Best surge protectors according to redditors

We found 796 Reddit comments discussing the best surge protectors. We ranked the 250 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Surge Protectors:

u/nalybuites · 123 pointsr/cableporn

Here's the composition of the rack:

  • NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  • TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  • TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  • TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  • Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  • Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  • Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  • 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  • Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.

    Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:

  • Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  • 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  • Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  • Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  • Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  • Extra rack screws and washers
  • J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.

    Useful things I learned:

  • I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  • I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  • I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  • Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  • Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  • Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  • Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  • Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.
u/CurrentEmployer · 99 pointsr/buildapc

A surge protector is NOT a extension cord. If you every work in construction/wood working/work with power tools you will know the necessity to have extension cords.

extensions cords are tend to have a schema of being yellow or orange.

THATS an extension cords.

These are surge protectors.

And most extensions cords as not known as surge protectors. They are different.

u/pattymcfly · 43 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I have a 3:1 grounded electrical outlet adapter I bought for $3 at a hardware store a few years ago that I keep in my laptop bag.

It is super convenient when using public transportation. All you have to do is ask people to share their outlet.

And on that note: holy hell I need one of these.

u/Endulos · 29 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

I have one of these and it's great.

I have my NES and SNES plugged into the same strip because of that.

u/DGAzr · 21 pointsr/homeassistant

The answer is: maybe

There's virtually no surge suppressor that will save you from a direct lightning strike, but they will go a long way to protect sensitive equipment from the kinds of surges that course through power grids during really bad storms. They're not expensive, even professionally installed - I had two of these ( ) installed by an electrician for a total of about $350. Given that I've got about 30 Z-wave switches direct wired in which each cost me about $35 it seems like reasonably priced insurance for the most common killers of the equipment.

Sorry for your loss OP :( I would sulk for days if that happened to me. Not even so much the cost of the gear, but the time invested in getting it right.

u/willfe · 14 pointsr/Frugal

Gladly! Here is the model I use in my apartment. A touch on the pricey side, but worth it IMO. They make bigger ones too, but I haven't had the need for them yet.

u/omgmrj · 14 pointsr/battlestations

Desk handmade by local cabinetmaker. Monitor section can be flipped and dropped 3"

13" Macbook Pro with Retina

32" 1080p LG LCD (Haven't decided what to replace with yet)

Mackie 402-VLZ3 mixer (being replaced by Denon Pro receiver)

Yamaha MSP5 powered monitors (yeah, yeah, I need to get stands. These are getting replaced by Genelec 8030s)

Wacom Intuos 3 graphics tablet

Late 2009 Mac Mini


First gen Xbox 360 to not have RROD

Logitech Bluetooth receiver

Cable raceway

TrendNet broadband router

Managed Switch

Short computer power cable

Short "Mickey Mouse" power cable

Short micro USB cable (for Chromecast)

Buy some of these, you slobs

20W amp

Qi wireless charger, didn't work well with my Nexus 4.


Flat-head power strip, behind my bed

Ikea MALM bed and nightstands.

u/JerseyVan · 12 pointsr/NJTech

This is what i used, it will make you more popular

u/txmail · 11 pointsr/homelab

Shelves... buy some rack mount shelves and put your gear on it. I personally dig these but you can get some lighter duty shelves for about $40. A rackmount PDU is also pretty awesome.

u/steeley42 · 11 pointsr/AmazonTopRated

This looks cool and everything, but even better would be something like this. It just plugs into your existing outlets, and you secure it with a screw.

Make sure it specifically says it has a surge protector built in like this one does. 800-1000 joules should be minimum if you're going to plug in something that cost you hundreds of dollars, like a smartphone or tablet.

u/mattbuford · 10 pointsr/Windows10

You're not telling us much about your modem but...

My brother once called me because he was at a friend's house and having this same problem. After some discussion, I asked him to take a look at the power strip or UPS that everything was plugged into.

Power strips sometimes have a feature where there is a "master" port and a "slave" port. The master is watched for power draw, and when there is no power pulled on the master then the slave is turned off.

The friend had his laptop connected to the master port and his router on the slave port. Every time he turned off his laptop, the power strip would cut power to his router on the slave port.

Example power strip that works like this:

u/nsbsalt · 10 pointsr/solotravel

Said this before but if you are at a hostel extra chargers, iPhone and android wires and this bad boy ( ) can make you best of friends with your hostel mates.

u/apathycoalition · 9 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Are they using the same type of power supply though? The 3B+ uses about double the power of a 2b and a different pmic. You flipping the power back on to your entire apartment probably caused some lovely line noise. I've found that using a good UPS, or even a simple surge protector & something like a line conditioner can go a long way to preventing spikes/power problems if it becomes a repeating issue.

u/Crauza · 9 pointsr/AnimeFigures

here is what i used: the lights make sure its set to cool white if you are buying your selfnow the cable for the top most light is a bit short so u can always cut and solder a bit from the bottom light to the top one if you don't want the mess that i havealthough i did try to make it as neatly as possible.for securing the wires i just used clear 4inch zip ties and tucked them behind the frame inside. got this surge protector it comes with 6 outlets which are controlled by a remote so you can turn on all the cases with 1 button to secure the lights i used this double sided tape

and a bit of weather seal to keep the dust out on all 4 sides u can pick some up at home depot or fleet farm just make sure its 5/16th size

will be posting a big figure unboxing a bit later and how they all look inside the case.


Edit: forgot to link the bottom shelf so here it is pretty sturdy for the price

u/ricecooking · 8 pointsr/DIY

Buy one of these, plug your TV in where it says "Master," and plug your lights in where it says "Controlled by Master." When you turn your TV on, your lights come on.

u/mclamb · 8 pointsr/OSHA

Does this one? It says 15 amp circuit breaker, but I don't know enough about it to know if that protects overloading the strip.

Many of the GE brand cheap ones do advertise overload protection.

u/0110010001100010 · 8 pointsr/homeautomation

I do, and why not? They are much cheaper than even repairing a major appliance and take like 10 minutes to install.

EDIT: I have this one:

Did the install myself, it just hangs straight off the side of the breaker panel and has it's own 50A breaker. Pic:

u/ack154 · 7 pointsr/technology

Here you go: (this specific one is no longer available, sadly)

I have a smaller one in our bedroom for a similar setup. No complaints. Of course, couldn't tell you if any money is REALLY saved or if it has paid for itself yet. But the theory is sound.

If you search for "smart strip" or smart power strip or something like that, there are a few others out there.

u/automatedlife · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yup. Put something like this between the powerline adapter and your switch. You can ground the surge suppressor to the grounding screw that's likely on the back of your UPS.

u/jacle2210 · 6 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like OP might have a "dirty" power problem from their wall outlet.

Might also be a ventilation problem.

So, if you have a "dirty" power problem, then for a short term fix I would suggest investing in a voltage regulating device, such as:

Please note, this is NOT just a surge protector, its a line conditioner/voltage regulator; and assuming that OP's problem is "dirty" power, then a 'line conditioner/voltage regulator' should keep your connected devices from being killed.

If the conditioner appears to have solved OP's problem, then OP should contact their Electric company to report OP's ongoing problems with household electronics being killed by "bad" power and see if they can test the transformer feeding their house.

I would also suggest that OP use some form of active ventilation on their network equipment, as excessive heat will kill electronics also.

u/OSPFv3 · 6 pointsr/techsupport
u/Bodycount9 · 6 pointsr/cordcutters

And if you're worried about a surge coming in via coax cable, get one of these (high speed data compatible):

Via data cable:

They might not protect against a direct lightning strike. Not many things can protect against a direct strike unless you want to spend thousands of dollars on commercial grade stuff. But it might help against an indirect strike which happens a lot more often than direct strikes.

u/Algee · 6 pointsr/Algee_DIY

Required Hardware includes:

Item | Link | Exact Item I Used | Cost ($ CDN)
Raspberry Pi kit | link | Close Enough | $78.95
Arduino Nano | link | Yes | $25.99/5
50W 5v Power Supply | link | No| $26.45
5m WS2812B LED Strip | link | Yes | US$24.89
HDMI Splitter | link | Yes | $28.99
HDMI to RCA | link | Yes | $18.89
UTV007 Framegrabber | link | Yes | $17.99
RCA Male/Male | link | No | $2.59
Power Bar | link | No, but I might buy it | $20.85
Double Sided Tape | link | Yes | $6.45
HDMI x3 | | N/A | $10
Mini/Micro USB Cables | | N/A | $10

Total: ~CDN $260

u/Bentleg · 6 pointsr/OkCupid
u/the_keymaster_ · 5 pointsr/firstworldproblems

you might need this since you only have 1 outlet in your house.

u/fanfarecross · 5 pointsr/homelab

No one told me this when I started so I'll tell you:

I think we should specify here that "server rack" and "network rack" are built differently. If you want a rack for networking and just the 24 port switch and patch panel, you'd look at something like this. If you're wanting to eventually put a full-length server in, you'll need something like this instead the difference being that the second one is built to support the length and weight of a full server.

Keep in mind when you purchase a server you'll need to buy rails that attach to the rack for it. The server then sits in the extended rails, which slide back into the rack.

Startech makes pretty good stuff, IMO. I've seen them on here before. I have the four post rack that I linked to in the second post and it's served me well. The best thing you can do however, if you have the room, is to jump on craigslist and see if you can find an enterprise getting rid of their rack. Generally those are worth thousands new and the companies are selling them for $40, or something ridiculous like that. I didn't have access to a truck, so that's why I bought mine.

Note that with the large rack you can add networking equipment too, and can also get shelves to support things that aren't rackable.

For power you can either get a rackable UPS or power strip.

Hope this helps. Have fun.

u/MarkK7800 · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You can get the surge protectors with the plugs on the back. And if that doesn't fit, grab some 1 ft extension cords.


Since I plug into a UPS anyway, I bought this power strip and label what each switch does. I love it.

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 5 pointsr/networking

Ethernet Surge Protectors do exist... but I've never been in a situation where I needed to use them.

u/tdhuck · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If he already ran cat5, install a switch in the shop and connect the cat5 to the switch (as well as connecting it to a LAN port on the router in the house). In the shop, you can add an access point for him to hang off of the switch to provide better wifi in the shop.

Where does the shop get power from? If it has it's own panel, I recommend getting some inline cat5 protectors and put them on both sides of the cat5 run. When extending networks to other buildings, it is best to use fiber, but that does complicate things and increase price.

u/HumbleMagnificent · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Affect performance how?

Edit: I have mine plugged into This and haven't noticed anything odd.

u/parksddd · 5 pointsr/amazonecho

This with this and this will do what you are doing without the soldering iron.

I've got a fake wemo device defined, that triggers the broadlink to send RF or IR commands to any compatible device.
This, these, and these work really well for us.

u/zeug666 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Of course each situation is different, but I am pretty sure I left my mini-surge protector plugged in by the TV the whole time. I looked at some "Cruise Critic" forum posts and they seemed to indicate a dislike for power cords (extension cords, power strips, etc) because of the fire hazard, but no cord should mean no problem. A few posts even suggested the Belkin because of that.

How many outlets do you need? There are a few in the regular room: by the desk, by the bed, there was an iDevice dock that my wife used to charge her iPhone, I think another in the loo. There should also be some "international" outlets that can work with an adapter.

What do you expect on a boat? The connection back to land isn't great or cheap. If you are just trying to communicate amongst devices, why not use a wireless router to make your own WLAN?

Mac are computers are PCs too.

u/cedarboy · 5 pointsr/amateurradio

This might be more readily available, works well, havnt had any issues with them. This mounts on the pole, near your entry into the house. Use a small grounding rod + solid copper lead. I wouldn't worry much about lightning, as you said, everthing will fry anyways... but POE radios, like the one you are using are sensitive to static buildup. The wind, and especially snow/hail against the mast will create huge amounts of static charge, this has killed many radios (I worked at a WISP). The surge arrestor will ground this charge and make everything stable. Use shielded ethernet cable, for your sanity and as a tribute to those radios whom which we've lost.

u/heartcall · 4 pointsr/Vive

A cheaper option than a UPS, if you don't care about the battery backup feature, would be this. I had one of those for over 15 years, still works fine. I only had to buy a UPS because the power company has been getting even worse, and power has been going out completely on a semi-frequent basis.

If you want a UPS to be able to keep the whole computer on during a power outage, you'll have to do some shopping around and research. Not all of them can actually keep a modern computer on, you need one that outputs a sine wave, or at least a close enough approximation, for a modern PSU to work. This is the one I use.

I don't think the one you linked will keep a PC on, but APC is a more reliable brand. I've actually had a much older CyberPower UPS have the battery start swelling up like a balloon. I only bought the brand again because an APC UPS that outputs a sine wave was like $600, but don't know if they might have a cheaper one now.

edit: They do have a cheaper one now.

u/kendiara · 4 pointsr/videos

Or stuff like this. We have one connected to the game consoles. TV goes off so does the PlayStation.

u/iterative · 4 pointsr/AskElectronics

If you're content with the form factor and such, there are products that already do this:

I suspect they sense the current draw with a current transformer:

u/beigemore · 4 pointsr/homelab

My original plan was to build a small Ryzen server to run some VMs on. That plan eventually turned into looking at small racks and deciding I want to run ethernet throughout the house, so naturally I need it all to come together at one location. I bought a 6u rack (can technically hold 8u), a pdu, a tplink patch panel, and I got a free switch poe from Aerohive that I plan on using to power some security cameras. I found a 3u short rack mount computer case that can be mounted "backwards", which helps with air flow in these short racks and allows easy access to all of the io ports.

My Ryzen idea turned into a Theadripper build because of some crazy deals I got, and ended up being its own stand alone build. So I still don't really have a machine setup in the 3u case. I have a Dell board installed with an i7, but the psu has some weird proprietary connectors and the cables are too short for where the psu mounts, so I'll just look into replacing the board and psu at some point in the near future. I then plan on running proxmox and having this run part of a test lab, and maybe eventually act as a router.

I really, really like the pdu, but it's way over kill for this thing, so I'll probably just replace it with a nice surge protector, which will plug into an external battery backup.

I installed two exhaust fans into the top of the rack which run directly off the pdu. I could mount the patch panel 1u higher but the cables running into it would clash with the extra long screws the fans came with, so I will probably Dremel those screws in half when I get time.

The rack itself isn't bad. I had to get the first one replaced because it got destroyed during shipping. Other than having to tighten a few screws on the second one, works very well and came in great shape. I like this rack because it can be mounted on a wall or you can mount wheels to the bottom, which is comes with, and it looks nice while not weighing a million pounds.

Parts I'm using so far:

u/Megatron_McLargeHuge · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I'd be very surprised if a Monster surge protector was any better than an APC one for half the price. APC specializes in that kind of thing and Monster specializes in marking things up immensely.

u/Reizero · 4 pointsr/Atlanta

Thinking there was probably some kind of electrical fault when you plugged the cable box back in(Like Chris said below, could indicate that your outlets are not properly grounded, but you would need an electrician to check that). Damage might not have been caused by the cable box.

If you don't have one already, definitely get a surge protector for your more expensive electrical appliances and don't use a regular power strip. The good brands come with a equipment protection warranty and they will cover the cost of your equipment if something like this happens. I have two from APC that I use (just make sure to keep all the paperwork that comes with it and register it with them if you get one to be covered if anything happens again).

u/AMDSY3D · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I bought an APC one for like $18 on Amazon I think, do brands matter

Edit: I think this one, looks like it: APC P11VT3 11-Outlet 3020j Surge Protector

u/CaliBrian · 4 pointsr/leanfire

Vampire Power

like @totally_rocks talked about, vampire power is a thing. Stuff like microwaves, TVs, subwoofers, printers etc all use power while doing nothing. It's smart to measure both stand-by power and full on power usage.
Although mine has a 10 hour button that automatically turns back off, but basically the same. We have the DVR connected to one of the "always on" outlets so it will still record shows. But TV, receiver, subwoofer, roku, blu-ray all switched.

Or if you have appliances in, say, the kitchen, you can use a single outlet one like this:

If you're techie, look into Z-wave or like Kasa Smart Home stuff. They have all kinds of home automation things, including power outlet triggers that you can turn on and off based on any number of criteria (time, just got home, motion detected, etc).

I have a Kasa wifi bulb on my front porch and have it set to turn on at Sunset at full power until like 11pm, then dim to 1% all night to save energy, but not at the expense of a security deterrent. Then turn off at sunrise.

u/moronmonday526 · 4 pointsr/LifeProTips

Belkin makes a mini surge protector that converts a single US 3-prong outlet into 3 outlets plus 2 more USB charging-only ports. The 3 prongs also rotate to help make it fit in oddly spaced areas.

I fly over 40 weeks a year and attend conferences, so that adapter has saved me plenty. Although there was one time when I was sharing with two other random people and had to unplug them both when I was leaving but they were not!

u/ShadowSavant · 4 pointsr/japanlife

One of these to plug into the seat outlet, or one of these If you have more devices that need a plug.

Audio Books

A hard copy book/novel (or two).

Stay up all night prior if you want to try to sleep on the plane.

u/Unalive_Not_Sleeping · 4 pointsr/pics

You can actually buy electric outlet faceplates that do that. Also you can get this, it has two USB outlets on top of it. If you aren't technical enough to swap out a faceplate.

u/jtm5098 · 3 pointsr/guitarpedals

I'd strongly consider using a voltage regulator as well. I've played clubs where the voltage ranges from 98 V to 132 V, which can be death to a tube amp. A regulator automatically corrects the voltage when too high/low whereas a surge protector will only protect you from extreme surges (ie you'll still get 132 V).

u/AntiMe · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

High quality components in power equipment have mass and weight, this thing weighs less than 2 pounds. They might work against a surge, but a voltage regulator is a much better choice, as you get clean power with them too. BB may sell them.

u/sandals0sandals · 3 pointsr/buildapc

No problem. When you go looking for a new surge protection, I can't recommend the Line-R 1200VA Voltage Regulator highly enough:

u/rarehugs · 3 pointsr/hardware

What you want is a voltage regulator ($50) and a standard surge protector ($10) plugged into that. The voltage regulator protects your devices by conditioning the line against droop and spike. Voltage coming from your wall not otherwise conditioned will have fluctuations that can damage equipment. A UPS is pretty useless unless you absolutely need a few minutes of power during an outage to save a file or shutdown gracefully. The reality is auto-save makes this pretty obsolete and a hard shutoff of power is far less damaging than the ongoing fluctuations your voltage experiences every day.

Here's the one you want:

u/drjay2003 · 3 pointsr/hardware

Well damn, wish I had realized that when I got these ones. I usually do a lot of research but when I got these I was "!!!" about having just had a motherboard cook.

Unfortunately I went through their Trade-UPS system and it's offering me $70 off on an SMT1000 Smart-UPS for one of my XS 1500s. Assuming they'll do the same for my other one, and maybe $30 for the secondary battery, I'm still looking at $290 for it and I'll have a much lower runtime.

On the other hand I'm seeing line conditioners between $3 and five brazilian dollars, which is apparently a lot. For example.

Problem with that one is one of the reviews saying it "clicks" on and I don't think that will be much better than the backups. If I could find one that smoothly fixes the power for $100 or so I could keep the current battery capacity and have the power regulated. Best of both worlds, if possible.

u/fatangaboo · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

> "clean up" the line and remove the noise. If you look around you also might be able to find a power strip that does this without the battery cost

Here are a couple of power line conditioners, without battery backup, that would help:

u/deal_with_it99 · 3 pointsr/Electricity

I’d s try an smart strip first before bringing in an electrician to solve the problem. See if that solves your issue first.

Maybe something like this: Smart Strip LCG-3MVR Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 10-Outlet

u/cubical_hell · 3 pointsr/audiophile

There are power strips that have master / slave options. It will give power to an outlet after it senses a power draw from the master.

If your appletv was the master, it would power on the amp when it comes on.

u/Dumplingman125 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Here you go. I don't have this exact one, and although they're quite a bit more expensive than normal power strips, mine has survived many storms that killed other strips in the house.

u/spazturtle · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You want an Ethernet surge protector, not a modem one. Modem ones 'can' cause issue but not always, Ethernet ones never cause issues.

Get this one:

And wire the green wire to earth somehow, I have mine wired to the Earth pin on a plug and I removed the other 2 pins on the plug.

The one you linked should also be fine and won't cause issues if you only use the Ethernet ports and not the DSL ports, but I havn't tried it, I prefer to have separate devices.

u/pinellaspete · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I live in the Tampa Bay Area of Florida and it is considered the lightning capital of the USA. I installed a whole house surge protector at the main electrical panel box where the power enters my house. Home Depot sells 2 excellent Square D models to do this. One model costs about $32 and the other model costs about $100. (You only need one.) The whole house surge protector will give some protection to hard to protect devices like refrigerators, microwave ovens and washers and dryers.

Then my computers and electronics are plugged into APC surge protectors. The whole house surge protector will knock down the voltage from a huge power surge like a nearby lightning strike to a level that a normal surge protector power strip can handle without catching on fire.

Whole house surge protectors @ Home Depot:

And here:

APC Surge Protector @ Amazon:

EDIT: Just to be perfectly clear...Nothing will protect you from a direct hit lightning strike. These are meant to protect against most surges that you will encounter if lightning strikes nearby.

u/LionsMouth · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Agree. And instead of the power strip, buy a real surge protector. Not Wal-Mart crap either, but one that is used in a commercial office environment for individual workstations - at the very least.

Something like this:

u/_cudgel_ · 3 pointsr/CableManagement

Huge improvement, well done!

Two thoughts to offer:

  • velcro > zipties, because velcro is reusable and won't cut up your hands. Prob not an issue here tbh. This seems to be a holy war issue in /r/cableporn!
  • They make power strips / surge suppressors where they both lay flat against the wall AND rotate -- if you ever replace the power, keep an eye out for those. I use one of these and love it for that feature

    Happy gaming!
u/Plainzwalker · 3 pointsr/techsupport

option 1

option 2

I'd trust either of these, both a respectable names in the power distribution industry.

Also read through this for some other reviews/suggestions.

u/johnnychronicseed · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

I would highly recommend investing in a high quality surge protector. I am an IT guy and would recommend either an APC Surge Strip or a Kill-A-Watt Surge Strip.

APC makes a solid product that we sell and recommend to all of our customers from home users to enterprise businesses. I use an APC Surge Strip on my entertainment center and PC setup. (Runs about $5000 worth of equipment)

I personally use the Kill-A-Watt for my grow room because of the extra display features and built in EMI filter to reduce line noise. (Runs about $2500 worth of equipment)

u/jam905 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

You need to get a powerstrip with master/slave outlets. Something like the APC P8GT.

Three always-on, One Master, Four Slave/Controlled outlets

u/mishangelle · 3 pointsr/Frugal

I'm going to add this too. I use all three of these and they certainly keep my electricity costs down. My bills have been less than $27 for the last few months.

u/ghostfacekillur · 3 pointsr/amazonecho

I have a Belkin 3-Outlet SurgePlus Mini Travel Swivel Charger Surge Protector with Dual USB Ports at home I'm going to use that.

u/donmega617 · 3 pointsr/consulting

Saved me in a few small airports. Mini Travel Swivel Charger Surge Protector with Dual USB Ports

u/stutzmanXIII · 3 pointsr/electricians

Maybe this?

Belkin 3-Outlet SurgePlus Mini Travel Swivel Charger Surge Protector with Dual USB Ports (2.1 AMP / 10 Watt), BST300

u/Jon1764 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I wouldn't trust anything from the dollar store to be connected to the mains.

I personally use this and have not had any problems:

Don't cheap out when it comes to power.

u/scum-and-villainy · 3 pointsr/DiWHY

I have a few like that actually...some companies need to catch up then. my usb plugs are difficult to put in this.

u/zim2411 · 3 pointsr/hometheater

I have two of these and they a dirt cheap way to achieve this:

Plug your receiver into the control port and when it turns on any of the green ports will turn on too.

u/frosttd · 3 pointsr/bettafish

I have found that using a timer for my lights makes it a lot easier when it comes to keeping the photoperiod consistent. If you go to school/work, you can schedule the lights to be on when you wake up in the morning, turn off when you’re away, and then come back on when you’re home in the evening. It also makes it a lot easier for other people to care for your tank if you have to be away since you don’t have to worry about them forgetting about the light.

I have a few tanks and I’m currently using this one, and I love it, but it is a little more pricey than necessary if you only have one tank. I had one similar to this when I only had one tank, and this one is much more affordable.

Edit: you can also pick up similar outlet timers from hardware stores like Home Depot for relatively cheap if you are unable/unwilling to order things online!

u/spyingwind · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

or something like this:

Plenty of space for what ever you decide to plug in.

u/s4ndm4nn15 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

It sounds like it should work fine to me. However make sure you include a lightning arrester in there. Last thing you want is a lightning strike going right into your structured wiring.

Something like this:

Ubiquiti ETH-SP Ethernet Surge Protector

u/pax2user · 3 pointsr/microgrowery
u/p1nkpineapple · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PSUs dont normally have much surge protection - alot of outlets have a little button/switch or writing on it saying 'surge protected'. They are very cheap at the low end and I recommend getting one to provide a little protection. example

u/rubemll · 2 pointsr/brasil

Por US$ 5 não é filtro de linha, e sim só régua.

Por exemplo, nesse aqui está escrito claramente que é um filtro: Ele até dá dados técnicos sobre a filtragem, então é um filtro.

Já esse aqui em LUGAR NENHUM do anúncio diz que é filtro: E as vezes o ANÚNCIO diz que é "Filtro" no título, mas se for na ficha técnica ou no site do fabricante, lá NÃO dirá que é um filtro.

O que mais tem no mundo é régua/T sendo vendido como filtro. Pra ter filtragem precisa muito componente, a montagem manufaturada é demorada, não tem como chegar num custo unitário muito baixo. Pra 3-4 tomadas duvido que dê pra ficar abaixo de US$ 15 nos EUA. Regua/multiplicador é tipo extensor de tomada (Rabicho) ou cabo de força pra fonte ATX, pode custar US$ 1,99 porque é feito no injetor com forma, zero manufatura.

u/Dartarus · 2 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Sounds like you need a different power strip.

u/Heratiki · 2 pointsr/gaming

They are also called Voltage Regulators...

EDIT: Your link is more of a professional type of device.

u/MrHeuristic · 2 pointsr/apple

Also I'd be wary about using your iPhone while charging in the future. If you must do it at that dorm, I would invest in a true voltage regulating UPS to prevent whatever spike you had that caused the shock. Another option would be to use the USB port of a laptop or PC to charge it, since you have the buffer of a full power supply (with much larger capacitors than a wall wart) between your phone and the mains.

u/KhaosKat · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use the APC LE1200. I've had mine for years and it's worked quite well for me.

u/MexicanThrowaway_ · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

Well, most of the time that i have seen computers with damaged power supply units (the kind that goes inside the case) its actually because they were plugged in on that kind of cheap power strips, i get what you mean, some DECENT power strips DO come with voltage spike protectors, and UPS batteries also protect from power spikes / blackouts, but those power strips in the picture look cheap.

if you can see the lightbulbs in the house dim a tiny bit when they use the microwave / washing machine / fridge, those voltage variations can damage the power supply over time. thats why i usually recommend at least a voltage regulator for the PC they usually look like this

if the computer is connected to a UPS its a bit more protected, because, in case of a blackout, it gives you time to stop whatever you are doing and turn off the computer, then people usually turn off the UPS because as its not receiving power from the wall outlet it will be beeping constantly, so, when the power comes back, the power surge is stopped at the UPS, then if you want to use the computer again you have to turn on the UPS and then the computer, while the power strips in the picture would stay in the ON position allowing the power spike to reach the power supply in the machine, and probably damaging it.

u/Forest_GS · 2 pointsr/Warframe

If you live in an old house the wiring could be sending dirty power to your system and it skips some data while at full tilt because of it, leading to a crash.

If all other things you try don't fix it, you can get a UPS with voltage regulation (some don't do voltage regulation so double check). Or just go with a straight voltage regulator where you don't have to worry about a battery going bad in two or three years.

Any type of over clocking, even if the parts are rated for it, make a system more susceptible to crashing from even slightly dirty power.

The power could also become dirty from chineseium products or other cheap high draw devices. Some cheap LED bulbs can be really noisy.

Edit- a new power supply could be a fix, but it would get worn down the same as the current one if the problem is dirty power.

u/DrSandbags · 2 pointsr/TropicalWeather

If you had an AVR like this could you expect to be protected if you still wanted to watch TV until the power went out?

u/supercargo · 2 pointsr/electricians
  1. Yes, setting the gain knob on the sub to 1/8 of maximum would work. It would be worth doing some testing since you might be able to go higher depending on your source material

  2. A power strip with a resettable circuit breaker would work; Furman makes various products like this which are designed specifically for use with audio and include some extra filtering circuitry; something like or
u/NewC303 · 2 pointsr/applehelp

A leap here, but could it be the power that your computers are getting? Perhaps the power in your house has a lot of noise. Maybe you should try plugging in your laptop at a library and see if you can hear the noise through your headphones. Also have you tried different headphones? There are power conditioning power strips that might help if that's the issue.

u/skytzx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I recall someone on buildapc had a similar issue before. Their solution was to get a power conditioner... something like this or this may fix the issue.

They're commonly used for audio equipment where audible noise can result from dirty power.

u/shoturtle · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

A power conditioner can lessen this effect of the hissing. It will not eliminated it, but lessen it. But if it is not annoying. I would just let it along. Something like this.

u/ya_bewb · 2 pointsr/livesound

I use these: Furman SS6B 6 Plug Surge Protector

Edit: generic power strips tend to be noisy. These units from Furman don't condition the power, but they help block emi and rfi. They also have a metal case and can take a lot of abuse. They also make rack-mount units that do condition power, which are popular in studios.

u/pompeiisneaks · 2 pointsr/GuitarAmps

to be honest, I'd say this is probably the best bet for what you need without breaking the bank: I have one and dig it, but as stated, sometimes the problem isn't going to be fixed by something like that. The house sounds like it has some serious power problems. Those kind can sometimes be the kind that can cause fires etc, if there's surging every time a device is used, hints at bad connections somewhere and power is pushed until it arcs across some bad gap, causing a surge.

u/thebigreason · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Yeah. I use these Furman Power Strips with 15' power chords.

u/GeckoDeLimon · 2 pointsr/diysound

They make surge protectors that switch some of the outlets based on whether one main device is plugged in and powered on. Plug the receiver / preamp into the main, and then plug the Behringer (or a 12v wall wart connected to the trigger port) into one of the slave outlets.

Edit: Here's a popular one.

u/TheThirdStrike · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

I got this one from Amazon.

But there are a lot that are cheaper

u/RealityMan_ · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

8 AWG is way overkill. I have a dedicated 15 amp outlet to my rack. What I did was just run the equivalent ground sized on that service back to the panel. 15 amp outlets use 14/2, so I just ran a 14 AWG THHN wire back to the grounding bar of my service. Some will recommend running "one up" (if you run 14/2, run a 12 awg ground) on the ground based on the service, but meh. This will clear any static that builds up on it, and will clear any faults that hit the rack just as good as the existing 14/2. I think it makes more sense on bigger installations, not simple networking equipment.

You can ask COX about getting a drop into that room, but they probably won't do it for you unless you get TV service. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, but I understand what you are saying. I haven't done anything with my coax, but since I have fiber to the home, all the TV is IP based and I can just run the televisions off the cat 5 jacks.

I would get a PDU for your rack, it will simplify everything when you put it in, and it has a 10 foot cable. I have it run into my UPS and my UPS plugged into the wall.

u/ahenkel · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Couple things I would check would be your home's electrical ground. and I would if not already done so install a COAX surge protector.

You could also put an ethernet surge protector between your system and the router.

Disclaimer I am not making a recommendation on parts. Part links are for example only.

u/stephengee · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I've never personally used one, but there are lots of people making in-line network surge protectors. You have to connect the ground wire to your PC case or power supply.

u/YourMomSaidHi · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

I think you are worried about lightning protection? I wouldn't worry about it on a direct buried cable, but if you want to be safe get this

And if it were me, I wouldn't run 5 cables from your switch direct buried. I would run 2 and use 1 (the 2nd is just a backup) and connect to another switch in the other room. This gives you flexibility to do whatever you want in the new place. Your ISP is probably feeding you 50-80 megs or so? You can easily cover the whole pipe with a single 100 meg cable. You don't need to homerun al your drops

u/mkautzm · 2 pointsr/techsupport

What are the make and models of the PSUs?

Also, most 'surge protectors' don't protect against surges. this is a surge protector*.

This and things like this will do exactly fuckall.

Even the 'real' surge protector that I linked however will fail to do much if the power you are getting is just 'dirty'. Stuff like that will take the hit from say, a lightning bolt, but if that 120hz signal is wavering between 100 and 140, then your mileage may vary.

If you want real protection, get a battery backup. That'll partition your electronics away from the wall.

u/pixelprophet · 2 pointsr/InteriorDesign

Get one of these:

Mount it on the wall / fireplace behind the TV and run the cord along the base of the platform. Use zipties to pull the excess wires together and secure to the surge protector.

u/Capo_capo · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I see this:

No idea if it causes slower speeds though.

u/Bronocularz · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

This is great. Only thing is the price is throwing me off. Either Amazon is low balling the original price or Newegg is jacking up the regular to make the sale price more appealing..

Either way I'm getting this. Thank you OP!

u/wanderjahr · 2 pointsr/hometheater

As far as a surge protector, I use this You should contact the manufacturer of your surge protector to see if it was a faulty protector.

As far as brands for tvs to get, there was a post recently about top brands. I'd look there and gather a consensus. Though, at the 35"-42", there will be a feature parity between most brands which is to say not too many features. That's kind of good for you because you can safely look through the 2015 models on Amazon Warehouse or something similar and get more bang for your buck since cutting edge features aren't really something you'll be checking in the box.

u/Solor · 2 pointsr/PS4

I'd suggest looking for one that shows an indicator whether or not that surge protector is still good.

You'll find them like this -

Also take a look at the writeup by /u/hyperintake92 that he posted in this thread. Gives some good info on what to look for, for a surge protector.

As a note, I did very minimal investigation on that APC power bar. Was just the first one I saw that had a surge status light on it. I'm by no way saying that's the one for you, but I'm also not saying it's bad, lol.

Edit: Looked up the spec sheet on it; turns out it's actually a solid surge bar with some nice safety features built in. Link here

u/act-of-reason · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Buy a newer, better surge protector.

Get a surge protector with lights (like this) that alert you to issues with overload and building wiring faults and coax surge protection (I've had a coax surge kill a computer monitor before).

u/vjack11 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Normal voltage fluctuations are extremely small and unlikely to be a problem. Do you have some reason to think your house is prone to serious voltage spikes?

I would just get a decent surge protector (e.g. this APC model ) and call it a day.

u/Sneakersislife · 2 pointsr/PS4

Here is the exact one from Amazon, listed at 3020 joules.

APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector 3020 Joules with Telephone, DSL and Coaxial Protection, SurgeArrest Performance (P11VT3)

u/Lorben · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

That's very unusual. You may want to invest in a chunky surge protector. Risking expensive electronics on a cheaper surge protector is a bad time. Drives me up the wall to see someone put $1000 worth of electronics on a $8 Walmart power strip.

I'm a fan of APC's stuff ever since someone at my prior job daisy chained a couple together and put a space heater on the end. Instead of catching on fire it partially melted the outlet on the surge protector and kept working. Pretty impressive considering it scorched the wall socket.


You can get a charger from the Nintendo refurb store for $20.

I've bought a couple 3DS systems and a few accessories from them, they've always been indistinguishable from new except for the packaging.

u/loonling · 2 pointsr/htpc

OK. Cool. I do the same.

So then, connect the AVR to the TV using one of those switching power strips. They're usually marketed as "power saving power strips". With a quick look I found this one on for C$38.


u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audio

> Furman manufacture a sequencer that does exactly this, with three separate timed events in sequence

Another option is a "smart" power strip. They have a current sensor on one outlet and then turn some other outlets on/off. When you switch off the "master" device, a few seconds later it will cut power to the other devices. Some example models:

  • Tripp Lite AV88SATG
  • APC P8GT
  • Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip

    I have an older APC model than the above, but they look to be very similar. It has a current sensitivity adjustment for the master outlet, which is nice, although I'd also like some control over the timing.

    This approach only gives you the proper power-on sequence, obviously, as it's always reacting to the "master" device, so it can't turn off the audio equipment until after it detects you've turned off the computer.
u/o0oo0o_ · 2 pointsr/Roku

No, but you can get a "smart" surge protector. You plug the TV into the "main" or "master" slot, then plug the Roku into one of the "controlled" slots. Then, when you turn off the TV, it will cut power to the Roku a second or so later.

The disadvantage is that the Roku will have to boot up again when you next use it, so it's not as fast as leaving it on.

Edit: I just looked online and I'm seeing a lot of new surge protectors and power strips being called "smart" because they have wifi or voice assistant compatibility; that's not what you want for this. The important feature for you is the "master" and "controlled" outlets.

I don't have experience with these specific models, but these list the features:

u/neuromonkey · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

And if it doesn't (or the USB ports stay powered up when the TV goes into standby,) you can use something like what I use, this Belkin power strip. I have these in a couple of places, and they work well.

Of course, the idea of using a power strip that costs as much as the computer you're using is a bit silly. I don't use it with the RPi. I've had enough file corruption without doing things like that to it.

u/spriggig · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Dunno if these are recommended for tv's but killing power at the strip will save a bit on the electric bill while solving your problem reasonably well.

u/toraba · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I know you're saying that you've managed the cables in the last 2... but i see lots of dangly bits... could i recommend some good cable management sleeves? and a good remote-shutoff surge protector? and some grommeting?

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could get something like that. - More expensive alternative if you don't want the wireless ability but would like noise suppression. Tripp Lite is also the best company about honoring their warranty in the event of damage.

u/koopa2002 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

With that switch, I’m assuming you don’t have a hub and that brand likely doesn’t have much of an ecosystem so I doubt it has addon switches and such like hue and some others have.

I’d probably suggest a remote controlled power strip or an eco strip that uses a primary socket on the strip, like your cpu tower, to control the rest of the plugs and it cuts power to the “eco” sockets when the cpu is off. For example.

Belkin 8-Outlet Conserve Switch Surge Protector with 4-Foot Cord and Remote, F7C01008q

Tripp Lite TLP66RCG Eco Surge... is the one I have had for about 6 years but it seems to be discontinued.

Example of the automatic style I mentioned
CyberPower CSHT1208TNC2G Home Theater Surge Protector + TEL Protection, 4350J/125V, 12 Outlets, 8ft Power Cord

u/PapaNixon · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I would add it to a home automation project I'm going to build and have it send 433MHz RF signals to my Belkin Conserve Switches.

u/ktka · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have this and it works great:

What does the switch on the wall control? If you plan to repurpose that switch, what are you giving up?

u/atlantajerk · 2 pointsr/hardware

In lieu of finding an external case with a switch you could:

  1. Use a power strip with a remote control like this Belkin.

  2. Make your own with this switch and these two jacks right here. You wouldn't even need to solder.
u/turfyman · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I considered building one using:

    1. An Arduino to sense the signal

    1. Belkin Green Powerstrip

      If I had more time, I could have finished it. I was tweaking the audio detection algorithm and had a circuit drawn out for the 12V turn-on signal used in the remote. (It's a very simple PCB in the remote)

      I was using a line level signal for input, so it didn't really need any conditioning. The driver circuit to handle the turn-on wasn't very complicated (a transistor used as a switch to pull-up the push button switch input to 12V). The chip in the remote could be purchased and wired up stand-alone without modding the remote, but it seemed like more work to me.

      If there are any commercial solutions, AFAIK they were really expensive and not readily available.

u/InfernalWedgie · 2 pointsr/LosAngeles

> Just don't depend on finding an outlet.

Bring one of these.

I got the idea from this thread a while back.

u/acisnot · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Snow snow go away.
[Cuz they say two thousand zero zero party over,
Oops out of time
So tonight I'm gonna party like it's 1999] (

u/randumname · 2 pointsr/Cruise

Here's a handful of things a lot of new folks neglect:

Read reviews of the departure port (e.g., Ft. Lauderdale or Boston). Some ports are a pain to get to, get in and out of, and have little amenities (seats, bathrooms, parking, HVAC). If your cruise is slightly delayed due to customs or whatever, it can make the start of your trip miserable. offers some of the best deals and bonuses out there.

As for viruses, wash your hands, be defensive regarding personal contact with strangers, door handles, elevator buttons, and use the hand sanitizer wherever available. Cruises are no better or worse than airlines or college dorms, in the sense that you get a diverse group of people together and people are bound to get sick, but a little prevention goes a long way.

Don't overpack. Take advantage of laundry deals onboard mid-week if you're worried about running out of clothes (often $20 for all you can fit in a paper laundry bag).

Consider getting something like the Belkin 3-Outlet Surge Protector. Rooms on ships have limited outlets, and having power plugs and USB plugs is really useful if you have phones, cameras, ebooks, whatever.

Do the math on drink packages ahead of time (wine, alcohol, or soda), and remember that 15% gratuity is tacked on to all purchases. Sometimes the packages can be worth it, but you may find out you have to drink a lot to break even.

Consider trying traditional cruising first...set dining times, the same servers all week, getting dressed appropriately. Yeah, it may seem a little odd, but it's good to know if you do/don't like it before you pursue a non-traditional approach like Norwegian.

Be careful not to buy drinks in "souvenir"'s costs you several dollars more and you'll likely not actually want them (some people do, though).

Check out for bunches of info.

Don't be shy about exploring the ship and telling people you're a first-time cruiser. You'll get plenty of advice - some of which may actually be useful!

A warning: Once you go for a balcony room, you'll never go back to porthole / interior room again. That said, interior rooms are awesome for sleeping, since you'll never see the light of day.

Don't expect to spend a ton of time in your room, so don't worry about the room quality too much.

Room service (barring certain items) is still free/included and nearly 24-hours on most cruise lines. Order breakfast on a port-day will not get you off the ship faster...going to the buffet or dining room is almost always faster.

Don't be shy about dinner seating...sit with other may meet some interesting folks...that said, don't be shy about asking to be moved if they're complete jerks.

u/datrumole · 2 pointsr/androidapps

I have both a battery and a mini 3 way outlet adapter in my bag for exactly this, sharing is caring

This one

u/rbetts · 2 pointsr/onebag

> Power strip

I prefer one with USB ports - like ... I travel with one of these about 50% of the time. It is awkwardly blocky but useful.

u/FourthBridge · 2 pointsr/JapanTravel

Regarding your last point, it's always a good idea to bring a compact power strip with you when travelling. Something like this or this, though you may need a 3-prong to 2-prong converter for some places in Japan. They are great for nights when you have to charge multiple devices and make you a hero at airports.

u/louisss15 · 2 pointsr/Cruise

Any recommendations on a cordless power strip without surge protection? I took this with me two years ago and no one said anything (couldn't use it anyway, cause it has a blank prong for a second outlet):

I plan on taking this with me on a cruise in a month, and am hoping it will be fine:

u/MegaHz · 2 pointsr/Nexus5

I grabbed 2 of these, one for work, one for home. They do an awesome job.

u/Biomortis · 2 pointsr/pics

Alternative method and cheaper, especially if you need additional outlets of course, it isn't as clean looking.

u/tmx1911 · 2 pointsr/electricians

I have never heard of something for that purpose in a residential setup. I'm sure you could find something to do that but it would not be inexpensive by any means. Aside from local UPS protection for computers, etc; you may want to look into a whole house suppressor as jimjazz1414 suggested. I think that would help but it would only be a bandaid on a severed limb if that voltage spiked that high for any long period of time. Here is what he was refering too:

u/DavidAg02 · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

For under $100 and an hour of an electricians time, you can have a whole house surge protector wired into your electrical panel. One of these or something like it:


I highly recommend one of these in addition to point of use surge protectors. It only has to save your gear once to pay for itself many times over. Also, if you're handy, this is a DIY job.

u/DumpsterDave · 2 pointsr/Appliances

SquareD makes a whole home surge arrestor that can either fit into two slots (Homeline or QO panels only), or attach to the exterior of the Panel (Universal). Check with local ordinances before you take this on yourself. If you are comfortable working in a service panel and can safely disconnect the main while working, it should be a simple 30 minute or less install.


u/Squirly8675309 · 2 pointsr/electricians
u/tomgabriele · 2 pointsr/htpc

Are you powering up from a full shutdown? If so, you could enable the 'power on after power failure' in the bios and use a remote like the Harmony home control to switch on the outlet that the computer is plugged into. You'll get some bonus vampire power savings when the computer is off too...

You could also do a similar thing with a smart power strip that has a control outlet and a switched outlet (like this) so that your HPTC receives power when, for example, you turn your TV on.

Or if you want to get goofier, you could hack a wireless doorbell to work as a power switch for your computer.

Also, it sounds like you just need to bend the contacts in the case's power switch connector to make better contact with the mobo pins.

u/robotdinofight · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I have one of these for that purpose. Have my inuke subwoofer amp and cable box plugged in so they only turn on when the receiver is on.

u/pablius5k · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Maybe something like this?

TrickleStar 7 Outlet Advanced PowerStrip, 1080 Joules, 3ft cord

u/Schnodally · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Here you go

TrickleStar 7 Outlet Advanced PowerStrip, 1080 Joules, 3ft cord

u/tibberion · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Depending on the logistics, a power strip with "switched outlets" will work. Basically, the "master" lamp plugs into the "control" outlet and the "slave" switch plugs into one of the "switched" outlets. This is assuming that you can run extension cords so they can both plug into the same power strip.

u/eat-skate-poop · 2 pointsr/GrowingMarijuana

Just the lights in my opinion. You want air to still be circulating. I bought a couple of power strips that have 8outlets each, but 4 of them on each are set to a mechanical timer.

BN-LINK 8 Outlet Surge Protector with Mechanical Timer (4 Outlets Timed, 4 Outlets Always On) - White if you are interested

u/WillLie4karma · 2 pointsr/Chameleons

I keep mine on a 12 hour cycle and I use something like this to keep them on that cycle without me having to remember or waking up early.

u/YWGer · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I use these but got them on sale at about half that price and one at a garage sale for $5!

u/theMightyMacBoy · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Are you supposed to put a ETH-SP on both sides of the outdoor cable? I would assume so... Let me know. I ran cat5 out to my shed for a camera and will be adding the cam in the spring. Thanks!

u/ajairo · 1 pointr/techsupport

Are the Nvidia drivers for your 660 installed? Also, you may have a power problem, when I moved apartments my gaming PC started having issues(shutting off randomly/Blue screening) and would choke while playing very taxing games. The solution to my problem was an Voltage regulator(Like this)

u/norsk · 1 pointr/techsupport

Would plugging surge protectors into a UPS be a bad idea?

Would it make sense to plug a voltage regulator into the outlet then each of the surge protectors into that?

u/DesertWizard1 · 1 pointr/electronics

I would definitely recommend getting a voltage regulator. Battery backup is nice, but not completely necessary.

here's why:

The problem is being caused by voltage fluctuations in the apartments wiring, which are caused by the motor in the refrigerator.

So, you need to get something that will make sure your computer is supplied with a constant voltage, and this does not require a battery backup. The backup is useful for when you completely lose power, of course a lot of backups have power regulation built in. But, it's much cheaper to just get the voltage regulator.

u/azrael201 · 1 pointr/hometheater

how's this one

u/spens0r · 1 pointr/buildapc

Really top notch build. I especially like the RevoDrive.

Might I suggest protecting your setup against further power mishaps by purchasing either a quality UPS or voltage regulator / line conditioner? I had a power supply blow up on me a couple years ago and since then I've been putting these APC Voltage Regulators on all my PC builds and home theater components.

Just food for thought. Enjoy the new machine!

u/skunker · 1 pointr/electricians

It is definitely the computer. Do you think something like this would stop the tripping?

u/_zarkon_ · 1 pointr/DIY

There are devices that do that such as this.

I was looking into them when my laser printer was tweaking out my UPS (on the same circuit, not plugged into) every time I printed something. Alas my printer burned out before I installed one.

u/tempaccount920123 · 1 pointr/gpumining


>Heavy lightning storms, then mining rig stopped mining

>The motherboard and GPU were still on and I wouldn't have known the system stopped mining if I didn't try to turn on the connected monitor or check flypool hash rate.

>PSUs are plugged into a sturdy surge protector.

>Anyone else experience something like this? How safe are mining rigs during lightning storms? Why if I'm not home and its thor's hammer outside?

u/my_cat_joe · 1 pointr/vinyl

Get a voltage regulator for your wonky power. Voltage fluctuations are hell on electronics.

u/CyFus · 1 pointr/electricians

Would something like this help?

u/techsupport_SS · 1 pointr/SubredditSimulator

Where do the DC wires go to on the phone and doing a reset on it again. I don't believe there is an issue with windows for many years.

u/jerklin · 1 pointr/WTF

Anyway to safeguard for this? The house I rent had some terrible wiring. One of the bedrooms had an outlet that would make any light plugged in to it strobe. There were exposed wires in the basement. I believe the electrician that looked at some of the wiring called it a sleeping dragon. They fixed the bad outlet, but I'm still a bit nervous about the rest of the house. I have no idea if someone tried to DIY the electric here at one point. I had to argue with my landlord (homeowner) forever to get an electrician here. They kept trying to cheap out with unlicensed guys.

I run my electronics through one of these, but I'm still very paranoid about fire.

u/placebo92 · 1 pointr/synthesizers

I recently bought this apc LE-1200 voltage regulator off Amazon, first one I received was faulty but they sent a new one after not too much hassle.

This is probably the most affordable power conditioner from a seemingly trusted company.

It doesn't have the battery backup, but for me that was a plus as I don't really need that and it just ups the cost like crazy!

Good for peace of mind if nothing else I figure.

u/nmanzi1991 · 1 pointr/DJs

A furman is the one that we went with.

Hopefully this one will do the trick for this go around. Anyway, thanks again for all your advice! Helped us out a lot

u/rambleon80 · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

Have you noticed playing at different locations? Sometimes it's the power supply in your house/ studio. I know because one of the outlets in my little home studio always causes a little buzz. I've never noticed this playing out or in my band's practice space. You might want to try something like this?

u/aberugg · 1 pointr/sysadmin

I've always wondered if something like this would help. Electricity isn't my strong suit as far as knowledge. I use one at home for an AV mixer and it made a huge difference in reducing hum and all kinds of anomalies. Maybe this is a good compromise compared to having to shell out the dough for UPS' for each device, in case their boss doesn't want an upgrade.

That is, if it gets the job done right.

u/PutInKosar · 1 pointr/bravia
u/ThatsWhatSheSaid_84 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Did you shut off or unplug all other electronics within the vicinity of the speakers while they are powered on? I would be curious if you still get the noise. If no, power on each item 1 by 1 to see if that is causing the interference to start, and then if feasible, relocate.

If that doesn't work or isn't an option, you could try an RFI/EMI filter to see if it helps. You can try a more cost effective option like this, which depending on how strong it is may do the trick. I had a similar issue from time to time with a vintage receiver and this helped in my case.

Furman Power Conditioner (SS6B)

You could also try a ferrite core filter than snaps onto the power cord itself.

Hope this helps!

u/Dondervuist · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

I suppose you could do that, but it's definitely not ideal. You'd be essentially drawing power for up to 10 devices off of one outlet if you plug the 10 switch PDU into one of the outlets of the power conditioner. I assume it would probably be ok since both devices are rated at 15A, but I can't find any information on what one individual outlet on a power conditioner/strip is rated for.

If you're absolutely dead set on getting the 10 switch PDU and you still want a minimum level of filtering and surge protection, I would probably get something like this Furman power strip and plug the PDU into it. It still offers a standard level of EMI/RFI filtering and standard level surge protection and it's only $34. Plus, it has a built in circuit breaker so it would shut off in the event that anything did get overloaded. Along the same vein, this one has slightly better filtering and better surge protection for $43 and this one is the top-of-the-line one for both filtering and surge protection for $90. I would go with one of those if you want the filtering. (probably the $43 one if it were me)

Alternatively, you could forego the filtering and just get one of these for $10. That would at least give you the surge protection. The difference being, without the filtering you might notice a hum in the speakers or pick up radio stations in your equipment, etc. The filtering just lowers your noise floor to some extent and helps keep unwanted interference out. If you never use a microphone or electric guitar/amplifier you might not need it (except for the speakers). I would say surge protection is a must though.

Edit: I just found this two-outlet surge protector that has almost double the joules rating for surge protection as the $10 one-outlet surge protector I mentioned earlier and it offers EMI/RFI filtering (probably not as good of filtering as the Furman ones, but it still has some). That would probably be a good choice also.

Sorry for the wall of text, there are just so many options!

u/Crashboy96 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Any chance you could comment on whether this power conditioner will actually provide any benefit?

Bought it after a quick google search because I needed something ASAP and a couple sites recommended it.

u/michelework · 1 pointr/electricians

They are called smart strips.

amazon link for purchase

u/MankYo · 1 pointr/hometheater

Energy-saving power strip:

Many different models to choose from in that product category.

The idea is that you connect your AVR into an always on "main" or "control" outlet (or whatever it's labelled on the specific product), and the other components like CD players into the "secondary" or "switched" outlets that are controlled by the main outlet. The power strip senses more current going through the main outlet when the AVR is on, and then turns on power to the secondary outlets. When the AVR turns off, the power strip senses the current drop, and turns off power to the secondary outlets.

u/artoink · 1 pointr/electronics

Get a Smart Surge Protector.

It has a master outlet that triggers the rest of the outlets.

u/tooclosetocall82 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Your speaker need to be powered somehow. Once you have the figured out you could try a smart power strip like this:

u/TomTheGeek · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

What about using a smart power strip? They monitor an outlet for current and shuts off a section of the strip automatically when the computer/tv/printer is off.

u/LJHalfbreed · 1 pointr/cade

Yeah, I use something kinda similar to this: Autoswitching Strip Thingie

Rig the Pi/PC/etc with an external switch, and then plug it into the 'master outlet'. When you power on the Pi, that triggers the other outlets into powering up, and then your monitor, speakers, marquee, etc all power up. Pretty nifty.

u/electrodan · 1 pointr/Guitar

I use one of these, I have my amp set as the "control" and my pedal board plugged in to one of the switched outlets.

It might not be the best of you have a ton of pedals, but for my home setup it works great and I can use the other "hot" outlets for other stuff like charging my phone etc.

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/htpc

I have done this numerous times and you can put as large a fan as have the ability to cut out. The top rear of the cabinet will be best and shouldn't affect the TV.

Look through your old electronics for a 12V transformer you can butcher or output from the PC. The xBox probably only heats up when running but the DirectTV box likely runs hot all the time. You can look at buying a Smart power strip like this and tell the fan to run only when the TV is on.

If you had a receiver, some models have switched outlets to turn on equipment when it is running. (Check your direct TV box for this as well) But that would only turn it on with the cable box which you might not run with the PC.

u/ablaize · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Not sure if this would work for what you're trying to do, but we use a similar autoswitching power strip for our entertainment center. TV plugs into the control, router/modem plugs into always on, and everything else gets switched off when the tv turns off. Hands off functionality and no vampire current draw.

u/Scipio11 · 1 pointr/homelab

You could try this bad boy or something similar. It has two fans on the top that pull out the heat. From there it's up to you where to build ducts to move the heat, whether its out the door or somewhere else. Make sure to add netting to the end of whatever duct you put outside to help cut down on bugs (I also have this mounted inside to help with power cable management)

Another thing to check is if you have another room that's more insulated from heat than one with a glass sliding door. I currently have limited space in my apartment, but have blackout curtains on the windows by my gear to help cut down on other sources of heat, I also have an air conditioner nearby that detects the ambient temp and kicks on only when needed (also monitor the humidity in this room to make sure your gear is safe).

The hard truth of it though is that for each BTU your gear puts out you'll have to pay for the same BTU output from your A/C

u/ScalyTiger · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Rack mounted power strips (for things that don't need battery backups) and rackmount 1U monitor console.

Also, document all switch credentials in something like Passwordstate, export all switch configs, color-code ethernet cables, and purchase ethernet cables to necessary length.

u/smartdarts123 · 1 pointr/homelab

Yes, I have this in the rack:

So, everything that is plugged into that will be grounded through that via the wall outlet, is that correct?

u/Nick_W1 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I use this ADJ switched pdu which works well (and I have labeled the switches).

I also have the Pyle switched PDU, but took it out because is is not well constructed. Specifically the rack mount ears (and faceplate) are plastic, with a strange hollow construction. This means as you tighten the rack screws to hold the weight, the ears crush down and crack. It’s bizarre, the body is metal, but the ears are hollow plastic. No idea what genius came up with this, but it doesn’t work.

You might be able to make it work by putting washers in the hollow, but by the time I figured this out, the ears were toast.

I also have one of These and one of These , both Cyberpower, which work well.

This is my Ubiquiti Network Rack , powered by a Cyberpower UPS.

u/daphatty · 1 pointr/homelab

I gave up trying to find 1U PDUs. I suspect the added intelligent power features require significantly larger logic boards. Ultimately, I bought a 1U surge protector and called it a day.

u/gnartung · 1 pointr/homelab

Just saw that. So I have this Cyberpower 12 outlet PDU with surge protection. That thing is a no-go to plug into a Cyberpower UPS, right?

u/Fuzzybunnyofdoom · 1 pointr/homelab

I bought a CyberPower CPS1215RMS which is plugged into a APC 1500 (SMT1500) for surge and BBU. I got the APC for free from work...I'm also on a budget. The CPS1215RMS has been fine for me and after one incident at work where I accidentally bumped/flipped an uncovered switch on a PDU and cycled a full HP2920 switch stack I greatly appreciate having covers on PDU power switches. Thanks to that mistake we have redundant PSU's on those stacks now so it all worked out : )

Tripp lite, in my experience, make solid and reliable gear. If you get either of the one's you've linked you'll be happy. The only thing I'd say is one has a 15 ft. cord, which is alot of cable to hide somewhere or bundle up. The 6 ft. cords are typically plenty.

u/mercenary_sysadmin · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The really important bit is to use an inline ethernet surge suppressor on both ends. You can use the one in a UPS, if you already have a UPS nearby and handy. Otherwise you can use standalone "bullet" style suppressors like this or this, or you could go with a power strip with Ethernet surge suppression.

Note that the cost is very similar between the standalone suppressors and the full power strip, which might make a difference in your decision. The standalone is probably more robust protection against actual lightning-strike levels of overvoltage, but ONLY if properly grounded with the spade connector. If you're at all uncertain of your own ability to properly ground the suppressor, you should probably go with a power strip that plugs in with a three-prong plug, since the third prong grounds it for you.

u/ewleonardspock · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I tried putting my cable modem on a surge protector a while back, but it ended up messing up my lines or something, so I settled for the modem getting fried and bought this instead. It sits between the modem and router.

u/Aiml3ssCalam1ty · 1 pointr/techsupport

To answer '1', your speed would likely drop using the APC protector that is only rated at 10/100. It's possible that it won't and that they couldn't get high enough speeds to certify as 10/100/1000 but may still get pretty close.


To answer '2', yes you can absolutely use both cables. For short runs you won't notice any difference in speeds by mixing the cables. CAT6 is the same connections but using better shielding and twists the already twisted pairs to assist in being affected by interference over long distances.


To add a another option, you could use an in-line surge protector that is dedicated solely to the CAT connection. You connect both of your cables at either end and connect the ground cable to the ground prong on your outlet using a power cable that has the ground plug on it.

u/rockabillyjon · 1 pointr/battlestations

Gorgeous work!

May I recommend a right-angle surge protector?

u/Cello789 · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

Are there IEC cables with inline switches? I've done Raspberry Pi setups with an inline switch (on the USB power cable), but I would be terrified of soldering one to a fat IEC cable like pedal power supplies use... If it was a one-spot, I could do a rocker switch before the end, then daisy chain, but I don't want the noise (or spaghetti nest).

I'll look into mounting an extra strip or maybe a power conditioner at that point... connect the amp, elevenRack, pedal power, and then I'll be ready for potential rack fx or a behringer FBC1010...

Anyone use a Power Conditioner instead of surge protectors (when you have other rack gear to begin with)? If not, anyone notice difference between cheap vs expensive (or very expensive)surge protectors?

u/i_pk_pjers_i · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Okay, I definitely still have more questions and buckle in because there may be quite a few of them and I apologize for that but you didn't think you could change my mind, but we will see. I will try to explain my setup as detailed as possible. I will preface this by stating that I do believe I know more than the average user about electricity, but I certainly don't know a ton and I would like to know more as I have always been interested in electricity, technology, etc. I will also preface this by stating I live in North America, so American circuits information should be good for me.

My three circuits I use for electronics are always below 70% load and usually below 60% load I believe so that is a good start, certainly better than 90% load yeah? My UPSes are always under half load even when everything attached to them is at full load. My UPS I use is the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD - I have 4 of them in total, 3 in my house 1 in my cottage. We will focus on my home for now since my cottage is rarely used whereas I am always home. I have three UPSes each on one circuit - each connected to one wall outlet/plug/receptacle (whatever you want to call it) - I believe the total peak draw or whatever of the UPS is 15A. One UPS is plugged directly into the wall, the other two are plugged into a surge protector - one of the surge protectors is this one: and one is this one: - which one is better? After each of the 3 UPSes, they are plugged into a surge protector, and only ONE of the surge protectors has another surge protector plugged into it - I am out of outlets and I simply had to daisy-chain them, but I suppose I could rework my setup so there is no more daisy chaining.

For the maximum number of receptacles on a breaker/circuit, would receptacles be wall-plugs/outlets, or total number of devices connected to that circuit regardless of how they are connected? I assume that it would be total number of wall outlets, but I am not sure on that.

Again at stated earlier, my circuits are all well below 70% load at all times. I have not tripped any of my breakers since I have had 1 new breaker and circuit installed and one new breaker installed to replace an old one at my home, and one new breaker and circuit installed at my cottage - so that would suggest that they also are not being overloaded - unlike before but that is another story. I have ALWAYS known that tripping is bad, and recently in the last year I have taken it seriously enough to make sure something is done about it.

I have no idea what isolated ground is. I know the theory of ground to some extent and what noise is at least in regards to audio, but could you explain isolated ground and how to accomplish that etc?

As for removing my surge protectors in front of my UPSes, that is certainly something I can do, but I may need an extension cable for them - any issues with those? What guage should I be looking for to make sure a 15A UPS is okay? Can you link me to an example extension cable that you think would be suitable?

Also, what is worse in general - a surge protector in front of the UPS or behind the UPS (connected to the UPS) or are both bad? Basically, my UPS does not provide enough battery-backup plugs for me since it only has 8 and I have many more devices than that (although, I suppose I COULD technically unplug some of my devices and leave them unplugged), so should I plug a surge protector or just a power strip into the UPS and if so which particular model should I consider or would both a power strip or surge protector plugged into a UPS be a bad idea? In my current setup, is the number one "issue" the fact that there is one surge protector dasiy-chained into another surge protector?

As for lightbulbs, I have already replaced every single incandescent lightbulb with 9W or 18W LED bulbs at both my cottage and my home.

Any other general suggestions would be appreciated.

I think this is the closest I have come to the 10000 word limit on reddit, wow.

u/Vomari · 1 pointr/pics

I have three of these and I swear by them.

u/dwurl · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Thanks for the reply. I'll try and answer your questions as best I can.


The black wire terminal was in contact with the bare metal ground wire, at the time I turned the breaker back on, causing the event. The circuit in question (where I was working on the receptacle) tripped, as did 2 or 3 adjacent circuits. The adjacent circuits tripped after I put some load on them soon after correcting the receptacle I originally screwed up. They reset with no problem and I have been using them fine since then.


The protectors are your average $15-30 belkin and apc "surge protectors" such as this one: Amazon link . As well as a standard 6 outlet barebones power strip. These just simply do not work anymore as tested with a simple receptacle tester. My house certainly has only 120 and 240v.


I do not know what to inspect, which is why I will be calling an electrician. All circuits appear to be working fine, except for the microwave running on any circuit.

u/darament · 1 pointr/assholedesign

Yeah get rid of the cheap crappy plug strip and buy something thats of decent quality.

apc plug strip

u/saurabh69 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Thanks. What about this one? Will this do a better job? - (model P11VNT3), or the better priced


Perhaps i can begin by hooking power via such a source first, and over time plan to pass the coax and Ethernet through it too for incoming internet.

u/bud-- · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a few of these:
APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector 3020 Joules with Phone, Network Ethernet and Coaxial Protection, SurgeArrest Performance (P11VNT3)

I Also use these:

u/I_want_all_the_tacos · 1 pointr/headphones

I used to have really loud buzzing coming through my JBL LSR30X monitors ever since I moved into my new apt. This buzzing noise was not apparent in any of my headphones through my headphone amps, but all of the sources I used, when connected to my monitors cause a loud buzzing in the monitors that was always present even when music was playing through them. I have no idea if that is exactly what you are experiencing but I finally found out I have really dirty power in my new apt. I bought this APC surge protector with EMI filters and I have no more buzzing.

u/Notuniquesnowflake · 1 pointr/sonos

Whenever I encounter any kind of AV problem, just unplugging everything and plugging it back in works 95% of the time. So I connected everything to one power strip (similar to this one). When anything gets wonky, all I have to do is flip it on and off again.

u/JeeperGeek · 1 pointr/vinyl

APC Surgearrest 3020J -- 11 outlets, angled plug, swivel attachment to the surge protector itself. Good build quality.
See the Wirecutter's review for in-depth analysis.
Buy on Amazon - currently $26.49

u/Tobaccin · 1 pointr/audiophile

Was curious to hear what people's setups are like regarding surge protectors/power strips. I'm currently shopping for some surge protectors, something like this. Was wondering if people just plug everything into one. I'm talking about the TV, desktop computer, XBOX and other consoles, maybe even a laptop, printer, and the audio gear such as headphone amp + dac and speaker amps, etc. What do you guys use? Do you guys use a separate surge protector solely for your audio gear? Does it even matter, or should I just go for a 10+ outlet one and plug everything in and leave it at that?

u/newDieTacos · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the advice!

I have one of these Belkin surge protectors:

and one of these APC Surgearrest surge protectors:

As a side note, would my electrician be okay with me running the Romex (not connected on either end?

u/thx1138jr · 1 pointr/hometheater

It definitely is hard to make up your mind sometimes, especially once you catch the home theater bug. Take your time and read reviews. This is a great forum that will be able to answer all your question about everything home theater. ( In my theater I use pretty high end protectors from Brick Wall. Everywhere else I use these, which have gotten good reviews:

u/3wayhandshake · 1 pointr/audiophile

Those "Home Theater" power strips often test more poorly than very cheap ones.

For instance, this one at $26 tests better than that Belkin.

u/Incursus · 1 pointr/hometheater

I use a similar power strip to one of these:

It has a "master" socket that turns on whatever is plugged into the "slave" sockets when the device plugged into the master socket is turned on. I have my receiver plugged into the master and my amps and TV plugged into the slave sockets. Everything turns on and off with the receiver. It's simple, cheap, and works great.

u/Apostalos · 1 pointr/MAME
u/chudaism · 1 pointr/techsupport

You could always buy a master/secondary power bar/surge protector. They are pretty cheap.


u/mircolino · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I recycled an old 12V 1A transformer. After cutting the barrel connector I soldered the female half of the fan extension cable that came with one of Noctuas (kept only the black and yellow +12V wires).

Of course you can also buy the whole thing on amazon for $11 but where's the fun!

I then connected the fans power supply to a smart power strip piloted by the ThinkPad charger so, when I shutdown or put the laptop to sleep the external fans (along with my external monitors and audio amplifier) shutdown as well.

u/petascale · 1 pointr/hometheater

With something like this: When you switch on whatever is plugged into the 'master' outlet, the 'slave' outlets switch on as well.

u/hiding_from_my_gf · 1 pointr/buildapc

Look for any APC unit that has AT LEAST 1500 J (joules)

u/thkuntze · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind

Like this or this?

u/level3ninja · 1 pointr/electricians

I would suggest something like this for the speed control:

There are heaps of different fan speed control options for computers, just adapt one to your needs.

To switch them on you might want something like this:

u/Narcolepter · 1 pointr/electricians

I find that for me, these seem to be a better solution;

APC Power Saving Surge Protector


Utilitech Power Saving Surge Protector

There is a set of outlets that are controlled by either your tv or pc and a set that are always on. This is good because you want your tv and game systems and such to be cut off with the tv but you want a dvr to stay on to keep recording shows. Or your monitors and peripherals to turn off with pc but router and modem to stay on.

I bought two of the APC ones on clearance at Best Buy and have saved about 8-10 a month on my power bill. The UT you can buy in store at Lowe's and is essentially the same. I recommend either.

u/verrukt · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I'm young and unplug most things too. You can also find lots of surge protectors that come with remotes which is pretty convenient.

u/ReedRex · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Hm, my initial research would indicated that the powered USB is an always on feature. I have found no indications of being able to turn it off. I use one of these to help control my systems power vampirism. I bet this would work out well for you. Just one more switch to turn off at end of day.

Edit: this would not let you sleep and wake with keyboard. You would be doing a full shutdown or hibernate on each power off.

u/YMGenesis · 1 pointr/MAME

Pricey, but I used this Belkin remote power bar. I simply mounted its remote to the top of my cab, flip the switch, and everything turns on.

u/headinthered · 1 pointr/cordcutters

We bought a killawatt to see where power was being wasted and a belkin remote controlled power strip for our Home entertainment system in once we started using it it we noticed a dramatic difference in her electric bill

P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor

Belkin 8-Outlet Conserve Switch Surge Protector with 4-Foot Cord and Remote, F7C01008q

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/gadgets

I've had the Belkin power-strip with remote for a few years and I love it. Trick is to place the switch were you'll utilize it most. i switch mine off when I leave and when I go to bed.

  1. 40" Vizio
  2. Laptop
  3. Bose desktop speakers
  4. 2 phone chargers
  5. Quadcore android mini computer

    Some wall switches are integrated with a wall outlet, you can always plug in a power strip to one of those too.
u/grifter600 · 1 pointr/AnimeFigures

I got one of these

I hit this switch instead of the ceiling might switch.

u/RufussSewell · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Belkin 8-Outlet Conserve Switch Surge Protector with 4-Foot Cord and Remote, F7C01008q

u/oftheterra · 1 pointr/windows

I use this.

u/shadedream · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

An easier route than doing monitor surgery (motherboards make it easier by having a header), I went with one of these:

I have all of my monitors, DAC, speakers and subwoofer on it. I'd imagine you could pop open the remote housing and wire up MX switches to the PCB pretty easily (and now it's sounding like not such a bad idea to do with mine...)

u/One_L · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Used one of these, slapped the remote switch on the top of the cabinet(cant see it while playing). . Still need to use the shutdown option on the retropie software to safely shutdown the pi, though I have not had any issues when its been shutdown incorrectly yet.

It isnt perfect as I have a floor lamp with a remote that apparently shares the same frequency, thus the cabinet sometimes turns on when I turn the light on. Unfortunately it also sometimes turns off when someone turns the light off..

u/radreck · 1 pointr/laptops

I really wouldn't be playing games on the plane. More for doing some light productivity (Word, Excel, Visual Studio) or possibly videos, but for videos I have the iPad with 8-ish hours battery life.

For any real work or gameplay, you're correct I'd be tethered to a wall.

Flying Virgin America though, they have the power outlets next to every seat, even in coach, so there's that. I'm not sure how many other airlines have that.

You can definitely eke out another 30-60 minutes by dropping the brightness quite a bit. Windows 10 makes this easy with the Action Center where there is a shortcut to cycle through display modes.

Basically, if you can wait, wait. As with most tech, the model you buy is always obsolete a few months later.

I always carry a portable Belkin 3-Outlet mini-surge protector (Amazon link) in my backpack. That way, if the power outlet at the airport or coffee shop is in use, I ask one of the people plugged in if I can interrupt their work for a few seconds to add the surge protector and get myself some juice.

If you really need a mobile productivity machine, I'd say wait for the new MacBooks which Apple should release soon. They'll get 8 hours of battery life easily, however for gaming they may not be optimal. I think the current MacBooks are using nVidia, so there's a small chance they switch to AMD for the next round as they seem to flip flop now and then between refreshes. Ideally, nVidia releases the GTX 1050 and Apple actually uses them.

u/UnchainedMelodee · 1 pointr/gadgets

Strongly recommend the Belkin 3-outlet 2.1A power strip. It comes with two USB ports, is very compact, and comes with a pivoting head so you can fit it into any outlet situation. Please be careful to get the 2.1A model, especially if you have a tablet. Double check, but most electronics now are dual voltage and will be marked 110-240V to indicate that. Phone/laptop/tablet/camera chargers, electric toothbrush, etc. are commonly dual voltage. If you find that you only have, say, an electric razor that needs US juice, you're probably better off replacing the razor. Just get a plug adaptor, which will cover you in Western Europe except for UK and Switzerland. The simpler the plug adaptor, the better it will hold, as the multi-country ones have lots of internal prongs that you don't need.

u/SlappyMcWaffles · 1 pointr/trashy

Replace her charger for your own and promptly make eye contact. And without breaking, slide that motherfucker as far away from you as you can. Making sure not to toss it at someone else's feet. Perhaps under some furniture.

EDIT: I travel a bit. And travel power strips will make you the most popular person in the terminal. (NOTE:Write your name on it or some identifying mark)

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/Cruise

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Belkin 3-Outlet Surge Protector

|Country|Link|Charity Links|

To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/nanio0300 · 1 pointr/electricians

you could also for about the same price as USB receptacles get a small 3-4 outlet power strip with USB outlets build in. As a bonus they usually are also surge suppressors.

u/zigzagzig · 1 pointr/pics
u/nero147 · 1 pointr/onebag

my recommendation would be to grab a surge protector and an adapter. That's what I usually do. I used to use this one. adapter It swivels, but my button it was really stiff. Also the plug doesn't fold down which irritated me a bit and I swapped it out for one that did. Edit: This one looks better. It has only two ports, but surge protection and a 3000mah battery which is cool. I think I'm going to grab one to replace my monster strip.

u/RoombaCultist · 1 pointr/woodworking

It sounds like you're wanting to mount a wall outlet + USB outlet into your table, and then run a cord from the table to the wall outlet, right? I'm considering doing this for a project as well and am definitely going to use a usb wall outlet, and then strip an extension cord (or get one of those fancy braided fabric cords), to run from the table to the wall. It will require wiring, but I figure that's an important skill to learn, as I can add similar outlets all kinds of places like my computer desk, workbench, or the wheeled kitchen island. There are lots of guides out there, and even though it's new to me, I'm sure it can be learned if I put some time into it. I'm getting over the fear of cutting my fingers off in woodworking by learning best practices and learning respect for the tools, I can do the same with electricity (and zapping my whole self, not just my fingers).

I'll also be able to add light switch boxes to homemade gizmos like on all of Matthias' machines. I really like how he has set up one switch to turn on both his sander and dust collector!

If you're hell-bent against wiring, you could try something like one of these travel surge protectors, mine has been good to me for years worth of use, but I feel like the trouble of mounting this elegantly would be much more hard work than learning to wire an outlet!

u/AXXXXXXXXA · 1 pointr/electricians

Replacing bc old outlet lost its grip.

So then this on top

Belkin SurgePlus USB Swivel Surge Protector and Charger (Power strip with 3 AC Outlets, 2 USB Ports 2.1 AMP / 10 Watt) and rotating plug

And this on bottom outlet should be ok?

Belkin 12-Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector w/ 8ft Cord – Ideal for Computers, Home Theatre, Appliances, Office Equipment and more (3,940 Joules)

u/cmnthom · 1 pointr/Cruise

> I plan on taking this with me on a cruise in a month, and am hoping it will be fine:

This is the best one.

u/danimarie72 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Balloons are fun ! :D I think we should both be gifted something useful, such as this power outlet. I don't know about you, but I know I always lose those USB blocks haha. I hope your birthday is wonderful <3

u/itsclubberintime · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

I carry one of these in my laptop bag at all times, not just when I travel.

u/jarechiga85 · 1 pointr/Roku

I used to have it like that, them I started to hate the booting sound. Now I have a small surge suppressor with USB power outlet behind the screen. No more booting sound.

u/moralsareforstories · 1 pointr/iphone

It's not either of the two you posted, but I have this and it's been great (plus, I make many friends at the airport):

u/drtonmeister · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you switch to the outlet-mount style surge-protector example it will be held in place to the outlet with the center cover-plate screw in the outlet yoke.

Otherwise, place the screws for the keyholes in a spot where there is a ceiling joist to hold them up, rather then merely drywall. If you must make a hole where there is only drywall, use a drywall anchor with appropriate screw.

u/Goat_187 · 1 pointr/AirBnB

After 2 people ask me if I had travel adapter to charge their iphones, I just installed this in one of the outlets by the night stand.

it has the added benefit that it screws into the wall and less likely to be taken.

u/pashpacino · 1 pointr/personalfinance

Have you considered this:

It gives you $50K of insurance as well.

u/jb4647 · 1 pointr/houston

Get yourself one of these

u/FrozenIceman · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yes, they are definitely worth it. I recommend one of these (they make a 1000 watt version that I use). Drastically increases life of PSU. Also has easy replaceable batteries (should be available at best buy).

I put 1000 watt version on all our PC's, and a 1500 Watt version on our home theater/entertainment system.

Also if you can, install this into your main panel, full home surge protector. Tis highly recommended and relatively cheap (takes two breakers).

Should be available at home depot, is fairly easy to install, but because electricity I recommend paying an electrician for half hour of work to install it.

u/thesourceshow · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You could also buy a smart outlet strip. There is one control plug that is monitored. When you turn that device off it shuts off the other plugs and vice versa. TrickleStar 7 Outlet Advanced PowerStrip, 1080 Joules, 3ft cord

u/ocinn · 1 pointr/audiophile

I use this. $13. Has adjustable trigger.

u/bobbaddeley · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

Look for a master-controlled power strip. It's a normal power strip except that one outlet is the master, and when its power consumption goes above a threshold then it turns on the other outlets. That way when the TV is off as the master, the other outlets are off. When you press the remote and the TV goes on it uses more power, triggering the strip to turn on the other outlets. They are readily available and work really well. I have one for my entertainment center and one for my desk.

u/ze_ex_21 · 1 pointr/cade

"When you turn off your [PC], the power supplied to switched outlets is removed" (The PC is plugged into the 'Master' outlet.)

One example

u/i336_ · 1 pointr/techsupportmacgyver

That's interesting.

I just realized my original comment may have been misunderstood.

The "sense" socket that I described is not actually switched off at any time. The idea is that whatever is plugged into that socket gets continuous unimpeded power so that the IR detection is powered up and you can use the remote, at which point the board's current sensing notices the extra power draw and switches the other sockets on. And to clarify, the TV goes in the sense socket, the backlight power supply goes in one of the switched sockets.

For context this is the cheapest one I found on Amazon, just to identify what one looks like (it labels what I'm calling the "sense socket" the "control socket"):

I'm also very curious about what you said about the TV. It sounds like you may have gotten those two buttons to push out of the service manual, and already done that digging. What's the actual error code? That's fascinating and I wonder why it's happening.

Finally, if you do decide the relay solution is the way to go, you may end up appreciating posting to /r/electronics - finding 12V that's only energized when the rest of the TV is on sounds like a small rainy day project :P

u/ricksebak · 1 pointr/linux4noobs

I'm going to assume that this computer is an HTPC, and that it doesn't need to be powered on unless the TV is also powered on, and that the TV/receiver are used exclusively for the HTPC.

The way I solved this had nothing to do with Linux config at all. I just use a smart power strip. It detects when the HTPC is powered off, and then also powers off the TV and the receiver. And then when I turn the HTPC on, the power strip turns on the TV and receiver. Probably not the type of answer you were looking for, but it's low tech, it works, and it saves energy. Make sure you use hibernate (or power off) instead of sleep.

This isn't the exact power strip I use, but it's an example of what I'm talking about:

u/shithawksthrowaway · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Saucer - Big enough for the smart pot?
Remove excess water - Bucket Head
Pots off floor - Something like this?
powerstrip with built in timer - Found - Why use this over a stand alone timer? how many things need to be timed out?

u/JLHamiltoni · 1 pointr/reptiles

In my decade of experience, digital always breaks, but also the "reptile" branded ones are crap no matter what.

Get the mechanical one with the wheel and pegs, I just searched on Amazon and it has lasted for a few years so far.

This one:

u/Zupa_jajkowa · 1 pointr/turtle

Here is my setup!

Turtle: Female Northern Diamondback Terrapin currently at 4.5” shell length, will grow to 9”

Tank: 55 gallons

Lights: Zoo Med Aquatic Turtle UVB & Heat Lighting Kit

Filter: Penn Plax Cascade 1500 Canister Aquarium Filter

Heater: Fluval M Submersible Heater 200 Watt

Light Timer: Century 8 Outlet Surge Protector with Mechanical Timer

Basking area: Egg crate and zip ties, with flat rock inside

Live plants: 2 Anubias and 1 unknown

Substrate: Black Diamond Medium Blasting Abrasives

Crushed Coral: Carib Sea Florida Crushed Coral

Driftwood: petco

Rocks: local fish store

Water: tap water treated with ReptiSafe® Water Conditioner

u/squeekypig · 1 pointr/turtle

Whoa whoa whoa-

>Is that because I had my filter plugged into a smart power strip, plugged into another older power-strip which was in turn plugged into the big fat yellow GFCI adapter brick?


I'm not an electrician, but I know you should never plug in a power strip to another power strip. You can plug a power strip into the GFCI adapter, but no power strips into that power strip. From your other post it looks like you did this because of the lights needing to be on a timer, but there are timed power strips that have 1 side for a timer and the other side switched (always on/off), like this one.


I wouldn't blame your heater/filter just yet because your electrical setup sounds suspicious. I 100% recommend calling an electrician to check out your setup, especially before you go buying other products. ^((Although the fluval fx line of filters are awesome)) Additional or other products probably won't help if there's an issue with how your cords/power strips are set up.


I'm also not sure how you were priming your filter, or how that would cause an issue unless you were splashing water around or there were exposed wires or something? Was the filter turned on when you were closing it? Usually you need to close the filter and hosing before turning the filter on. For example, my filter that isn't self priming I would fill with water manually, secure the top with the intake closed and output open, turn it on then immediately open the intake. The filter was sitting in a bucket to catch water while I manually filled it and put the lid on, like you described I think, but there was no way for water to come in contact with anything electrical on it or the power cord. Is there a drip loop in the cord?


Anyway I'm really sorry that happened to you, and I hope you can get it figured out soon!


edit to add: I saw on your other post to a different sub something about the filter motor housing was faulty/leaky? Or the filter lid? The o-rings/gaskets on canister filters should be replaced every year, or at least checked/lubricated to make sure they're still making a tight seal. There could be a bunch of o-rings but usually there'll at least be one with the motor housing and one with the main canister lid. If your o-rings aren't making a good seal they could be letting air into the canister or water into the motor housing. Even if there's something wrong with your filter causing all this I'd still consult an electrician. Better safe than sorry, and if you don't do the wiring right your homeowner/renter's insurance probably wouldn't cover any fires or damages that would result.

u/pornfed_Iowan · 1 pointr/battlestations

I can definitely take a few pictures for you. Give me a little bit and I'll post them.

Hardly anything shows under the desk. The main artery of cables are running along the back of the desk. Fastened to the underside is mainly the keyboard/mouse cables, usb extension (I superglued a 4 port usb hub to the front of the desk), and the cable running to my Z906 controller (also glued to the desk).

This is a life saver that any battlestation owner should be aware of!

u/ShacklefordLondon · 1 pointr/woodworking

Looks good!

I screwed a 10-12 outlet power strip (like this) onto the base of mine and that's been really convenient for all the various things I've had plugged in.

u/relikborg · 1 pointr/battlestations
u/Sup909 · 1 pointr/synthesizers

I use something like this. Opentron OT4126 Metal Surge Protector Power Strip 4 Feet 12 Outlet

u/daveqsang · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use this. Not quite 15, but it works great and has a good 400 joule rating. The one you link to doesn't have a joule rating listed, so slightly concerning unless you have separate surge protection?

u/aziridine86 · 1 pointr/hardware

If I was going to do this and didn't know how to terminate Ethernet cables and didn't have a big budget, I would get one of these plus two of these.

Put one surge protector at each end of the outdoor cable, and make sure the bolt hole in each surge protector is connected to an electrical ground with a good copper cable.

But it depends if you need something that is going to last a few months or if you need it to last multiple years.

u/The_Junky · 1 pointr/buildapc

i bought one of these and asked my aunt to bring it

but as u/Deccarin has said, might not be enough to stop such a huge amount of energy. I would have thought the wires on cat5 would be thin enough to burn out before transfering the surge, but i was obviously wrong.

u/pogidaga · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If you go with copper, install lightning protection at each end of the cable, as close as possible to where it enters the building. Run a #14AWG or bigger copper ground wire from the protector to a suitable grounding place like an existing ground rod or a buried metal water pipe or a piece of rebar sticking up from a concrete foundation. Make the ground wire as short and as straight as practicable. Here's a cheap Ethernet surge suppressor.

u/bluestreak_v · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Thanks. I didn't realize running ethernet cable outdoors, even when using outdoor grade cable, could be so risky. While I'm naturally getting the Unifi 8-150W switch for the main house, I'm reluctant to get another SFP switch for the lane way house - mostly for cost reasons. Besides the AP, I doubt I'd have more than 2 ethernet ports in that lane way, so an 8 port switch with SFP would be somewhat wasted with so much excess capacity.

As an alternative, could I just use ethernet surge protectors? Maybe on both ends? Oh look, Ubiquiti even sells PoE surge protectors too!

u/ElectricalOThrowAway · 1 pointr/electrical
u/bobby-t1 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This is the one:
Eaton 109420 Ultra Surge Protection 3Rd Edition

u/SharpieThunderflare · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Power strips would be helpful in your situation. Comes with the added benefit of surge protection.

u/Darkdayzzz123 · 1 pointr/technology

If you have things plugged into a surge protector that could also be a problem point. I should've said that as well.

So if you do have the TV / lights plugged into a surge protector you may want to try a different one as well.

Amazon has a two pack for cheap (can never have enough surge protectors)

u/orion71 · 1 pointr/hometheater

I went with whole house protection (plus decent power strips for the TV, AVR, etc. and a UPS for my server).


u/Moscato359 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/--darkstar__ · 1 pointr/Calgary
u/jryanishere · 1 pointr/hometheater

Don't sissy out on the whole home surge.

Get this

Coupled with this.

u/jerstud56 · 1 pointr/wyzecam

No it's not. I have a whole home one for close to $115.

EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate Surge Protection 3rd Edition, 2.38" Length, 5.25" Width 7.5" Height

u/oouter · 1 pointr/homelab

I just ordered one from Amazon since my local homedepot was sold out. Ended up getting the "Ultra" model. Was a bit more expensive, but it provides more protection too.

u/guchdog · 1 pointr/homedefense

I wouldn't worry too much about it. But they do sell ethernet surge protectors.

u/TheOGHalalGuy · 1 pointr/buildapc

Do you happen to know waht could have caused this? I went to sleep with the power supply working completely. I have a new seasonic titanium. I had it plugged into this 200 joule outlet with the rest of the slots with my monitor and other peripherals:

Is there any other information I can provide so you could somehow diagnose why this happened?

u/Rogue3StandingBy · 1 pointr/houston

That's a great question actually. Here's a good example.

Here's a typical home 'surge protector', but they are only rated for 200 joules.

The thing to understand is that surge protectors can protect via several different methods, but the most common is for it to essentially fry the internal protection. You have to think of the rating kind of like the health meter in a video game. If you have a 1,000 joule surge protector, its probably wasted after ten hits of 100 joules.

If you want something that will protect expensive stuff from lightning, you're looking for something with a rating in the multiple thousands of joules. Like here's an example that's rated for 3,330.

Of course, there's more to it if you want to read about amp ratings and such, but that's the quick rundown.

This is why everyone's home router or printer seems to die every time a lightning storm comes around. Because they are plugged into a surge protector that likely had a very low rating, and its been in use for years and years.

/source: Am an IT guy with a computer science degree who routinely has to deal with server rooms and networking equipment that has to be protected.

u/realme123 · 1 pointr/PS4

Nothing against you but i always wonder why people dont buy those 10$ protective power supply again lightning ? Save my computer one time :)

You know something like that =>

u/zakabog · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

> Building my first PC and a thought that keeps coming to mind is what surge protector or UPC I should use for it.

Here's a pretty good article describing what surge protection means. Your household strips might be fine but if you want to be safe, actual surge protectors aren't expensive.

u/guitarmaniac116 · 1 pointr/DIY

I just bought a standing desk and need to have a high powered PC, two monitors, and a high powered laptop on it. I need to have a surge protector (for the 4-5 necessary plugs) on the desk but the surge protector is not long enough to be on the desk and reach our wall outlet. Is it safe to have an extension cord running from the wall to the desk and a surge protector plugged into the extension cord? I will be rendering 3d images/game developing so these computers will be working overtime, including fan usage.

Setup looks like this:

These are what I am working with:

Edit: Should I use something like this instead of the flat extension cord?

u/ChefJoe98136 · 1 pointr/electricians

Some power strips have a breaker integrated into the power strip, separate from the one at your electrical panel. Examples (they can be reset via the rocker switch, although sometimes there's a pop-up thing on the strip) -

Overload protection: 15-amp circuit breaker

Red "protected" LED indicator light with 15-Amp circuit breaker to signify you are protected

u/SimplyAdept · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yeah I personally wouldn't use that. Just measure up how much cable length you need a purchase something like this.

u/JWankster · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace


AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, 790 Joule - White

It’s highly recommended to plug in just about your whole pc setup into one to protect your computer and devices in case of a power surge.

u/neonsaber · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

Shopping list;

AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, 6-Foot Long Cord, 790 Joule - White

VIVOSUN 4 inch Inline Duct Booster Fan 100 CFM, Extreme Low Noise & Extra Long 5.5' Grounded Power Cord

VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan Pre-Filter Included

Hydrofarm TM01015D Dual Outlet Grounded Timer

LED Lights Strip 5M 5050 SMD Waterproof 150LEDs RGB Color Changing Flexible LED Light Strip Kit

COB LED Grow Light, Niello Full Spectrum Grow Lights for Indoor Plants, Higher Light-Gathering, Space Saving and Easy to Install, Professional Greenhouse Hydroponic Indoor Plants(150W)

Not included; tin tape, duct tape, 2" curved pvc tubes x3, zip ties, hot glue, and the Rubbermaid wheeled bin + lid.

u/viners · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

Would this still be an issue if I were only plugging in EVGA computer PSUs? Those come with overcurrent protection I believe and won't pull more than what they're rated at. If not, would any of these work?



Or even a cheap thing like this?


Thank you!

u/thisuseris_taken · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
u/OldIT · 1 pointr/homelab

Not sure what poe switch you have but you may want to try a different switch and use a POE injector/splitter as a test.
I use these with cheap tp-link switches...

Also ... I power all my cams with a old Dell GX series power supply using those Injector/splitter and use a Ubiquiti Networks ETH-SP Poe External Surge Suppressor before the switch/injector.

Why ... we are on top of the ridge take a lot of lightning strikes near by.

u/shuddertostink · 0 pointsr/livesound

You know, at some point I probably should have figured out what the power requirements for our rig was, but really at the end of the day it's not like the halls were going to change their wiring for us (and I wasn't doing a permanent install).

I eventually got sick of the spaghetti balls of cables, extenders, strips etc and ended up using this and [these] ( and they really made life a lot easier, combined with a couple super long cables to avoid having to use breakout boxes.

u/riddet · 0 pointsr/homelab

Some of the lightning protection devices have hefty earth connectors, for example:

I assume this is to provide a more attractive path. In the case of the media converter solution you just need to ensure they have similar earth connections (or at least the 'upstream' one)

u/shatel86 · -1 pointsr/buildapc

Get this:

My friend uses it to protect his audio production equipment. At this price it's a no-brainer. Handles up to 1200W.

u/RewindRepeatIt · -3 pointsr/Assistance

Merry Christmas OP!

I'm trying to get DJ equipment to start my dream of being a DJ. It's kinda already started because through lots of legwork and thrift-store shopping I managed to get some barely-passable home audio stuff, but it can't take the strain of DJing and can't be used for anything larger than ~40 people. I've had to turn down gigs because of it and judging by how frickin' hot it gets after I play for a few hours, it's going to be dead soon.

I made an Amazon list of what I need to buy to be at a semi-professional level. The cheapest thing that's independently useful would be the microphone, I believe, but literally anything is greatly appreciated, even if it's just a cord for something I don't have yet or something. The speakers are the most important thing by far, but they're extremely expensive. - Dynamic microphone (the condenser mics pick up all the background noise and are way more prone to feedback) - Pop cover that would fit that mic - Mixer (without it the speakers and stuff won't work) - Professional software (the one I currently use is free software lacking a lot of the functionality of this) - Production software - Cheap keyboard MIDI with a drum pad to use with FL Studio - Monitor speakers - Cords for the montiors (I'd need 2) - Mackie Thump15s w/ cases and stands - Cables for the speakers and subwoofer - Subwoofer - Stand for the subwoofer - Lighting truss - Colored lights (it would need 2) - Strobe lights (2 as well) - Hooks for the lighting (1 per light, 4 total) - Security hooks for the lights (to save the lights if they fall from the hooks) - Powerstrip (I'd need 2) - Laptop/controller stand - 4-deck controller - Case for the controller

Not going for a sob story here, but rather explanation of why I don't have money to spend on this stuff - I've got no family and I've got Lyme's Disease which I wasn't allowed to treat back when I had a family (strictly against modern medicine) and now can't treat because of an error made on my government-provided health insurance that's so far been going on for 8 months and is yet to be fixed. Lyme destroys your joints, so standing and walking for a retail job (not yet out of college) is extremely painful for days afterwards. Once I get treatment I'm going to put my nose to the grindstone and get two jobs to finance it, but still, anything helps. If you go through my post history you'll see mention of a few Christmas gifts, specifically a set of headphones, and those are from friends. I really really really appreciate them because they put a lot of thought into them and read reviews and all, but I wound up not being able to use them, but instead returned them and spent the money on a professional set of headphones, which is why there are no headphones on that list of links.