Best steering & suspension tools according to redditors
We found 75 Reddit comments discussing the best steering & suspension tools. We ranked the 48 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 75 Reddit comments discussing the best steering & suspension tools. We ranked the 48 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Definitely not an electrical hole punch set. Automotive wheel bearing removal and install set. https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-23-Piece-Adapters-Replacement-Installer/dp/B01FLVOAZI/ref=asc_df_B01FLVOAZI/?
It doesn't like this tool would work for your situation, but some sort of [Ball Joint Separator] (https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519659123&sr=8-3&keywords=ball+joint+separator) might be worth picking up.
This is the Shankly set, but it shows as currently unavailable. I’m sure other people make a similar set though.
Shankly 3 Piece Ball Joint Removal Tool and Ball Joint Separator Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718SQWRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JMSDDbAN4P16M
This is the other set (looks like the price has gone up a good bit since I bought it)
UTOOL Quick Change Interchangeable Ball Joint Remover Puller Tool Set Tie Rod End Separator Remover Puller 20-30mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHH1RQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4QSDDb7ZER9YX
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48300-Push-Rod-Remover/dp/B00DBMLY8G
It could still be the intake gasket. Your mechanic does not under stand basic science or cars for that matter. When you car cools off the pressure in the cooling system drops and creates a suction so it pulls in oil from the intake gasket if its bad.
I just replaced a intake gasket on a customers car and he had no signs of coolant in the oil (I bet it may have shown up on an oil analysis, but not the naked eye). After changing no oil showing up in the coolant anymore.
Also make sure to buy this tool it will save a lot of time...
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48300-Push-Rod-Remover/dp/B00DBMLY8G
Lisle 48300
Amazon link
This has been around for awhile. Mercedes have the same setup in inner hub seals that have to be pressed on. You find out which ones pretty quick when you tap them in with a hammer instead of pressing them
The screw press I use gets the job done fast, works almost every time and doesn't damage anything so doing it with a socket, hammer, and vice to start and then escalating when it doesn't work just wastes time. This is the current version of what I use. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-U-Joint-Anchor-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY Wait until you get a cap that is seized on the joint, even if you pop it out of the yoke it won't come off, even when heated. Then you have to cut the joint or cap to get it out.
You're going to need some real tools - like a ratchet set, including some sort of torque wrench.
There's no way you're getting an axle loose with just an L Allen key alone. You'd need a cheater pipe. And then you still have no proper way to torque it when you re-install it.
You can get a 22mm Allen socket for $8 US. It's not the best one ever, but it'll work just fine for home gamer duty.
Various companies also make 4 size allens for axle removals. They also need a ratchet to work - but usually fit 17, 19, 22, and 24 mm allens
If you're running a tighter budget - look into beam style torque wrenches. They cost a fraction of clicker type torque wrenches and do the job just fine. Their down side is being a bit awkward to use.
If you have a puller the right size, use that. If not, some auto parts stores will loan tools for this kind of thing. I have one of these, works great.
OEMTOOLS Tools 27308 Ball Joint... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7TJ61S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My ball joint "claw" tool...
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1479163236&sr=1-3
It makes popping them out so much easier. After I failed to get the ball joint out on my old Grand Prix I went out and bought one of these things and got it out within 5 mins of opening the package.
The ballpoints are notoriously difficult to separate, you'll want to get one of these: GearWrench 3916D Universal Ball Joint Separator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gcZ5xb1FBKMBA
OTC is good stuff. Just make sure it has the cups for your application. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-U-Joint-Anchor-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382125556&sr=8-1&keywords=ball+joint+press
We started using these:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010
It's labeled as a ball joint tool but it'll also pop out tie rod ends. Makes life far, far easier.
moog camber adj bolts they work well
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59Z68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Magnetic sensor tester?
https://www.amazon.com/ATE-760130-Magnetic-Sensor-Wheels/dp/B003VXPHW4
Some gift ideas (disclaimer, it's my website): http://truckdrivergifts.com
Personally the gifts I would love most to receive would be either a Sta-Rat Tandem Release Tool or Audible.com gift certificate.
A strut spreader would be nice to help with the job
https://www.amazon.com/ITEQ-Suspension-Spreader-Dismantle-Volkswagen/dp/B07KK8ZQD1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=strut+spreader&qid=1574871653&sr=8-3
Yup something like this Abn Drum Brake Shoe Return Spring Install & Remove Dual-End Pliers Installer & Remover Tool for Removal and Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P5DZCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8Fv3DbX3F4703
Oh wow thanks for letting me know!!
Are these ok?
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Motorcycle-Hardened-Protector-Sheaths/dp/B073RQB3H2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=kenway+tire+irons&qid=1562799310&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
I need to use Amazon bc shipping is fast and I need this scooter for work!
I used this MacPherson strut compressor from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNPVJC3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LGELBb68WK46T
It made the job much, much easier. The hardest part was getting the strut back in the car. Aligning it with the top can be difficult.
Use the two big silver adapters: one on the top hat, and one as close to the bottom as possible. It'll compress to remove all of the tension.
Orion Motor Tech Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press & U Joint Removal Separator Tool Kit with 4x4 Adapters, for Most 2WD and 4WD Cars and Light Trucks https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N7CO50E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mydXCbM2DHBB7
2015 Scion TC with a clutch 100% smoked at ~30k last month. I did it for about $800, local shops in the area wanted about $1200. Should have thought a few more moments about it, but I needed a little money. Took about a week and a half in the guys garage on weeknights. Parts were $75 flywheel, $150 clutch kit, $30 MTF oil, and $30 for two axle nuts. However, there are a lot of tools you need.
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You had to remove the battery, remove intake, loosen three motor mounts, disconnect the ball joints, drop the lower control arms, remove the sway bar, pull both axles, drop the steering rack...just so I could drop the sub frame, support the transmission, then drain the transmission fluid, and drop the three motor mounts I loosened. Then, you can go ahead and pull the transmission to take the clutch apart. Job took 11 hours...with about 9 hours in delays, and gave him a free oil change (labor) since I had to pull everything else apart anyway. The hardest part was lining everything back together again.
The threads on the axles weren't great, so I had to re-thread both axles with a re-threading die I borrowed from a machine shop at my old work. However, apparently I can do clutch jobs on 98% of all vehicles now. Got one of the hardest out the way. It all depends on the vehicle, it can be a $300 labor job to a $1000 labor job.
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Budget double the time you think it will take for your first time, make sure you torque the most important bolts...flywheel bolts, clutch plate, axle nuts...to spec with a torque wrench (ideally all bolts torqued), use appropriate strength loctite, and have the correct tool to pop the axles out of the tranny. With the right tool, it literally takes 30 seconds with a shim and a hammer to pull an axle. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27305-Axle-Popper-Fork/dp/B01N5SP368
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Looks like this one
RamPro Ball Joint Press Service Repair Kit, Removal Tool Set, 2/4 Wheel Drive Vehicle Remover Installer Adapters – Also Used to Remove/Install Brake Anchor Pins and U-Joints (10 Pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT5HA0X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xkXXzbAC362ZX
That's correct- to replace the studs, you must replace pull the hub out of the bearing.
UNLESS, there is a spot where you can cut and bend the brake shield out of the way so you could bash the old lugs out and new ones in. Ericthecarguy has a video where he does this exact thing--he replaces lugs without pulling the hub.
I use this wheel bearing press. It makes easy work of almost any job without removing the whole knuckle.
OrionMotorTech 23-Piece FWD Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapters Puller Press Replacement Installer Removal Tool Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLVOAZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wf3-BbMHRGCRQ
At least it's not masquerading as a precision tool.
http://www.amazon.com/Fowler-72-520-757-Economy-Brake-Rotor/dp/B000R6VTZC
So I replaced one of my knuckles years ago and I suspected something wasn't quite perfect. I usually replace pads or rotors separately as they wear out so the issue showing itself in the form of uneven thickness wearing of the rotors (commonly mislabeled as "warping"), took a long time to appear if at all. But this summer I went on a road trip and put brand new rotors and pads on at the same time, stretching the calipers/slides to their max. By the end of the trip, the front right had noticeable dust buildup and there was steering shake under braking.
I've been accumulating tools for a while so it was time to tackle this without replacing the hub.
Tools I used:
Most of my purchases were through Amazon Warehouse Deals and I paid 50% - 70% list price, some times with the help of camelcamelcamel.com
this tool made me a lot of money back when GM 3.1 engines were coming in every week for leaking intake manifold gaskets. It lets you remove and install the push rods without loosening all of the rocker arm nuts. That easily saves about an hour on the job, which really adds up over time.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48300-Push-Rod-Remover/dp/B00DBMLY8G
Reconnect the control arm to the frame, spray penetrating oil into the joint, apply downward pressure on the arm with a large prybar, and hit the side of the joint (on the steering knuckle) with a large hammer. It's important that you hold as much downward pressure as possible while hitting it with a hammer.
Or buy something like this, though you will probably still need to reconnect the other side of the arm.
Buy a ball joint separator and save yourself some headaches....
[OTC AMAZON BALL JOINT SEPARATOR] (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369198064&sr=8-1&keywords=ball+joint+separator)
Tighten it up real good. Take a hammer and tap the ball joint. BAM! It pops off. Kind of scary at first but it does the job nicely.
Btw my ball joint was a bitch to remove as it had some salt corrosion in it due to driving in snow. And compared to cheapies i've tried, this has a large opening so it fit nicely inside of my largest control arm.
THIS TOOL WILL NOT TEAR YOUR BOOTS!
Well assuming your power steering pump and gear box are working correctly then hell yeah an alignment will do that. Even if those aren’t working it should center up at the very least.
Drag link and center link are pretty easy to do if your going to tackles those, a ball joint tool similar to this can be rented for free at autozone. It makes life way easy.
https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=asc_df_B003YVWHOE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241975700326&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14180979640211089708&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031442&hvtargid=pla-382391363739&psc=1
If you end up doing this lemme know how it worked out!
I used to use something like this if I wasn't replacing the joint https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KNCRDZJJ1QFV8D70J70W if I was replacing it I used a pickle fork and an air hammer.
As a mechanic, we use something similar to test which side of wheel bearings has the speed sensor pickup.