Best tap & die sets according to redditors

We found 61 Reddit comments discussing the best tap & die sets. We ranked the 37 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Tap & Die Sets:

u/lepfrog · 5 pointsr/Tools

I would recommend this gear wrench set at $88 it is about at its cheapest price ever. I grabbed one a few months back and so far am happy with it.

u/Racer-X- · 4 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

"Damaged nut extractor socket."

Amzn.com/B007C6KKAK is an example of a set.

The cheaper ones on Amazon usually work for a single use (maybe), and the inner points get flattened so they won't grip as well if you use them again. The better kits (the one I liked to is borderline) will last a long time and have a "lifetime guarranty."

u/reynokri · 4 pointsr/boostedboards

Happened to me about 2 years ago. This was how Boosted responded when I asked if it was something I could fix myself. Still works great since then.

"sorry about the striped motor mounts. We have that happen occasionally here and that can be fixed with a 8-32 helicoil kit and a tap handle. I found an example of each to reference on amazon. 


http://www.amazon.com/PowerCoil-8-32-Thread-Repair-Insert/dp/B007N6T9OC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1410384012&sr=8-6&keywords=helicoil+8-32


http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21916-T-Handle-through/dp/B0002YUVSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410384083&sr=8-1&keywords=tap+handle

"

u/archontwo · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Sounds like you put the screw in on the wrong threads. If you are lucky it is just the screw damaged and you can replace that. If on the other hand you damaged the case then you are going to need the right sort of tap

The cheapest solution though would to leave off the troublesome screw and just have 3. The case is well made and so even 2 screws diagonally opposite would probably do.

Good luck.

u/slim_jahey · 4 pointsr/Tools

Tap socket? Or are they too thick as well? Lisle LI70500 Tap Socket Set https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002SRFOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D-qDzb8YPT6AM

u/professor__doom · 4 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Drill and tap it, thread a bolt in, then pull it out. Slide hammer might be helpful.

If you can use a left-handed tap, you MIGHT even be able to get the lugnut loose in the process: turning left to tighten the left-handed bolt will also work to loosen the lugnut. Don't overdo it, because if you snap, strip, or break the left-handed bolt, you're now well and truly screwed.

Next time, use a 1/2 inch socket. Or better yet, a damaged bolt/nut remover socket (I own this set and it's saved my life.)

There are even larger ones made specifically for lug nuts

Or even bet

u/machinerer · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

There are tap sockets are made by Lisle and a few other companies. Taps fit snugly in them (there is an internal o-ring that squeezes on the tap). Very handy for tight access tap work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRFOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0UmlDbHFE7MCS

u/zerox600 · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

I crashed my drone into cement and ground the shafts of my motors in a way that filled the threads with junk metal. After thinking I needed a new bell (from china), or a new motor (8 more dollars than the bell from USA). My father in law recommended a tap and die to try and fix the one I have. I found a set on amazon for the same price as a motor, and, if it worked, I could use it to fix this issue everytime versus buying a new part. It also goes well with a 3D printer for threading parts. The fix was successful, including chasing the threads on the old prop nut. I flew several(7) packs to test it and it has held up great so far. It also breaks down nice and small. The handles unscrew from the tap and die mounts. It comes as a kit with M3 to M12 taps and does, as well as a thread gauge if you are unsure how coarse or fine your threads are. Here is a non affiliate link for the one I got from amazon. Tap and Die set

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Irwin seems to be be very well liked in this arena.
http://amzn.com/B0000DD4KW

u/ccosby · 3 pointsr/Tools

Irwin hanson is the oem vendor from my understanding for them and some others(at least most of the kits). I believe that they used to use Vermont American although I think a lot of their stuff got shifted overseas.

I have one kit from snap on as it was around the same price(one of the smaller thread repair kits). The rest of my stuff is irwin hanson.

Edit: Look at these
https://www.amazon.com/HANSON-Machine-Fractional-Metric-26377/dp/B0000DD4KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509919322&sr=8-1&keywords=irwin+hanson+tap+and+die+set&dpID=51ZxfeomcjL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://store.snapon.com/SAE-Metric-Combination-Set-76-pc-Combination-Tap-and-Die-Set-P644739.aspx

The biggest difference is that the irwin has drill bits in the top of the case(and the snap on case has room for it). That and color.

I'm under the impression irwin hanson is the one actually making it.

u/myst3k · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I guess he doesn't know thats what bolt-outs are for! They carry them at most of the local auto shops, autozone, pepboys, advance auto. Had to use them a few times when I lost my lugnut key...

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Bolt-out-Piece-Damaged-Remover/dp/B007C6KKAK/

u/BrofessorX · 2 pointsr/Tools

I like that Irwin kit. I use this set. They make it in metric too but the huot metal case is nice and it has the drill bits next to your tap. You could buy the sae and metric tap sets ($50 each) with an irwin die set and be in at about $150.

http://www.amazon.com/Coarse-Thread-Tap-Drill-drills/dp/B00L5H223U

u/FPFan · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

> Thank you for calling me a good pen maker.

That is a label you brought on yourself :)

> However the next thing i want to get is a thread gauge.

One of the basic flip out style, like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Degree-Thread-Measuring-Imperial/dp/B07D9MNDL6 ? Those are invaluable as you try and figure things out, I also like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-77106-Universal-Thread-Gauge/dp/B005I51BX2 for having hanging above the lathe.

But you have your priorities in the right spot, get a lathe sorted and then move on to other things!

u/TThe-Mechanic · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice
u/Libertechian · 2 pointsr/Tools

Manual t-handle? You could leave it somewhat loose and slip it over the top.



Hanson 12002 T-Handle Tap Wrenches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YOB1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FPqDzbS5H4CYM

u/GruntledMisanthrope · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

Considering where they drilled that hole, I don't see a problem with the frame.

An easy-out will probably back the broken bolt right out, and if it doesn't it can be drilled through easily enough. Or use Pclips on the seatstay to mount your rack. But the bike is fine, if you like it definitely don't ditch it.

u/laz45 · 2 pointsr/Tools
u/Bossendorfer · 2 pointsr/Tools

For that price you won't get anything high-end, but you could get a decent Irwin set.
IRWIN Tools 76 Piece Machine Screw/Fractional/Metric Tap and Hex Die Super Set (26376) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000EI9AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FjGyybPP6KVMF

u/PaulyDeensAbButter · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Start with the nicest body you can afford. Put most of your money in the body to start with so you have a solid foundation. Don't just throw it all into the motor and cobble a car together around it. What you don't want is a rusty frame that needs lots of expensive body work (expensive and time-consuming even to do it yourself).
-It will always take more money and time than you think it will.
-You can't turn chicken shit into chicken salad. Start with chicken salad and make a nice sandwich.
-Don't forget to include the cost of specialized tools that you'll need along the way.
-Get the engine running / car moving first, then worry about the rest.
-Learn how to properly drill out snapped bolts and how to retap threads.
Highly recommend crc cutting oil (can get at harbor freight) , and this set of taps, dies, and bits: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000DD4KW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426864646&sr=8-1&keywords=Irwin+26377&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

If this is your first project, I'd start with something that already runs and moves, and needs minimal body work.

u/FOXTI2OT · 2 pointsr/reloading

Why would you buy a new die? There is a kit for removing stuck dies.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6ZJQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will need a tap wrench.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOB1/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are plenty of videos of how to use this stuff to remove a case.. Dies are fine, no need to replace.

u/djjoshuad · 2 pointsr/turning

it's definitely a simple build. the tapping part is maybe the simplest part, heh. it's intimidating (at least it was for me the first time) since it's out of our normal realm, but tbh metal is a lot like really hard, dense wood. you can drill it, cut it, sand it, etc. you just need the right tools. For this purpose, I used a drill/tap set like this one and a tap wrench like this (though that tap wrench kinda sucks). use a little tap fluid and go slow. back it out every couple turns or any time you feel significant resistance, wipe the tap quickly on a cloth or something, then thread it right back in and keep going. it's so much easier than it seems :)

u/distantlistener · 1 pointr/mazda3

I'm a bit surprised by how empty I've come up with searching for in-stock stuff local to you. Looks like there's a Fastenal near you that could have a tap shipped (kind of expensive); Amazon's got an off-brand pair that is eligible for one-day shipping (for me, at least). You could get that and an inexpensive set -- for the tool handle.

Wherever you ultimately get a tap and die, remember to pace yourself: drizzle [cutting] oil or penetrating oil, chase a little into the resistance; back off, chase a little; back off, wipe/blow out the shavings; rinse and repeat until the chasing is smooth.

u/AbysmalVixen · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I bought these standoffs for a test bench I was working on at one point and they worked fine. Even comes with screws

Also got a tap and die to make new holes cause I was making it work with a laptop board (lasted a while until I fried it)

u/bcardarella · 1 pointr/homegym

This is the Powertec Workbench Half Rack. It is listed for sale at $599: https://www.net2fitness.com/powertec-workbench-half-rack.html

You're getting a 67% discount. I would check the condition of it before handing over any cash. According to the site I linked the weight capacity is 1,000lb and 400lb for the pullup bar.

Good luck!

Edit: The image of what I linked to has additional accessories attached. The pic notes that these accessories are not included, just the rack.

Here is an Amazon page if you'd like to see reviews: https://www.amazon.com/Powertec-Fitness-Workbench-Half-Rack/dp/B00S4LKN04

u/peptide2 · 1 pointr/stcatharinesON

You can rent or buy a pipe threader and then sell it https://www.amazon.ca/Plumber-Threading-Threader-Tapping-Forming/dp/B07NL5DGMX

u/dsmaxwell · 1 pointr/Cartalk

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007C6KKAK Use this, or something similar. Either buy regular lug nuts to replace the lockers, or buy a new set of lockers to replace them, it will come with a key that fits.

Personally, I'd go with the regular lug nuts, cause the only people those lockers will stop are people who care about damaging the vehicle, which is limited to you pretty much. They're not even going to slow down a decent thief if they decide they want your wheels.

u/Mortimer452 · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I had the same problem when I went to remove mine. I had one if these in much smaller sizes in my toolbox, one of them happened to be just the right size and finally got it out.

My next attempt was going to use one of these, I've had pretty good luck with them in the past. They have a drill bit on one end and extractor on the other - drill first, then flip it over and insert the extractor. The drill part is reverse-threaded so sometimes it bites hard enough to back it out without even using the extractor. GO SLOW and apply lots of feed pressure.

u/110691 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Whenever I've restored bikes I've gone and bought stainless steel Allen head bolts, using a screwdriver to measure length and one of these for the gauge and pitch.

u/waynep712222 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

straight fluted easy out.. a set of tap sockets.. tap sockets are specials for use with threading taps.. there is a chance one will fit the straight fluted easy out..

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-53645-Straight-Extractors/dp/B001MXRPXY

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-9030-Extractor-5-Piece/dp/B00IYTFSM4?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21872-Straight-Extractor/dp/B000CEMSHM?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

tap sockets... https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-70500-Tap-Socket-Set/dp/B0002SRFOE/

so you can get a socket on it way down the spark plug hole..

chances are somebody cross threaded the spark plug and just cranked it in till it almost broke.. or you exerted enough force when it seized taking it out.. that you snapped the spark plug in half.

u/smittyjones · 1 pointr/Tools

They're good quality, but usually not worth the price when you compare them to non-tool truck brands. Most of the Snap On stuff I have I bought used. Like the tap and die set, it's virtually identical to other sets (like this Irwin), but it costs $400+. I bought it "used" from someone for $200. A lot of the tool truck tools are like this, either made by OTC or some other company and rebranded for their brand.

But the Snap On ball joint press really is far far far better than any other ball joint press out there. Most use a series of stepped plates and hollow cylinders and you have to balance them while you align it over the ball joint, but the SO set has a circlip on every cup so it snaps together and holds itself while you get everything situated.

A lot of the time it's just little niceties in the tools that set the truck brands apart. For example, SO makes their own modified version of the Airlift coolant filling system. It's about $75 more, but it has a + adapter rather than a T adapter, so you don't have to remove the vacuum to install the filler hose.

u/19Kilo · -1 pointsr/gundeals

I dunno. Aero doesn't really offer anything that you can't DIY pretty easily other than finish and I do like to rattlecan guns. As soon as we replace the oven in the kitchen, that might be migrating out to the garage to see if I want to get into Cerakote.

> The intergrated trigger guard is really nice

I like the ability to pick and choose, but I usually default to MagPul plastics.

> threaded bolt catch is a god send of making the hardest part of the lower build the easiest

Knipex flat jaw pliers for all the roll pins makes it super simple.

> I like the set screw in the back

4-40 tap and tap wrench along with a phat sack of these. If you chop a couple coils off the safety detent you can tap and thread that for the same screws as well.