Best towing hitch wiring according to redditors

We found 36 Reddit comments discussing the best towing hitch wiring. We ranked the 22 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Towing Hitch Wiring:

u/THEMCV · 15 pointsr/battlewagon

First off as a reminder for everybody: if you guys could make suggestion posts self-posts, that would be great! I'll leave this here since you've already got some comments already and are off road in the picture. :)

Now...

Here is my wagon currently.

There's a pretty good amount of stuff you can do for your wagon. :)

Starting with protection, Primitive makes excellent quality plates that will keep your car safe from rocks and branches from stabbing into your under-body driving or if you bottom out. I highly recommend Primitive. They're excellent to work with.

Let's talk about lifts, now! :) There's multiple ways to lift an Outback. Subtle Solutions and Gorilla Off-Road Company both make 1" Spacers that allow you to lift without much (if any) correction to the suspension.

After lifting, getting an alignment is definitely recommended. Also note that 2" is pretty much the max for lifting our cars unless you're wanting to getting into dropping the subframe. SJR makes a lift that goes 4" and 6", but they increase in price significantly from the 2" model.

If you're looking for a lift that has some more on the road benefits, King Springs are another viable option as they have ~20% stiffer progressive spring rate that keeps the car stiffer on corners and keeps you from bouncing around off-road. They're usually put on new shocks and the most commonly used ones are KYB GR2s. There's a little discrepancy on how much they lift, but it's usually 1"-1.5". The King Spring + KYB GR2 combo will run you ~$900, which is a little pricey, but worth it if you're looking for an improved ride.

One last route to go (which I think I'm going to do these and regular height King Springs) is an SJR lift which uses metal lifting blocks found here. They provide a 2" lift and are angled to keep stock strut geometry which is definitely nice.

Lights are a place you can mix it up a bit. Hella 500s are tried and true and have a more "rally" look to them, but I recently bought this front LED light bar and absolutely love it. It's light output is ridiculous and it's great for the price. So far, no complaints. Just remember for bulb lights, circle lights generally put out more. :) Her's my top LED light bar as well if you're interested.

I got this roof rack and am very happy with it. It's solid and great for the money. They make an extension piece as well and a cargo net

Rally Armor Mud Flaps are useful for keeping the mud on your car down and also defecting rocks from your paint. :)

And last but not least, tires! I highly recommend General Grabber AT2s. You can go about one more tire size bigger than stock and still not rub. :) Tires are one of the best upgrades you can get for going off-road. :)

I hope this helps! :)

u/MiataCory · 9 pointsr/4Runner

It's up out of the way to prevent it from scraping on rocks.

It's angled downward to let any water drain out of it instead of corroding the terminals.

Seems like one of those things that is sound engineering, but ruined by real-world actualities.

Any deficiencies are easily solved though

u/scsosa2 · 3 pointsr/fordranger

I have a 2010 with a shell. If you pull the brake light from the rear lights, when you use your turning indicator, your 3rd brake light will flash as well. It's the same if you use the trailer wiring. I had to use a brake light/turning light separator similar to this. Run a wire from the battery all the way to the shell to use the dome light.

u/cycobiz · 3 pointsr/Trucks

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

u/rstrategos · 3 pointsr/f150

This one appears to fit OP's image and matchs the factory plug.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001NYYREC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_z5xHDbYY5W904

u/Itanius · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

Here's what you need for a DIY install using a Curt hitch/harness:

u/UpdownleftrightABBA · 2 pointsr/popups


https://www.amazon.com/NEW-SUN-Trailer-Universal-Connector/dp/B0774KLX4H

It depends if it's a flat 4 pole or circular
They're pretty standard on smaller vehicles
Just a fyi though if you have electric brakes on the trailer it will not control them

Usually you can hard wire them to the vehicle's existing brake wiring.

u/AngrySquirrel · 2 pointsr/XVcrosstrek

Going to go with /u/scoopspoop here. I installed the 2" Curt hitch ($120). You don't have to do it from the inside. It's actually a really easy install, especially if you have someone to give you a hand getting the hitch into position. I used this video to get me through the process. I used a grinding stone in my drill to enlarge two frame holes to fit bolts and spacers. You could use a file, too, but it would just take longer.

If you're going to be using it to tow (vs just using it for a cargo carrier or bike rack) it's also simple to install a wiring harness. I got the Curt harness for less than $30 and installed it in about 15-20 minutes using this walkthrough video. Note that this install has the cable go out the hatch. It's possible to route it out the underside. I would've gone that way if I planned on towing frequently, but since I'm not going to be towing often, I like not having the wiring exposed when it's not needed.

u/BlueFamily · 2 pointsr/MNrideit

It's not too hard, unfortunately I'm highly unlikely to have time to do this. What you will need is (at a minimum) an independent turn signal to 4 flat adapter like THIS. It's a straight forward splice in. PM me if you need more info.

edit: HERE is a locally available taillight converter. PM me for my cell, we can talk, I may be able to install this for you tonight, but I need to know ASAP.

u/gregbox · 2 pointsr/Crosstrek

I have been using the curt wiring harness for a few years. Works great, plugs into the factory plug in the trunk. CURT 56040 Wiring T-Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031G8GME?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/0verland3r · 2 pointsr/Subaru_Outback

Here's what I used on my 2015. CURT 56040 Custom Wiring Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031G8GME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_cV1QokYoMupLk

It took about 15 minutes to install. Really easy.

u/swatson87 · 2 pointsr/hondafit

I bought a curt plug-and-play wiring kit for my GE8 and install took maybe 20 minutes with no cutting. Also ignore the towing remarks that you're getting. The fit can easily tow and stop ~1000 gross trailer weight. Just make sure the tongue weight is reasonable and the load is centered and level.

u/getpoked · 2 pointsr/EDC

Thanks but I can't take all the credit. It's the poor man's version of something I saw online.

http://skinthsolutions.com/product/the-skinth-og/

Offers a D-Ring and while i've had a Skinth before someone stole it from me so now I am sticking cheaper. You can do the same as I have with $20:

https://www.leatherman.com/nylon-sheath-w-pockets-549.html?cgid=sheaths#start=1

+

https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Keychain-Keyring-Lobster-Clasps/dp/B008MMEV2Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522514681&sr=8-4&keywords=clasp+keychain

u/akcoder · 2 pointsr/Hyundai

You can install one yourself. Curt makes one for most every vehicle. The reviews for the Hitch for our Sedona says install time is 15-20 minutes.

CURT 13240 Class 3 Trailer Hitch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012T85G2W/

And the wiring harness, which is a T harness so no splicing wires.

CURT 56277 Wiring T-Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z65O8I4/

u/catherineirkalla · 2 pointsr/TaoTao

Oh cool! I'm interested to know if the 50 VIP also has the unused green and black wire connector in the handlebars that I use for accessories on my 150. If so, it has an impossible-for-me-to-find molex connector so I snipped it off and cut one of these in half and crimped it on as a replacement.

Your scooter might actually be able to run on those batteries ;-)

u/josh6025 · 2 pointsr/TeardropTrailers

> It seems like the connection has more than 4 pins - but it's in pretty rough shape. Anyone know what kind of connection this is?

Looks like a 7/8 flat trailer connector, the 8th socket is likely dead as it's not used in North America. The 4 with the 3 sockets and 1 pin will likely be your standard 4 wire trailer connection. The other 4 are most likely for reverse, brake and +12 VDC with the 8th one being dead.

 

With how beat up this connector looks, dragged and corroded, I would have it replaced with a sealed 4 and 7 pin housing, EX https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-Towing-Solutions-47185-Multi-Tow/dp/B0002Q80GS, the flat 4 and round 7 are the North American standards used.

 

Since this the first time pulling any major weight have the receiver inspected to make sure that none of the bolts or supports are rusted out.

u/_Stinky_ · 1 pointr/XTerra

I put a Curt class III on my 2012 Pro-4x. Its was an easy install, no drilling or anything. That hitch comes with a plug n play 4-pin wiring harness but if you want to tow anything with brakes you are going to need a 7-pin. Installing the 7-pin involves replacing some fuses near your passenger side foot well but it is not difficult at all. The only difficulty we encountered during installation was where to mount the 7-pin receiver. We ended up cutting a hole in the bumper. That seems to be the most popular way to go about it.

u/NEHOG · 1 pointr/GoRVing

Sure, it can be done, but will require hacking into the wiring on the Explorer.

Also this cable may work...

Or this...

u/DogFarm · 1 pointr/overlanding
u/dante4226 · 1 pointr/4Runner

Here is the amazon link for the roof rack and extension

CURT 18115 Roof Rack Cargo Carrier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O844DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_abVQlXXLpvsva

CURT 18117 Roof Rack Cargo Carrier Extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O844EM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_98O8EexwyeZvt

u/ChickenPotPi · 1 pointr/cars

I was going to buy this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031G8GME/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and take the connector off I just saw that as a waste.

u/DukeOfMarshall · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Just a simple diode setup? That wouldn't be too difficult. I like dabbling in electronics. But now that you gave me the name I found this on Amazon and it seems worth the $12 just to swap it out. Think that'd work?

https://www.amazon.com/iit-16690-IIT-Trailer-Converter/dp/B004EKW0DC/ref=sr_1_15?hvadid=78477762568979&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=powered+trailer+light+converter&qid=1574031943&sr=8-15

u/tom_yum · 1 pointr/Silverado

Hopkins 40975 Multi-Tow Plug-In Simple Wiring Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NYYREC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E.YZCbJJ0YRV0

u/PhonyUsername · 1 pointr/AskAMechanic

Sounds like an adapter for wiring a 4 wire trailer plug from the cars tail light circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Vehicle---Trailer-Harness-56011/dp/B001GMX9FO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473180423&sr=8-1&keywords=Vehicle+trailer+wiring+harness

Is there a tow hitch on the vehicle or signs that there was?

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Where are you and will you be driving at night? In some states if you can easily see the lights of the vehicle towing the trailer you don’t need lights on the trailer. Then when you can drive to a town that might have the parts, you have the information from the other commentor about exactly what you need and how to wire it up. Do you have time to have the part shipped to you because that is the best option?

Curt Manufacturing 58180 Trailer Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EP28M8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_RVFxCb73HB6ST

u/puppymonkeybaby777 · 1 pointr/JeepDIY

Ordered this for my 97 Grand Cherokee. It fits and works perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K5RBOI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_RQ3fUjBAK4kkF

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

silhouettes

Thanks for the intersesting contest!

This is about out of stock on mine

u/Turboedtwo · 1 pointr/Audi

We actually bought a 13 pin and 7 blade housing and did it ourselves because nobody makes a harness like that.

docooler Tirol 13-Pin Trailer Plug 13-Pole Connector 12V Towbar Towing Caravan Truck Plug N Type Trailer End Plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S97S56C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S-juzb7EFQ4D8

Hopkins 47185 Multi-Tow Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q80GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MakuzbBPYZNTN

We didn't use the 4 pin on the second link. Just cut it off. Assuming you haven't already wired up the brake controller, you need to tap into the red and black wire for the brake pedal and recommend a posi tap for that.

Good luck!