Best thresholds according to redditors

We found 35 Reddit comments discussing the best thresholds. We ranked the 32 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Thresholds:

u/Phate4569 · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You can finish the cut to the other wall, fill the hole, and put in a wide transition piece.

You can stain it to roughly match the floor, then it will look deliberate.

u/doodlebugger · 4 pointsr/DIY

I have to first apologize for the delay in getting back with you. I had to run to the airport today to meet my brother home on leave and it ate up the afternoon and evening.

From the picture of the open door it looks like there originally was a threshold in the doorway but that it was a narrow threshold more commonly seen bridging between flooring types inside a house than for use on the exterior door.

It also looks like a real whack job on the wood threshold that abuts the concrete patio. Whoever did that needs to work on the measure twice, cut once method. That caulked gap looks to be about 3/8" and should be filled all the way. I'd caulk the whole thing if it was mine. It looks like the whole board needs to be trimmed by about 3/8" and then put in place to cover the gap at both sides of the door.

The wood piece in the doorway actually looks like the wooden part of an old-style threshold with the bevel on the inside. It just appears to be missing the middle piece that would have spanned the transition to concrete and filled the gap at the bottom of the door. You could make one yourself if you have the tools and nail it in place but you are better off using one of the ready-made thresholds instead.

Anyway, since there is no threshold now you will want to install one. The one that you have linked will serve to close the gap but will probably not be very durable since it only anchors on one side (L-shaped).

I think you need a U-shaped threshold like this one:

U-Shaped Threshold

It can be firmly attached to the outside of the door and can be fit to the floor across the transition pretty easily.

From the picture of the door it looks like your door thickness is 1-1/4" to 1-1/2", or at least it is less than 1-3/4" so it is an older wood exterior door or perhaps an older interior door now used as an exterior door. (Landlords can be pretty stupid like that.)

If your door is thinner than the u-shaped channel then you will want to shim out the door thickness using a strip of wood, plastic, felt, rubber, etc. of the correct thickness so that you have a snug fit. It appears that a good shim could be produced using one or more of the paint stir sticks like you get at Lowe's or Home Depot. I'm pretty sure they give them away so no cost there.

Just place the threshold in position, slide the shim into the channel on the inside of the door and scribe a line with a pencil. Then cut the stir stick into enough pieces of that width to span the width of the door. Glue them in place with wood glue, hot glue, etc. and screw the threshold in position after following the manufacturer's install procedure which should be something like:

Slide the threshold into place on the bottom of the door; Measure the width and mark for the width of the opening; use a hacksaw or metal snips or other tool to cut at the mark; slide threshold onto door bottom and position it so that it is touching the floor all the way across; begin with the center screw and install screws from the center hole to the edge holes keeping the screws centered in the screw slots and the threshold in contact with the floor as you go; tighten screws keeping the threshold in contact with the floor to seal the gap.

Another option in the same style from a different manufacturer:

U-shaped threshold with rubber sweep

Another option if your door is less than 1-3/4" thick is this two-piece unit that fits 1-3/4" to 2-1/8" standard thickness doors but can be cut down to fit a thinner door without requiring you to shim the thickness:

Two-piece threshold

If you don't use the door much you can just put strips of thin felt along the edge of the door all the way around to close any air gap along all the edges and fill the bottom gap with felt pad (excellent at blocking air leaks).

While writing this I see that you may already have a solution. I hope that it works for you but will leave this post as an option for you to consider. Good luck and warmest regards.

u/Stanced · 3 pointsr/whatisthisthing

https://www.amazon.ca/Frost-C35Ph-Plastic-2-Inch-36-Inches/dp/B00176BIO8



-Keeps out dust and drafts

-Works on old or new doors

-Keeps out insects and rodents

-Simply set in place and attach screws

u/diamondflaw · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Make sure every exterior door has either a drip edge at the bottom or a storm door - door sweeps aren't going to stop water coming in if it splashes or blows onto your door and it REALLY sucks having your door sill get mold.

u/val319 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Another idea is something like this. Check your local hardware store if there’s a bigger transition in metal but this is wood. M-D Building Products 85613 3-Inch by 36-Inch Seam Binder, Unfinished https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSNEE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9lp2DbTGC42CP

u/solid_mercury · 2 pointsr/fixit

something like this might not be pretty, but does the trick the most effectively.

u/minniesnowtah · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Alright, so far, I've got:

  • Shrink wrap on the windows
  • Door sweep on my entrance to the apt hallway (I could actually feel a breeze here before, crazy.)
  • Foam tape on the same door frame
  • Keeping the door between my heated and unheated room shut religiously. The flux in air between the rooms was actually making both feel colder, and I was turning up the heat more in response to this perception.

    I am still extremely suspicious of my baseboards (not the heater, the actual trim itself) because I can feel a draft under my desk, but I don't see any physical gaps to stop up. Maybe a piece of fire retardant duct wrap would work to both stop the draft and prevent issues with the heater? (The heater is kept off in this room since it doesn't have an auto-off, but I'm not about to put anything under/around it that's flammable.)

    Thank you all for your help!
u/dietcokefiend · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You may want to look into getting a rodent guard. A new seal will probably get chewed through again.

http://www.amazon.com/Garage-Rickford-Company-LLC-Rodents/dp/B00FC4ESFC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463672587&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=brush+weather+stripping+mouse


Basically just a piece of plastic or metal that slides over the rubbery seal section at the bottom.

u/TangoOscarDD · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I like how you went one step at a time. You probably get what I am going through and that my brain is everywhere at once. Thank you so much.

First thing is first, clean off the gunk as much as I can. I like your idea of covering the gap, then setting in the trim. I am going to run with that idea, along with the others.

Edit: The aluminum feature for the bottom of the step, I assume you're talking about an extension, like this one

u/R_DUBYA_STL · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I used one of these on my steel door. Works great. I was skeptical of the adhesive product but it's help up for months of use (our main door daily). Even if it starts to come off, I'd use liquid nails to reattach. Makes a HUGE difference.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XGR6AA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Wy9nxbTZ91DRH

If your door is wood they make one you can screw rather than the adhesive which I used on the wood door I have.

u/Target359 · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

Contact the police.

I believe those are sign of attempted or successful forced entry with a pry bar. There is a small paint nick on what I assume is part of the door handle plate, where someone may have attempted to insert a pry bar, but the space between the door frame and lock plate was too narrow to insert the pry bar directly next to the door handle. The paint scratches bellow look like a person tried to knock a pry bar between the door and door frame, with the intent on sliding the pry bar up to the latch/lock point, but the space between the door and door frame was too narrow to slide the pry bar up to the door latch/lock. Multiple pry bars may have been attempted to be used at once. pry the door open a little, and put the next pry bar closer to the lock, and repeat the process until the pry bar is next to the door latch.

Then, with some less secure doors, the door's small 2 inch by 3 inch strike plate is secured with two 1" wood screws secured by 1 inch of 2x4, which is very easy to split and break with little effort. You seem to have an exterior metal security door that is pre-mounted to a full metal door frame that deters attempted burglary.

This is the mandatory part for other people reading this, whom have a wood framed entry door.

Reinforce your door frame with a larger strike plate!

Even if your door is solid wood, and there are no windows within 5 ft of the door, also replace the standard door hinges with security stud hinges which will prevent the door from being pushed off after removing the hing pin while the door is closed.

Use a raised lip threshold plate with a metal lip, not rubber or wood or plastic. This is to prevent a burglar from inserting a long wire hangar under the door gap, and catching the door latch.

Use this lock in a specific way. If you have a door handle on the inside like a handle lever attach the part with the ball on the end above the door handle touching near the end of the handle. This way the door handle cant be activated by catching a looped string dropped from above the door, and pulling the handle up. If the interior door handle is a round knob, attach the ball ended part of this touching the bottom of the door knob, and the swinging part of this above the knob so it drops onto the knob. This will make using a rubber tube to turn the knob from the outside much more difficult and time consuming.

Nothing is 100% secure. But time, effort, luck, and noise required to bypass a security lock system can deter a criminal. Also motion lighting. Lots of motion lighting.

u/drtonmeister · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

• Step one is always weatherstripping the doors. Sound travels most easily in air, so get rid of the air path. For the top and hinge-sides of the two doors, the products and technique in this video are good

At the floor a bumper seal threshold can be secured to the floor with 3m double-sided foam mounting strip, to make it easily removable if you don't own the place. Check how much undercut you have on the existing doors and order the threshold accordingly!

To deal with the gap up the center, you could add a wood astregal; if there is clearance enough between the edges of the two doors you can tack on a T-Astregal and then if removal is needed the pin-holes can be made invisible with furniture-wax (if stained wood) or matching paint.

u/DrinkingCherryShots · 1 pointr/DIY

What about installing an automatic door bottom?
https://youtu.be/NMVnHtlZ5pI


Pemko Aluminum Automatic Door Bottom, Mill Finish, Sponge EPDM, 9/16”W x 36"L x 1-3/8”H https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009UWKAFO

It closes the gap when the door is closed, great if your door/floor is uneven.

u/DoomedJanissary · 1 pointr/lifehacks

You have all big roaches, or babies too? Baby roaches indicate an infestation; only big roaches mean they are coming in from somewhere.

Roach bombs did wonders for me. Open all cabinets, doors, closets, etc. If you have a high ceiling, put a couple on a ladder/table so they have nowhere to escape. You and your cat go somewhere for a couple hours and you'll be back to a bunch of corpses. Clean up and get rid of as many as possible. Seal all drains and check for potential holes our cracks they can creep through. Spray roach killer in the perimeter of doors and Windows outside (use pet friendly products for inside).

Also, there is a door sealer I bought on Amazon that helped keep bugs out and A/C in for me.

Also, keep food and water covered or away.

u/the_disintegrator · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You can look at a door shoe.

They come in brown too. Any hardware store with any normal amount of stock will have one like it. If you drill the holes correctly, you can adjust it slightly downward if/when the door shifts in the frame.

Just measure the gap, and buy one that claims to cover gaps of that size.

I put a white one of the above product on my back door with your same problem, and it's holding up nicely after 2 months. It's all plastic. They had metal shoes that were more expensive that may or may not be more durable. You're looking at $10-20 max. Either one will resolve your bottom draft immediately.

Edit: Bonus is that it also protects the bottom edge of the door from splintering/chips/wear.

u/CursedSun · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

Probably other options out there no doubt, but these are the ones I've commonly seen used with sheet vinyl.

u/roseni01 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Not sure this particular one would work aesthetically for you, but there are definitely door sweeps made for doors that have been undercut too much.

Door extender

u/SheSaidSam · 1 pointr/homeowners

I have some large gaps under the door to some of my bedrooms. And I was thinking about using a door sweep such as this

M-D Building Products 67967 35-3/4-Inch Kerf Style Replacement Door Bottom with Vinyl Fins, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1CCOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_al2LDbYC8E30X


To cut down on noise infiltration, I did those in my theater room and made a big difference, but then a friend mentioned the gaps are necessary for return air...? Am I gonna a burn out my furnace or air conditioner prematurely if I use those?



What about something like this that I just use temporarily when I have guests over that like to wake up early?

MAXTID Bottom Door Draft Stopper 32 to 38 inches Grey Adjustable Insulation Sound Proof Door Draft Blocker for Noise Light Smell Stopper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KK866KK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9o2LDb2X3347N



Thanks!

u/ncobserver · 0 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

Those look to be door sweeps you would usually attach to the bottom of a door when there is too much space between the door and the floor.

https://www.amazon.com/Pemko-Bottom-Anodized-Aluminum-insert/dp/B00BU8UH0E