Best pipe fittings according to redditors

they make a tool just for that

faucet / basin / sink wrench:

https://www.amazon.com/LDR-511-1110-11-Inch-Faucet/dp/B000I19AJI

Getting a timer, might work. This is what I use for my water solution for plants.

Timer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004INGS8S

Mini Resistor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5MQNM

Splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MS0HK8

Works perfectly and I never have to adjust it unless a week long rain is in the forecast.

This would work. It drills the PVC pipe out of the fitting so you can glue a longer piece in.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HE9YS8?pc_redir=T1

That soil pipe is lead. It's pretty common that they aren't attached to anything, but it's not going to go anywhere either. You need one of these. They come in 4 inch, and (for really old houses) 3 inch sizes. You set that in your soil pipe, expand it to fit snug, attach that to the floor (which is the tricky bit because you may need drill through the tile with a diamond bit), then attach the toilet to the new flange with a pair of hand-tightened toilet bolts. A wax ring goes between the new flange and the toilet. I hope this helps!

Also, if the lead soil pipe is not perfectly round or flush, you can gently hammer it into shape. It's pretty malleable once you start working it.

What do you want to know?

I will give you 3 pointers if you buy this particular unit, though. I only bought this because it's the cheapest 4 stage you can get, and I know I don't need all the bells and whistles (in-line TDS, etc -except one that I will mention in part 2 below) that come with the ones that cost way more.

1. If you want to make serious quantities of water, and you don't have the patience of a saint, get THIS MEMBRANE and just keep the included 50gpd membrane as a spare. The dow filmtec membranes are the best you can get. They're the only ones that really produce anywhere close to their stated GPD rating. The 75GPD membrane is great too. Honestly it's just a more convenient, and longer lasting membrane either way. I've gone through a shitload of RO membranes. Whenever I need a replacement, the filmtec 75 is what I buy.
   
   
2. If you're installing it on a bathroom sink that has easily accessible male threading (after you remove the aerator), then get one of THESE. It's much easier to just divert the faucet water to your 1/4" tubing than having to detach and reattach the included plastic faucet adapter every time you want to make water. If you want to cut the faucet out of the picture altogether (my preferred method) then install a SADDLE VALVE straight to your 1/2" copper pipe (cold water pipe ONLY - never connect an RO/DI to hot water) and a SHUTOFF VALVE in-line between the pipe and your RO/DI's supply port. That's what I did today. Tapped into the copper pipe behind my bathroom sink; drilled a hole in the wall just above the sink and ran the tubing into the bathroom; installed shutoff valve there; drilled holes in undersink cabinet to accommodate supply, waste, and clean tubes; mounted the filter unit inside the undersink cabinet. Now I have a convenient on/off switch just above my bathroom sink. The tubing for waste and clean are coiled up between the cabinet and my tub. When I want to make water I just snake the waste line down my bathtub drain, pop my water sprayer in the tub and fill her up. No worries of spills/overflow. No hassle of connecting/disconnecting plastic fittings that are prone to thread strip.
   
   
3. Doesn't hurt to install a BACKFLUSH. This is the one 'bell and whistle' that I think is actually really useful. Especially if you have really hard water, It's good to flush heavy solids out of your membrane occasionally.

here you go

Or you can buy arrestors already made for this situation that look like this https://www.amazon.ca/Sioux-Chief-660-H-4-Inch-Female/dp/B000H5MQNM

This ~$135

Cast iron I'm assuming? You might be able to pop it off and go with an insert flange:

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-repair-cast-iron-toilet-flange

https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-43539-Flange-Replacement-4-Inch/dp/B000DZHDQG

That gave me a great idea! What if I bought all 5 of these items and rigged them up in order onto a 12 oz soda bottle:

• PET Bottle "Carbonator" Cap
  
  
• Disconnect with 1/4" flared male
  
  
• 1/4" flared female to 1/4" MPT
  
  
• 1/4" FPT coupling
  
  
• 1/4 MPT Digital Pressure Gauge

Rubber softy bits are your friend 99 cents on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/BJLong-Soft-Live-Rubber-Pipe/dp/B009GKDIHM

I also have iron in my water, and had a rotten egg smell from the hot water tap. There’s a type of (harmless, naturally occurring) bacteria that live in the hot water tank, that feed on iron in the water, and produce the rotten egg smell. Replacing your water heater’s anode rod with one containing zinc should stop that. It worked great for me. Here’s the rod that I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4S7Y5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-y1YDbKXG9JS8

You'd need something like this:

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/hoseadap.html#wyes

And one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-8381-4-Inch-Compression-Adapter/dp/B008E5CQQ4

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-8387-Female-Compression-90-Degree/dp/B001F9R0YO

But it looks like a tight fit; you may have to tighten the 'hot' valve to make some clearance, and you might also need a little extension or an RV elbow to get it all to fit.

If you can plumb, or afford a plumber, the best way would be to cut the wall open and add a new stop to the cold water line.

Don't buy the A.O. Smith rigid rod. There is nothing special about theirs. Get a flexible unit. Available in aluminum/zinc, and magnesium.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Lightning-79098-Residental-Magnesium/dp/B007ZI385E

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Lightning-Aluminum-Flexible-Anode/dp/B00M4S7Y5A

I tried a few options and ended up going to a metal supply store. Grabbed some 1x1 aluminum tube, had them cut two 16ft lengths in half and then ordered these

Aluminum Alloy 3 Way L Shape Square Tube Clamp Tube Connector Pipe Fittings

I mostly use it for low risk stuff but it’s pretty solid. You should at least buy the right grip gear to hold this stuff down.

It's called water hammer and is very common with washers.

These will sort it out: https://smile.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-4-Inch-Female/dp/B07DLPB9QS

Cheers.

I was just curious as to Water Hammer Arrestor.I found this on Amazon, it has different sizes and looks like it could fix your issue, quick and easy for a DIY'r.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008E5CUFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I used. Works great

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J33N5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_0PbyzbQ15X3SM

PEX version

Personally, OP, I wouldn’t use a garden hose from outside. It would require you to leave it on all the time, and I don’t trust garden hoses to be on all day, let alone 24/7. Also, I don’t know about this particular maker, but a lot of higher end machines have liquid level boards and sensors so they know when and how much to refill automatically.

I would plumb from a sink indoors, so you don’t have to worry about freezing/bursting hoses and tubing during the cold months if you’re in certain climates. Tap into a sink with the following, if you plan to do it yourself (I usually urge people to hire professionals though):


http://www.hhdonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=F58A52082DA6422091676E0C5554B675

(This hooks onto the shut-off for your sink—the compression nut goes onto the tube first, then the delrin sleeve [linked examples of all of those below] goes on the outside of your 1/4” JG tubing. The brass insert goes inside, then you screw it onto the tee. I would also add one of the plastic shut-off valves to your line under the sink before you run the rest of the line)

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/heating-and-cooling/air-conditioners-and-coolers/evaporative-cooler-parts-and-accessories/4518155

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/heating-and-cooling/air-conditioners-and-coolers/evaporative-cooler-parts-and-accessories/4265013


I would connect one of these under the sink and behind your espresso maker, but I’m overly cautious. I would also add a second shut-off for your water line right before the machine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Fit-Quick-Connect-Water-Leak-Controller-3-8-3-8-Emergency-Shut-Off-RO-/273006090140

John Guest PPSV040808WP Single Straight Shut-Off Valve, 1/4" Tube OD x 1/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YKF2E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xOOkDbE3T1Q0K

As a safety measure, I also like to use these, they clip behind the little protruding plastic pieces that go over the hose.

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/john-guest-locking-clip-1-4

As for that white fitting at the end of the blue line, I’m assuming that you’re supposed to put that on the machine, yes? Plastic fittings are fine, but these are an option if it ever strips, starts leaking, etc.:


https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/john-guest-lead-free-brass-flare-female-connector-1-4-x-1-4-ffl


John Guest NC2098LF Female Garden Hose Connector, 1/4" OD x 3/4 (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N4NJ1WI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ONOkDbNXJE6J2

As for any tips on John guest, I try not to bend in too many harsh angles—if you need are short on space, use an adapter with an elbow on it so the tubing doesn’t bend going into the machine. Bends and warps mean leak if you have to forcefully bend it to make the connection.

Again, worth it to see what a plumber costs and if they can do it, but I hope this helps!

John Guest valve

Sorry the terminology is mixed up on my end. I had been on a motorcycle board and was thinking about something else. I meant a sillcock key. I was in a fog of antibiotics and codeine when I replied. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-J40-005-Four-Way/dp/B000DZKYVC

Check out this video on why it's helpful. It's a great addition to your filter, especially if you're in any kind of urban area. Once you start looking for these kind of water sources, they are all over

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygfv-nkvjxU

Find a pvc flange, cut it as needed to fit, seal with epoxy. Couldn't be any worse than before.

Oatey 43539 PVC Cast Iron Flange Replacement, 4-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZHDQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ujofAbN4FDQ56

If you do not have a water hammer arrestor plumbed in near the washing machine you'll get more frequent failures like these. During normal operation of the machine, at the time when the machine is shutting off the water intake, that thumping noise you hear is an increase of water pressure that likes to blow out hoses or washers.

For around $20 you can get a small arrestor that would be plumbed in between the hose and your water line. If you keep getting problems... well, that's the fix.

do you have visible pipe to use one of these???

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/compress.html#selftap

Or if not maybe a Y adapter and one of these
http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-8381-4-Inch-Compression-Adapter/dp/B008E5CQQ4

or http://www.handpiecesolutions.com/dci-0853.html

Can you give us a scenario of when you would use this? I didn't think finding a faucet outside with threads was particularly hard. Finding one without threads seems hard, but I know of one.

Probably right up your alley but please ask permission from someone first, (except in an emergency.) No one cares if you fill a water jug, they require a key for the outside outlets because they don't want some jerk to come along and just leave the water running.

Water shut-off valve compatibility as well:
https://www.amazon.com/EcoNet-Controls-EBV105-Automatic-Water-Shutoff/dp/B010MG372E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8

Would these help with the washer? Or is it what you already have? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013TLMCZM/ref=asc_df_B013TLMCZM5270139

Add water hammer arresters on at your washer. Both hot and cold sides

Jones Stephens J40-005 Four Way Key https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZKYVC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_RB4Dwb6GVQQM3

He's referring to these. The hose bib valves outside commercial buildings don't have handles to keep people from stealing water. You'll need one to get water to your filter.

HD was incorrect.
You need one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-43539-Flange-Replacement-4-Inch/dp/B000DZHDQG

It's a hose bibb. You might try this bibb key

Are you putting the nut on followed by the Ferrell ring ( gold color ) then placing the stop valve all the way on before sliding the nut up to it and screwing on ?
If all else fails buy a shark bite push on stop and be done with it . ( I know this isn’t the plumbers way ... It works and is legal by code and would save op from a service call ) SharkBite 23036-0000LFA Angle Stop 1/4 Turn Valve, 1/2 inch x 3/8 inch, Compression Fitting, Water Valve Shut Off, Push-to-Connect, PEX, Copper, CPVC, PE-RT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XM5GE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KP7-AbDBNZYVM

Sounds like hammering. It's not usually a big deal - just a nuisance. But, obviously, if the hammering is violent enough, it can break the pipe at the solder or even split the pipe.




The first bang and the lower bangs sounds exactly like hammering though. The first bang is the initial "heave" caused by the sudden stop of water and the other smaller ones are just the pipe continuing to oscillate for a few seconds.





Like I said before, have someone flush a toilet from your side and see if that does it on their side. If that's the case, you can buy one of these:



http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394494287&sr=8-1&keywords=sioux+chief+mini+rester




Really easy to install and should help.





Or...you can manually lower the water pressure in your house by turning down the valve just after the water meter (not recommended as a long term solution).

This is a bit of a longshot... If its the water pipes behind the furnace, you may be dealing with water hammering. I had something similar with my sprinkler system and it would vibrate (Though much much slower than yours). Water Hammering in short is caused by high water pressure in the pipes. Essentially the water gains momentum as it flows through and when it hits a right angle in the pipes the sudden change in momentum gets passed onto the pipe itself (Because the water won't compress to absorb the shock). Air in the pipes can also make this worse as air is compressible, but the water is not. Lastly, you see water hammering more in modern devices that shut off water quickly to conserve water. The sudden shut-off causes a shock to the flow of water (I had this problem with my washing machine).

Things to look into:

1. At a hardware store you can get various kinds of water pressure gauges. Ideally, put one on (for me it was my outside hose bib that was easiest to attach to), and measure the water pressure. I googled what the ideal water pressure should be for my house and went from there. Being in a 10 story apartment I couldn't tell you what PSI you should have.
   
   
2. Water Arrestors are a weird thing that exist ( Amazon Link). Essentially they act as shock absorbers for water pressure. I had to install 2 on my washing machine (again because of the high PSI). There's lots of different kinds that can be attached at various points in the plumbing.
   
   
3. Pressure Relief Valve - In the end I had to get one installed just after the main line entered my property. This regulated the water pressure for my entire house. This was also rather expensive. Again being in a 10 story apartment this may not be a viable option. But 1 and 2 should be worth investigating.

Pick up some of these, will enable you to route the tube flat against the top and out the back for a cleaner look. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yPQRCbDGAP8MA
Been considering doing a float valve with my breville to avoid constant filling.

The only piece I had to fabricate is the little black cube in the top. I made that from a piece of 1/2" acrylic. I drilled a 90 degree hole into the top and side of it. Then used epoxy to attach it to the fan with the wires going through it. I had to snip the wire adapter off to do this. The holes I drilled into the cube were the exact same diameter of the male piece of the quick connect barb. This kept it snug but also allowed it to rotate in the hole.

Next, I then fished the wires through the quick connect fittings and through the quick connect bulkhead. After the wiring was all the way though, i re-soldered the wire adapter and used heat shrink tubing to seal it all together.

Once everything was wired up I connected the fans to a 4 channel PC fan controller and fired it up. I do have to say I am very happy with the results.fan closeups

All parts were bought on amazon or ebay. Mistkings fittings while black are nice, they are very expensive compared to the white ones I found on amazon. The fans were bought on ebay and were very cheap. I estimate I built 4 of the fans for about $30.00 USD

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vktech-5Pcs-Black-Brushless-DC-Cooling-Blower-Fan-5015S-5V-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm-/183518100748?hash=item2aba87fd0c


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGR2ILM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are some Reddits that may provide you with additional information.

/r/bicycletouring

/r/Bushcraft

/r/CampFireCooking

/r/DumpsterDiving

/r/entomophagy

/r/foraging

/r/mycology

/r/survival

/r/Whatisthisplant

/r/whatisthismushroom

Equip yourself with items that will keep you dry and warm in all kinds of weather.

You need water and a means to carry it, sterilize it and acquire it.

Be able to cook food and make hot drinks. You need to be able to acquire food using multiple options.

Free first aid training.

Free map and compass course.

Get in good physical condition.

https://www.amazon.com/BJLong-Soft-Live-Rubber-Pipe/dp/B009GKDIHM

I had the same thing with my airbrush
I had to buy a thing that goes between your brush and compressor, I forgot what it's called tho lol
I'll try to look it up and I'll get back to you

Edit: I had to buy this thing Viair 90001 1/8" Female BSP - 1/4" Male NPT Adaptor - 2 Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004RCOY5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SIY6CbTTW2P8A

But double check what size you need for your set up, because it might be different. There are also sets with like 8 different ones, so you can get one of those if you really want to.

If you can verify that there's pressure behind those caps, i.e. that they're plumbed into the main system but sealed, then it will be very easy to finish. Any plumber could do it in 45 minutes max.

The drain too, just requires a fitting glued on to accept the chrome or plastic P-trap from the sink. That's even easier...like 10 minutes.

If you're wanting to get into this a little, go ahead and do this:

Buy a drain trap, and a suitable adapter for your drain pipe (probably 1.5" PVC, but possibly 2". Can't tell from the photo. Measure the outside, and tell the home labyrinth attendant, he'll get you the right one.). That'll get your drain attached, as long as there's one in the sink. If not, you need a sink drain to attach to as well.

Then get yourself this sink kit. This is what lets you connect your hot and cold supply lines to the faucet. No soldering required, just a clean end, push on, and you're done.

If you want to be sure this is hooked up right: turn off the water to the whole house and relieve pressure by turning on a faucet that runs. Make sure no other faucets run at all. Take a hacksaw and cut off the cap, staying as square as you can. Have a bucket ready, and have someone else SLOWLY turn on the water. If you get water out of both pipes, you're golden, and you're ready to proceed with the sink kit above. If not, slap a couple of these end caps back on the pipes and call a plumber...it needs more work.

I had to do this to all the lines in my house when I bought it. Replaced everything with pex lines with a snazzy manifold to equalize pressure. Did it myself and spent about $600-700.

This is the manifold I bought. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008J33N5E

Your intake line problem sounds kinda different but thought I would share anyway. Good luck!

Other answers are correct. Cheaper options on Amazon esp if you have prime

http://www.amazon.com/LDR-511-1110-11-Inch-Faucet/dp/B000I19AJI/

Go buy sharkbite caps. After demo you can slap those on the pipe and turn the water back on the rest of the house.

SharkBite 1/2-Inch End Cap, Push-to-Connect, PEX, Copper, CPVC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002STXVFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oG7mDb29M299G

This is the part

Does anyone know where I can find square tube fittings like https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Alloy-Square-Connector-Fittings/dp/B01G6Z6B1Y and https://www.amazon.com/Square-Tube-Fittings-Way-Plate/dp/B00HRY2U4G?

​

I've called a bunch of companies here and they don't have it. It seems that the preferred way here to join square tubing here is welding!

You can pull that flange off and replace it with one of these. When you remove the old flange, patch the hole by inserting two pieces of 2x4 through the hole, deck screw them from above and then screw a piece of plywood to the 2x4s. Push the new flange into the pipe and secure it with screws to the plywood patch.

$150 bux on amazon, I used a Manabloc, the only thing I didn't like was that I had to use crimp connections instead of ProPEX like the rest of my plumbing, but that's a minor complaint I guess.

Takes a bit to get the hang of it, but these work like a charm. https://www.amazon.com/LDR-511-1110-11-Inch-Faucet/dp/B000I19AJI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474827213&sr=8-1&keywords=faucet+wrench

Yeah i have heard of this. I am from Canada so i don't think i can order it. I tried to get everything i needed this week since i have the whole week free. Would the badger one do the job like this one ?https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0006MZPLG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Yeah this would probably require an adapter like this one basically.. it look like a lots like the badger spray gun.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004RCOY5O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

I put these on the back of my washer. No more banging when the water valves close.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5MQNM/

Here is the mobile version of your link

I'm gonna cut the 90 at the wall, then ream out (using bit in link below) the cut off that's inside the rear 90 and put a new trap in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HE9YS8

Compression stops are only for copper pipe, I've seen them done of CPVC pipe but it's not advised.

What is the type pipe coming out the wall? It looks black, but black iron pipe is for gas lines, not water service.

Edit: looks like it could be a sweat on stop onto copper pipe, you can cut it off and sand the fresh cut end smooth and pop on a Sharkbite stop- they attach onto PEX, CPVC, or Copper with ease: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XM5GE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rtrizbTD0N4H5

There are a ton of ways to do this. I just bought a system off of amazon, (ispring water RCC7). Super easy install. Comes with a valve that goes in between the faucet and the shutoff valve under the sink. No permenant modification needed. SHut off the water to the faucet, unscrew the tube going to the faucet, install the diverter valve, turn water back on.

Don't want a RO faucet on the counter? Get a 1/4" shutoff valve, 5 bucks on amazon. Don't wan to drill into the drain? Run the drain line up and just fix it to the edge of the sink with tape or putty or hot glue or something. It won't be super pretty, but it'll work great, and be completely removable and movable in about 20 min.

RO Unit: ~$190 USD https://smile.amazon.com/iSpring-RCC7-Certified-5-Stage-Drinking/dp/B003XELTTG/

shutoff valve (in lieu of a counter-mounted faucet) https://smile.amazon.com/John-Guest-PPSV040808WP-Straight-Shut-Off/dp/B003YKF2E2

Sharkbite cap https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-U514LFA-Plumbing-Fittings-Connect/dp/B002STXVFW?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_hi_web_9315591011

> angle stop adaptor valve

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/John-Guest-ASVPP5LF-Angle-Adapter/dp/B00N4NDQN8

Yup, I had to buy that coupling for the compressor

https://www.amazon.ca/Viair-90001-Female-BSP-Adaptor/dp/B004RCOY5O

Pretty stupid of the show as homeowners do employ surge protectors for water to protect possessions. I have personally purchased and installed a few of these on my old house which is on a well with waterhammer, and most home have them on the washing machine outlets.

http://www.amazon.com/Water-Surge-Shock-Absorber-660-H/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/Washing-Machine-Water-Absorber-660-T/dp/B000RPW420/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

Thanks for the reply. The reason for my question was the first user amd multiple other comments [here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Does it make sense?

"When you mount this device, mount it directly on the back of the washing machine. This way the cylinder is aligned with the momentum of the water column that needs to be slowed. If you mount it instead at the other end of the washing machine hoses, this is not aligned and the performance will be significantly less effective. When properly mounted, these are GREAT!!!"

It appears they make all kinds of adapters. You'll need to check to make sure you're meeting connection requirements for whatever fluid/gas is traveling in those lines though.

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-6783-4-Inch-Female-Adapter/dp/B008E5CUFG

5.55 Free shipping in my Misc Wishlist its a Jones Stephens J40-005 Four Way Key

I have a pittsburgh toilet in the basement. The cast iron flange cracked (may or may not have been my fault). I chipped out the old flange and got a Repair Flange and a 4" no hub. The no hub was needed because a cast iron 90 comes directly to the floor line, so there is a hub there. Now I ordered two different no hubs, and they both fit, however, there is absolutely NO way the PVC pipe was going to fit in the no hub inside that 90 hub. So, I ended up just using the Repair Flange and expanding the rubber to meet the no hub, without the PVC pipe. Do you find any issues with this?

Thanks!

That is a coupling glued to a piece of pipe that is glued into a fitting.

Buy inside pipe cutter like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-Corp-Socket-Saver/dp/B000HE9YS8/ref=pd_sim_469_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000HE9YS8&pd_rd_r=TXCR04FQM5504N7MFKX4&pd_rd_w=MGoNJ&pd_rd_wg=030Be&psc=1&refRID=TXCR04FQM5504N7MFKX4

Take your time with this tool in a cordless drill, clean the chips out frequently to prevent them from falling down inside the pipe. Once you get the socket of the fitting ready to receive pipe glue in a new piece of pipe and trap adapter.

How about one of these? Recommended by one of my teachers, and other teachers who have seen it have not objected.

When I use one, it allows me to have a firm hold on the bow without having to grip hard. You can also buy plain rubber tubing that is sold as a cello grip, but I like that this is contoured.

http://imgur.com/a/TyCM3

3/4" threaded female to (size tubing, 1/2" is decent) tube adapter from Lowes or Home Depot, plumbing section, $3-6 dollars. Bring that piece in with you just in case.

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-8381-4-Inch-Compression-Adapter/dp/B008E5CQQ4/ref=asc_df_B008E5CQQ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167126276842&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5624646667201327303&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-309091997881&psc=1

That a real cheep all in one valve and supply house. I would cut it off and replace with a shark bite push-on valve. Don't forget to turn off the water to the house. https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-23036-0000LFA-Compression-Fitting-Connect/dp/B004XM5GE6