and Speedmasters.

I had to settle for a Casio Edifice which is about as close as I can get with what I can afford to spend on a watch right now.

I mean I could get a Speedmaster, but that's a significant chunk of scratch for a hobby I'm still fairly green to.

So for shelter, I'd suggest this tarp. I also suggest checking out the forum that the tarp is from (www.bushcraftusa.com) because it's a forum all about bushcraft but has sub forums in ultralight and backpacking. The tarp is https://bushcraftoutfitters.com/coyote-tarp-10x10/ which is priced at $67. The reason I suggest this is because this tarp specifically, there's lots of way's to set it up. Check out this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxtHJm51NPY&t=


So for cooking, it's pretty simple. This video will show you what most bushcrafters use and the links that follow are the two items. I use it myself and in fact have two sets because of how much I enjoy it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00gwQ4z_nQQ&t and the following links for the items. https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=Ozark%20Trail%2018-Ounce%20Stainless%20Steel%20Cup
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Adventure-Camp-Cook-Set/16784406
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-9-5-Round-Frying-Pan/49332895


Hammocks are over rated, sleeping pads are a mess to figure out, get a cot. In fact, get this cot. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Outdoor-Super-Ultralight-Portable-Folding-Aluminium-alloy-Cot-Camping-Tent-Bed/112355265955?hash=item1a28e54da3:g:-PUAAOSwTM5Y365i:rk:2:pf:0


And now you need a knife, saw, and hatchet right? Well let's tackle all three.
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004ZAIXSC?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_sp_web_6501052011
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540606867&sr=8-1&keywords=Bacho+Laplander
https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-X7-Hatchet-Inch-378501-1002/dp/B0002YTO7E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540607032&sr=8-2&keywords=Fiskars+X7+Hatchet+14+Inch%2C+378501-1002
And as a added bonus here's a fire steel.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-2-5-Drilled-Ferrocerium-Ferro-Rod-Steel-Flint-Fire-Starter-w-Lanyard-Hole/131485475489?hash=item1e9d2522a1:rk:4:pf:0


And finally to end it all, we have a sleeping bag. This one is well known in the world. Kelty Cosmic 20 Degree. It's a dry down bag which means it's made of down that can handle some moisture but still keep you warm. It's rated for 20 degree's. I'll post the same bag as well but is rated for 0 degrees'. It'll be more expensive but it'll let you stay warm during the winter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-20-Sleeping-Bag-20-Degree-Down/253894865275?epid=1152349824&hash=item3b1d50317b:m:mFpUvLXnvtZZETXdugDHwvw:rk:2:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-0-Sleeping-Bag-0-Degree-Down/253375355468?epid=28012067594&hash=item3afe591a4c:m:mCrEnOYV72CJ257e08pGR4Q:rk:2:pf:0


Check the sizes of the sleeping bag before you buy.


Also a pack, this one works as two in one. Really nice for a 60L https://outdoorvitals.com/products/rhyolite-60l-lightweight-internal-frame-backpack1
________________________________________

If you do plan on doing any winter camping, I'd edit a few things. One of them is I'd get the 0 Degree sleeping bag posted. Instead of the tarp I'd get this pup tent. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USGI-Military-Issue-2-Man-Canvas-PUP-TENT-w-Poles-Stakes-Complete-VGC/392111853275?hash=item5b4bb00edb:g:JEQAAOSw~jJarA5E:rk:1:pf:0 Which comes with poles and stakes. I normally toss the poles and get some branches outside. I get four branches and make a bipod that I tie off on either end. That gives me more room inside the tent and less weight I have to carry on my person.


I'd still get the cot but I'd also include Thermarest Z-Lite sleeping pad to put on top of it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Therm-a-Rest-Z-Lite-Sol-Ultralight-Foam-Backpacking-Mattress/132801349129?epid=1900010560&hash=item1eeb93c609:rk:1:pf:0 as well as one of those super heavy duty emergency blankets. It's a reflective blanket but it's also the same thickness as some of those heat reflectors you use for a car windshield. Not those flimsy things you see "survivalists" use. Those placed on the cot, with that zero degree bag, and that shelter works amazingly. Just don't throw a heavy blanket on the sleeping bag and don't wear a lot of clothes in it either. That'll make everything for naught.
______________________________________
So with everything listed, the pack, cooking stuff, tools, cot, sleeping bag, and either the canvas shelter or tap, you'd be looking at around $560 assuming you got the 0 Degree Sleeping Bag instead of the 20 Degree. Which you really should. A 0 Degree is much better in my case.


Also if you do get a down sleeping bag, NEVER STORE IT IN THE COMPRESSED STATE!!! Always store it someplace with it out of it's bag. If you keep it compressed 24/7 until you use it, you'll destroy the down.

It depends entirely on what you expect to do with the knife.

Food prep is a common task, which is best done with a small, slender fixed blade knife (folding knives are harder to keep clean - very important with food prep! - and slender blades cut food better than thick blades do). If the food prep knife is carried with the cooking gear, it does not require a belt sheath. A $9 victorinox paring knife is light and strong and would work fine for all but the largest jobs.

A saw or hatchet is far superior to a knife for preparing firewood, if that's going to be necessary.

General woodworking tasks - such as forming tent stakes, or notching wood to build a shelter or something like that - is best done with a thicker, stronger knife. A $20 stainless mora is very hard to beat for these sorts of tasks. If the hatchet/saw are lost, they can help with firewood prep, too.

See /r/Bushcraft for lots of helpful advice and knowledge.

So you're going to buy something regardless, isn't spending an extra $50 once, worth the headache of replacing a bike, trying to deal with insurance etc...

I literally just bought this one for $40.

I'd suggest using a good U Lock like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469132985&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock

Lock the frame/front wheel to the bike rack and loop the cable around your back tire. This should be enough deterrence to safely leave your bike outside.

That said, if the professional thieves want your bike, there's no lock you can get to stop them. I wouldn't lock up a $2000 road bike outside, but your bike should be fine I'd imagine.

A few bits of advice:

1. Don't lock it outside overnight. Keep it in your apartment.
   
2. Buy used. I don't know where the hell you can find a bike of any quality for $15, but you can get some for less than $100. Look on Craigslist, beware scammers, and please don't buy a bike from a bike thief.
   
3. Get a decent U-lock. This one is pretty good. Use the included cable to loop around your front wheel. The cable is a bit short, but it's long enough to get the wheel. Unfortunately it is NOT long enough to get both the wheel and seatpost, at least not on my bike. If you're worried about that, get a 7' cable instead. All locks are breakable, of course, but a decent U-lock will thwart casual thieves and encourage the pros to move on to the next bike that's less secured.
   
4. Don't ride drunk. Combined with #1, that means don't ride it anywhere if you plan on drinking.
   
   I've been riding an old mountain bike I got for $70 off Craigslist for a few years. It looks its age but it rides like a champ. Yes, it's silly that my locks cost nearly as much as my bike, but I don't care. I'm a little paranoid.

I assume you and /u/fire_0 mean this one? Because it's $45 right now, and Camelcamelcamel tells me it's only been $40.47 at its lowest.

There's another one that was $30 but it's a twist-lock model.

This is on the .com version, the Canadian version is just....ridiculous.

Polycro Goundsheet


Sawyer Squeeze Mini


Cascade Mountain Aluminum Trekking Poles

I've used pocket rockets and alcohol stoves for a good while. Lately I've been using the BSR Ulralight stove http://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U. Really cheap and light if you go the canister stove route.
Any stove you use will need to kept steady and level. As long as the canister isn't rocking you shouldn't have an issue.

I rarely have a campfire while backcountry backpacking. (I also live in the PNW)
Like you said - there are often full-time or seasonal restrictions on fires. Other times it just isn't worth the effort to start one.

I do LOVE fires when car camping. Especially in official campsites where there is wood for sale and a metal fire pit.

----
I use a canister stove for cooking when backpacking. It's quick and easy. They are pretty cheap and light too.

My setup:

• https://www.msrgear.com/pocketrocket-2
  
• https://snowpeak.com/collections/cookware/products/trek-700-titanium
  
• https://www.optimusstoves.com/us/us/18-8016166-optimus-titanium-long-spoon
  
  Fuel canisters are $5 each and last multiple trips.
  
  ----
  Here is another setup for cheaper:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/BRS-Outdoor-Camping-Portable-Ultralight/dp/B00NNMF70U
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Camping-Equipment-Wuudi-Outdoor-Cookware/dp/B010X507KY
  
• https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Outdoors-Soup-Spoons-2pk/dp/B00BQL5R5U

How to survive winter in NYC:

http://www.burlingtoncoatfactory.com/

http://www.amazon.com/HeatMax-Hot-Hands-Handwarmer-Pairs/dp/B0007ZF4OA

Duluth is an absolute mecca for outdoor winter sports. Gear up properly and you'll love your life in the 8 months of the Northland's winter!

If you're getting outside a lot in Eau Claire, you'll do fine in Duluth. If you plan on spending significantly more time outdoors in Duluth, then that's another story. Depending on where you live in town, you'll have different levels of need for snow tires; either way I'd strongly recommend them. PM me - I'm selling a set of snow tires in great condition over on the Online Rummage Sale for Duluth/Superior facebook group.

• Thermal regulation is the name of the game. Not enough protection and you're cold. Once you're cold, you're done. Too many layers and you start to sweat. If you can't wick the sweat away or stop overheating, you're done
  
  
• Cotton kills. You need 100% wool/poly/synthetic layers. Cotton absorbs moisture from your sweat, then freezes or just becomes a frigid sopping sponge against your skin
  
  
• Layer selection is important. Something like a North Face Thermoball is great as a mid-layer under a parka for those insanely cold days. I have a SmartWool Marino wool base layer that was expensive but it was essential for keeping me warm and dry. Otherwise, synthetic long sleeve Under Armor kinds of shirts are perfect base layers.
  
  
• Jeans are great at breaking wind and worked pretty well for me as a mid-layer. I usually just used synthetic long-johns to take care of wicking water from my skin. Roll both legs of the jeans up your shin to make room for boots and to keep the bottoms away from the snow or they will just get sopping wet. It's added warmth for your shins too. I'd finish off with a pair of snow pants that can go on and off easily
  
  
• I used solid boots that were comfortable and insulated, with 1-2 pairs of various smartwool/puffy wool socks. Don't over-do it with socks. If your boot is too tight, it'll cut circulation to your toes and then you'll be cold. That's a delicate balance between "it's literally too damn cold out" and "I don't have circulation and I feel like it's too damn cold out."
  
  
• A solid parka that goes below your butt is ideal. I got my North Face parka for around $300 and it was an excellent investment
  
  
• Consider a shell that can break the wind. If you're hiking in Lester/Chester/Munger/etc. it won't be too windy; and if you're geared up properly those super cold temps are really a cake walk
  
  
• Ice chains were important for my wife and myself. ICEtrekkers' Diamond Grip were my favorite. They really bite into glare ice where as coiled wire like basic Yak Trax were more slippery
  
  
• I have a stack of the cheapest bandannas I could find in every color and pattern available. They're usually on sale for a buck each. The problem is that they're cotton, so my breath would condense on them quickly and they would freeze solid within 10-15 minutes, but the point is to keep the wind off of your mouth and cheeks. Even when frozen, they worked very well, and at 32° it was easily 30-50° warmer than the ambient air temps! I usually had 2-3 on me at all times for face protection and to wipe my nose/forehead (in case I started sweating) and I was very happy with them considering how cheap they were. Wash them once or twice before you use them to soften them up. I'd be interested in seeing other options for face covering.
  
  
• Nothing beats a nice long wool knit scarf. Wrap it straight around your face and lay the tails flat against your chest or back for another insulating layer, or tie it in various ways for style and function around town
  
  
• Sunglasses are a must to keep sleet and ice out of my eyes. Consider a set of very lightly tinted shades for evening/dark walking. There was nothing worse than hiking at night when it was sleeting. I've been told snowboarding goggles were lame, but ya know, Lake Superior is fierce before it freezes over. Ha. I would snowbaord all the time with amber tinted wrap-around shades that were snug to my head, and I'd hike with light Wayfarer-style frames
  
  
• Finally, gloves are a real mystery to me. I'm not down with leather/animal skin, but it may be the only option to cut wind, and insulate the most efficiently. I usually used a thin woven wool base layer to wick sweat, a medium sized glove liner that usually comes with a decent set of gloves, and the thickest, heartiest, most beefy damn glove you can find. Pro tip: Make sure ALL gloves work with smartphones (capacitive touch). Never take a glove off to do something because you will never regain that heat without going inside
  
  
• Just get a case of hand warmers. They're good in your gloves; next to your Achilles tendon in your boots; and against your camera or smartphone to keep those batteries running longer
  
  FIY: I spent 3 years in Duluth as a Floridian with no experience with real winter. Gear up properly and you'll be outside all winter long! It's expensive, but it's TOTALLY worth the investment. Otherwise you'll be cold and miserable; and that is one hella long-ass winter.

[Coleman 5-Gallon Solar Shower] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OGwBzbR7ZV7AV) is currently on sale for $9.97

I just got one of these for my birthday

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371169926&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+air+horn

I am excited as fuck to use it.

air zound

I agree. The air horns are so loud (maybe louder than a puny car horn?), and a LOT less weight. http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

F getting a silly little bell. You want people to HEAR YOU:

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1302051755&sr=8-1&tag=thelexfiles05-20

Get one of these!

That's an airzound. (Or a knockoff... Does anyone make a knockoff?) I have one but the can is starting to rust out, and I'm genuinely unsure if I'm going to replace it or not. (Don't like the idea of a rusty pressure vessel!)

Here's the thing... when you need one, it's great to have. But the problem I have is that the actual trigger mechanism is so fucking huge that there's nowhere to place it on my bike that's within easy reach. As a result it's wayyy off-line for my thumbs so that I have to deliberately take my hand off my bars, search for the mech, and then push it. The upshot is that I'm only able to do that when I have a few seconds warning that I'm going to need to use it (this video would be a good example); it's definitely not something that you can place to reflexively hit in an emergency.

I guess if you had a cruiser with a coaster brake or a fixie that wouldn't be a problem. But I have a gear shifters and brake levers on both sides; there's absolutely no place to fit this giant butt fucking monstrosity on my bars within easy reach.

Not sure if this would scare them or make them worse, but you could try an airhorn or the airzound - http://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC . Its pretty loud and it may work with the other dogs of the road. ;)

http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO

You can still do GA and have flushable toilets, but it depends where you camp. There’s a “Jon condo” between the amp and meadow stages at the heart of the venue, for when you’re enjoying the shows. If you (arrive early enough to) camp near the bath house by Spirit Lake or the Grand Hall you can have access to flushing toilets, but there will be lines at peak times.

I fest and camp with my 8 year old daughter and we have one of these for just in case. Dudes piss innawoods but that’s not always possible for womenfolk, so we travel with one of these. #1 only.

Use a garbage bag before sitting down. Then take bag to dumpster.


Get a real seat. Much easier.


https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO

I've got Kryptonite 997986 Black 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396797497&sr=8-1&keywords=new+york+lock+kryptonite ( I bought it for $72 )

Tougher steel, thicker, stubby, and locks on both sides of the U. Because it locks on both sides the thief would need to cut the lock twice.
The lock still can be cut with a battery powered angle grinder, but it will take longer.

All u-locks are not equal. Cheaper u-locks can be cut with bolt cutters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYUf4h0Lv_8

Origin 8 makes drop bar ends, kinda like traditional MTB bar ends.

I really can't stand reading your post. You sound like a pretentious/pompous ass.

This part especially makes me want to punch you in the throat:

> Outside of perhaps the Movado, non fit my idea of a watch a young professional should be wearing with his suit. Thus, I am in the market for my first $1,000 watch.

You should be more worried about deciding whether or not to get a masters degree rather than trying to determine which watch would impress your boss the most. Try to make him think you're not a trust fund baby and that hard work is more important than your watch style.

But if you really wanted to impress him, maybe you should just ask your parents to back your purchase of this watch and in exchange you can pay for your BMW's oil change this time around.

THIS comes in a close second for me.

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M545-Downhill-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B000XNXUUG

I wouldn't recommend those for riding any distance in normal shoes as the clip mechanism is by necessity proud of the platform.

My brother used to have M545s on his hybrid but got rid of them for that reason he's much happier with the M324 pedals he switched to instead. Getting the wrong side some of the time when you set off is preferable to having no right side. The new [A530 looks even better](http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397424911&sr=1-2&keywords=shimano+hybrid+pedals
) with a really nice big platform on the clip free side.

Personally I'd go for Time Allroad Grippers because I like the float atac pedals give you.

Cutting things can be done in probably an infinite number of ways, so it's really about having the right tool for the job. You could thicken the blade, sure, but that makes cutting with the knife harder. This is why kitchen knives are thin in the first place. Buy a Becker BKII (a ~$100 knife) or some other glorified crowbar and you won't have this problem, you'll have others.

If you like your bike, bring it inside. Locking your bike up outside is pretty much asking for it to get stolen.

I lent a friend a tri bike, told him very specifically to keep it inside. what does he do? locks it up out side and it gets stolen. That was $1000 down the drain.

Also, learn how to lock a bike properly and get a decent lock.

Origin 8 makes clip-on drop bar ends that might suit your needs without having to mess with your shifters or brakes.- and they're only $15.

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:


Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.


Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.


For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!


This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

Casio and Timex both have decent digital watches in that range. For an analog, Vostoks are great looking if you don't mind that they can gain/lose alot of time in a day otherwise Timex and Seiko has some good basic stuff that you could put a metal or rubber band on if it doesn't come with it already. Outside of that if all you can spend is $100 most of what you'll find either gonna find are cool looking but flimsy pieces or decently made but basic watches. If you can up your budget even to $150 your options from Orient, Bulova, and Citizen open up a little bit.

Mid Pilot Watch

Or the Orient Mako in Black or Blue. If you choose either of these, I think it would be worth buying a leather watch strap. Here's a decent option (its $40 once you sign in)

Also try asking /r/Watches

Edit: Here's a good thread on /r/watches about watches around your budget.

It's actually on sale on Amazon right now.

It's supposed to be a good entry-level mechanical watch from a company that manufactures all their parts in-house. It's also a bit of a Submariner look-alike, but for a first watch, it's nice and affordable. Check out the reviews.

I just love the awesome product image

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Shimano A530 Pedals. They're dual-purpose pedals meant for road bikes, with SPD pedals on one side, and a platform on the other. The catch is, obviously, that they're not dual side, so you may have to flip the pedal over to use the correct side of the pedal.

I just started going clipless, with these pedals as my first clipless pedals, and I have nothing but good things to say about them. The only catch is that I've been only cycling clipless for a week, so I have limited to experience to base my review on.

Ive been using these to great success: Shimano A530 Yet another half and half solution.

> She doesn't even use clipless pedals.

She does, based on pictures of her bike. She runs double-sided: flats on one side, Shimano SPD on the other. I run the same on my bike, but that's because it's not a dedicated racing bike.

now If you actually want a functional knife that will cut off branches without breaking, get a bk2

Ka-Bar Becker BK2 short of the mythical 'valyrian steel', this is the knife you would pick up when you see the Night King proceeding. Failed torture test.

Morakniv Companion HD Think Sweden without the girl with the dragon tattoo but a dragon waiting to shave you on a budget. Bang for the buck, come razor sharp out of the box.

No, these aren't EDC, even though you could carry them around.

Nimm eine erweiterte Erste Hilfe Ausrüstung mit und sorg' dafür, daß deine Reisebegleiter davon wissen und im Notfall dafür sorgen, daß die verwendet wird. Diese Seite hat eine gute Liste von dem, was man einpacken sollte. Besonders die Einmal-Spritzen, Kanülen und Disinfektionsmittel sind notwendig. Bei der Abreise kannst du alles nicht verwendete an jemanden Spenden, der dort wohnt.

Medikamente gegen Durchfall und Verstopfung kann ich auch empfehlen. Wasserfilter wie diesen oder diesen, und zusätzlich noch Wasserreinigungstabletten, sollten auch nicht fehlen.

DR Kongo hat die zweit-höchste Malaria Infektionsrate der Welt, also sollte Malariaprofylaxe und Insektenabwehr hoch in deiner Prioritätsliste sein. Kleidung sollte wenn's geht leicht sein aber die Arme und Beine bedecken. Das hilft sowohl beim Sonnenschutz als auch gegen Insekten. Es gibt mit Permithrin imprägnierte Kleidung die sehr empfohlen ist. Ansonsten gutes Insektenabwehrspray mitnehmen und ausgiebig verwenden.

You can buy a Sawyer Mini SP128 for not much more and get .1 micron filtration. Clean sip doesn't even list its filter specs on its website, most likely because it doesn't compare to more reputable manufacturers. Just because it's "the world's smallest", doesn't necessarily make it a smart purchase.

Do not get a Lifestraw! Get a Sawyer mini filter instead. They're back-flushable (you can unclog them if they get clogged) and they're guaranteed for more gallons of water than a Lifestraw. The mini filter will also screw on to a lot of plastic drink bottles, like the 12-20oz bottles you can get from vending machines.

As a back up, you can buy one of these pretty cheap:

Sawyer Products SP128 Mini Water Filtration System, Single, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8tgBDbGGF66B7

Or just grab a couple sawyer filters for $20 a pop. Still good to have some backup bottled water I suppose and fill up the tub, but with a sawyer I can literally just go drink out of a puddle if I need to.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536624885&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sawyer+mini&psc=1

| Lifestraw | Sawyer Mini
---|---|----
Membrane | 0.2 microns | 0.1 microns (2x better)
Capacity | 264 gallons | 100,000 gallons (378.8x better)
Bacteria | 6 LOG | 7 LOG (10x better)
Bacteria% | 99.9999% | 99.99999% (10x better)
Protozoa | 3 LOG | 6 LOG (1000x better)
Protozoa% | 99.9% | 99.9999% (1000x better)
Price | $19.89 | $19.41 or 4 for $67.51 ($16.88 each)

The mini is also smaller and comes with a 32 oz squeezable water pouch, 7" tube, syringe for cleaning (if it clogs)

>Attaches to included drinking pouch, standard disposable bottles (28 mm thread), hydration packs, or use the straw to drink directly from your water source

http://sawyer.com/products/sawyer-mini-filter/

I haven't hiked the JMT so I can't comment on your clothing system but here are some general thoughts:

Ditch the headlamp for a sub 1oz USB rechargeable flashlight $30

Ditch the Leatherman for a Victorinox Swiss Army Classic $15

Ditch the paper maps and use Guthook's since you already have it. $Free

Ditch the Sea to Summit X-Cup and I wouldn't bother with the hot lips either $Free

Replace the trash compactor bag with a Fumigation bag $2.49

Ditch the compass $Free

Replace the stove with the BRS Stove $15

All this should save you about ~11 ounces for ~$63.

If you are worried about fitting in the superior 35 I would take a look at the MLD Prophet $195. This should be plenty of room and will save you an additional 18+ ounces.

This is an option if you want to shave some weight replacing the pocket rocket.

I've spent over 2 months with one had no complaints, and plan to take it on my thru starting next week (Ahh!). Just have to be more careful when you're cooking and watch out for winds/make a good windscreen for it. The biggest downside to them is you can't use them in a tent vestibule in the rain.

If you just want a light/cheap stove aren't set on alcohol, there's the BRS 3000, sub 1oz canister stove http://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U

This really depends on your gear. The biggest weight savers are firstly bringing less (such as getting rid of extra clothes, knives, tablets etc) but then getting a lighter tent, sleeping bag, and pack. If you're good on those or can't lose weight there, next up could definitely be the cookset. A cheap light titanium pot and a light stove can make a big difference. Far down the list is tent stakes, imho. If you have cheap heavy stakes, sure swap them out. But there are bigger fish to fry if you're a novice.

Casio Duro

Citizen Eco Drive BM8180-03E

Timex Fairfield

Casio Edifice

Orient Bambino

Casio G Shock atomic solar

I keep this bag in my truck in case I need to get home on foot and for day hikes. It's an REI Stoke 9, jam packed with the following (left to right):

 

GSI Outdoors Glacier Stainless Bottle Cup/Pot

Etekcity Ultralight Portable Outdoor Backpacking Camping Stove

Food - Cliff Bars and GU

Gorilla Tape To-Go

Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife

SecureLine 100-Feet 550 Nylon Paracord

Petzl Pro Am'D Screw-Lock Carabiner

LifeStraw Personal Water Filter

Coast 20266 HL46 Dual-Color LED Headlamp

Extra AAA batteries

Coast HP2 Universal Focusing 85 Lumen Penlight

Waterproof Windproof Matches

Nite Ize Gear Tie Reusable Rubber Twist Tie, 6-Inch, Blue, 2-pack

Small Flask

Headphones

Mophie Powerstation and cord

PackTowl Personal Towel

Nylon Tarp with Bungee Ties - think this came with my REI 2 person tent - awesome instashelter

Extra Underwear

SmartWool socks

Wool beanie

Vinyl poncho

Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight & Watertight .5 First Aid Kit

Also in the FAK pouch: Bic Lighter, Rubber gloves, Emergency Blanket

Coast BX310 Lock Back Folding Knife 2.63-Inch Blade

Coast LED145 LED Micro Pliers

REI Stoke 9 Pack

 

*Full disclosure, my wife used to work for Coast.

Edit 1: hella formatting errors

No pictures being as I am at work but:

• Morakniv
  
• Hori-Hori for digging roots
  
• Bonsai Pruning Scissors
  
• PU Coated gloves (for picking nettles and such)

Basically what everyone else said, go to class. Yeah I get sometimes you're tired but really you'll do way better if you go. 9 times out of 10 you are not that person who can only show up for tests and get an A (or even a B). If you hate waking up in the morning either a: go to bed on time and/or b: avoid taking morning classes.

A bike is a good investment but you really don't need an expensive one (in fact I'd recommend against getting an expensive one, bike thefts are really high around the beginning of the school year). And if you do get a bike, and I can't stress this enough, get a U lock. They're super hard to cut and make a lot of noise in the process so most bike thieves won't bother with them but make sure to loop it through the front tire and frame. Worst case scenario, they'll steal your back tire but its better than your whole bike.

Someone mentioned that you should avoid apartments and go for housing. Honestly apartments are fine as long as they're not student living apartments. Avoid student living like the plague. They seem tempting at first, furniture and utilities included plus separate leases, but you're generally stuck with shitty cable/internet and the furniture is basically low end IKEA stuff. Yeah it'll be a bit more expensive getting furniture at first but you can find decent stuff for cheap on craigslist. And you'll save a lot more if you have people paying for single rent then individual leases.

I'd assume many of you will be looking for jobs. If you're trying to support yourself on a single fast food job you're going to have a bad time. They generally give you basic minimum wage and don't give you many hours to begin with. When I was working at TC I was making $70 per week max. My roommate who works at JJ makes about the same. Really the only way to get decent money doing fast food is delivery. Go for retail/grocery store jobs. They suck too but you'll get decent hours at least.

And last try to avoid spending too much time in your dorm/apartment/house/etc. It's okay to be introverted (but as cliche as this sounds) meeting new people is part of the college experience. If you live in a dorm, try hanging out in the lounge. If you're in the other living spaces, eat at the dorm cafeterias (terrible food but you'll meet people). And joining clubs is not a bad idea. There's generally something for everyone.

Depending on your location and school, having a gun in your dorm may not be illegal, but merely against the university rules.

If you are going to leave the firearm in your car, I suggest you disassemble it and take the complete upper (slide, barrel and recoil spring assembly) with you. Those components are not considered a firearm, and it leaves the receiver in your vehicle much less valuable a target for theft.

As for securing it in your vehicle, cheapest and most effective option is running a quality U-lock through the mag well and attaching it to a car seat frame (leave it underneath the seat).

This is a good U-lock:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417384536&sr=8-2&keywords=u+lock

I biked through Wichita Falls this summer on a cross country trip! Biking from Wichita Falls to Lawton, OK was one of my favorite days of the entire trip. Might not be the prettiest city, but some of the countryside north of there is great. (Also you guys have the Hotter Than Hell 100!)

For accessories you definitely want to get a hefty U-lock (this is a good one) and learn how to lock it up correctly. If you are going to be biking at night, get a front and rear light. If you are sticking to roads with street lights you need a "be seen" front light, if you are going to be biking in the real dark you'll need a higher powered "seeing" front light.

Here are the must-haves for anyone:

1. A helmet that fits
   
   
2. A portable pump like this Lezyne pump in case you get a flat
   
   
3. Backup tire tubes / patch kit / tire levers for the same reason as above
   
   
4. A good bike lock - I like this Kryptonie Series 2 kit
   
   Optional but nice to have:
   
   
5. Water bottle cage & water bottle
   
   
6. Bike shorts or bib
   
   Depending on riding conditions:
   
   
7. Bike lights/reflectors
   
   
8. Cold weather riding gear (pants/etc)
   
   
9. For commuters, panniers/etc
   
   
10. Or a small backpack

I did bike "maintenance" for years using a clamp nailed to my back porch railing. I say maintenance because it was mostly cursing, bruising myself trying to leverage my bike, drinking beer and spending far too long on the simplest tasks.

I got this stand and it is solid as a rock. Has made any project from simple adjustments to overhauls so much easier. Now it is happy tinkering and drinking beer.

Mine consists of moving the kitchen island cart and plopping down there. Hah!

Finally getting a collapsible repair stand.

Gotcha. True, I can see that price with the unit being marketed towards pro teams' mechanics.

This is the stand I use, and it's been great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was reluctant to try trekking poles because I thought I didn't need them and I had been hiking for years. To try out poles I snagged some Cascade Mountain Tech and I now really like them. Life savers for elevation and spiderwebs, haha.

For a cheap, but decent pair to try you could grab [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-Mountain-Tech-Trekking-Climbing/dp/B01055BZDA/ref=pd_sbs_468_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01055BZDA&pd_rd_r=AHB8XKJMJ4XVHCWDZ7TE&pd_rd_w=QLBlN&pd_rd_wg=UGPPr&psc=1&refRID=AHB8XKJMJ4XVHCWDZ7TE) ($20) and see if you like them. Cascade Mountaion Tech are generally considered the best cheap trekking poles, and you can upgrade if you do? I went middle of the road on those up above, and they're good enough to not upgrade, but saving 5-7 oz on mine with better poles would have been nice weight savings on something you pick up and put down constantly (way more than 5-7 oz in your pack). SO, my thought is, if you're not sure. By super cheap, and if you like trekking poles, buy nice and light YMMV.

I had the HV UL2 and ended up returning it. It was pretty darn nice, but I wanted something that was lighter, felt a bit more durable, and more flexible in terms of options for pitching so I grabbed the [Tarptent Saddle] (https://www.tarptent.com/saddle2.html). When I'm using the inner, on the saddle I feel ZERO need for a footprint, but I did with the Copper Spur, though you could always just repair... I also like that if there are no bugs I can pitch just the Saddle Outer Tarp with a ground sheet and total weight would be about 20 Oz. Either tent are pretty good options though.

EDIT: Added context.

I got the highly recommended Cascade Mountain Tech poles from Amazon here

Never heard of the light, wouldn't trust it or the battery that comes with it. May not have low voltage protection.

Honestly, I fell in love with the Nitecore NU25 Plenty bright, lasts a long time, has the high CRI option and is very small so it doesn't hit things when you are sticking your head back behind a strut assembly.

Replying to my own comment with some purchasing recommendations:


2. Next level folding chair. The locking feature is sick, most comfortable camp chair I've owned.

My goto folding table. I've got a bigger 8 foot one if I'm camping with a big group but this small one is perfect for 1-4 people.

3. Highly recommend this charger. Will charge a typical iPhone like 5 times and has QC 3.0 built in (quick charge, which is a nice feature at a festival). Currently on sale for $40 if you clip the coupon, I've seen it as low as $30, they'll probably go on sale for black Friday and Christmas too.

5. Bring a box of these babies and if it gets cold, you've suddenly made like 40 friends.

6. Something like this is a good choice for makeup. In case you have to go back to camp and freshen up, the light is a nice touch.

They're usually hot. Sometimes, the hot water runs out and they are... er... mountain fresh. Quite cold, but it's exhilarating. There are also times when the showers are shut down because the water table is low.


If you're one of those, "I must shower every day" people (I certainly am!) then you should invest in a solar shower. These bad boys are super cheap, hold about 10L of water and can... kind of substitute for a shower. You'll need a tree or something tall too strap it to.

>How much did you save up for this trip?

About 15k. Can theoretically go 18 months or longer on that.

>Is it safe?

I mostly hang out with friends who live rurally and camp in the woods, so yeah. Every now and again I have to park somewhere in a major city where I'm not 100% comfortable leaving all my shit, but I've only had one confrontation where I was in personal danger, and it was because I got "too close" to a homeless guy stacking things in a trash can in Portland.

>Where do you shower?

I usually get 2-3 showers a week, in between my solar shower, hot springs, friend's houses or (last resort) truck stops.

I recently was asking myself this same question, and consensus seemed to be the Air Zound is the loudest horn.

Delta Airzound Bike Horn , colors may vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l5xYxbDSGJVRP

But I don't like the idea of needing an air reservoir for my horn. I have been using this for a while:

Hornit dB140 Cycle Horn with Remote Trigger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TDEV20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l7xYxb01YQYW2

It's very loud but ruined by the sound it makes: it's a chirping noise and people look up in the trees on shared paths instead of looking back or moving over. I ordered and just yesterday received this:

ORP SmartHorn and Bike Light - BLUE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3NK1O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_K8xYxbH94B542

A light/horn combo, with two different sounds. It's loud, and if you get it off the Orp website they include the remote trigger for free. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet but my initial impression is very good.

I got this https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2IDGL70Q0N3KJ&keywords=loud+bike+horn&qid=1565366365&s=gateway&sprefix=loud+bike%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-3

It's kinda obnoxiously loud. But if you don't lay on it, it's not too bad.

this horn will at least get their attention for a moment.

Get yourself an Azound bike horn: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

That and a few loud "Coming through on the bike lane"!, usually clears it out.

I'd recommend a bike airhorn. Might seem absurd, but it's highly effective at:

• Getting drivers to put down their cell long enough to proceed through the green light.
  
• Clearing glassy-eyed, drooling homeless out of the bike lane (bells are often insufficient to overcome the drug stupor).
  
• Setting it off in the I-90 bike tunnel for your amusement (the echo is awesome!).
  
  https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Rechargeable (bike pump) Air Horn on Amazon.com for $24

It's something I've had on my bicycle touring bookmarks for a while, debating the purchase.

The AirZound was designed for you

My bad it was 3 hours I looked up the arrival about it. These are the buckets. They were filled with emergency packets of water and something else like a emergency blanket and we conveniently had gotten them like 2 months before it happened.

http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO people buy this prodcut for "SHTF". It's the perfect shit bucket.

They make nice seats for buckets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIAPXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yK3NDbRGWBFZD

I like your organization on those shelves! I need to do something similar.

What's your sanitation plan? I see Lots of people with > 72hrs of food / water but no way to handle 72 hrs of human waste.

Can I recommend you throw a cheap 12-pack of toilet paper and some disinfecting wipes in there? maybe store a portable toilet & supplies or ensure you have a shovel & knowledge to dig a latrine ?

Here are some deals I've seen and when they come up or shut down. (All times are Pacific)


USB Rechargable Bike Tail Light on sale at 3:45

Foam Rollers go on sale at 4

Kryptonite 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock, Black Goes on sale at 3

Revolights bicycle lighting system Midnight

Womens Pearl Izumi Shorts

Pearl Izumi Jerseys 4:00

Different pearl izumi bibs

Pearl Izumi shorts 5:45

Pearl Izumi bibs as shown below 4:45

Canari womens shorts

Brooks saddles bicycle bar tap 2:45

Yakima DoubleDown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack 4:45

Very compact sleeping bag 4:30

Compact first aid kit 3:00

Kryptonite Evolution Mini-5 Bicycle Ulock 3:35

headlamp 5:30

Polar Heart Rate Monitor 3:30

LED Strobe Lights 2:30

Youphoria Sport Towel ends at 3:15ish



Sram Bar Tape ends at 2:50
Kryptonite NY Standard on sale 6:50

Buy some hot hands they work miracles. I remember someone last year gave me one for my wife and I definitely made the cold bearable and they're pretty cheap for big pack maybe you can pass them out like I will be doing!!
HotHands Hand Warmers 40 Pair Value Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007ZF4OA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vq2hAb1GVX2GY

http://www.amazon.com/HeatMax-Hot-Hands-Handwarmer-Pairs/dp/B0007ZF4OA/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1381453270&sr=1-1

just tape one to each finger and experience the glory.

One of my best purchases ever. Limitless showers

Coleman 5-Gallon Solar Shower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jFJlxb3FDCW8T

Clothes: 5 gallon buckets and a laundry plunger wand.

Or, if you are going to be driving for a while, this will work well if your shocks aren't the best and the road is bumpy... 5 gallon bucket, add clothes/water/soap/spiky drier ball thingies. Put a lid on the bucket and tighten it, put it in the back. Drive.

When you are done driving, rinse, spot check, wring, and then hang dry.

I have a piece of rope going across the van that I used when doing laundry.

Or you can use a laundry mat but that kind of kills the adventure.

Showering and bathing.

Highly love the solar shower bag by Coleman. You might want to get a pop up shower stand but you can totally bath in your vehicle. A tarp on the floor is helpful.

I took a lot of bucket baths too. Fill a small bucket with soapy water (not tons of soap) and wash up. Then rinse in fresh water. I think that bucket was a gallon bucket.

Wipes are helpful also. When we traveled a lot, some days were crotch and pit wash days since we couldn't shower. It happens. These made that easier for us.

definitely was the truck, but super loud bike horns do exist.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

What about one of those really loud airhorns? It could put someone off guard without directly causing injury.

I raise you a rechargeable air-horn:

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC

This is the one that I have. I've been very happy with it!

You either ride on the sidewalk (which, IMHO, is totally fine if you judge the road to be extremely dangerous... don't ever risk your life... ) or gird your loins and take the fuck out of the lane. Light yourself up like a Christmas tree, get one of these, wear a reflective vest, and get ready for stressful nonsense and road rage. The ride MAY not be as bad as you think once a few additional factors are taken into account:

1. Traffic. Heavy traffic is your friend on these roads. I would imagine the lanes are pretty wide, so splitting them through heavy traffic will be pretty easy.
   
   
2. Pick your route. You may be able to whittle down the amount of REALLY fast road you have to ride on by taking some short detours.

That's awesome! You're definitely free to come by shop hours and ask advice and use the tools there. We've got all the bike tools you'd need for sure.

I'm sure if you post the picture on our Facebook page you'd get lots of helpful suggestions. To start you off, I'll recommend an Airzound horn. They're ridiculously loud and refillable with your bike pump.

Here's a video of me cleaning and putting the whole thing back together. And, yes, it still works.

The two plastic body pieces were soaked for 24 hours before scrubbing it down. The lube used in the video for the plastic contact points as well as the trackball rollers is Finish Line Extreme Fluoro.

A big thanks to my friend /u/jfgorski for the Alphagrip iGrip! Read his opinion on the device right here, he's been using these things for years and has much more insight than I could ever provide. Also, thanks to /u/ripster55 for letting me post this here.

Maybe a Casio EF-503D? In your price range, it has to be quartz.

Mora knives have always served me very well as outdoors knives.

they might look cheap, but they have great steel, and have really held up (I typically buy the stainless version like this one)

https://smile.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004ZAIXSC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466474771&sr=8-1&keywords=stainless+mora

I had been making photo albums but just started a YouTube channel. My friend was nice enough to let me borrow his GoPro and mounts but most of the time I record with my phone (also have another camera but it's a bit broken and can only take pictures). Part of what I'm ordering from amazon is a new monopod/tripod/selfie stick which I'm very much in need of at the moment since my videos are a bit shaky.

Haven't gotten around to do any solo 2 day trips yet (most of the time I'd be with a group and there would be designated campsites to fill up water at) but if I was going out with no means to fill up I'd take anywhere from 4-6 liters of water. The climate here is very hot and there is no such thing as bringing too much water. If there was a water source I could potentially allow myself to bring less since I could boil any water I find.

Amazon list:
-5.11 Rush 72 55L backpack
-Mora Companion (stainless steel)
-Bahco Laplander
-Headlamp
-Jetboil 10in frying pan
-Whetstone

All together that weighs 7.9 pounds and at some point I'd like to get a sleeping pad and tarp bringing it up to ten pounds (not including food, water, and other supplies which might get me to around 15-20 pounds depending on the duration of my outings).

As for the grill it's just a makeshift one. Four tent pegs and a small grate.

I'm a big fan of Mora knives. Good knives at a very reasonable price. All of the ones linked come with hard plastic sheaths.

If you aren't in a city with notoriously high and advanced bike theft, and aren't leaving it out overnight, try this: http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Pitbull-Ls-11-5-4-5/dp/B005YPKBRI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463020335&sr=8-3&keywords=onguard+pitbull

The long shackle is technically less secure, because it's easier to leverage open, but in a place without a lot of racks it's a blessing to have, because you can fairly easily find /something/ in short walking distance that'll go around, unlike the smaller Ulocks that mostly only work with racks (or, I've found, bikes without big bags and wide upright handlebars). It's a good medium security lock, and both sides of the shackle lock. Downsides, it's heavy, because big, but not as heavy as a chain which is your next smart option (don't get cable locks, they can be cut soooo easily), and the mounting bracket is OK, but I've had two of them fail. I just carry mine in a bag now.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463020570&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+series+2 This is a little lower security lock, but still a mighty fine one in an area with mostly thefts of opportunity. The included cable is for passing through your wheels for a secondary bit of safety. It's the best selling option at the good local bike shop out where I am (Indianapolis).

As for using them, this is the classic guide: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html His method is routinely the best, but without racks it can be hard to lock through the wheel and not the frame. If you can't lock through the wheel, make sure the shackle goes through one of the triangles. And, no matter what, lock to something securely attached to the ground and don't lock to anything the bike can be lifted off and over. Be sure and try lifting any cheap racks you do come across, you'll be surprised how many aren't bolted down right... or at all.

> -If you ride a bike around your campus: get a u-lock and a u-lock only.

And use it right. Through at least the the frame and bike rack, front tire if you can, and if it came with an extra chain/cable, loop that through the back tire.

This kind of lock set is what I mean.

Here is an excellent run-down of the topic:
http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-lock/

Best take-away quote from the article:

>What does it mean that a “decent” lock takes 63 seconds to breach with an angle grinder whereas the “best” takes 117 seconds? Exactly what it sounds like: almost nothing.

Therefore get the Kryptonite Series 2 lock with a cable for attaching your wheel.

Also how you lock your bike, what you attach it to, how long you leave it there, and where you leave it have much more of an affect on your bikes overall safety than the difference between withstanding an angle grinder for 1 minute or 2 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ

Works well with my road bike and my MTB.

I have used 2 stands. One is a cheap $50 amazon stand the other is a Park Tool stand I found on craigslist. The Cheap stand work, it is taller but less stable. I prefer grabbing the seat post than grabbing the top tube so the cheap stand will rotate to balance the bike. I cannot get the chain horizontal to run though a chain cleaner. It will always settle to an angle. If it doesnt bother you than a cheap stand works. bike hand has a stand that was $90 now $100 that the head is teethed to prevent rotation. I was going to get that one before I found the Park Tool Stand on Craigslist.

Any stand will be usable but some might be less stable than others or give you a headache. There is a point you pay for what you get before it turns into you pay for the name.

I got this one and its worked well for general maintenance, repair, and bike building.

I only have two legs and I rarely fall over.

Seriously though, unless you're being careless they are plenty sturdy. I'd recommend this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I've heard good things about the Aldi stand if you want to go super cheap.

You should definitely get a torque wrench. I've been happy with the Nashbar branded one.

A 2,500 dollar bike is a bit much, but if you really want to bring an expensive bike on campus, get a nice U-Lock!

This is the best one I've ever used. I have a pretty nice bike, and somebody tried to cut through this lock to get to it once. They only got through the few mm thick outer rubber layer, and then gave up. It's a bitch to cut through this thing.

Before you go "all in" and spend silly money to do this conversion, why don't you try something like "clamp on drops", or possibly some of the more radical "trekking bars"?

I think even after you spend all that money to convert this upright bike to drops, you'll ultimately be disappointed in the result. It just doesn't have the geometries that make your CX bike "fun".

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013G6PB8

20 bucks, plus you'll want some bar tape.

If you want to brake and shift from the drops, at least 300 more and it'll still suck.

Edit: Also consider clip-on aero bars. You can't brake from those anyway. Otherwise if you want a road bike with drops, sell the one you have (or not - n+1 and all that) and get a caad10 ;)

You don't really say where you are and what type of riding you'll be doing but here's my $0.02 on what I've done and would recommend to others.


Clipless Pedals + Shoes --> These are the newer version to what I use on my roadie, but if you want the versatility of the dual clipless or the single+flat on the other side, you can do that. Or you can go with full-road-cleated pedals, of course. For the shoes, try some out at a store, the internet hasn't replaced this step.

Saddle bag -- I err.. duct taped a tube to my seatpost and carry the rest of my crap in my jersey pockets.

Water bottle -- If you ride in extreme weather, consider an insulated bottle, it's sooo nice to fill with iced water and have cool water to dring on 100F+ days

Pump -- I have one that came with a bracket to bolt under the water cages, maybe look for one like it (can't remember the brand of mine)

??? (I have no idea what else I will need) -- you'll need/want:

• a multitool to adjust or fix anything that can come up. I have the park multitool and I don't really recommend it as there's probably better tools out there for road bike use, just make sure that it has a chain tool included.
  
• Tire levers, if they aren't included somehow in the multitool. I always carry one extra so I can have 3 leverage points if I get a flat.
  
• With a new bike you might need bottle cages.
  
• Get some chain lube if you don't have any.
  
• Depending on chain brand, a power link or quick link
  
• For patch kits, the park one is pretty much OK but do stay away from the self-adhering ones, they're garbage!

your price is just about right for shoes + pedals. Most new bikes dont come with a pedal so unless you know otherwise about the bike you are getting you will probably need to purchase a pedal and if you are purchasing pedals you might as well purchase shoes :] right? if you give a cyclist a bike, hell want pedals, if you give him pedals, hell want shoes... :P Also im a big fan of just splurging on what you can and enjoying the full package. This is all dependent though on your budget.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO

this is the pedal i ride on my commuter. its a good dual duty pedal and the platform feels solid. Its a bit bulky so i dont ride it on my nice bike but if your planning on clipping in only sometimes i would suggest this one. If you are planning on riding clipped a majority then i would suggest a pedal without the platform.

Here are the differences in clips. (i think they are called the cleat but i am going to continue calling them the clips)

road clip

road clip shoes notice these have 3 holes where you screw the clip into the shoe in a triangular pattern.

spd clip

spd clip on shoe

notice the spd clip is smaller and recessed. This makes the shoe feel more like a normal shoe and you dont notice the clip as much

road v spd, road on left

road v spd clips and pedals

As a late disclaimer, I have never used road clips but this is the information i gathered in the process of purchasing. Road clipped shoes also usually have a stiffer sole, i believe.

As far as your question goes. I cant imagine long rides anymore without being clipped into the bike. You feel and are more attached to your machine. Your pedaling will most likely be more fluid, you can pull the pedals on the upstroke, your feet wont pop off the pedals on hard shifts letting you pedal through the shifts (something i couldnt do so well without clipless), and you have to learn to trust your bike because your stuck in it :]

That said, I did ride without clipless shoes for quite a while and didnt have any problems but if you asked me to go back now i wouldnt do it. I think if you cant swing a set of shoes and pedals right now, you wouldnt die because of it, but i would suggest investing in them if you are looking to be more serious about riding.

I hope this helps your decision and doesnt make things even more confusing :P

heres my setup for reference.

shoes $100

pedals $70

if your not sure how to use them. You slide the front of the clip in and then start pedaling and push the back of the clip in and it will click in. To get out you twist your ankle away from the bike and the clip will pop out. After i get my pedals i always loosen the spring on the pedal to the loosest setting, then tighten to preference. Looser settings will allow you to still twist your foot side to side while clipped in. Also i think spd clips will give you more side to side play than a road clip.

EDIT: i changes the road clip picture, it was a bit confusing before

Ka-Bar Becker BK2

Ontario RAT-3

Becker BK-16

Depending how big of a knife you want

If you really want a monster sized knife, sure. But I'd definitely get the carbon steel version that some others have suggested as well. It sounds like their quality isn't too bad.

However, I don't know if I'd really want to take something that huge hiking. Maybe SHTF-type hiking I suppose.

A couple of knives that I'd think would be similar priced or less (and have proven reputations) and would slightly more practically fall into the "only 1" category:

• Ka Bar Becker BK2
  
• Ka Bar Becker BK16
  
• Condor Bushlore - there are other Condor models that are great values as well, but might need a little touchup love.
  
• Morakniv - there is even one with a firesteel built into the handle
  
• ESEE 4 (this might be a tad more expensive)
  
• Ka Bar Becker BK7 or BK9 if you really want a huge knife, but I would definitely consider something smaller to piggyback on the sheath.
  
  Good luck regardless!

Honestly Id go fixed blade and I'd get something decently sized, ive been looking at the Becker BK2 (you can find this for $50 a few other places)
http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-BK2-Campanion-Fixed/dp/B001N1DPDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1302310192&sr=8-1

Reason why is that its alot easier to work with wood, fixed blades are going to be alot stronger then any folding knife, its just all around going to be better for most situations.

Things to look for in a knife, well to start with you have to think about what you may use it for, is it a survival knife are you going to have to use it to work with wood, make fires, or maybe pitch up a shelter? Maybe just for cutting bandages, moleskin? Prepping food?
Alot of people will argue about the type of steel, stainless is supposed to be harder to sharpen but honestly its a some metal with a sharp edge pretty much anything will do, just watch out for the $5 wall mart knives, reading a few reviews will help.

Don't buy a kbar or something like that, anything that comes to a very sharp point is used for stabbing people, not for cutting stuff and I hope you dont plan on doing alot of that.

How thick the knife is, thicker blades tend to be better for prying or hacking stuff, but they will be heavier too.
Watch out for how the blade attaches to the handle, alot of knives skimp out on the steel and the blade is kind of just glued on or lightly bolted on and it makes them really flimsy. I know with the kbar the steel for the blade goes all the way back and the handle is bolted on to the steel for the blade, most non-cheap knives should be like this.
Blade length, longer blades will be better for hacking/chopping think mechette, but it will be more difficult to use them to cut smaller things like moleskin, bandages, or doing food prep.
well that's a few things to look at someone else suggested a SOG seal pup that's a good knife as well something else to look at. I probably wouldn't spend more then maybe $60-70 and avoid anything super cheap.

I've used this and could not tell the difference to CRK grease. No experience with anything Nano though.

Sawyer mini is the way to go for water filtering.

Definitely a sawyer mini water filter.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FA2RLX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405573467&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

Gorruck 34L GR2 Coyote Tan - a good bag, heavy, uncomfortable, probably give it to my grandchildren in like 50 years

Flip Flops - generic things

Bigblue 28W solar charger - very good, can charge my battery up during the day if i leave it in the sun which I've never really done honestly

Jakemy hardware tools - seamed useful? i've never needed this

Army glove shells - i thought i used these a lot and were indistructable but now that i think of it, i don't use them that often and are probably pretty cheaply made.

Sharpie, pen, all weather notebook - probably should switch over to a fisher space pen...

Straws - these are probably already broken.

Whistle - really really really loud

Fire-striker, matches, lighter - i'm not sure i have enough ways to start a fire

Fresnel lens - ok, now i have enough

LED flashlight - i used to go running in the middle of the night with this flashlight, its tiny

LED flashlight - this isn't the one i have but looks kinda similar? i don't remember where i got mine

Earbuds - generic cheap earbuds

Leatherman Surge - given to me by my wife for passing the bar. thanks wife!

First Aide kit - i put mine together from stuff i've stolen from friends houses whenever i go over and use the bathroom

playing cards - these look very similar to the ones i have, they are plastic so they won't get rained on

glasses/ sunglasses - i have really bad vision

personal hygiene kit - aahhhh dry shaving

Sawyer Mini / syringe, collapsible canteen (dirty), heavy duty straw - i've never used this

collapsible canteen (clean) - i've never used this either

sewing kit - i've used this a lot

ID tags - i guess if i get blown up they'll know my blood type?

garbage bag - for when my pockets are full

elastic bands - i use these when packing to keep rolled socks and things from falling apart

Salt - i have nooooo idea why i have this

cooking grate - i'm not going to hold meat over a fire with a stick like some sort of caveman

heavy duty ziplock bag - in case my mapcase breaks and other reasons

rip-patch - leftover from when i needed a pack because i bought a crummy cheap inflatable sleeping pad.

Army Fleece Beanie - i always keep this at the top of my pack

4 Bungie Cords - not the one i use but similar. to make a field-expedient shelter

Trowel - for disposal of biological wastes

Lensatic compass - because GPS should only be a backup

Pocketboy 130 folding saw - i have a bigger one for yardwork, this small one is really great

Tent stakes - for tent staking

Ravpower 26800 Battery - use this all the time can fast chage my stuff

Battery Battery holder, cables, wall charger - all fits togehter like glove!

Army Poncho - wear it, make a tent out of it etc

Microfiber towel - not the one i use but similar. i mainly use this for when the kids accidentally fall in a lake like they tend to do for some reason

Down Jacket - cheap chinese knockoff... i feel bad for not buying american

Wet weather top - not sure this is worth the space/weight

Wet Weather bottom - not sure if this is worth the weight/space

Silkweights - PJs! and warmth

Jungle Blanket - this is a lot better than the army's woobie. lighter and warmer

Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet - again, gift from wife. she wanted me to chop things and be more manly, generally. now i come home with parts of wildlife for her to cook

Map of New England - or, how i stopped worrying and love dismounted land navigation

PT belt - keeps me safe in all situations

Compression straps - i don't like lashing things to the outside but i guess i can if i wanted to

Fork and Spoon - stole these from the kitchen. i'll probably be replacing this soon with something titanium.

​

EDIT: i just priced it out: $1,585.08 total

Here is a great little stove. It's a Chinese whisperlight, but I've been using it quite a bit over the past 2 years and have no complaints whatsoever. Also super cheap, which gives you more money to play with.

The Sawyer mini squeeze is also a great item to have. You should have $20-25 left after these two items.

Here's a decent magnesium fire starter for cheap as well.

With these items, all essential/survival items, you should have about $15-20 to play with. Maybe some socks?

OK, here is a brain dump of whatever comes into my mind. Just hoping to spark your memory so don't get mad if I say a bunch of stuff you already know...

Put all the pieces into a lighterpack.com account and checkout r/Ultralight before you buy (head over there and burn down the sidebar reading list and the incomplete-wiki, it's worth it).

Is that Osprey really 70 L? That's huge. Probably weighs a ton, what are you bringing that fills up 70 L on a 3-5 day summer trip? A 50 L beer keg? Maybe you have some sweet luxury items that take up a lot of space in the pack, but I'd drop the volume on the pack to at least 50 L. If you can manage it, Try a Ultimate Direction Fastpack 30. But if you just can't get your volume that small, get what works. Weight is an issue too, in frameless packs the straps are uncomfortable over 30 lbs, sometimes less. But if you make some smart choices right now, you shouldn't bust 30 lbs. (It's also smart to get the rest of the gear first to get an idea of how much volume you'll need in your pack and if you'll need a frame.)

Research quilt vs sleeping bag. Quilts are big these days unless you are a crazy sleeper. Enlightened Equipment is the shiz. I've bought 4 quilts and made 3 DIY and EE are the best I've tried. EE also sells a synthetic quilt called the prodigy which I use in the summers or as a layer in the winters. I hear that Katabatic quilts are truly the best if the price tag doesn't scare you away. And a super cheap, but quality option though on aliexpress, it's buy at your own risk. Worked for me last time, doesn't mean it will next time.

Massdrop is selling a skinny UL static V (and the insulated verion) right now for cheap. (I own the insulated option and bought it from massdrop.) But there's a lighter not-as-skinny pad called a Thermorest Neoair Xlite. Also the sea to shining sea ultralight pad gets high marks. So look at those, see what other pads are popping on r/ultralight, the balance the weight and costs to your preference. (Assuming you know about r-values and what your needs will be in Maine/Vermont. I'm guessing spring is a little cold so maybe r=~4 in the early spring or high altitude?)

Nemo tents are great. If you're only camping spring/summer I'd get a much lighter weight tarp tent. Like 3 lbs or less including stakes/cords (and footprint if your tent has a bathtub floor).

11-14 oz MSR Whisperlite is awesome. Stoves are pretty personal, it's best to go with one you trust. MSR is probably the right choice for you. I use a tiny 2oz stove and a homemade windscreen. My stove is finicky and too small if you're cooking for 2 or more. However, there's a whole mess of stoves between the 2oz and 14 oz which might still cover you and save you a few ounces or half a pound. Like the Kovea Spider which I also have, and use in the cold (gas liquefies and fuel can must be inverted, so I need a freestanding stove with a tube). I'm personally biased against the jetboil because of how much space it takes in my pack, but I own 2. They are fast, good for groups. Again the MSR is NOT a bad choice.

You also need a cook pot. Titanium is a waste of money, find a cheap Aluminum one for the same results. Like the olicamp ones, or if you want a real lid, you'll have to spend more (the metal lids cost way more for some odd reason).

Water filtration. Everybody ravs over the Sawyer Squeeze and I guess I'm out of the loop having never tried it. Fretting about making sure my filter doesn't freeze seems like a source of anxiety. I'll try it eventually though. I like the hand pump water filters. I rock an MSR hyperflow. And if I'm in a big group, I'll break out my Katadyn 6L Gravity Filter.

Get a down jacket from costco or sams for 20$, if you're camping in it, you'll wear it out so no use spending a ton there. (Down packs small and won't take up nearly any pack space)

Get a headlamp, I prefer blackdiamond or Fenix. For BD this image sums it up very nicely. For fenix there's a variety but I am currently using the HL55 (900 lumens). Again look at the weights, but also look at the battery requirements and the longevity/efficiency. Find what you like.

Ok my brain is dumped. Hopefully I hit on something worth your time. If I were you, I'd go as cheap as possible, then put the savings into funding your travel for hiking or buying a kayak. Random, I know, but having blown tons of money on gear I feel like there's quality for a good price if you look for it. And using the extra money to break into a new hobby opens the door to a potentially mind altering experience. Especially a related hobby like kayaking, fishing, snowshoeing, rock climbing, diving (though this one is lots of money), or whatever's clever.

Your stove is fairly heavy, you can save 9 oz with a BRS3000 (.9 oz) and a light aluminum or Ti pot. This is the cheapest way to lighten up if you want to stay with a cannister. A DIY ethanol stove is cheaper and lighter still.

Do you need such a heavy battery?

Are you bringing a phone?

Sounds like you probably don't NEED the Whisperlite as you're not really taking advantage of its features and carrying all the extra weight of a Whisperlite.


There are tons of cheap canister stoves on Amazon. Since your friends use a Jetboil, it sounds like you can buy canister fuel. I currently use this stove. https://www.amazon.com/BRS-Outdoor-Camping-Portable-Ultralight/dp/B00NNMF70U/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510073163&sr=1-1&keywords=bsr+stove&dpID=41J7KacqzpL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch I do find it is loud, but I bet it's much quieter than the Whisperlite which IIRC is very loud.


I've never understood the advantage to the Jetboil systems. IMO, they add a lot of extra weight to gain the fuel efficiency advantage of having a heat exchanger added into it. To me, they are simply not worth the extra expense and weight penalty.

The quality is all pretty similar. The real difference is in feature set and ability to control the flame-for example there's a world of difference in flame control between a Primus Omnilite and a MSR Whisperlite even though both are high quality products with a proven track record of reliability.

Some of the cheap canister stoves are also pretty good quality, since there just isn't too much engineering that's needed to make one. The BRS stove is a good example of such. These things are really just a screw on valve assembly and a burner, not much else is needed.

This is lighter then the micro rocket and much cheaper then both the pocket rocket and micro rocket.

http://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U

Others on the Ultralight subreddit have recommended this stove as well.

Here is what I think is the best stove for backpacking and it is $12.

https://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U


Add a fuel canister to that, a cheap pot, a mini bic lighter and a spoon and your kitchen is complete.


Rent the Big3 from REI (sleeping bag, tent, pack). Buy the Sawyer Mini water filter for $25 and use Smartwater bottles to store water. Take your existing clothes (no cotton) and use your existing shoes.

As others have said, it really depends on what you are doing and what you plan to cook.

For car camping, I've got a big dual burner Coleman propane stove. With a griddle, I can cook up bacon, eggs, and potatoes and feed an army. I also use this stove for BBQs and backyard parties, it's a beast. If I were to buy one now I'd probably get a Camp Chef Everest.

If I'm car camping but flying to my destination, or backpacking and want to do a little cooking, I'll bring a Kovea Supalite (without the piezo). It's a great little Ti stove, big enough to hold a normal size frying pan but folds up nice and small. The MSR Pocket Rocket 2 is very similar.

When I'm just out on my own and only need to heat a mug of water for freeze dried meals, I'll bring the BRS-3000T. Got it on Amazon for $12, it's a nice litte stove... but some have had issues with the stand collapsing from heat when running full blast. I don't use it full open to conserve fuel so I haven't had a problem. The BRS-3000T is a knock-off of the Fire-Maple FMS-300T (which I didn't know at the time); I picked up the US version for my son, the Olicamp Ion Micro Ti, again a great little stove.

I've got an old Jetboil (link to the updated version); it's an integrated stove which means the pot is connected to the stove; this can be useful in some situations. The main benefit of the Jetboil is that the pot has a heat exchanger so it's very efficient heating water. With the integration and heat exchanger, it's a bit heavy compared to other options, but it's very convenient. I don't bring it backpacking too often due to the weight, but it goes car camping so I can heat water for coffee while other things are cooking on the dual burner propane stove. Today, I'd probably get the MSR Windburner or the Fire-Maple FMS-X2.

Lastly, I've made several alcohol stoves BITD. The benefit of an alcohol stove is that you can make one for free, you only need to bring as much fuel as you're going to use (as opposed to a canister where you may end up carrying around a half-empty canister at the end of the trip). One downside is that it's slow, in the mornings I like to have my water heated quickly for coffee. Another is that it's considered an open fire, some places with fire restrictions won't allow a stove that doesn't have a valve to turn it off.

Sterno is a terrible fuel for backpacking. I'd use a canister fuel stove. A cheap option is the BRS 3000 - link here.

An alternative would be to build your own alcohol stove, which is easy but slightly more finicky. Follow the rough directions [here] (http://andrewskurka.com/2011/how-to-make-a-fancy-feast-alcohol-stove/)

Try to get a pair with flip locks, instead of twist locks. Twist is the old tech, doesn't work well, and you'll wish you had flip if you put them side by side.

These cost more than the ones you link to, but are worth the price (still reasonable considering.) Have cork grips (better in sweaty hands), carbon fiber (lighter in weight but stronger than aluminum), flip locks (way easier to adjust and more trustworthy).

You can even buy them on Amazon for $500! https://www.amazon.com/Electric-long-range-Fold-n-Carry-Ultra-Lightweight-electric/dp/B076KKX4BC

They look like this

https://www.amazon.com/Xiaomi-Electric-Long-range-Fold-n-Carry-Ultra-Lightweight/dp/B076KKX4BC

You download an app and it's like 15 cents mile or something. But they are everywhere downtown. Thousands littered all on sidewalks. It's crazy.

Not sure if this is the one you’re looking for but when it was in stock I think it was like $600?

Xiaomi Mi Electric Scooter, 18.6 Miles Long-Range Battery, Up to 15.5 MPH, Easy Fold-n-Carry Design, Ultra-Lightweight Adult Electric Scooter (US Version with Warranty) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fssVCbX0HVC6V

I'm guessing you're in the US since you're referencing FFR. What's your current scooter? I don't normally join circlejerks, but the Xiaomi M365 is a pretty good value and it's below your budget at $379 right now on Amazon. Pneumatic tires will provide better grip and ride quality than solid tires, and if you keep the pressure up high enough (depends on your weight, but around 50 PSI), flats are not that big of an issue. The stem wobble is also better in recently produced units, and if it ever gets bad you can buy cheap rubber dampers to tighten it back up.

Just buy one...pretty cheap and same model they use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KKX4BC?pf_rd_p=f3acc539-5d5f-49a3-89ea-768a917d5900&pf_rd_r=83J6X75D1GFH410A7V7G

To clarify, the Nitecore NU25 (Amazon link).

I love it! Super light, rechargeable, very bright, decent battery life, redmode. Perfect for a weekend trip.

I'll recommend the Wowtac A2S NW as well - brighter and way longer battery. It's a little heavier, but that pays off with more battery life (and an interchangeable cell).

The brs 3000 also gets a lot of mentions for inexpensive backpacking stoves.

I will say this though, it is nice to have a quality backpacking stove like the pocket rocket 2. I have both the etekcity and the pocket rocket. The pocket rocket feels sturdier and has bigger arms. Here is a photo of the same pot on the PR and etekcity. Those little arms on the etekcity just kind of flop back and forth too. I dont have any experience with the brs 3000 though

Stove: BSR Ultralight stove

Spoon: Toaks Ti Long handle

Pot: Toaks Ti 750ml

Fire: Bic Mini

Seasoning: Tabasco in 30ml plastic dripper bottle

Water bottle: Smart Water 1L (x2)

Purification: Boil (winter) Sawyer Squeeze (other 3 seasons)

Meals: Mountain House, Packit Gourmet, SPAM singles, trail mix

I eat right out of the bag for the dehydrated meals

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/BRS-Outdoor-Lightweight-Stove-Titanium-alloy-Burner-Camping-Stove-BRS-3000T/2042933370.html non mobile link

Also amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NNMF70U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2FVB70KDJE667

Maybe he means the BRS stove on Amazon that sells for like 13-15$
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NNMF70U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478337502&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=brs+stove&dpPl=1&dpID=31OzI0vXTFL&ref=plSrch

I second the Fizans! I've had a pair since '09 and they've been everywhere with me with never a problem. They look pretty battered but they work as new!

My girlfriend has the Cascade Mountain Tech carbon poles and they are OK. Although they are not exactly heavy, they seem so after using the Fizans! They are also not as well made and I'll be surprised if they last 10 years without replacing the flick locks (Andrew Skurka has an article on his blog about this issue and how to fix it)

That's what I have and what I was going to suggest. I'm not convinced that I need to spend $100 on hiking poles.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XM0YGW8/ref=twister_B00YHMJ6BQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

These are pretty well recommended for their price if no one else offers a trade.

Incorrect. The twist lock version is $39.99. The quick lock version, which is what Costco has, is $44.99.

Green Graphics with Cork Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XM0YGW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s8K4ybRHS6MNX

These are pretty popular over at /r/ultralight

You can get the poles new!: https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-Mountain-Tech-Adjustable-Trekking/dp/B00XM0YGW8/ref=sr_1_2?qid=1570107038&refinements=p_89%3ACascade+Mountain+Tech&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-2

I have these poles and they're very good for the money!

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00XM0YGW8 if you're in Canada.

Or, check Costco for them. They're cheap, light, durable enough. If you really like poles, look to upgrade in the future. But give those a go first imo

you can still get those on amazon for $43 I have them and they are pretty nice

Good spot! Link for lazy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpgqDb8YJJ960

Why not just buy an electric scooter at that cost?

https://www.amazon.com/Xiaomi-Electric-Long-range-Fold-n-Carry-Ultra-Lightweight/dp/B076KKX4BC $420 for the same model.

I have the same scooter that Bird uses and use it for daily commute. If you're not overweight (275+) you should be fine on slight hills and such.

I am above that weight limit and still have enough juice to do about 5 miles daily on a single charge.

I use it to get from Rosi village to Forest Hills and then the reverse commute is North Station to South Station and then Forest Hills to home.

It feels much safer and more comfortable riding in bike lanes than sidewalks, cars are not much of an issue I've found, traffic is usually slower than me eve ant 15-16.5mph


The biggest issue is fixing a patch if you pop a tire. Just take the wheel to a bike shop with a new inner tube (they sell thicker ones on amazon too) - costs about $15 to fix a flat. The reason I dont say DIY is cause it's a fucking PAIN to get the tire back on.


All in all, I love how it's modified my commute. I have done the full North Station to Roslindale commute (9mi in about 55min) went from full charge to 20%, but again, I'm a big guy so you have to think about that when considering distance. 3 miles you should be able to do in 20-25min no problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Xiaomi-Electric-Long-range-Fold-n-Carry-Ultra-Lightweight/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=214412971590&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001978&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17202018431095415180&hvtargid=kwd-301887435343&keywords=xiaomi+m365&qid=1554410865&s=gateway&sr=8-3

May not help you but Bird uses these - https://www.amazon.com/Electric-long-range-Fold-n-Carry-Ultra-Lightweight-electric/dp/B076KKX4BC

I ended up buying one of the models that Bird uses (M365 here) and have been in love with it. I use it as my main source of transportation now, and it gets me anywhere I need to go in the city.

I think with time the Public opinion on these will change as they're so much cheaper and energy efficient than cars for small trips.

Great, super light, can hold in hand for better trail illumination or clip on to a hat for hands free.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUO028U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b2l2Cb31GDXSB

Awesome headlamp. Super light, lots of levels and a red light and lockable. Get it from Litesmith.com with the shock cord band for an even lighter option.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z3LNX9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q3l2CbTEV8FDE

I have both and love both.

I used my phone for Guthook/camera (and podcasts) so it was pretty much a necessity to be charged before I could leave town... so I made sure my wall-charger, powerbank, and phone were all quick-charge and it made a massive difference for me: I would hit town and put phone/powerbank on charge first thing, do my re-ration etc, then be able to hit the trail again within a few hours with full charge ... whereas I knew other folk who had to stay overnight when they didn't want to.

I got:

• AUKEY USB Wall Charger with Quick Charge 3.0 & Dual Ports (surprisingly large, but worked great.)
  
• Anker PowerCore II 10000 (great, quick charge both in and out. Only 1 port, but I 95% of the time just charged the phone.)
  
• Nitecore NU25 (awesome torch. not quickcharge, but never really needed it)
  
• 2 USB cables (came with the above stuff, I switched one out for a shorter one eventually)
  
• Motorola G4+ (good for Guthook, meh camera but did the job well enough and it was kinda disposable as it only cost $100 unlocked)
  
• iPod nano (I just like music so much while I walk I wanted a backup in case phone started getting low, and this thing is tiny. I actually used it a ton!)
  
  I think 2 ports is enough really, I would just charge the headtorch/ipod when I got the chance or a longer town stay. Ontrail I would kinda start running low if I used the phone a lot for 4 days, and have to be a bit conservy... there's likely better stuff now, but just fyi!
  

Let's be real here....locks are only deterrents for honest people. If someone wants your bike, they'll find a way...


But to OP...if you want to make it a damn tough job to get your bike, invest in one of these...

http://smile.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413005358&sr=8-3&keywords=kryptonite+new+york

Your lock is only as strong as the weakest link so don't skimp on anything else if you're going to get this..I've held it in person it is pretty heavy...I'd say a good 4 or 5 pounds even though Amazon says 1...it's definitely not only a pound. But there's no way you're going to cut that off with boltcutters, you'd need an angle grinder. Keep that in mind if you're going to get it.

Glad to hear you still have your bike. I highly recommend this as a replacement.

The thing is bomb-proof. Honestly one of the things that's really nice about the NY lock is how recognizable it is. If I were a bike thief, I wouldn't even go near a bike that has one of those on it. Even if a thief doesn't get your bike, the process of attempting to steal it has the potential to do damage, so anything that functions as a deterrent is a definite bonus.

New York Fahgettaboudit, This is the bike lock I use, its expensive but its pretty much the only lock you'll ever need. Just the look of it alone is enough to make robbers look the other way.

Here's what I do for my Bullitt: One Kryptonite Fuhgeddaboudit (small as you can get), and a set of Pinhead lock set (locking skewers for wheels and locking seat post collar). A slim Tile under the cargo deck sealed with 3M Heavy Duty Packing tape.


With the pinhead lock set, you only need to lock the frame with the Fuhgeddaboudit U-lock (typically I lock at one of the lateral vertical braces parallel to the head tube, or if I have the big cargo box for the kids on the front, will lock around one of the rear seat stays).

Kryptonite Lock: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OZ9VLU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pinhead lock set: https://smile.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B000XHBKOU/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1525893173&sr=1-6&keywords=pinhead+lock

I have a kryptonite fagetaboutit mini for the primary and employ two folding locks on the front a rear to cover the wheels. Usually a multiple lock approach means that many more cuts and will make your bike that much more unattractive to pilfer.
Stay away from any cable solution, they are worthless.

the thumb shifter won't work on drops. flat bar clamp section is 22.2mm, drop bar clamp section is 23.8

You can make it work with the sora STI shifter you listed, the cheaper alternative is the microshift stuff you can buy on ebay (I'd go with second hand shimano stuff though)

Then you'd need new cables

Of course the easier option is to just get bar ends, you can even get drop bar bar ends

I have (nearly) the same bike as you (7.4 Firebrand) and ride mine for the same purposes. Lately I've been training for a charity ride and got a pair of these for cheap on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

The only rub is that you have to also buy adapters for the IsoZone grips so the drop bar ends will fit (~$5). I also got some cork tape from the same company for relatively cheap, altogether making it much cheaper than buying whole new handlebars and shifters.

Also, if you're getting into more fitness riding/training, I couldn't recommend clipless pedals and MTB shoes enough. They've helped with my rides tremendously!

You could get bar end drops instead of changing out your handlebars completely.

This is what I suggest to people when they ask this question. Doing a true drop bar conversion will likely be too expensive to be practical. You had might as well either get some bar-ends like these or just save up for a different bike.

• Mountain bikes tend to only have 1 way to hold the bike. Ditch the grips and get some bar tape, along with some bar ends. Normal bullhorn style ones are fine, but if you really want to step up your game, Origin8 makes some drop-bar attachments that are pretty sweet
  
  
• Clipless pedals aren't for everyone. If they make your feet and knees hurt, don't use em. Simple as that.
  
  
• This could be a matter of posture. If your core isn't supporting enough weight, it can mess up the curvature of your back. That will move strain up onto your upper back and shoulders...right where you're getting the pain.
  
  
• Might be a loose headset. Could be worse a trip to the shop.
  
  
• Knobbly tires are terrible for road riding. Swapping to a smooth road-tread or outright slick tire will improve your bike's grip and acceleration significantly.
  
  
• Getting a fitbit or some other personal telemetry tracker would probably help.

there's always this option too. $500 vs $20, can't hurt to try.

You will need new brakes as well because the Tourney brifters won't pull V-Brakes enough for them to stop. I personally don't recommend that he go this route.

The better route might be:

• Origin8 Drop Bar Attachments (http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8)
  
• Keep existing shifters
  
• Get Tektro RL520 V-brake drop levers
  
• Get Tektro RL740 interrupter levers.
  
• New brake cable and cable housing.
  
  You may not be able to shift from the hood or drops, but you'll have more hand positions.

These might be Origin8 Drop Ends from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013G6PB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I installed these on my raleigh cadent 1 hybrid and it's great! Offers similar feel to standard drop handlebars without the hassle of actually converting.

Amazon Black Mako

I have a Blue Mako - beautiful sturdy watch. For the money, it doesn't get any better. I get lots of compliments on mine. Casual, or dressed up. Looks great.

I don't think this is what you wanted exactly but… I would recommend all 4. Seiko and citizen are two great watch companies for the price point. My one other recommendation is for the orient mako Black, Blue, Amazon search for other colors. That said to help make a decision you should ask yourself a few questions.

Do you want an automatic or quartz?

What size watch do you want? (How big are your wrists?)

Which one do you like the best?

It really depends on how dressy you want to go - unless you work in a super conservative industry, you can stray relatively far from the traditional "dress" watch. A few options that are more casual/versatile but would still easily work with a suit in most settings:

• Orient Mako, Chicane, or Flight
  
• Seiko SKX-007
  
• Bernhardt Binnacle Anchor II
  
• G. Gerlach RWD-6
  
  There are also a ton of Seiko 5 models that are very versatile and way under your budget.

I'd recommend one of Orient's divers:

Ray

Mako


There are several color options and they are great for the money. In house movements, decent bracelets and in my opinion, great looking. I have the ray raven and love it.

If you want to spend a little more, the Bernhardt Binnacle Diver is another great option. I also own one of these and I can tell you the biggest difference compared to the Orients is in the bracelet. It has to be one of the best ones on the market in that price range.

The bezel is the (typically) metal or ceramic ring that surrounds the dial. On a lot of watches it is stationary, just part of the case. Most divers have a uni, or bidirectional rotating bezel that is historically used to time a dive. The bezels are usually pretty large on these so that they can be easily read, even underwater.

Orient makes some really affordable, automatic divers that are often recommended here. Is that the style you're looking for?

http://www.amazon.com/Orient-CEM65001B-Black-Automatic-Watch/dp/B001EWEQ3A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348548912&sr=8-1&keywords=orient+mako

Just bought mine from here a few weeks ago.

That's actually a good budget to get a decent entry-level watch.

If you're into a sporty, yet classy look, I would check out dive watches. They're versatile, indestructible, and will look good with most outfits.

I was in the same situation as you, and was deciding between the Orient Mako http://amzn.to/rivjad or the classic Seiko SKX007 http://amzn.to/qbWT5Z. I ended up with the SKX007 because it was unique, and a long time favorite within the watch community.

You can get either one of those <$150 on eBay from trusted sellers. Can't get much more bang for your buck.

Nearly all new watches go for significantly less than MSRP. For example you can easily find a 30% off coupon for buying from the Orient site.

A quick search of the Orient Mako (much loved by /r/watches) yields the following:

Orient website - $285 ($200 with 30% coupon)

Amazon - $145

Sky Watches - $120

Yeah, also right now the Black Orient Mako w/ bracelet is used on Amazon for $66 as an option. Quite a good watch, and this vendor cycles through which used watches are on super sale ~every 30 minutes. Just to consider.

link

Everyone needs a $78k dollar watch. Sadly, at that price, it isn't even prime! D: But no batteries needed, powered by movement. Plus, you're saving 46% if you buy it from Amazon. What a steal! This is not a palindrome, just a super expensive watch.

Over 10k? Fancy!

First item.

Second item.

Third thing.

This watch is on sale. Read the reviews.

I didn't even know watches could cost this much, btw check out some of the reviews, they are hilarious: http://www.amazon.com/Zenith-96-0529-4035-Tourbillon-Titanium-Chronograph/dp/B001K3IXW8

What about this watch

With a bonus review

This thread reminded me of the Zenith watch reviews.

Sounds to me like you'll be after either a cyclocross/gravel grinder bike or a commuter. Both styles have clearance for wide 700c tires and (usually) mount points for racks and fenders, which are invaluable commuting accessories. The cyclocross/gravel bikes have drop (road style) bars, while the commuters have flat (mountain style) bars. Both are equally at home on pavement or gravel roads, but will struggle with true mountain biking.

Here are a bunch of new commuter bikes for ~$500:

• Kona Dew
  
  
• Trek 7.1 FX
  
  
• Scott Sub 40
  
  
• Giant Escape 2
  
  
• Specialized Sirrus
  
  
• Cannondale Quick 6
  
  
• GT Traffic 2.0
  
  
• Diamondback Insight 2
  
  Most of these can be had with better components for a few hundred more.
  
  Cyclocross/gravel bikes:
  
  
• Surly Cross-Check
  
  
• Surly Straggler
  
  
• Niner RLT 9
  
  
• Kona Jake/Jake the Snake
  
  
• Specialized Tricross Series
  
  
• Trek Crossrip Series
  
  Of all those, the one I'd be most likely to buy is the Straggler.
  
  Another thing I'd recommend investing in is clipless pedals. For rides of more than a few miles they make a huge difference. These are what I use on my commuter because they allow use with bike or street shoes.

SHIMANO PD-A530 SPD Dual Platform Bike Pedal

Almost 2 years ago, and not much wear and tear (except for some falls while learning to clip in and out LOL)

For first clipless pedals, I like the Shimano PD-A530s. They’re SPD so you can walk in the shoes easily, and have clipless on one side with flats on the other so you can ride in sneakers occasionally.

I have them on my hybrid so I can go with whatever shoes I’m wearing for commutes, rides with the kiddo, etc. I still have the option to go clipless on that bike if I want using the same shoes as my road bike and its PD-M520L pedals.

Shimano PD-A530 SPD Dual Platform Bike Pedal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7S41Ab03R9VC1

For shoes I have Shimano SH-CT71 which I like just fine.

Shimano 2015 Men's Recreational Cycling Shoes - SH-CT71L (Black - 41) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LWGSQ7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DW41AbV539CR4

This kind of setup is about $100, so it’s within your budget. I’m not sure what more you’d get for the extra money really..

i have some hybrid pedals. they are shimano spd and are flat on one side. my daily commute is about 1 mile, so it is really not worth putting the bike shoes on, but when i ride for pleasure i like to go 10-20 miles. then it is worth it.

My pedal setup.

pedals

shoes

I have a set of Shimano PD-A530 on my Salsa Vaya that I use daily for commuting (platform) and longer rides on the weekend (SPD).

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376967521&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+pd-a530

I really like them, they have not failed me after 2000 miles and are a solid feeling pedal. Even though they do not have the more 'spikey' surface on the platform side I have yet to have my feet slide off even in the wet. It may be a smidge out of your price range, but honestly it was for me as well, but I do not regret it one bit!

The big thing to keep in mind with dual pedals is will you be able to easily flip them to the side you need. With the A530s the SPD side is always on top in it's equilibrium position which means I don't have to look down to find the side I want. I just reach for the pedal with my foot and either clip in, or flip the back of it forward to get to the platform side.

Personally I think the design of the pedals you are looking at would make it really hard to determine which side of the pedal you are on. But, just like everything if you get used to it I'm sure it will work great. It all comes down to personal preference I guess!

Is this the one you're talking about, or do you mean the A530 or the M324? It looks to me like the M530 is dual sided clipless, but there's only one picture in Amazon, so I can't be sure.

I'm considering getting clipless pedals, but I also like riding to the grocery store or park and it doesn't make sense to change shoes.

I was going to say Esee is a good starting point. My personal favorite are Survive! knives. https://surviveknives.com/

They're just very hard to get.

From more mass-produced stuff on the lower end:

https://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-Combat-Bowie-Fixed/dp/B001IPKL7I/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=BK-9&qid=1565302535&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/KA-BAR-Becker-Campanion-Fixed-Blade/dp/B001N1DPDE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=BK-9&qid=1565302535&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8604-RAT-7-Knife-Tan/dp/B0013AW8D8/ref=sr_1_30?crid=18LHTWFQCW6Y3&keywords=rat+knife+ontario&qid=1565302569&s=gateway&sprefix=rat+knife%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-30

https://www.amazon.com/TOPS-Knives-Brothers-Bushcraft-Handle/dp/B004GAM1UC?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_9741493011

Higher end is a toss up between a lot of small batch and completely custom-made knives.

I go here for most of my knife info: https://www.bladeforums.com/

:)

Let's see...

http://www.fedtacticaldirect.com/Kershaw-Camp-10-1077_p_49809.html

Kershaw Camp. Great kukri style blade on a budget that performs excellently.

http://www.bladehq.com/item--Kershaw-Cryo-Spring-Assisted--11101

Kershaw Cryo. Hinderer design for a cheap price! Small blade, but feels big in the hand. The Cryo 2, the larger version, will be coming out soon.

http://www.amazon.com/Mora-Made-in-Sweden-511/dp/B004GAVOUU/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1372063610&sr=1-2&keywords=mora

http://www.amazon.com/Mora-Companion-Heavy-Duty-Knife/dp/B009NZVZ3E/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1372063610&sr=1-3&keywords=mora

Moras. 1095 carbon steel, strong and used to do a lot of good things in the woods. Very tough, very sharp, very cheap.

At higher prices, the BK2

http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-BK7-Combat-Utility/dp/B001IPMG8K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372063915&sr=8-2&keywords=bk2

http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-BK2-Campanion-Fixed/dp/B001N1DPDE


And of course, the tried and true classic Kabar

http://www.bladehq.com/item--Ka-Bar-Short-USA-FightingUtility--16358

A few to get you started, though, with knives, you generally get what you pay for. Generally, you'll want to figure out exactly what you want in knives, especially in how you use them to find the best deals and blades.


Collecting knives is an expensive habit that ends up going into 500 dollars knives and 1k customs. ;) Budget and collecting don't mix!

It's definitely enough for a nice knife, though you might want to go a bit higher for a great knife. The KaBar BK2 is actually designed with things like batoning (hammering the knife through wood as a kind of faux hatchet using another piece of wood against the blade of the knife as the hammer itself) or chopping. It's a bit over $60, currently available for $69 to be precise, but as long as you don't flat out abuse it (prying heavy things, for example) it'll serve you well and quite possibly for the rest of your natural life.

At a lower price, you can get the Condor Bushlore, which at $35 is a perfectly valid choice that will serve you well indeed.

For an even lower price yet, the Mora Heavy Companion is from one of those few cheaper knife companies that does incredible work. I wouldn't baton with it, honestly, but even if you did it'd probably hold up just fine.

At a more expensive range, the Ontario Rat-5 is an amazing bushcraft knife. The Fallkniven Pilot Survival Knife is also an amazing knife. The Benchmade Bone Collector is spectacular knife made in D2 tool steel, one of the better steels available at that price. Another amazing knife is the Spyderco Bushcraft made in O1 tool steel. Finally, the Benchmade 162 is a pretty amazing knife.

One thing you'll notice about all of these knives with the exception of the Pilot Survival knife and the BM 162 is that they're all carbon steel knives. Carbon steel is a lot tougher than stainless (with a few very, very rare exceptions I'd never trust a long knife to be stainless steel) with the trade off of being a lot more of a hassle to take care of, since it needs to be regularly cleaned and oiled.

If you want a fire starter, carry a magnesium fire starter. With the carbon steel knives, you can probably strike it against the back of the blade to create the sparks you'll want and if not (like with some of the coated ones) you'll be carrying the striker anyway.

For sharpening, you'll want to get a decent sharpening setup and start stropping. A couple of easy sharpening systems would be the superior Spyderco Sharpermaker (usually available on Amazon around the $50 mark) or the Lansky Sharpening system which while cheaper isn't as good. You could take the time to learn how to free hand it, but most casual users don't care that much because it takes a long time to get proficient at freehand sharpening. Stropping is running the blade against something like smooth leather (usually smooth leather, actually) to remove burrs along the blade of a knife made by use and sharpening and the restore a blade to a better edge without removing metal. Stropping allows for a level of sharpness unachievable by sharpening alone and extends a knife's lifetime by allowing sharpness to be achieved for longer without removing metal from the blade. To learn how to strop, watch videos on YouTube or check out guides from the sidebar of /r/knives.

Finally, if you want a whistle, just carry a whistle. If you want a mirror for signaling, carry a small signaling mirror or mirror polish the knife you buy (a process where you sand the blade with increasing grit level sandpaper until it shines like the sun and you can see yourself in the blade).

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

It really depends on what you want, size/price/use. Are you using it for wood processing or just general light use? Are you looking to spend under say $100? If you want something that can take anything you throw at it for a decent price check out this http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-BK2-Campanion-Fixed/dp/B001N1DPDE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=IR4DJ93EW5I7A&colid=3DVWN7LG1J27P

Here's a few:

Becker BK-2 carbon steel, decently sized though maybe big by your definition. This knife will take anything you throw at it, comes with a sheath.

The ESEE Izula is also pretty popular around here, definitely a lot smaller.

Can we get specifics on:

Carbon/Stainless?

Approx length?

Price range?

These will help us figure out what would be ideal.

EDIT: clarity

BK2 is a similar size and use, but with a better reputation for quality.

For $50, you can get a good knife from Glock, and that would leave you with enough money to get another one if you wanted.
YOu could also go with the Becker BK2
I also have good experiences with this

Though this may be a little smaller than what you're looking for, my favorite fixed blade right now is the Dajo Survivor

If I was facing the end of the world and had to have an absolutely bomb-proof knife for under $70, I'd choose the Becker BK-2 and never, ever look back. Thing's a dang tank.

so BK2 or BK7?

Anyone have experience between the two? For camping I want a big ass knife that can take a beating, and both look like they can do that. I have a kabar USMC. Do I need to buy another knife?

It's not an awful idea. I use a Teflon lube that I think works better. But lithium grease is better than nothing.

hand warmers

https://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Hand-Warmers-40-pairs/dp/B0007ZF4OA/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1483310241&sr=1-1&keywords=handwarmers

It will be cold as fuck, bundle up good and bring some of those hand warmers

he will likely catch a bit of harassment, but it shouldn't be all that bad.

parking will fill up early. it will be a lot of traffic, but imo its worse at the end of the game when leaving.

i dont know exactly where 333 is, but imo, this stadium has some of the best views from the upper levels compared to the old stadium especially.

who dey!

http://www.amazon.com/HeatMax-Hot-Hands-Handwarmer-Pairs/dp/B0007ZF4OA

They're heat packs. Commonly used by skiers and snowboarders on very cold days. I got a real kick out of seeing them used in OWL. Voila

Do you have the regular planet fitness membership or the black one?
http://www.planetfitness.com/membership-types

If you have the black one you're golden ;)

Other than that, get a good portable stove so you can make some food and boil water for tea or coffee.

Buy a jerrycan for water with a little tap on it, fill it up regularly, it also means you can wash yourself even if you don't have access to showers etc.

A small camping spade is good for number 2s in the woods :)

Get a mosquito net hammock, and maybe a cheap tent it means you can sleep outside or on campsites on hot nights.

Your biggest expense will be gas for the car.

Planet fitness is a good idea, but it's urban areas, I would do some (wild) camping more often.

I have no idea what campsites cost in the US per night, but if you do that every other night, or even once in 3 nights, it beats sleeping in a car park, and is cheaper than a hotel.

Have a look at some of the national parks, some of them have basic (cheap) camp grounds too. Campgrounds are really cool places to meet people, much better than a Walmart car park ;)

Shopping list:

Solar shower

Water carrier

Folding spade

Hammock

Cookware

Camping canister stoves are cheap, between $10 and $50
Cheap tent is around $50

Total expenses before hand, around $150-200 max.

I just went for the first items I found on amazon, there are probably cheaper or better products out there.

Source, I did a 6 month trip by bicycle through Europe, so not the same, but the basics are the same. You have the advantage of not being restricted by weight or size of items, which makes it cheaper.

If you need more ideas, packing tips or anything else, I'll gladly help ;)

Have fun, explore and enjoy, it's fun!

Maybe bring a camp shower. They roll up really small and they heat up great! https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000014865-5-Gallon-Solar-Shower/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=sr_1_2?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1500651092&sr=1-2&keywords=camp+shower

It is a bag that you fill with water and leave out in the sun. It's designed to heat the water pretty quickly, and it has a little nozzle and can be hung so you can take a hot shower... or at least be dripped on with hot water, anyways. I just used mine to heat water for my bucket bath.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000014865-5-Gallon-Solar-Shower/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481853223&sr=8-4&keywords=solar+shower

Unless you wanna pay whatever money it is for showers then i suggest you get one of these bad boys! http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000014865-5-Gallon-Solar-Shower/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451936963&sr=8-3&keywords=camping+shower Partner it with some bio degradable soap or whatever and you can shower at your camp. While it wont be the best it'll definitely help get you clean and feeling fresh.

Bring rain boots just in case. Last year's mud fest turned into a shoe graveyard and I ruined several shoes that I brought.

Also Walmart /camping stores have solar powered shower bags for real cheap (like under $20) bring a big jug of water and dedicate that jug solely to shower water, its not the cleanest feeling (if you don't have a shower tent you can wear a bathing suit and wash up outside of your car) but i certainly hope youre not going to a camping festival thinking you're going to be clean anyway, its definitely better than waiting in a long line and paying for a shower

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009PUT20/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1452773074&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=solar+powerd+showe+bag

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010GSU294/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1452773182&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=shower+tent&dpPl=1&dpID=41VMyC7Bm0L&ref=plSrch

*sorry about the links I'm on mobile

One of the things I like most about living here is not needing a car. There are certainly some places I avoid biking to/through, especially at night, out of concern for my safety. If I need to go there, I just use lyft, or get a ride from a friend.

Someone else mentioned that there are no bike lanes - this is not true. There are bike lanes on some roads, but not as many as I personally would like. That said, there are a lot of pretty narrow streets, especially in the quarter/marigny/bywater that simply don't have room for bike lanes.

One recommendation I would make is to get a bike airhorn for the moments when drivers aren't paying attention/don't care about bicyclists/aren't exactly sober, which seems to happen a lot here. This has saved me on quite a few occassions.

Wow... put a baby carrier on there... Just wow. That is so awesome. I want to get one and paint it black with yellow flames, and put a doll in it.

As for bells. You're doing it [wrong](http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC "This will put the fear of god into them.").

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

of limited utility.

This is the best option. If you really want to send the drivers a message, you could get an Airzound

Forget a bell. Get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC

Might I suggest this bike horn
I just bought one a couple weeks ago and it has already saved me multiple times. Super loud and makes people jam on their brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC


Yes, just recommended this elsewhere in the thread.

Excellent investment.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Have to use the frame pump(or floor pump at home) to refill though!

Here ya go. Loud as FUCK

These things are loud:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Delta-AirZound-Rechargeable-Bicycle-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC/

Best not to use them on pedestrians though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiJMuSBLxzg

Delta Cycle Delta Airzound Bike Horn

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x2qoyb38HAP1S

Not a train horn, but also not expensive: https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC?sa-no-redirect=1

My coworker has an air horn on his recumbent trike. It hooks up to a bottle and is refilled with a bike pump. It is loud. Something like this.

example video made me laugh :D

hmeeep

Alternatively, for those who are more interested in a bit of comfort I recommend the Luggable Loo. Combine that bad boy with a trash bag and some kitty litter and you're set!

Well we PC guys sometimes have to just make do with what we have on hand while we save up money for what we need, but, if you really want to get efficient I'd suggest one of these maybe on some sort of custom wooden platform. Desk height and all that.

From what I've read a lot of people use this https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480961358&sr=8-7&keywords=porta+potty

A five gallon bucket with a snap-on toilet seat is a good idea. Wag-Bags are a compostable liner for the bucket that comes with the neutralizing powder to treat about four uses before needing to be replaced.

Archived for your convenience

Snapshots:

1. This Post - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=http://www.reddit.com/r/MGTOW/comments/6xrdyq/a_list_of_some_offgrid_stuff_for_you_that_care/ "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), snew.github.io, archive.is
   
   
2. DOLSS 160watt 12volt Monocrystallin... - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HS7BPO2/ "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
   
   
3. 4 VMAX SLR155 Vmaxtanks AGM Deep Cy... - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDYUWYO/ "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
   
   
4. MC3 MC4 Solar Crimping Tool - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3PTXJS/ "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
   
   
5. 10 Pack MC4 Male Female Solar Panel... - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWO2GRE "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
   
   
6. 1000W MPPT Wind Solar Hybrid Contro... - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H0IQHK6/ "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
   
   
7. 100' Black bulk #10 Copper PV wire - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIXJF6G/ "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
   
   
8. 600W (12V / 24V) (50A / 25A) Wind T... - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGJH4O2/ "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
   
   
9. 6 Gallon Samson Stackers, Natural, ... - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011SWH5QA/ "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
   
   
10. Luggable Loo Portable 5 Gallon Toil... - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIAPXO/ "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
    
    
11. 8750 Max Starting/7000 Running Watt... - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.harborfreight.com/8750-max-starting7000-running-watts-13-hp-420cc-generator-epa-iii-with-gfci-outlet-protection-63085.html "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
    
    
12. 2 gal. Home and Garden Sprayer - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-tank-sprayer-95690.html "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
    
    
13. 7 Gallon Mixing Tub - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.harborfreight.com/7-gallon-mixing-tub-46936.html "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
    
    
14. One-Way-Trip Shipping Container - archive.org, [megalodon.jp*](http://megalodon.jp/pc/get_simple/decide?url=https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/20ft-one-trip-free-use-container_60150972093.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.65.3c93b0952oRj97 "could not auto-archive; click to resubmit it!"), archive.is
    
    ^(I am a bot.) ^([Info](/r/SnapshillBot) ^/ ^[Contact](/message/compose?to=\/r\/SnapshillBot))

There is nothing cheap or shitty about this lock and even the less intense locks are pretty damn solid and could easily be compared to locks twice their price.

This is a nice mini u lock

As someone who has gotten a bike stolen I cannot recommend this u-lock strong enough. I have a pretty expensive road bike, and using two of these has keep me safe ALL this semester. HIGHLY recommend. The only con is that these u locks are heavy--they're built like bricks though. Don't skimp out on the locks--you'll regret it. Also, remember to lock your wheel and frame to the bike stand, and to lock your back wheel to the frame. Sometimes they'll simply take your wheel so don't risk it!

good questions. this mini u-lock combined with a cable [to secure front wheel, too] is what is now used by most who are serious about securing their ride.

and these two rack designs are typically preferred in the u.s.:

new york city rack - nyc is making this their "city approved" rack after a thorough design contest. bikes can lean against it to be stable; can lock the front, rear, and frame easily; and it looks very clean from a design standpoint

typical "u" tube: these are found a lot and function very similar to the nyc rack. aesthetically they're not as nice but a lot cheaper and good function. you can see how the yellow bike can secure both wheels and the frame.

btw - what country?

Look into the Kryptonite Evo Mini or Fahgettaboutit mini U-locks. They're about as small and light as they come without compromising security or getting a lock designed for a chain.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1311793787&sr=8-2

In that case, nothing less than this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1304026133&sr=1-3

If it's a really nice bike people -will- strip the parts off it, in five minutes with some hex keys your shifters, rear derailleur, etc can be gone. In a Shimano component world I wouldn't lock any new model bike with better than Deore (MTB) or 105 (Road) components in public. For SRAM, not better than X7...

Naiveté.

Moved from a suburb (where I could have left the bike unlocked in the back of a truck for 2 hours without a worry in the world) to a city for work. Brought the Giant Escape 2 my Dad had given to me, but only had a cheap cable lock and hadn't been given access to my work's bike cage yet.

3rd day of training, my start group and I were headed to happy hour. I walked outside and the bike was gone from the rack outside the office.

I was able to look at the security footage; some dude literally walked up, cut the lock discreetly, and walked away like it was his.

Filed a police report, and went to happy hour. Then I bought the Escape 3 and a Kryptonite U-lock and didn't bring the bike to work until I had bike cage access.

I went all out and got the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit:

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000OZ9VLU

This lock is small, but JUST the right size to lock your bike, with no room for anything to get in to pry it. It's a very solid lock.

Mmm... you brush some krytox on those switch parts, then you rub some extreme fluoro on those stabilizers, you naughty typist.

Fluronated grease like this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002L5UL92?cache=97a37de83a21196249043fbbf214fbd1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1410415440&sr=8-8#ref=mp_s_a_1_8

ProTip: Google "Best [Classic Watch Name] Homage" and you're sure to find a thread or ten on PMWF or Watchuseek. Sometimes there are a bit old and the stock is gone, but here's a few I pulled out of a WUS thread.

• from Alpha and has a few choices for dial and complication colors. Fun to start with the Alpha and work your way to the Omega...har har. They have other takes on the theme too, and used to have a speedmaster (Alpha Speedy) but this is the closest I found to the Speedy currently (besides a recent listing for second-hand on WUS.
  
  
• Casio Edifice seems to be mentioned a lot.
  
  
• Graf Zeppelin whose pics look bad on the site but much better in other threads.
  
  
• Invicta Speedway (might be more of a Daytona homage)
  
  
• Slava / Cjiaba beater
  
  
• Another Seiko model SND367PC. and their Flightmaster series is close but a bit busier. And this one which is mentioned in other comments I think and is apparently import only.
  
  There's a Citizen AN5120-53E that's discontinued (I think) that's really the closest to a straight copy I've seen. If you can find one used or old-stock...

For sale is this discontinued Casio EF-503D-1AV. Great little speedmastard. $75 shipped within USA.

• Images/Proof: https://imgur.com/a/mp1H7
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/Casio-EF503D-1AV-Edifice-Stainless-Steel/dp/B003URWNOG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/Casio-EF503D-1AV-Edifice-Stainless-Steel/dp/B003URWNOG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I am new to the watch & reddit game. Read posts on reddit and went out and got the Casio EF503D-1AV for $39.99 (Super deal somehow, thanks camelcamelcamel) + Croc strap $12.71 & the MDV106-1AV for $40.99 with the NATO strap for $5.95. Two watches and two straps for $99.64. I love them both. The straps are from Clockwork Synergy straps using a 15% coupon. Thanks for the help.
Amazon links:
Diver: https://www.amazon.com/Casio-MDV106-1AV-Stainless-Steel-Watch/dp/B009KYJAJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467421208&sr=8-1&keywords=mdv106
Chrono: https://www.amazon.com/Casio-EF503D-1AV-Edifice-Stainless-Steel/dp/B003URWNOG/ref=sr_1_1?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1467421297&sr=1-1&nodeID=7141123011&keywords=ef503

Well, if it's a bracelet you're looking for...

Speedmaster inspired Casio Edifice.

Casio makes a very reasonable homage.

http://www.amazon.com/Casio-EF503D-1AV-Edifice-Stainless-Steel/dp/B003URWNOG

What you want is called a chronograph, which at least in the world of analog watches means a stopwatch right on the main dial, with a dedicated button to start and stop. Such a watch should fill your "quick access" requirement just fine.

Cheapest would probably be the Casio Edifice (example one two three) line of quartz chronos, but there are others, e.g. Timex Fly-Back (another [in white] (http://www.amazon.com/Timex-Intelligent-Fly-Back-Chronograph-Leather/dp/B0053EXKVE/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1368595494&sr=8-13&keywords=quartz+chrono) ) There are may other brands like Pulsar, Citizen, Festina or Bulova who offer cheap quartz chronos; even some Seikos go for under $150.

Now of course if you need more features from your stop watch, like multiple timers or lap-times you'll have to look into digital sports watches, there are also plenty of them around (g-Shock is recommended most of the time). Here I's recommend trying them out in a store because usually you won't find the description on how to access the timers on the web easily.

Check warehouse deals. It's 37.99 there ([http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B003URWNOG?shipPromoFilter=1])

Casio makes a similar watch under $100

Nice watch! I found the black dial version too if anyone is interested.

I like that these gifts are quality items and "general purpose", and by that I just mean that they are accessible to most people. Let's face it: those who want niche high end gear will be purchasing that themselves because they'll know exactly what they are looking for. This is the sort of stuff that almost anyone would be pleased with.

Here are a few random things off the top of my head I might add:
Mora Knife - $15.
Casio Pathfinder watch - $40
Light Tripod and phone mount $22 + $15 (added these because a lot of people use their phones as cameras out there
[Constellation Playing cards]( Night Sky Playing Cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/1591932424/) - $6
Anker 10,000 mah battery pack - $26
Chill-Its Cooling Towel - $8
Nite Ize S-Biner - $4

You're better off buying a Mora knife for that purpose.

$150 is plenty of budget for a good knife. This one is just slightly over that budget but will last you the rest of your life. It's kind of my dream survival knife.

The Fallkniven F1 is very popular as well and right in your price range.

Currently I use this knife which is also very good.

If you want to go a little less expensive still, Becker makes some good ones such as the Bk16. I know the Becker doesn't look anything like "hand made", but I have the BK2- I used paint remover to take the black coating off the blade, replaced the plastic handles with micarta and stained it to look more like wood, and built a leather sheath for it. It's a beautiful knife now. Too bad it's so goddamn heavy.

You could also go with something like the Mora bushcraft. I have that one also, very decent knife.

You could even just get a regular Mora or a Condor bushlore which are even more economical options.

A hatchet and a small knife are ideal, in my experience. A Mora Companion and a Fiskar's X7 will do darn near anything you need to do. Less than $50 together.

I prefer two different types of knives.
My EDC is a Kershaw Leek
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009VC9YA?pc_redir=1412830846&robot_redir=1

And my camp knife is a Mora.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ZAIXSC?cache=4ddea882c23be704873c7e83fe4a9622&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1413465404&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

They're both solid and the pair should still come in under budget.

Depends a lot on what your vision and current understanding of what "Bushcraft" is.

TL;DR: Start basic, check it's for you, be comfortable in a new learning journey.

The craft part of the word is important - it's about actually doing something, not just knowing and understanding the what and why. And certainly not about just possessing things and displaying them.

So - there are two aspects of this - you need to be comfortable "in the woods", and there's the creative aspect of doing and making "stuff" in that environment.

Being comfortable: It's important to be comfortable - otherwise the learning experience aspect is jeopardised. You'll see that some Bushcraft course providers have really minimal kit requirements on their courses, because they provide shelter, food and drink in order to get on with the particular skills they're teaching.

There's a really big marketing led "Leisure Camping" industry in the UK, with a lot of gear aimed at festival goers. If you're starting out on this journey, use all that to your advantage - get a basic tent (but one with a porch so you can sit outside, under cover, to make things and talk with others if you're at a communal event/course), sleeping bag, gas stove.

Pretty much everything else can - and I would suggest should - come from your normal, regular home kit. Perhaps the second-rate things that have been replaced, but not yet scrapped. If you lived with them once - you can do so again. This enables you to maintain home comforts and the security of being able to provide for particular personal necessities - diet, health, cultural etc. as a starting point, and then modify things as you learn more.


You'll find after a couple of outings why some things work "outside" and others just fail: Too heavy, too complicated, too dependent on other infrastructure after time (the gas stove for example).

Just make sure the basic Survival needs are met of:

// Protection / Water / Food / Fire / Navigation / Communication / First Aid, Medical, and Self Care / Illumination / Documentation and Information / Repair, Construction and Maintenance / Entertainment / Cash //

and you can support a good camping experience at the very least.

Turning to the craft - there's so much to observe, learn, understand and practice.

The activities you choose initially will reflect your existing abilities and interests, but some basic skills involve fire starting with just a spark or two - or an ember, careful precision woodworking with knife and small saw, and structure construction, that will likely require cordage and knowledge of knots.

So - a small starter kit specifically for the Craft:

• ferro-rod and scraper
  
• folding saw
  
• small fixed-blade knife - and the usual one suggested isn't too bad at all ... Be wary of UK knife law, especially if you are essentially "urban".
  
• big hank of paracord. At the beginning you don't need the more exotic types, and natural fiber alternatives may be something you come to appreciate later.
  
  
  EDIT: s/hunk/hank - the mind boggles as to a paracord "hunk". Perhaps best not to go there ...

When it comes to books, you should always wait until the first day of class so the professor goes over what you will need for the course. For some classes you might not even need a book at all! You will not be using the book very much if at all the first week of the quarter so you will be perfectly fine waiting until the first day or two to order your books! I recommend avoiding the bookstore because it tends to be overpriced. Amazon has much better deals if you want a new book. For used books, join the Textbooks for Sale Facebook page, which is part of the UC Davis groups on Facebook. Also, many people obtain their books in PDF format online or through others who have taken the course. While this is not legal, it does provide for a very cheap alternative to buying your books (but again, it is illegal in most cases unless the publisher has explicitly released the book online in PDF format free of charge!)

I live in West Village as well actually! If you are in a furnished apartment you will get a bed, desk, nightstand and dresser to yourself. You also get a TV stand, living room table, dining table, and a sofa included that you will share. I recommend coordinating with your housemates on what to bring. That is what I did and it is way better than bringing 4 sets of silverware, plates, etc. Is there anything specific you'd like to know about that you should bring? The bare minimum (computer, clothes, kitchen utensils) is what I brought and I am doing just fine!

As for bikes, I recommend a single speed or standard road bike for commuting. The commute from West Village to the middle of campus on bike is 5-7 minutes depending on how fast you biking.

If you are looking to spend under $300 then buy a nice, used road bike when you get to Davis. There is a Bikes for Sale page for UC Davis on Facebook that is regularly updated! Craigslist works fine too. If you are looking to spend $300 or more, ($300 to $500 can get you a good quality bike that will last you throughout college) I recommend checking out this website: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm

I personally ride a Single Speed and I love it! It has no gears so you don't need to worry about shifting. It is lightweight, fast, and reliable. I have the Windsor The Hour from BikesDirect (it was $300 when I got it). I recommend the Mercier Kilo TT if they have it in stock (it is extremely popular so it is hard to find in stock). Otherwise the Dawes SST AL and Windsor TheHour/Clockwork are great too!

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Edit: I almost forgot! Thanks for reminding me /u/nTranced. A good U-lock is a must in Davis. Bike theft isn't extremely common but it does happen from time to time. If you have a nice bike make sure it is locked up with a U-lock. I personally recommend this lock as it is a good combination of price and effectiveness: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405012899&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock

I bought this set as good decent lights, not the brightest, but enough to see in city/town conditions in the dead of night, probably okay if you are very rural;

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-360-Hotshot-2W-Light/dp/B00E1NQ696

As for helmets, more cost generally means lighter/more ventilation, depending on how much either of these means to you.

On locks, I'd suggest a set like this;

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1396539131&sr=1-4&keywords=kryptonite+lock+combo

it will allow you to lock the frame/rear wheel with the U, and the front wheel with the cable. It terms of safeguarding your bike, it's more like defensive driving; how, where, time of day, amount of people around, prevalence of bike theft, are bigger factors than the size of the lock.

I have a Monster cable lock now and just read the reviews on the brand for the first time. Definitely need to upgrade. I am thinking about something like this. U-locks are supposed to be great, and the cable would help keep the wheels safe.

Speaking of limited means, people will steal a bike that's only worth $100. $100 can be a lot to someone with limited means. If they lose their bike and have trouble getting into work, they're out even more.

That sounds obvious, but I'm getting somewhere with it. The argument of "they should protect their stuff better" falls flat when you start talking about people of limited means. A "decent" lock runs about $35-40. That's a lock you're going to be able to break quickly if you have an angle grinder, or even just a long enough pry bar. To get really good (note: not impenetrable) security, you're looking at about $100. And that lock doesn't even include a cable like the $40 one did, so you're spending even more to make sure you don't get a wheel stolen.

So suddenly the person on the $100 used bike has to spend somewhere between an additional $40-100 to have a hope that their means of transportation won't get stolen. That puts an even greater burden on people with limited means.

Anything mid-range is fine. Ultimately, unless you want to lug a 20lb chain around, any sort of U-Lock or mid-range chain lock is sufficient for temporary lock-ups.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496868581&sr=8-3&keywords=kryptonite+u-lock

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUCSV7C/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00PUCSV7C&pd_rd_r=FZPWAHQ8MTTBST4PJ2P0&pd_rd_w=ngc6h&pd_rd_wg=RU5PQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=C0QCXJ2M8NZ33CV8HY47&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop

I've used both of the above at places like Bradford Beach, restaurants downtown, and Bay View on pretty nice bikes without ever having a problem. Make sure you lock up your front wheel as well, I see a ton of pretty average bikes sitting there without front wheels cuz somebody just used the quick-release and walked off with it.

Hence why you by a U-lock. Expensive as locks go, but cheaper than a new bike.

I just bought one today. think this will do it?

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422560442&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+lock

I'll keep my eye out. That being said, might as well brush up on the bare minimums for keeping a bike safe.

Register your bikes. Multiple online services offer free registration and stickers. UCIPD and IPD both offer registration services. When bike thieves are busted, they could be in possession of your bike. If your bike isn't registered, then the cops aren't going to be able to contact you. Your bike will then be auctioned off by the cops. I think the proceeds go right back into the department. so i guess if you really like cops.. don't register your bike.

Keep your bike indoors whenever possible. Even hundred dollar U-locks can be sawed through eventually. A lock is ONLY a deterrent.

When it is not possible to put your bike inside, opt for a heavy chain lock OR a U-lock (Even better: a combination of the 2). Most cable locks are sold as accessory locks. If your lock was bought for less than 20 bucks, it's only for show. ex. 35 bucks. Onguard is also a pretty okay brand.

even though irvine is a low crime area, because of uci, irvine's going to always be a target for bike thieves. Combine life inexperience with laziness, and you'll get sitting ducks like 200+ dollar bikes being locked up with what functionally amounts to pieces of string.

I would return what you bought and buy this instead.

It's the same price for a better lock combo.

Tbh I got a set of cheap silicone lights from China off Amazon. If you forget to take them off and they get nicked, it’s not the end of the world. I got three pairs IIRC. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00FXO6MUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1524043742&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+lights&dpPl=1&dpID=41db7Haaa5L&ref=plSrch

For a lock, I bought this because it comes with a cable so you can also secure the front wheel of the bike (seen so many bikes with quick release wheels have had the front one nicked): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005YPK8G2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524043790&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+d+lock&dpPl=1&dpID=41mBBM7BkYL&ref=plSrch

Thanks! Any tips for where to sit/how to hold the bike on mass transit? I was successfully able to hold it out a little bit so that 2 people could sit on either side of me and nobody licked the flood trying to walk around the bike.

I read how to correctly lock up a bike, and bought this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK8G2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has good reviews so hopefully it'll work out.

I just ordered http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item
due to the good reviews. Will let you know how it goes.

i borrowed my uncle's Bikehand stand this weekend and I think I need to buy my own now. it's amazing.

Bikehand Bike Repair Stand - Home Portable Bicycle Mechanics Workstand - for Mountain Bikes and Road Bikes Maintenance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08PBDbXP44YEG

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

I made one of the pipe-clamp style ones a few years back. Not sure what plans I used, but this guy's youtube video shows more or less how I did it.

​

It was....okay. i mean, it worked. But to be honest, for the ~$30-40 I spent on the pipe clamp, pipe, fittings, etc and the time I put into it, I'd have been better off buying a cheap Amazon/ebay stand for $50-100. Which is what I eventually bought. But, that said, the DIY one did work.

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle Repair Rack Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nNB8kaNDX5Ewy

I bought this one from Amazon.
Venzo Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand
Wanted something with a small footprint when setup. So far it has been working great for me but most of the time I've been clamping it on the top tube of my hard tail which is also the balance point. So haven't tested it out clamping other things, like the the seat post.

that looks like the exact same stand I bought from amazon, rebranded as bikehand. It came with the tool tray. Works pretty well, and folds up easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3AHQXDOA1095F&dchild=1&keywords=bikehand+bike+repair+stand&qid=1574355588&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=bikehand%2Csporting%2C143&sr=1-4

As others have mentioned, it will depend on what kind of camping he likes to do and what he already owns, but here are some of my favorite pieces of gear I've picked up over the years:
This little guy is a pretty good rechargeable lantern/flashlight with magnets so you can stick it to stuff and a usb output so you can charge other things with it.

I've had one of these for YEARS and I just lost it the other day. There was $200 worth of gear in the pannier that fell off my bike and I'm more pissed about that cup than the rest of the gear combined. It looks like they made it a little taller, which I do not like, but he may. There are several other brands that make something similar in both steel or titanium. It's not just a cup though...it will slip perfectly over the bottom of a nalgene, you can cook directly on a stove or fire with it, and you can pair it with the smaller jetboil coffee press or the guts of a standard bodum press and turn it into a french press. It's the exact same diameter.
A Sawyer can be an AMAZING if you're going to be anywhere long enough to pack water in. The squeeze bag it comes with sucks, but it has standard bottle threads, so you can screw it into a 2-liter bottle with the bottom cut off and it turns it into a gravity filter. Just pour more river/lake water into the 2 liter every minute or so and it will keep pouring clean water into your bottles. Also, you notice the weird skinny part in the middle? It's exactly the width of duct tape. You can wrap several yards of it around there.
EDIT: forgot some words

Replace the $70 Katadyn filter with a $20 Sawyer filter.

Replace the $60 Petzl with a $20 Wowtac A2.

> I am also looking for a set of hiking poles.

The $30 Monoprice CF poles are considered the best/lightest for the money. You really don't want heavy poles.

> Do I need any other cookware?

Are you planning to actually cook or are you eating trail mix the entire time?

Get a Sawyer filter over the lifestraw. https://www.amazon.ca/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/


You don't have to suck water through, and it's rated for way more water.

Forgot to mention above, I do have a water filter, and was planning on filtering on-the-go as I was camping. Does that change anything?

Uhh.. Since nobody else is helping, I will give it my best shot. On a normal day, the average reccomended amount of water per person will be 64 oz., or .5 gallons. This is a rough estimate for an average person. If you are larger, pack more. If you are smaller, pack less. Depending on the heat, you may end up sweating alot of the water out.

I would reccomend no less than .75 Gallons per person per day.

As far as containers go, something like this would probably be best. I think that stores like walmart have a similar option....

To purify lake water you have several options. There are a multitude of water filters that backpackers use to make drinking water safe. /r/ backpacking raves about this one in particular for its low price, easy use, and low weight. It should filter out bacteria and other nasty things in water.

Alternatively, water purification tablets can be bought to do the same thing. These will not filter out sediment though. They only kill bacteria.

Since this is car camping and the weight/size of gear is not as big of a concern, simply overpacking on water will do no harm. Just keep track of how much you drink as a gauge for next time!

Are you dead set on a Geigerrig filter? They seem awfully expensive for something that will only last 50-100 gallons.

I'd get a sawyer mini - http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2

I'm going deep in to the woods. We are going to stay in awesome hammocks and we will be wrapped in fleece sleeping bags. We will also bring a water filtration system so we can drink from the spring rather than lugging water with us. After all, lugging a cooler or four full of beer and whiskey will be enough of a task for us.

I'm so excited that the weather is getting better that I have super duper camping on my mind. :)

For anyone thinking this is a good buy, please check out the Sawyer Mini. It may cost more, but the Lifestraw filters up to 1,000L. The Sawyer does 360,000L and also filters out more than the Lifestraw. The Sawyer also works with fittings and attachments for hydration bags meaning you can set it up to work as a gravity filter in addition to using it as a straw.

It's better than the the Lifestraw in every single way. I have used both and have no affiliation with either company.

You're welcome!

>Is there a good compass or gps you would reccomend?

I'm afraid I'm not a good authority on GPS. I use a DeLorme InReach which is a two-way communicator with GPS ability if tethered to a phone. It's overkill for someone starting out, I wouldn't recommend it unless you've got piles of money burning a hole in your pocket.

As for compasses, I carry a cheap Brunton baseplate compass. Similar to this Silva, but I don't go off trail or crosscountry. More importantly is that you know how to use one. Watch some youtube videos first, figure out if you need a compass that has sights, or if you live in a higher/lower latitude and need something to match your magnetic zone.

Hold off on the GPS and learn how to use a compass and map first. Then if you think it's necessary (or more convenient) step up to a GPS. Remember that maps and compasses don't need batteries.

>How much water is enough water?

General rule is 1 gallon/day, but it varies from person to person, terrain, temperature, etc. If you're in an area with decent water sources, get yourself a Sawyer Mini.

>When deciding where to go in back country do most people just choose a thing and then travel there and back and around or are there trails that people take and camp along?

Choosing a thing and traveling there is called "cross-country hiking" which means hiking off-trail and making your own path. This is allowed in some places and frowned upon at others, depends on how fragile/protected the terrain is. If you're going cross-country, you better be proficient at orienteering.

I'd wager the majority of people hike on trails and camp along the way at established camp sites.

I like this water filter for light weight packs.

Might want to look at [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419254970&sr=8-1&keywords=sawyer+mini).

Filters better and filters more:



| Lifestraw | Sawyer Mini
---|---|----
Membrane | 0.2 microns | 0.1 microns (2x better)
Capacity | 264 gallons | 100,000 gallons (378.8x better)
Bacteria | 6 LOG | 7 LOG (10x better)
Bacteria% | 99.9999% | 99.99999% (10x better)
Protozoa | 3 LOG | 6 LOG (1000x better)
Protozoa% | 99.9% | 99.9999% (1000x better)
Price | $19.20 | $19.97 or 4 for $67.51 ($16.88 each)

The mini is also smaller and comes with a 32 oz squeezable water pouch, 7" tube, syringe for cleaning (if it clogs)

>Attaches to included drinking pouch, standard disposable bottles (28 mm thread), hydration packs, or use the straw to drink directly from your water source

http://sawyer.com/products/sawyer-mini-filter/

Direct link to the single blue filter that's $18.69 w/ Prime shipping: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/?psc=1

Woot's still a better deal if you're ordering more than one, like OP said, since you only pay the extra $5 once.

I grew up in Louisiana and always had these at the ready in case another Katrina came by. Barebones and lightweight in case you need to get up and move.


Multitool - Something that's sturdy, offers plenty of options, but also is lightweight. If I got washed out, this would be one of the top things I'd want coming with me.

First Aid Kit - You just never know. Water can hide a lot of nasty stuff like sharp metal edges, broken glass, etc. The kit I've linked to also comes with a multitool.
Water Filtration System - Dehydration will get you before anything else. Southern heat combined with physical exertion takes a lot out of anyone and tiny filtration systems like this will take care of you without adding bulk.

Meal Replacement Bars - You'll ideally want a few days emergency food. I recommend meal replacement bars that are high in protein and fiber and no less than 500 calories. They'll provide decent nutrition and should make you feel satiated for at least 2-4 hours. I don't have a recommendation on this one because there are so many brands and flavors.
Hand Crank Lantern - A reliable source of light that you can crank on your own. Generally, I avoid using generators and the like. I'm paranoid about electricity after flooding occurs.

Whistle - Great for alerting people without tearing up your vocal chords. It's also very, very, very good to have in case animals that shouldn't come by are nearby.
Dust Mask - If your city floods, there's going to be a lot of crud that comes up from the sewers and a lot of things accumulating inside buildings. Save your lungs and your noses.
Portable Battery - I love this age of technology we're in. Charge this a few days before the storm hits and you'll be able to keep your phone charged for days if the power goes out.
Insect Repellant - The ample amount of still water after a hurricane is prime bug nesting. A little repellant goes a long way.
Paddle Your Own Canoe by Nick Offerman - Or any book really to help pass the time. This is a fantastic read though. :)

I thought you might like this a Mini Water Filter. Happy tax day

I remember reading that the Sawyer Filter is a much better product than the LifeStraw.

LifeStraw claims it can filter 1,000 liters. The Sawyer claims 100,000 gallons. Also the Sawyer filters protozoa much better (99.9999% vs 99.9%)

You could consider the BRS-3000T stove instead of the MicroRocket -- it's cheaper and lighter.

For the pot consider the SnowPeak Trek 700 -- I have one and it fits a canister well.

I have a bunch of them - MSR pocket rocket, Kovea Titanium stove, 2 cheap ones off Amazon. Only difference is the name brand ones feel more solid. If I could buy and try another, it would be the BRS stove, http://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U


I also use the Kovea LPG adaptor so I can use propane cans with these stoves when car camping: http://www.amazon.com/Kovea-LPG-Adaptor-Small-Silver/dp/B00CFPISZW


Get one without an igniter, as they all go bad sooner or later. Just bring a lighter to light the gas.

As a tip, just don't bring alcohol stove on the PCT. Fire bans are everywhere and you don't want to be that guy who sets the trail on fire.

Get the BRS-3000t and ~650ml titanium pot, like Toaks 650ml pot or Evernew Ultralight Deep pot.

More than likely you'll go stoveless at some point.

Honestly, if weight is priority, I would just grab a BRS stove. Test it a couple of times, and if there are issues, buy another.


I'm not keen on the waste of doing this, but I've got one and it has been working perfectly over the course of half a year or so. Just keep in mind that it won't perform as well in wind relative to your candidates. But boy is it tiny.

I know you wanted the rubberized handles, but that limits your options significantly. I'd say apply the rubber yourself with a tool handle dip.
BRS Stove - $16
Snow Peak Trek 900 - $45
Rustoleum Grip Dip $17.50

That leaves a solid $10. You can have them pick you up a canister or two!
I've been using both the BRS Stove and Snow Peak Trek 900 and they both work great. Now, if you have a windy situation, you may need to build a windscreen or get a MSR Pocket Rocket.

​

• For around $50 you could get a Toaks 700ml pot ($40, 2.3 oz) and a BRS stove ($15, 1oz) and drop about 1lb.
  
  
• For around $200 you could get a 20 degree HG Econ Burrow quilt and save 2.5lb (wide for ground sleeper).
  
  
• Your big 3 are heavy in general but as you stated you aren't really to invest heavily in that.
  
  
• I'd personally drop the solar panel and kindle and save another pound.
  
  
• I'd add bug spray if you do not have it. And I assume you are probably taking a phone.
  
  
• There are a few others areas like clothing that could be lighter, but if took the above suggestions you could drop 4.5 lbs for about $250

So is propane the best for weight right now besides alcohol? I love my white gas! Is this the stove you have for solo? https://www.amazon.ca/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U

I'm leaving for my solo wct in two days, Tuesday May 7!

The BRS is a cheap lightweight stove.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubens-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U

Your pack is going to have weight or you're going to suffer. In the Army, as a Medic I carried standard load: Body armor, helmet, 240 rounds of 5.56, M4, 9mm with 4 mags of ammo, and a 30 lb Aid Bag.
I know you won't be using all that stuff, but a 30lb pack isn't that heavy. You should be wearing some of the stuff you need.
Water: I strongly invest in two items. A Camelbak with at least a 3 liter bladder and a Sawyer Mini Filtration kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1466464554&sr=1-1&keywords=sawyer+mini+water+filter
6 within a mile? It's short sighted if you're going to stay in the area, but bugging out has the goal of getting to a further away safe location where you have your permanent setup. If you have no place to go, it's pointless in leaving unless where you live/are is more dangerous if you stay.
You'll need to learn many various ways to filter water you find. Some water cannot be cleaned, like stagnant water in ponds have higher amounts of germs in them. Moving water doesn't go bad; rivers and fast moving streams. However this water must still be purified, but has less chance of being infected. Any prepper needs to master water purification.
I suggest getting a map of the area you live; larger if your BoL can be found on the map. From there you can mark any water sources you find as well as paths from your house (Point A) to your BoL (Point B)

I stole the whole setup design from a friend, just a bladder and a filter.

https://www.amazon.com/Geigerrig-G2-070-0Z-p4-Hydration/dp/B00870DGDS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2?psc=1

The pump adds air to a separate compartment to pressurize the water reservoir and lets you fill cups/pots with water straight from the mouthpiece, without it you would have to carry the extra Sawyer squeeze bag. Only thing I would change is using a bigger sawyer filter, this one flows pretty slow (maybe buy the geigerrig filter instead). The geigerrig is a really awesome piece of equipment though; super easy to fill and really durable.

Water Filter
http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395805266&sr=8-3&keywords=sawyer+squeeze

this would be an easy, cheap upgrade and would save some ounces.

70.4 ounces for the half dome? REI Specs it at 92. I have the same tent, but am looking at upgrading to the quarter dome 1 person. When someone else is with, I can split up the weight for the half dome.

As some one else recommended, lose one of your knifes. For how much they're used, I don't find multi tools worth while and just carry a small folding blade.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2CXXD1Y7Z7KMA&coliid=I3S0PSH4ATHBEB&psc=1

This isn't an Amazon affiliate link or anything, I used to work for them and I never figured that out, this is the best portable filter money can buy and it's $21. It removes almost all of the bacteria and protozoa from water- though it doesn't removes viruses or pharmaceuticals.

>High performance filter fits in the palm of your hand, weighs 2 ounces and filters up to 100,000 gallons (30 times more than comparable filters)
>Attaches to included drinking pouch, standard disposable water bottles, hydration packs, or use the straw to drink directly from your water source
>Removes 7 log (99.99999%) of all bacteria and 6 log (99.9999%) of all protozoa (Each filter is certified for absolute microns; that means there is no pore size larger than 0.1 in size. This makes it nearly impossible for harmful bacteria, protozoa, or cysts like E. coli, Giardia, Vibrio cholerae and Salmonella typhi (which cause Cholera and Typhoid) to pass through the Sawyer Mini filter.)

I don't know too much about that backpack, so I can't comment, but you should be able to pickup a pack in that price range if you're just getting started.

water

A lifestraw will work, but essencially you need to go source to mouth, so if you need water for anything but drinking (i.e. for cooking) I don't know if the lifestraw will be best. Sure you can suck in, spit out, but there is a better solution: the sawyer mini is about the same price point: http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398890779&sr=8-1&keywords=sawyer+mini

meals

and that brings me to water for cooking. MREs are heavy, and while you won't be hiking far carrying that weight even for a short distance might not be the most fun (especially if you are saving money on your pack) - there a many commercially available freeze dried meals which are very light and you simply add boiling water to. Mountain house is the most common - http://www.amazon.com/MOUNTAIN-HOUSE-Beef-Stroganoff-4-80oz/dp/B0002YRNJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398890892&sr=8-1&keywords=mountain+house

besides mountain house there is backpackers pantry (better IMO):
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=backpackers%20pantry&sprefix=backpacke%2Caps

and finally if you want to try some of the best I recommend packit gourmet:
http://www.packitgourmet.com/CookInBagMeals.html

clothes

wool is good because it keeps it's insulation warmth when wet. wool can be expensive though. If the weather is going to be good I'd recommend a couple quick drying shirts (which are pretty affordable)
http://www.amazon.com/Russell-Athletic-Sleeve-Dri-Power-3X-Large/dp/B00719Y8HO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1398891200&sr=8-3&keywords=quick+dry+shirt

and be prepared to own the worlds best pair of underwear - buy two pair wear one, wash one in a river:
http://www.amazon.com/ExOfficio-Give-N-Go-Boxer-Brief-Medium/dp/B001M0MN02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398891283&sr=8-1&keywords=exofficio+boxer+briefs

tools

this is probably one of the first things that gets "over packed" what to you anticipate needing a tool for? On the hand saw if you will be collecting fire wood there is a very nice lightweight handsaw that is perfect for backpacking, the Sven Saw:
http://www.amazon.com/SVEN-SAW-Sven-Saw-21/dp/B002J900EQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398891413&sr=8-1&keywords=sven+saw

cookware

on cookware it all depends on what you'll be cooking. on a budget I'd recommend this cup:
http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Outdoors-Glacier-Stainless-Bottle/dp/B001LF3IB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398891523&sr=8-1&keywords=GSI+cup

and this stove:
http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition-silvery/dp/B00ENDRORM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398891563&sr=8-1&keywords=backpacking+stove

with that you'll be able to boil water for your freeze dried meals, make ramen, and you can also make hot drinks like tea.

this site has some good bags for the cheap.
Your priorities sound like they should be shelter, water,food.
Pick a bug out location. Go out into the woods you mentioned and maybe set up a campsite for the weekend. Maybe go back to the same site next weekend and practice some bushcraft skills and make your site better, practice building fire, hunting, things you'll be doing in a SHTF situation.
You'll need a means to treat water. I think I'm gonna be ordering a sawyer mini in the near future after reading some good reviews. But boiling water should be fine as long as it hasn't been tainted by chemicals.
Food kind of depends on how long you plan on bugging out for.

These are just a few quick ideas to help get the brain storm going and just to kinda throwing them out there. Pick up a few survival books, maybe hook up with someone that knows wild edibles in your area.

how do you define pure water?

don't water bottles become reusable bottles after yo drink them down?

why cant my tap water be filtered?

question 8, what type of water filter? the ones from question 7 where i had to decide which of two styles i like?

i use one of these. make something better and cheaper and i'll use that. http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_2?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1412024242&sr=1-2&keywords=water+filter

I have the katadyn Vario and i've used the MSR Sweetwater EX. They are both good. My favorite now is the cheap ($20) Sawyer squeeze filter. I use it with a Platypus bag as a gravity filter. The Vario and MSR weigh too much and there is much more maintenance. The sawyer squeeze is very popular. You don't need the Platypus bag, you can use the sawyer squeeze by itself.

sawyer squeeze

platypus big zip

Firstly for the sleeping bag what temperatures are you looking at needing it for? also have you considered the possibility of a quilt?

How much water depends on the availability of it where you're hiking, but generally 2-4L as a start is usually good. For purification I bring a Sawyer Mini with a 2L bag and aquamira as a backup.

I prefer baby wipes as they can be used for other things but make sure you get biodegradable ones as well

My stove is a MSR Pocket Rocket but as a cheaper option [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition-silvery/dp/B00ENDRORM/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1411302345&sr=1-2&keywords=msr+pocket+rocket) stove works well too. You also have the option of small alcohol stoves and other liquid fueled types.

It costs 37€ in Germany.... Wtf Amazon... :/

http://www.amazon.de/Sawyer-Wasserfilter-Wasseraufbereitung-Outdoor-Filter/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407264857&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=sawyermin

First Aid Kit - you might not need it ever, but you should always have it. All kits are different but there are fundamental items that should be carried, you can check out the NOLS Kits
and either buy one or for less, make your own that is custom to your needs and desires.

Tools - First, carry a knife that can cut decent size branches, again, you might not need it but its good to have. Second, I recommend getting a water filter such as a Sawyer mini or Katadyn Be Free as they are both lightweight and will probably decrease your pack weight if you hike near water. Third, Fire can be helpful in many situations but must be used carefully and with respect. If you live somewhere that allows it, a wood burning camp stove will be worth some warmth and also allow you to cook if you bring along a mess set. I personally use an MSR Pocket Rocket. As a day hiker, you might not use a stove often but it's not bad to have if you do longer hikes or are far from civilization so if that's the case, look into tablet stoves. generally, you should have a lighter or two just in case. You may also consider carrying a survival blanket just in case (as goes for most these objects).

The Front Pouch - So the idea behind having this pouch is to have things that you want quick access too on the trail, the most important of which is your map. Navigation is important when hiking so if you're not familiar with an area buy a map and bring a compass. I personally don't use a compass but I've learned how to navigate without one, however you should always have a map. You may also need to have a permit for some hiking areas and it's nice to have within reach, usually with your map. you may also like to have TP and a camp trowel in there so that it is not hard to find at the wrong moment. along with that, a trash bag of any kind should be carried. Finally, carry snacks in there so that you don't have to dig around to find them.

Summary - This is all advice from a Backpacker so there will be many things you don't need on every hike but could save your life if you get caught in a bad situation, many of the objects I recommend are the same. If I'm close to home or not going out too far on a day hike, I usually carry a Knife, Be Free Filter, Lighter/Stove (depending on mileage) an extra coat, and extra food, but each hike and hiker are different. You will eventually find a system that works well for you, but it's always good to carry things that make life on the trail easier and can get you through a night in the wild. With thought on my comment, you should also check out the Ten Essentials as they will almost always be worth their weight.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask!

I skimmed through your list, but am short on time. Some of my stuff overlaps with yours, but I'm a firm believer in redundancy. Shit gets lost or you loan it out or it gets up and walks away and then you have none. You'll notice it happens to us even when we're NOT in a natural disaster emergency situation.

I'm assuming your bug out bag is for more than 3 days. I hate the 3 day scenario.

I did CTRL-F. What I did not find was:

• tourniquet - I suggest two
  
• The blue tarps are big and bulky. One would be great on the ground under a tent, but I'd suggest a large poncho or thin nylon sheet with grommets for a "roof" under trees to keep the rain out, or snow. Maybe something fireproof?
  
• knife - specifically survival knife & pocket knife. Yeah, I saw your multi-tool...it's not a survival knife.
  
• Is your TP in a ziplock baggie? Is it separated into separate sections so it won't get lost. I suggest two rolls, just in case.
  
• Duct tape.
  
• 100' parachute cord - I saw you had 30', Personally, I like to have a lot more. You'll need a knife to cut and a lighter to burn the ends
  
• Lighters - You have one unopened set of Bic lighters, so if you lose it, you lose all of them. Maybe consider opening it and putting the in different locations so when you lose two, you still have three backup.
  
• Backup flashlight & extra Batteries - I suggest rechargeables and a solar rechargeable pack. I like to standardize all my electronics with the same type, like AA.
  
• Pen/paper - Yeah I saw you have it, but are they waterproof? I got some off Amazon (pads were in a pack of 5) where the paper pads were waterproof and tear proof. Pen was sposed to be waterproof as well.
  
• Boots - with appropriate socks (3 pair)
  
• Water purifier that's a little more robust than laying down in a creek bed and drinking through a straw. Maybe this one or this one along with your life straw. Do you have a collapsable container to hold water in? So you won't always have to go to the creek bed?
  
• Solar shower? You don't know how long your disaster might be and a shower does wonders for the body & mind.
  
• Towel, wash cloths. You always need to wash and dry your mess kit along with yourself and tools.
  
• Soap for washing mess kit and for yourself. Shampoo or bar shampoo, extra ziplock bags, larger nylon bags (like shopping bags) to carry shit that you come across, like firewood or other cans of food or rocks.
  
• Something for self defense or to chase wild dogs/coyotes away or even predators. Even if it's a high power sling shot with steel ball bearings, or a high power, full auto CO2 BB gun, anything to tell an aggressor that you're not just a sitting duck. Personally, I would NOT want to be hit with a full auto BB gun or even a steel ball from a sling shot. Don't make yourself an easy target, hence your knife.
  
• A back up boot knife. Always have two. One they can see, and one that's hidden.

If you want to get by cheap, pare the list down to essentials.
You need water, food, good shoes/boots, and shelter and to keep it light. Everything else is periphery.

The cheapest and lightest way to carry water is to use an empty quart milk jug or two with a rope on it. It's not as good as a camel back style bladder, but it's more reliable in my experience for fractions of pennies on the dollar.

I recommend a Lifestraw or a Sawyer filter for water purification. They cost about 20 bucks and they're really effective. Not necessarily essential for short trips, but it does a lot for peace of mind and you never know when bad stuff will happen. They don't filter out heavy metals or dissolved materials (ie anything <.1 microns).

REI has a really good info primer on sleeping bags

I wouldn't worry about poles for overnight stuff at all. That's for like weeks of constant hiking or alpine stuff. They can be useful and are helpful, but they can be passed by most of the time.

I get by with a rubberized army poncho and a blanket instead of a tent and bag. It's good enough to keep the rain off and a bit of body heat in, but it's not ideal and it's time consuming. I got it at a yard sale for two bucks. But for one night, it's good enough. A rain fly or tent foot print, or plain tarp is also effective. There are some pretty legit one person backpacking tents out there for about 70-100 bucks, I'll probably get one next. Not sure which brands are good though.

For food, I'd do the mountain house meals and hoist my garbage high and away from camp after wards, preferably in an air tight bag of some kind when you haul it out.

Normally I prefer to do something like pilot bread, PB, dried fruit, a big bag of spinach for the first day or two, green beans, nuts, and maybe some quality sausages and cucumbers, but the convenience of the MRE style foods is often appealing. army steel canteen cups are good for boiling stuff in, but the canteens are kinda useless.

A lighter, some matches, and wet fire packets are great.

Get a mid grade belt knife, like a buck or a k-bar or similar. It's a whole nother can of worms to discuss however. Just be careful as some buck knives are made in china, the ones made in idaho are always marked american made on the packaging.

Silva makes a good compass, a good topographic map, a small 10ths scale ruler (or any cheap one) are a good idea. Know your pace count and hwo to use these tools effectively. Compasses are pretty useful in foul weather or unfamiliar places, but navigational things aren't really essential.

I'd get some biodegradable toilet paper and read this.

That's about all I can think of right now, there's probably more to say and think about. Good luck! Park jobs are a ton of fun! Wish I was going with.

Lifestraw is good, but for the same amount of money you can get a Sawyer mini filter. http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412635189&sr=8-1&keywords=sawyer+mini
It seems to be the go-to backpacking filter, has 100,000 gallon guarantee on it, and a smaller micron filter at .01. I agree with 12pieces though, a filter is a good way to go.

I've rarely had people stop in at my campsite, we usually hang a clothes line out front so they know the site is taken.

We've swung by on our boats if we saw people at a site we wanted and asked when they planned on leaving.


For water, i usually go with big groups. Boiling would be a paint.

We bring two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-5-Gallon-Collapsible-Water-Carrier/dp/B000088O9Y/

picked up a hose to filter it through: https://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2

Then I just take the dirty 5 gallon bucket down to the water, fill it up, and then hang it from a tree and drain it into a clean water tote. The clean tote is used for filling nalgenes and such. Then if you just need a little water to brush your teeth grab it from the dirty bucket hose.


I dug through some photos and found a picture of my setup in the background.

http://imgur.com/a/jjFD2


as for the wind... Paddle slow, tie your gear into your canoe. We use Gear Ties by nite ize to secure most things.

I've paddled in some sketchy stuff.

Sawyer Mini water filter. 1 for $15.46, 2 for $29.47
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=twister_B06XVV54DF

I carry a Sawyer Mini Filter. Haven't had to use it, though.

Here is the desktop version of your link

Just an FYI, I spend a LOT of time in the woods and put a lot of research into which leatherman to buy. Im so very happy I let a guy at Le Baron talk me into buying the Victorinox SwissTool RS. Its locking mechanism is way better IMO, the selection of tools is a little better, its got a much higher quality feel...all around just a way better product.

Does he spend time in the backcountry? Id highly recommend a Sawyer Mini. Pretty much the best filter you can buy. Can throw it right in line on a camel pack too. Super cool.

Every few weeks a post emerges somewhere on Reddit talking about this amazing innovation called the LifeStraw, and inevitably someone chimes in saying the Sawyer Mini is objectively better for the same amount of money.

This time, I'll be that guy.

http://www.amazon.ca/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1417660764&sr=1-1&keywords=sawyer+mini

Awesome, I'd like to see it in action. I am looking at getting a Sawyer Mini for my trip.

So I want to think you’re going for “grey man” due to your backpack, but carrying around an AK might make you stand out a bit. You could try storing your rifle in one of those bags that come with folding chairs. It would help a little at least.

You have a lot of heavy stuff like people have already said. That backpack won’t hold up to much weight over distance. You shouldn’t ever cheap out on the one thing that holds all of your gear. I understand backpacks can get quite expensive, but it really is a must.

You should pack more cordage. That can be used for a million things.

Get you a smaller bottle of water and a water filter. (Sawyer Mini )

I’m sure everyone is talking about weight, so I won’t say much about that other than cans, pots, and pans are heavy.

I’d like to see what changes you make, so feel free to post again once you have updated it a bit! Good luck! Welcome to the club!

I'm newer to this, but have done a bunch of research and searched for deals, plus gone on several trips now, so I'll just throw out some options on a few things that have worked for me. Just my $0.02; take it for what it's worth.

Knife: I've have several Mora's. They get tons of recommendations. Plus they're small, light and capable. I've used them to split wood. The one with the firestarter in it is nice.

Water bottles: I use store-bought bottled-water ones. My Sawyer Mini water filter screws right onto them. Granted, that's not a useful option to put hot water in your Nalgene to warm your feet in your sleeping bag, so for cold weather that may not be a good option for you.

Light: Use a headlamp. Much lighter-weight and allows for hands-free.

Clothing: No cotton as others have said. Search for deals on Sierra Trading Post. Sign up for their emails. They'll send you 2-4 every day, but I've gotten a lot of nice stuff for low cost going that route. I put stuff in my cart I think I want, and STP will send you deals regularly. I click through the flyers and then look at the prices in my cart. When the stuff in my cart is a price I like, I buy the stuff then.

Do you want to cook with filtered water? If so, these systems are not great. I really like this Sawyer filter, it's very versatile.

I also like the Sawyer, it's ~$22.00 on Amazon. It's not the fastest filter, but it works pretty well.

Iodine is blegh. Takes a while to purify the water and leaves a taste.

instead get a
sawyer mini from amazon for 20 bucks.

Removes 99.99999% of all bacteria, up to 100,000 gallons.

Becker BK22 - This knife is a freakin beast. I've batoned 4in thick hardwood logs with this badboy with no problems and it still held its edge. And at 1/4 thick you could pry open a car door with it if needed.


Sawer Mini Water Filter


Mountain House Meals - Lightweight long storage and taste great.

Laplander Folding Saw

Good inexpensive water filter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FA2RLX2?pc_redir=1395985123&robot_redir=1

For a first aid kit just build your own; a few band aids, bandage, neosporin, ibprofin, anti diarrhea

For a water purifier I would go with the sawyer water filter. You can filter water into any bottle you want or use it like a straw. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FA2RLX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457621423&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sawyer

I have a straw filter in my bug out bag, but for home I keep this one around.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FA2RLX2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have some water purification tablets.

I honestly haven't tried any of the freeze dried food yet, need to do that! Canned food rotation is good, but we don't really eat much canned food regularly, so doesn't work too great for us. We try to eat as much fresh / local produce & meats as possible.

The life straw and aquamira are both good choices. However I found that the life straw was overly bulky and large for the job it completes. Also I had two of the aquamira carbon elements break on me. My suggestion is to go with the sawyer mini - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FA2RLX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417445721&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Or the sawyer squeeze- http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EHPVQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417445858&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

(Sorry I don't know how to condense these links.)

If you look at their weight vs. Filtering capacity it's almost unbelievable. They weigh just ounces and it's something like 100,000 gallons for the mini and 1,000,000 gallons for the squeeze. Plus walmart sells these so they are never to far away. Best $20 I ever spent!

It's actually a .1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FA2RLX2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

High-Vis version of this kit.

I'm not a fan of the Knife+Ferrocerium rod combos. The Mora Survival one specifically is more expensive than the counterparts purchased separately. I prefer purpose built strikers because trying to exercise mechanical force using something other than the business end of something sharp and pointy sounds like a recipe for injury. Plus, if you lose your knife you're fucked because now you don't have a striker.

Get some:

• Gobspark Armageddon
  
• Mora Companion Stainless in Orange
  
• Mora Companion Carbon Steel in Orange
  
• Bacho PG72 'Expert'
  
• Sawyer Mini
  
• Reflective tape, electrical tape and cordage from Walmart. You can get a standard colored Sawyer for 20$ at Walmart too while you're at it.
  
  Not pictured: the sharpener I keep with this kit. It's just a 6$ Arkansas stone I picked up at the local hardware store.

Someone here in r/ultralight said the BRS 3000 simmers well. I have one but have not tried it. However, for $16 it might be worth buying and trying out yourself.

Titanium mug and a mini gas burner? Then buy your own butane in Reykjavik.

The smallest 100g canister will be good for 15-20 cups of smoking hot coffee.

What about these?

https://www.amazon.com/BRS-Outdoor-Camping-Portable-Ultralight/dp/B00NNMF70U

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Ultralight-Portable-Backpacking-Ignition/dp/B00B4FY8YO/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1511994082&sr=1-3&keywords=backpacking+stove

Olicamp mug/pot $12, 4oz weight, 20oz capacity

BRS 3000T Burner $15, 25g. It really is an amazing little micro stove.

Jetboil Flash LID This lid fits the Olicamp mug/pot perfectly! $6, plus shipping. About 1oz

A 100g canister fits perfectly inside, plus the BRS and a bic. The jetboil lid fits securely and keeps everything together.

Ditch the canteen.. carry your water in 1L and/or 750ml smartwater/lifewater bottles. Seriously. It’s durable, and weighs significantly less.

Last year I picked up this stove. Light as all getout and works well.

I also purchased zelph's fancee feast stove, but have yet to try it out at high elevation. This guy swears by his custom one though.

In that case, I'd recommend going as light-weight as you can. A set like the one in the photo will be fine for car camping, but too heavy for backpacking, especially multi-day. Here's what I take when backpacking:

Toaks titanium 700ml pot

BRS ultralight gas stove

Toaks titanium folding spork

And a 4 or 8oz gas canister like this one, depending on how long I'll be going for. Don't get the gas canisters online though, get them at a camping or outdoors store, they'll be cheaper.

Honestly, that's all I need for solo backpacking. If you're backpacking with other people, you would maybe need a bigger pot (like 800 or 900ml), but I prefer to use the smaller one and make batches of food if need be. If I'm going car camping, I can bring more stuff as needed (cups, mugs, bowls, etc).

You don't need to get the exact items I have, but basically just ask for a simple, ideally ultralight gas canister stove, cooking pot (ideally titanium, not stainless steel), and a lightweight spork.

I also don't think you need tupperware unless you're car camping. When I backpack, I bring primarily dried foods that require not much cooking (asian style noodles, oatmeal, couscous, etc), and augment with some packaged tuna or chicken (in a bag, not a can) and spices. You can browse through /r/trailmeals for inspiration on cooking while camping.

Ever heard of the BRS 3000T?

I've had good luck with Toaks products. You can hold the handle without it being too hot, even with boiling water. This should fill your requirements:

https://www.toaksoutdoor.com/collections/pot95/products/pot-550-l

For a stove I use this popular item:

https://www.amazon.com/BRS-Outdoor-Camping-Portable-Ultralight/dp/B00NNMF70U

Super light, heats water up just fine.

Out of convenience, I usually use an artisan instant coffee like Voila.

If I really want actual coffee grounds, I’ll bring the grounds in a plastic bag and use a tea strainer. It works well. Just get water near boil, drop in tea strainer with grounds, lightly stir. This is the exact one I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K57B73/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UUA6BbJCMDBJN

As for a stove, I use this ridiculously light and cheap Chinese stove. Quantity is not great but it’s dirt cheap and I’ve never had one show up not functional. Some will leak gas for an instant when you screw the stove on (more than you’d expect), some don’t. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NNMF70U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2VA6BbGGSBA02

This ultralight canister stove has been making the rounds lately, I've been pretty impressed with it. http://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U

Hey, you can also make quite a bit of your own gear if you're feeling up to the challenge. Check out /r/myog for more information about that.

Fancy, fold up cook kits can run you $20 to $70 or more, plus fuel, but you can also make your own cook kits real easily from soda cans, cat food cans, and grease pots. You can get one from Walmart for $7, and an aluminum pot handle from any outdoors store for a couple of bucks. Here's a basic one for $4, but you can find them for $2, too. You can also use a folded bit of aluminum foil as a wind break around your stove.

The best part about those is not only are they light and cheap to replace, but your can stove and your aluminum handle should fit neatly inside your grease pot. Depending on how tall you made your windbreak, you might be able to fit it inside your pot, too. If not, it's just aluminum foil; it'll fold up.

It really depends on what your budget and your conditions are. You can grab a cheap, fairly light tent for $50 or $60. (If you want to go crazy cheap, there are $20 tents that you can set up between two trees or support with trekking poles.)

I wouldn't suggest depending on a cheap tent for the long term, but use them as something you can test out, beat up, and not be too heartbroken over. They're just the basics.

Woot.com often has sales on camping gear, including backpacks, light blankets, sleeping bags, and hammocks. Decent backpacking hammocks usually run about $15 to $25 online, don't stress about getting one that's really expensive and has a lot of features. They're pretty much all parachute hammocks. Worry about investing in the expensive stuff later.

My advice, though? Don't stress about your gear at first. Get some cheap starter gear, read about it, test it, make a plan. Drop on by /r/trailmeals and find some simple recipes that you like. Find a nice state park nearby and look at their maps. Find a camp site and see what's there: Do you have trees available for hammocks? Is there a fire pit already set up? Do you have wood available for fuel? (You probably won't need much more than your cook pot and utensils if your campsite has a firepit with a grill, for example.)

Make your plan and execute it. Let people know where you're going, and what you're up to. Invite a friend if you can. Put your comfy shoes on, toss your crap in a backpack, go out for a weekend, and test your gear. Get some experience with your new stuff, see what works for you and what doesn't. Learn where you want to focus if you want to shed weight, and check your reviews. Go to places like REI: they'll often let you see or set up any tent you're interested in, in advance, so you can check out how easy or how difficult it might be on the trail, in the dark. That last part's important. You can have the fanciest tent in the world, but it doesn't mean a hill of beans if you can't set it up in the dark. (Because at some point, you will be setting up your tent in the dark, in the rain, in some sort of adverse conditions. It happens. Be prepared.)

Practice with your gear, learn your gear. Learn your limits and your preferences.
Knowledge is easy to acquire, useful to have, and doesn't weigh anything, so pack a lot of it.

You're gonna want to get that experience on your cheap stuff, so you can learn and make mistakes without ruining some high-end piece of kit that's really gonna cost you. Get your experience in and add the expensive, fancier stuff as you go. I like to focus on pack, shelter, and shoes. They're going to be your main sources of weight and your big comfort items. Bad shoes and ill-fitting packs hurt. Insufficient shelters suck. Upgrading those early on, or starting with some mid-tier gear if you can afford it, is handy.

And if you decide that maybe this isn't for you, that's okay, too. You can back out without having dropped several thousand dollars on all the latest gear. It's easy to spend hundreds on fancy gear. Try to avoid falling into that trap.

It's probably ultralight heresy, but I often bring a cheap paperback book with me. Sure, it's sort of heavy for a luxury item that I don't need, and if it falls in a creek then my book is destroyed; I get that. However, for me, you can't beat hanging out in a comfy hammock under the trees with a good book. That serenity is why I go hiking and backpacking in the first place.

I also tell myself that if things ever go incredibly sour, a cheap book or a trail journal is also a good source of tinder and toilet paper. Not that I would do such things, but if I was ever stranded somewhere and I had to, the option is there. Similarly, you can signal other hikers or other people in your party if you have a trail journal - just pull out a page and leave a note for them.

Oh, and it's also wise to bring a couple of trash bags along with you. Get the big, kitchen sized ones.

They're great for:

| | | |
|:--:|:--:|:--:|
| holding trash | separating wet clothes | good laundry bags |
| dirty shoe mat | tent hole repair | emergency ponchos |
| emergency pack covers | food bag | extra warmth |

------

Oh, and remember the simple principles:

Pack it in, pack it out. - Any gear (or people) you bring, you're responsible for getting it (or them) back out.

Leave no trace. - You have a responsibility to leave your campsite as you found it, or better than you found it. Any trash you bring, you pack it right back out with you. If someone before you has been an asshole and has left a bunch of trash all over the campsite, try to clean it up, even if you can't pack it all out.

Hike your own hike. - This means that you can have all the excellent advice in the world, but how you do your hike is up to you. No one else can tell you how to live your life, and if you want to carry a little extra weight for a luxury item, or if you prefer a bit of kit that isn't quite in vogue this season, or if you can't afford the high-end, cuben fiber this or that, don't stress about it. You're out there to enjoy yourself, focus on that.

Be prepared. - This is the Boy Scout motto. Things will happen that you're not going to expect. Don't go overboard and don't get too crazy about it, but have a plan and know how to execute it. Learn the area you'll be at and know what sorts of conditions to expect. If you get hurt, know who you can call. If you're in a state or national park, those phone numbers are always on the freebie trail maps they provide - grab one at the ranger station or the trail head and keep it with you or keep a photo of it on your phone. Are you going to need extra batteries? Is your phone going to have service? If you can, sign up for a first aid course or a trail-specific first aid course. That's information you'll want to know if you ever need it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007ZF4OA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D-TtDbHKSV25B

If you live somewhere where this is a risk, why not stock these in your car? Probably a safer alternative to a space heater that you could sleep soundly with.

> Like can they go on facebook in picks and bans or draw in paint?

I think I've seen some players play OSU! as a warm-up once or twice, but I'm not sure if it was during LCS. I assume they have limited access to internet and the computer's software though.

> Also what is that squishy thing in their hands all the time?

They use it to keep their hands warm. As /u/CFThirty mentions, they are called "HotHands".

> And are those face cameras always on? or just when broadcasting?

It's another assumption I make, but I think they're always on. The LCS producer will probably tell what images are showed on stream.

> Can they hear the crowd or announcers?

Sometimes, because it is very hard to cancel out all sounds. The huge black things on their ears are meant to keep out the noise though.

> Is it illegal to remove their headsets?

Yep, unless the game is on pause and the referee needs to ask the player something. In that case communication is just easier by removing the headset ;-)

More information about all the LCS rules can be found here.

get some hand warmers maybe? I have some at my house for just that situation (doesn't happen a lot, just sometimes)

http://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Hand-Warmers-40-pairs/dp/B0007ZF4OA/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1457600572&sr=1-4&keywords=hand+warmers

These! Boot-specific versions exist and they stick onto your socks, but the hand ones work just as well and are easier to find. Plus they're usually bigger. Quality varies brand to brand.

I don't think it is necessary to give a gift card for a lowkey care package, but if you know they are struggling financially or they have a favorite grocery store or clothing shop then it sounds like a great idea. You can utilize things like Groupon, Amazon home services for cleaning and home repairs, BlueApron or equivalent food prep boxes. I have heard that many people like those type of subscription boxes.

My personal favorite care package goodies are shared below. I would wrap a pretty scarf around a small bundle of goodies. And to make it all pretty, I would pin artificial flowers and a thoughtful card to the front.

HotHands Hand Warmers

[Nature's Approach Aromatherapy Neck Wrap Herbal Pack, Celestial Indigo] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027VH7GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VuuYBbQY3GTYH)

Handcrafted Goat's Milk and Olive Oil Soap Bar with Attached Natural Organic Sea Sponge - Sweet Strawberry Scent

Tervis Sunflowers Tumbler

Power Thought Cards

But in terms of "adulting" you could give them Groupon vouchers for cooking classes or yoga/meditation. But if they are strapped for cash, I would definitely include a gift card to their local grocery store.

They're expensive but I absolutely love my Lake winter boots. Got them used on eBay about 5 years ago for $180 in excellent condition. For gloves I use Pearl Izumi lobster gloves.

I've always had cold hands and feet and sometimes even the above isn't enough. When it's really cold I put Hot Hand hand warmers in my gloves, against the palm/base of fingers, and in my boots on top of my toes. They are very toasty.

Tip: The Hot Hands last quite a while and are still useable after a ride. They heat up with air contact so when I finish my ride I put the Hot Hands in a plastic bag and squeeze out as much air as possible. They can't stay in the bag forever but will stay in limbo for a few days. I've used one pair on three different rides. Another trick is that they get hotter the more you shake the package so the first time I only shake it a bit. That way I can be sure they'll be good for another ride.

Write yourself a reminder of how to start a fire with the items within your car:

How to start a fire with your car battery

You know, in case you do not have a cigarette lighter working in your car.


It is REALLY. IMPORTANT. To stay dry. Get a slicker for each member of your family, as well as sturdy, water proof foot gear. If you can get a combo snow coat/water proof whatchmacallit, that is perfect. I personally take all items, and vacuum seal them in ziplock Space bags (including first aid, flashlights, flares, everything, to ensure they are protected from moisture before being placed into the duffle bag)

Handwarmers. A buttload of handwarmers. The can last up to 10 hours!


first aid kits, -40 degree sleeping bags, solar rechargeable/hand cranking latterns/flashlights, a simple manual on field survival (scavenging for food, simple traps, signaling for help, a small sum of money in case you need to purchase gas/towing/food, flares, freeze dried, high calorie foods (nuts work amazing))

Water. I am a bit miffed at the person that said he does not store water, but carries a water filter. ALWAYS. CARRY. WATER. A 24 pack of water bottles in the trunk with the tire is good, or a few liter bottles with some air space for expansion. Having a water filter does nothing if you do not have a source for water, or the means to melt snow/ice. Get a water filter as something supplementary. Pack a cheap multi tool and a good knife as well.

A fire starter (flint) and some simple kindling(a sandwich baggie of cotton balls) added tip--coat your cotton balls partially in vaseline, it will increase the flammability of the cotton, and help repel water.


Something I also include, is a pair of foot long 2x4 pieces. I name them the 'clackers'. Smacking 2x4's together is akin to a gun shot, and will get the attention of someone if you do the typical SOS morse code pattern. They also scare away wildlife. Although I always travel armed.

A typical portable jump starting battery
You can often find these little systems with ports which can charge your phone.

A tarp or tent in case your car is compromised and cannot provide adequate shelter

Maps, both local and national (in case you travel) and a compass.

A simple dig out kit for getting your car free (shovel, kitty litter, or a tin can and candle trick, ropes, tire chains, etc)

"Hot Hands" are my friend, and now maybe yours too.

https://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Hand-Warmers-Odorless-Activated/dp/B0007ZF4OA/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=hot+hands&qid=1573576370&sr=8-4

Do you guys have those hand warmers that you can stick inside your gloves that warm your hands?
http://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Hand-Warmers-40-pairs/dp/B0007ZF4OA/ref=sr_1_2?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1453521957&sr=1-2&keywords=hand+warmers

Doesn't matter - get some of these - they are cheap and they last for 10 hours. I have a pair in my socks right now.


http://www.amazon.com/HeatMax-Hot-Hands-Handwarmer-pairs/dp/B0007ZF4OA

I always make sure to pop 4 hand warmers in my pockets.

cheap on amazon - http://www.amazon.com/HeatMax-Hot-Hands-Handwarmer-pairs/dp/B0007ZF4OA

You're in luck!

tight underwear or the boxer briefs that run down your legs 6-8 inches preventing anything from falling out. buy an extra pack of hand warmers read the instructions on how to get them to warm reliably. Either preheat the urineluck in a microwave with the cap off in ten second increments (two should be max needed) or set it in a ziplock bag in a cup under hot water for five minutes to raise it up to temp. I let mine stay above temp and then drop it down to the right temp just outside the test clinic (two heaters will do this well) remove one heat pad and head in. Before I drop it in their cup I make sure its below 100 (some can measure initial too hotness) but above 90. Having it not be warm enough is the big risk.

If you get screwed like that a last ditch effort is to rub your thumb on your jeans until its real hot and then touch the temp strip till it hits 96 or so (risky)

Fuck Ronald Regan he was a B movie president and his workplace drug laws are a joke. A MAJORITY or near majority of people here in WA actually smoke pot regularly and fake it like this or in a similar fashion.

https://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Hand-Warmers-Odorless-Activated/dp/B0007ZF4OA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hot+hands+hand+warmers&psc=1&qid=1572403738&sprefix=hot+han&sr=8-3

Not as good as heated gear but way cheaper.

Something not much people do, but handwarmers really help and give me a sense of warmth in the cold!

Who need a hose when you can get one of these ?

We buy one of these $9 portable showers fill them up and throw them on top of our cars. It gets so hot the water is plenty warm and you don't have to wait in lines.

You could get (or build) something like this - https://smile.amazon.com/Coleman-2000014865-5-Gallon-Solar-Shower/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1509528443&sr=8-8&keywords=shower+bag

Use the hot water from your dispenser to fill up the bag and then use the bag to shower with.

If you still have cold water you could heat it on the stove and hang a camp shower in the shower stall. It's basically a water bag with a shower head under it, fill it with warm water and you have enough time for a very brief shower.

Right. The shower is the killer. Showers make the burn soooo much more tolerable, but logistically it doesn't scale well. Evaporator systems clearly have limited effectiveness. They can evaporate enough water for a small camp, but there's no system that effectively evaporates the shower water for 50 people. (if somebody else has a different experience, I'm always happy to be contradicted). But with 50 people the need to evaporate is greater.

Here are my two solutions to the problem:

1. Conserve on shower grey water. Instead of using a traditional gravity fed solar shower bag use a pump pressurized garden sprayer set on coarse mist. You will be amazed at how clean you can get with just a liter of water when its under pressure, and pumping it up tends to last half of the shower. Just re-pump and finish.
   
   
2. Make camp members responsible for hauling out their own grey water. If everybody takes out a few gallons of shower grey water with them, its really no burden at all. Many hands make something something. This has the double effect of encouraging conservation and engages your whole came in resource management and planning.

https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000014865-5-Gallon-Solar-Shower/dp/B0009PUT20

something like this


paired with this

and you're set for like 30 bucks

or you could just bring a black 5 gal bucket, fill it up in the morning and let it sit in the sun to warm up and just dunk a washcloth in there to wipe down and use wet wipes on the naughty bits. that would cost you like 4 dollars.

or, you could skip the tent part all together and just plop that bag on the roof of your car and spray yourself down in your underwear/swimsuit or naked if that's your thing...

edit: never tried the shower trailers, heard they aren't too bad though.

They're a little pricey, but a solar shower always did me well. They're like $15-$20 at dicks or target. It's a black vinyl bag with a hose that you fill with water and leave in the sun. It's not a perfect replacement, but for rinsing off the grungy bits, it beats 10 bucks a day


https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_bmwZDbPWFTDW8

http://www.amazon.com/O2COOL-NEW-Battery-Operated-Adapter/dp/B00ATSHMIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452120945&sr=8-1&keywords=o2+battery+fan

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000014865-5-Gallon-Solar-Shower/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452120957&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=sola+rshower

http://www.amazon.com/ZITRADES-metre-Brand-Electroluminescent-Wire/dp/B00ETTDXC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452120967&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=el+wire&psc=1

this one has worked well for us. it's a pain to dry out, but for $9, it does the trick. it's easy to fill up, put on top of your car, and wash from there. I don't know about the tent set up though.

https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000014865-5-Gallon-Solar-Shower/dp/B0009PUT20/ref=sr_1_3?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1526669441&sr=1-3&keywords=solar+shower

or one of these for under 10 bucks...... solarshower




hold 5 gallons, need no running vehicle (promise that thing will kill the battery after 2-3 uses, if not one with a weak batt, without the engine running)


feel free to church it up with a sponge or something like that.

These Solar Showers work fairly well and small enough to pack.

It's probably an Airzound.

Ya, i don't understand the "get off the road" mentality that people have. But if you want to have some fun with them (and also probably get your ass kicked in the process) bring one of these with you.

Get one of these next time.

1. Airzound. It mounts to your bars, a bottle holds the compressed air and goes in your wsterbottle cage. 115db horn. Can be purchased many places, but here is where I got it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_wfksDb98VW2V7
   
   
2. Yes, often the framerates, passing speeds, angle, water drops on the lense, etc can render the few frames of the plate being visible as unreadable. Letters can be harder to define after the fact. Usually in all the whole plate, but ibwas trying to read the trucks plate before the trailer passed. I was also gassed as I had just been sprinting. Note the speedometer... this is added afterwards using GPS data.
   Learn your phonetic alphabet as well. I'll typically call it out quick then phonetically "A, B, C; 1, 2, 3, 4... Alpha - Bravo - Charlie".
   
   
3. Yes, rear camera tells more of the story. How close was the car, how fast did they come up on you, how close were they, how long were they behind you?
   By mounting it rear facing off of your bars at an angle like mine is, it also shows perspective of close passes. It captures the rider (me), my bike, road position and the overtaking vehicles pisiton. Sometimes it can also capture the drivers face, but usually angle/glare dont yield good results on this.
   I like to have my 7 on my helmet so that if I look at someone, it looks where I do (like when I stopped to try to educate this gentleman.)
   
   
4. You didn't ask, but hey... I always try to control my temper and be respectful. My purpose is to attempt to educate the driver as to why I was riding like I was, and give some insight. Usually that fails, but ocassionslly I get through to someone. That makes it worth it.

This should solve your problem...

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Ugh. For as crappy as a lot of our cycling infrastructure is, I'm glad that bike lanes here in most U.S. cities are in the street. Cars don't randomly run into your lane or decide that the bike lane is the appropriate place to do qi gong exercises (WTF is wrong with you folks in Chinatown?!).

For dealing with people who are inappropriately in the bike lane, I have found this to be invaluable. Scares the hell out of people.

And an Airzound horn when a bell isn't loud enough. I started off with just an Airzound, but it scares the shit out of pedestrians and isn't really appropriate if you only want to announce your presence, so I bought this bell for $9 and save my horn for people with headphones, people blocking the path who don't react to the bell, and cars. The bell is very elegant, and most people seem to recognize two quick bell rings as a bicycle approaching. Yelling is still better than risking an accident by silently zooming by a pedestrian or cyclist who has no idea you're coming, but my rides are more pleasant with the bell.

> Like the "protected" bike lanes on 2ndor Roosevelt.

I haven't been on Roosevelt, but that 2nd Ave bike lane is a disaster. I only ride on 2nd for about 3 blocks, but have nearly been run over at least 10 times in the last 2 years by people turning left through the lane to enter a parking garage. They simply don't expect there to be a cyclist on their left so they don't even look. Then there's also people who ignore the red arrow at lights and try to turn left anyway when cyclists have the green light to go straight. This is what the Airzound was invented for.

For the last few months, I can't even use the bike lane anyway, since it's closed for construction at 2nd and Pine. So I usually ride in either the right lane or bus lane.

> Same here LOL I was like, did they mean the bikers ringing the bell? That can’t be too loud can it?

https://www.amazon.ca/Delta-Cycle-AH1000-Airzound-Bike/dp/B000ACAMJC/

^^^^^bike ^^^^^airhorns ^^^^^actually ^^^^^exist, ^^^^^just ^^^^^sayin' ^^^^^;-)

> Buy a loud cycle horn.

Airzound!!!

Try an AirZound. They're refillable too.

Though they don't fit on all handlebars so that may be a factor.

Went a whole year of being car-free since the car was broken and didn't get around to getting it fixed. Got it fixed and now it's broken again. This time going car free until I can afford to buy a new one.

Must have equipment:
Fenders
Lights (front and rear), especially with winter and early dark coming in.
A trailer. I use a schwinn 2-kid trailer with the kid part pulled down off the cross-bar.
Rain Gear. Here in the Pacific Northwest, this can make or break your car-free experiment. It's much easier to get on the bike in a rainy day when you have it.
My Delta Airzound air horn. Nothing makes cars look faster than when you honk back!

Other than those, i switch panniers and backpacks depending on what I need at the time. I have foldable baskets, small bags, big bags, waterproof bags, trunk bags, handlebar bags, front rack, rear rack... You kind of end up collecting gear after a while of just being a bike commuter.

>zoom past you and cut you off taking a right

Yep. The infamous "right-hook".

>Get a loud horn

Air Zound, yo.

I'm just going to leave this here:

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

I've had some close calls. You can see in the stats that isn't particularly safe but I enjoy it and do my best. I got one of these for my bike and it helps to blast cabs and j walkers. much more effective than a bell, which I still use for passing etc

Surely this is a better option, given that it doesn't require batteries.

> 80db at 50cm. That's loud!!!

I don't think that the person writing that sentence has any idea how loudness is measured... because that's not loud. Usually dB is measured at 1m for a start, so that horn is only 74dB at 1m. A bit louder than a vacuum cleaner, but not necessarily as loud as normal traffic, if you believe this scale.

For comparison, this one is 115dB-

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC


That's loud!!! But the sounds are not as cheeky, I'll admit. :)

Keep fighting the good fight. It might be a bit dickish if the lane wasn't so clearly marked.

For other crusaders, How about an Airzound? I've got one, and it is shit your pants loud.

An Airzound Bike Horn

Can't believe no one mentioned the airzound. $30 bucks. Basically a metal container that you fill with air (using a bike pump) and you have a air horn attached to the other end. Its the size of a water bottle and comes with mounts so its easy to install on a bike.Saved my ass many times and I've had it for years. On the horn itself, there's a pressure modulator so you can adjust how loud you want it to be. It's much louder than a car horn so if you're using it around people I suggest lowering it a bit, but it's perfect for places like the Brooklyn Bridge where people get in the path and biking up 8th Ave.

Edit: it's actually on sale so I would jump on this offer if I didn't have one already.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ACAMJC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483767526&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airzound&dpPl=1&dpID=4142OBsQHPL&ref=plSrch


I can post pics of my setup if anyone's interested.

https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO

or, pound away and keep one of these next to your desk

Pooping in the woods tho is so liberating! There are some portable toilet options and they make little pop up tent style bathrooms that you can also use to shower in.

Tent - WolfWise Pop-up Shower Tent Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AT3T0GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5WXmDbGHCSTYH

Toilet - Reliance Products Luggable Loo Portable 5 Gallon Toilet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIAPXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aYXmDbGPG18AJ

While trailer might be super comfy, you might end up limited in exploring back roads while you are out.

They make seats for buckets too btw. Or you can buy the full kit.

Reliance Products Luggable Loo Portable 5 Gallon Toilet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIAPXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9Sw8CbA26Q8J0

A very important thing people forget about when prepping. Especially if you are hunkered down/bugging in, you're going to need a place to do your business. Multiply that if you have family.

I got this, although I'm sure there are plenty others just as good. A rigged up 5 gallon bucket could probably do the trick, as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIAPXO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Amazon has these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIAPXO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3N1J8PBTIO1EB&coliid=IXAS6L8D5HLVJ

Terrible idea, unless your idea of a good idea is getting diarrhea spatters all over your tires, legs and shoes.

A 5 gallon bucket with a toilet seat lid and a biodegradable plastic liner would be a much better idea for a road trip.

I always bring my own toilet. I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368218018&sr=8-1&keywords=luggable+loo

Nothing is nicer than to use the bathroom at your own camp. We have a huge tent, so we can set up the bathroom in there. We've also brought a pop-up shower and used it to set up a bathroom, kinda like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Changing-Camping-Privacy-Outdoor/dp/B007ZJ99HE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368218091&sr=8-1&keywords=pop+up+camping+shower