That's when to use one of these. Blocks all data transmission and only allows power transfer.

Also works well if you have a car with an USB that annoyingly autoplays your music every time you plug your phone in to charge. I have my autoplay turned off but even with it off it still funnels the all of the audio notifications through my stereo, but I only hear them if it's on the USB input....which it never is.

PSA for anyone like me with a ton of random cables accumulated over the years:

Before I went out to buy a new cable, I just tested a bunch of crazy cable combos from my closet and found out that this one actually works with Oculus Link! Amazon Basics USB 3 9-foot extension cable + the USB-C to USB-A cable that came with my phone. Routed the cable over my head with a velcro shoulder pad I use for VR.

Really impressed with Link! I switched from CV1 to Quest, and it feels good to be back into PCVR! Link isn't quite perfect (at least not with this cable setup) but it's the closest thing to native I've seen on Quest yet.

usb condom!

just find something like this, its just a usb plug without the data pins.

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

Hey all, I just wanted to report something.


I've been testing the assortment of cables I had around, and extensions.


Using this cable, this extension, and this PCIe Card I was able to get a 32 foot + 10 foot setup running fine. I tested it without the extension and could not see a difference in latency.
It does require active power.


Your results may vary, but I figured i'd share my test.

It only costs an extra 5 bucks.

For the less tech savvy people, please please please, use a "USB condom". These stations are great for stealing all your data. They can potentially mount the memory (both internal and external) and download all your data. A USB condom removes the data pins from the cable therefore the stations can literally ONLY push power and are physically unable to mount the memory on your phones, as opposed to trying to download all your shit.

Stay safe and use a condom.

EDIT: These are the ones I use

https://www.amazon.de/PortaPow-Daten-Block-USB-Adapter-Schwarz/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+kondom&qid=1567762145&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Only fools don't wrap their tools.

I'm going to happily pay oculus for that cable , I've searched and searched and nothing I have found either comes close to the length / quality or price.

As it's not available at launch though I have found a 3m cable I will use until the official is released.

If it helps anyone ( UK )

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

Paired with this but not needed...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B078YRKTKM?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

Just get yourself some of these friend. It blocks the data mode and just sends power.

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

Is working great with this Amazon Basics 3m cable. Am really impressed by the quality of Link!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61

Update: I tried adding a 1m USB3 extension cable into the mix and that didn't work.

Update to my update, I tried it with an active 5m extention cable and it worked. It isn't on Amazon UK any more, but the description was:
CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-3rd-Data-Blocker-Pack/dp/B00T0DW3F8

I got these a long time ago. They trick the power source into providing more juice instead of limiting to 500mA and they also seperate the data lines from the charging source.

Here are some of the chargers that are known to perform "GOOD" or "BEST" with the Switch.

---------

Best

Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Nintendo Switch AC Adapter|$29.99|Amazon US|This is the only charger you should use with the dock but it's big and doesn't work great with any phones
Google 18W Pixel charger|$35|Google Store|More portable than Nintendo's charger, great at charging phones too, 6ft detachable cable
Google 60W USB-C charger|$59.99|Google Store|Bundled with Chromebook Pixel 2, great for laptops, very long 12ft cable
Apple 61W USB-C charger|$69|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 13" MacBook Pro, no cable included
Apple 87W USB-C charger|$79|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 15" MacBook Pro, no cable included
RAVPower 26800mAh USB-PD battery|$74.99|Amazon US|Might charge much slower unless you turn off the Switch before plugging it in. Avoid the included bad AC adapter.

Here are some other links for the Pixel phone charger: Best Buy, UK version

---------

Good

Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Motorola TurboPower USB-C 15|$15.99|Amazon US|Non-detachable 5ft cable
SONEic 15W USB-C|$19.99|Amazon US|Detachable 3ft cable
HORI Switch car charger|$19.99|Amazon US|Probably the best car charger for now
Google 22.5W Dual Port USB-C charger|$39.99|Google Store|Two USB-C ports, includes one detachable 6ft cable
RAVPower 20100mAh USB-C battery|$57.99|Amazon US|
Apple 12W iPad USB charger|$19.99|Amazon US, Apple|Requires a USB A-to-C cable, better than any other USB-A chargers

--------

Cables

I won't list prices here since they fluctuate a lot. Some of the chargers listed above have a non-removable cable. All the others (except the iPad charger) require a USB C-to-C cable.

USB C-to-C: For the Macbook, Google, SONEic, and battery pack chargers listed above. Here are a few on Amazon: AmazonBasics,
Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.

USB A-to-C: The iPad charger is the only one that gives good charging speeds with these. The 5ft cable included with the Pro Controller works. Here are some others on Amazon: AmazonBasics, Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.

No matter which charger you use, it doesn't matter whether the cable says it's USB 2.0, USB 3.0, or USB 3.1. They all charge at the same speed. Just make sure it has the correct plug shape on each end, that it has good reviews at a reputable merchant, and that it's long enough for how you want to use it.

Try anker I have had one in my car and one for my main charging and both are absolutely fine after more than 2 years of use! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Edit: spelling...

Make sure you use a condom.

If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;

Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!

The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.

I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.

Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.

Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;

Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0

KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2

US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension

DVI to HDMI Adapter:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1

CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0

US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0

UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable

US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable

Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater

US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater

Hope this helps :)

This is what I have experimented with and works great on multiple systems... For you look at step 2 and 3.

1st GET A THIRD SENSOR IF YOU WANT TRUE ROOMSCALE "they are on backorder at the moment"

2nd Get three of these for your sensors to make sure they can reach anywhere you want them too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3rd Get 2 of these to completely isolate all of you VR components from the sometimes janky unreliable USB ports on A LOT of motherboards that cannot supply enough power and/or bandwidth for all of the cameras and HMD to work properly I chose this card because it only has two ports and both of those ports work no matter if you plug in 2 sensors or 1 sensor and the HMD. The Inatek card DOES have issues for somewhere some ports work and others do not and are still only being able to run 2 sensors off the Inatek card and having to run the HMD and 3rd sensor off the motherboard. The Orico card just works and you don't have to think about experimenting with ports just plug everything into the two Orico cards in any configuration and go. Also use the default Windows drivers whether you go with the Inatek or Orico card only upgrade after trying the defaults drivers without success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4th This is optional. One of these for extending your HMD HDMI cable by 15ft for a total of 28ft: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5th This repeater is required to make the HDMI cable above work, but with this repeater, the extension is flawless: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6th To extend the Rift HMD USB I use the USB 2.0 Active Extension Monoprice Repeater Cable that comes with the 3rd sensor it is 16ft long, works perfectly. Then I used a small piece of electrical tape every 6 inches from the HMD to the PC to make the extended HMD cable one piece leaving about 2 ft of cable loose at the end to be able to plug in wherever I want.
I did a lot of research bought the Inateck and Orico USB add-on cards, multiple active USB extensions, multiple different HDMI adapters and extensions of varying lengths, Display port to HDMI adapters, DVI to HMDI adapters, and did all the experimentation and testing required to make all this work. The list I listed above works every time on multiple systems in different environments, rooms, and households.
If you need clarification on anything and/or want more information, feel free to respond or message me. I will gladly help.

After you get your USB cards installed and you sensors plugged in with the hardware I listed above reboot the system and the follow the below instructions.

Also when you get your stuff after everything is installed and setup do this as a last step for good measure:
Once the sensor setup has fully completed, search for PowerShell in the Windows start menu, right click it, and click 'Run as administrator'
Copy all of this PowerShell script (hit Ctrl-A, then Ctrl-C), then paste it into the PowerShell window (Ctrl-V), then hit Enter
Once it has completed, close PowerShell and restart your computer (this is important)
Here is the link to the script, just copy all the text on the page and past it into powershell: http://pastebin.com/raw/9f9MMny1
This basically sets all of your usb cards and ports to a high power no sleep mode and assures that Windows doesn't try to manage your usb's at the wrong time in the wrong way. I am not sure if I needed to do this but I just did it for good measure. I did all of the manually until I found this script that somebody else on reddit made. Just makes it quicker and easier than changing all the settings one by one.

Note if you haven't done this already you can do it now with your current setup to see if it helps "Probably won't but it may"

mini-usb

Literally copy-pasting from your pastebin because it'll look better here and I don't have to worry about looking like I'm hijacking because I didn't write it, aha! Having more resources in one thread can only be a good thing. Aim your upvotes at /u/senichi

~~

What game should I speedrun?

You should speedrun a game that you love to play. If you're serious about speedrunning a game, that could mean practicing for possibly upwards of hundreds of hours to beat your time. You might be playing the same segment of a game over and over again before you're finally happy with your performance in that section, and you could be playing for many hours before that happens. For this reason, you want to pick a game that you won't get bored of quickly. A game that you're happy playing for possibly hundreds of hours so you can get a time that you're happy with before you get bored of it.

How do I start speedrunning?

Once you pick a game, there are different ways you can start speedrunning. Here's the method I like to use after picking a game.

1. Figure out if other people have run the game. If they have, figure out what categories exist. Some games have multiple categories that you might like or not like. For example, if you would prefer a short run, you probably don't want to do a 100% category.
   
   
2. Pick a category. In the rare case that nobody has run the game you want to run before, you get to pick your own ategory. This can be something like "any% - beat the game as fast as possible" or maybe you want your run to focus on collectibles or completion. If other people have run the game you want to run, then you might want to pick a pre-defined category so you're not completely in the dark.
   
   
3. Look into runs that people have submitted in various places. You can check Speedrun.com or YouTube, or just Google your game and the category to see runs of it. Watch the world record run, then look for a runs with worse times that might use a different route. The world record run often uses strategies that are risky and hard to do, so you might not want to jump into a game using that route.
   
   
4. Find guides. When you think you've seen enough routes, you want to either start looking for tutorials (this is usually only an option for the popular games to run), or if you picked a game that isn't a popular speedrun game, you might need to just use any submission videos as your "tutorial".
   
   
5. Play the game. Run the the game slowly using the strategies outlined in any tutorial you found, or by copying what you saw in a video. If possible, try doing any tricks or strategies that are new to you multiple times before moving on. Stay on this step until you feel fairly comfortable with your game. If needed replay the game slowly a few times and use the speedrun tricks.
   
   
6. Do a run. Make it official. Find a timer, for this run any timer should do fine, and time your run from start to finish. Don't worry about your final time. A lot of people have terrible times in their first run, but that's totally okay, it just means it'll be easier for you to beat it later on.
   
   
7. Practice. When you finish your timed run, you should have a pretty good idea on what you need practice with. Some things you thought you were confident on might be more difficult in an actual run. Practice anything you had trouble with in your first run.
   
   
8. Repeat. From here on, you pretty much just repeat steps 6 and 7.
   
   

   I'm getting bored of my game! What do I do?
   

   
   Don't worry, that's not abnormal. Since speedrunning requires so much dedication towards a single game to get a good time, it's common for people to get burnt out or bored before they're happy with their personal best. If you're getting burnt out, I recommend simply taking a break. There's no harm in leaving your game alone for a month or longer and playing other games. Maybe even learn a new game for fun if you still have the speedrunning itch you want to scratch. If you continue to play a game that you're starting to get bored of, you risk getting bored of it on a much longer term, and possibly resenting the game or even outright start to hate it. Who knows, maybe when you come back to the game feeling refreshed, it might be even easier to get a new personal best.
   
   

   What capture device should I use, and how do I set it up?
   

   
   First ask yourself this question: Do you want a cheaper capture device, or would you rather have a good quality device?
   
   If you want a cheaper device, many people recommend the GV-USB2. It's considered the best SD capture device on the market, so if you're recording the older consoles that don't need HD video, then this should work perfectly.
   
   If you want a higher definition device, I recommend the Elgato GameCapture HD. It's very easy to use and the output is excellent. Keep in mind that, at the moment, if you use the GameCapture HD, you might have to use XSplit instead of OBS to stream. OBS currently has an issue with the GameCapture HD that causes it to desync, and in my experience XSplit doesn't have this issue
   
   In addition to the capture device, you will need TWO Composite Video Cables, and you will need THREE splitters.
   
   Here's a picture of how to set up your capture device using the GameCapture HD and a Nintendo 64 as an example. The setup would be the exact same using the GV-USB2 and any other console that uses composite cables. If using the GameCapture HD and HDMI cables, the GameCapture HD has an HDMI in and HDMI out port, so you would just use two HDMI cables, one going from your console to HDMI in, and another going from HDMI out to the TV.
   
   

   Who currently holds the world record for <game>? How can I find more information about <game>?
   

   
   There are multiple ways to figure this out.
   
   

9. Google it. Just Google "<game> speedrun world record" and see if anything pops up. Look for the fastest time and there's a decent change that's the world record.
   
   
10. Check Speedrun.com. A lot of smaller communities and even some larger ones use Speedrun.com because it's easier than making a whole new page. Check this site for the game you're curious about and see if you find anything.
    
    
11. Look for Wikis. This subreddit has a wiki that lists a lot of different sites that might host leaderboards. Check to see if the game you're looking for has a wiki on that list, and if not, try Google again to see if there are any wikis not listed in there.
    
    
12. Ask around. Go to Twitch and look to see if anyone is streaming the game you're curious about. You might find someone speedrunning the game right now, and then you could ask them or see if their Twitch bio has any information about it. If that doesn't work, you could check out the weekly noob question thread and ask about the game. Someone else might know where you can find the information you're looking for. You could also send a message to someone that runs the game on Twitch if you know anyone that does, even if they're offline. Speedrunners are generally happy to spread information about their game and would be happy to answer any of your questions.
    
    

    Can I use an emulator?
    

    
    This varies a lot from game to game. Different communities deal with emulators in their own ways. The usual answer to this question is yes, but it's considered a different category. The reason for this is because emulators are often not perfect in their emulation, so there might be differences in framerate, which affects your time, or sometimes even entire tricks are possible only on emulator.
    
    Some games don't accept emulation at all, but that only means that any runs that you do on emulator won't be able to go on the leaderboard. You still might want to use an emulator for exclusively practice because emulators let you use save states that make it easier to repeat the same part over and over again. Just keep in mind that while using an emulator you might be practicing at a different framerate than on console, or you might be dealing with slight input lag.
    
    The FAQ on SpeedRunsLive has a list of emulators that are commonly used and banned.
    
    In the end, the answer to whether or not you can use an emulator is specific to whatever game you're playing. These are only general guidelines and may vary on your game.
    
    

    What's that timer program I see on peoples' streams, and how can I get it?
    

    
    There are multiple timer programs that are listed on the Tools sections of SpeedRunsLive. The most popular timer program at the moment is LiveSplit, but in the end it's personal preference.

You can use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

It blocks data connections, you can only use it for recharging.

Be safe kids.

Naja gar keine Daten ist auch blöd, weil Telefon und port dann nicht die Leistung aushandeln können und es dann nur mit Minimum tröpfelt. Aber es gibt Ladekondome wo nur aushandeln drüber geht.

Edit: Zum Bleistift: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/

Anker PowerLine USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (10ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Galaxy S8, S8+, MacBook, Nintendo Switch, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10, Xiaomi 5 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf



That's what I got, but just fair warning it's a very heavy cable. I'd say about twice the thickness of what you are probably accustomed to for charger wires. Overall though can't complain. It does it's job, and reasonably cheap IMO given its good construction


Although if you wanted USB C to C, I can't help you much, sorry. I would assume that most you find in Amazon be good quality, but for me personally, I will go for Anker every time if they have what I'm looking for, even if it's slightly more expensive.

It seems as though they do not have long c to c cables though, unless I am blind

Edit: Here's a comparison between a regular 3ft cable from Anker, and the one I linked earlier

FAVOLCANO Easycap ($11). See capture quality here.

i-o Data GV-USB2 ($35). See capture quality here.

Diamond VC500 ($36). See capture quality here.

Dazzle Video Capture ($44). See capture quality here.

Hauppauge 610 ($49). See capture quality here.

To capture from these you would need a computer, an AV splitter, and some software to capture video (like OBS).

Turn off the wireless functionality, and plug it in with a USB cable. Usually, they use one like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK

I did a group test on USB3 extenders here is what I found out :

I tested using an Asus z170 Deluxe motherboard it has both Intel and AsMedia USB3 ports. I also used the Oculus recommended Inatek 7 port USB 3 Card.

——Worked——

Cables in this category mean the sensor detected as USB3 in Oculus devices and didn’t lose connection and provided solid tracking testing with the headset on, no matter what brand of USB3 port it was connected to (Intel, AsMedia,Inatek).

MutecPower 5m active USB3 extension cable £22

(picture seems to be wrong on amazon website, also note this cable seems to be sold as various brands but I'm pretty sure its all the same cable, it should look like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BLPSU2W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CableCreation 5m active USB3 extension cable £12

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 1m Passive USB3 extension cable £4

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH13UFQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

——Sort of Worked——

Cable Matters 3m Passive USB3 extension cable £7

Detected as USB3 when using the InatekCard (which has extra power from a SATA power connector)

Detected as USB2 when using motherboard Intel or AsMedia USB3 ports

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable Matters 5m Active USB3 extension cable £11

Only worked as USB 3 in one of the AsMedia ports and only when everything else was disconnected. Was USB2 or has an error in other AsMedia or Intel ports. Detected as USB3 in the Inatek Card and seemed ok testing in Oculus home loading area.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


——Didn’t work——

Belfen Superspeed 5m active USB3 extension cable £7

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179EPUEK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

detected as USB2 on every USB3 port including Inatek card

I bought these to test with:

Amazon Basics USB 3.0 A to C cable


Right angle USB C adapters


And I have this left over from my Oculus CV1 accessory kit wishlist I put on amazon. I'll report back here with what works and what doesn't. I'm also going to get a public google sheet going of cables, adapters (right angle) and active/passive extensions that work so that people can use that as reference.

EDIT: Link to sheet. Anyone with link can edit. Don't make me regret that. I will lock it. (Though if you want to fix my terrible formatting, feel free.)
EDIT: Had to disable open edit permissions. Going to add a form that will add unformatted data at the bottom, then I'll format it properly into the thread. Here's the form: https://forms.gle/uzyHvmgyXJGuVkKM9

PortaPow Fast Charge + Data Block USB Adaptor with SmartCharge Chip (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T0DW3F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RvNAzbR2NCG61

I run on SNES and use this little beauty, works like a charm. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00428BF1Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This means that as long as you are using a type-c to type-c charger or a type-a to type-c charger that uses a cable that 100% sure has the 56k ohm resistor then most probably you are fine with any kind of dock.

Of course do not take this as a promise from my side and use these docks at your own risk, but as far as we know this is the actual issue behind the bricked Switches (and many bricked USB-C laptops).

Amazon points out if a cable has the necessary resistor, for example: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527282413&sr=8-3&keywords=56k+ohm+resistor+usb+c

1. Google search 'Casio CTK3200 Manual'.
   
2. The first link is the Casio official website download page
   
3. Download the manual
   
4. Check the table of contents on page one, the section called Connecting External Devices > Connecting a Computer on page E-34 sounds good. Alternatively, the General Guide section on pages E-2 and E-3 show you the back of the machine and tell you for the USB port turn to page E-34. E-34 is definitely where we want to go.
   
5. That page tells you that you need a "USB cable (A-B type)" so lets google that too
   
6. The very first link is for an AmazonBasics brand one that is $5 and has free one-day shipping.

All you need to prevent this is a power-only cable, or a USB condom like this one

This. Don't use one of these unless you have a "data block" adapter that only passes the power pins, not the data pins:

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

Or a "charge only" cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Type-USB-C-Black/dp/B00S8GU2OC

or

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-5000mAh-USB-C-Universal-Power/dp/B01NAH6KLB/ref=sr_1_4?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1495111545&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+c+battery

It's not hard

GameCube and Game Boy Player is the standard setup. The startup disc for the Game Boy Player can be a bit pricey these days, but you can softmod the GameCube and use the free Game Boy Interface software as an alternative.

From there, you can get an HDMI adapter and HDMI capture card (lots of those to choose from). Or if you need to save some money, a good S-Video capture device like the IO Data GV-USB2, an S-Video splitter, and a GameCube S-Video cable will still get you a pretty decent-looking capture. Either way, set it up in OBS and you're good to go.

I'd suggest also getting an SNES controller adapter. I find it way nicer than using the GBA as a controller. There's also one for Wii Classic Controllers if you prefer.

$20 my ass. This is $4.50 with Prime shipping.

Get a GV-USB2 capture card! It's basically the go-to for standard definition console gaming.

He'll also need a video/audio splitter. I use this one and it works wonderfully. You'll need an extra set of composite cables as well. (That's just an example. Get whatever will ship on time for you)

If he wants to stream on twitch, consider getting him a webcam and mic. Let me know what your budget is and I can recommend some options for you.

I really like Anker products. I have a bunch of their cables and battery packs. Solid products.

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F3CACbGF7BG5F

Charger: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWNYC4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_71CACbGENHN6Y

People on the Oculus Quest subreddit have confirmed Link works with 980Ti.

I bought this cable which is what Oculus is recommending:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one and it works fine.

>A Best Buy rep said I HAD to buy a new PS4 Camera for the PSVR to work properly, not the "old" version?

Both versions work with PSVR.

>One Target rep even said a PS3 Eye would work lol.

That rep is wrong.

>Also, these Motion Controllers?

The PS3 and "PS4" versions are the exact same. There's nothing different between them.

>What exactly do I need to get these working?

You need a mini usb cord. Since they're from the PS3, that's what they use.

>anything else I should buy(accessories)

Personally, I like this charge stand, keep everything charged for use.

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-3rd-Gen-Data-Blocker/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

Allows power only, with no data connectors.

Just use a USB A -> USB C cable? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-USB-C-Black-Feet/dp/B00S8GU2OC

I always carry a few USB condoms for this reason.

It's a USB adapter that just doesn't have the data ports wired inside

Example: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-3rd-Gen-Data-Blocker/dp/B00QRRZ2QM&ved=2ahUKEwiV_IibiPvjAhVVBs0KHSZICSoQFjAAegQIBxAC&usg=AOvVaw3PHf3wOVB54fJdRoBbySnf

Amazon has them:

Plugable USB Universal Fast 1A Charge-Only Adapter for Android, Apple iOS, and Windows Mobile Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA9GXKM/

PortaPow Data Blocker USB Adaptor with SmartCharge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/

Don't really know what you are talking about but something like this could be used with every machine which has a internal USB header and every standard USB drive.

Don't use that

I'd say go with the OEM (Samsung ones) or Anker fast charge ones

USB C Charger, Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (6ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, MacBook, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 and More https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z-wJBb4B3SRQ3

Btw I don't think Samsung fucked us

I'm glad we have type C it's Innovation it's the future

Usb c is better in every way except cost for now

It's the cable. I had the hardest time with Android Auto until I got the right cable. I've used 6 different Android phones without issue using that cable.

This cable works (temp out of stock in black but available in white).

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYR2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VHKWBbDQN482B

Fellow broke college TO here. My weeklies average around 15 too so i feel like we're in a similar situation. My venue doesn't have good enough internet in the basement to stream to Twitch, so we only record and upload to youtube.

For my laptop, I use a pretty ok, free laptop my college gave me. You don't need anything fancy if you're not streaming.

I use this as a capture card, I got it on sale for like $15. It's far from the best but it really gets the job done and serves its purpose.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/315700/USB_20_Video_and_Audio_Capture_Device

I've also had one of my players recommend me this capture card. I've never used it but I hear it's cheap and it's good.

https://www.amazon.com/I-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y

For the player cam, I use a used camera on got on sale for $11. Once again, it's not great. But it gets the job done on a budget.

For the actual stream layout I found free overlays online, and my homie who's good with photoshop hooked us up with a logo for free.

If you wanna see what we're working with, how it looks, and what the quality looks like here's our Youtube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1bW6_nKMnvljeFXHpogkhw/playlists

If you have any questions just hit me up. I'd love to help another little local scene like mine grow!

gv-usb2 is generally known the give the best quality s-video capture

For anything with the traditional red, yellow and white plugs, this thing here is king. I-o DATA USB connection video capture GV-USB2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1bNMzb9C8YEM9

You will need this, a splitter, and two extra sets of cables (look in the "frequently purchased together" section below). Plug the console into the splitter, then run the extra cables from the splitter to your tv/monitor and to the capture card. The capture card is USB, just plug it in to your computer.

All the software instructions will be in Japanese, but just Google the name of the product and you will find some very easy to use installation guides.

From there, just use your choice of recording or streaming software! I'm an xsplit guy, but OBS is popular because it's totally free.

EDIT: Also, if you're going to run Mario 64 specifically, make sure you have the proper version of the game! I'm fairly sure it's primarily played in Japanese, and I'm not sure if there are glitches missing from the US release.

Can't believe this took a year.

That said they should add the following ASAP.

• 8m Rift cable.
  
  
• USB3.1 Gen2 Type-C 4-port Sensor hub.
  
  
• USB3.0 Active 5m cable.
  
  
• Slimline adhesive mount for sensor
  
  
• Travel case for Rift
  
  
• Touch gun mount
  
  
• Glasses facial interface
  
  
• Replacement XBone controller (with rift sticker)
  
  
• Replacement Left/Right Touch controller
  
  
• Oculus Home Gift card
  
  
• Enter the Rift - Shirt, Hoodie, Underwear
  
  

It's a standard mini-USB cable. You can use any high-quality cable, like this one from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

Mini USB-B

Power and data - so 5v charging if the board supports it. Not likely because you have removable batteries. The port is more than likely used for flashing firmware.

Amazon link if you are in the US.

They do, but that doesn't prevent outright malicious pranksters. So you'd need another safety device as well.

You should get a USB Condom.

I have to have one in my car because otherwise the sat-nav crashes when you plugin a phone.

For everyone in Germany. I can confirm these two cables work flawlessly, giving together 6.8 meters of freedom.

• Cable Creation USB 3.0 Active Extender 5mhttps://www.amazon.de/CableCreation-Aktives-Verl%C3%A4ngerungskabel-Extender-Weibliches/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3+extender&qid=1574350547&sr=8-3
  
• Syncwire USB C 3.0 1.8mhttps://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07F42TGQF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  Tested link with Doom VFR and i was impressed with the quality in direct comparison with my Rift S. I would say it has 80% of the picture quality, but quests Oled has better blacks. i could not see any latency in native oculus games. In steamvr there was a slight handtracking latency, but it was absolutely fine to play.
  
  So i am really considering selling my Rift S.

There was some guy who tested a bunch of extenders with the Rift sensor on youtube.

I ended up ordering this one because as I recall he determined this was the best passive extender:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/

My suggestion for everyone, reasonable price and high quality (brand tested by the Google Engineer, approved. I also tested the outputs with my own multimeter and noted they meet spec after reading all about his comments):

6 ft USB 3 to USB-C:
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485529618&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb-c

3 pack 6ft USB 3 to USB-C:
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1485529618&sr=8-5&keywords=anker+usb-c

Portable battery pack that I got for my future switch (includes all needed cables):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B014ZO46LK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


edit: I was intrigued by the power meter linked above from satechi. I ordered it, will test that device to and see what the devices/cables I have output through it. Probably take more than a week to get to Canada, and it cost an arm and a leg to ship.

I got a USB C HDMI dongle that works with the Nintendo switch and out of curiosity I plugged in my note 8. It booted into Dex. I didn't realize you couldn't just use it anytime.

It was this [MYRIANN 1080P HDMI Type-C Adapter Dock for Nintendo Switch, TV HDMI Converter Cable for Nintendo Switch (Silver)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07539N7JR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_mc7TOFbPCLFLN)

But it needs more power than a regular USB brick so I got
This
[UGREEN USB C Charger 30W PD USB Type C Wall Charger Adapter for Macbook, Nexus 6P, Nexus 5X, Nintendo Switch, Samsung Galaxy S8, Lumia 950 XL, Google] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFE90H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ohcVZOjAubvGo)

And this
[Anker PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including Galaxy S8, S8+, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, Huawei Matebook] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Y7S2DMZV2ZGhJ)

These work with the switch and my phone went into Dex mode when I plugged it in with these.

I've used quite a few different chargers with my MacBook and MacBook Pro. Yes, a 3A charger for a phone or Chromebook will work fine to charge it overnight or keep it topped up while you work under most scenarios. If you're running VMs, software builds or video editing, the Pro will eat more than 12W and you'll be at a minor deficit but it I'll get you those extra hours. I've also used the MacBook 30W charger (with a PlugBug for travel) with the Pro.

My favorite chargers now, though, are the Anker USB bricks with a type C port on them for travel and home. I use the 40W for travel. It only drives the 3A/12W on the C port but it is nice to have the other ports to charge a phone, headphones, watch and spare battery. Then I keep the 60W version at my nightstand. The USB port on that drives 30W (verified with the System Information app). I use their USB C cable as well. It doesn't do 3.0 transfer speeds but for charging it is perfectly fine and super durable.

I've confirmed this works:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, the cable recommended by Oculus arrived and I gave it a quick test. Just to recap, this is what I posted yesterday:


>My experience so far has been OK but not great.
>
>For reference, I'm using a R5 3600x and GTX 1660 ti, 16GB ram.
>
>This is the cable I'm using
>
>It may be the cable I'm using but I do find it blurrier compared to the Rift S. And I'm seeing compression artifacts in dark areas. For example, in Skyrim at night the mountains in the distance have artifacts. Although, I'm not seeing artifacts in the grass like I could see when using ALVR and VD. Also in the loading screens in Asgard's Wrath, which are mostly dark, I'm seeing a fair bit of artifacts. Lighter parts of the game seem fine.
>
>I've got the cable on order that Oculus suggested. I'm curious to see if it fairs any better.

I ran through the same games as yesterday with this new cable and I'm still seeing video artifacts. It may not be to the extent of the first cable, but definitely still there. The game that seemed to hold up the best was Stormland. Aside from the slight blurriness compared to the Rift S, it was a pretty good image.

Later this week I'll be testing with a RTX 2060 Super to see if there are any improvements.

So far I see the Link as a nice addition to the Quest, but it won't be replacing my Rift S. I think what Oculus has achieved is amazing, and I hope they can keep improving the image.

No. Mini USB looks like this.

I was slightly serious. I use this data blocker when charging in a public USB outlet.

USB A Male to USB B Male

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH11KIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1454007570&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=usb+a+to+b+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41GqSLLamyL&ref=plSrch

1/4" TRS Stereo to 3.5mm TRS Stereo adapter

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3T/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1454007688&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=1+4+trs+to+3.5mm+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31tLIDKLK6L&ref=plSrch

Go into Settings > Touch ID & Passcode > allow USB accessories when locked. I think this setting was introduced after Apple was in the news for not unlocking phones for law enforcement and they found a way around it using the lightning port. Apparently the iPhone sees the Tesla as a computer with the data pins active so that’s why the message doesn’t show up when you plug into a power brick. Another option is to buy a USB Data blocker which is a pass through for power but not the data pins. I use this one and it works well.

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-3rd-Gen-Data-Blocker/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=usb+data+blocker&qid=1564413715&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+data+&sr=8-5

USB C male to A male cable, like this. You can use a type A hub if you wish.

The spec is only limiting USB C female ports, they have to be native USB C.

first world solutions: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8GU2OC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-3rd-Data-Blocker-Pack/dp/B00T0DW3F8/

I've been using C2C cables from Anker since my S8 days:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Durability-Including-Matebook/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=anker+usb+c+to+usc+c&qid=1566566571&s=electronics&sr=1-3

They have great build quality and they're nylon braided.

I also use them to charge my XPS13 sometimes, which also charges at 45W.

Here is the link for Canadians on Amazon.ca:

https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-MacBook/dp/B01MZIPYPY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=AK-A8167011&qid=1574100127&sr=8-3

In case it's helpful to someone, I just got this cable and I'm finally working. It's 10 feet and works like a charm!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need the dazzle and a couple splitters (if you want to play on the tv). With that you can use obs (open broadcast software) to stream.

edit: I doesn't have to be a dazzle. Cosmo uses this one for n64:

http://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415515983&sr=1-1&keywords=i-o+data+gv-usb2

the splitters can be found at:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H4L6UO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with the splitters you will need a male to male av cables:

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Audio-Video-Composite-Cable/dp/B001VJ465O/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KV4BF0YP4E0PYEC1A0T

To get the capture card to work on obs, you create your scene and source a video capture device. You need to make sure all the drivers are installed for the capture card.

Other than the capture card linked, elgato makes good ones, dazzle, and there are probably others. DO NOT BUY CHEAP CAPTURE CARDS. They are shit, trust me.

> For starting out, cheaper options include the dazzle or elgato.

Oh geez please don't recommend these two to people

Dazzle is just trash quality and has audio issues, and Elgato (I'm assuming you're talking about the Elgato HD?) has that audio delay issue which is just something that absolutely should not be present in a supposed "high-quality" and fairly expensive device.

The GV-USB2 should be the go to starting/budget capture device. It's cheap, it's decent quality, and most importantly, it just works without any glaring issues.

There's also a million copies of it which can be had for cheaper but many of them have issues, so it's not worth it.

> Bit rate I use is 2500

This is fine for streaming but if you're local recording I hope you record at a higher quality.

I can't recommend the ioData GV-USB2 enough. It plays really nicely with OBS and a lot of other software. The driver installer is in Japanese, but there are guides and installation is really quick and easy. You'll need some sort of splitter cables or Y-splitters to connect your N64 to both a television and the capture card, but that should only run you around $15 extra at the most.

I have that same HDD, make sure you get a USB Y cable to help power it from 2 ports.

This is the HDD that I have been using for 9 months without issue. With this y cable. Works perfect.

Warning: wall of text ahead. I'm going to recycle an older comment and make it more specific to your post.

It kind of depends. What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to swing your arms while standing stationary? Do you like simulations, such as racing games or flight/space sims? These actually have an impact on the best headset (HMD) for you. I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey so my comments are based on use of all three.

Oculus Rift:

Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is, in my opinion, a little inferior to the Rift, even if you get a 3rd sensor. However, you can "fake it 'til you make it" on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. The Rift requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, or 4 if you add a 3rd sensor, so that's a lot of requyired ports. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale, though this is something they've overcome with time. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps), limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) MUCH more pronounced "god rays" than the Rift. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. Customer service is ticket-based only and there's no option for phone-based support.

HTC Vive:

The regular Vive is $100 outside your price point. The Vive Pro is more than double so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has significantly better tracking than the Rift unless you get at least a 3rd sensor, and even then there are sometimes issues. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. The Vive offers a better Roomscale experience, in my opinion. Games are purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and YMMV. Not every game works. (Essentially, it tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected, and remaps the buttons to the Vive controller. However, since there are differences between the controller control types, this isn't always perfect.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, however, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3 and one HDMI, and that's it. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB. HTC support is both phone and ticket but is terrible either way. Some people have resorted to public shaming via YouTube/social media. YMMV.

Samsung Odyssey (WMR):

Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (seeing the gridlines between pixels) than other HMDs. This is very nice for more detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims where you have to read a lot of small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't work... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so, realistically, it's just a seated/standing experience. Roomscale is technically possible but severely limited. Also, there are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, which will break tracking. Samsung's phone-based support is usually pretty decent, though I haven't needed it for the HMD yet.

Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:

The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences, so...) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment. IPD stands for interpupilary distance, which is the distance between your eyes. Everyone's eyes are a different distance apart but most WMR manufacturers didn't include this feature to keep costs down. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience. I'd strongly recommend going with one that does. I haven't generally heard good things about any of the other WMR HMDs other than the Samsung Odyssey or the Lenovo Explorer. The others are relatively cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both.

A note about VR graphics:

It really depends on the game. To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can necessitate less comprehensive textures. However, people have done absolutely amazing things with VR to the point that you simply don't notice. A prime example of this is Lone Echo (Oculus only). The visuals are stunning, though I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the incredible story, method of teaching game mechanics, and the pure immersive feeling they pull off. Lone Echo is VR done right, and it feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. That's the game currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. All of that said... you are looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. It's like looking at 1080p on a 70" screen from <4 feet away. You are going to notice the pixels, but you're also going to forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the incredible experiences and other visuals. The only exception to this will be games with lots of detail like flight and space sims. Unfortunately, games like that really need higher res than VR can realistically provide right now. This may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll probably mostly forget about the issue.

Roomscale:

Your roomscale abilities are going to be hampered by your small play area. Generally, the recommended minimum area is roughly 2x2.5 meters, if I remember correctly. Some roomscale games will refuse to launch with such a small area marked off. Others will launch, but you'll be unable to reach some things. Your play area will probably just barely suffice but you might need to "cheat" and mark off a slightly larger are than you actually have. The Vive and Rift both do Roomscale and seated/standing VR. WMR only does seated/standing VR reasonably well and is terrible at roomscale (due to the restricted cable length, not to mention poorer tracking) whenever you are able to make more room for it, and the controllers are much worse.

Cable lengths:

All VR HMD cables are a bit shorter than they could be. You can buy some extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no explicable reason. I've found that this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable work to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend the Rift cameras. If you decide to get both a Vive and a Rift, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs are able to go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.

TL;DR:

At this point, my recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift. If you know you'll get into/stick with VR and can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be in highly-detailed simulators or similar games.

Trying again. My previous attempt was removed by mods, not sure which link was in violation but I changed one of them:

Wow. Good going.

How about:

1. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/IYSHOUGONG-1-44MB-Floppy-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07QYYF36N
   
2. Paired with: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S
   
   BTW I have NO IDEA if that would work. But in theory you would think it would.
   
   Power cable into the adapter at #1 above is separate, but seems like that would be a legacy standard.
   
   Also, there is this:
   
   https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Olimex-Ltd/ARM-JTAG-20-10?qs=DUTFWDROaMbVQp3WoAdijQ%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwibzsBRAMEiwA1pHZrlxfq0xcms8HD_Vkh7lJCE2a9WGWQwkaVUBkFDo8g9iZXoZaFDNKKBoCQF0QAvD_BwE
   
   Datasheet PDF on that page is super-vague, so very much in the theme of 1995 All-Over-Again.
   
   If you get both 3.5" drives up and running, you should stripe them together into a RAID 0 !!!

I've been using this thing forever. I like your contraption as well. Installing mine upside-down results in frying your flash-drive. heh

I put together a machine just a couple of months ago to replace my little consumer-grade router at home. I look at all of the options (the various ARM families, Atom, etc.) and wound up deciding that the best option was to go for the low end of the current generation of Intel x86 parts.

Here's what I threw together:

| Category | Part Name | Price Paid | Current Price |
|---------------|-----------------|-----------------|-----------------------|
| Motherboard | GA-H61M-HD2 | $49.99 | $54.99 |
| CPU | Celeron G1610 | $42.99 | $42.99 |
| Memory | 2x2GiB DDR3-1333 DIMMs | $30.78 | -- |
| Power Supply | Solid Gear Mini ITX 180W PSU | $26.78 | $26.78 |

At this point you've spent $150.54 and you have a small (9" by 9" or so) system (minus a hard drive) that will blow any of the more exotic options out of the water... and that runs your favorite OS just fine. It's got a gigabit network adapter onboard, as well as onboard video, which is at least a nice fallback if you have any trouble getting it set up as a server.

I spent $3.77 on a motherboard-header-to-female-USB adapter and $6.99 on a well-reviewed 8 GiB thumb drive and called it quits, since my usage (as a router) doesn't really need any storage.

Then I splurged for a passive CPU cooler; it's made by Supermicro for their 1U servers, installed very easily, and was all of $24.23. Now the only fan around is the tiny one in the PSU!

I added some of these network cards which add two gigabit ports for $30 each, but since it has the onboard gigabit port, you don't need to do that unless you need more than one port.

I had intended to put it in one of these cases, which comes with a questionable PSU, but it showed up broken and I never got around to re-ordering. It sits very happily on a little cardboard tray without a case. (Also, even the smallest cases are much larger than just the board, since they assume you might want to mount hard drives or optical drives.) One of these days I'll bust out the woodworking tools and build a teeny little case for it.

As a tiny little finishing touch, I spent $2 or $3 on a power button (and reset button, power LED, and hard drive LED; they came as a set) from someone on eBay.

By my count, my configuration was a total of $150.54 + $38.00 = $188.54 before the extra network adapters. If you like, add about $20 (for a total of ~$205) to remove the PSU and add a cheap case that comes with a PSU. (You can also skip buying the buttons and LEDs if you do this.)

I don't know how much power the machine itself uses, but the whole power strip (with Roku, Raspberry Pi, DSL gateway, a dual-band wireless access point, and probably some other things) uses about 100 watts.

Get the GV-USB2. Its the go-to for speedrunners and I've heard great things. Probably the best bang for your buck.

I do not recommend Easycap's solely off the fact it is impossible to find a "real" one. Almost every one of them on amazon now are fake Easycap's. With them being fake half the time you could get one that does not work or that just does a horrible job and then randomly stops working.
While it may be a little bit more I highly recommend the GV-USB2 It is $40 which is about the pricerange for any legit capture card. Usually if they are under $40 you tend to get fake ones.
Here is some sample gameplay from my PS2 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ve-VOWIny8U
It is in a dark section of the game so you can see how darks handle. Do not judge me for my bad gameplay :)

GVUSB2 is generally considered the best price to quality ratio.

Well in that case you might want to have a look at this cable on Amazon. The design is, as far as I can see, 100% identical to yours. You might want to have a lawyer look at that.

For what it's worth I have one of each and for me the Cablecreation one is currently proving more reliable than the Tether Tools one so if it's an imitation they haven't done a terrible job.

Lots have used them and reported working on here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pjMerZPmJgkqwMKeYzvy4yGzWu2bu_1T_6m3nNmJkBU/edit#gid=0

mine will be delivered today (I'll be testing it tonight), I will report back once I find out if it works or not.

These are the cables I purchased, both are confirmed to be working from others, if it works I will have a total of 26 feet for my Quest to PC setup. I will be testing them in about 5 hours from now:

Cable (10 ft version, which is sold out): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY/

Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8

​

Edit: these both worked great for Link on the quest. I now have a 26 ft setup for only $24 total! The Anker cable even came with a Velcro cable tie i'm using to secure the cable to the headstrap so it doesn't yank out of the USB port on the Quest while playing a game.

Few useful links to get you started.

Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide

List of recommended cable extensions

I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.

Edit: Nevermind I found it on oculus’ website
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_McW0Db097XB93

Yeah I couldn’t find it on UK after a while of searching. I did find this one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B017COHTJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_api_i_V2V0DbKAZ192Q

I never thought cable quality was a thing but purchasing this wire made me understand what a high-quality cable is like. It fits firm in my phone, and it has great velcro straps to keep them organized!

Probably not. A-C is typically much safer because the A side of the port doesn't deliver nearly the power that C can. That said, a bad cable could still do damage in theory.

Grab one of these and you should be set.

Anker makes good ones for a good price. I have this one:https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01A6F3WHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1512071781&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+3.0&dpPl=1&dpID=31vbRV42GGL&ref=plSrch

There's a good chance the cable you're using might not be sufficient for Android Auto. Try another cable if you have one available. I recently bought a new one and can confirm this one works perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/

I have the Odyssey plus and had this issue. This fixed it:

Hub for power: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and

Data repeater (active cable): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active c goes to computer USB port; then use the hub; connect your headset to a hub port

I had to change USB cables several times. I ended up using an amazon basics USB that works fine - the two others I had laying around did something similar to what you describe (I think they were older printer cables). While the ALO cable should be good, for some reason the Jotunheim seems picky about them. Here is the one that works for me, I don't know why it's any different than the other ones I tried but it is: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1511142281&sr=8-8&keywords=amazon+basics+usb

Also, even with that cable I find that I have to unplug the USB from the back of the jotunheim every time I shutdown my computer and try to play music again, then reconnect it, otherwise I get some kind of digital skipping sound every second. Reconnecting the USB on the laptop side doesn't fix it for some reason.

Also it's strange that it suddenly stopped working; cables can wear out though, especially if you're using a laptop like I do, bending/stretching happens. I know it sucks but try even more usb cables if you can.

If it asks for data, it COULD be a security threat, but it would have to get access or exploit a vulnerability for it to get any meaningful data.

If you're ever paranoid about possible security issues, you can get a data condom that only allows power to the phone.

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

If you have cheap car chargers or USB ports that you only want to use power with, this thing is great.

No worries: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Data-Blocker-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/

I looked up my Amazon order history it's this one:

Cable Matters Ultra Slim Series USB-C Cable (USB C Cable) in Black 3.3 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S8GU2OC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uOO7Ab4QXB7N0

I only use iOrange-e cables from Amazon. They're $10. 99 for the 6' cable but excellent quality and Benson approved.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010VFFU1W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493596975&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=IOrange-e&dpPl=1&dpID=41NNQ7vh4aL&ref=plSrch

I've been using iOrange-E cables, and have been pleased with them so far.

I started with the 6' USB C to USB A cable for in the car, but I didn't have an adapter to do the rapid charging.

Then I got the 6' USB C to USB C cable to replace the stock 3'.

I also got a BlitzWolf 5V/3A USB C Car Charger, so that I can have rapid charging in my car, pleased with it so far.

Now my original C to A cable is just a backup, or if I want to charge my phone downstairs and don't feel like going upstairs to get/use the rapid charger.

I bought the 30w Anker charger Charger atom PD
And this usb c cable USB-C cable

I have a couple of these for phone and other devices.

Can verify they fast charge

You need a USB 3 cable. The charging cable that came with the Quest is USB 2 and won't work. The Oculus cable isn't required and any USB 3 cable will do. For now that means we are limited to 3m for our cable length until the Oculus cable ships. This is the cable I and many others bought. It is USB-C to A but they have a C to C version as well. Both will work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7NNJ61/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JyXPDbHEAATPC?th=1

​

Edit: I've noticed the price on these cables has gone up the last few days. I wonder if that is because of us snatching them up. One of the colors is still $14 though.

#here are the links you crafted without referral codes:

Amazon Basics USB 3.0 A to C cable

Right angle USB C adapters

Anyone know if this cable would work?

https://www.amazon.es/gp/aw/d/B07D7NNJ61/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1AT7YVPFBWXBL&psc=1&th=1

Says it's a 3 meters ( 10 feet) usb-c to usb-a 3.1 cable. Should do the trick, right?

This cable also works perfectly:


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure! Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

It's called Mini USB. It went out of popularity like 6 years ago but for some applications that require extra durability, it's still quite useful in my opinion. The sockets are much harder to break than micro usb or usb C

It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM

You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/

I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I

I've had my AmazonBasics 6ft Cable since 2014. I also bought this AmazonBasics USB 3 9.8ft Extender Cable. So when I need it, I have 6 feet or 16 feet of reach. Really no wear and tear yet.

Sorry for pic quality! There's a light in the way XD. I used a 10ft cable extension, command strip hooks, zip ties, and a dog leash to make my Oculus cord retractable!

Purchased items(US):

• Dog leash (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCECNES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• command strips (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084M696K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft passive HDMI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• HDMI repeater (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft usb3.0 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  Total: ~40$
  
  

Get a 12v (powered) USB hub and wire the barrel plug it comes with to a cigarette lighter plug (don't reverse polarity).

Alternatively, buy this 6$ purpose built cable I found: https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM

Here's a USB A adaptor which blocks data

All you had to do was search Amazon for "USB A power only cable"

You can use cables with no data transfer, or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-3rd-Gen-Data-Blocker/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

r/Privacy

It took me a while to figure this out but you don't. There are a couple of options.

1. You can load a virtual machine onto your PC and load MacOS onto it then you can use XCode to sideload Kodi onto it. The only drawbacks are that unless you have a paid developers account ($99/Year) it will only last you about 90 Days before having to re-sideload Kodi back onto the device.
   
   Here is the link to a guide: http://macdrug.com/install-mac-os-x-yosemite-in-vmware-inside-window-pc/
   
   
2. Which is a much easier method is to use a third party app signing service like iPwnStore to load Kodi onto your device. It's only $12 or something like that for the year and you do not need MacOS to complete the sideload. I've used them multiple times with no issues. You will however need a USB-A to USB-C cable you can get from Amazon for pretty cheap.(https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Type-USB-C-Black/dp/B00S8GU2OC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474921776&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+a+to+c)
   
   Link to iPwnStore website: https://tv.ipwnstore.me/home.html
   
   You will get the instructions emailed to you after completing your purchase at the iPwnStore.
   
   Video for Installing Kodi from iPwnStore: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahWMa77O7cU
   
   It is a bit of a pain to go through all this but I feel like it's worth it. I love having Kodi on my Apple TV.
   
   Hope this helps.
   
   

Or you could save money and get any other USB type C wall adapter and cable. These are just examples but I'm sure there are even cheaper combinations. Don't pay more for something that says nyko on it.

Wall adapter

Cable

Edit:

More

options

yes on the encryption front.

check out this excellent guide on how to root:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/guides-how-to-guides-beginners-t3206930
if you haven't done anything like this before, word of advice: watch a couple of youtube tutorials (from start to finish, don't leeroy jenkins it) so you know what to expect. you'll need a usb cable to connect it to a computer. see: https://www.reddit.com/r/Nexus6P/comments/3ri9ew/the_google_engineer_who_reviews_the_usb_a_to_usb/

I bought this one and am happy with it:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-USB-C-USB-A-Black/dp/B00S8GU2OC

after some experimentation, i decided to go ahead and do a "traditional" root instead of the systemless one. there appeared to be few limitations with the systemless root (i.e. i couldn't use an app called Secure Settings with it) and the android pay tradeoff seemed worth it. I like being a nerd, but that doesn't mean that everybody behind me in line at starbucks has to know that. I'm fine just pulling out my wallet.

it's an easy process. just follow the directions and you'll be fine

Gotta wrap it before you tap it, assuming these aren't also compromised...

Get powered USB extension cables.
They have an amplifier build in.
Used them in other applications up to 15m.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462274816&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+3+cable+active

http://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender--Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462274816&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+3+cable+active

I use them all the time. Works without issue.

https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525708548&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+to+motherboard

Edit: derp 3.0 not 2.0

The GV-USB2 is a relatively cheap but is considered to be better than the Dazzle DVC100. Downside is that the manual and software is in Japanese, but using the device is relatively straightforward and is supported by free capture tools such as Virtualdub and OBS.

If you do get this, to install the driver software, put the CD in your computer (you can also download the drivers from the manufacturer's website). Select the box to the right, then select the box with a 1 next to it.

The GV-USB2 is probably one of the best cheap cards out there. If you want an example of the quality, here's a recording from back when I was using it. I'm pretty sure it can look even better, as I was only using the RCA cables, and not the S-Video input. Just make sure you get a powered splitter like this or this (for S-video) so you can send the signal to both the TV and the recording device without lag.

Just make sure you set the device up properly and use some kind of deinterlacing. For ease of use I'd just recommend using the built in de-interlacing options in OBS.

Edit: If you're short on money and don't want to spend extra on a splitter for live capture, then you can just save your match replays using Legacy TE, and then record them through the recording device using your computer screen to navigate the menus. This requires extra work though, and it can be easy to forget to save your replays. I'd just recommend getting the capture device and the splitter so you can record it all in one go.

You can go the SD route and get a GV USB2, which is the best quality you'll get out of a SD capture card. This is the best choice.

For sub-$50 I like the GV-USB2. However, you'll need to purchase three RCA female-to-2-male splitters if you want audio and video to go to both the capture card and the TV (they're cheap though), and your computer will need a CD drive to install the capture card's drivers (unless you find them online, which is also a possibility).

I get stuck on "Checking USB storage device..." when I try to format an HDD, even after purchasing a y cable. This has been a week-long saga getting this to work. Why is this so difficult?

I saw that the Seagate Expansion external drive was recommended by Nintendo, so I picked up a 500 gb. I saw someone else on a forum say it worked for them. However, my y-cable just came in and it's still not working. This is the y cable I bought: http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-dual-Micro-B-Cable-Black/dp/B005M0ICG2 I have a white 8 gb wii u if that matters.

I tried plugging it into my computer with 1 cable and it works fine, so it's not the drive. I made sure it wasn't partitioned out of the box. I have it plugged into the front two USB ports. What do I do? Did I waste $50? (I bought it on clearance at Target--I don't think I can return it).

Edit: Turns out I needed to use the back USB ports. Problem solved.

I would think so, I know /u/Cybereality (Oculus staff) listed various successful cable extenders [here] (https://forums.oculus.com/community/discussion/30513/yes-extension-cables-do-work-w-cv1/p1) I personally got active extenders [here] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) or in the USA I think people were having success with [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462293641&sr=8-1&keywords=active+extender+usb+3.0)

My mobile setup is as follows:

MSI GT73VR- nvidia 1070 – Samsung 960 pro’s – 32 gigabyte memory – processor under volted using Throttle top 850 to reduce heat.

Laptop stand for airflow-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VIZ60QY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Powered USB-c hub-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013P0JU66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Display port to HDMI adapter (saves wear/tear on HDMI port) -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJ3LSIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extension cables 15' headset and 3rd sensor-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active HDMI repeater for headset-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w

Facial replacement-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w

Some items picked up over time. While at times I think a tower system would be great…. This allows me the flexibility to setup at other locations in / outside the home and still have normal laptop while not in VR.

I used these for the USB (5m or ~16ft) works with both Rift and Sensor): https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8

And a passive 3m (~10ft) HDMI 2.0 extension: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Microconnect-HDMI-M-F-3m-HDMI-Cables-HDMI-HDMI-Male-Female-Gold-Black/191955932795

They are connected to and work well with my ASUS Z97-K motherboard for the USB and a Sapphire R9 290X GPU (on of the Tri-X OC'd ones).

Ymmv.

Might be a difference in hardware, but I'm actually floored at how little latency there is. Any latency I felt I could effortlessly compensate for. Via Link, I played my usual Beat Saber Expert + maps on Steam VR. It felt damn near identical to my CV1 (tri-sensor setup) allowing me to get my usual scores. What really surprised me was the lack of occasional stuttering in Beat Saber I normally got from my CV1 setup. I can only describe what team Oculus has done as pure black magic! Like you said though, it's not on the level of an Index PCVR setup. But holy crap, at the price point and added portability, it's more than good enough for most!

For reference, my setup is: i5-3570K, GTX 1060 6GB, Inatek 4-port USB 3 PCI card, CableCreations USB 3 Active extension cable, and Anker 6ft USB C-to-3.0 cable. Might order the 10ft cable for more mobility.

Using this 10 foot cable here. So far no problems with Link.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Apparently the spreadsheet has affiliate links in it and my previous post got removed, so here's hoping this one will stick.

Here's a spreadsheet with various accessories: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wJwqv3rTNmORXz-XJsQaXK1dl8I91V4-eP_sfNVNzbA/htmlview?usp=sharing&sle=true

You can also test cables yourself with the following app by connecting your phone to a computer with the app open: https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/in-sight-labs/checkr/

I can personally recommend these: http://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462298101&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=Anker+USB-C&psc=1 bought several, scattered them around the house and use them with different chargers.

No problem! There's been a lot of confusion around here and it would be a shame if someone's Switch blew out within the first week because of improper cables =(

The Amazon reviews also say that it was approved by Benson and that's really my only litmus test =P

I bought a few things. Happy with all of it! Sorry for the Canadian amazon links. I'm sure it's all cheaper if you're in the US.

Carrying case: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NEG896Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cords: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E9W8KYC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EMIIFCU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Usb C Hub:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06WWRDMKP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Car Charger:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M7RS21N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are some accessories I use and love.

Cables:

[6' long USB A to C](http://www.Anker.com/ PowerLine+ USB-C to USB 3.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, Nokia N1 Tablet, OnePlus 2 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNAAEJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SD1PybKFCP918)

[6' long USB C to C cable](http://www.Anker.com/ PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, OnePlus 2 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mG1Pyb59S4SK0)

Charger:

[5 port (1 C and 4 A) charger](http://www.Anker.com/ USB Type-C 40W 5-Port USB Wall Charger, PowerPort 5 for iPhone 7 / 6s / Plus, iPad Pro / Air 2 / mini, Galaxy S7 / S6 / Edge / Plus, Note 5 / 4, LG, Nexus, HTC and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196JFWXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JH1PybWXH9ZMT)

That 5 port charger has been amazing. It is routinely use to charge a combination of my daughter's tablet, my Pixel, my wife's iPhone 7 Plus, my Xbox One Controller, mine and my wife's Kindles, and random devices from visitors with no problem. It has charged tablet and both phones simultaneously without any issue and at a very normal rate. I also use my OEM wall charger in the bedroom and the OEM Nexus 6P charger for travel.

Cases:

[Caseology Paralac](http://www.Google.com/ Pixel Case, Caseology [Parallax Series] Modern Slim Geometric Design [Black] [Textured Grip] for Google Pixel (2016) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4HN5XV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iL1Pyb58J56Y8). This is my work case ( I work 7 days on and 7 days off so I use it every other week) and feels and looks great but isn't as thin as I'd prefer. I generally prefer no case or just a dBrand skin.

This is my home/out and about case. [The Spigen Ultra Hybrid clear.](http://www.Spigen.com/ Ultra Hybrid Google Pixel Case with Air Cushion Technology and Hybrid Drop Protection for Google Pixel 2016 - Crystal Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX6CDHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6M1Pyb6KC420F)

Honorable mention if you want the thinnest case (note: This case won't fit over a dBrand skin.) [Niilken Nature series. ](http://www.Google.com/ Pixel Case, Nillkin Nature Series Clear Soft TPU Case Back Cover [Ultra Thin] [Slim Fit] for Google Pixel - Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8VGLYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DO1PybYSP36XD)

I also found these [Yootech glass screen protectors](http://www.Google.com/ Pixel Screen Protector [5.0"] [2-Pack] [Update Version],Yootech Google Pixel Tempered Glass Screen Protector for Google Pixel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPY1RPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oP1Pyb5Y22PEZ) to be more than good enough but they cover screen only and not full front (supposedly due to the subtle curvature of the fines edge).


Of course you can never go wrong with a nice dBrand skin for that finishing touch.


Hope this helps.

Look for a cable which specify that it has a"56K" resistor . The charger must be able to detect that it can do fast charging, if not will just do standard charge. Something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb-c+56k&qid=1568905551&sr=8-3

Length of the cable does not matter. Fast charging require changing the voltage so it's 9V or higher not 5 V so there is some required spec for this to work properly, so a simple cable may only do the 5V standard charge.

USB-C is the shape/design of the end-connector.

USB 3.0 is the specification for cabling/data-transfer.

What you need there is a USB-A to USB-C cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1486392629&sr=8-13&keywords=usb-a+to+usb-c

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E9W8KYC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1

Anker 6 foot $10
Different sizes

I looked at some of the amazon basic cables. They seem okay, I guess. They are decently priced so I may go for them as I need multiple. I need one for my car so I can use my phone for android auto, one for my PC and a third as a backup in case I lose/break one.

Edit: I have gone ahead and ordered 3 of the Amazon basic cables here. The reviews seem really good and at a good price. 3 of these cost around the same as a single cable in local stores around me. Thanks for the help.

Here ya go: AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYR2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3Ms5AbFA4JZFT



http://imgur.com/gCTPlss

Use a USB C to USB A cable.

I have a 20176 Hyundai Sonata and PH-1. Tried using the AmazonBasics cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYR2O/) and still doens't work. I've also tried this Anker cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LNAAEJ2/) and it also doesn't work!

Anker Powerline+ are my go to cables. My pixel wont be here for a month, but have already bought my some cables to go along with it.
They have USBC to USBC, USBA 3.0 to USBC, pretty much any combo you'd need.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Durability-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483545683&sr=8-4&keywords=ANker+powerline%2B+USB+c

I use an Anker Power line and Cable Creations. Both are great. The Anker is 6' the cable creations is 10'. I use the Google type C brick for both.

Anker PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy Note 8 S8 S8+ S9, iPad Pro 2018, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, Huawei Matebook, MacBook and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6hF7CbNYHEMBD

USB C Cable 10ft, CableCreation USB C to USB C Braided Data & Charging Cable (20V,3A) up to 480Mbps, Compatible with MacBook(Pro), Galaxy S10/S9/S9+, Pixel XL 2,etc (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ujF7Cb6HSQV6D

if you just want a cheap, workable cable for the beta go for something like this from Anker

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-MacBook/dp/B01MZIPYPY/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=usb+3+to+usb+c+15ft&qid=1569530743&s=gateway&sr=8-16

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01MZIPYPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?keywords=anker+cable+type+c&qid=1573507911&sr=8-19

Anker Powerline USB C to USB 3.0 Cable, 3m

It's bit heavy

The cable at the top of the Pro Controller and the bottom of the Switch itself is USB-C, which isn't a proprietary connector, so...there is a longer wire.

They'll be stored on the PC. This is the cable that's been officially recommended by Oculus.

26' for $26. Works a dream.

CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster for $13 — this was the extension cable for the other one I purchased:

Anker Powerline USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (10ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for $13.

The recommended cable is sold out everywhere. I tried a different cable and didn't work. Surprisingly, this Amazon Basics one (recommended by others) worked great:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't HAVE to have a gadget, or even an ETC device, with the nomad key dongle you can also output to sACN or Artnet. These nodes can be had for about half the price of the gadget II!

I also suggest doing what ETC does with their PUCK. They put the nomad key dongle inside the NCU to keep it from being lost or stolen. You can use something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S.

As for the security of the USB port, moving the flash drive into the case can deter accidental or casual mischief.
If you have a spare USB header inside something like this lets you relocate the USB to inside.

After 2-3 years I have no problem using some ordinary SanDisk sticks. There is also a section in the FreeNAS manual for mirroring the boot device on 2x USB drives.'

EDIT: FreeNAS is unlikely to preserve the data from a Linux software RAID. In fact, probably can't read data from pretty much any other filesystem. May need to restore from a backup in order to load up the NAS.

No clue. Probably because it's a workaround. If you have 35 bucks to drop, I'd highly recommend this card:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=19PXRWYDINS8Q&coliid=I2SHEBGBZQJW43

It's amazing quality, easy with drivers, etc. Works perfectly with OBS once you install the drivers, which there's a tutorial on how to do it in the amazon reviews (it's click a couple boxes, but it's all in Japanese lol).

I use that, with this splitter, and S-video. Here's an example of what it looks like with my setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RN9E1OSVgHo

When you're just getting into it, you don't need to record. You could also just use the ol' webcam-at-the-screen. If you're serious about posting your times to leaderboards, get a capture card. This one is good and cheap https://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y

Easycap clones ($5-10~)

If you're extremely short on funds you can play the easycap clone roulette and hope you get one that kinda works maybe.

You might end up getting one that just happens to suite your needs fine.... or you might not.

Not Reccomended, but cheap

Used Dazzle DVC100 ($20~)

Dazzles can be somewhat cheap used, they're still not the best capture cards money can buy and have some driver issues, but it's a popular choice and works for a lot of people well enough. Can be found on ebay for pretty cheap.

Probably the cheapest option aside from the "Easycrap" clones

KWorld ($30~)

/u/TLoZSR mentioned a while back that he was a fan of This KWorld Capture card.

I've seen a few of his videos with it and they look perfectly fine.

EZCaps ($30-$35~)

I've heard ok things about the legit EZCaps (not the cheap clones)
If you go this route make sure you're not ending up with a fake!

I don't have any personal experience with them.

GV-USB2 ($50~)

This defiantly deserves an honorable mention, although isn't anywhere as cheap as a used dazzle. Default settings out of the box are great, picture quality is very good, good drivers, and pretty much no complaints. Oh and here's an amazon link I guess (can be hard to find elsewhere). Box / driver installation is in Japanese, but not too difficult to figure out.

I use it personally and I really like it

These are all SD capture cards with composite/S-video, composite will look not so great regardless of a powered splitting setup, however it's defiantly recommended if you use S-Video (powered splitters can cost $30-50~), alternatively you may be able to get by without splitters if you have a video cable with both S-Video and composite (s-video would go into your capture card), but you may also lose a bit of quality that way if the cables aren't too good.

https://kb.speeddemosarchive.com/Splitters explains a fair bit

Good Luck!

Order a GV-USB2 if you need a capture card for your console. It's $50 and works great.

https://www.amazon.com/I-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y

As for recording Faster Melee, use nVidia ShadowPlay if you can (as it will take frames directly from the GPU and have little-no impact on your CPU) or some sort of software that can screen capture (OBS, Fraps, XSplit, Gameshow, etc)

It's a small investment to be able to help each other. Reviewing sets is huge.

I think the Wii U should output an HDMI signal, but for older consoles like the N64, I've heard great things about the GV-USB2. Most N64 speedruners I know use it. It's (relatively) cheap too! $35 USD on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y. I believe it's imported from japan.

From what I've been told and read on, most everyone recommends getting a GV-USB2. Dazzle DC100 is also an option but it needs some workarounds to get proper sound working in OBS. I used to use a Sabrent VR-GRBR for a few years. It was 20 bucks at the time with pass through (read: no splitters) and the cables so the deal was worth the money. However, the quality was kind of ass. It would have random artifact problems and slowly degraded over time now it just plain doesn't work anymore. I know some people stream with EZCap which is basically the budgety version of a GV-USB2.


If you really want to go all out though, you'd be looking at running RGB out into an upscaler for a HD capture device, but that gets pricy depending on which systems you own and everything.

This adapter is a good one for the price.

Edit: Linked the wrong one

Since you say you're not tech savvy, I'm gonna assume you'd rather not hard-mod your N64 to output a component (480p) signal. Also, N64's output resolution is remarkably low so it doesn't take much to capture good looking N64 gameplay.

What you probably want is an S-video cable (this is the kind I use). I know it says for gamecube, but video cables for gamecube, n64 and snes are universally interchangeable, so you're good.

For capture, the best bang for your buck is gv-usb2. For streaming a composite or s-video signal it's pretty much the universal standard.

Hope this helped.

I wrote about this on an FAQ I made some time ago. The GameCapture HD seems to be a bit cheaper than the Avermedia Extreme, and I have one and enjoy it and I see other people recommend it as well. Here's the section that mentions capture cards so you don't have to click the link:

tl;dr: I recommend Elgato GameCapture HD, and you shouldn't need a special graphics card at all.

How do I record my gameplay? What capture device should I use, and how do I set it up?

If you're playing a game on a console ask yourself this question: Do you want a cheaper standard definition capture device, or would you rather have a more expensive high definition device?

If you want a cheaper device, many people recommend the GV-USB2. It's considered the best SD capture device on the market, so if you're recording the older consoles that don't need HD video, then this should work perfectly.

If you want a higher definition device, I recommend the Elgato GameCapture HD. It's very easy to use and the output is excellent. Keep in mind that, at the moment, if you use the GameCapture HD, you might have to use XSplit instead of OBS to stream. OBS currently has an issue with the GameCapture HD that causes it to desync, and in my experience XSplit doesn't have this issue. However, this could change at any time. Some people are able to use OBS with their GameCapture HD without any problems, but I was getting a lot of delay and couldn't find any fix for it within OBS.

In addition to the capture device, you will need TWO double sided composite video cables, and you will need THREE splitters.

Here's a picture of how to set up your capture device using the GameCapture HD and a Nintendo 64 as an example. The setup would be the exact same using the GV-USB2 and any other console that uses composite cables. If using the GameCapture HD and HDMI cables, the GameCapture HD has an HDMI in and HDMI out port, so you would just use two HDMI cables, one going from your console to HDMI in, and another going from HDMI out to the TV.

Note that recording handheld games can be pretty difficult and sometimes expensive. For recording GameBoy games, you can use any capture device and the GameBoy Player for the GameCube. If you're recording on one of the newer systems like Vita or 3DS there are ways to add a capture card to the systems, but that can be risky, expensive, or both. I believe Vita players can opt into PlayStation Now to record Vita games as well.

Once you have the capture device setup, you can continue to the PC section below. Since the point of the capture device is to put the output on your computer for easy recording, most any livestreaming program or recording program should be able to grab your console output and record it for you. Some capture devices might come with their own programs to record with as well, and you're free to use that.

If you're playing a game on PC then recording is much cheaper and simpler, mostly because all you need is just one program. For local recording you can use something like FRAPS or you could use OBS, and if you want to livestream then the popular choices are OBS and XSplit. I don't recommend XSplit if you want to focus on local recordings only because it saves files as .flv and I find those more difficult to work with than what FRAPS or OBS can output. I won't go into depth with the setup for those as there are many tutorials elsewhere for that kind of thing.

TOTAL noob question but would this work with the GV-USB2 for SD consoles to OBS?

Or would I still need to go the route of grabbing two male/male cables and three splitters?

2.0 3.0

This is the one I have, it's worked perfectly for me for over a year: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005M0ICG2/

A y cable might work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005M0ICG2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_pXR2wbSV88XBF

Or a Brand Flash Drive 128gb ~ $25 - $50 amazon and ebay
EDIT: For $56.99 you can get a 1TB (~960gb) HDD but you need a Y cable which is $6 more ($63 semi-total for HDD)
Have a great day!
Links:
Y-Cable, HDD
and the FlashDrive

There's no real good summary in the comments here, and I just looked into all of this since I'm in the same situation.

Nintendo recommends you use an externally powered hard drive, like this. The single USB port doesn't have enough power to use a more portable hard drive, like this, unless you have a Y-cable, like this. The Y-cable provides enough power to the hard drive for proper operation since there are two usb ports. The problem is that Y-cables can be hard to find locally, and you almost always have to order them online. Mine is taking 3 weeks to get here.

Flash drives can also be used, but Nintendo says that the constant writing and re-writing that occurs on the drive as a result of gameplay can eventually corrupt what is on the flash drive, possibly deleting data and save files. Of course, it's up to you what you do, but the general consensus is that externally powered hard drives are the most reliable way to go.

If you google "Nintendo Wii U Hard Drives" Nintendo has a whole page on it. Can't link to it since I'm at work.

Here ya go: http://www.amazon.ca/eForCity-Micro-B-USB-Cable-Black/dp/B005M0ICG2

No, flash drives aren't built for constant read-writes like other drives. It will greatly shorten the life span of the device.

Sounds like you already have an hard drive. Just look for an USB 3.0 external case for it, kinda like this 10$ case

Then a Y-cable

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-B-External-Seagate-Toshiba-Hitachi/dp/B005M0ICG2/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479001234&sr=1-2&keywords=mini+usb+3+y+cable

You'll need a Y-Cable to power it with the Wii U, but it will work just fine.

Lightning provides little power - you'll need to provide external power either through a Lightning dongle supporting it or Y-cable like this -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005M0ICG2

Here you go. I've been using this one for 2 yrs with no issue. It's USB 3.0 $6.99 & Prime Eligible.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005M0ICG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered this along with a y cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRZ2PRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005M0ICG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wanted to keep it to a terabyte or lower since the hard drive has to be dedicated to the Wii U due to Nintendo's encryption. I read reviews for both the hard drive and y cable and multiple users stated they worked well with their Wii U.

The old 500GB drive from your PS4 will make an excellent hard drive for your Wii U if you don't have one yet. If you follow this guide, you'll put your PS4's old drive in the enclosure of the replacement drive, so it's almost ready to go. Just get a Y-cable for it (if it's a USB 3.0 drive, use this one), and remove all the partitions from it (no need for even format it), and plug it into your Wii U, go it its settings menu to finish the setup.

Well that sounds great, but I just realized I built the cable from the recommended 15 ft cables on this(yours?) video.

Watch "EXTRA-LONG 15' Oculus Rift Break-Out Cable - IT WORKS!" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/uuNTtSQg02w

Using these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NU0GAb2ATKYJJ

And

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5EUD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_iW0GAbDF13ZN7

It does not work on 2 of my 3 motherboards.

Order some wall mounts (generic tripod thread - tons of amazon) - a USB 3.0 Extension cable for each sensor (5M Cable Matters active model for $16 works great) and you'll be good. This will allow you to mount your two sensors in opposing corners for Roomscale tracking - provided your room is of adequate size.

You can extend the rift's own cable(s) with a 6ft HDMI extension cable, and 6ft passive USB 3.0 extension cable. Anything beyond that will likely give you problems. Get some velcro straps to tie both of those extensions together and it'll double as a breakaway cable were you to tug on it too hard.

Maybe consider grabbing an add-in PCI-E USB 3.0 card. I ordered this Startech.com USB 3.1 card for $35 because USB 3.1 controllers can handle 10Gbps of throughput, which theoretically means both of these ports should be able to run at the full 5Gbps 3.0 mode, so it could handle both sensors with ease.The amazon reviews have some Rift users implying it works great.

Also - you'll get Robo Recall for free, it's a great action game to get started in. It'll set the bar pretty high for you - but it's a very comfortable (and often intense!) experience.

This HDMI and USB extenders should give you enough.

> In the best case scenario i can only get 10 linear feet (16 ft cord, 6 foot tall person = 10 feet)

Also the Math says in best case you'll get 14.8 linear feet.

Below are the cables I used, all worked flawless for me, however I bought the $80 5gbps USB hub card

approved 6ft usb extension

approved 6ft 4k HDMI

for sensor extensions

This is what I use on my room scale setup, it all works flawlessly:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQS2C7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And of course, the third sensor :)

Looks like one of these, though I can't be 100% sure:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_uOz7yb0WFS8V6

Edit: spelling

Mini usb-b

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s-jGDbHA1XM47

And HDMI

For connecting it to a PC?

Use a standard USB A to Mini USB B cable, something a bit like this

If it's to connect it to a TV, then you want a mini-HDMI to HDMI cable, like this one

If it's the connector for remote shutter control, then this is what you might need

Hope this helps

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2XD0PP5ZN2VZF7FB2XTB

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2XD0PP5ZN2VZF7FB2XTB

These two extension cables are what I use to extend my Rift, and they work flawlessly. This is Canadian amazon though so you can prob get them even cheaper on American site or where ever you are from.

I also use 3 meters passive extension cable with two sensors. It works fine.

This one to be precise.

After reading the reviews, I feel the same way.

Most of the 5 star reviews from the United States look kind of fake because none of them seem to speak English properly.

Examples:

>factory cable and charges with dash....like get than stock cable.
>
>did not tried yet
>
>I'm very satisfi3ed with this short cable...

I would just get the charger from OnePlus themselves (click here).

Although the one from OnePlus is only 150 cm, you can always use a cheap USB extension cable from Amazon (click here) to make the cable longer. The one I linked can extend your cable about 300 centimeters.

I ended up putting my PC in the corner with the middle sensor and purchased 3 10ft USB 3.0 extensions and a 10ft HDMI extension.

If curious, here is what I got.

2x USB 3.0 extensions for 2 of the 3 sensors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x USB 3.0 extension for HMD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/css/order-history?ie=UTF8&ref_=nav_nav_orders_first&

1x HDMI extension for HMD (2 pack but I only used 1 of them)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these every foot of the USB/HDMI cables for the HMD to bind them together.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Headset HDMI Extender - 10' - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Headset USB Extender - 10' - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Two Sensor USB Extenders - 15' - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was playing Arizona Sunshine last night, zero issues with this setup.

Well then...

Here's one.

Note that there is the possibility of damage to the computer.

One from Amazon if you would rather buy from there. Great idea though!!

HIGHROCK 30cm USB 2.0 a Power Enhancer Y 1 Female to 2 Male Data Charge Cable Extension Cord(1pc) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NIGO4NM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5wwFzb1SRNQH8

If you are running a little low and need to connect to UL panels, you could always bridge two of them together with this.

Grab yourself one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adapter-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/

This is what I use, does the trick. You can use any cable you want as long as you put this at the end of it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

http://amazon.de/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

Good call. This one gets pretty good reviews.

I had the same problem, and the simple solution was a small USB device that blocks data so the phone only charges. When I connect my phone to my car's audio, it's over Bluetooth.

I carry data cables and a "USB condom" for charging from insecure sources.

Buy a USB Condom (not kidding).

HERE

Hey man, mind giving me a link to the USB C-A cable you got? I've tried googling it but all that I come up with was --> this and I'm really not sure if its the right one... Not that familiar with the different usb types there is.

Even for those, can't you just use a USB-C to USB-A cable if you wanted to charge or connect to the front panel? Something like this for example?

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Type-USB-C-Black/dp/B00S8GU2OC

(Genuinely asking, I've never had anything with USB-C before so not sure how it works)

In preparation for my 5x's arrival, I've ordered the following:

• Aukey Dual 2.4a car charger Coupon code WZE6JCXG to get it for $5.99
  
• USB A to C 3.3ft cable
  
• 2 pack Micro USB to Usb C adapters
  
• Diztronic tpu case
  
• Pleson Tempered Glass Screen Protector
  
  Hopefully some of my time and effort make your searching a little bit easier.
  
  Edit: Reposted, hopefully the affiliate link is removed.
  
  EDIT2: CABLE MATTERS IS STILL SHIPPING OUT OF SPEC CABLES AVOID THEM

Deploy a Citrix or RDP redirect to his corporate PC over VPN VM for him to use with 2 factor authentication and a US-based certificate authority. That way he can travel with no corporate data in tow, where he might be forced to decrypt the laptop for foreign border agencies which are known to work with intelligence services. Since he will want to travel light, perhaps buy him a Macbook and don't forget power converters for Africa. Don't forget to deploy antivirus (with an uninstall password set) and filevault, even on Mac and make sure he cannot save the password in the RDP software. If you do go the Mac route, don't forget to deploy a password on the firmware as well. Don't give him local admin on the laptop but insert a local admin account for a backup he doesn't know exists unless told about in a troubleshooting session.

I hate Surface Pro's but they are such a bitch to tamper with (don't forget to also setup secure boot microsoft only, no USB boot allowed in the uefi firmware and set a password on it) that most attempts would be physically visible. Remember, give him a REALLY GOOD remote experience (Citrix works good over high latency / low bandwidth links) and he will want to comply with all of this.

Do not allow him under any circumstances to take an Android phone overseas. I highly recommend a iPhone with a heavy duty "Unicorn Beetle" case (check Amazon) and a USB charge only cable: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Block-20AWG-Lightning-Cable/dp/B01F7AU62E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957207&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+only+iphone&dpID=31dRwWAKkBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

For everything else: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Data-Blocker-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00T0DW3F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957248&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+only+adapter

and send him with at least two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957319&sr=8-1&keywords=hotel+room+lock these should be inside his laptop bag and with him at all times. I recommend a backpack: North Face Borealis.

If he's going out of cell range, I recommend purchasing a Garmin Inreach and activating it for $65 a month. It will allow him to cheaply send and receive SMS messages via Iridum and a smartphone. Let him know that any communications over this is not secure whatsoever.

Run firmware updates on everything right before he leaves.

Perhaps a bit. The only reason I mentioned SyncStop is that it's the most well-known of these types of devices. Other brands are available, including PortaPow and Plugable. Additionally, you could always simply make your own.

Thats why these exist. That being said it is more than likely fine.

The charger isn't compliant with the USB charging spec, not the cable. I bought this. It's pretty good and "Benson" approved

I'm pretty happy with this one: http://www.amazon.com/iOrange-E-Braided-Reversible-Connector-ChromeBook/dp/B010VFFU1W

I'm pretty sure it's Benson approved.

I have no idea what's going with all the links in this thread. If you want this cable just search: iorange USB c

Check out this cable.It's 6 ft long and one of the sturdiest cables I have ever owned.

$5 more but this one also worked for me, via VM even: iOrange

with coupon: SlickDeal

Try this cable

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010VFFU1W/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1463235900&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41NNQ7vh4aL&ref=plSrch

Also, as far as charges go, I bought the official 'Google' charger:
https://store.google.com/product/usb_c_charger?hl=en_US

And then the following cables:

Anker 1m A to C cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0119EIHTG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages01

iOrange 2m A to C cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010VFFU1W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages01

It appears that only 1m cables will deliver USB 3.0 speeds. The phone doesn't do USB 3.0, but good to have for future proofing. The Google charger will be used at work, the charger that came with the phone plugged in by the couch. The 2M cable will be paired with a 'slow charging' brick (My Nexus 7 power adapter) and the 1M cable will be my multi-purpose one for my portable battery pack, or for the car. Should probably buy another 1M just to have it around.

I use this type myself: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M

These should work to: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8

They do come a lot cheaper than that though.


https://www.amazon.ca/CableCreation-Meters-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1P9H9B7CK4OM4&keywords=usb+3+0+active+extension+cable&qid=1551396803&s=electronics&sprefix=usb+3.0+a%2Celectronics%2C242&sr=1-3

My existing CV1 setup already had wiring for 4 sensors, 3 of which required active extension, so I tapped into the far one that went across the ceiling with the 10 foot USB-C Anker 3.0 cable recommended by Oculus, and it works flawlessly.

The visuals were excellent. For me this looks better than the Rift S (personally, since I have an IPD of 59, along with the beautiful OLED displays this has). I didn't notice any artifacts or compression when playing, but I do think this thing is sensitive to having a very good USB port, so results may vary.

The lower refresh rate is definitely noticeable compared to the CV1 and I played worse than usual in beat saber (on expert). The tracking is also obviously more limited than the CV1 with more than 2 sensors (which this would beat), especially in games like Echo VR, but I also had some issues with the S in that game when I tried it. This is comparing to a perfect 4 sensor setup with a $120 quad channel USB card, so it's not exactly fair.

You can't beat the simplicity this provides for just getting into PCVR.

Here is the link the the extension cable. It's cheaper than it was back when I got them for my sensors: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8

Just order it from here: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01LNAAEJ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Anker%2Busb%2B3&qid=1574498811&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

I live in Sweden too and on Monday I should be getting it. Its 1.8m long but I ordered an active extension like this: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cablecreation&qid=1574499015&sprefix=CableC&sr=8-3

Thanks very much for suggestion,

This worked for us as well.

​

Here is what we used from Amazon USA:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IE3IAIS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCZCVF8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And since there is enough cord for ceiling mount now:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GV8CNPW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Total of $175, but closest I can get to wireless for now.

MRTV got this 5M active extender working https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8

He also plugged a 1M C to A cable in to connect it to the headset, total of 19 bucks. Does anyone know a longer cable I can plug into this extender? Like 2 or 3M? Just want to know before I order.

Lone Echo
Brass Tactics
Chronos
Star Trek Bridge Crew
Elite Dangerous
Project Cars 2
Hellblade: Senua's Sacrifice VR Edition
Alien Isolation (Mother Mod)


Also, according to the pinned thread, this extension cable works:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't tried it yet since I just ordered it, but others have verified that it works.

This has worked for me so far. Oculus immediately recognized it. Just had to restart the Quest each time I want to use Link.

After going through six other cables, including USB-C to C and USB-C to A, I can confirm the following works:

JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/

EDIT: Added to Link Hardware Poll

I can also confirm the followed didn't work for me (in a PCI-E USB-C adapter or the RXT2080 USB-C):

DIDN'T WORK - CableCreation USB C Cable 10ft, Braided USB-C 10ft https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D175HMO/


DIDN'T WORK: AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C 10ft
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWC39TL/

I had the same exact problem--I also have a VW Golf. I bought this cable and it works like a charm: Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ELuQRDeHM44vi

I have this Anker cable and can confirm it is good quality: Anker PowerLine USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG

I bought this one and although it arrived faulty, Anker immediately sent me a replacement because their customer service is awesome.

The replacement is perfect.

I ordered the cable /u/Devil_Vagina_Magic referenced earlier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I get it I'll report back if I'm getting the same issue with no data transfer when connected to a 3.0 port.

Not sure if it will help, and don't have your phone, I have the Pixel 2 XL, but cables make a massive difference. Not 100% sure if the cable is your problem or the OS, but I do have the two similar Pioneer decks (2330NEX and 4200NEX). Make sure your firmware on the Pioneer is updated. The 2330NEX used to take minutes to connect to AA, and now it is under 2-3 seconds. If USB-C, this cable has worked well for me, and eliminate the same error message above: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG

​

This is the Cable I bought that works great with my 2017 Subaru Impreza

Yes, its a USB-C to USB 3.0 anker cable that has velcro.

I purchased it from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most (windows) laptops are equipped with the normal USB-A or USB 3.0. You need to buy a cable that has USB Type C to normal USB.

Any products with the same two ends are suitable. Here is just one example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01A6F3WHG/ref=psdcmw_2407774011_t1_B0119EIHTG?th=1&psc=1

There are some things you could try out, if you haven't already.

1. My most important point, choosing a "High/Ultimate Performance" or equivalent setting (use your best option) on your battery power. I shouldn't need to say this, but you get better performance with the powercable attached.
   
   
2. Remember to deactivate USB selective suspend and do the same in your Device Manager, so that your computer doesn't hibernate or adjust USB power-settings. I know the OculusTrayTool does the same/similar, if you use it, but I've not been lucky enough to have that work when I need it to.
   
   
3. Also, make sure you've removed as many USB-devices from your computer as possible. For example; external harddrives, mouse, keyboard, headset (if USB), even memory sticks, so that they don't draw power away from your USB channels. You might actually want some of these connected while you play, but try without first, to figure out whether or not it works. Your ports share channels, you see, so they are affected by each other.
   
   
4. You probably don't want to go looking for further extension cables at this point, but I use these ones, and they work very well.
   
   
5. Remember to update your USB drivers. Feel free to check your Asus website first, but Windows 10 might have new and better drivers, or the manufacturer of the chip could have even newer. There are ways to discover the manufacturer's name and model of your USB device in Device Manager, if you know where to look. Google it. ;) Mind you, keep your Asus drivers ready as backup, because the computer might not "officially" support it, though it's easy to roll back drivers. After driver-update, you might have to repeat option [2].
   
   
6. If you have software that controls USB-ports to an extent (like apps looking for USB devices), disabling them could help, but you need to restart and ensure they don't start automatically again. There're some split opinions out there on whether or not it helps, but I'm including it just in case.
   
   I advise you to restart your computer after you've done your adjustments and connected your Rift, so that the computer will prioritize the USB power-draw correctly on startup.
   
   Chances are you've tried these options already, but if not, give them a try. Unfortunately, I can't think of any other alternatives. The VR-tests I can find of your laptop seem to have been done without extensions. Feel free to contact Asus support - they might have some recommendations, as I doubt you'll be the first with the issue.
   
   Good luck!
   
   
   
   
   

So I had this issue with rift on and off for a year

My end game solution, after wasting tons of money on failed solutions, was buying an 4 independent bus usb 3.0 pcie expansion board (plugged into pcie 16x slot)

I tried a cheap 1 usb bus cards with 4 USB ports and it just is too much strain for 1 bus with all these cameras plus everything else on my PC. Even with that extra bus on that expansion card it’s simply not enough.

what finally worked was the 4 independent 3.0 buses on that card.

I have 3 rift cameras and the headset plugged into the card each one with a dedicated usb bus and none of on my mobo

I’m on mobile at the moment but lemme try to find the link.. if I can’t it was from Startech

Here think this is it https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Make sure you select quad bus or you will be wasting your time.

The last part of this usb disconnect drama for me was a proper usb 3.0 repeater extension cable (on my 3rd and furtherest rear camera). I did a lot of buying and experimenting with these too but this one is the one that finally played nice with rift

https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Repeater-Booster/dp/B0179MXKU8/

After this combo I now finally have flawless no random disconnect usage of my rift

Took a damn year to sort all this out.

I hope it helps

For the basic kid if you have 3 empty USB3s and one empty USB2, the basic kit will work. However if you want to expand to mroe sensors you should get yourself a PCIe expansion card for sure.

​

I would say you will most likely need extension cables but really only you can tell. Depends on where your computer is in relation to where you want to put sensors but typically you'll need extensions for at least the rear sensor. For the basic kit you'll want the sensors diagonally across your play space from each other for 360 degree tracking most likely.

​

This is what I use on the sensors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_SJezCbYXW3QG7

and this is what i use on the hMd

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C2KWVG1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_yKezCbV90DRGG

​

But if you start extending the HMD cable you'll also need a repeater

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777SCQZX/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_0KezCb26FRGZY

And then just a good quality longer HDMI cable (not an extension) like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XM9774/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_MLezCb73XVA8C

​

​

Ah a good question. I was using the included extended (2.0) but switched to using 2x CableCreation USB 3 extension cables

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.IM6BbZDFMMWN


If there are any specific tests or benchmarks you’d like me to run I am open to help :)

No. This is what you need: CableCreation (Long 16FT) Super Speed Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB Male to Female Repeater Cable with Signal Booster for Oculus Rift,Xbox,PS4 and More, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0eJWBb05A2Y2S

Your mileage will vary based on your computer hardware but personally I'm using an unpowered cheapo hub that supports USB 2.0 from Wal-Mart
(which only has my Warthog throttle + stick + TRP pedals plugged in), and I'm using a long USB 3.0 extension that has a repeater (which was leftover from my Oculus setup. My flight sim setup is too far from my desktop to reach). It's plugged into a USB 3.0 port on my computer, as 3.0 supports a higher current draw. Have had zero issues so far, though I plan to upgrade to a cheapo 3.0 hub (only using the 2.0 temporarily as I had it laying around).

If you have an unpowered hub laying around, it's worth trying. But if you want a guarantee of no issues (especially if your computer power supply is on a tight margin), a powered hub may be the way to go.

If you're in no hurry and have stores nearby with good return policies, you could even buy a cheap unpowered and return it if it doesn't work.

I am using these USB 3 Active Extension Cables. It gives you an extra 16 ft. I have my sensors mounted to the ceiling so I just run the cable across the ceiling using screw eyes and s-biners.

does anyone know if these would work as well for the sensor?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8

I had a similar problem with my rooms about 10' apart and had to move my PC to the VR space and running extensions back to my desk for my monitor and peripherals.

I got a powered USB hub mounted on my desk with a 16' active USB 3.0 extension plugged into the back of the PC down the hall. I wanted 3.0 because I am using that Ethernet port on the USB hub too. I also got a 15ft DVI extension for the monitor so I ended up with only have two cables to hide in the hallway. The cable clips aren't invisible but they are at least neat and clean. The 16' of cable for 10' of hallway was just enough length so make sure you get enough to make a few turns or go up and down walls.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IDI9V3W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_EqmdpgNxHP8EJ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_d3IqEJrUAvYdL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGTL0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_e9KeYg4pNLDgb

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y1RGPP/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_uUBWLUVkBZQLL

Check this out: CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension ... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_A7SGzbTM1WHXB

It extends the sensor as USB 3.0 without issues.

The officially recommended one, plus this extension: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/

Buy an active extender, then you'll have 22 feet!!

CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a8X3DbJGG24WF

Maybe, but I refunded the UGreen and got the CableCreation extender instead. It works, but it doesn't have added power so it won't charge as well. Still works for me though!If the Ugreen doesn't work for others, try this one: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=cablecreation&qid=1574475246&sr=8-13


Edit: Using it with the 10ft Anker Powerline USB3.0 cable recommended by Oculus, btw.

I got my cable in and grabbed one of my Cable Creations 3.0 5m cables out of the closet and it seems to be working fine. Got to soften up this anker cable and get some more velcro tiedowns but it worked great in some pavlov matches.

​

https://smile.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3PS4KD79BRGYI&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0+extension&qid=1574390846&sprefix=cable+creations%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.de/CableCreation-Aktives-Verl%C3%A4ngerungskabel-Extender-Weibliches/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=usb+3.0+aktiv&qid=1574109191&sr=8-3 german amazon, but you'll find the exact same cable under a number of different brand names.

If you intend to do that, you'd likely need an active USB extension cable such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/.

If you want to go much longer than 3m you're probably gonna need an active extension cable. This 5m one works, according to tests by some other users: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/

Then you can plug it into a shorter A-to-C cable for even more length.

I am using a 16 ft. USB 3.0 active adapter and also have a 6 ft. USB 3.0 (non active) plugged into the same sensor (totaling in 22 ft.) no issues and shows up as USB 3.0 on Oculus Home.


These are the ones I used:

• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B014RWATK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used both of these cables to successfully extend my Vive and Index

​

Display port extension:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1KDE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

USB 3.0 extension:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

be sure to use an ACTIVE usb extension.

Bought this, works like a charm :
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Exactly. I'm using this 16ft cable along with an additional 1.5ft male to male cable (in order to have a male connecter on end to plug into vive link box):

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My setup is like this
PC > 1.5ft USB 3.0 male to male > 16ft active USB 3.0 Extension > Vive Link Box > Odyssey+

Works flawlessly. No issues whatsoever. Only thing is you have to power cycle the link box after you plug the Odyssey in otherwise it won't be detected.

No problem. Best stick to the cables & cards etc in the FAQ here if you can, especially if using long cables at the usb max lengths. FWIW my more distant two sensors are fed by a single active 5m USB3 cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Into a powered USB3 hub

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00ZQFYWJY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

& are the only thing on that particular usb controller.

I would get a USB wireless dongle, USB extension, and a directional antenna. To make this work, the dongle must have a removable antenna. If shipping is not an expense, I would buy step-by-step, starting with the dongle, then extension, finally the antenna (and antenna mounting solution).

I have no personal experience with this equipment. It was chosen because of features (like replaceable antennas) and Amazon reviews.

Alfa AWUS036AC Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB Adapter With 2x Dual-Band (2.4GHz / 5GHz) external antenna for Extreme Distance Connection - Up to 300 Mbps - USB 3.0 - AC1200 Wireless chip - USB desktop Dock Included

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

Alfa APA-M25 dual band 2.4GHz/5GHz 10dBi high gain directional indoor panel antenna with RP-SMA connector (compare to Asus WL-ANT-157)

All together, this is 95 CAD, but I expect the first item will solve the problem. If you do get the high-gain antenna, try it as a replacement of each of the side antennas on the USB dongle. This is because one antenna might be more important to the device then the other.

PSA: I was having issues with the sensor constantly disconnecting using the OP's active cable and Oculus' recommended Intateck card. Just purchased the CableCreation extension after reading this post and it seems to have solved my problem.

Just a reminder, you need a VR-ready PC to play PC VR games, so it needs to be a powerful gaming PC.

And you don't have to cancel your Anker cable necessarily. There are extensions you can get that make up for the length until the official Link cable comes out. I've heard from several people this one works for example.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8

That one will add 16 extra feet for a total of 22 feet for yours. And it's quite cheap.

I use my Rift about 10 ft from my PC so I purchased the recommended cable and PCIe card. Only needed if youre playing away from you main PC

THESE ARE PERFECT https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the recommended cable and got this to give me 20+ ft


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wanted to make a quick post - using the Anker recommended cable (3M).
I tried the AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable along with Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable - Both 3M - neither worked.


Finally, I tried CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT) - THIS WORKS, and it's way longer than the others.

I am using this one:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CE6/

Also people are having luck with this:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/

This is my setup:

PC (Asus ROG STRIX Z390-I + EVGA RTX 2080 XC)

v

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01FQ88CE6/ (5m USB 3 active cable)

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07KBTH6TS/ (USB 3 Hub)

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07D7N96FL/ (3m USB-c 3.1 cable)

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B078YRKTKM/ (USB-c 90 adapter)

v

Quest

Seems kinda janky. Some games run well and uh some really do not lol

Not faulting anything since well AMD isn't supported to begin with, and well it's a beta that JUST came out, but I'm hoping that it gets ironed out as the beta goes along. Really see the potential and it could be a great thing once it all gets sorted out.

Oh I should probably list specs? We're all probably running around trying to figure out exactly what cable to get so figured it'd help posting em.


GPU: PowerColor Red Dragon RX 5700

CPU: Ryzen 2600 OC'd to 4.1

Cable: JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A Charging Data Cable [Heavy Duty Nylon Braided] for iPad Pro 12.9/11 Galaxy S10 S9 Note 10+ 10 9 Tab S4 Nintendo Switch (Black)

Extender (which is just for extra length both cables work): CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

https://www.amazon.com/JOTO-Type-C-Charging-Braided-Nintendo/dp/B017COHTJ6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=JOTO+USB+Type+C+Cable+Extra+Long+10ft%2C+USB-C+3.1+Type-C+to+USB+3.0&qid=1574454939&sr=8-1

I can confirm that these 2 cables work together. (16ft.) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oculus Link: Working 6m/20ft Cable For $19!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNVmk-qywnk&t=68s

I grabbed this one and it works perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017COHTJ6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I even had a 6ft 3.0 non avtive extension and they're suprisingly playing well together at 16ft total. :)

Edit: oh wow it was 14.99 when I ordered it yesterday morning. Guess they upped the price with demand :(

I can confirm this combination works for me:


JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A Charging Data Cable [Heavy Duty Nylon Braided]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017COHTJ6


Maxhood USB C Type C Male to Female Adapter, Right & Left Angled 90 Degree USB-C USB 3.1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071W22WNP


and then I tried the Active USB 3.0 repeater I bought for the Rift a couple of years ago and it worked!

UGREEN USB Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Male to Female Active Repeater Cable with Signal Amplifier

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CE6

Ditch the default USB cable by Focusrite. I have the Scarlett 2i2 and the Clarett 4Pre USB. I put the Scarlett to bed the moment the Clarett arrived. The cables for both are absolute junk.

​

Buy this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

That cable no longer gives me any reset message notifications for Midi. It's been smooth sailing ever since.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1485031398&sr=1-1&keywords=anker+usb-c+cable&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

And if you want a new wall charger;

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charge-Charger-PowerPort-PowerIQ/dp/B016LO4UTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485031273&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+powerport+1

Just get a third party USB-A to USB-C cable from a reputable brand.

I have this one from Anker and it's good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lV8CCbH7QPW50

I just searched "nexus 5x usb cable" on amazon and it was the first result. It allows me to plug my device directly to my PC, or chargers like the Nexus 6 one I mentioned.
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456937709&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=nexus+5x+usb+cable&psc=1

I have used my Anker one before to charge it.

You need usb A to usb C

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01A6F3WHG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541656222&sr=8-6&keywords=USB+a+to+usb+c


Or if you are feeling in a dongle mood

https://www.amazon.com/Acessorz-Hi-Speed-Charging-Connector-Interface/dp/B079DN8HTY/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1541656283&sr=8-20&keywords=usb+a+to+usb+c+adapter

It needs to be a USB-C cable. Just make sure you check out the Benson Leung USB-C approved chart before you buy any new ones. A lot of USB-C cables out there might cause harm to your phone.

If it helps I picked up this cable and this charger and they work great together and charge pretty fast. Nowhere near as fast as DASH but that's fine.

I'd recommend Anker for USB cables, they can be a bit pricey but IMO it's worthwhile because I've had bad experiences with cheap cables. They make USB-C to USB 3.0 cables like this one.

I've already purchased several USB-C cables and power bricks in anticipation for the Switch. Went Anker for their manufacturing quality, so it wasn't the cheapest, but the fact that it will be more common in the coming years made me feel less skittish about investing in it.

I hate the fact that my 3DS is so difficult to charge, and I just know that solving that issue will greatly improve my love for the consoles.

 


In case anyone is interested, I purchased this charger as it is 2.4 amps per port, which is close to what the Switch spec is. Essentially it is enough to charge the console in a timely fashion in a room away from the dock.
I purchased this cable since flexibility is more important when gaming plugged in versus the external protection that braiding provides.

Yes, The Nexus 5x port is USB 2.0. You can use 2.0 cables with no issues, as they should perform equally well on the 5x. I find that since USB C is also new tech, they are marketing largely to macbooks with USB 3.1 compatible USB C ports. You might not find significant price differences between 2.0 and 3.0 cables. These Anker cables are really nice, Benson Leung approved, and not super expensive, while being 3.0 cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG).

That's still micro-USB bro. And you're welcome.

Here you go- 6ft cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E9W8KYC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1495282300&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+c&dpPl=1&dpID=41k7fHZTdrL&ref=plSrch

3ft cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01A6F3WHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495282380&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+c&psc=1

Double reply so you get a notification about this.

Using an old car charger (2.4A) with a proper USB-A -> USB-C 3.0 cable (this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) charged my phone from 60% to 100% in roughly 1 hour. The phone never said "charging rapidly" either, so you're not getting Power Delivery with that. I am buying a proper USB-C car charger later this week, I can DM you with an update on that.

Edit: Adding this as well in case someone else is looking for this info, but this what I dm'd OP:

Alright so I bought this cable: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6G0CTQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this car charger https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079MWXSS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They both work great, fast charging and everything.

For what it's worth, this is also a good power bank: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079Z4RHZZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Kenwood DMX7705S with a Pixel 1 and don't have any issues. The best advice I could give would be to make sure you have a high quality USB 3 cable. There are a number of USB 3 cables out there that work fine for charging but have issues with the more data intensive operations. I am using this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and have had no issues.

Good luck!

That Game Boy Player would absolutely not work, I mean.. it would allow you to play gameboy games, but you need to have the physical game disks.

It won't allow you to play WoW or something like that.

---

If you can paint out your vision?
I don't really understand much of what you have in mind. I would likely advise against the "roof". This will make it very complicated and also pretty difficult, based on the

• GameCube front picture
  
• GameCube rear picture
  
• GameCube rear picture with mini motherboard inside
  
  ---
  
  You want to place this adapter inside it? That's possible when you use an internal USB adapter cable like that one.
  But again, space is the big issue.
  
  I looked at the BRIX as best as I could since that seems to be the best & smallest option you've got. Here is the inside of it. It's tiny, but it also got 2 small fans next to it, to keep the CPU & GPU cool under load. Without those fans, the temperatures of both the CPU and GPU will not stay in check..
  Those fans are also pretty annoyingly loud.
  
  You could perhaps find replacements for these fans, to get the noise down. It are 40x40mm fans, which Noctua also produces. These fans will be a lot more silent, but I think that they might not push enough air.. Especially because of the fact that the GameCube is not extremely well ventilated. This is something you'll have to likely test out yourself.
  This Sycthe fan is 10mm thicker but also pushes a bit more air compared to the Noctua. It also is a bit louder (on paper) compared to it because of it.
  
  Do you already have the GameCube with you? If so, it's time to pull out a venier caliper and start measuring. You really need to know everything.
  Put it on a piece of paper or excel document or something.
  
  ---
  
  You could even simply consider to use the program SketchUp. It's a free program that allows you to design whatever you want. I would recommend to at least have a look at some beginners guides so that you can do the very basic things, without going crazy.
  
  You can use this to sketch out and design this whole thing from the ground up in software, before you start to even touch the GameCube in real life. To see if it would actually fit or just to see how much space you would have. SketchUp got a lot of GameCubes in it's 3D warehouse. But they're all in different sizes and I don't think anyone is actually in the right scale.
  The closest one that's correct in terms of actual size / scale is that tiny one in the middle.

Dunno if freenas benefits from usb 3. If it does not you can get one of these for a completely internal install of your flash drive.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395548208&sr=1-1&keywords=internal+usb3+plug

If you want it to be entirely internal, buy a cable similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/

Then make sure to route it so that the dongle is outside of the metal area of the case (in the front panel if plastic, or near a glass window), to not block the radio.

Aren't bluetooth dongle really small already?

If the USB2 header on the motherboard is unused you can use this:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

But both USB2 & 3 are probably used since most cases have both ports.

Flash drives and SSD's are almost exactly the same technology. There is really very little difference in the two if you buy a quality flash drive. I use the flash memory plugin on my SSD. I'm not sure it's 100% required since most SSD's support TRIM, but it doesn't hurt anything.

If you don't want to have your flash drive hanging outside the case.. and you have an internal motherboard header.. you can get a cable to plug the flash drive right into the header.... Obviously you would probably lose an external USB port, but it would protect against someone just snatching the flash drive out of your NAS. That is always my chief concern with external flash drives for the OS. To easy for someone to be looking for a flash drive, "find" the one on your server, then when windows can't write to it, formatting it and maybe not even realize what they done (if they aren't tech savvy)

For USB 2.0
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+flash+drive+header+cable&qid=1564302415&s=gateway&sr=8-3


For USB 3.0 Headers
https://www.amazon.com/Female-Screw-Panel-Mount-Motherboard/dp/B010NBLRHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=usb+flash+drive+header+cable&qid=1564302415&s=gateway&sr=8-14

That is a great idea! Never thought of that. Is this what you are referring to? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_IE8pub177ZKM8

You mean something like this?

Here's the Google search I used.

Yes! As long as the BIOS will support booting from USB. Some older machines might not.

You could maybe use an adapter to put a thumb drive inside the case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S

Heck, it might also have an IDE controller, so you could run the OS off IDE and storage off SATA.

The world is your oyster: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

​

Damage it? How? Is it a lan rig?

Also are you more concerned about how the case looks from behind than the cable mess that will be added inside the case?

Anyway it's your decision, you can get something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493676184&sr=8-2&keywords=internal+usb+header

If you have extra USB headers on your motherboard I would get a USB port internally instead of using Molex. This will allow you to power and program the Arduino/LED strip. Something like this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_S7FMAb43HCRV7

So I see you're using that usb dongle for your internet. I feel ya, I've got one too, and it's not only unsightly but annoying to lug around when moving. I have yet to purchase this but I feel it'd be nice to have so I can hide the dongle in my case. It also helps because it frees up more usb space on your front I/O. just a thought I'v been having lately about my setup.

Why go to all that trouble when you buy an adapter for like $4?

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

> -First question involves booting it and running off a flash drive. While this feels like salvation in a lot of ways in contrast to dedicating a boot drive, my concerns are this: How would I go about 'booting' the USB drive from internally in the system? This would come from avoiding a physical environment of tampering/nudging/whatever? I understand after the initial boot, writes to the flash happens only through configuring, but it seems odd to me that a critical piece of the setup is outwardly accessible to whomever in a non-lockdown interface like a USB port.

Some motherboards, especially with server motherboards will have an onboard USB port. Mine has one and that is where one of my two boot USBs is.

Another option you can do is a SATADOM, although you lose a SATA port to this, but depending on your environment may be worth it.

Third option if you want would be to take the USB header on the motherboard that you would usually plug the front panel USB ports to and get something like this to connect to it and then leave the output inside the case: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

As explained elsewhere in the thread, USB ports do have a bandwidth limit - you can't just use hubs to run an infinite number of devices simultaneously off a single port. Think of how much video data needs to flow through that single cable at the base of the Christmas tree every second...

Anyway, in response to your edit: yes, running a cable from the motherboard header may indeed help. You need more actual USB host controllers, not just more sockets, and the unused headers on your motherboard may provide that. No point installing additional USB controllers on a PCIe slot if you aren't making full use of the controllers on the motherboard.

Now, I don't know the internal configuration of your motherboard; there might be whole controllers you aren't using and there might just be an on-board hub. lsusb -t can help with that, as it will show you if there are any totally empty buses.

In case you didn't know, the header on the motherboard will use a different type of connector, and you'll need an adaptor a bit like this, or this if you want to make it neat. I'm not necessarily recommending those specific products, just showing you what they should look like. Note the different styles of header connector for USB2 and USB3.

Each header should support two USB ports without using any hubs, so with your motherboard you can gain six extra ports beyond those on the rear IO panel.

However, is there any chance of you telling us what you are ultimately trying to achieve here? I'm getting the feeling there might be an easier way...

Here are the amazon.ca links. The LED strip is a bit different but it is almost the same. You can control the colors on the litle dongle connected to it. As for USB power to the LEDS, there should be an option in your motherboard's BIOS to turn of USB power when you shutdown. Most motherboards today have that option.

http://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-USBMBADAPT-6-Inch-Female-Motherboard/dp/B000IV6S9S

http://www.amazon.ca/Lemonbest-120leds-Flexible-Changing-Waterproof/dp/B015R44RZC

You could use something like this. I haven't heard of USB to SATA and even if there was you'd be limited by your flash drives transfer speeds.

EDIT: Oops, didn't see the laptop comment. The thing I posted won't work :/

well if you have an open USB 2.0 header, you can use one of these to make an internal port.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

If you don't have an open header, then you could add an internal USB port with a PCI or PCIe card.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815124047&cm_re=pci_usb_header-_-15-124-047-_-Product

Transcend and PNY used to make them, called Internal USB Flash Module. Model fro the transcend was UFM-H. They are really too small to use these days, and expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Low-Profile-Drive-SDCZ33-032G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8
plus
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

Is a cheaper, better replacement (specifically, those cruzer fits are known to be very good.)

Might be too late for this, but I use the pictured controller dongle.

I recently bought one of these internal USB port adapters to connect it inside my case, and stuck it to the inside wall with velcro. Since my controller is already connected to it, theres no issues with is losing sync or anything. I might change my tune if I begin to have disconnection issues, but for now it seems like a good solution.

EDIT: The point being because of its size I'm always worried I'll accidentally snap it by brushing past my pc or something. With it secured inside the PC, that can't happen.

I use one of these.

Setup is Japanese though, so here's a translation.

Edit: I should mention there's a noticeable delay, maybe 1/3 of a second on the capture. So I wouldn't recommend playing off the capture alone. You'd need to split it to a display.

I tried that exact setup with the same equipment. I only tested it with Melee but the results were not good. Older 3D games do not upscale well. I honestly regret not going with the elgato HD for PM streaming, it can't do 1080p60fps but it can do composite/svideo/component connections. Save your money or buy a gv-usb2 for svideo capturing.

My recommendation would be to throw down a bit of money and get a good usb capture card, some RCA Splitters, extra cables and a TV or Monitor that has inputs. Total cost should be around $50 on Amazon before the TV/Monitor. The analog signal only degrades slightly (can barely tell on a CRT or stream) and is super easy to set up. There are cheaper options out there but I wouldn't recommend using them - a few of the USB capture cards I have seen that are cheaper than the GV-USB2 don't have drives that work passed windows 7, and even on Win7 they are super janky to get working. The GV-USB2 has a bit of lag when going into OBS so I wouldn't recommend playing straight off of it, hence the splitters. An alternative capture card would be a Dazzle, but I have heard multiple people having issues with audio on those, your mileage may vary regardless of which option you go for.

There are also more expensive options such as getting an internal card but you will probably be stuck with having to get one for digital or one for analog at an increased price.

Okay you basically have two good options on that budget. You can get a GV-USB2 for about $30 and have a really easy setup with your wii (plug the S video in to the capture card and the yellow cable in to the TV, split the audio, and you're done), or you can get a black magic intensity shuttle which allows you to capture 480p video and will get you way better capture quality and is a little more complicated to set up.

Composite capture card example

BMI Shuttle example

This stuff is complicated so feel free to ask me more questions.

It'd probably be cheaper to just buy a capture card and play it off Amarec on your computer, if you don't have a TV. Then you'll have a larger screen to play on!

GameCubes are like $25, cables should be $5 each, controllers are $20. A good first party memory card is like $10.

This is the capture card I use. If you do this I'd suggest an s-video cable because the picture quality is worth it.

I'm going through some old family tapes myself and though I would share what I'm doing.
I'm totally not sure this is the best way to do it, because there seems to always be a better way to squeeze more quality out of it the more I look, but what I did is use a capture card like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539027006&sr=8-1&keywords=i-o+data+usb+connection+video+capture+gv-usb2

Some people buy really good old VCRs with time based correction, but that is just out of my league at the moment, in both money and effort, and I'm happy with the quality I have so far.

I personally capture it using virtualdub with the lagorith lossless codec, though I think there are better ones out there that require more processing power. The files still tend to be quite huge though as raw files tend to be I think. I then use Staxrip to finish it up by trimming it up and applying QTGMC, which is supposedly a very high quality deinterlacer that bumps it up to 59.98 fps, and it denoises the video fairly well too. At the end of this process I have a decent MP4 that I can watch and relive some memories.

At the end of the day though, there is only so much you can do with VHS, and this is just the culmination of me spending way too much time scouring the internet for ways to preserve VHS footage. Its probably not the best way to do it, as I'm continuously finding posts that say one way is better, some its evidence based, some of its subjective. Its a huge headache, depending on how far you want to jump down the rabbit hole, but I hope this helps you if you just want to see how some else has done it. If anybody has any questions, or has found a better and simpler way of doing it let me know though! Still learning. This video got me started

GV-USB2 is a really solid little device for how cheap it is. Just pair it with the Monoprice Wii S-Video Cable and you'll be good to go. You can plug the S-video end into the capture card and the composite video into the TV. solid capture setup for only ~$40

EDIT - you should also get some RCA piggy back cables so you can run the audio to both the capture card and the tv

I recorded it straight from the N64 with an I-O Data GV USB2 capture device. I'm glad you liked the video. :D

This is the one I use, but any av to usb would work.

You do need one splitter at least for the video to go to both the crt and the capture card. You can just have the sound from the TV (that's what I have on my stream) or you can do another splitter like in the drawing above.

To add to the other two suggestions, I'll add what I believe are two far better solutions: The GV-USB2 and USB3HDCAP

The GV-USB2 is a USB dongle-style capture card that only captures composite/RCA video and S-video, which is the best you'll get from the Gamecube without expensive cables. It's about $35 USD.

The Startech USB3HDCAP is more expensive, but it will capture HDMI for newer consoles and PCs, as well as composite, S-Video, Component (the best video signal out of a Wii and easy to get cables for), and even RGB. It's probably the best quality card there is at its price and it's offered me a far better user experience than Elgato's devices have for me. I also know PJ DiCesare uses it for his runs and he has excellent capture quality. It's currently on sale for $182.

Importantly, both will capture video at 60fps which I'm not convinced the standard def EZcap will do, and without the added noise and delay I find Elgato devices tend to add.

Hopefully this helps.

A great way to do it would to be to use an old capture device like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IpABCb992NSQJ

It has essentially no lag so you could play it in your streaming software, but if you really wanna get down and dirty with some old games, you could get a video splitter along with that and plug it into an old monitor, haha, but I imagine you won't be going pro neccicarily with a cheap sponegbob plug and play game - that being said, that's a rad niche you've got there, sounds like it'd be a really fun time!

Buy a gv-usb2 , #1 recommended capture device for N64 speedrunners( also great for converting VCR, great for SNES, havnt tried GC yet with it, but others say its good for it too), only problem, all in Japanese. But there are plenty of English tutorials and installation is simple. You can capture directly in OBS or use the included software capture window. Hope that helps.

As a recent owner of an easycap I couldn't recommend against it enough. Mine was a pain to setup and the quality went from bad to really glitchy and awful in the span of a day. I think the dazzle is supposed to be okay, and I know that Cosmowright uses this for his sd capture.
[edit]
I think that the dazzle and that both do 60fps capture while the easycap does not

This is what you want

Guide

Just grab an io-data GV-USB2, it's decent and has S-Video in. Good cheap option for streaming, and the quality is good enough if you're doing 720p and below. Since you said you're not taking streaming seriously yet, I don't see why you would spend more than $35: http://amzn.to/2jmInxC - combine that with a component splitter/amplifier and a component-to-SVideo converter, and you're golden.

Since your gameplay will be on a CRT, you won't have to worry about input lag for the stream.

There's also this for $50 that does component video, but I can't personally vouch for it because I'm just an SVideo pleb. https://express.google.com/product/9513734564785364365_6855387360727611182_6136318?mall=Rockies2&directCheckout=1&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=product_ads&utm_campaign=gsx&dclid=CMr968SWu9cCFdINgQodJ0oAaQ

You could also use a USB Y cable. That way it draws power from the second USB port as well. Just make sure it is the right one that will fit the port on your hard drive.

I bought this drive along with a USB Y Cable to power it properly. It would not work with the single USB that came with it....not enough power, the Y cable fixed that.

Couldn't find information on Nintendo's site, but after reading your description, I'm guessing it's something like this for the mentioned drive?

Non referral link.

Hey, looked into the product you linked to, but I have a quick question.

The one you linked has a microUSB (which I would have to stick into the hard drive). Thing is, my hard drive doesn't have a microUSB, it has an extended version, like the one here:
http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-dual-Micro-B-Cable-Black/dp/B005M0ICG2/ref=pd_cp_e_1#customerReviews

So the one I found LOOKs like a better choice, except that this one needs two USB 3 when I only have 2.0. Would it still get enough juice from my laptop?

Given you showed what model you bought that isn't the right cable due to being a fat usb port and not a y-cable port.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-B-External-Seagate-Toshiba-Hitachi/dp/B005M0ICG2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537650486&sr=1-1&keywords=y+cable+usb

This is the correct one.

You need a USB Y cable, something like this www.amazon.com/eForCity-dual-Micro-B-Cable-Black/dp/B005M0ICG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419514397&sr=8-1&keywords=usb3+y+cable

Sounds like the drive isn't always getting enough power (USB 2 power < USB 3 power) - because compatibility issues between the 2 basically shouldn't happen unless the device has extra drivers it needs.

I haven't read you mention the size of the passport, but I see this regularly with any external drive over 1TB.

Sometimes, the issue is the USB cable itself, not passing on the power as efficiently as before. Often the drive will still seem to start up and spin, but simply doesn't get all the juice it needs to "boot up" all the way.

When a drive isn't getting enough power, a common occurrence is a soft clicking sound because the plates' headers keep alternating between "Read mode" and "idle mode".

Possible solutions:

• Replace the USB cable. If you only have "cheap ones", try buying a higher quality name brand cable. This might give the drive enough power over USB 2
  
  
• Ezramore made a good suggestion with the USB Y cable, which lets you plug in 2 USB's into the computer for some extra power. I would not suggest trying to make one yourself, you'll easily run into the same "lack of power" issue (unless you're just really good with wiring)
  
  
• It could be the contacts of the enclosure not passing the power through properly (when it's on an underpowered USB 2 port) - You could consider removing the bare drive from the passport enclosure and installing it into an empty enclosure. At this point you could also consider getting an enclosure with its own PSU since it might be the drive itself trying to pull too much power

Spinning all the time? Not a problem. Constantly starting up/hibernating? That could definitely be a problem.

The problem you may be thinking of was with older spec USB (usually on ports on the front of a PC case) and older more power-hungry 2.5" drives.

Older 2.5" external drives would come with a USB "Y" cable which would plug into 2 ports on the host machine - one to provide power and the other for power & data transfer.

Older (USB 2.0 and before) ports had a max amperage of 500mA (and some provided even less than this). USB 3.0 specs call for 900mA @ 5V which should be enough juice to power an external hard drive.

This article on a HGST Travelstar (which, incidentally, is probably the same drive OP's using) shows some important specs:

>Power requirements:
Startup (peak, max) 5.5W
Read/Write (avg) 1.8W
Low Power Idle 1.0W
Performance Idle 1.7W

So we know the power requirements of the drive. How about the USB ports? We know the USB 3.0 specs (from above: 0.9A @ 5V), so some high school calculations using I(current, amps) = P(power, watts) / V(voltage) rearranged to P=IV gives us 4.5W.

Which is more than enough to power an external 2.5" drive while spinning. For Peak power draw it's a watt less, but should be fine once started. The motherboard/port can handle that briefly.

Making it even less likely that there's not enough juice for the drive is that I don't have the issue, yet I'm using a functionally identical setup by having a HGST Touro S plugged into my Xbox One with no problems at all. That's the same drive as well.

tl;dr: it's not the ports or the drive (unless they're faulty). Could be the enclosure. Can try a USB Y cable to check, I guess...

*Edit: Added a word and caveat for faulty port/drive.

I use

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CI3BLPA/ref=cm_sw_r_fa_awdm_uvIxwb8NV3SGQ

and I got a Y cable so that the power draw isn't a issue.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005M0ICG2/ref=cm_sw_r_fa_awdm_zwIxwbVZJQE8M

It's small and I love that I got this thing to death. Being able to just download a game when I want it and not worry about space has been great.

I just bought these three items to expand my Wii U storage. It works great! Load times are marginally faster in Smash
Internal memory 37.7sec load time
SSD 35.6sec load time

External drive enclosure

SSD

USB Y-cable

To be honest, just about any external hard drive you get should be fine. The price difference between a 1TB and a 2TB is so small that it shouldn't be a factor.

I got one of the WD Passports and it works great. It doesn't use external power, just a USB 3.0 cable, but I got a USB Y-adaptor from Amazon and haven't had any issues.

The active extender I have does not require a wall wart at all, they use the USB power on the cable to basically add another hub to regen power on the line back. Some do have the option to plug in a wall wart, but the one I have and many I see on Amazon do not need a wall wart at all.


This one says it does not need the power adapter unless you are connecting multiple of these cables together I guess, and your PC supplies enough power to the extender its self.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484412332&sr=8-1&keywords=active%2Busb%2Bextender&th=1

I lot of the ones over 20' seem to be USB 2.0 which should still work. It may be best to have the wall wart so you know the camera is getting good power though, maybe get one that allows you to connect the wall wart optionally and see how it does without it?

I currently am using a 16' USB 3.0 cable that seemed to power my camera fine.

Things to do while your waiting.

• Clear a space
  
• Figure out light house mounting
  
• Get floor mats for your designated space that you can map to the VR playspace
  
• Verify you have an open HDMI or Display Port for your Vive, as well as an open port available for your secondary display
  
   
  
  Keep in mind, you'll want at least a foot around your playspace with no obstructions. It really breaks the immersion when you reach out and hit the wall!
  
   
  
  If the 15 foot cables that come with it are not going to be enough, start planning for your extension now.
  You'll need an additional USB extender cable, and an additional HDMI or Display Port to Mini Display Port cable of the same length to extend the vive connection from your PC to your breakout box.
  
  This is how I successfully extended my vive 15 feet.
  
   
  
  Extension Kit:
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7RM2TG/ref=twister_B00HG1N6OS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467058952&sr=8-2&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+Active+Extension
  
   
  
  Play space (9 Packs of these work out to 9.6 X 13.6 , pretty darn close to the perfect max playspace for the vive):
  
  http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/red-and-black-connect-a-mat-4-pack/6000016933486
  
   
  
  Good luck, and be prepared ... because you wont want o be missing out for any longer than you already have :)
  

You can use an active usb 3.0 extension cable for longer distances.

Edit: By active, i don't mean an ethernet conversion. I mean something like this

Both of these work

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

There was a thread here exactly the same as this one today and I replied there that I tested one of those cables with no issues on my PC when my amazon basics one didnt work at all. Here you go 12 hours ago someone posted exactly the same thing you did =P https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7ulmch/functional_usb_extension_cable/

This is the cable I used. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK

Seems it varies by PC though as it worked fine in my USB 3.1 port and the amazon basics would just connect and disconnect constantly but never allow the headset to work. Gave one of the long -120342834034etc errors.

If you have the room/ability, I'd mount the sensors on the ceiling or corners of the room. I got two (VideoSecu 2 Pack 2-6 inch Metal Wall Ceiling Mounts Adjustable Pan Tilt Video Camera Mounting Brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bYfm6J1rX8VQH) to mount them cheaply and securely, and three (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_z9Cm45OtYiwYz). Purchasing a third sensor nets you a USB extension cable, and I also got an HDMI extension cable to give my Rift some extra room. Sorry for all the links! The ceiling setup gives me pretty flawless tracking.

I dual boot Ubuntu 18.04 with Windows 10 and have an Oculus Rift.

I really just use Windows for gaming, and it takes make a minute to get over there. I mean, to me it's not a huge hassle.

If I were you, if it's not too out of the ordinary for you to ask, ask his thoughts on dual booting and using a Windows 10 for gaming. If he says it's not a bad idea, and he REALLY wants the headset, I would highly suggest getting it. Worse comes to worst, if he doesn't want it before he opens it, you can simply refund it and get another gift.

I recommend getting the rift with a third sensor, as well as an HDMI extender and USB 3 Active cable. It'll run up your costs to about $530-$550 after tax, but the third sensor is essential if you want the tracking to work well.

Edit: This is the active cable I got that I have not tested yet. I will return with a response, just remind me if I don't have it up by tomorrow afternoon.

And this HDMI female to female looks good paired with this HDMI cable.

If you have any other questions just let me know. I'll try to help out best I can.

I grabbed the 5m one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title&th=1


I did the 10 ft from one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Ultra-Extension-Ethernet-Supports/dp/B0069A75JE/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title





I would NOT get anything longer.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK

i use these on my rift to have my desktop in the office and rift in my garage. as for DP, no clue. i use

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS for the hdmi, i imagine something similar would work for rift s

I bought 6ft extensions for the headset on recommendation from the Oculus Wiki here on reddit, I also have a GTX 1080, so far so good.

USB 3.0 6ft extension

[HDMI 6ft extension]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC)

I then used twisty ties to bind the new extension cables together so I don't trip over them.

EDIT: I also bought a 16.4ft USB 3.0 extension for one of my sensors, which also works great (plugged into USB 2.0). Worth noting, this sensor is also extended using the included usb extension that came with the Oculus Rift/touch controller boxes. So it has 2 extensions on it and it still works.

EDIT 2: Fixed the HDMI link

I generally like Anker. Just don't be disappointed if it doesn't charge at maximum speed at longer lengths, the pixies get too tired.

Anker

Assuming you have a phone with a USB-C port (unlike OP), the answer is... probably.

Make sure you find a quality, thick cable. I bought a well reviewed Spigen one that worked great, but it was only 1m. You'll have to look more carefully for a longer cable, since the increase in length leads to an increase in amperage resistance, which results in slower charging.

That's why phones usually come with shorter cables in the box.

Edit: This one looks like it'd work great, seems to put out the maximum 2.4a that USB A is capable of.

looks like that aukey product is unfortunately filled with fake BS reviews: http://fakespot.com/product/aukey-usb-c-to-usb-a-cable-with-usb-30-durable-nylon-5-pack-33ft366ft11ft1-for-apple-macbook-12-chromebook-pixel-and-more

I would return it for a refund if you can. I just got an anker usb-c to usb 3.0 cable and its working great so far: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01E9W8KYC

or if you want a really heavy duty one: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Durability-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01LNAAEJ2

I don't know what Anker cable you're using but the one I'm using for my s8 (also Anker) clicks in. I just did a check right now to see if it did or didn't and it does.

USB Type C Cable, Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (6ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy S8, S8+, MacBook, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, LG V20 G5, HTC 10 and more https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fowGzb94W28H0

I am able to use a 6 ft cable, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_EU10DbBJDFV5D and a 10 ft extension, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019DZ7U2S/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_9X10DbG5VWR1E.

I have a main gaming rig and a secondary one in my workout room. The front usb3 ports worked on neither. On my main rig-- i7-9700, 1080ti, Aorus z390 mb, I used the 3.1 usb. The jr gaming rig-- r5 3600, 1070, MSI b450i, I had to use the 3.1 usb marked VR ready.

I assume you're referring to the USB Type-C connector. I can imagine that if your last phone was a few years old that this is new, but it's been around for quite a while. There are tons of places online to order these cables from.

I always recommend Anker branded cables, they have been giving me the most consistent and high quality experience for a while now.

I order them from Amazon, and they come in different lengths. You said you'd like a longer cable, so here are the 6 ft cables and 10 ft cables (respectively) that I myself use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E9W8KYC/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1518313196&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+c+cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MZIPYPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518313196&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+c+cable&psc=1

Hopefully this helps, if you have any questions I'd be glad to answer them.

piggy-backing off this: i've been looking for a long type A to type C cable that supports 3.0 speeds and quick charging. the closest thing i found is this Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable but it clearly indicates it doesn't support full speed charge for nexus 5x/6p. Is there one that does? If so, please let me know!

I've had mixed results using other cables than what came with the HD60s some worked others didn't. I think the ones that come with some devices to be used to charge them aren't compatible because they cheeped out and made a cable to could handle the power but not the data. This should work though since it says it's USB 3.1 not just 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYR2O

You're looking for an USB3 type C (the symmetrical, rounded connector) to type A (the old rectangular connector with blue on the inside).

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYR2O/

edit: Corrected link

I have had good luck so far with the AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters). At the same time I updated to the April 1st 2019 security update. Since both of those Auto has been rock solid. Before that I'd get several disconnects to the point of getting a similar USB device error, even on short drives.

I still have to unlock the phone to get Auto started, unlike all the other phones in my household that connect automatically even when locked.

My HU is a Sony XAV-AX100.

Here: https://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/mobile-accessories/phones/fast-charge-travel-charger-with-usb-c-cable--black-ep-ta20jbeugus/

This one works well also: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYR2O?th=1

In doing more research and making threads in VW specific forums, I've picked up this cable to try to see if it solves the issue. So often with AA, problems are caused by the cable you're using. This one is the most recent and advanced spec "USB 3.1 Gen 2" which is 10gb/s where Gen 1 was 5gb/s. I'm hoping this does it, since one symptom I did see was slowness. I've got a bit of a road trip this weekend, so I'll see if it works out.

I also read someone say that if your AA freezes up like that again, instead of turning off your car to do a full reboot, you can hold down the power button/volume knob until the infotainment system does a hard shutdown/reboot. Haven't needed to try that yet. I don't really drive during the week.

For anyone who might be in the same boat I purchased this dock which came with a USB C to C cable:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01FKTZLBS/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then I purchased this USB A to C cable to connect my Lenovo to the dock:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01GGKYR2O/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This setup works perfectly for both my thinkpad and my chromebook.

I have this cable and it works fine for sideloading and stuff. It's a little short though.

Price History

• USB C Wall Charger, Anker 30W 2 Port Compact Type   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 46 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
  
• Anker PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability,   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 444 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
  
• USB C Charger [GaN Technology], Anker 30W Ultra Compact Type-C   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.4/5 from 83 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
  
• USB C Car Charger, Anker 42W PowerDrive Speed+ Duo, 2   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 31 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
  
  _
  These savings aren't just Black and White.
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2FNintendoSwitchDeals%2Fcomments%2Fbmant1%2Famazonusa_anker_usbc_chargersale%2Femv5qg5%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

I would recommend Anker and Aukey from my experience

Anker PowerCore Speed 20000 PD, 20100mAh Portable Charger & 30W Power Delivery Wall Charger Bundle, Type C Power Bank for MacBook Air/iPad Pro 2018, Nexus 5X / 6P, iPhone 8 / X, MacBooks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WNWRNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jiBvCb70DSB57

Anker Powerline+ C to C 2.0 Cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy Note 8 S8 S8+ S9, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, Huawei Matebook, MacBook, iPad Pro 2018 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jjBvCb2ZYH31Z

I went Anker and purchased this cable with
this charger

30W does not work at all for me, I had an Anker battery with that output and my RBS would not recognize it. Go with the 45W. Here's what I use:

45W PowerBank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NXR2T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB C Charge Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LNA0XCU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(not affiliate links or anything, I have nothing to gain from you using my links vs another)

Anker USB 3.0/USB-C (10ft.): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-x34yb0H4BT1S

I have heard good things about this 10ft Anker cable:


https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01MZIPYPY

well. i can safely say this has made the CV1 obsolete for me. it will be relegated to the "backup" role incase i accidentally break my quest. had absolutely no issues whatsoever for a good hr of play. using a 12ft usb 3.0 extender and a 10 foot type usb 3.0 A-C cable for a total cable length of 22ft connected directly to my Asus Prime X570-p motherboard's usb 3.2 port. my 1080ti is pretty solid so far :D

​

For those curious these are the exact cables i'm using:-extender:- https://www.amazon.com/Insignia-USB-Charge-Cable-NS-MCAB10/dp/B01MYZDG3T

A-C cable:- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Full Rig:-

Ryzen 3900X

32 Gb Gskil Trident-z rgb ram

GTX 1080Ti

Asus Prime X570-p motherboard.

Running on Razer Blade 2016 with a GTX 1060

Using recommended Anker cable from Oculus: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MZIPYPY/

Able to run Steam VR and Beat Saber smoothly. It does crash from time to time. But this is so much better than streaming through wifi using RiftCat. So I'm all for it

Thank you for bringing this up: this is exactly what I want to know, as I have found no actual reports in either of the official threads (here is the latest one as of now). Somebody reported terrible performance on a Macbook with Bootcamp and external GPU (AMD Radeon RX580 in a Black Magic box).

I will test this soon on an RTX 2070 Gigabyte Aorus Gaming Box connected to my Yoga 720-15 via a 2-lane Thunderbolt 3 port, which means there is as much bottlenecking as possible.

My cheap cable will be delivered today. If it works, I will try both the USB 3 port on my laptop, and my USB-C Virtual Link port on the eGPU itself. I will also try the officially endorsed Anker cable if this one does not work. I will post my tests here with the VR Mark if the setup works at all.

​

*UPDATE*

So I've tested Link with an eGPU (external graphics card / dock). It eventually worked for me. Here are the specs:

• Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Aorus Gaming Box connected to a Lenovo Yoga 720-15 laptop via a 2-lane Thunderbolt 3 port with Windows 10. eGPU firmware is the latest one as of Nov 2019 with the TB bandwidth and fan spin fix.
  
• Oculus Quest was connected to the PC via AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-A 3.1 Gen 1 Charger Cable | 10 feet. It worked. Will test the recommended Anker cable today as well. My guess is that it will work too.
  
• The following adapter was used to test the Virtual Link port on the GPU: AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black. It also worked.
  
  Here are my observations:
  
  

1. Both the onboard USB 3.1 Gen 1 port (left side) and the Virtual Link port on the external GPU (the one that's a USB-C port found on most RTX GPU's) worked fine, and showed very similar performance.
   
2. Oculus software should not run the beta version, and Oculus Quest should not have Developer mode on.
   
3. Performance is OK, but is obviously considerably lower (at least by 20 to 40%) than had the Quest been connected to a conventional desktop PC with the same specs. Without the headset on the same eGPU setup, VR Mark Orange Room scores about 6000 points. With the headset on and running the test in Oculus virtual desktop (not natively on the HMD displays, though) shows the lowest of 4700 points. Onboard GTX 1050 2GB without the headset would show about 2500 points. My Yoga 15 is downvolted a bit with TB kept on.
   
4. Image definitely looks more blurry than I'd want, but I will keep fiddling with Oculus/SteamVR settings. I have also noticed timewarp artifacts on some objects over the edges when turning my head very fast, but those are sometimes there, and sometimes are not. Not sure what's the main cause yet.
   
5. You probably do not want to have anything connected to the same USB 3 hub or controller as the one that you have you Quest connected to when you initially connect it to the PC. When I had peripherals connected to the same Corsair ST100 Headphones Stand, Quest would had kept showing a red "x" until I would disconnect the other devices first. When I reconnected those while using the headset, everything was working fine, though; that is until I re-connected the Quest again. Other stuff had to be disconnected first from that hub again then.
   
6. Performance was 5-10% lower than when running VR Mark Orange Room via the Oculus Virtual desktop than when just running it on an internal display.
   
7. Performance seems to be the same when running Link with either an external monitor connected to the eGPU or with an internal monitor of the laptop itself.
   
8. The following cable DID NOT WORK: TOPWE USB Type C Cable USB C Cable (2 Pack 10FT) Type C Charger USB 3.0 Date Sync 3A Fast Charging Cable. DO NOT BUY THIS CABLE to use with the Quest, unless otherwise confirmed for your setup.
   
   Conclusion:
   
   I knew what I was getting into, but using a Rift S with such setup instead of the Quest/Link is preferred due to TB3 limitations when feeding the signal back to the PC. Ideally, you would not use Oculus Quest or even a Rift S with an eGPU setup, but this is the setup I have, so here we are: it is confirmed to be working on a Windows machine and an RTX 2070 eGPU, as long as you have proper USB 3 ports. This depends on your laptop, though, hence Virtual Link port can save the day for some people.

Apparently Oculus has recommended this specific cable for press to use. Got one on the way now. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&linkCode=sl1&tag=arstech20-20&linkId=ceba6f498af823d1604dc6f2e88d4c1b&language=en_US

I would suggest the cable that was directly recommended by Oculus (at least according to the UploadVR article referenced in Reddit's "Oculus Link Megathread")...
The original amazon.com link from the article - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-MacBook/dp/B01MZIPYPY/
For those in Germany/anywhere else that uses amazon.de - https://www.amazon.de/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-MacBook/dp/B01MZIPYPY/
And just for good measure, here's the same link for amazon.co.uk - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-MacBook/dp/B01MZIPYPY/

I'm hoping to use this cable and this extender. I dont think the 15ft the official cable will come with will be long enough for sufficient freedom of movement.

Wow, that's crazy. I wasn't going to link the cable (someone asked me to in another comment) but after this I'm starting to think it might be a good idea.

This is the one I bought: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In anticipation for the Link beta launch, what software should we download if any, Oculus Rift S ? Or will there be a separate Link software from Oculus's website that we'll have to download in order to use Oculus Link? Also, to confirm, we should be able to purchase any Rift S supported game from Steam, e.g. Asgard's Wrath, etc. and then be able to run it via Link when it's released correct? Also if anyone is sidequesting Asgards Wrath how's the quality? Also to help anyone I could never get Windows 10 to show the Oculus Quest on PC until I purchased a high quality cable that is recommended for using Link, see link below, after trying everything. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would like to share my experience with Link.

My motherboard has a both USB 3.1 gen 1 and USB 3.1 gen 2 port. I've tested Link with Anker PowerLine USB-A to USB-C (3m, 3.1 gen 2) that Oculus recommended and the CableCreation Active USB-A extension cable (5m,male to female USB-A).

When I tried Link with the Anker cable alone plugged into USB 3.1 gen 2 port, it worked well.

However when I used the CableCreation + Anker combo plugged into USB 3.1 gen 2 port, audio did not work properly.

Then I tried the above combo plugged into USB3.1 gen 1 port, they worked properly without problem.

Anker Powerline (Amazon JP), CableCreation Active Extension Cable (Amazon JP)

My PC:

MSI X470 Gaming Pro

Ryzen 7 3700X

nVidia Geforce RTX 2080

(I've filled in the survey.)

The only one that's really officially supported is this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap and works with some 10' extension cables including this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This gives you 20 feet. Done deal

Prova questo. Un po’ spesso e rigido ma funziona alla grande in attesa di quello ufficiale.

Try this. A little too thick and rigid, but it perfectly works while I wait for official one.

AmazonBasics - Cavo da USB C a USB 3.1 gen 1, in nylon a doppio intreccio | 3 m, Grigio scuro https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07D7NNJ61/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-yL2DbC31X68B

For the cable, I've be using this one from Amazon with great results https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7NNJ61?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
From what I've seen, you mostly just need to make sure it's usb3.

If you're in the uk the below cable works for me

It's 3m long and comes with a cable strap you can use to attach to the arm of you headset to get the cable out the way

Amazon Basics USB 3.1 A-C cable

AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D7NNJ61?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This one, right?

I'm using this and it works: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Double-Braided-Nylon-Type-C/dp/B07D7NNJ61/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=AmazonBasics+Double+Braided+Nylon+USB+Type-C+to+Type-A&qid=1574104991&s=computers&sr=1-4

I think I have the same cable bought from Amazon US.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can confirm it works, plugged into a Inateck usb card.

One word of warning, this is a VERY thick USB cable.

I have used both of these and they work fine.

6 foot https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5GMZ6X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10 foot https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or just get one of these, and you can use it for both Side Quest and Oculus Link (if you have a compatible PC). https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61/ (AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-A 3.1 Gen 1 Cable | 3 m)

Which cable are you looking for? If it's the one on the right, it's USB-B. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485845287&sr=8-3&keywords=USB+B+cable

PC->modi is USB A->B, modi->magni is RCA

The katana has a usb type b port on it. To connect to a computer you'll need a cable like this

If you don't mind a UK Amazon link, this would be fine: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK

Yeah you can only use it on a computer. The main thing you need is a midi cable. Most digital pianos should have a midi port somewhere. You can use a printer cable like this. You just plug it from your piano into your PC. There's a demo for Synthesia but most of the important features are locked, like automatic pausing when you make a mistake. So you can either pay for the full version or download it through other means. All you really need is a midi cable and the software, just as long as your piano actually has a midi port.

I think you can just use a regular old usb cable
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK

This is the one I've been using since freshman year:

https://www.amazon.com/Brother-HL-L2300D-Monochrome-Printer-Printing/dp/B00NQ1CLTI/

It's currently going for $95, which is actually a lot more expensive than usual. I think it usually goes for like $60-$70, so maybe wait a bit and see if it comes back down.

It is only black-and-white, but it does have automatic duplex (double-sided-printing), so it's very convenient for printing out essays and readings and stuff.

It's been very reliable, and if you buy the off-brand toner cartridges (these are the ones I get), it's pretty cheap as well.

EDIT: One thing to note that caught me off guard when I bought it- It doesn't come with a USB cable, so maybe pick up one of those as well if you don't have one laying around.

The HP-A4's RCA plugs are for sending music out to speakers, not for sending your music into the amp. For android phones, you'll need a USB-B 2.0 to USB-A cable and a USB-A to USB-C adapter assuming you're using a phone with USB-C like Samsung S8, or Note8, or a USB-A to Micro-USB adapter if you're using a older/cheaper android phone like Samsung S7, J3, etc.

USB-B to USB-A cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK

USB-A to USB-C Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

USB-A to Micro USB Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LN3LQKQ/

Also perfect: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1541133504&sr=8-13&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+cable

I only included the braille in case you or anyone else that reads it later needs it, or maybe wants to print out to have next to their piano so they don't need to keep coming back to reddit for it. I tried to think of everything to help. I'm not blind, but I can only imagine how frustrating it must be to not have owners manuals in a form you can read being blind. I actually looked to see if they had a version for visually impaired. Sadly, they did not. This shows an obvious need in our world that we do not have.

​

Yamaha's Smart Pianist app for iOS allows you to control the functions of your P-125 with your iOS device (requires Apple Lightning to USB Camera Adapter and USB cable). The USB cable will be USB-A to USB-B ends.

Facing the back of the piano you have from left to right, USB to Host, Sustain pedal, Pedal Unit, Aux jack right, aux jack left and balanced, finally the power.

​

I hope this helps and was exactly the answers you were seeking. Good luck on your journey learning piano.

You don't have to buy expensive cables, or necessarily from Schiit. If you get a Modi2 and Magni2, you'll need a USB cable with an A type connector on one end and a B connector on the other to go from the Modi2 to the computer. Like this.

To connect the Modi2 to the Magni2, you'll need basic RCA cables. Something like this will do.

The ones I've linked are just examples. But there really isn't a need to go overboard on cables.

I had a similar problem. Furthermore in my case it would take me up to 2 hours to get serato to connect to my controller. I got an Amazon basic cable and it works wonderfully. Here is a link to the one I got.

So first, to connect your DAC to your computer, you'll need a usb A to B cable like this one. Most printers come with one of these, so you may have on laying around that you're not using. Plug the A (regular USB) end into your laptop, and the B (the square one) into the USB input on the DAC.

Next, you'll need two RCA splitters like this, one for the left channel, and one for the right. Plug one into each of the outputs on the DAC (male end into dac, 2 female ends hanging free).

To connect the subwoofer, you just need a regular RCA cable like this. Just run one side of the cable from one of the ouptuts of the spitter connected to the left channel on the DAC to the left input of the sub, and the same for the right (after this, you should have one output used on each of the two splitters).

Finally, to connect your speakers, I think the simplest way would be with the RCA to XLR cables (sadly, you'll need two of them, so you'll have to pick up another). Just run one from the free output on each of the splitters on the DAC outputs to the XLR input on the appropriate speaker (left or right).

Obviously, for each cable, get whatever length is convenient for the positioning of all your components.

1. USB Switch = $7.44 USD (cables not included)
   
2. Sabrent USB Hub = $6.99 USD
   
3. 2x USB A to B cables = $4.99 each USD ($9.98 total)
   
   Total cost is just under $25 USD. Plug your keyboard and mouse into the hub, plug the hub into the USB switch, connect the USB switch to your PC and Mac. Now you can switch on the fly between both PC and Mac without having to swap cables. The nice thing about this is that you have 4 ports total, so you can add more devices if need be.

I already said this on another post, BUT if you ask me, for the money and build quality you can't beat Schiit Audio.

Pick up a MAGNI "HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP" for $99, a MODI "DAC" for $99 - $249 for the multibit version. So between $198-and $348 you can have an outstanding smi-portable DAC and Headphone/Preamp.

You will need a set of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the Headphone amp. As for connecting your smartphone you will need this USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter and then you will then need to connect that to a USB A-B Cable. Plug the "B" end of the USB A-B cable into the Dac. Additionally you could have skipped the DAC altogether and ran a RCA-to-3.5 cable right into the back of the headphone amp. But if you are aiming to take advantage of the HiFi/master audio I would recommend you use the DAC method. Connecting your laptop is just as easy and you can just run the USB A-B cable into the DAC. Or, if your computer has an optical audio output you could use a Toslink cable to connect direct into the DAC.

your all set man. get after it.

No. You need an RCA Cable and a USB cable that has a USB2 cable that has a Type B end. (like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK). You need the square ending usb 2. Anyways I use amazon basics usb cables on mine and they're great.

Hey man, not a problem at all.


You'll need a printer cable to connect your Alesis module to your Macbook via MIDI interface.

Once connected, open Garageband and it'll ask you to choose a template, one of which is drums. Select that and it'll open up a new window. You might get a notification in top right corner as well which says "1 midi input detected" which'll prove that Garageband has successfully recognized the kit.

Now, you can select different kits from a panel on the left side and you'll hear the voice on your laptop speakers once you hit on the kit. You can output it to headphone/speaker via your laptop AUX port.

Feel free to DM me if you face any problem. Good luck dude.

No worries, I blasted a lot of info in that first comment that may not have been immediately relevant to your situation. Hopefully the details below can get you started:

In the spec, the “OUTPUT L/MONO, R jacks (monaural phone jack unbalanced)” refers to the 1/4” jacks. Since it confirms they are unbalanced, you would use a 1/4” TS cable. Check out this Hosa Dual TS cable for a cheaper example that has two cables for Left and Right. (Two single 1/4” TS cables would work just fine too). This is the cable you’ll connect to the interface for the audio.

For the UMC404HD, the input jacks are “combo” jacks that can accept TS, TRS, and XLR connections.

For clarification: unbalanced signals only have two wires, the tip and the sleeve (“TS”). Balanced have 3 wires, like and XLR connection or a TRS (tip-ring-sleeve). Just make sure if you’re looking for an unbalanced instrument cable, you don’t get a speaker cable. Both actually have TS connectors. Instrument cables have a signal wire and shield made to reduce noise, where as speaker cables have two equally sized wires that are made to send power from an amp to a speaker.

The 3.5mm connections mentioned in the specs are for sync and CV connections. These are not audio, but I ways to interface with other synths that have patch points. I wouldn’t stress too much about them if the Minilogue is your only synth for now.

In addition to audio, being able to record the MIDI
data will give you lots of flexibility in songwriting and recording. For this, just using a USB cable will work for starters. You could connect with MIDI cables to your interface instead of the USB connection, but you wouldn’t need both.

The audio interface will have a USB cable included for connecting to the computer. Keep in mind you’ll want some sort of DAW software to record into. There are plenty of free options out there to try and see what you like, and the interface you buy will probably come with some form of Lite version. Also keep in mind when using an interface, playback will also come through it as an output. You can monitor this with headphones or by connecting the Main Out to powered monitors.

Here is the mobile version of your link

That looks like a USB type B port. Any USB type A to type B cable should work.

Something like this should be ok.

Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.

You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.

USB A to B I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCA Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-

Well, I just looked up that model of camera. According to the manual I was both right and wrong. You can transfer media via USB, however I was wrong about the presence of internal storage. It just acts as a USB DVD drive, so your workflow is probably faster because your computer's DVD drive is likely a lot faster.

FYI, the mini-USB cable that camera uses is super common. Before MicroUSB took over mini-USB was the most common connector, being used by everything from cell phones to hard disks to drawing tablets. If you ever need one they're easy to find and cheap to buy.

As far as I know, the Edge 510 uses a standard mini-USB cable - I usually use an Amazon Basics cable with it, without issue.

Normally, I'd say the cable you were using was bad, especially because the Edge was getting power but no data, which seems to be a common symptom of a frayed cable. However, you did try 3 other cables, and the chances of them all being bad... well, as long as it's working, right?

Looks like a mini USB port.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

This is the cable you’ll need

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11N5A/

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

The good thing about the FanVision cables is that it uses a regular Mini USB plug that can be picked up at a place like Best Buy or online

If you buy it from KBD you can apparently get the PCB/Switches cheaper than I did..

https://kbdfans.cn/products/dz60-60-pcb
$50 for PCB, Switches if you want different switches like Cherry MX switches you can buy them from MechanicalKeyboards.com. I put Cherry MX blacks on this one, I like reds but blacks are slightly heavier actuation force, but linear like reds. Makes em not to clacky and loud but are very smooth to type on. Especially if you hammer the KB like me.

$10 for stabilizers
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Stabilizer-Cherry-Switch/dp/B0725N5DG7

Pick a case https://kbdfans.cn/collections/60-layout-case
$25-$100 or more (mine is the $45 acrylic frosted)

Find some keycaps you like, this can get stupid expensive $20-infinite$$
https://www.amazon.com/NPKC-Customized-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B072P66XWX/

Pick a plate $22
https://kbdfans.cn/products/cnc-60-aluminum-plate

Get a mini USB cable $7
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

My current solution was to route a USB Mini-B to USB-A cable from the Kraken pump out the back of the case to a USB port on the back of my motherboard's IO.

You can see the cable connected to the pump going out the case here It goes down and out near the GPU.

This will have to be the best solution for now until a USB 3.1 Gen 2 header to USB 2.0 header adapter is made; if ever.

Something like this will work:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479826454&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+mini+cable

You can transfer saves, although you might need a PC and a couple cheap adapters to do it.

You need a card reader capable of reading the SD cards. Pretty much all laptops already have that built in, but for a desktop PC you'll want something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Super-Multi-Card-Reader-TS-RDF8K/dp/B0056TYRMW/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450062474&sr=1-6&keywords=card+reader

PSP memory sticks generally come with an SD card adapter as well, which you'll also need.

You insert the PSP memory stick into the SD card adapter, then insert that into the card reader on your PC. From there, your PC should automatically detect the memory stick as if it's an SD card, and you can copy the saves for any game to your PC. Once the saves are copied on to your PC, you can copy them to anything you want later, including a different PSP memory stick.

Alternatively, you may be able to simply plug in the whole PSP to your PC using this kind of USB cord and copy the saves that way. It'd be simpler if it works, but I also don't have firsthand experience with it.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable--Male/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450062806&sr=1-1&keywords=mini+usb+cord

You need an A-Male to Mini-B USB cable like this.

As far as sims, here's ones I've personally tried, in order from favorite to least favorite.


DRL - Free

Velocidrone - Free trial

FPV Freerider/FPV Freerider Recharged - Think there's a free trial, but it's like $10-15

Liftoff - $14

There's plenty others. Hotprops looks nice, but I wasn't able to get my Taranis working with it. I haven't had a lot of time with Velocidrone, but it could easily take my #1 spot since it incorporates Betaflight's logic. There's also several other non-free sims that I haven't had a chance to try. If anyone else has input, feel free to continue the thread.

I'd look around eBay then and see if you can find a dead one for parts. This is only $10 right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Texas-Instrument-TI-nSpire-CX-Graphing-Calculator-Scientific-Powers-On-/311520632090

Oh, and can you post a pic of the charging cable? Just out of curiosity.

EDIT: I did some digging and it looks like it uses miniUSB - does that sound possible? Mini isn't much used now that micro has become "king".

Does the cable look like this? http://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-A-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A?sa-no-redirect=1

If so: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/mini-usb-jack

http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/molex-mini-usb/12085

This one should help https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A The connector is called mini USB.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I/

I've had an Odyssey for three weeks now with a 10 ft. HDMI and USB 3.0 extension. I had to use a powered 3.0 hub because I was having horrible tracking issues without one and random blue screens. I believe USB 3.0 is rated for a max of 900mA which I think can be tedious when using passive extensions. Here's what I bought :

Sabrent USB 3.0 powered hub: Link


AmazonBasics USB 3.0 extension : Link

AmazonBasics HDMI extension: Link

I just have the cable running along the floor adjacent to the wall that my desk sits next to so I haven't had the need for any mounting applications, can't help there I'm afraid. I'll be happy to try to help if you have any questions.

My 360 setup works great with just 2 cameras, my space is 2.5 x 1.8 meters. Both my cameras are up high near the ceiling pointing down in opposite corners of the room. I had problems when I tried running both cameras and the rift through my USB 3 card, but running the rift on USB 3, and the cameras on USB 2 ports works great. I use this extension cable on one of the cameras: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Manitoba here, these worked for me:

UGREEN HDMI Extension Cable 6ft

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet

Depending on your computer placement you might need a usb3 extension cable for one of your sensors, your 3rd sensor you purchased comes with one but I needed a second one for my other sensor due to placments. This is also option but I grabbed a 10ft HDMI and 10FT usb3 extension cable fro my headset as well to help give me better range with more slack. Also some camera mounts for mounting your sensors on the walls helps alot.

For referance these are what I ordered, im in Canada so these are all Canadian links so you may need to find your local equivalent

10ft USB 3 extension cables (I use two of them, one to extend a sensor and oen for my hmd)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft HDMI extension for my hmd
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall mounts for my sensors
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072KGHX8X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And because I had a lack of proper USB 3 ports on my computer I needed a PCI to usb 3 expansion card
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ME7454O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am using this combo HDMI/USB 3.0 extension cable (10 feet). Don't need to worry about passive/active stuff, just plug and play. I have been using these for 3 weeks now and they are flawless.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gotta put it in the DVI port by all accounts to make it work and keep working.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry that some are just available in 2 packs, but it's cheap and it works. Turns out I was misremembering. It was 10 feet extension and not 6, heh. I pulled these links from my amazon order history.

No problem--I'll include them all, plus what I used to mount the cameras if interested. Again, no tracking or lag issues whatsoever. Works like it's plugged directly into the motherboard.

Headset Extension:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor Mounts:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Apparently it's a "common question" despite me never seeing this issue on this sub.

This is my setup:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YFPM2CU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079736Z53/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both of these work fine with my Samsung Odyssey:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using this for HDMI connection:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR9PR5X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think you're correct. Based on your supposition, I used a USB Y cable to add some extra juice to the phone (something like this cable_link).

One male end og the Y is plugged into the back of the receiver (a Pioneer AVH Nex 2300) and the other male end is plugged into a 12vdc usb hub.

I have a USB A to USB C (tried with a non-approved cable) cable that plugs from the phone into the female end of the Y.

Worked every time I plugged in, no finicky charge/not-charging cycle.

Now to decide if I want to hard wire everything in, or just send the stereo back...

I think the issue is that USB-PD and QC3.0 both use data signaling to negotiate the charging rate and so you can't really split out data. But I may spend the money to see if this works: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NIGO4NM

​

Ended up ordering this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047AALW6 There are reviews that say it works with phones and others that say it doesn't. It'll arrive Sunday and I'll test it with my USB-C meter so that I can measure the exact charging rate with and without it.

I wonder if you could use something like this to add a car charger to the cable make your phone charge faster.

Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM/

I just made one out of an old MicroUSB cable and a Y-cable I had for a DVD ROM drive, but I guess getting a proper one would be a better idea.

Yes. You could use something like this to do what you want: https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM

(along with the needed microUSB adapter)

As many others have stated here, it is to provide more power than a single USB is capable of providing.
 
https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM
 
Check the power requirements label on the unit itself and see what it calls for.

I've never had an issue of my lan adapter disconnecting from losing power, so I can't say. You could try plugging into another port or buy a cable to supply additional power to your lan adapter.

I do not know the answer to your question, but this would solve the problem if it does exist. Just use your 2.1 with this. http://www.amazon.com/Power-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM

USB electronics run off 5 volts, not 12 (which that cable provides). You need something that converts the 12V from the cigarette lighter to 5V.

I say forget the USB hub and just get a cable that has a second plug on it for a power boost, like this one. If he can use 2 ports on the tablet that may be enough power for the drive, if not he can plug the power only line (marked red) into a standard cigarette lighter to USB converter.

Well, any external hard drive that says it's powered by USB, just assume you will need a Y usb connector. The Y takes power from two sources 1 pi and 1 other. The pi doesn't pump out the juice to keep the hd spinning.

I just bought one of these for a NAS pi project but it needed extra power.

WD 4tb Passport http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822235134

Then a Y connector
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIGO4NM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for cases, it's all about creativity and whatever gives you inspiration. I put mine in a classic (broken) sony walkman. http://i.imgur.com/GT6Xguo.jpg

This is the cheapest of this kind of thing I can find: PortaPow Fast Charge + Data Block USB Adaptor with SmartCharge Chip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QdFGybAG43Q6F

PortaPow 3rd Gen USB Data Blocker (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

Charge anywhere without fear.

To bypass this in airport we could use a USB dongle that have only the two 5 volts connector without using the two data connectors.

NOTE: I will not become rich with this idea since it's already exist https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Data-Blocker-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

>Mit ein bisschen Fantasie (oder einer Anleitung aus dem Internet) kann man sich vermutlich auch nen ähnlichen Adapter bauen

USB-Kondome gibts auch für ein paar Euro zu kaufen, keine Bastelei notwendig.

Always use a USB condom!

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-3rd-Gen-Data-Blocker/dp/B00QRRZ2QM

I got one of these (actually the 2-pack so my wife can use on in her car, too) and it seems to work great as a fast charger in my front USB ports. I just plugged the USB that was given to me by Tesla into it. It basically tells your phone that the USB is a charge-only connection, as opposed to a data connection.

Haha, ‘tis a real thing! I have several of these!

charging condom

Should get something like this then, or get a USB pigtail and bust up the data rails.

Just went through this myself, and that's not quite right. They need a data signal, or to be fooled that there is one.

Some cables or chargers don't have this, so you can sometimes use one of these to trick it:

PortaPow Fast Charge + Data Block USB Adaptor with SmartCharge Chip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_o3ZuMYTabF81c

I still can't got my ps gold headset to charge anywhere else though.

You can also get a USB data blocker if you’re really concerned. It has the data pins removed. Leaving only the power ones.

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-3rd-Gen-Data-Blocker/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=usb+data+blocker&qid=1572332234&sprefix=usb+data+&sr=8-7

These might be worth investing in as well: USB adapters that block the transfer of data from your phone.

I don't think it'll ever get to the point where we need this stuff but better to have it and not need it than need and not have it.

As a consumer, there's a competing product that looks to be of better quality for a cheaper price. This one is a more expensive than the one previously listed, however its still cheaper than yours and has 632 reviews - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Type-USB-C-Black/dp/B00S8GU2OC

You know I thought maybe you might have lol.


This is the one I’m using

Cable Matters USB-C Cable (USB A to USB C Cable/USB C to USB Cable) in Black 3.3 Feet for Samsung Galaxy S9/S8/Note 8, LG G6/V30, Nintendo Switch, Google Pixel/Nexus 5X/6P and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S8GU2OC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Izj5Cb73CGHVJ

The 3.3 ft cable is maybe too small. For me it’s almost perfect but with the battery in my pocket sometimes when looking up I can feel the weight of the power bank. So I might need the longer cable or simply adjust where I carry the battery.

I really feel bad for you... a type c from laptop still counts for quick charge 4.0+. I almost never used the power brick; oh and the transfer speeds are ridiculous. Keep that in mind when you will buy your next laptop.
Something like this should do
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ultra-USB-C-Black/dp/B00S8GU2OC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520215471&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+type+a+to+type+c

Maybe try Amazon.

I have updated to the October Android patch and used this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8GU2OC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (the 3.3-foot version), and Android Auto now works.

I know that isn't super-helpful, since I don't know which factor which fixed it, but it is now working in our 2017 Chevy Cruze.

On linux, it was likely harmless. Still ill-advised.

Better would be to offer a charge from your backup battery. Or use a USB data blocking adapter. For their safety as well as yours.

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Data-Blocker-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00T0DW3F8

It is USB device that is design to physically cut off the the data lines, with the idea being that you could use the device to charge your phone/tablet in any random USB port without the risk of data transfer.

Not that I know of. Do you need to transfer data to/from your work PC or are you just charging? If just charging you can get a USB condom, or a power only USB cable.

Not affiliated with these products, just for examples:

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Block-Charge-21AWG-Lightning/dp/B00NCR590O#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Data-Blocker-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00T0DW3F8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G9A5YXWDNYGGN2TWAYYV

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-3rd-Data-Blocker-Pack/dp/B00T0DW3F8

I think they're talking about those things you sometimes see in malls and airplanes, where it's just a USB port to directly plug your cable into. But, if you have to use one of those, it's best to use a data blocker, like this one.

Or a USB condom

PortaPow Data Blocker USB Adaptor with SmartCharge (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T0DW3F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WQp9AbGMW4RKT

It can't be done in SW, the 2.1A negotiation is by lack of data and a fixed resistance. You need a dongle to do it. They are cheap.

iOrange-e comes highly recommended. I have one for work, where the outlet is across the cubicle.

I bought a couple of these and a 12v car adapter (for the car) that can do higher amperage necessary for USB C quick charging. Theyre fairly affordable and tested to be truly USB C compliant.

https://www.amazon.com/iOrange-E-Braided-Aluminum-Connector-Nintendo/dp/B010VFFU1W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494856412&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+c+charging+cable+iorange

Here is a 6 footer Benson gave 5 stars.

https://www.amazon.com/iOrange-E-Braided-Aluminum-Connector-ChromeBook/dp/B010VFFU1W

You're going about this the wrong way. The 12v chargers are prone to weather damage.

The best way to set this up is put a quick disconnect lead on your battery and then the battery tender USB charger connected to it. Like this. But that only gives you USB 2.0... So buy this tested/approved USB 2.0 to Type-C USB cable. to run to your holding cradle. I use the RAM mount system.

This way you've got a fuse between your battery and phone, preventing either from damaging the other.

I've had this setup permanently setup on my motorcycle for the past year and it'll positively charge my phone even when I'm using EatSleepRide to track my ride, Bluetooth for music, and Google Maps for route navigation.

The spreadsheet is done by someone else doing their own testing. I would go with anything Benson has approved.

I bought these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010VFFU1W/

Oh no that was this

No prob! That's exactly why I bought one, and ended up needing the spare controller already as I destroyed one controller already by accident.

Also one thing to note, if you buy the sensor alone for $60, it includes a 16ft extension cable BUT it is USB 2.0 so it will force the sensor to 2.0 even if plugged into 3.0.

The sensor included in the Oculus Touch set does not include an extension cable, so you will have to buy one separately. I purchased this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 because I wanted to run all 3 sensors at 3.0 with a deidcated 3.0 card.

I successfully use this cable.

no audio though

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's right.

-Right sensor plugged directly.

-Left sensor extended by this this cable.

-Rear sensor extended by this cable

I have the headset connected using the extender I mentioned already and this HDMI extender.

I've read somewhere that a 4K HDMI repeater can remedy my situation, so I ordered one that will get to me on Sunday.

What really perplexes me is the how the the left sensor goes from "OK" to "poor tracking" when I plug in the headset... and how the whole thing works sometimes and other times it's a no-go.

The Best Buy vr headset cable didn't work for my rift so I pulled the cables apart and used the 3.0 extension for my second sensor since I was out of the return period. Works perfect for that.

Here's what I got for my headset and the only things I'd recommend for headset extensions:

hdmi cable

hdmi repeater

usb 3 cable

inateck usb 3 card

The usb extender cable wouldn't work with anything besides the usb 3 card for me so I would say just buy it too. Though, I can only plug 2 things into the usb card.

These 4 things solved all my problems though. You can roll the dice on the best buy cord, but there's a decent chance you'll have to buy this stuff after and this way you get 15ft of extension instead of 9.

I can confirm that this cables work flawlessly as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters

Is this a good one? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK

I assume I can't use digital optical as I'm pretty sure my PC doesn't have one. Only optical I'm rollin is an optical drive!

Pen displays generally have three connections: Video, data, power. This model uses a DVI-D cable for video. Power adapter is POW-A131 for the non-touch, and POW-A120 for the touch model. Then the USB-B to A cable for data, he's one from Amazon that should work: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK (these cables are very generic and standard, so compatibility is never really an issue so long as you get the right connector type).

Since you are getting a video signal, I wouldn't bother changing those other cables. Just swap this one and see what happens, if it doesn't fix it --- the issue could be the computer, but more likely an issue with the Cintiq itself (my money's on the cable tho).

Good luck

I'm about to buy A Schiit Magni 2 Uber and Modi 2 Uber to drive my DT 990 250ohm and AKG K7XX 90% of the time that will be used for FPS gaming. I read that the way to still utilize the soundcard's features are to go optical from soundcard to DAC and then RCA from DAC to amp. Another interesting thing I haven't found much information on is for RCA using only the red RCA cable vs. using the red & white. What's the difference? Also these are the cables I'm looking at for the Schiit stack:

• AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 6 Feet
  
• Monoprice 1.5ft Premium 2 RCA Plug/2 RCA Plug M/M 22AWG Cable
  
• 3ft High-quality Coaxial Audio/Video RCA CL2 Rated Cable M/M RG6U 75ohm Gold connector
  
• Premium S/PDIF (Toslink) Digital Optical Audio Cable, 6ft
  

look like a normal usb B plug

you probably need one of these
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/

Nope, it doesn't. This (USB A to B) is what you need, as I recall.

This new MIDI controller connects to the computer with a USB like one of these cords below:

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R0sYBb0NFMF6A


I am using a Alienware laptop from 2015ish. I'm assuming I have the newest version of Pro Tools First since I only downloaded a few days ago.

Also what is ASIO and why do people keep talking about it?

Also thank you for responding.

Would I be able to run a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK5039287/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00NH11KIK&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18176725852370964003&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026906&hvtargid=pla-181858139331 from my mixer to my laptop and be able to record? The laptop doesn't have a 3.5 mm input, just usb ports, lan and a headphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497844307&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+b+cable

This one then?

I'm also looking for a DAC for the LSR305. So far, the Scarlett 2i2 2nd gen seems to be one of the most popular.

In the case of the 2i2, you would need:

• 1x USB Cable A-Male to B-Male (like this one)
  
  and
  
  
• 2x 1/4'' TRS cables (like this one
  
  or
  
  
• 2x XLR to TRS cable (like this one)
  
  
  Whichever DAC you decide to get you should get one with balanced outputs like TRS (Scarlett 2i2) or XLR (Scarlett 2i4). It doesn't make any difference as far as sound quality if output is TRS or XLR or if you use XLR to TRS cables.
  
  So, as I said I'm looking for a DAC too and although the 2i2 is popular I haven't setled on it yet; I'm just a casual music listener and I feel the recording inputs will be wasted if I get the Scarlett as I don't do any recording at all, ever.
  
  I just wand a decent DAC (<$200) that has volume control and balanced outputs (and optionaly, very low prio, a headphone output).

Computer to PT-100 via USB type A cable.

PT-100 Main outputs to Airmotiv inputs via a stereo RCA patch cable

Oh, I got it that long intentionally. My hope was that I could run it from my radio to the coffee table, and have some length left over to wind an air choke into the cable.

My initial though was that the first cable was somehow broken, which may explain the issue. It was a generic Amazon cable, and ironically enough it is now unavailable due to quality issues. It is listed here: AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Mwwozb84M72SR

When I got the second cable, it didn't occur to me that the level of shielding or length had anything to do with problems I was having.

>Thank you for the incredibly informative reply! I've been reading up on this a bit but I'm still unsure: what's the difference in quality, latency, and software/hardware compatibility between tradition '5-din' MIDI, MIDI to USB / USB-MIDI and USB (where either both sides are USB or like [this](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6368450382305919329&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033574&hvtargid=pla-181858139331&psc=1)? For example, my digital piano has a 5 pin MIDI 'DIN', is this different in any way (software/hardware compatibility, quality etc) from the example cable provided in the link? I hear all kinds of different opinions on the matter. And it's extra confusing to me because my computer doesn't have a MIDI in port, so it's going to have to get changed into USB anyway. I mean maybe the desktop has top has MIDI in, but I'm not even sure if there's advantages there.
>
>At any rate, I think I've boiled it down to either the Keystep or Microbrute. I'm going to use softsynths with either, so I'm not sure if the Keystep has any advantages here other than being cheaper.
>
>Sorry for the rant and thanks for the help so far, it's been very helpful.

I mean it's a USB cable that is typically used for printers. Like [this].

I don't think DP is the same thing as Type B, but I can't be sure. Just get something like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK and you should be fine

A USB cable that fits the USB port in the mbox and an adapter for the Mac to allow you to connect USB. Apple should sell those.

Should be this type of USB cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK5055496/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00NH11KIK&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15333561095713687156&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004070&hvtargid=pla-181858139331

Without knowing more about your ingest workflow it's had to say, but you might be well served with a Pegasus R6/R8 or similar. That'll give the bandwidth to be ingesting a few cards at once and be duplicating to a portable drive that can go back to editoral. The fewer volumes I have to manage the easier I find staying organized. One 30TB volume seems a lot more manageable than 6 4TB drives floating everywhere. If you go the RAID/NAS route make sure you don't go too small.

A RAID could also be easier on the AEs if the DIT cart can be connected to the SAN and ingested that way. Instead of a couple hundred Mbps you could get in the Gbps range. Remember that standard gigabit ethernet won't be the answer for high speed transfers.

I know you have three laptops for ingest, but I'd try to build the cart around one laptop copying footage. Again, fewer moving parts is easier to manage. Having a utility laptop that can tackle other tasks is often useful. If you need to make proxy files in the field look into a NAS solution instead of a RAID so you can get two, three, or more computers hitting the storage concurrently.

---

On top topic of a DIT cart, put some thought into a cart. What it should have. I'd be looking for a big heavy UPS on the bottom to give the thing some stability. Maybe an APC2200? Not sure how worried you are about weight...don't use that if you're flying with it. Get your own network going on there if you have multiple computers. Also add a Thunderbolt dock and power strip on the top to give you more USB ports and power for all the travel drives that will show up. I'd connect drives to a laptop in the middle and look for a way to put a laptop on an arm on the side of the cart too. Needs to collapse down so the whole things is self-contained for transport. I'd use the middle laptop for copying and the side laptop for proxy creation.

Make sure you have all the cables on hand. Thunderbolt 2, USB2 B, USB2 Mini-B (old GoPro charging), USB2 Micro-B (old Android charging), USB3 B, USB3 Micro-B, and finally USB C. I'd have 1 each on the USB2 variants, 2 each on the USB3 variants, and 3 of the Type C variants. Gauge your own need for Firewire 400, Firewire 800, HDMI, Ethernet, and the requisite dongles. Might be wise to have a USB-A dongle and maybe an Ethernet dongle on hand for the Touchbar laptops. Even if you don't have a Touchbar they're coming. It isn't that much money (comparatively) to keep these kinds of things in a drawer, but it can make a huge difference if you have it on hand.

I'd probably trick my cart out with a mass charger and some Lightning and Type-C cables. Hit all the cables with some orange gaff or some sort of mark so that people don't carry them away. Might even tape the phone cables to the cart. Might seem excessive, but if you set that up people won't be filling up your power strip with their chargers or plugging their phones into your ingest station. 10 ports might be more than you need, especially since people shouldn't be using their phones too heavily on set, but the goal is to make sure your power strip isn't used on phones.

---

As for software, you'll have to consider your needs and what fits them best. I'm not a lot of help on that front. Haven't messed around with the options too much.

That's correct. I'm using a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK

Unfortunately, all the ones are designed to switch 1 connected device between two computers, which could work.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI

https://www.amazon.com/Cute-USB-2-Port-Hub-Splitter/dp/B00A81ISJ6

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/

Ok, so you'd plug the USB splitter into a USB port on your computer, Then you'd run the USB 2.0 B cable into one of the USB B ports on the switcher.

Then you'd remove the adapter from the ifi, plug it into the other usb B port on the switcher, and then plug the dac into the usb A port on the other side.

The "two computers" would be the line with the ifi, and the line without.

You could try using another cable like this if you don't have similar ones laying around. Might be a waste of $6 but will be a fast fix if it's just the cable.

For connecting to the computer, both boards use regular USB A/B cable, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK

The same cable can also be used to power the boards - for most cases, this is all you need.

Are you sure? This doesn't look like the cable that came with my mic: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Assuming you are using a PC or Mac with relatively standard USB connectors (things get more complicated with the new dongley-MacBooks) any well made USB Mini-B to USB-A cable ('male' on both sides) will work.

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

You can buy these types of cables virtually anywhere, including most department stores. Just make sure it is mini-USB and not the more common micro-USB that is used for most cellphones and other small devices.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

You'll need that also. Unless you have one already.

It uses A USB mini B cable to charge, according to the spec sheet. You can find one here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4LYsDb9XC01PM

You plug it into your computer, our any regular USB charger could work. When plugged into your computer, you should be able to transfer music to it. If it's been dead for a long time, there's a chance it won't be able to hold a charge, or it might not even be able to power on at all.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

just so you know, Wii U Pro Controllers charge with a Mini USB (note: Mini, not Micro). unless you really want/need the cable Nintendo packed in with the OEM controllers for whatever reason, you can get something that will charge it for cheap.

> I can't even connect the Mojo Chord to the iMac

Why not? Both take USB, and your mac also likely puts out optical through the headphone port; my MacBook Pro does.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWV62/

Ah, well if you're running sensorless, then you should be able to just swap the A and C wires and it should spin the opposite way. And if you don't have one of these from literally anything else in your house, then you should just stock up. Super cheap.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525046271&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mini+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41u32e%2BzLbL&ref=plSrch


That’s all you need. Plug into a powered USB outlet and your good

Looks like it might be one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V2r0AbT2K5DX7

It's a USB cable. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

I actually used the USB cable that was attached to my Razer Blackwidow Keyboard LOL, I’m pretty sure it was USB 2.0 and it worked totally fine. I could not seem to find 3.0 options when I was searching to purchase one a few days ago so I ordered a 2.0 one from Amazon. The keyboard cable was the only USB to Mini-B cable I had in the house.

This is the best one I could find (and surely better than my keyboard cable which worked without issue):

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t9j5CbWWYGVSN

Yep, mini on those custom keyboards.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

Pic
http://i.imgur.com/mOkC47z.jpg

Bottom
http://i.imgur.com/9e8ToJX.jpg

I have the original box, its not particularly interesting or anything. It came with a USB cable that i dont have any more but its a standard kind of cable, https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

Something like this...? Not sure what exactly you mean here

Looks like a UBS Mini cable,

​

Like so

Here's a 6ft

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lWoXDbRS43ZV0

I'm pretty good at tech stuff and boy is that connection method difficult! The setup instructions walk you through the way they want you to connect through a home router which are designed to allow you to connect to things on the network easily, for example a printer. A public wifi should be preventing you from doing what you need to do, which is to see other things on that network.

Without having the camera in front of me I can't tell you if it will work but follow the instructions on page 91 for connecting to a smartphone. On step 5 instead of connecting a phone, look for the network information from step 4 on the laptop wifi and try to connect to it. Then try to run the canon software on the laptop and see if it can find the camera. It's a long shot but it might work.

Other than that, it looks like you can use a usb cable on the camera. When looking at the rear of the camera (the screen) open the door on the right side of the camera (it swings to the front). At the top there is a usb port (it uses mini B). You need a cable like this. It looks similar to the micro usb cables that phones use but it is slightly larger. Any place that sells cameras or laptops should have one.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable--Male/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450298728&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+mini+usb

I had this exact same problem for MONTHS, I bought a new cable to connect to my pc and boom it worked fine again:D I bought this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NH11N5A/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile
This cable will work with the modi 3 correct?

Do you have an android phone or tablet? Try the Mini60. Here's a couple of links...

http://oh8stn.org/blog/2017/04/23/rip-mfj-mini-60-the-android-powered-antenna-analyzer/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA5cvPCZT6Q

You'll need a USB mini-B cable to charge it, such as...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an old Samsung Galaxy Note2 that I use. Works great! Using bluetooth, I can scan any band separately, or the whole HF spectrum in one pass.

I'd try the amazon basic HDMI cord. It's very thick, which is technically undesirable for other applications, but it's a very good thing for VR as it lets you move the data further
The amazon basic USB 3.0 extension is also cheap and works. But length is more of an issue with USB than HDMI, so keep that in mind when ordering. For instance, if you want to do a set up with longer than 10ft HDMI, I'd use a USB 2.0 extension or alternatively find an active solution so the USB 3.0 works.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE?th=1 (I used the 10 ft, and have no problems, YMMV)
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I (same as above, remember the USB stuff is finicky and depends on the PSU on your computer. But I'd say under 10 ft --this is 9.8ft-- is fine)

$7 cheap enough?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I

They seem pretty sturdy to me. I have an X55 Throttle on the left and X55 stick on the right. The cables the come on these are long enough to reach my front panel USB connectors, you might need to check your circumstances.

You will need to secure them to the mouse pads. I used Velcro strips where work very well. I have a light touch on my equipment but if you are a bit more aggressive you may encounter some movement. Having said that, they are really solid and stable. Here are some more bits that you might need:

2Pcs Velcro Strips with Adhesive Self Adhesive Hook and Loop 16.5 ft Duty Reusable Masking Tape Fastener Sticky Back (Black) (Wide 2 inch X16.5ft) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F7YQWFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_98Y3Bb603J6G0

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable 3 m / 9.8 Feet https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_69Y3BbSNQFJ1N

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=usb+extension&qid=1551202390&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

That is a 10 foot USB extension, male A to female A. It doesn't decide how fast something will charge. It is what you said you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerPort-Compatible-Qualcomm-Certified/dp/B077HFFLMS/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=fast+iphone+charger&qid=1551202765&s=gateway&sr=8-6

That is an 18 watt, single port charger and is made to charge devices quickly. THAT is the thing that decides if a device like a phone or tablet charges fast or not.

I'm using this 10' cable without issue, it's also passive, but specifically recommended at that length on the subreddit wiki here: (https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/wiki/extension_cables)

Active ones are generally a little more expensive, and will have a bigger socket on the end to accommodate the necessary electronics, for example: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK (this one is also linked from the wiki).

Rankie USB-C to USB-A 3.0 Cable,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRY0VE4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got this extension as well

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH12O5I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Knowing that it just has to be type 3.0 at least to type C, I think this AmazonBasics cable along with this AmazonBasics extender should work fine and give just about 20 feet of cable for about half the cost of the only available 15 foot cable at the moment. I'll try it and tell you how it goes.

I have the Odyssey+ and just got extension cables for it recently. The AmazonBasics gear all worked fine for me:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
  
• AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female Adapter Cord - 9.8 Feet
  
• AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter
  
  I tried it without the powered hub at first and got long static bursts on the audio. Of course, the hub has to go between the headset cable and the extension cable. The power adapter cable is only 5 feet though.

But why. Just plug a relevant USB-to-whatever into the monitor. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32814028759.html or https://www.gearbest.com/usb-accessories/pp_1719519.html. Potentially add a simple USB A extender cable to get the hub close to wherever needs to be https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I/ seven bucks. The whole things comes out to be ~20 USD and is always plugged.

Get this instead.

I’ve gotten plenty of these and given them as gifts. Also I’ve walked around the house with what I call a “corded phone” and it’s pretty dope... just takes 30’ of extension.

Yeah I've bought a https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I it's coming today so I'll test it out. It's only 10'.

I understand it's confusing, let me try to clarify.

Say you're sitting at your desk now. Turn 120 degrees to your right. 10 feet in front of you is where my case is supposed to go. Also, there's stuff in the way and the location is unfortunately non-negotiable.

So I need to get a couple of usb ports closer to me. I was thinking:
this hub and this extension cable. Reliable seller, decent reviews and they seem to be what I need (sorry for the italian links, but I think you get the gist). I might pick up the 7 ports version, but it's unlikely.

I'm also kinda worried about my monitor (cable length + it'd be better if it was tiltable), but I need to find one first, so I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Oh, and this popped up when I changed mobo.
>Some Intel B85 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Haswell Refresh CPUs.

Nothing to worry about, I suppose, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.

Edit: the hub link isn't working right. I was referring to the 4 3.0 ports one.

i put one of these extension cables on it

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I

I got these cables, using 2 of these to connect my rear sensor.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Got my rift and 1 sensor in the Inateck card, and 1 sensor in a USB 3.0 on my mobo (which has 2 ports marked as VR Ready).

Thats my setup

I have used those parts for extending the cables and the ceiling mount:

HDMI Repeater

HDMI Extension

USB3 Extension

Ceiling Mount

Here you go:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The HDMI cable is probably much better than the Bestbuy one since it's 24AWG (which is usually only used on longer cables). All in all the price is about the same with dollar conversion. You can get it a bit cheaper directly from Monoprice if you want to wait (it is the HDMI 24AWG commercial cable).

I use these 2 cables with no prob.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1KDE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00NH12O5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519404947&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+extension+cord&dpPl=1&dpID=41XSWvLuf7L&ref=plSrch

Is that too long? You mentioned a max length.

i bought these and they work fine:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

same products should be available on .com site

Nope to be fair they are 10ft. These are the exact ones I ordered and they work fine:


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Edit: Though looking at the current prices of those items, the 25ft HDMI cable is less than £9

I got these from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 15 Feet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H92EE/

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3.0 Meters):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I

Note: I've actually had one sensor connecting to the CableCreation 16ft + AmazonBasics 9.8ft for a total of 25.8ft extension, and it still works flawlessly. Signal still maintains USB 3.0 and no poor tracking errors (connecting to Inateck 5port PCI-E USB card).

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H92EE/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Just the Amazon Basic. Been working fine for me so far!

I made the mistake of buying these (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) before finding this (https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/wiki/extension_cables) which suggests you get away with Amazon basic extensions (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I)

Mounted my sensors to my bookcase using these and it works perfectly https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00NH12O5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481727569&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=AmazonBasics+USB+3.0+A-Male+to+A-Female+Extension+Cable+3+m+%2F+9.8+Feet+AmazonBasics+USB+3.0+A-Male+to+A-Female+Extension+Cable+3+m&dpPl=1&dpID=41XSWvLuf7L&ref=plSrch

Ah damn was late in the night, didn´t read the question right. I use https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00CHQS7GE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as an HDMI extender
and
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
as an USB extender. But really.... I had another 8 hour gaming event today, and all 27 games I showed WORKED perfectly!!! 5 minutes into The Climb, BAM, HDMI error, your headset could not be found, had to RESTART my pc! =(

gtx1070 here. I bought the amazonbasics branded usb3 and hdmi 2.0 cables - these specific cables - they're working fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (10ft)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (9.8ft)

-mark

I have. I used the included active USB extension cable in combination with a 9.8 ft Amazon Basic USB 3.0 extension cable to get all the way along the wall around to the back corner of my room. Oculus app reports no issues, it's green. Tracking isn't perfect but I figure that's mostly because the space is so big and I haven't set up a 4th sensor yet.

Its 9.8ft according to Amazon. Either way, I ended up moving my PC to the other side of my desk, so now I just have a stupidly long cable for no reason.

I'm planning on getting 15-18ft total for link.
I will buy this active 10ft extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 but I need another cable for another 5 or 8 feet. I saw some 10ft cables but they are ~$20. Are there shorter and cheaper cables that could work? I went through the spreadsheet and couldn't find anything cheaper on US amazon.

This Extension Cable works, and This one.

​

This USB-C cable did not work.

​

PC

Gigabyte GA-Z270P-D3

Intel Core I7 6700 Gaming PC - 3.4GHz - 4GHz Quad Core - 32GB RAM - 1080 GTX 8GB

​

Laptop

Dell 7577 i5 Max-Q GTX 1060, 16GB ram

​

Both worked no issues.

Here is a budget setup
1x HDMI Cable - https://amzn.com/B014I8TC4E
1x Logitech camera that will sit on top of your TV - https://amzn.com/B0040508OY
1x USB hub https://amzn.com/B00XMD7KPU that will plug into users PC
1x USB cable extension for Camera to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I
1x Yeti microphone - https://amzn.com/B00N1YPXW2
1x USB Cable extension for Yeti microphone to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I

Might have to get some stuff for cable management and get some cheap video adapters on Amazon, but this setup is like $300 max. Also, I would write up some good documentation and have it available in the room at all times. You will have to create some kind of documentation either way with any expensive solutions you find (Polycom trio, Logitech etc..).