Best tap extractors according to redditors

We found 246 Reddit comments discussing the best tap extractors. We ranked the 43 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Tap Extractors:

u/gunslinger_006 · 50 pointsr/motorcycles

>So I've given up and have booked it in to the workshop, but I just hate how I cant seem to accomplish the simplest of mechanical tasks, I'm really just venting here. fuck my useless mechanical ability, I just ruin things like screw heads when I try >:( >:(

Few pointers from a guy whose been wrenching for a long time:

  1. Every guy like me got to where we are by making a fucking disaster of various jobs and having to sort our way out. Shit, I learned how to extract broken bolts guessed it...breaking bolts! It happens. Take it as a chance to learn a new skill and your overall skill will grow...get discouraged and book a mechanic and you will not learn the skills you need to grow as a mechanic. There is no gain without pain.

  2. Some screws are made of fucking cheese and are going to strip no matter what you do, if they were put in hard and haven't been removed in a long time (or if they were painted, or rusted, or someone used the wrong locktite, or some dumbass jb welded them in place). This is just a fact of life, that sometimes you do everything right and you still ruin a screw.

    So what do you do?

    For those soft screws that love to strip: You use an impact screwdriver to break it loose and/or a good creeping lubricant to break the rust (PB blaster, Kroil).

    Once you munge a screw up badly, you will need an extractor set. I recommend you learn this skill by deliberately ruining a few screws that yo have screwed into a board and use the set to get them out.

    Here is one example of an extractor kit:

    My advice to you:

  3. Get an extractor kit and learn how it works.

  4. Get an impact screwdriver and learn how it works.

  5. If your problem is a bolt (m8 or larger) that is frozen, an impact driver (either electronic or pnuematic) is your best friend. There are some jobs like brake caliper bolts that practically demand an impact driver due to the rusting involved, and are prone to shearing the head off if you use a large bar instead of an impact driver. Every mechanic has one for a reason...they are necessary for many jobs on cars and motorcycles.

  6. Cut yourself some slack.

  7. If you are going to call in for help (we all have done it), you can start by taking your bike in and having a mechanic just get that screw out. Then you can finish the job yourself by ordering new screws from your dealer (the parts guy will help you find the right part numbers and order them for nice to the parts guy, he is a tremendous ally!).

  8. DO NOT give up on learning to work on your bike!

  9. IF YOUR FAIRING SCREWS ARE PLASTIC...plastic is a WHOLE different animal and they are a nightmare. If this is what you are dealing with, let me know and I'll post different steps for you.

  10. NEVER use the wrong size phillips screwdriver! Using one that is even slightly too small or too large will result in stripping. You should have a nice selection and always make sure you are using the correct one for the screw. This is VERY important for soft screws like plastic, aluminum, and brass.

  11. The last point is also applicable to TORX, and HEX nuts/screws. I'm pretty much convinced that Torx was a created by a sadist to introduce untold suffering onto the world. Treat every TORX screw/bolt like it will strip on you. NEVER mistake a T27 for a T25 or you will have a bad day for sure. Harley Davidson loves to put soft torx screws all over their bikes and its maddening.

  12. Learn when a 12 point socket is ok, and when a 6 point socket is ok. 6 point = high torque application. 12 point - only for low torque applications. I almost never use 12 point sockets these days.

  13. Wear safety glasses anytime a power tool or compressed gas/air is in use. You will thank me for this one later.

    EDIT: Thanks for the gold, whoever sent that. Totally unnecessary but I appreciate it and gold helps reddit avoid selling out completely to advertisers. Cheers!
u/Narcopolypse · 19 pointsr/motorcycles

I know it's a little late now, but for future reference these work amazingly well:

u/rui_lima · 19 pointsr/fixit

Go to your local hardware store and buy a screw extractor kit or a left hand drill bit, they're cheap and easy to use(i'll put an example at the end of the comment) punch the screw um the middle and with the extractor kit(instructions should be included) or with a left hand drill bit just drill ir out, it should come right of, i used the following kit to remove a broken crankshaft pullei bolt with success:

If you have any other questions, ask, im here to help.

u/MC_Preacher · 15 pointsr/guns

You need a damaged screw extractor, something like this.

u/100LL · 10 pointsr/aviationmaintenance

Grabits by Alden haven't let me down in the last 5 years or so. DO NOT try any knock-off brands. They must be made by Alden. NO SNAPON or CRAFTSMAN REBRANDS. They aren't the same!


Also, follow the fucking instructions. Reverse drill, high speed, high pressure. Once at the radius of the drill, swap sides. Then go in reverse as slow as possible, medium pressure.

u/hoovooloo22 · 9 pointsr/BabyBumps

They make things that go on the end of your faucet to make a water fountain.

Dreamfarm Tapi Fountain Rubber Tap (Colors may vary)

u/MrFumbles91 · 8 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Ah the ole' Jeep lug nut. I'm guessing this is a Grand Cherokee 1999-2004.

Exact same thing happened to me.

Bought these:

Smacked it on with a hammer and threw on the impact. Sat back and drank beer.

u/papashawnsky · 8 pointsr/pics

Don't use this. Use screw extractors.

u/No-Coast-Punk · 8 pointsr/metalworking

Get a new one.

It could have been saved until that horizontal cut was made. The cut caused burrs that will prevent removal.

For future reference when dealing with something like this:

Get a set of those, drill the required small pilot hole into the brass. Place the part in the oven and heat it to operating temperature. Remove nozzle.

Also, brass can't really be dissolved. It's why brass is used in many applications in corrosive environments. Also, it's why that nozzle is made from brass.

Just consider this an expensive lesson and move on.

u/Blaskowski · 8 pointsr/wiiu

I don't know if that screw would be too small for this tool but I have used it for stripped screws and it works well.


u/mnlaker · 8 pointsr/DIY

Use something like this, and stop using ignorant language.

u/btweber25 · 7 pointsr/bikewrench

They have special drill bits for extracting stripped bolts. I used these when I did the same thing to the bolt down in my headset a couple years ago:

u/slavejamhour · 7 pointsr/sysadmin

Firstly, sorry about your holiday.

Secondly, I've done this a few times now. Make sure that you double your downtime from what you are planning. Unless all the equipment is brand new, something WILL go wrong.

If any equipment is in with screws have a set of EasyOuts, they will save a ton of time if there are stripped screws.

I pre-label everything (cables, switches, machines) and then create a spreadsheet with each cable ID and associated switch/machine port IDs. This gets documentation out of the way and my focus is solely on racking and cabling.

This is a huge undertaking; make sure that you take the time to plan first, then execute. If you don't you're asking for trouble.

u/standardtissue · 6 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

so it sounds as if the stud itself (the bolt) snapped, and we aren't just talking about the lug nut. There's something fishy with the story - any mechanic should be able to fix either pretty easily. Were they just sneaking you in last minute and didn't want to take the time ? Or maybe figured you wouldn't want to pay for it to be done ?

To remove a seized/stripped/rounded lug nut itself, a common technique is the one /u/lmazy pointed out; since most lug nuts are soft decorative metal on top of the harder metal that actually does the work, you can pound a smaller socket on there to act as a nut removal tool. If that doesn't (and when I dealt with this problem it didn't) you can use a proper removal (similar to these ). They use curved fins to dig into the metal, and torque backwards so that the more you twist the more they dig in. They removed a lug nut for me that was really giving me a hard time. I didn't have them on hand, but I would expect any professional shop to have similar tools on hand.

The studs themselves are typically just pressed in from the other side of the hub.

I'm not personally familiar with Hyundai or how they do it, but I can't imagine it's any more complicated that similar cars.

edit: you're ok driving without a single lug nut for a while. you should probably have the bolt in place though.

u/Beechwoldtools · 6 pointsr/handtools

For screws like that, you'll have better luck with a hollow hole saw style extractor like this

The other style really only works for bolts or large screws.

u/t2231 · 6 pointsr/woodworking

This style of screw extractor has worked well for me in the past:

u/squiresuzuki · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

I was on tour a year ago and brought my bike to this one-man bike/ski shop and he managed to strip both of my XTR crank pinch bolts just like yours. Had to bring it to another shop and they drilled out the head on one of the bolts and that was enough to ease tension pull it off. Finally got around to removing those stuck bolt pieces yesterday with this screw extractor set, which worked really pretty well.

Anyways, the key to using the larger wrenches with higher torques and small bolts is to use one hand to hold it steady in place at the pivot so that there's no chance of misalignment.

And yes, Shimano sells bolts just for your crank. Assuming you have 105 5800 cranks, the shimano part number is Y1GS21000

Oddly enough, the bolt is not available on the bike shop distribution companies, nor anywhere else online (in the US). The only place I could find it is in this ebay listing from the UK:

However, I'm 99% sure this one would also work fine

You could probably also get a generic bolt to work -- it's an M6 bolt and it's 21mm in length (as long as the head fits in the slots).

u/kramithefrog · 6 pointsr/GoRVing

Just go but an easy out set.
IRWIN Screw Extractor/ Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119)

This might be a better set.

8 piece Screw Extractor Set,Damaged Screw Broken Bolt Water Pipe Remover Set By Nizzco

u/incubusfc · 5 pointsr/Tools

I manufacture aircraft and have for almost 9 years. I screw panels in place. Between this and my older rx7, I have TONS of experience with removing stripped, rounded, rusted fasteners.

My favorite kit by far is the snap on equivalent of this, although I do have the Irwin set as well.

This isn’t an affiliate link or anything.

Two quick tips, if it’s rusted, use penetrating oil. Always.
The other tip, if it’s not grabbing, drill deeper. Drill slowly, don’t heat it up. Then you’re screwed. Hah. Get it?

I just removed a severely burred screw (turned the + to a round hole) with this type of kit yesterday. I’ve never had one break either. I’m not an idiot with it either though. Smack it with a hammer to get them on/in. Turn firmly and keep smacking it if you can.

u/M30E30 · 5 pointsr/Tools

I have something similar by Hansen. They've saved by butt a few times for sure.\_lpo\_sbs\_469\_t\_0

u/politicalmess · 5 pointsr/cycling

There are a few options.

  1. Easy. Try placing a rubber band between the bolt head and the wrench. Apply a lot of pressure and the friction might make it able to catch and loosen the bolt.

  2. Easy but more time. as /u/phirebug has mentioned. old disposable bit + JB weld + time.

  3. Cheap but effective. Use dremel with metal cutter and cut slot across the head of the bolt to fit a flat head screwdriver. Use flat head to remove.

  4. Most Expensive (unless you know someone with the bits already). Get an extractor bit and remove it that way.
u/gedvondur · 5 pointsr/castiron

Well, you can try a thing called an Easyout. You can probably get one at Harbor Freight Tools as well. There are YouTube videos on how to use them.

It is possible that you could drill it out and re-tap as well. You need to be careful, cast iron is hard, but brittle.

u/control-alt-delete · 5 pointsr/howto

This will not work for old rusted screw heads tho. The head is too deteriorated and flat head screws are often a pain when they're in good shape. Many people don't have a dremel tool either. Screw extractor drill bits, every time.

Alden 8440P Pro Grabit Broken Bolt and Damaged Screw Extractor 4 Piece Kit

u/DarthContinent · 5 pointsr/AskReddit

Get something like this, it lets you gouge to get purchase in the top of the screw and remove it.

u/DobermanCavalry · 5 pointsr/Tools
u/BassistBenoit · 5 pointsr/XR650L

Ok I got ya on this. I recently had all three bolts on my oil filter cover snap in the casing while I was working on it. (p.s if that ever happens to you, do not torque them to 7 ft/lbs as stated in the manual, just tighten to snug)

The reason this happens is that Honda cheaped out on screws, I guess in the event that those break before more important parts do. It's scary but not the end of the world

First thing I would always recommend is either downloading a factory service manual if you can find one. As well as BUY A HAYNES / CLYMER MANUAL. It will save you in the future.

a quick google turns up this, tada:

and heres the clymer link to buy one:

So back to these screws. you need to extract em. good news is they are soft and easy to extract. use a speed out kit :

Basically what you are gonna do is use one side of the bit to drill a cone shaped hole in the top if the screw, then take it out, flip it around, and use the other side to SLOWLY extract it. Boom, easy and out. just go slow and don't rush it. you will thank yourself.

If you do mess up the threads, consider installing a helicoil so it can easily be saved in the future.

Next you need to find the screw. Your amazing new manual will have the parts diagrams all in it, so start there. If you just can't be bothered to read, we have the glorious internet! Hondapartshoues, Babbits online, and many others will help you find the size.

Look how easy it is! Here is the diagram for the screw in question:

It is a m5x16 panhead screw. I personally would go down to your local ace, and get the same size screw in a harder material. Either 10.9 or stainless, or even chromey bois as they will have it all. But if you just must must must have OEM, order it from that site. I am guilty of this sometimes even though it is so much more expensive.

Anywho good luck! hope this helps.

Anywho good luck!

u/eszZissou · 4 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Irwin Industrial Tools 53535 Spiral Screw Extractor Set, 5-Piece

Get an extractor set and a tap handle and get it out.

u/nocturnal_not_turtle · 4 pointsr/bikewrench
u/Darkside_1994 · 4 pointsr/ak47

I would try an EZ out or similar

u/fucusr · 4 pointsr/Buffalo
u/Bayonetw0rk · 4 pointsr/howto

To remove the auxiliary tip, you could try to use something like this, which is used to remove small stripped out bolts. I don't personally own this set, but the smallest bit in the set is rated for 3mm, and I believe aux jacks are 3.5mm, so it should work well

u/blueindian1328 · 3 pointsr/howto

Irwin Industrial Tools 53535 Spiral Screw Extractor Set, 5Piece

Ez outs would probably work. Just go slow and keep it straight against the screw head. They are extremely hard but also brittle at the same time. You could break off the EZ out. Your local hardware store should have plenty of options and you might be able to just buy one small EZ out that will fit that screw.

u/turbodude69 · 3 pointsr/auto

problem solved, you can thank me later

this little gadget has gotten me out of so many rusted bolt situations. if you can't get it out with this, then you're seriously screwed.

*btw, you can find this same set at most autozone/advance auto parts stores.

u/tj-tyler · 3 pointsr/WranglerTJ

You'd have to be living in a pretty rough area to have stock TJ rims/tires stolen. I'd use something like this and replace the keyed lugnuts with a regular ones.

u/stirredpudding · 3 pointsr/Miata

Ugh, that sucks! I think you can get a socket style bolt extractor in there. You might be able to buy just the size you need at a good hardware or automotive store.

Something like this:

IRWIN HANSON BOLT-GRIP Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5 Piece, 394001

u/Gigafrost · 3 pointsr/Austin

I bought a used VW Jetta (can't recall if '04, '05, or '06 model) that didn't come with its lug nut key. We ended up replacing all of them with normal VW Jetta lug nuts purchased from Auto Zone. To get the nuts out I think we ended up buying a tool that is intended for stripped/rounded nuts. Basically, something like this. I can't recall what size worked, though. It's actually possible that none of those sizes worked (IE, none of them were quite big enough) and we ended up using something else (maybe a giant hex bit socket?) hammered around the evil lug nuts. Either way I recall it being a temporarily grueling but ultimately productive process.

I apologize for not having more detail but it's been years and I didn't keep the tools for myself ; I added them to my dad's arsenal. None of the linked products are necessarily what I used since we found them at Auto Zone, not Amazon.

u/complacentguy · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

drill a small hole into the head of the fastener, then use an easy out set to reverse thread the screw out. for reference.

u/dangerjest · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Cut a slit in it and use a flat head.
Or Easy Out, a must have tool.

u/Quorum_Sensing · 3 pointsr/Fixxit

You can't drill an extractor or tap. I have gotten them out of the way by making many tiny holes all around one with very small drill bits so that I could remove it and go back to work on one.

This is a tap extractor. You will find several bad reviews because they were unfortunately used and assessed by people who didn't know how to use extractors in the first place.

Pro tips:

1.) extractors are rarely the solution and frequently compound the problem. They are not for stuck bolts ever. As you have learned, they are far too brittle to put any real force on.

2.) penetrating oil sometimes takes up to a day to get where its going. spray, tap with mallet, spray, leave, spray, wait, etc.
These are tiny channel locks. The pair I have is actually smaller and a couple of versions older. You can grab tiny screws with these and break them loose without issue.

These work really well too. Take an impact driver and get a receiver that takes general screw driver bits. These have that same hex shape. Put one on slightly smaller than the screw head on there and pop it. It'll bite in the screw head and pop it loose almost every time.

u/slayer9019 · 3 pointsr/cars

I'd check the rust out to see if you are getting any rot on the towers there...

As far as getting out the nut I'd

  1. Soak the bolts in some penetrating oil for a few days (Kroil, or PB)

  2. Get an easy-out

  3. If your cheap and willing to risk it hammer on an old socket and wrench it off

  4. Everything fails? angle grind it off.
u/CJM8515 · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Torch and id go to home depot and buy some irwin bolt extractors

u/Stem3576 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have removed many of those types of hex heads. You need to go to a hardware store and purchase a drill bit called an ez-out. Here is what they look like

u/PirateKilt · 3 pointsr/guns

Snag a SpeedOut kit off amazon or your local tool place

u/a-beaut · 3 pointsr/mountainbikes

They make extractor kits for situations like this.


Best of luck to you!

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Home Depot, Harbor Freight and most any hardware store sells these.

A set of these is a must, so you may nut strip another screw in the future.

u/drzeller · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Heres what I could think of:

  1. Use one of those things for removing damaged screws, if they go this small. For example:
    Amazon - screw extractor

  2. Dremel a little slot in them? Of course, you'd ruin your handle scales.

  3. Super glue or epoxy the torx key into screw. S.G. would be easier to undo for multiple screws and to clean off the knife.

  4. As above, but a little dab of solder
u/talkingtunataco501 · 2 pointsr/nfl
u/rage-fest · 2 pointsr/bikewrench also known as a broken bolt extractor now apparently.

u/p3t3r133 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Is it a hex head bolt, screw head or socket cap screw?

If its a hex head they sell these to remove them

If its a socket head or screw you can use these they are reverse tapped drill bits you drill into the old bolt until it gets a grip and then starts to loosen.

Or if you have the room around it, score it with a dremil/oscillating tool/grinder and use a flat head to unscrew it.

u/Plethorius · 2 pointsr/autorepair

What is the vehicle and what are you trying to remove it with? If you're using an adjustable wrench or vice grips or open end wrench, stop. The correct size closed end wrench or socket will not slip. Pretty much everything is metric now and if I had to take a wild guess that's a relatively recent GM vehicle? If so it's probably 13mm.

Then again at this point it may be damaged enough to not accept the proper size so you may want to replace the drain plug when you get it off. I've had success (gently!) tapping the correct size socket on with a hammer after someone boogered up the head.

Edit.... If it's still not working you may want to invest in something like this (example, not necessarily correct size).

u/kevinisms · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I had an impact socket crack and I didn't notice it until I found that I rounded a few of my lugs. Not a good feeling when trying to put the lugs back on. Anyway, I thought I'd give the Irwin Bolt Grips a try. Just hold them flush to the lug, pound them on with a few good whacks, put your cheater on, let the teeth bite and you should be home free. I was really surprised at how well they worked.

There are two sets, so get the one with the size that you need.

u/Neckbeard_Prime · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

These are handy, too:

About 10 years ago, I ended up needing a set to get the drain plug off my Monte Carlo ('04, with the piston slap-happy 3.4L V6) after the previous owner had almost completely rounded off the bolt head. I didn't have access to a welder, so this was after trying Quick Steel putty on a socket, which I was able to hammer into place, but it broke as soon as I started to turn it.

With the extractor sockets, the fucker came right out on the first attempt.

u/phate_exe · 2 pointsr/Autos

If you have the room to use one, a set of Irwin Bolt extractors are your friends

They WILL trash the bolt, but its coming out. I also suggest soaking the bolt with good penetrating oil. Automatic transmission fluid mixed 50/50 with acetone works wonders. Apply it with a brush, and it goes to work better than PB blaster or Kroil

u/McFeely_Smackup · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

You have a few options for that nice round thing that used to be a nut:

  1. buy a nut extractor, it's like a socket set that instead of fitting the nut, it has teeth that bite down into the rounded nut and you just use it like a socket.

  2. you can use a dremel with a cutoff wheel (one worn down to about half normal diameter would be best) to slice the nut almost all the way through, then crack it with a chisel.

  3. or you can use penetrating oil and a torch (will smoke like a mother) and try the vice grips again.

    I'd do #1 because I have a fondness of buying the right tool for a job. If for some reason I wanted to do it without leaving the house, I'd do #2 (hah, number 2).
u/seek_0 · 2 pointsr/Jeep

Assuming the head is stripped (rounded) and it's not the threads, I'd use this style of broken bold extractor. That is assuming you can fit it on.

If you've got nothing at all to work with, then you can use a spiral-flute type broken bolt extractor

These are basically like big reverse-threaded screws that screw in counterclockwise (so lefty-tighty, unlike normal bolts/screws) that let you put enough torque on the bolt to remove. No sawing is necessary, you just have to drill a hole into the stripped bolt more or less on center.

If it's the nut on the hinge pin, I'd just use a small drill bit and drill several holes vertically and then crack it with a chisel (protect the door when you do this.)

Practically everyone carries door hinge pins and mounting hardware. Jeep dealers will have them, as will the major online parts places (4WD, quadratec, etc.)

u/BeastofamaN · 2 pointsr/Austinmotorcycles

SCREW EXTRACTORS ARE RISKY!!!! They can and do break on machine parts, just come look at my poor, (currently) useless bike if you don't believe me.

But there is a similar and better alternative:

Good luck, broken bolts suck.

u/FrankTCat · 2 pointsr/saab

That, but the internal splined ones:

u/nocokurwa · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/plaidpaint · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

There is a family of drill attachments that are used to remove damaged or stripped screws. Should work on yours if you can't get it off otherwise.

Eg. Grabit

Easy Out

u/AnotherMadHatter · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/BenevolentDog · 2 pointsr/gifs

There's a tool for that.

u/modain · 2 pointsr/howto

You can try one of these kits, I've had luck in the past.

u/kckaaos · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have a set of ezouts that would get to it. It looks like a socket and bores into the wood around the bolt. The inside of the ezout is counter threaded. I have used them many times for stuff like this.

Here's the inside extractors like the ezouts...

Even if you don't need these for this task, these things are priceless to have around when you need them

u/derphurr · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

If you get the bits designed to get screws out (they reverse thread into screw heads. One should be large enough to grab the inside of the bleeder valve and remove it.

$10 for a bolt/ screw extractor/ drillout.

Make sure any metal bits fall out of the hole. You might have to clean up the threaded hole afterwards. It might be worth rebuilding the caliper to make sure there isn't rusty bits inside and throw on a new boot and relube everything.

u/Waitits2015 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

You can try to remove them yourself with a bolt extractor. Just make sure you soak them in PB Blaster to loosen them up and then heat them up with a torch before trying to remove them. They'll come loose. If you try to drill them out you could damage the hub.

The only thing that would prevent a (front) wheel turning are a sticky caliper or a seized wheel bearing. Temperature won't help there. I'd still pull the caliper to be sure it's not that, but if it slides freely move to the bearing. Thankfully the bearing isn't pressed in so it is a DIY job.

The shocks & springs are also a DIY job, but the bushings need a hydraulic press to remove them so unless you have access to one leave it to the pros or replace the complete LCA.

I bought a '00 C230 on a whim last year for $650 so I know where you stand. They're still REALLY nice cars even 16 years later, but they do need special care. Do a lot of research when buying parts as some vendors are significantly cheaper than others and avoid going to the mechanic when you can to save cash. MB's are very well thought-out cars, so the vast majority of the work can be done DIY, but be patient and do your homework.

Another thing I'd recommend is getting yourself an MB-specific scanner. Standard OBD2 scanners can pick up engine codes, but literally all other codes (ABS, TC, Transmission, etc.) will require a STAR scanner. Official MB scanners cost serious $$$ but you can get knock-offs from various Chinese vendors. The unit I got is a Carsoft 7.4 Multiplexer. It works great but you do need a laptop with a serial port running WinXP to make it run.

u/19Kilo · 2 pointsr/Glocks

I bought this kit for tiny screws. Worked great. I'd stripped the heads off some cheap screws used to attach an Aimpoint T1 to a mount. Took less than a minute to pull all three of them out.

u/Bananapepper89 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Barring that I would try to get it off with a pipe wrench. Make sure the teeth on your wrench are sharp so it digs into the head of the drain plug. Also make sure you already have a new drain plug on hand before removing the old one.

u/j114 · 2 pointsr/Harley

It's excessive, I know, but I replace my studs anytime I pull off the exhaust. I keep 4 brand new ones on hand at all times, just in case. They're cheap and it's a helluva lot easier than removing broken ones later.

Edit: if you can't get the other but off, you can try a tool like this:

I feel like a broken record because I've recommended this thing several times now, but it sure made the job super simple when I needed it.

u/catfightonahotdog · 2 pointsr/drums

Fair enough. There's drill-bits that you can buy that'll extract a stripped screw. Just gotta go slowly and you'll get it sorted:

You won't need to buy more than one size though.

u/Carpenterdon · 2 pointsr/applehelp

If there is enough of the recess left you can try using a flat head screw driver. Find one that fits as tight in whats left of the slot as you can, put some force behind it and turn it out "SLOWLY".

If the fails grab a needle nosed pliers and attempt to back out the screw. It looks like there is enough of it sticking out to get a bite with a pliers.

The last option is to go to a hardware store and buy a screw extractor, look for these. Find the smallest one you can. Use the "drill" end of the bit and gently turn out the screw.

If all else fails take it to an Apple store, tell the Genius you were a dumb enough to strip out the screw in your mac by using the wrong size driver. They should have the proper tool to remove it, I'm sure they have this problem all the time.

u/PackingPanda · 2 pointsr/Tools

Been there, done that. Not only is is broken in there, but since it's an impact I'm guessing it's going to be jammed as well. Everyone who has a power drill/driver should have this on the side... Grabit

u/rxmxsh · 2 pointsr/bikewrench
u/DocAtropos · 2 pointsr/Jeep

Like u/555-comeonnow said, if it is just a regular lug nut, get a cheap 4 way. If it happens to be a locking/security lug nut and you don't have the key you can buy removal tools (you can find individual ones too) that you hammer on and it digs in when you turn counter-clockwise allow you to take it off. (Just FYI the two pack of reverse thread removal sockets sold at Advanced Auto and O'Reilly were too large for the lug nuts on my Jeep.) I just had to do the same to my spare the other day.

u/rave2020 · 2 pointsr/howto

IRWIN HANSON Spiral Flute Screw Extractors, 6 Piece Set, 53545

u/warfieldm · 2 pointsr/DIY

Yep, screw extractor. Sometimes they work on set screws without having to drill.

u/killersquirel11 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

You could try an easy out

u/keylogthis · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Did this a few months ago on my E150... same bolt broke on mine. Mine was seized into the timing cover and I had to cut the timing cover off.

After you get the water pump off, try heating it and using a vice grip or a bolt extractor like this. Hopefully yours isn't seized like mine and you don't have the extra expense of the timing cover like me.

Also make life easier on yourself or the next guy and put a little anti-seize on the bolts when putting everything back together.

u/Gaming_Gal · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

1 This would be useful.
2 I know this is silly but it's really difficult to like turn my head and get a drink from the fosset.
3 Lime green all the way!

u/Workasaurus · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'll probably never buy this for myself because I'm not a big baseball fan or a collector, but it sure makes me giggle like a little girl! 1989 Bill Ripken Obscenity Card

Also, this thing that converts your sink into a water fountain.

u/DrewOnBass · 2 pointsr/Dell

You could try a flat head that is the width of the widest part of that hole. You could also try a screw removal bit such as this one: Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set
Third option could be to take a Dremel and cut at flat-head slot in the top. Good luck not damaging the laptop tho

u/Jadenewfie · 2 pointsr/DIY

There are also 'bits' you can buy for a drill that run in reverse and 'bits' into the bolt in order to grip better and torque it out. Similar to this

u/Styer22 · 2 pointsr/3dprinter

My best recommendation... [linked below] The teeth grab in a counter clockwise direction and could give you the leverage you need to get the threaded piece out

Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set

u/wontpassme · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

[Haven't seen them mentioned yet but these things will save you from many fucks.] (

u/alientity · 2 pointsr/cars

OP: you need to get your hands on a screw/bolt extractor kit. Most hardware stores sell them (or Amazon). Everyone should have one of these kits, they can be a life saver.

If you happen to have a dremel around, you could also try to cut a slot so you can use a flat-head screwdriver (have done this successfully several times).

u/Corndogginit · 2 pointsr/bicycling

If you have an electric drill, these work better than cutting slots in screws

u/konzy27 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

These work as a last resort providing the head is large enough. Pivot screws are usually plenty big enough.

u/mrse0515 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Try these:

Or this:

Or this:

These are all from Amazon (I shop there because my husband works there, so we get a discount), but you can get similar things other places too...

Good luck! Hopefully one of these will be useful for you! I think these sort of things are good to have around for such times as this...

u/anon4729361 · 2 pointsr/Dell

Had this exact problem. Don't bother with rubber bands or different sized heads. Get this screw extractor kit. And a generic laptop screw replacement kit if you can't find the size of the screw.

u/etonsla · 2 pointsr/DIY

You can try using some pliers to grab the end of the part that’s sticking out and try to unscrew it out. I’d spray some Kroil, PB blaster or WD-40 on it before to help it come out easier. If you can’t grab it with pliers a screw extractor will work. here is a set off amazon I’m pretty sure you can find these at almost any hardware store. They come in handy when stuff like this happens.

u/c4e_ · 2 pointsr/hockeyplayers

If the axle you have doesn't have a hex slot on one end, the frame on that side should have a hole in the frame that locks that end from turning (when aligned properly) if you push that end of the axle flush against the chassis, it will allow you to unscrew the axle like normal.

If that doesn't work or the chassis hole is broken/doesn't exist, I'd treat the side without the hex hole as a stripped screw and get a screw extractor set (requires a power drill to make your life easier), and get a new axle as the result.

u/GunGeek369 · 1 pointr/CR10

You need to run down and get a set of eazy outs, I dont know what size exactly the tip needs to fit into the nozzle a little bit. Something like this

Follow the instructions on the tool for extraction of the screw

But BEFORE you try to take it out, you need to heat up the nozzle to at LEAST 235-240. Then try to remove, following the instructions

u/notworthteheffort · 1 pointr/buildapc

Screw extractor

Also, check the quality of your screwdriver head and verify it's the proper size for future use. If the head looks chewed up buy a new one and save it as a PC stuffs screwdriver.

u/mahck · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm not sure if they come that small for what you've got but you can buy screw extractors that are basically a drill bit with a reverse thread. The idea is as you drill into the broken shaft of the screw they "bite" but because you are turning counter clockwise they cause the screw to spin and it backs itself out.

u/ZombieGrot · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

You could try a screw extractor, like this set. There are other makes and manufacturers. None of them are magic, all of them require care to use, but they can get a grip and remove damaged fasteners.

u/grunthos503 · 1 pointr/Tools

> Now trying to drill out chuck holder screw but it’s simply dishing the screw head

Try a harder drill bit like cobalt.

Then blast it it with a heat gun in there, to get everything to expand. Yes the screw will expand too, but when it cools down it can break up some of the friction on the threads.

Then soak it with some penetrating oil (Kroil, Liquid Wrench). Then a screw extractor in the hole you drilled should be able to do the trick.

May have trouble keeping the motor shaft from turning; might have to remove the motor from the drill body and hold the shaft in a vise. Don't chew up the shaft with the vise jaws; maybe hold the commutator in wood jaws.

That's all I can think of!

u/P3DERSEN · 1 pointr/vancouver

Irwin Industrial Tools 53535 Spiral Screw Extractor Set, 5-Piece

u/eth0up · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I ran into a similar issue a couple weeks ago when I finally replaced the stock nozzle on my Maker Select V2 (RAMPS).

I ordered a spiral extractor set via Prime (, but that wouldn't show up for two more days.

To fix it same day, I was able to wedge a small flathead screwdriver inside of the broken nozzle piece and unscrew it from the block that way.

u/TrouserPudding · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Have you removed the intake manifold yet?

If so, is there any bolt left sticking up? If that's the case step 1 is vise grips (which will work unless the bold has corroded into the block/lower intake manifold/whatever it's bolted to) and step two would be a multi-spline extractor like these.

That's pretty much the way to do it. Trying to drill and not screw up threads is going to be pretty dicey.

u/AlpineCoder · 1 pointr/Cartalk
u/FastRedPonyCar · 1 pointr/Mustang

for the rear, lift under the differential (use a hockey puck between the jack and diff cover if your jack doesn't have a pad) and put a jack stand on each side of the car on the frame just in front of where the LCA meets the chassis.

Then lower the jack under the axle which will let you push down the axle so that the springs just fall out.

don't lift the car at the LCA's. They don't seem like they are designed to bear that much pressure on that chassis joint but I could be wrong.

Camber plates are not really needed until you hit about a 2" front drop.

Here's a short list of the most common tools I carry when working on someone's car

Torque wrench

Deep sockets that can take a beating from an impact gun

Extensions (pro tip: if you ever have to change your starter, you will need about 15+ inches of extensions)

And this is the spring compressors I use

I also have a 90 something piece craftsman set with most of the 1/4" and 3/8" drive bits and swivels/boxx wrenches, etc but usually use the 1/2 stanley sockets get grabbed first.

These are also super handy if you have a power drill (better yet, a power drill with impact setting)

Mustangs don't really have a whole lot of random tools needed to work on them so unless you have a foreign car, your tool set shouldn't ever really get too complicated.

It's typically when you get blindsided by some small little issue like a rusted or rounded off bolt that can turn a 2 hour job into a 2 day job. I worked on a guy's old fox body to help him replace a clutch and he had 2 stripped transmission bolts. I had these handy which were more or less the only way we could have gotten that done (besides calling a tow truck to take it to a transmission shop)

u/Sophias_dad · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Forgot to mention perhaps the best mix of easiest and most likely to work....

u/GotMunchies · 1 pointr/Miata

Definitely replace the bolt. You have a few options for trying to remove the seized head but before doing anything, I'd try soaking it with penetrating oil to see if that will help loosen things up.

If there's enough of the bolt sticking out, an eccentric stud extractor is my favorite way to remove a broken bolt. Otherwise you can use something that fits over the stud ordrills into the stud.

Good luck, broken bolts are a pain.

u/Supersk33t · 1 pointr/saab You had to use something like this to get that bolt out correct?

u/lawble · 1 pointr/HondaCB

Wait. You’re just trying to get the oil filter cap off? If you are just use these: nut extractor I’ve used them on turbos before and they work. Just hammer it on and twist it off

u/getpatriotized · 1 pointr/AskMechanics

Yeah, I don't mind. As long as I remove the wheel I'm happy.

Also ordered this

Irwin Industrial Tool 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Extractor Set, 25-Piece

should be arrive tomorrow as well. Let you guys know the results.

u/jonomw · 1 pointr/Tools

Link does not seem to work. This is what you want:

u/numba9 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Multi spline screw extractor. I fought a similar situation trying a lot of the above mentioned techniques for about a week. Extremely frustrating. I caved and bought this. A bit of PB blaster never hurts either if you can sneak it in there. Out in 10 minutes. Great thing to have in your tool set.

Irwin Tools Hanson 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set, 25 Piece

u/totheredrack · 1 pointr/aviationmaintenance

IRWIN makes the best one IMO.
Take a stubby #30 and drill 1/4” in.
Use this on a 1/2” socket and viola.
Use the 1/8” with a #30.
IRWIN HANSON 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set, 25 Piece

u/donkeyotee · 1 pointr/pics
u/asok0 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

One of these,

and an appropriate sacrifice to the gods of home improvement.

u/Johndough99999 · 1 pointr/cycling

Home depot sells things like this

They are made to fix exactly your problem.

u/BickNlinko · 1 pointr/Fixxit

remove the whole seat so you can get at what's left of the bolt. Hit it with some WD40 , PB Blaster or whatever your favorite penetrating oil is. Now let it soak in there for a good long time. Then hit it again with the WD40 and let it soak again for a good long an hour or so. After it has been lubed and penetrated get some vice grips and clamp those fucker on there as tight as you can perpendicular to the direction of the bolt. Make sure they are on there real good and then slowly try to back the bolt out. It looks like there is enough left of the bolt for this method to work. If it doesn't you can always try one of these , but I have had mixed success with them and always try the TONS OF PENETRATING OIL and vice grips method first. Also , make sure you let the penetrating oil soak in there real good.

u/ushutuppicard · 1 pointr/guns

a good tool for something like this is called an "ez out" but youll have to get one small enough.

honestly, before i got to that point, id be headed to my local gunsmith. rather spend a few bucks than mess up my gun irreversably.

u/steve_steve · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Some pix would really help, but I think you're looking for an 'easy-out'.

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Ugh, tough spot to be in. Assume in your case you replaced both the upper and lower thermostat housing. The thermostat housing assembly bolts to the passenger cylinder head itself (with three bolts).

It's possible, but risky to see if the housing would hold pressure with two out of three bolts and a ton of RTV.

Walton Tap Extractor

u/BubbaKWeed · 1 pointr/Tools

These seldom work, but they’re worth a try

Walton Tools 18001 Tap Extractor Set

u/llawrednav · 1 pointr/howto

That's super small, but this is likely the type of tool you'll want:

u/rossmoney · 1 pointr/mac

aw man.. yeah it's really tough to extract stripped screws.. don't give up just yet though, there are extraction kits out there, even for tiny screws like this or this

u/coffeefuelsme · 1 pointr/Luthier
u/Airorcode · 1 pointr/EDC

I used this kit to remove 2 stripped screws from my 940. The smallest bit worked perfectly both times. Sadly I couldn't find the smallest bit on its own, but maybe you can. Careful not to extract too far as you may drill into the handle scale a little. It's also important to heat up the thread locker so the screw is freed up. There's instructions for use that also come with the kit. It says to remove the screw head but I never do, I just drill dead into the stripped screw and then pull it out.

u/usyed1 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

> The NVME screw is completely stripped. I am not confident enough to take it out myself. So you get my old 960 EVO for free I guess

This thing is a god send for small stripped laptop/desktop screws.

u/insipidgoose · 1 pointr/Knife_Swap

Extractor kit

This has saved me a couple times already.

u/pingmanping · 1 pointr/techsupport

I phoned Apple first because I really don't want to drive 90 miles (roundtrip) then find out that they are not going to attempt to remove the screws.

I have a dremel and thinking to get this Alden 4507P Micro Grabit Broken Bolt Extractor 4 Piece Kit but not sure if it is going to help with the situation.

I have not tried the super glue or epoxy trick yet. Maybe I should try it first. Is there a specific epoxy that is quick dry that I can use in my situation you can recommend?
I have a Gorilla glue, but this is not quick dry.

u/DrJerryrigger · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Seriously. Last car we bout from a dealership had one on the spare when we took the test drive. It was replaced before we signed papers without any discussion of it.
Edit: do you have some of these?

u/PIG20 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Sure, I have this set.

However, being that this is a smaller torx nut, you may need to find a set with smaller sized extractors. They sell all sorts of size sets on Amazon.

u/reboticon · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice
u/LumpWizard · 1 pointr/hondagrom

Get yourself a set of these!
I have a set and it never lets me down and definitely pays for itself. You can also try smacking the heck out of it with a hammer (without flattening it of course) or use some grease and slather it on the bolt and hit it with a torch and then try using vice grips. But best bet is that bolt extractor in my opinion. Hope this helps!

u/09Klr650 · 1 pointr/dayton

> damaged bolt remover

I had heard of these things (even watched a video). Can you recommend a manufacturer/brand? i see mixed reviews for all the ones I found so far. I do see they come in two basic types. Fluted angled, or sort of snow-flakish straight sided?

u/shitpostcastigator · 1 pointr/ElectricScooters

I picked up some nut extractors on Amazon. They come in today. I’ll be sure to report back.

The reviews were positive:

u/iBody · 1 pointr/Cartalk

You can try to remove the stud using a stud extractor you may have to cut the nut off with your dremel to get it to bite, then replace the stud.

u/abeezmal · 1 pointr/pics

The best way is to drill out the stripped area, put in a stripped bolt bit, hammer it in till it bites and use that to screw it out.

u/bightchee · 1 pointr/DIY

I think these are just as handy. It's not just that it's magnetic but the sleeve slides out over the screw to hold it in place until you bury it, where the sleeve then retracts as you push.

Additionally, I have found these to be of great use recently. I took apart a PS3 with three stripped screws and this thing backed them all out.

u/Gautch · 1 pointr/JeepWrangler

I read through that and it sounds simple. The welding is out of my skill set though.

I'm also looking at a "broken bolt extractor" on Amazon.

How safe would it be to commute with only one bolt (on that side) holding that together?

u/cmoneyrockchalk · 1 pointr/Karting

Still a novice but after looking at it here is my guess. If you can remove the out cast component from the inner cylinder, as seen in the link guess is that inner cylinder is actually a split lock collar that you will be able to loosen, slide to the aligned position, and tighten back down.

If those bolts are holding the two components together you might try either drilling it out or trying a GraBit

Edit: Could be completely wrong too but that's my two cent guess.

u/Rolston · 1 pointr/techsupport

You could buy a screw extractor.

You could also use JB Weld or Loctite to fix a nut to the screw head. Then use a socket to get it off. Similarly you could solder a nut to the screw head.

u/SilverManGold · 1 pointr/Miata

While replacing the CAS o-ring on my 92 NA this weekend I broke off a bolt near the CAS (which is especially stupid since I apparently didn't even need to take it off in the first place)... I circled the bolt's location in this picture for reference. What's the best method for extracting the broken piece? Right now, I'm thinking of ordering and trying this product. Does anyone happen to know the size of the bolt or what it actually is for? Is it ok to drive around as-is?

u/ptowner7711 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Just a quick tip in case you haven't heard it yet. A screw extractor will work wonders. I use this one:

This kit has helped me remove many-a-screw that lazy condo builders cram into various places and then promptly strip out. Just slap an extractor bit into a cordless drill and go to town on it.

u/steelsurgeon · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Last resort if you cant find a key or borrow one. These will work, done it several times. But they will basically destroy the lock.

u/Btburn · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Cycle heating it with a torch and soaking in penetrating oil then use a stud extractor.

u/wrongkanji · 1 pointr/SkincareAddiction

I've considered getting one of those rubber things you put on a faucet to make it easier for kids to use. Kinda like this, but I usually see them as like whales or whatever.

u/MKostelnik · 1 pointr/college

I have the "spountin" in my bathroom at home and it works like a charm.

If you're looking for something cheaper and less permanent, might I suggest tapi?

u/riseupagainst · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I think this device that makes your faucet into a drinking fountain is pretty goofy.

u/dbinkerd · 1 pointr/ar15

Use the heat gun as suggested, and either this or this from your local big box hardware store.

u/TacoDaTugBoat · 1 pointr/rccars

Time to buy a set of EZ out s
SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set
Designed to run in a drill in reverse. Grabs in and backs it out.

u/ARKnife · 1 pointr/knives

You could try to use stripped screw extractor.

Worked for me with some screws.

u/Immortal_Enkidu · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I use Grabit for work but these will work as well. You can also get one from any hardware store, lowes/home depot.

I use these things all the time at work and they are very helpful timesavers

u/Pyromaniac34 · 1 pointr/airsoft

Not sure how far down that is, but if you have a drill, you can purchase "easy-outs". In order to use one, you take a drill bit slightly smaller than the easy out, drill a hole into the screw you are trying to get out, then use the easy out to extract.

Easy outs are essentially reverse threaded bits that bore into the screw and then, when it reaches the bottom of the hole you pre-drilled, turns the screw out.

A set like this can be found for cheap at your local hardware store

u/SirMontego · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

I've seen the rubber band trick on just about every "picture list of life hacks." I've tried it about four times and have never been able to make it work.

In my experience the only things that work are using a dremel to carve out a new groove, getting a pair of pliers and turning the screen or, if you can't get to the screw with pliers, use a screw extractor, like this:

u/blacksheepcannibal · 1 pointr/aviationmaintenance

Spent my first several weeks working GA as, basically, a panel bitch. Combined with time in the USAF where power tools were not allowed and coin-slot screws were commonplace, I have an extremely well-exercised skillset in removing stuck screws.

Screwgun, using snap-on bit, won't get it out? Use the ratcheting screwdriver with those biting bits - you can get more direct force on it.

Ratcheting screwdriver with biting bit won't get it out? Oh, it's gonna come out, I'm not asking. Get the speed handle with almost-new bit, with a little valve-lapping compound on the tip. Put a lot of pressure downwards towards the screw, and first try the pop method - give the handle some pops. That doesn't work? Grab a rag, fold it up, and use your whole body to put maximum force on that little screw, and slow turn it. If you feel it start to slip? Stop. It's time to stop playing. Get the SpeedOut.

Drill out that head. Flip around, use the right-angle screwdriver (sometimes also called a Yankee, whatever works) to put a lot of pressure and slooooowly bite that sucker into that new hole. Continue with slow, even pressure to get the screw to break. That's not working? Okay, you've got a special snowflake, this fixes 95% of stuck screws.

Left-hand drill bit, waaaaaaaay down deep in the screw, and the pointy-type easy out you usually get from snap-on with the T handle. Drill clean thru the screw if you gotta, get MAXIMUM PENETRATION. Turn that sucker out, slow stead pressure to get it to break.

Still not working? Holy fuck. Use a bigger left-hand drill bit, and use the wrench-type easy out that is usually for bolts. Put some valve lapping compound on there for good measure, just to be sure.

That's not working? Fuck it. It ain't coming out. Drill the whole thing out, you're gonna need to rivet in a new nutplate. If it's not countersunk, drill it out like a rivet. If it is countersunk, well shit. You can try to drill it like a rivet, or you can match the hole and take the nutplate and all with it.

If that somehow fails, you're replacing significant levels of sheetmetal.

u/saltac · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I use this trick all the time, it's so simple and yet awesome. And when that fails I use this.

u/LordGoji · 1 pointr/Cubers
u/hiphop_dudung · 1 pointr/Philippines

The last line was confusing.

I'm overseas so I don't really know any place but as somebody who dealt and still deals with fucked up screws, read this.

What kind of device do you have? If the screw is small, then I'd recommend a speedout tool

Or you put a piece of rubber over the head and push down with a screwdriver then unscrew. You wanna keep a constant downward pressure while unscrewing.

If your "device" is big enough to withstand a stronger force and the screw head is big enough, use a Johnson bar.

Lastly, my favorite one, make the screw head a flat head. Make a groove on the head to fit your flat head and that should do the trick.

Or you can say fuck it and drill the crap out of the screw until it's reduced to shavings

u/k0uch · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Snag this set

Iv used this kit probably a hundred times, never snapped one bit. If it did snap, then you'd hav fresh grade 8 steel to weld on to. In all hon sty, I bought this exact set from walmart for $5.99, if it didn't work I wasn't out any real money. I was pleasantly surprised when it worked the first time, and the many times after that were just icing on the cake

u/woodkeys_click · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

They make tools like this to remove stripped screws. You could try putting a little oil or WD-40 on the threads which should make it easier to remove.

For future reference, it's always best to put a little light grease on steel screws to avoid stripping the aluminum.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

Screw extractor set. Possibly a very small drill bit, as well. There are a variety of kits for removing broken and stripped screws. The one linked may not be small enough for the knife.

u/skiwithpete · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've used these extractors on a drill - they work perfectly, I just don't know if they're going to be too big to fit in that hole.

u/madgame1230 · 1 pointr/Alienware

I’ve used this to remove many stripped and FUBARed screws if the rubber band technique doesn’t work. You’ll need a drill but it doesn’t have to be anything special.

18Pcs Damaged Screw...

u/KeavesSharpi · 1 pointr/howto

Contrary to what other posters have said, this is not a security screw. It's a one-way screw and there isn't a tool specifically designed to remove it. You'll need to either cut it out, drill it and remove it with a screw removal tool like this or if you're lucky you could try hitting them with some PB Blast and using a flathead and a lot of elbow grease.

Also, if you have a small Vice Grip you can try locking down on the head and using that to loosten it up to the point where you can remove it by hand.

u/francisbeca · 1 pointr/airsoft

I have taken out a few striped ones on my krytac with a specialized drill bit extractor for stripped screws...with a decent drill/electric screwdriver and patience it works.


Now updated all screws to stainless steel...

u/Why_T · 1 pointr/howto

I carry this tool with me all the time.
It’s one of the only as seen on tv things that is actually genius.

Cheap and easy I promise it will work.

u/TransientVoltage409 · 0 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Channellock-style pliers can sometimes grab those, but I've had expensive ones that won't and cheap ones that would, so YMMV.

Or something like this doohickey, I haven't used one but it gets good reviews.

u/niagaraballz · -5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set