Best usb cables according to redditors

We found 6,307 Reddit comments discussing the best usb cables. We ranked the 1,529 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about USB Cables:

u/pasaroanth · 103 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

That's when to use one of these. Blocks all data transmission and only allows power transfer.

Also works well if you have a car with an USB that annoyingly autoplays your music every time you plug your phone in to charge. I have my autoplay turned off but even with it off it still funnels the all of the audio notifications through my stereo, but I only hear them if it's on the USB input....which it never is.

u/LukeLC · 76 pointsr/oculus

PSA for anyone like me with a ton of random cables accumulated over the years:

Before I went out to buy a new cable, I just tested a bunch of crazy cable combos from my closet and found out that this one actually works with Oculus Link! Amazon Basics USB 3 9-foot extension cable + the USB-C to USB-A cable that came with my phone. Routed the cable over my head with a velcro shoulder pad I use for VR.

Really impressed with Link! I switched from CV1 to Quest, and it feels good to be back into PCVR! Link isn't quite perfect (at least not with this cable setup) but it's the closest thing to native I've seen on Quest yet.

u/Crabbity · 65 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

usb condom!

just find something like this, its just a usb plug without the data pins.

u/charliefrench2oo8 · 64 pointsr/OculusQuest

Hey all, I just wanted to report something.

I've been testing the assortment of cables I had around, and extensions.

Using this cable, this extension, and this PCIe Card I was able to get a 32 foot + 10 foot setup running fine. I tested it without the extension and could not see a difference in latency.
It does require active power.

Your results may vary, but I figured i'd share my test.

u/nuublarg · 57 pointsr/Windows10

It only costs an extra 5 bucks.

u/cosha1 · 57 pointsr/london

For the less tech savvy people, please please please, use a "USB condom". These stations are great for stealing all your data. They can potentially mount the memory (both internal and external) and download all your data. A USB condom removes the data pins from the cable therefore the stations can literally ONLY push power and are physically unable to mount the memory on your phones, as opposed to trying to download all your shit.

Stay safe and use a condom.

EDIT: These are the ones I use

u/welshman1971 · 54 pointsr/OculusQuest

I'm going to happily pay oculus for that cable , I've searched and searched and nothing I have found either comes close to the length / quality or price.

As it's not available at launch though I have found a 3m cable I will use until the official is released.

If it helps anyone ( UK )

Paired with this but not needed...

u/ByMennen · 48 pointsr/chicago

Just get yourself some of these friend. It blocks the data mode and just sends power.

u/FriendCalledFive · 43 pointsr/OculusQuest

Is working great with this Amazon Basics 3m cable. Am really impressed by the quality of Link!

Update: I tried adding a 1m USB3 extension cable into the mix and that didn't work.

Update to my update, I tried it with an active 5m extention cable and it worked. It isn't on Amazon UK any more, but the description was:
CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

u/iamthemadz · 33 pointsr/todayilearned

I got these a long time ago. They trick the power source into providing more juice instead of limiting to 500mA and they also seperate the data lines from the charging source.

u/bluaki · 32 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Here are some of the chargers that are known to perform "GOOD" or "BEST" with the Switch.



Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
Nintendo Switch AC Adapter|$29.99|Amazon US|This is the only charger you should use with the dock but it's big and doesn't work great with any phones
Google 18W Pixel charger|$35|Google Store|More portable than Nintendo's charger, great at charging phones too, 6ft detachable cable
Google 60W USB-C charger|$59.99|Google Store|Bundled with Chromebook Pixel 2, great for laptops, very long 12ft cable
Apple 61W USB-C charger|$69|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 13" MacBook Pro, no cable included
Apple 87W USB-C charger|$79|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 15" MacBook Pro, no cable included
RAVPower 26800mAh USB-PD battery|$74.99|Amazon US|Might charge much slower unless you turn off the Switch before plugging it in. Avoid the included bad AC adapter.

Here are some other links for the Pixel phone charger: Best Buy, UK version



Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
Motorola TurboPower USB-C 15|$15.99|Amazon US|Non-detachable 5ft cable
SONEic 15W USB-C|$19.99|Amazon US|Detachable 3ft cable
HORI Switch car charger|$19.99|Amazon US|Probably the best car charger for now
Google 22.5W Dual Port USB-C charger|$39.99|Google Store|Two USB-C ports, includes one detachable 6ft cable
RAVPower 20100mAh USB-C battery|$57.99|Amazon US|
Apple 12W iPad USB charger|$19.99|Amazon US, Apple|Requires a USB A-to-C cable, better than any other USB-A chargers



I won't list prices here since they fluctuate a lot. Some of the chargers listed above have a non-removable cable. All the others (except the iPad charger) require a USB C-to-C cable.

USB C-to-C: For the Macbook, Google, SONEic, and battery pack chargers listed above. Here are a few on Amazon: AmazonBasics,
Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.

USB A-to-C: The iPad charger is the only one that gives good charging speeds with these. The 5ft cable included with the Pro Controller works. Here are some others on Amazon: AmazonBasics, Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.

No matter which charger you use, it doesn't matter whether the cable says it's USB 2.0, USB 3.0, or USB 3.1. They all charge at the same speed. Just make sure it has the correct plug shape on each end, that it has good reviews at a reputable merchant, and that it's long enough for how you want to use it.

u/hailfire91 · 31 pointsr/BIFLfails

Try anker I have had one in my car and one for my main charging and both are absolutely fine after more than 2 years of use!
Edit: spelling...

u/JoinMyFramily0118999 · 28 pointsr/nyc

Make sure you use a condom.

u/VirtualRealityOasis · 27 pointsr/oculus

If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;

Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!

The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.

I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.

Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.

Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;

Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:

UK -

US -

KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:

UK -

US -

DVI to HDMI Adapter:

UK -

US -

CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):

UK -

US -

UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)

UK -

US -

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:

UK -

US -

Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:

UK -

US -

Hope this helps :)

u/mikegriffin84 · 25 pointsr/oculus

This is what I have experimented with and works great on multiple systems... For you look at step 2 and 3.

1st GET A THIRD SENSOR IF YOU WANT TRUE ROOMSCALE "they are on backorder at the moment"

2nd Get three of these for your sensors to make sure they can reach anywhere you want them too:

3rd Get 2 of these to completely isolate all of you VR components from the sometimes janky unreliable USB ports on A LOT of motherboards that cannot supply enough power and/or bandwidth for all of the cameras and HMD to work properly I chose this card because it only has two ports and both of those ports work no matter if you plug in 2 sensors or 1 sensor and the HMD. The Inatek card DOES have issues for somewhere some ports work and others do not and are still only being able to run 2 sensors off the Inatek card and having to run the HMD and 3rd sensor off the motherboard. The Orico card just works and you don't have to think about experimenting with ports just plug everything into the two Orico cards in any configuration and go. Also use the default Windows drivers whether you go with the Inatek or Orico card only upgrade after trying the defaults drivers without success:

4th This is optional. One of these for extending your HMD HDMI cable by 15ft for a total of 28ft:

5th This repeater is required to make the HDMI cable above work, but with this repeater, the extension is flawless:

6th To extend the Rift HMD USB I use the USB 2.0 Active Extension Monoprice Repeater Cable that comes with the 3rd sensor it is 16ft long, works perfectly. Then I used a small piece of electrical tape every 6 inches from the HMD to the PC to make the extended HMD cable one piece leaving about 2 ft of cable loose at the end to be able to plug in wherever I want.
I did a lot of research bought the Inateck and Orico USB add-on cards, multiple active USB extensions, multiple different HDMI adapters and extensions of varying lengths, Display port to HDMI adapters, DVI to HMDI adapters, and did all the experimentation and testing required to make all this work. The list I listed above works every time on multiple systems in different environments, rooms, and households.
If you need clarification on anything and/or want more information, feel free to respond or message me. I will gladly help.

After you get your USB cards installed and you sensors plugged in with the hardware I listed above reboot the system and the follow the below instructions.

Also when you get your stuff after everything is installed and setup do this as a last step for good measure:
Once the sensor setup has fully completed, search for PowerShell in the Windows start menu, right click it, and click 'Run as administrator'
Copy all of this PowerShell script (hit Ctrl-A, then Ctrl-C), then paste it into the PowerShell window (Ctrl-V), then hit Enter
Once it has completed, close PowerShell and restart your computer (this is important)
Here is the link to the script, just copy all the text on the page and past it into powershell:
This basically sets all of your usb cards and ports to a high power no sleep mode and assures that Windows doesn't try to manage your usb's at the wrong time in the wrong way. I am not sure if I needed to do this but I just did it for good measure. I did all of the manually until I found this script that somebody else on reddit made. Just makes it quicker and easier than changing all the settings one by one.

Note if you haven't done this already you can do it now with your current setup to see if it helps "Probably won't but it may"

u/Bulletproofmonk · 22 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/Ketomatic · 22 pointsr/speedrun

Literally copy-pasting from your pastebin because it'll look better here and I don't have to worry about looking like I'm hijacking because I didn't write it, aha! Having more resources in one thread can only be a good thing. Aim your upvotes at /u/senichi


What game should I speedrun?

You should speedrun a game that you love to play. If you're serious about speedrunning a game, that could mean practicing for possibly upwards of hundreds of hours to beat your time. You might be playing the same segment of a game over and over again before you're finally happy with your performance in that section, and you could be playing for many hours before that happens. For this reason, you want to pick a game that you won't get bored of quickly. A game that you're happy playing for possibly hundreds of hours so you can get a time that you're happy with before you get bored of it.

How do I start speedrunning?

Once you pick a game, there are different ways you can start speedrunning. Here's the method I like to use after picking a game.

  1. Figure out if other people have run the game. If they have, figure out what categories exist. Some games have multiple categories that you might like or not like. For example, if you would prefer a short run, you probably don't want to do a 100% category.

  2. Pick a category. In the rare case that nobody has run the game you want to run before, you get to pick your own ategory. This can be something like "any% - beat the game as fast as possible" or maybe you want your run to focus on collectibles or completion. If other people have run the game you want to run, then you might want to pick a pre-defined category so you're not completely in the dark.

  3. Look into runs that people have submitted in various places. You can check or YouTube, or just Google your game and the category to see runs of it. Watch the world record run, then look for a runs with worse times that might use a different route. The world record run often uses strategies that are risky and hard to do, so you might not want to jump into a game using that route.

  4. Find guides. When you think you've seen enough routes, you want to either start looking for tutorials (this is usually only an option for the popular games to run), or if you picked a game that isn't a popular speedrun game, you might need to just use any submission videos as your "tutorial".

  5. Play the game. Run the the game slowly using the strategies outlined in any tutorial you found, or by copying what you saw in a video. If possible, try doing any tricks or strategies that are new to you multiple times before moving on. Stay on this step until you feel fairly comfortable with your game. If needed replay the game slowly a few times and use the speedrun tricks.

  6. Do a run. Make it official. Find a timer, for this run any timer should do fine, and time your run from start to finish. Don't worry about your final time. A lot of people have terrible times in their first run, but that's totally okay, it just means it'll be easier for you to beat it later on.

  7. Practice. When you finish your timed run, you should have a pretty good idea on what you need practice with. Some things you thought you were confident on might be more difficult in an actual run. Practice anything you had trouble with in your first run.

  8. Repeat. From here on, you pretty much just repeat steps 6 and 7.

    I'm getting bored of my game! What do I do?

    Don't worry, that's not abnormal. Since speedrunning requires so much dedication towards a single game to get a good time, it's common for people to get burnt out or bored before they're happy with their personal best. If you're getting burnt out, I recommend simply taking a break. There's no harm in leaving your game alone for a month or longer and playing other games. Maybe even learn a new game for fun if you still have the speedrunning itch you want to scratch. If you continue to play a game that you're starting to get bored of, you risk getting bored of it on a much longer term, and possibly resenting the game or even outright start to hate it. Who knows, maybe when you come back to the game feeling refreshed, it might be even easier to get a new personal best.

    What capture device should I use, and how do I set it up?

    First ask yourself this question: Do you want a cheaper capture device, or would you rather have a good quality device?

    If you want a cheaper device, many people recommend the GV-USB2. It's considered the best SD capture device on the market, so if you're recording the older consoles that don't need HD video, then this should work perfectly.

    If you want a higher definition device, I recommend the Elgato GameCapture HD. It's very easy to use and the output is excellent. Keep in mind that, at the moment, if you use the GameCapture HD, you might have to use XSplit instead of OBS to stream. OBS currently has an issue with the GameCapture HD that causes it to desync, and in my experience XSplit doesn't have this issue

    In addition to the capture device, you will need TWO Composite Video Cables, and you will need THREE splitters.

    Here's a picture of how to set up your capture device using the GameCapture HD and a Nintendo 64 as an example. The setup would be the exact same using the GV-USB2 and any other console that uses composite cables. If using the GameCapture HD and HDMI cables, the GameCapture HD has an HDMI in and HDMI out port, so you would just use two HDMI cables, one going from your console to HDMI in, and another going from HDMI out to the TV.

    Who currently holds the world record for <game>? How can I find more information about <game>?

    There are multiple ways to figure this out.

  9. Google it. Just Google "<game> speedrun world record" and see if anything pops up. Look for the fastest time and there's a decent change that's the world record.

  10. Check A lot of smaller communities and even some larger ones use because it's easier than making a whole new page. Check this site for the game you're curious about and see if you find anything.

  11. Look for Wikis. This subreddit has a wiki that lists a lot of different sites that might host leaderboards. Check to see if the game you're looking for has a wiki on that list, and if not, try Google again to see if there are any wikis not listed in there.

  12. Ask around. Go to Twitch and look to see if anyone is streaming the game you're curious about. You might find someone speedrunning the game right now, and then you could ask them or see if their Twitch bio has any information about it. If that doesn't work, you could check out the weekly noob question thread and ask about the game. Someone else might know where you can find the information you're looking for. You could also send a message to someone that runs the game on Twitch if you know anyone that does, even if they're offline. Speedrunners are generally happy to spread information about their game and would be happy to answer any of your questions.

    Can I use an emulator?

    This varies a lot from game to game. Different communities deal with emulators in their own ways. The usual answer to this question is yes, but it's considered a different category. The reason for this is because emulators are often not perfect in their emulation, so there might be differences in framerate, which affects your time, or sometimes even entire tricks are possible only on emulator.

    Some games don't accept emulation at all, but that only means that any runs that you do on emulator won't be able to go on the leaderboard. You still might want to use an emulator for exclusively practice because emulators let you use save states that make it easier to repeat the same part over and over again. Just keep in mind that while using an emulator you might be practicing at a different framerate than on console, or you might be dealing with slight input lag.

    The FAQ on SpeedRunsLive has a list of emulators that are commonly used and banned.

    In the end, the answer to whether or not you can use an emulator is specific to whatever game you're playing. These are only general guidelines and may vary on your game.

    What's that timer program I see on peoples' streams, and how can I get it?

    There are multiple timer programs that are listed on the Tools sections of SpeedRunsLive. The most popular timer program at the moment is LiveSplit, but in the end it's personal preference.

u/spanishrelease · 20 pointsr/firstworldanarchists

You can use one of these:

It blocks data connections, you can only use it for recharging.

u/lazlokovax · 18 pointsr/london

Be safe kids.

u/proweruser · 18 pointsr/de

Naja gar keine Daten ist auch blöd, weil Telefon und port dann nicht die Leistung aushandeln können und es dann nur mit Minimum tröpfelt. Aber es gibt Ladekondome wo nur aushandeln drüber geht.

Edit: Zum Bleistift:

u/PM_ME_BAKED_ZITI · 15 pointsr/GooglePixel

Anker PowerLine USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (10ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Galaxy S8, S8+, MacBook, Nintendo Switch, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10, Xiaomi 5 and More

That's what I got, but just fair warning it's a very heavy cable. I'd say about twice the thickness of what you are probably accustomed to for charger wires. Overall though can't complain. It does it's job, and reasonably cheap IMO given its good construction

Although if you wanted USB C to C, I can't help you much, sorry. I would assume that most you find in Amazon be good quality, but for me personally, I will go for Anker every time if they have what I'm looking for, even if it's slightly more expensive.

It seems as though they do not have long c to c cables though, unless I am blind

Edit: Here's a comparison between a regular 3ft cable from Anker, and the one I linked earlier

u/Smilotron · 14 pointsr/smashbros

FAVOLCANO Easycap ($11). See capture quality here.

i-o Data GV-USB2 ($35). See capture quality here.

Diamond VC500 ($36). See capture quality here.

Dazzle Video Capture ($44). See capture quality here.

Hauppauge 610 ($49). See capture quality here.

To capture from these you would need a computer, an AV splitter, and some software to capture video (like OBS).

u/Doombuggie41 · 13 pointsr/umass

Turn off the wireless functionality, and plug it in with a USB cable. Usually, they use one like this:

u/whitedragon101 · 13 pointsr/oculus

I did a group test on USB3 extenders here is what I found out :

I tested using an Asus z170 Deluxe motherboard it has both Intel and AsMedia USB3 ports. I also used the Oculus recommended Inatek 7 port USB 3 Card.


Cables in this category mean the sensor detected as USB3 in Oculus devices and didn’t lose connection and provided solid tracking testing with the headset on, no matter what brand of USB3 port it was connected to (Intel, AsMedia,Inatek).

MutecPower 5m active USB3 extension cable £22

(picture seems to be wrong on amazon website, also note this cable seems to be sold as various brands but I'm pretty sure its all the same cable, it should look like this

CableCreation 5m active USB3 extension cable £12

Amazon Basics 1m Passive USB3 extension cable £4

——Sort of Worked——

Cable Matters 3m Passive USB3 extension cable £7

Detected as USB3 when using the InatekCard (which has extra power from a SATA power connector)

Detected as USB2 when using motherboard Intel or AsMedia USB3 ports

Cable Matters 5m Active USB3 extension cable £11

Only worked as USB 3 in one of the AsMedia ports and only when everything else was disconnected. Was USB2 or has an error in other AsMedia or Intel ports. Detected as USB3 in the Inatek Card and seemed ok testing in Oculus home loading area.

——Didn’t work——

Belfen Superspeed 5m active USB3 extension cable £7

detected as USB2 on every USB3 port including Inatek card

u/Brink_GG · 12 pointsr/OculusQuest

I bought these to test with:

Amazon Basics USB 3.0 A to C cable

Right angle USB C adapters

And I have this left over from my Oculus CV1 accessory kit wishlist I put on amazon. I'll report back here with what works and what doesn't. I'm also going to get a public google sheet going of cables, adapters (right angle) and active/passive extensions that work so that people can use that as reference.

EDIT: Link to sheet. Anyone with link can edit. Don't make me regret that. I will lock it. (Though if you want to fix my terrible formatting, feel free.)
EDIT: Had to disable open edit permissions. Going to add a form that will add unformatted data at the bottom, then I'll format it properly into the thread. Here's the form:

u/tapman · 12 pointsr/DiWHY

PortaPow Fast Charge + Data Block USB Adaptor with SmartCharge Chip (2 Pack)

u/Nanuaq · 12 pointsr/speedrun
u/aroloki1 · 11 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This means that as long as you are using a type-c to type-c charger or a type-a to type-c charger that uses a cable that 100% sure has the 56k ohm resistor then most probably you are fine with any kind of dock.

Of course do not take this as a promise from my side and use these docks at your own risk, but as far as we know this is the actual issue behind the bricked Switches (and many bricked USB-C laptops).

Amazon points out if a cable has the necessary resistor, for example:

u/hitmewithmuzak · 11 pointsr/synthesizers
  1. Google search 'Casio CTK3200 Manual'.
  2. The first link is the Casio official website download page
  3. Download the manual
  4. Check the table of contents on page one, the section called Connecting External Devices > Connecting a Computer on page E-34 sounds good. Alternatively, the General Guide section on pages E-2 and E-3 show you the back of the machine and tell you for the USB port turn to page E-34. E-34 is definitely where we want to go.
  5. That page tells you that you need a "USB cable (A-B type)" so lets google that too
  6. The very first link is for an AmazonBasics brand one that is $5 and has free one-day shipping.
u/deja-vecu · 11 pointsr/iamatotalpieceofshit

All you need to prevent this is a power-only cable, or a USB condom like this one

u/senorroboto · 11 pointsr/LosAngeles

This. Don't use one of these unless you have a "data block" adapter that only passes the power pins, not the data pins:

Or a "charge only" cable.

u/Sirotaca · 11 pointsr/speedrun

GameCube and Game Boy Player is the standard setup. The startup disc for the Game Boy Player can be a bit pricey these days, but you can softmod the GameCube and use the free Game Boy Interface software as an alternative.

From there, you can get an HDMI adapter and HDMI capture card (lots of those to choose from). Or if you need to save some money, a good S-Video capture device like the IO Data GV-USB2, an S-Video splitter, and a GameCube S-Video cable will still get you a pretty decent-looking capture. Either way, set it up in OBS and you're good to go.

I'd suggest also getting an SNES controller adapter. I find it way nicer than using the GBA as a controller. There's also one for Wii Classic Controllers if you prefer.

u/ERIFNOMI · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/CoarseAnus · 10 pointsr/speedrun

Get a GV-USB2 capture card! It's basically the go-to for standard definition console gaming.

He'll also need a video/audio splitter. I use this one and it works wonderfully. You'll need an extra set of composite cables as well. (That's just an example. Get whatever will ship on time for you)

If he wants to stream on twitch, consider getting him a webcam and mic. Let me know what your budget is and I can recommend some options for you.

u/coneill101 · 10 pointsr/GooglePixel

I really like Anker products. I have a bunch of their cables and battery packs. Solid products.



u/bicameral_mind · 10 pointsr/oculus

People on the Oculus Quest subreddit have confirmed Link works with 980Ti.

I bought this cable which is what Oculus is recommending:

u/Seanm57 · 10 pointsr/OculusQuest

I use this one and it works fine.

u/TitanIsBack · 10 pointsr/PS4

>A Best Buy rep said I HAD to buy a new PS4 Camera for the PSVR to work properly, not the "old" version?

Both versions work with PSVR.

>One Target rep even said a PS3 Eye would work lol.

That rep is wrong.

>Also, these Motion Controllers?

The PS3 and "PS4" versions are the exact same. There's nothing different between them.

>What exactly do I need to get these working?

You need a mini usb cord. Since they're from the PS3, that's what they use.

>anything else I should buy(accessories)

Personally, I like this charge stand, keep everything charged for use.

u/SecTechPlus · 10 pointsr/security

Something like this

Allows power only, with no data connectors.

u/derpaderp_flaps · 10 pointsr/ableton
u/gavinmcmahon · 10 pointsr/nyc

I always carry a few USB condoms for this reason.

u/zbowling · 9 pointsr/assholedesign

Amazon has them:

Plugable USB Universal Fast 1A Charge-Only Adapter for Android, Apple iOS, and Windows Mobile Devices

PortaPow Data Blocker USB Adaptor with SmartCharge

u/_MusicJunkie · 9 pointsr/homelab

Don't really know what you are talking about but something like this could be used with every machine which has a internal USB header and every standard USB drive.

u/Pottiland9 · 9 pointsr/GalaxyS9

Don't use that

I'd say go with the OEM (Samsung ones) or Anker fast charge ones

USB C Charger, Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (6ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, MacBook, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 and More

Btw I don't think Samsung fucked us

I'm glad we have type C it's Innovation it's the future

Usb c is better in every way except cost for now

u/DM725 · 8 pointsr/essential

It's the cable. I had the hardest time with Android Auto until I got the right cable. I've used 6 different Android phones without issue using that cable.

This cable works (temp out of stock in black but available in white).

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters) - Black

u/shamrockstriker · 8 pointsr/smashbros

Fellow broke college TO here. My weeklies average around 15 too so i feel like we're in a similar situation. My venue doesn't have good enough internet in the basement to stream to Twitch, so we only record and upload to youtube.

For my laptop, I use a pretty ok, free laptop my college gave me. You don't need anything fancy if you're not streaming.

I use this as a capture card, I got it on sale for like $15. It's far from the best but it really gets the job done and serves its purpose.

I've also had one of my players recommend me this capture card. I've never used it but I hear it's cheap and it's good.

For the player cam, I use a used camera on got on sale for $11. Once again, it's not great. But it gets the job done on a budget.

For the actual stream layout I found free overlays online, and my homie who's good with photoshop hooked us up with a logo for free.

If you wanna see what we're working with, how it looks, and what the quality looks like here's our Youtube channel.

If you have any questions just hit me up. I'd love to help another little local scene like mine grow!

u/abney317 · 8 pointsr/speedrun

gv-usb2 is generally known the give the best quality s-video capture

u/StrawberrySpeedruns · 8 pointsr/speedrun

For anything with the traditional red, yellow and white plugs, this thing here is king. I-o DATA USB connection video capture GV-USB2

You will need this, a splitter, and two extra sets of cables (look in the "frequently purchased together" section below). Plug the console into the splitter, then run the extra cables from the splitter to your tv/monitor and to the capture card. The capture card is USB, just plug it in to your computer.

All the software instructions will be in Japanese, but just Google the name of the product and you will find some very easy to use installation guides.

From there, just use your choice of recording or streaming software! I'm an xsplit guy, but OBS is popular because it's totally free.

EDIT: Also, if you're going to run Mario 64 specifically, make sure you have the proper version of the game! I'm fairly sure it's primarily played in Japanese, and I'm not sure if there are glitches missing from the US release.

u/TyrialFrost · 8 pointsr/oculus

Can't believe this took a year.

That said they should add the following ASAP.

  • 8m Rift cable.

  • USB3.1 Gen2 Type-C 4-port Sensor hub.

  • USB3.0 Active 5m cable.

  • Slimline adhesive mount for sensor

  • Travel case for Rift

  • Touch gun mount

  • Glasses facial interface

  • Replacement XBone controller (with rift sticker)

  • Replacement Left/Right Touch controller

  • Oculus Home Gift card

  • Enter the Rift - Shirt, Hoodie, Underwear

u/BoostedBoards · 8 pointsr/boostedboards

It's a standard mini-USB cable. You can use any high-quality cable, like this one from Amazon.

u/nasteeenate · 8 pointsr/lightsabers

Mini USB-B

Power and data - so 5v charging if the board supports it. Not likely because you have removable batteries. The port is more than likely used for flashing firmware.

Amazon link if you are in the US.

u/japzone · 8 pointsr/Android

They do, but that doesn't prevent outright malicious pranksters. So you'd need another safety device as well.

u/VoidByte · 8 pointsr/britishproblems

You should get a USB Condom.

I have to have one in my car because otherwise the sat-nav crashes when you plugin a phone.

u/VR_Bummser · 8 pointsr/OculusQuest

For everyone in Germany. I can confirm these two cables work flawlessly, giving together 6.8 meters of freedom.

u/st23576 · 8 pointsr/oculus

There was some guy who tested a bunch of extenders with the Rift sensor on youtube.

I ended up ordering this one because as I recall he determined this was the best passive extender:

u/browndizzle · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

My suggestion for everyone, reasonable price and high quality (brand tested by the Google Engineer, approved. I also tested the outputs with my own multimeter and noted they meet spec after reading all about his comments):

6 ft USB 3 to USB-C:

3 pack 6ft USB 3 to USB-C:

Portable battery pack that I got for my future switch (includes all needed cables):

edit: I was intrigued by the power meter linked above from satechi. I ordered it, will test that device to and see what the devices/cables I have output through it. Probably take more than a week to get to Canada, and it cost an arm and a leg to ship.

u/randomname72 · 7 pointsr/GalaxyNote8

I got a USB C HDMI dongle that works with the Nintendo switch and out of curiosity I plugged in my note 8. It booted into Dex. I didn't realize you couldn't just use it anytime.

It was this [MYRIANN 1080P HDMI Type-C Adapter Dock for Nintendo Switch, TV HDMI Converter Cable for Nintendo Switch (Silver)] (

But it needs more power than a regular USB brick so I got
[UGREEN USB C Charger 30W PD USB Type C Wall Charger Adapter for Macbook, Nexus 6P, Nexus 5X, Nintendo Switch, Samsung Galaxy S8, Lumia 950 XL, Google] (

And this
[Anker PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including Galaxy S8, S8+, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, Huawei Matebook] (

These work with the switch and my phone went into Dex mode when I plugged it in with these.

u/panZ_ · 7 pointsr/mac

I've used quite a few different chargers with my MacBook and MacBook Pro. Yes, a 3A charger for a phone or Chromebook will work fine to charge it overnight or keep it topped up while you work under most scenarios. If you're running VMs, software builds or video editing, the Pro will eat more than 12W and you'll be at a minor deficit but it I'll get you those extra hours. I've also used the MacBook 30W charger (with a PlugBug for travel) with the Pro.

My favorite chargers now, though, are the Anker USB bricks with a type C port on them for travel and home. I use the 40W for travel. It only drives the 3A/12W on the C port but it is nice to have the other ports to charge a phone, headphones, watch and spare battery. Then I keep the 60W version at my nightstand. The USB port on that drives 30W (verified with the System Information app). I use their USB C cable as well. It doesn't do 3.0 transfer speeds but for charging it is perfectly fine and super durable.

u/EdgarFriendly297 · 7 pointsr/OculusQuest

So, the cable recommended by Oculus arrived and I gave it a quick test. Just to recap, this is what I posted yesterday:

>My experience so far has been OK but not great.
>For reference, I'm using a R5 3600x and GTX 1660 ti, 16GB ram.
>This is the cable I'm using
>It may be the cable I'm using but I do find it blurrier compared to the Rift S. And I'm seeing compression artifacts in dark areas. For example, in Skyrim at night the mountains in the distance have artifacts. Although, I'm not seeing artifacts in the grass like I could see when using ALVR and VD. Also in the loading screens in Asgard's Wrath, which are mostly dark, I'm seeing a fair bit of artifacts. Lighter parts of the game seem fine.
>I've got the cable on order that Oculus suggested. I'm curious to see if it fairs any better.

I ran through the same games as yesterday with this new cable and I'm still seeing video artifacts. It may not be to the extent of the first cable, but definitely still there. The game that seemed to hold up the best was Stormland. Aside from the slight blurriness compared to the Rift S, it was a pretty good image.

Later this week I'll be testing with a RTX 2060 Super to see if there are any improvements.

So far I see the Link as a nice addition to the Quest, but it won't be replacing my Rift S. I think what Oculus has achieved is amazing, and I hope they can keep improving the image.

u/nx_2000 · 7 pointsr/PSP

No. Mini USB looks like this.

u/beansjawns · 7 pointsr/philadelphia

I was slightly serious. I use this data blocker when charging in a public USB outlet.

u/icancounttopotatos · 6 pointsr/teslamotors

Go into Settings > Touch ID & Passcode > allow USB accessories when locked. I think this setting was introduced after Apple was in the news for not unlocking phones for law enforcement and they found a way around it using the lightning port. Apparently the iPhone sees the Tesla as a computer with the data pins active so that’s why the message doesn’t show up when you plug into a power brick. Another option is to buy a USB Data blocker which is a pass through for power but not the data pins. I use this one and it works well.

u/petascale · 6 pointsr/buildapc

USB C male to A male cable, like this. You can use a type A hub if you wish.

The spec is only limiting USB C female ports, they have to be native USB C.

u/alpacafox · 6 pointsr/galaxynote10

I've been using C2C cables from Anker since my S8 days:

They have great build quality and they're nylon braided.

I also use them to charge my XPS13 sometimes, which also charges at 45W.

u/theheadgeek · 6 pointsr/OculusQuest

In case it's helpful to someone, I just got this cable and I'm finally working. It's 10 feet and works like a charm!

u/OldIronKing · 6 pointsr/speedrun

You need the dazzle and a couple splitters (if you want to play on the tv). With that you can use obs (open broadcast software) to stream.

edit: I doesn't have to be a dazzle. Cosmo uses this one for n64:

the splitters can be found at:

with the splitters you will need a male to male av cables:

To get the capture card to work on obs, you create your scene and source a video capture device. You need to make sure all the drivers are installed for the capture card.

Other than the capture card linked, elgato makes good ones, dazzle, and there are probably others. DO NOT BUY CHEAP CAPTURE CARDS. They are shit, trust me.

u/Baz135 · 6 pointsr/SSBPM

> For starting out, cheaper options include the dazzle or elgato.

Oh geez please don't recommend these two to people

Dazzle is just trash quality and has audio issues, and Elgato (I'm assuming you're talking about the Elgato HD?) has that audio delay issue which is just something that absolutely should not be present in a supposed "high-quality" and fairly expensive device.

The GV-USB2 should be the go to starting/budget capture device. It's cheap, it's decent quality, and most importantly, it just works without any glaring issues.

There's also a million copies of it which can be had for cheaper but many of them have issues, so it's not worth it.

> Bit rate I use is 2500

This is fine for streaming but if you're local recording I hope you record at a higher quality.

u/BashPrime · 6 pointsr/speedrun

I can't recommend the ioData GV-USB2 enough. It plays really nicely with OBS and a lot of other software. The driver installer is in Japanese, but there are guides and installation is really quick and easy. You'll need some sort of splitter cables or Y-splitters to connect your N64 to both a television and the capture card, but that should only run you around $15 extra at the most.

u/wpnz · 6 pointsr/WiiUHacks

I have that same HDD, make sure you get a USB Y cable to help power it from 2 ports.

u/annoyingone · 6 pointsr/wiiu

This is the HDD that I have been using for 9 months without issue. With this y cable. Works perfect.

u/OwThatHertz · 6 pointsr/VRGaming

Warning: wall of text ahead. I'm going to recycle an older comment and make it more specific to your post.

It kind of depends. What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to swing your arms while standing stationary? Do you like simulations, such as racing games or flight/space sims? These actually have an impact on the best headset (HMD) for you. I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey so my comments are based on use of all three.

Oculus Rift:

Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is, in my opinion, a little inferior to the Rift, even if you get a 3rd sensor. However, you can "fake it 'til you make it" on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. The Rift requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, or 4 if you add a 3rd sensor, so that's a lot of requyired ports. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale, though this is something they've overcome with time. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps), limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) MUCH more pronounced "god rays" than the Rift. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. Customer service is ticket-based only and there's no option for phone-based support.

HTC Vive:

The regular Vive is $100 outside your price point. The Vive Pro is more than double so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has significantly better tracking than the Rift unless you get at least a 3rd sensor, and even then there are sometimes issues. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. The Vive offers a better Roomscale experience, in my opinion. Games are purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and YMMV. Not every game works. (Essentially, it tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected, and remaps the buttons to the Vive controller. However, since there are differences between the controller control types, this isn't always perfect.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, however, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3 and one HDMI, and that's it. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB. HTC support is both phone and ticket but is terrible either way. Some people have resorted to public shaming via YouTube/social media. YMMV.

Samsung Odyssey (WMR):

Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (seeing the gridlines between pixels) than other HMDs. This is very nice for more detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims where you have to read a lot of small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't work... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so, realistically, it's just a seated/standing experience. Roomscale is technically possible but severely limited. Also, there are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, which will break tracking. Samsung's phone-based support is usually pretty decent, though I haven't needed it for the HMD yet.

Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:

The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences, so...) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment. IPD stands for interpupilary distance, which is the distance between your eyes. Everyone's eyes are a different distance apart but most WMR manufacturers didn't include this feature to keep costs down. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience. I'd strongly recommend going with one that does. I haven't generally heard good things about any of the other WMR HMDs other than the Samsung Odyssey or the Lenovo Explorer. The others are relatively cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both.

A note about VR graphics:

It really depends on the game. To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can necessitate less comprehensive textures. However, people have done absolutely amazing things with VR to the point that you simply don't notice. A prime example of this is Lone Echo (Oculus only). The visuals are stunning, though I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the incredible story, method of teaching game mechanics, and the pure immersive feeling they pull off. Lone Echo is VR done right, and it feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. That's the game currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. All of that said... you are looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. It's like looking at 1080p on a 70" screen from <4 feet away. You are going to notice the pixels, but you're also going to forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the incredible experiences and other visuals. The only exception to this will be games with lots of detail like flight and space sims. Unfortunately, games like that really need higher res than VR can realistically provide right now. This may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll probably mostly forget about the issue.


Your roomscale abilities are going to be hampered by your small play area. Generally, the recommended minimum area is roughly 2x2.5 meters, if I remember correctly. Some roomscale games will refuse to launch with such a small area marked off. Others will launch, but you'll be unable to reach some things. Your play area will probably just barely suffice but you might need to "cheat" and mark off a slightly larger are than you actually have. The Vive and Rift both do Roomscale and seated/standing VR. WMR only does seated/standing VR reasonably well and is terrible at roomscale (due to the restricted cable length, not to mention poorer tracking) whenever you are able to make more room for it, and the controllers are much worse.

Cable lengths:

All VR HMD cables are a bit shorter than they could be. You can buy some extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no explicable reason. I've found that this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable work to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend the Rift cameras. If you decide to get both a Vive and a Rift, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs are able to go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.


At this point, my recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift. If you know you'll get into/stick with VR and can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be in highly-detailed simulators or similar games.

u/ailurofile · 5 pointsr/Amd

Trying again. My previous attempt was removed by mods, not sure which link was in violation but I changed one of them:

Wow. Good going.

How about:

  1. One of these:
  2. Paired with:

    BTW I have NO IDEA if that would work. But in theory you would think it would.

    Power cable into the adapter at #1 above is separate, but seems like that would be a legacy standard.

    Also, there is this:

    Datasheet PDF on that page is super-vague, so very much in the theme of 1995 All-Over-Again.

    If you get both 3.5" drives up and running, you should stripe them together into a RAID 0 !!!
u/Vexedly_ · 5 pointsr/unRAID

I've been using this thing forever. I like your contraption as well. Installing mine upside-down results in frying your flash-drive. heh

u/lunarsunrise · 5 pointsr/homelab

I put together a machine just a couple of months ago to replace my little consumer-grade router at home. I look at all of the options (the various ARM families, Atom, etc.) and wound up deciding that the best option was to go for the low end of the current generation of Intel x86 parts.

Here's what I threw together:

| Category | Part Name | Price Paid | Current Price |
| Motherboard | GA-H61M-HD2 | $49.99 | $54.99 |
| CPU | Celeron G1610 | $42.99 | $42.99 |
| Memory | 2x2GiB DDR3-1333 DIMMs | $30.78 | -- |
| Power Supply | Solid Gear Mini ITX 180W PSU | $26.78 | $26.78 |

At this point you've spent $150.54 and you have a small (9" by 9" or so) system (minus a hard drive) that will blow any of the more exotic options out of the water... and that runs your favorite OS just fine. It's got a gigabit network adapter onboard, as well as onboard video, which is at least a nice fallback if you have any trouble getting it set up as a server.

I spent $3.77 on a motherboard-header-to-female-USB adapter and $6.99 on a well-reviewed 8 GiB thumb drive and called it quits, since my usage (as a router) doesn't really need any storage.

Then I splurged for a passive CPU cooler; it's made by Supermicro for their 1U servers, installed very easily, and was all of $24.23. Now the only fan around is the tiny one in the PSU!

I added some of these network cards which add two gigabit ports for $30 each, but since it has the onboard gigabit port, you don't need to do that unless you need more than one port.

I had intended to put it in one of these cases, which comes with a questionable PSU, but it showed up broken and I never got around to re-ordering. It sits very happily on a little cardboard tray without a case. (Also, even the smallest cases are much larger than just the board, since they assume you might want to mount hard drives or optical drives.) One of these days I'll bust out the woodworking tools and build a teeny little case for it.

As a tiny little finishing touch, I spent $2 or $3 on a power button (and reset button, power LED, and hard drive LED; they came as a set) from someone on eBay.

By my count, my configuration was a total of $150.54 + $38.00 = $188.54 before the extra network adapters. If you like, add about $20 (for a total of ~$205) to remove the PSU and add a cheap case that comes with a PSU. (You can also skip buying the buttons and LEDs if you do this.)

I don't know how much power the machine itself uses, but the whole power strip (with Roku, Raspberry Pi, DSL gateway, a dual-band wireless access point, and probably some other things) uses about 100 watts.

u/team_corgi · 5 pointsr/SSBM

Get the GV-USB2. Its the go-to for speedrunners and I've heard great things. Probably the best bang for your buck.

u/jamacanbacn · 5 pointsr/Twitch

I do not recommend Easycap's solely off the fact it is impossible to find a "real" one. Almost every one of them on amazon now are fake Easycap's. With them being fake half the time you could get one that does not work or that just does a horrible job and then randomly stops working.
While it may be a little bit more I highly recommend the GV-USB2 It is $40 which is about the pricerange for any legit capture card. Usually if they are under $40 you tend to get fake ones.
Here is some sample gameplay from my PS2 :
It is in a dark section of the game so you can see how darks handle. Do not judge me for my bad gameplay :)

u/snakemaster77 · 5 pointsr/smashbros

GVUSB2 is generally considered the best price to quality ratio.

u/lilgreenrosetta · 5 pointsr/photography

Well in that case you might want to have a look at this cable on Amazon. The design is, as far as I can see, 100% identical to yours. You might want to have a lawyer look at that.

For what it's worth I have one of each and for me the Cablecreation one is currently proving more reliable than the Tether Tools one so if it's an imitation they haven't done a terrible job.

u/Dixonian89 · 5 pointsr/oculus

Lots have used them and reported working on here:

mine will be delivered today (I'll be testing it tonight), I will report back once I find out if it works or not.

These are the cables I purchased, both are confirmed to be working from others, if it works I will have a total of 26 feet for my Quest to PC setup. I will be testing them in about 5 hours from now:

Cable (10 ft version, which is sold out):



Edit: these both worked great for Link on the quest. I now have a 26 ft setup for only $24 total! The Anker cable even came with a Velcro cable tie i'm using to secure the cable to the headstrap so it doesn't yank out of the USB port on the Quest while playing a game.

u/drrenhoek · 5 pointsr/oculus

Few useful links to get you started.

Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide

List of recommended cable extensions

I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.

u/krishnugget · 5 pointsr/OculusQuest

Edit: Nevermind I found it on oculus’ website

Yeah I couldn’t find it on UK after a while of searching. I did find this one

u/labcoat2 · 5 pointsr/oneplus

I never thought cable quality was a thing but purchasing this wire made me understand what a high-quality cable is like. It fits firm in my phone, and it has great velcro straps to keep them organized!

u/Mehknic · 5 pointsr/GooglePixel

Probably not. A-C is typically much safer because the A side of the port doesn't deliver nearly the power that C can. That said, a bad cable could still do damage in theory.

Grab one of these and you should be set.

u/couponexpires · 5 pointsr/WRX

There's a good chance the cable you're using might not be sufficient for Android Auto. Try another cable if you have one available. I recently bought a new one and can confirm this one works perfectly.

u/costantinea · 5 pointsr/WindowsMR

I have the Odyssey plus and had this issue. This fixed it:

Hub for power: and

Data repeater (active cable):

Active c goes to computer USB port; then use the hub; connect your headset to a hub port

u/nobody8008 · 5 pointsr/headphones

I had to change USB cables several times. I ended up using an amazon basics USB that works fine - the two others I had laying around did something similar to what you describe (I think they were older printer cables). While the ALO cable should be good, for some reason the Jotunheim seems picky about them. Here is the one that works for me, I don't know why it's any different than the other ones I tried but it is:

Also, even with that cable I find that I have to unplug the USB from the back of the jotunheim every time I shutdown my computer and try to play music again, then reconnect it, otherwise I get some kind of digital skipping sound every second. Reconnecting the USB on the laptop side doesn't fix it for some reason.

Also it's strange that it suddenly stopped working; cables can wear out though, especially if you're using a laptop like I do, bending/stretching happens. I know it sucks but try even more usb cables if you can.

u/cakan4444 · 5 pointsr/ireland

If it asks for data, it COULD be a security threat, but it would have to get access or exploit a vulnerability for it to get any meaningful data.

If you're ever paranoid about possible security issues, you can get a data condom that only allows power to the phone.

If you have cheap car chargers or USB ports that you only want to use power with, this thing is great.

u/JoyousGamer · 5 pointsr/AndroidAuto

I looked up my Amazon order history it's this one:

Cable Matters Ultra Slim Series USB-C Cable (USB C Cable) in Black 3.3 Feet

u/_illogical_ · 5 pointsr/nexus5x

I've been using iOrange-E cables, and have been pleased with them so far.

I started with the 6' USB C to USB A cable for in the car, but I didn't have an adapter to do the rapid charging.

Then I got the 6' USB C to USB C cable to replace the stock 3'.

I also got a BlitzWolf 5V/3A USB C Car Charger, so that I can have rapid charging in my car, pleased with it so far.

Now my original C to A cable is just a backup, or if I want to charge my phone downstairs and don't feel like going upstairs to get/use the rapid charger.

u/Mortifer557 · 5 pointsr/iPadPro

I bought the 30w Anker charger Charger atom PD
And this usb c cable USB-C cable

u/OmarTheTerror · 5 pointsr/pixel2

I have a couple of these for phone and other devices.

Can verify they fast charge

u/Deaflat · 5 pointsr/OculusQuest

You need a USB 3 cable. The charging cable that came with the Quest is USB 2 and won't work. The Oculus cable isn't required and any USB 3 cable will do. For now that means we are limited to 3m for our cable length until the Oculus cable ships. This is the cable I and many others bought. It is USB-C to A but they have a C to C version as well. Both will work.


Edit: I've noticed the price on these cables has gone up the last few days. I wonder if that is because of us snatching them up. One of the colors is still $14 though.

u/sushicomped · 5 pointsr/OculusQuest

#here are the links you crafted without referral codes:

Amazon Basics USB 3.0 A to C cable

Right angle USB C adapters

u/Agrippa619 · 4 pointsr/OculusQuest

Anyone know if this cable would work?

Says it's a 3 meters ( 10 feet) usb-c to usb-a 3.1 cable. Should do the trick, right?

u/dream_minder · 4 pointsr/ender3

Sure! Here it is:

It's called Mini USB. It went out of popularity like 6 years ago but for some applications that require extra durability, it's still quite useful in my opinion. The sockets are much harder to break than micro usb or usb C

u/nickgiz · 4 pointsr/oculus

It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter

You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension

I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports

u/Dragonair476 · 4 pointsr/iphone

I've had my AmazonBasics 6ft Cable since 2014. I also bought this AmazonBasics USB 3 9.8ft Extender Cable. So when I need it, I have 6 feet or 16 feet of reach. Really no wear and tear yet.

u/f0urtyfive · 4 pointsr/CarHacking

Get a 12v (powered) USB hub and wire the barrel plug it comes with to a cigarette lighter plug (don't reverse polarity).

Alternatively, buy this 6$ purpose built cable I found:

u/tsdguy · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Here's a USB A adaptor which blocks data

All you had to do was search Amazon for "USB A power only cable"

u/CultistHeadpiece · 4 pointsr/HelloInternet

You can use cables with no data transfer, or something like this:


u/stevemarket · 4 pointsr/KodionATV4

It took me a while to figure this out but you don't. There are a couple of options.

  1. You can load a virtual machine onto your PC and load MacOS onto it then you can use XCode to sideload Kodi onto it. The only drawbacks are that unless you have a paid developers account ($99/Year) it will only last you about 90 Days before having to re-sideload Kodi back onto the device.

    Here is the link to a guide:

  2. Which is a much easier method is to use a third party app signing service like iPwnStore to load Kodi onto your device. It's only $12 or something like that for the year and you do not need MacOS to complete the sideload. I've used them multiple times with no issues. You will however need a USB-A to USB-C cable you can get from Amazon for pretty cheap.(

    Link to iPwnStore website:

    You will get the instructions emailed to you after completing your purchase at the iPwnStore.

    Video for Installing Kodi from iPwnStore:

    It is a bit of a pain to go through all this but I feel like it's worth it. I love having Kodi on my Apple TV.

    Hope this helps.

u/workworkwork1234 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Or you could save money and get any other USB type C wall adapter and cable. These are just examples but I'm sure there are even cheaper combinations. Don't pay more for something that says nyko on it.

Wall adapter





u/thatgreekgod · 4 pointsr/nexus5x

yes on the encryption front.

check out this excellent guide on how to root:
if you haven't done anything like this before, word of advice: watch a couple of youtube tutorials (from start to finish, don't leeroy jenkins it) so you know what to expect. you'll need a usb cable to connect it to a computer. see:

I bought this one and am happy with it:

after some experimentation, i decided to go ahead and do a "traditional" root instead of the systemless one. there appeared to be few limitations with the systemless root (i.e. i couldn't use an app called Secure Settings with it) and the android pay tradeoff seemed worth it. I like being a nerd, but that doesn't mean that everybody behind me in line at starbucks has to know that. I'm fine just pulling out my wallet.

it's an easy process. just follow the directions and you'll be fine

u/dodland · 4 pointsr/news

Gotta wrap it before you tap it, assuming these aren't also compromised...

u/DaGamer12345 · 4 pointsr/speedrun

The GV-USB2 is a relatively cheap but is considered to be better than the Dazzle DVC100. Downside is that the manual and software is in Japanese, but using the device is relatively straightforward and is supported by free capture tools such as Virtualdub and OBS.

If you do get this, to install the driver software, put the CD in your computer (you can also download the drivers from the manufacturer's website). Select the box to the right, then select the box with a 1 next to it.

u/Sylnic · 4 pointsr/SSBPM

The GV-USB2 is probably one of the best cheap cards out there. If you want an example of the quality, here's a recording from back when I was using it. I'm pretty sure it can look even better, as I was only using the RCA cables, and not the S-Video input. Just make sure you get a powered splitter like this or this (for S-video) so you can send the signal to both the TV and the recording device without lag.

Just make sure you set the device up properly and use some kind of deinterlacing. For ease of use I'd just recommend using the built in de-interlacing options in OBS.

Edit: If you're short on money and don't want to spend extra on a splitter for live capture, then you can just save your match replays using Legacy TE, and then record them through the recording device using your computer screen to navigate the menus. This requires extra work though, and it can be easy to forget to save your replays. I'd just recommend getting the capture device and the splitter so you can record it all in one go.

u/rey_kzizzle · 4 pointsr/speedrun

You can go the SD route and get a GV USB2, which is the best quality you'll get out of a SD capture card. This is the best choice.

u/domotobin · 4 pointsr/SSBM

For sub-$50 I like the GV-USB2. However, you'll need to purchase three RCA female-to-2-male splitters if you want audio and video to go to both the capture card and the TV (they're cheap though), and your computer will need a CD drive to install the capture card's drivers (unless you find them online, which is also a possibility).

u/shortstack51 · 4 pointsr/wiiu

I get stuck on "Checking USB storage device..." when I try to format an HDD, even after purchasing a y cable. This has been a week-long saga getting this to work. Why is this so difficult?

I saw that the Seagate Expansion external drive was recommended by Nintendo, so I picked up a 500 gb. I saw someone else on a forum say it worked for them. However, my y-cable just came in and it's still not working. This is the y cable I bought: I have a white 8 gb wii u if that matters.

I tried plugging it into my computer with 1 cable and it works fine, so it's not the drive. I made sure it wasn't partitioned out of the box. I have it plugged into the front two USB ports. What do I do? Did I waste $50? (I bought it on clearance at Target--I don't think I can return it).

Edit: Turns out I needed to use the back USB ports. Problem solved.

u/DeafPapa · 4 pointsr/oculus

My mobile setup is as follows:

MSI GT73VR- nvidia 1070 – Samsung 960 pro’s – 32 gigabyte memory – processor under volted using Throttle top 850 to reduce heat.

Laptop stand for airflow-

Powered USB-c hub-

Display port to HDMI adapter (saves wear/tear on HDMI port) -

Extension cables 15' headset and 3rd sensor-

Active HDMI repeater for headset-

Facial replacement-

Some items picked up over time. While at times I think a tower system would be great…. This allows me the flexibility to setup at other locations in / outside the home and still have normal laptop while not in VR.

u/PMental · 4 pointsr/oculus

I used these for the USB (5m or ~16ft) works with both Rift and Sensor):

And a passive 3m (~10ft) HDMI 2.0 extension:

They are connected to and work well with my ASUS Z97-K motherboard for the USB and a Sapphire R9 290X GPU (on of the Tri-X OC'd ones).


u/TalonX273 · 4 pointsr/OculusQuest

Might be a difference in hardware, but I'm actually floored at how little latency there is. Any latency I felt I could effortlessly compensate for. Via Link, I played my usual Beat Saber Expert + maps on Steam VR. It felt damn near identical to my CV1 (tri-sensor setup) allowing me to get my usual scores. What really surprised me was the lack of occasional stuttering in Beat Saber I normally got from my CV1 setup. I can only describe what team Oculus has done as pure black magic! Like you said though, it's not on the level of an Index PCVR setup. But holy crap, at the price point and added portability, it's more than good enough for most!

For reference, my setup is: i5-3570K, GTX 1060 6GB, Inatek 4-port USB 3 PCI card, CableCreations USB 3 Active extension cable, and Anker 6ft USB C-to-3.0 cable. Might order the 10ft cable for more mobility.

u/deadmtrigger · 4 pointsr/OculusQuest
u/stereoprologic · 4 pointsr/nexus5x

Apparently the spreadsheet has affiliate links in it and my previous post got removed, so here's hoping this one will stick.

Here's a spreadsheet with various accessories:

You can also test cables yourself with the following app by connecting your phone to a computer with the app open:

I can personally recommend these: bought several, scattered them around the house and use them with different chargers.

u/waffledork · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

No problem! There's been a lot of confusion around here and it would be a shame if someone's Switch blew out within the first week because of improper cables =(

The Amazon reviews also say that it was approved by Benson and that's really my only litmus test =P

u/SerdaJ · 4 pointsr/GooglePixel

Here are some accessories I use and love.


[6' long USB A to C]( PowerLine+ USB-C to USB 3.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, Nokia N1 Tablet, OnePlus 2 and More

[6' long USB C to C cable]( PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, OnePlus 2 and More


[5 port (1 C and 4 A) charger]( USB Type-C 40W 5-Port USB Wall Charger, PowerPort 5 for iPhone 7 / 6s / Plus, iPad Pro / Air 2 / mini, Galaxy S7 / S6 / Edge / Plus, Note 5 / 4, LG, Nexus, HTC and More

That 5 port charger has been amazing. It is routinely use to charge a combination of my daughter's tablet, my Pixel, my wife's iPhone 7 Plus, my Xbox One Controller, mine and my wife's Kindles, and random devices from visitors with no problem. It has charged tablet and both phones simultaneously without any issue and at a very normal rate. I also use my OEM wall charger in the bedroom and the OEM Nexus 6P charger for travel.


[Caseology Paralac]( Pixel Case, Caseology [Parallax Series] Modern Slim Geometric Design [Black] [Textured Grip] for Google Pixel (2016) This is my work case ( I work 7 days on and 7 days off so I use it every other week) and feels and looks great but isn't as thin as I'd prefer. I generally prefer no case or just a dBrand skin.

This is my home/out and about case. [The Spigen Ultra Hybrid clear.]( Ultra Hybrid Google Pixel Case with Air Cushion Technology and Hybrid Drop Protection for Google Pixel 2016 - Crystal Clear

Honorable mention if you want the thinnest case (note: This case won't fit over a dBrand skin.) [Niilken Nature series. ]( Pixel Case, Nillkin Nature Series Clear Soft TPU Case Back Cover [Ultra Thin] [Slim Fit] for Google Pixel - Grey

I also found these [Yootech glass screen protectors]( Pixel Screen Protector [5.0"] [2-Pack] [Update Version],Yootech Google Pixel Tempered Glass Screen Protector for Google Pixel to be more than good enough but they cover screen only and not full front (supposedly due to the subtle curvature of the fines edge).

Of course you can never go wrong with a nice dBrand skin for that finishing touch.

Hope this helps.

u/Adit9989 · 3 pointsr/lgv30

Look for a cable which specify that it has a"56K" resistor . The charger must be able to detect that it can do fast charging, if not will just do standard charge. Something like this one:

Length of the cable does not matter. Fast charging require changing the voltage so it's 9V or higher not 5 V so there is some required spec for this to work properly, so a simple cable may only do the 5V standard charge.

u/jmnugent · 3 pointsr/applehelp

USB-C is the shape/design of the end-connector.

USB 3.0 is the specification for cabling/data-transfer.

What you need there is a USB-A to USB-C cable like this:

u/Dank_Edits · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

I looked at some of the amazon basic cables. They seem okay, I guess. They are decently priced so I may go for them as I need multiple. I need one for my car so I can use my phone for android auto, one for my PC and a third as a backup in case I lose/break one.

Edit: I have gone ahead and ordered 3 of the Amazon basic cables here. The reviews seem really good and at a good price. 3 of these cost around the same as a single cable in local stores around me. Thanks for the help.

u/CyndaquilSniper · 3 pointsr/SwitchHaxing

Here ya go: AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters) - Black

u/sirnumbskull · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest
u/bostrt · 3 pointsr/essential

I have a 20176 Hyundai Sonata and PH-1. Tried using the AmazonBasics cable ( and still doens't work. I've also tried this Anker cable ( and it also doesn't work!

u/Biggz1313 · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

Anker Powerline+ are my go to cables. My pixel wont be here for a month, but have already bought my some cables to go along with it.
They have USBC to USBC, USBA 3.0 to USBC, pretty much any combo you'd need.

u/ImAPepper94 · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

I use an Anker Power line and Cable Creations. Both are great. The Anker is 6' the cable creations is 10'. I use the Google type C brick for both.

Anker PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy Note 8 S8 S8+ S9, iPad Pro 2018, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, Huawei Matebook, MacBook and More

USB C Cable 10ft, CableCreation USB C to USB C Braided Data & Charging Cable (20V,3A) up to 480Mbps, Compatible with MacBook(Pro), Galaxy S10/S9/S9+, Pixel XL 2,etc (Space Gray)

u/TheWolfyLynx · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest
u/timrbrady · 3 pointsr/nintendo

The cable at the top of the Pro Controller and the bottom of the Switch itself is USB-C, which isn't a proprietary connector, so...there is a longer wire.

u/CraigCorb · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

They'll be stored on the PC. This is the cable that's been officially recommended by Oculus.

u/nairebis · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

The recommended cable is sold out everywhere. I tried a different cable and didn't work. Surprisingly, this Amazon Basics one (recommended by others) worked great:

u/paultkennedy · 3 pointsr/lightingdesign

You don't HAVE to have a gadget, or even an ETC device, with the nomad key dongle you can also output to sACN or Artnet. These nodes can be had for about half the price of the gadget II!

I also suggest doing what ETC does with their PUCK. They put the nomad key dongle inside the NCU to keep it from being lost or stolen. You can use something similar to this:

u/freedomlinux · 3 pointsr/freenas

As for the security of the USB port, moving the flash drive into the case can deter accidental or casual mischief.
If you have a spare USB header inside something like this lets you relocate the USB to inside.

After 2-3 years I have no problem using some ordinary SanDisk sticks. There is also a section in the FreeNAS manual for mirroring the boot device on 2x USB drives.'

EDIT: FreeNAS is unlikely to preserve the data from a Linux software RAID. In fact, probably can't read data from pretty much any other filesystem. May need to restore from a backup in order to load up the NAS.

u/MastrWalkrOfSky · 3 pointsr/smashbros

No clue. Probably because it's a workaround. If you have 35 bucks to drop, I'd highly recommend this card:

It's amazing quality, easy with drivers, etc. Works perfectly with OBS once you install the drivers, which there's a tutorial on how to do it in the amazon reviews (it's click a couple boxes, but it's all in Japanese lol).

I use that, with this splitter, and S-video. Here's an example of what it looks like with my setup:

u/Captain_X24 · 3 pointsr/speedrun

When you're just getting into it, you don't need to record. You could also just use the ol' webcam-at-the-screen. If you're serious about posting your times to leaderboards, get a capture card. This one is good and cheap

u/iotku · 3 pointsr/speedrun

Easycap clones ($5-10~)

If you're extremely short on funds you can play the easycap clone roulette and hope you get one that kinda works maybe.

You might end up getting one that just happens to suite your needs fine.... or you might not.

Not Reccomended, but cheap

Used Dazzle DVC100 ($20~)

Dazzles can be somewhat cheap used, they're still not the best capture cards money can buy and have some driver issues, but it's a popular choice and works for a lot of people well enough. Can be found on ebay for pretty cheap.

Probably the cheapest option aside from the "Easycrap" clones

KWorld ($30~)

/u/TLoZSR mentioned a while back that he was a fan of This KWorld Capture card.

I've seen a few of his videos with it and they look perfectly fine.

EZCaps ($30-$35~)

I've heard ok things about the legit EZCaps (not the cheap clones)
If you go this route make sure you're not ending up with a fake!

I don't have any personal experience with them.

GV-USB2 ($50~)

This defiantly deserves an honorable mention, although isn't anywhere as cheap as a used dazzle. Default settings out of the box are great, picture quality is very good, good drivers, and pretty much no complaints. Oh and here's an amazon link I guess (can be hard to find elsewhere). Box / driver installation is in Japanese, but not too difficult to figure out.

I use it personally and I really like it

These are all SD capture cards with composite/S-video, composite will look not so great regardless of a powered splitting setup, however it's defiantly recommended if you use S-Video (powered splitters can cost $30-50~), alternatively you may be able to get by without splitters if you have a video cable with both S-Video and composite (s-video would go into your capture card), but you may also lose a bit of quality that way if the cables aren't too good. explains a fair bit

Good Luck!

u/CynicalTree · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Order a GV-USB2 if you need a capture card for your console. It's $50 and works great.

As for recording Faster Melee, use nVidia ShadowPlay if you can (as it will take frames directly from the GPU and have little-no impact on your CPU) or some sort of software that can screen capture (OBS, Fraps, XSplit, Gameshow, etc)

It's a small investment to be able to help each other. Reviewing sets is huge.

u/mrchowderclam · 3 pointsr/Twitch

I think the Wii U should output an HDMI signal, but for older consoles like the N64, I've heard great things about the GV-USB2. Most N64 speedruners I know use it. It's (relatively) cheap too! $35 USD on amazon: I believe it's imported from japan.

u/lashazior · 3 pointsr/speedrun

From what I've been told and read on, most everyone recommends getting a GV-USB2. Dazzle DC100 is also an option but it needs some workarounds to get proper sound working in OBS. I used to use a Sabrent VR-GRBR for a few years. It was 20 bucks at the time with pass through (read: no splitters) and the cables so the deal was worth the money. However, the quality was kind of ass. It would have random artifact problems and slowly degraded over time now it just plain doesn't work anymore. I know some people stream with EZCap which is basically the budgety version of a GV-USB2.

If you really want to go all out though, you'd be looking at running RGB out into an upscaler for a HD capture device, but that gets pricy depending on which systems you own and everything.

u/PWH187 · 3 pointsr/wrestlingmemorabilia

This adapter is a good one for the price.

Edit: Linked the wrong one

u/FabbrizioCalamitous · 3 pointsr/speedrun

Since you say you're not tech savvy, I'm gonna assume you'd rather not hard-mod your N64 to output a component (480p) signal. Also, N64's output resolution is remarkably low so it doesn't take much to capture good looking N64 gameplay.

What you probably want is an S-video cable (this is the kind I use). I know it says for gamecube, but video cables for gamecube, n64 and snes are universally interchangeable, so you're good.

For capture, the best bang for your buck is gv-usb2. For streaming a composite or s-video signal it's pretty much the universal standard.

Hope this helped.

u/senichi · 3 pointsr/speedrun

I wrote about this on an FAQ I made some time ago. The GameCapture HD seems to be a bit cheaper than the Avermedia Extreme, and I have one and enjoy it and I see other people recommend it as well. Here's the section that mentions capture cards so you don't have to click the link:

tl;dr: I recommend Elgato GameCapture HD, and you shouldn't need a special graphics card at all.

How do I record my gameplay? What capture device should I use, and how do I set it up?

If you're playing a game on a console ask yourself this question: Do you want a cheaper standard definition capture device, or would you rather have a more expensive high definition device?

If you want a cheaper device, many people recommend the GV-USB2. It's considered the best SD capture device on the market, so if you're recording the older consoles that don't need HD video, then this should work perfectly.

If you want a higher definition device, I recommend the Elgato GameCapture HD. It's very easy to use and the output is excellent. Keep in mind that, at the moment, if you use the GameCapture HD, you might have to use XSplit instead of OBS to stream. OBS currently has an issue with the GameCapture HD that causes it to desync, and in my experience XSplit doesn't have this issue. However, this could change at any time. Some people are able to use OBS with their GameCapture HD without any problems, but I was getting a lot of delay and couldn't find any fix for it within OBS.

In addition to the capture device, you will need TWO double sided composite video cables, and you will need THREE splitters.

Here's a picture of how to set up your capture device using the GameCapture HD and a Nintendo 64 as an example. The setup would be the exact same using the GV-USB2 and any other console that uses composite cables. If using the GameCapture HD and HDMI cables, the GameCapture HD has an HDMI in and HDMI out port, so you would just use two HDMI cables, one going from your console to HDMI in, and another going from HDMI out to the TV.

Note that recording handheld games can be pretty difficult and sometimes expensive. For recording GameBoy games, you can use any capture device and the GameBoy Player for the GameCube. If you're recording on one of the newer systems like Vita or 3DS there are ways to add a capture card to the systems, but that can be risky, expensive, or both. I believe Vita players can opt into PlayStation Now to record Vita games as well.

Once you have the capture device setup, you can continue to the PC section below. Since the point of the capture device is to put the output on your computer for easy recording, most any livestreaming program or recording program should be able to grab your console output and record it for you. Some capture devices might come with their own programs to record with as well, and you're free to use that.

If you're playing a game on PC then recording is much cheaper and simpler, mostly because all you need is just one program. For local recording you can use something like FRAPS or you could use OBS, and if you want to livestream then the popular choices are OBS and XSplit. I don't recommend XSplit if you want to focus on local recordings only because it saves files as .flv and I find those more difficult to work with than what FRAPS or OBS can output. I won't go into depth with the setup for those as there are many tutorials elsewhere for that kind of thing.

u/JohnBrownsBroadsword · 3 pointsr/speedrun

TOTAL noob question but would this work with the GV-USB2 for SD consoles to OBS?

Or would I still need to go the route of grabbing two male/male cables and three splitters?

u/marianodlt · 3 pointsr/wiiu
u/TheCrazedGeek · 3 pointsr/wiiu

This is the one I have, it's worked perfectly for me for over a year:

u/jijipopo · 3 pointsr/wiiu

Or a Brand Flash Drive 128gb ~ $25 - $50 amazon and ebay
EDIT: For $56.99 you can get a 1TB (~960gb) HDD but you need a Y cable which is $6 more ($63 semi-total for HDD)
Have a great day!
Y-Cable, HDD
and the FlashDrive

u/Moist-Moose · 3 pointsr/nintendo

There's no real good summary in the comments here, and I just looked into all of this since I'm in the same situation.

Nintendo recommends you use an externally powered hard drive, like this. The single USB port doesn't have enough power to use a more portable hard drive, like this, unless you have a Y-cable, like this. The Y-cable provides enough power to the hard drive for proper operation since there are two usb ports. The problem is that Y-cables can be hard to find locally, and you almost always have to order them online. Mine is taking 3 weeks to get here.

Flash drives can also be used, but Nintendo says that the constant writing and re-writing that occurs on the drive as a result of gameplay can eventually corrupt what is on the flash drive, possibly deleting data and save files. Of course, it's up to you what you do, but the general consensus is that externally powered hard drives are the most reliable way to go.

If you google "Nintendo Wii U Hard Drives" Nintendo has a whole page on it. Can't link to it since I'm at work.

u/MyHugbox · 3 pointsr/Xenoblade_Chronicles

No, flash drives aren't built for constant read-writes like other drives. It will greatly shorten the life span of the device.

Sounds like you already have an hard drive. Just look for an USB 3.0 external case for it, kinda like this 10$ case

Then a Y-cable

u/sparksdls · 3 pointsr/ipad

Lightning provides little power - you'll need to provide external power either through a Lightning dongle supporting it or Y-cable like this -

u/NegrOtaku89 · 3 pointsr/wiiu

Here you go. I've been using this one for 2 yrs with no issue. It's USB 3.0 $6.99 & Prime Eligible.

u/Doiq · 3 pointsr/wiiu

I just ordered this along with a y cable:

I wanted to keep it to a terabyte or lower since the hard drive has to be dedicated to the Wii U due to Nintendo's encryption. I read reviews for both the hard drive and y cable and multiple users stated they worked well with their Wii U.

u/Zulithe · 3 pointsr/PS4

The old 500GB drive from your PS4 will make an excellent hard drive for your Wii U if you don't have one yet. If you follow this guide, you'll put your PS4's old drive in the enclosure of the replacement drive, so it's almost ready to go. Just get a Y-cable for it (if it's a USB 3.0 drive, use this one), and remove all the partitions from it (no need for even format it), and plug it into your Wii U, go it its settings menu to finish the setup.

u/lifson · 3 pointsr/oculus

Well that sounds great, but I just realized I built the cable from the recommended 15 ft cables on this(yours?) video.

Watch "EXTRA-LONG 15' Oculus Rift Break-Out Cable - IT WORKS!" on YouTube

Using these:


It does not work on 2 of my 3 motherboards.

u/crazy_goat · 3 pointsr/oculus

Order some wall mounts (generic tripod thread - tons of amazon) - a USB 3.0 Extension cable for each sensor (5M Cable Matters active model for $16 works great) and you'll be good. This will allow you to mount your two sensors in opposing corners for Roomscale tracking - provided your room is of adequate size.

You can extend the rift's own cable(s) with a 6ft HDMI extension cable, and 6ft passive USB 3.0 extension cable. Anything beyond that will likely give you problems. Get some velcro straps to tie both of those extensions together and it'll double as a breakaway cable were you to tug on it too hard.

Maybe consider grabbing an add-in PCI-E USB 3.0 card. I ordered this USB 3.1 card for $35 because USB 3.1 controllers can handle 10Gbps of throughput, which theoretically means both of these ports should be able to run at the full 5Gbps 3.0 mode, so it could handle both sensors with ease.The amazon reviews have some Rift users implying it works great.

Also - you'll get Robo Recall for free, it's a great action game to get started in. It'll set the bar pretty high for you - but it's a very comfortable (and often intense!) experience.

u/Katur · 3 pointsr/oculus

This HDMI and USB extenders should give you enough.

> In the best case scenario i can only get 10 linear feet (16 ft cord, 6 foot tall person = 10 feet)

Also the Math says in best case you'll get 14.8 linear feet.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/oculus

Below are the cables I used, all worked flawless for me, however I bought the $80 5gbps USB hub card

approved 6ft usb extension

approved 6ft 4k HDMI

for sensor extensions

u/sizzleprint · 3 pointsr/computer_help

Looks like one of these, though I can't be 100% sure:

Edit: spelling

u/Squadeep · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Mini usb-b

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters)


u/406highlander · 3 pointsr/canon

For connecting it to a PC?

Use a standard USB A to Mini USB B cable, something a bit like this

If it's to connect it to a TV, then you want a mini-HDMI to HDMI cable, like this one

If it's the connector for remote shutter control, then this is what you might need

Hope this helps

u/ii46 · 3 pointsr/oculus

I also use 3 meters passive extension cable with two sensors. It works fine.

This one to be precise.

u/Greenman539 · 3 pointsr/oneplus

After reading the reviews, I feel the same way.

Most of the 5 star reviews from the United States look kind of fake because none of them seem to speak English properly.


>factory cable and charges with get than stock cable.
>did not tried yet
>I'm very satisfi3ed with this short cable...

I would just get the charger from OnePlus themselves (click here).

Although the one from OnePlus is only 150 cm, you can always use a cheap USB extension cable from Amazon (click here) to make the cable longer. The one I linked can extend your cable about 300 centimeters.

u/Zeiban · 3 pointsr/oculus

I ended up putting my PC in the corner with the middle sensor and purchased 3 10ft USB 3.0 extensions and a 10ft HDMI extension.

If curious, here is what I got.

2x USB 3.0 extensions for 2 of the 3 sensors.

1x USB 3.0 extension for HMD

1x HDMI extension for HMD (2 pack but I only used 1 of them)

I used these every foot of the USB/HDMI cables for the HMD to bind them together.

u/MechanicalDruid · 3 pointsr/Showerthoughts
u/Triabolical_ · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

Here's one.

Note that there is the possibility of damage to the computer.

u/bymyhand · 3 pointsr/AndroidAuto

One from Amazon if you would rather buy from there. Great idea though!!

HIGHROCK 30cm USB 2.0 a Power Enhancer Y 1 Female to 2 Male Data Charge Cable Extension Cord(1pc)

u/ultralightdude · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

If you are running a little low and need to connect to UL panels, you could always bridge two of them together with this.

u/ThisIsMyXxXAlt · 3 pointsr/funny

This is what I use, does the trick. You can use any cable you want as long as you put this at the end of it.

u/squrr1 · 3 pointsr/DIY

Good call. This one gets pretty good reviews.

u/randybruder · 3 pointsr/ios

I had the same problem, and the simple solution was a small USB device that blocks data so the phone only charges. When I connect my phone to my car's audio, it's over Bluetooth.

u/SerenestAzure · 3 pointsr/onebag

I carry data cables and a "USB condom" for charging from insecure sources.

u/saiyate · 3 pointsr/computers

Buy a USB Condom (not kidding).


u/giasrope · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Hey man, mind giving me a link to the USB C-A cable you got? I've tried googling it but all that I come up with was --> this and I'm really not sure if its the right one... Not that familiar with the different usb types there is.

u/nmork · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Even for those, can't you just use a USB-C to USB-A cable if you wanted to charge or connect to the front panel? Something like this for example?

(Genuinely asking, I've never had anything with USB-C before so not sure how it works)

u/AttemptedWit · 3 pointsr/nexus5x

In preparation for my 5x's arrival, I've ordered the following:

u/TransNOC · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

Deploy a Citrix or RDP redirect to his corporate PC over VPN VM for him to use with 2 factor authentication and a US-based certificate authority. That way he can travel with no corporate data in tow, where he might be forced to decrypt the laptop for foreign border agencies which are known to work with intelligence services. Since he will want to travel light, perhaps buy him a Macbook and don't forget power converters for Africa. Don't forget to deploy antivirus (with an uninstall password set) and filevault, even on Mac and make sure he cannot save the password in the RDP software. If you do go the Mac route, don't forget to deploy a password on the firmware as well. Don't give him local admin on the laptop but insert a local admin account for a backup he doesn't know exists unless told about in a troubleshooting session.

I hate Surface Pro's but they are such a bitch to tamper with (don't forget to also setup secure boot microsoft only, no USB boot allowed in the uefi firmware and set a password on it) that most attempts would be physically visible. Remember, give him a REALLY GOOD remote experience (Citrix works good over high latency / low bandwidth links) and he will want to comply with all of this.

Do not allow him under any circumstances to take an Android phone overseas. I highly recommend a iPhone with a heavy duty "Unicorn Beetle" case (check Amazon) and a USB charge only cable:

For everything else:

and send him with at least two of these: these should be inside his laptop bag and with him at all times. I recommend a backpack: North Face Borealis.

If he's going out of cell range, I recommend purchasing a Garmin Inreach and activating it for $65 a month. It will allow him to cheaply send and receive SMS messages via Iridum and a smartphone. Let him know that any communications over this is not secure whatsoever.

Run firmware updates on everything right before he leaves.

u/Weather · 3 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

Perhaps a bit. The only reason I mentioned SyncStop is that it's the most well-known of these types of devices. Other brands are available, including PortaPow and Plugable. Additionally, you could always simply make your own.

u/IUsedToBeACave · 3 pointsr/hacking

Thats why these exist. That being said it is more than likely fine.

u/bonesingyre · 3 pointsr/HTC10

The charger isn't compliant with the USB charging spec, not the cable. I bought this. It's pretty good and "Benson" approved

u/esip · 3 pointsr/nexus5x

I'm pretty happy with this one:

I'm pretty sure it's Benson approved.

I have no idea what's going with all the links in this thread. If you want this cable just search: iorange USB c

u/machoroboraza · 3 pointsr/oneplus

Check out this cable.It's 6 ft long and one of the sturdiest cables I have ever owned.

u/9baron · 3 pointsr/appletv

$5 more but this one also worked for me, via VM even: iOrange

with coupon: SlickDeal

u/goldenmonkey1 · 3 pointsr/Nexus

Also, as far as charges go, I bought the official 'Google' charger:

And then the following cables:

Anker 1m A to C cable:

iOrange 2m A to C cable:

It appears that only 1m cables will deliver USB 3.0 speeds. The phone doesn't do USB 3.0, but good to have for future proofing. The Google charger will be used at work, the charger that came with the phone plugged in by the couch. The 2M cable will be paired with a 'slow charging' brick (My Nexus 7 power adapter) and the 1M cable will be my multi-purpose one for my portable battery pack, or for the car. Should probably buy another 1M just to have it around.

u/ExplodingFist · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

My existing CV1 setup already had wiring for 4 sensors, 3 of which required active extension, so I tapped into the far one that went across the ceiling with the 10 foot USB-C Anker 3.0 cable recommended by Oculus, and it works flawlessly.

The visuals were excellent. For me this looks better than the Rift S (personally, since I have an IPD of 59, along with the beautiful OLED displays this has). I didn't notice any artifacts or compression when playing, but I do think this thing is sensitive to having a very good USB port, so results may vary.

The lower refresh rate is definitely noticeable compared to the CV1 and I played worse than usual in beat saber (on expert). The tracking is also obviously more limited than the CV1 with more than 2 sensors (which this would beat), especially in games like Echo VR, but I also had some issues with the S in that game when I tried it. This is comparing to a perfect 4 sensor setup with a $120 quad channel USB card, so it's not exactly fair.

You can't beat the simplicity this provides for just getting into PCVR.

Here is the link the the extension cable. It's cheaper than it was back when I got them for my sensors:

u/TorqTB · 3 pointsr/ValveIndex
u/OXIOXIOXI · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

MRTV got this 5M active extender working

He also plugged a 1M C to A cable in to connect it to the headset, total of 19 bucks. Does anyone know a longer cable I can plug into this extender? Like 2 or 3M? Just want to know before I order.

u/SpaceMonkeyNation · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

Lone Echo
Brass Tactics
Star Trek Bridge Crew
Elite Dangerous
Project Cars 2
Hellblade: Senua's Sacrifice VR Edition
Alien Isolation (Mother Mod)

Also, according to the pinned thread, this extension cable works:

I haven't tried it yet since I just ordered it, but others have verified that it works.

u/PM-ME-MEI-PICS · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

This has worked for me so far. Oculus immediately recognized it. Just had to restart the Quest each time I want to use Link.

u/22marks · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

After going through six other cables, including USB-C to C and USB-C to A, I can confirm the following works:

JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A

EDIT: Added to Link Hardware Poll

I can also confirm the followed didn't work for me (in a PCI-E USB-C adapter or the RXT2080 USB-C):

DIDN'T WORK - CableCreation USB C Cable 10ft, Braided USB-C 10ft

DIDN'T WORK: AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C 10ft

u/eastlibertarian · 3 pointsr/essential

I had the same exact problem--I also have a VW Golf. I bought this cable and it works like a charm: Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor

u/kittycatblues · 3 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

I have this Anker cable and can confirm it is good quality: Anker PowerLine USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5

u/r2001uk · 3 pointsr/Nexus6P

I bought this one and although it arrived faulty, Anker immediately sent me a replacement because their customer service is awesome.

The replacement is perfect.

u/cookiepolice · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

I ordered the cable /u/Devil_Vagina_Magic referenced earlier:

When I get it I'll report back if I'm getting the same issue with no data transfer when connected to a 3.0 port.

u/jhuck5 · 3 pointsr/AndroidAuto

Not sure if it will help, and don't have your phone, I have the Pixel 2 XL, but cables make a massive difference. Not 100% sure if the cable is your problem or the OS, but I do have the two similar Pioneer decks (2330NEX and 4200NEX). Make sure your firmware on the Pioneer is updated. The 2330NEX used to take minutes to connect to AA, and now it is under 2-3 seconds. If USB-C, this cable has worked well for me, and eliminate the same error message above:


u/ACrazyGerman · 3 pointsr/AndroidAuto

This is the Cable I bought that works great with my 2017 Subaru Impreza

u/benmarte · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Yes, its a USB-C to USB 3.0 anker cable that has velcro.

I purchased it from Amazon:

u/chaoszcat · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

Most (windows) laptops are equipped with the normal USB-A or USB 3.0. You need to buy a cable that has USB Type C to normal USB.

Any products with the same two ends are suitable. Here is just one example:

u/Talwyn_Wize · 2 pointsr/oculus

There are some things you could try out, if you haven't already.

  1. My most important point, choosing a "High/Ultimate Performance" or equivalent setting (use your best option) on your battery power. I shouldn't need to say this, but you get better performance with the powercable attached.

  2. Remember to deactivate USB selective suspend and do the same in your Device Manager, so that your computer doesn't hibernate or adjust USB power-settings. I know the OculusTrayTool does the same/similar, if you use it, but I've not been lucky enough to have that work when I need it to.

  3. Also, make sure you've removed as many USB-devices from your computer as possible. For example; external harddrives, mouse, keyboard, headset (if USB), even memory sticks, so that they don't draw power away from your USB channels. You might actually want some of these connected while you play, but try without first, to figure out whether or not it works. Your ports share channels, you see, so they are affected by each other.

  4. You probably don't want to go looking for further extension cables at this point, but I use these ones, and they work very well.

  5. Remember to update your USB drivers. Feel free to check your Asus website first, but Windows 10 might have new and better drivers, or the manufacturer of the chip could have even newer. There are ways to discover the manufacturer's name and model of your USB device in Device Manager, if you know where to look. Google it. ;) Mind you, keep your Asus drivers ready as backup, because the computer might not "officially" support it, though it's easy to roll back drivers. After driver-update, you might have to repeat option [2].

  6. If you have software that controls USB-ports to an extent (like apps looking for USB devices), disabling them could help, but you need to restart and ensure they don't start automatically again. There're some split opinions out there on whether or not it helps, but I'm including it just in case.

    I advise you to restart your computer after you've done your adjustments and connected your Rift, so that the computer will prioritize the USB power-draw correctly on startup.

    Chances are you've tried these options already, but if not, give them a try. Unfortunately, I can't think of any other alternatives. The VR-tests I can find of your laptop seem to have been done without extensions. Feel free to contact Asus support - they might have some recommendations, as I doubt you'll be the first with the issue.

    Good luck!

u/Honda_TypeR · 2 pointsr/oculus

So I had this issue with rift on and off for a year

My end game solution, after wasting tons of money on failed solutions, was buying an 4 independent bus usb 3.0 pcie expansion board (plugged into pcie 16x slot)

I tried a cheap 1 usb bus cards with 4 USB ports and it just is too much strain for 1 bus with all these cameras plus everything else on my PC. Even with that extra bus on that expansion card it’s simply not enough.

what finally worked was the 4 independent 3.0 buses on that card.

I have 3 rift cameras and the headset plugged into the card each one with a dedicated usb bus and none of on my mobo

I’m on mobile at the moment but lemme try to find the link.. if I can’t it was from Startech

Here think this is it

Make sure you select quad bus or you will be wasting your time.

The last part of this usb disconnect drama for me was a proper usb 3.0 repeater extension cable (on my 3rd and furtherest rear camera). I did a lot of buying and experimenting with these too but this one is the one that finally played nice with rift

After this combo I now finally have flawless no random disconnect usage of my rift

Took a damn year to sort all this out.

I hope it helps

u/bushmaster2000 · 2 pointsr/oculus

For the basic kid if you have 3 empty USB3s and one empty USB2, the basic kit will work. However if you want to expand to mroe sensors you should get yourself a PCIe expansion card for sure.


I would say you will most likely need extension cables but really only you can tell. Depends on where your computer is in relation to where you want to put sensors but typically you'll need extensions for at least the rear sensor. For the basic kit you'll want the sensors diagonally across your play space from each other for 360 degree tracking most likely.


This is what I use on the sensors

and this is what i use on the hMd


But if you start extending the HMD cable you'll also need a repeater

And then just a good quality longer HDMI cable (not an extension) like this



u/DarKbaldness · 2 pointsr/oculus

Ah a good question. I was using the included extended (2.0) but switched to using 2x CableCreation USB 3 extension cables

If there are any specific tests or benchmarks you’d like me to run I am open to help :)

u/I_wish_I_was_a_robot · 2 pointsr/oculus

No. This is what you need: CableCreation (Long 16FT) Super Speed Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB Male to Female Repeater Cable with Signal Booster for Oculus Rift,Xbox,PS4 and More, Black

u/Spaceguy5 · 2 pointsr/hotas

Your mileage will vary based on your computer hardware but personally I'm using an unpowered cheapo hub that supports USB 2.0 from Wal-Mart
(which only has my Warthog throttle + stick + TRP pedals plugged in), and I'm using a long USB 3.0 extension that has a repeater (which was leftover from my Oculus setup. My flight sim setup is too far from my desktop to reach). It's plugged into a USB 3.0 port on my computer, as 3.0 supports a higher current draw. Have had zero issues so far, though I plan to upgrade to a cheapo 3.0 hub (only using the 2.0 temporarily as I had it laying around).

If you have an unpowered hub laying around, it's worth trying. But if you want a guarantee of no issues (especially if your computer power supply is on a tight margin), a powered hub may be the way to go.

If you're in no hurry and have stores nearby with good return policies, you could even buy a cheap unpowered and return it if it doesn't work.

u/sekazi · 2 pointsr/oculus

I am using these USB 3 Active Extension Cables. It gives you an extra 16 ft. I have my sensors mounted to the ceiling so I just run the cable across the ceiling using screw eyes and s-biners.

u/awalkingspastic · 2 pointsr/oculus

does anyone know if these would work as well for the sensor?

u/Godit82 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I had a similar problem with my rooms about 10' apart and had to move my PC to the VR space and running extensions back to my desk for my monitor and peripherals.

I got a powered USB hub mounted on my desk with a 16' active USB 3.0 extension plugged into the back of the PC down the hall. I wanted 3.0 because I am using that Ethernet port on the USB hub too. I also got a 15ft DVI extension for the monitor so I ended up with only have two cables to hide in the hallway. The cable clips aren't invisible but they are at least neat and clean. The 16' of cable for 10' of hallway was just enough length so make sure you get enough to make a few turns or go up and down walls.

u/sexysausage · 2 pointsr/oculus

Check this out: CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension ...

It extends the sensor as USB 3.0 without issues.

u/probesys · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

The officially recommended one, plus this extension:

u/tveith · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Buy an active extender, then you'll have 22 feet!!

CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black

u/DraygonZero · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Maybe, but I refunded the UGreen and got the CableCreation extender instead. It works, but it doesn't have added power so it won't charge as well. Still works for me though!If the Ugreen doesn't work for others, try this one:

Edit: Using it with the 10ft Anker Powerline USB3.0 cable recommended by Oculus, btw.

u/Slowpc · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I got my cable in and grabbed one of my Cable Creations 3.0 5m cables out of the closet and it seems to be working fine. Got to soften up this anker cable and get some more velcro tiedowns but it worked great in some pavlov matches.


u/Zundrel · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

If you intend to do that, you'd likely need an active USB extension cable such as

u/Ajedi32 · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

If you want to go much longer than 3m you're probably gonna need an active extension cable. This 5m one works, according to tests by some other users:

Then you can plug it into a shorter A-to-C cable for even more length.

u/br0squit0 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I am using a 16 ft. USB 3.0 active adapter and also have a 6 ft. USB 3.0 (non active) plugged into the same sensor (totaling in 22 ft.) no issues and shows up as USB 3.0 on Oculus Home.

These are the ones I used:

u/Psycold · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

I've used both of these cables to successfully extend my Vive and Index


Display port extension:


USB 3.0 extension:

u/Dentifrice · 2 pointsr/oculus

be sure to use an ACTIVE usb extension.

Bought this, works like a charm :

u/alether2 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

Exactly. I'm using this 16ft cable along with an additional 1.5ft male to male cable (in order to have a male connecter on end to plug into vive link box):

My setup is like this
PC > 1.5ft USB 3.0 male to male > 16ft active USB 3.0 Extension > Vive Link Box > Odyssey+

Works flawlessly. No issues whatsoever. Only thing is you have to power cycle the link box after you plug the Odyssey in otherwise it won't be detected.

u/FearTheTaswegian · 2 pointsr/oculus

No problem. Best stick to the cables & cards etc in the FAQ here if you can, especially if using long cables at the usb max lengths. FWIW my more distant two sensors are fed by a single active 5m USB3 cable

Into a powered USB3 hub

& are the only thing on that particular usb controller.

u/LoneKrafayis · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would get a USB wireless dongle, USB extension, and a directional antenna. To make this work, the dongle must have a removable antenna. If shipping is not an expense, I would buy step-by-step, starting with the dongle, then extension, finally the antenna (and antenna mounting solution).

I have no personal experience with this equipment. It was chosen because of features (like replaceable antennas) and Amazon reviews.

Alfa AWUS036AC Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB Adapter With 2x Dual-Band (2.4GHz / 5GHz) external antenna for Extreme Distance Connection - Up to 300 Mbps - USB 3.0 - AC1200 Wireless chip - USB desktop Dock Included

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

Alfa APA-M25 dual band 2.4GHz/5GHz 10dBi high gain directional indoor panel antenna with RP-SMA connector (compare to Asus WL-ANT-157)

All together, this is 95 CAD, but I expect the first item will solve the problem. If you do get the high-gain antenna, try it as a replacement of each of the side antennas on the USB dongle. This is because one antenna might be more important to the device then the other.

u/inantbh · 2 pointsr/oculus

PSA: I was having issues with the sensor constantly disconnecting using the OP's active cable and Oculus' recommended Intateck card. Just purchased the CableCreation extension after reading this post and it seems to have solved my problem.

u/TayoEXE · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Just a reminder, you need a VR-ready PC to play PC VR games, so it needs to be a powerful gaming PC.

And you don't have to cancel your Anker cable necessarily. There are extensions you can get that make up for the length until the official Link cable comes out. I've heard from several people this one works for example.

That one will add 16 extra feet for a total of 22 feet for yours. And it's quite cheap.

u/ZepharusCMG · 2 pointsr/oculus

I use my Rift about 10 ft from my PC so I purchased the recommended cable and PCIe card. Only needed if youre playing away from you main PC


u/wwm0nkey · 2 pointsr/halo
u/Tequila-M0ckingbird · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Wanted to make a quick post - using the Anker recommended cable (3M).
I tried the AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable along with Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable - Both 3M - neither worked.

Finally, I tried CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT) - THIS WORKS, and it's way longer than the others.

u/HumbertKing · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I am using this one:

Also people are having luck with this:

This is my setup:

PC (Asus ROG STRIX Z390-I + EVGA RTX 2080 XC)

v (5m USB 3 active cable) (USB 3 Hub) (3m USB-c 3.1 cable) (USB-c 90 adapter)



u/NDubbaYa · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Seems kinda janky. Some games run well and uh some really do not lol

Not faulting anything since well AMD isn't supported to begin with, and well it's a beta that JUST came out, but I'm hoping that it gets ironed out as the beta goes along. Really see the potential and it could be a great thing once it all gets sorted out.

Oh I should probably list specs? We're all probably running around trying to figure out exactly what cable to get so figured it'd help posting em.

GPU: PowerColor Red Dragon RX 5700

CPU: Ryzen 2600 OC'd to 4.1

Cable: JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A Charging Data Cable [Heavy Duty Nylon Braided] for iPad Pro 12.9/11 Galaxy S10 S9 Note 10+ 10 9 Tab S4 Nintendo Switch (Black)

Extender (which is just for extra length both cables work): CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black

u/Kesnei · 2 pointsr/oculus

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card ( Sensor ( - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension ( - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension ( - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable ( - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

u/Eisenmeower · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I grabbed this one and it works perfectly.

I even had a 6ft 3.0 non avtive extension and they're suprisingly playing well together at 16ft total. :)

Edit: oh wow it was 14.99 when I ordered it yesterday morning. Guess they upped the price with demand :(

u/fuseyuk · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I can confirm this combination works for me:

JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A Charging Data Cable [Heavy Duty Nylon Braided]

Maxhood USB C Type C Male to Female Adapter, Right & Left Angled 90 Degree USB-C USB 3.1

and then I tried the Active USB 3.0 repeater I bought for the Rift a couple of years ago and it worked!

UGREEN USB Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Male to Female Active Repeater Cable with Signal Amplifier

u/mdriftmeyer · 2 pointsr/Logic_Studio

Ditch the default USB cable by Focusrite. I have the Scarlett 2i2 and the Clarett 4Pre USB. I put the Scarlett to bed the moment the Clarett arrived. The cables for both are absolute junk.


Buy this one:


That cable no longer gives me any reset message notifications for Midi. It's been smooth sailing ever since.

u/Crab_Spy · 2 pointsr/nintendo

Just get a third party USB-A to USB-C cable from a reputable brand.

I have this one from Anker and it's good.

u/burdobarde · 2 pointsr/nexus5x

I just searched "nexus 5x usb cable" on amazon and it was the first result. It allows me to plug my device directly to my PC, or chargers like the Nexus 6 one I mentioned.

u/poofyhairguy · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I have used my Anker one before to charge it.

u/havensk · 2 pointsr/oneplus

It needs to be a USB-C cable. Just make sure you check out the Benson Leung USB-C approved chart before you buy any new ones. A lot of USB-C cables out there might cause harm to your phone.

If it helps I picked up this cable and this charger and they work great together and charge pretty fast. Nowhere near as fast as DASH but that's fine.

u/t1m0thyj · 2 pointsr/Moto_Z

I'd recommend Anker for USB cables, they can be a bit pricey but IMO it's worthwhile because I've had bad experiences with cheap cables. They make USB-C to USB 3.0 cables like this one.

u/Souloni · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've already purchased several USB-C cables and power bricks in anticipation for the Switch. Went Anker for their manufacturing quality, so it wasn't the cheapest, but the fact that it will be more common in the coming years made me feel less skittish about investing in it.

I hate the fact that my 3DS is so difficult to charge, and I just know that solving that issue will greatly improve my love for the consoles.


In case anyone is interested, I purchased this charger as it is 2.4 amps per port, which is close to what the Switch spec is. Essentially it is enough to charge the console in a timely fashion in a room away from the dock.
I purchased this cable since flexibility is more important when gaming plugged in versus the external protection that braiding provides.

u/TheKingj2 · 2 pointsr/nexus5x

Yes, The Nexus 5x port is USB 2.0. You can use 2.0 cables with no issues, as they should perform equally well on the 5x. I find that since USB C is also new tech, they are marketing largely to macbooks with USB 3.1 compatible USB C ports. You might not find significant price differences between 2.0 and 3.0 cables. These Anker cables are really nice, Benson Leung approved, and not super expensive, while being 3.0 cables (

u/jcozac · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

Double reply so you get a notification about this.

Using an old car charger (2.4A) with a proper USB-A -> USB-C 3.0 cable (this one charged my phone from 60% to 100% in roughly 1 hour. The phone never said "charging rapidly" either, so you're not getting Power Delivery with that. I am buying a proper USB-C car charger later this week, I can DM you with an update on that.

Edit: Adding this as well in case someone else is looking for this info, but this what I dm'd OP:

Alright so I bought this cable: and this car charger

They both work great, fast charging and everything.

For what it's worth, this is also a good power bank:

u/JortsForSale · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I have a Kenwood DMX7705S with a Pixel 1 and don't have any issues. The best advice I could give would be to make sure you have a high quality USB 3 cable. There are a number of USB 3 cables out there that work fine for charging but have issues with the more data intensive operations. I am using this one - and have had no issues.

Good luck!

u/kiwiandapple · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

That Game Boy Player would absolutely not work, I mean.. it would allow you to play gameboy games, but you need to have the physical game disks.

It won't allow you to play WoW or something like that.


If you can paint out your vision?
I don't really understand much of what you have in mind. I would likely advise against the "roof". This will make it very complicated and also pretty difficult, based on the

  • GameCube front picture
  • GameCube rear picture
  • GameCube rear picture with mini motherboard inside


    You want to place this adapter inside it? That's possible when you use an internal USB adapter cable like that one.
    But again, space is the big issue.

    I looked at the BRIX as best as I could since that seems to be the best & smallest option you've got. Here is the inside of it. It's tiny, but it also got 2 small fans next to it, to keep the CPU & GPU cool under load. Without those fans, the temperatures of both the CPU and GPU will not stay in check..
    Those fans are also pretty annoyingly loud.

    You could perhaps find replacements for these fans, to get the noise down. It are 40x40mm fans, which Noctua also produces. These fans will be a lot more silent, but I think that they might not push enough air.. Especially because of the fact that the GameCube is not extremely well ventilated. This is something you'll have to likely test out yourself.
    This Sycthe fan is 10mm thicker but also pushes a bit more air compared to the Noctua. It also is a bit louder (on paper) compared to it because of it.

    Do you already have the GameCube with you? If so, it's time to pull out a venier caliper and start measuring. You really need to know everything.
    Put it on a piece of paper or excel document or something.


    You could even simply consider to use the program SketchUp. It's a free program that allows you to design whatever you want. I would recommend to at least have a look at some beginners guides so that you can do the very basic things, without going crazy.

    You can use this to sketch out and design this whole thing from the ground up in software, before you start to even touch the GameCube in real life. To see if it would actually fit or just to see how much space you would have. SketchUp got a lot of GameCubes in it's 3D warehouse. But they're all in different sizes and I don't think anyone is actually in the right scale.
    The closest one that's correct in terms of actual size / scale is that tiny one in the middle.
u/Cozmo85 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Dunno if freenas benefits from usb 3. If it does not you can get one of these for a completely internal install of your flash drive.

u/zackofalltrades · 2 pointsr/Amd

If you want it to be entirely internal, buy a cable similar to this:

Then make sure to route it so that the dongle is outside of the metal area of the case (in the front panel if plastic, or near a glass window), to not block the radio.

u/cf18 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Aren't bluetooth dongle really small already?

If the USB2 header on the motherboard is unused you can use this:

But both USB2 & 3 are probably used since most cases have both ports.

u/Ken0201 · 2 pointsr/OpenMediaVault

Flash drives and SSD's are almost exactly the same technology. There is really very little difference in the two if you buy a quality flash drive. I use the flash memory plugin on my SSD. I'm not sure it's 100% required since most SSD's support TRIM, but it doesn't hurt anything.

If you don't want to have your flash drive hanging outside the case.. and you have an internal motherboard header.. you can get a cable to plug the flash drive right into the header.... Obviously you would probably lose an external USB port, but it would protect against someone just snatching the flash drive out of your NAS. That is always my chief concern with external flash drives for the OS. To easy for someone to be looking for a flash drive, "find" the one on your server, then when windows can't write to it, formatting it and maybe not even realize what they done (if they aren't tech savvy)

For USB 2.0

For USB 3.0 Headers

u/RyanYags · 2 pointsr/battlestations

That is a great idea! Never thought of that. Is this what you are referring to?

u/worldlybedouin · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You mean something like this?

Here's the Google search I used.

u/AdversarialPossum42 · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

Yes! As long as the BIOS will support booting from USB. Some older machines might not.

You could maybe use an adapter to put a thumb drive inside the case:

Heck, it might also have an IDE controller, so you could run the OS off IDE and storage off SATA.

u/trackdrew · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Anergos · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Damage it? How? Is it a lan rig?

Also are you more concerned about how the case looks from behind than the cable mess that will be added inside the case?

Anyway it's your decision, you can get something like this.

u/OhHappyDagger · 2 pointsr/arduino

If you have extra USB headers on your motherboard I would get a USB port internally instead of using Molex. This will allow you to power and program the Arduino/LED strip. Something like this,

u/_Arion_ · 2 pointsr/battlestations

So I see you're using that usb dongle for your internet. I feel ya, I've got one too, and it's not only unsightly but annoying to lug around when moving. I have yet to purchase this but I feel it'd be nice to have so I can hide the dongle in my case. It also helps because it frees up more usb space on your front I/O. just a thought I'v been having lately about my setup.

u/Arudinne · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Why go to all that trouble when you buy an adapter for like $4?

u/Kezika · 2 pointsr/freenas

> -First question involves booting it and running off a flash drive. While this feels like salvation in a lot of ways in contrast to dedicating a boot drive, my concerns are this: How would I go about 'booting' the USB drive from internally in the system? This would come from avoiding a physical environment of tampering/nudging/whatever? I understand after the initial boot, writes to the flash happens only through configuring, but it seems odd to me that a critical piece of the setup is outwardly accessible to whomever in a non-lockdown interface like a USB port.

Some motherboards, especially with server motherboards will have an onboard USB port. Mine has one and that is where one of my two boot USBs is.

Another option you can do is a SATADOM, although you lose a SATA port to this, but depending on your environment may be worth it.

Third option if you want would be to take the USB header on the motherboard that you would usually plug the front panel USB ports to and get something like this to connect to it and then leave the output inside the case:

u/BCMM · 2 pointsr/linux

As explained elsewhere in the thread, USB ports do have a bandwidth limit - you can't just use hubs to run an infinite number of devices simultaneously off a single port. Think of how much video data needs to flow through that single cable at the base of the Christmas tree every second...

Anyway, in response to your edit: yes, running a cable from the motherboard header may indeed help. You need more actual USB host controllers, not just more sockets, and the unused headers on your motherboard may provide that. No point installing additional USB controllers on a PCIe slot if you aren't making full use of the controllers on the motherboard.

Now, I don't know the internal configuration of your motherboard; there might be whole controllers you aren't using and there might just be an on-board hub. lsusb -t can help with that, as it will show you if there are any totally empty buses.

In case you didn't know, the header on the motherboard will use a different type of connector, and you'll need an adaptor a bit like this, or this if you want to make it neat. I'm not necessarily recommending those specific products, just showing you what they should look like. Note the different styles of header connector for USB2 and USB3.

Each header should support two USB ports without using any hubs, so with your motherboard you can gain six extra ports beyond those on the rear IO panel.

However, is there any chance of you telling us what you are ultimately trying to achieve here? I'm getting the feeling there might be an easier way...

u/orangedrink888 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Here are the links. The LED strip is a bit different but it is almost the same. You can control the colors on the litle dongle connected to it. As for USB power to the LEDS, there should be an option in your motherboard's BIOS to turn of USB power when you shutdown. Most motherboards today have that option.

u/Gumby420 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could use something like this. I haven't heard of USB to SATA and even if there was you'd be limited by your flash drives transfer speeds.

EDIT: Oops, didn't see the laptop comment. The thing I posted won't work :/

u/blacketj · 2 pointsr/buildapc

well if you have an open USB 2.0 header, you can use one of these to make an internal port.

If you don't have an open header, then you could add an internal USB port with a PCI or PCIe card.

u/BadVoices · 2 pointsr/homelab

Transcend and PNY used to make them, called Internal USB Flash Module. Model fro the transcend was UFM-H. They are really too small to use these days, and expensive.

Is a cheaper, better replacement (specifically, those cruzer fits are known to be very good.)

u/m00nkeh · 2 pointsr/gaming

Might be too late for this, but I use the pictured controller dongle.

I recently bought one of these internal USB port adapters to connect it inside my case, and stuck it to the inside wall with velcro. Since my controller is already connected to it, theres no issues with is losing sync or anything. I might change my tune if I begin to have disconnection issues, but for now it seems like a good solution.

EDIT: The point being because of its size I'm always worried I'll accidentally snap it by brushing past my pc or something. With it secured inside the PC, that can't happen.

u/Nic_the_Burner · 2 pointsr/snes

I use one of these.

Setup is Japanese though, so here's a translation.

Edit: I should mention there's a noticeable delay, maybe 1/3 of a second on the capture. So I wouldn't recommend playing off the capture alone. You'd need to split it to a display.

u/Captobvious789 · 2 pointsr/SSBPM

I tried that exact setup with the same equipment. I only tested it with Melee but the results were not good. Older 3D games do not upscale well. I honestly regret not going with the elgato HD for PM streaming, it can't do 1080p60fps but it can do composite/svideo/component connections. Save your money or buy a gv-usb2 for svideo capturing.

u/sakatana · 2 pointsr/speedrun

My recommendation would be to throw down a bit of money and get a good usb capture card, some RCA Splitters, extra cables and a TV or Monitor that has inputs. Total cost should be around $50 on Amazon before the TV/Monitor. The analog signal only degrades slightly (can barely tell on a CRT or stream) and is super easy to set up. There are cheaper options out there but I wouldn't recommend using them - a few of the USB capture cards I have seen that are cheaper than the GV-USB2 don't have drives that work passed windows 7, and even on Win7 they are super janky to get working. The GV-USB2 has a bit of lag when going into OBS so I wouldn't recommend playing straight off of it, hence the splitters. An alternative capture card would be a Dazzle, but I have heard multiple people having issues with audio on those, your mileage may vary regardless of which option you go for.

There are also more expensive options such as getting an internal card but you will probably be stuck with having to get one for digital or one for analog at an increased price.

u/astrnght_mike_dexter · 2 pointsr/SSBM

Okay you basically have two good options on that budget. You can get a GV-USB2 for about $30 and have a really easy setup with your wii (plug the S video in to the capture card and the yellow cable in to the TV, split the audio, and you're done), or you can get a black magic intensity shuttle which allows you to capture 480p video and will get you way better capture quality and is a little more complicated to set up.

Composite capture card example

BMI Shuttle example

This stuff is complicated so feel free to ask me more questions.

u/_Louis__ · 2 pointsr/Gamecube

It'd probably be cheaper to just buy a capture card and play it off Amarec on your computer, if you don't have a TV. Then you'll have a larger screen to play on!

GameCubes are like $25, cables should be $5 each, controllers are $20. A good first party memory card is like $10.

This is the capture card I use. If you do this I'd suggest an s-video cable because the picture quality is worth it.

u/Zenithiel · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I'm going through some old family tapes myself and though I would share what I'm doing.
I'm totally not sure this is the best way to do it, because there seems to always be a better way to squeeze more quality out of it the more I look, but what I did is use a capture card like this:

Some people buy really good old VCRs with time based correction, but that is just out of my league at the moment, in both money and effort, and I'm happy with the quality I have so far.

I personally capture it using virtualdub with the lagorith lossless codec, though I think there are better ones out there that require more processing power. The files still tend to be quite huge though as raw files tend to be I think. I then use Staxrip to finish it up by trimming it up and applying QTGMC, which is supposedly a very high quality deinterlacer that bumps it up to 59.98 fps, and it denoises the video fairly well too. At the end of this process I have a decent MP4 that I can watch and relive some memories.

At the end of the day though, there is only so much you can do with VHS, and this is just the culmination of me spending way too much time scouring the internet for ways to preserve VHS footage. Its probably not the best way to do it, as I'm continuously finding posts that say one way is better, some its evidence based, some of its subjective. Its a huge headache, depending on how far you want to jump down the rabbit hole, but I hope this helps you if you just want to see how some else has done it. If anybody has any questions, or has found a better and simpler way of doing it let me know though! Still learning. This video got me started

u/Zonak · 2 pointsr/SSBM

GV-USB2 is a really solid little device for how cheap it is. Just pair it with the Monoprice Wii S-Video Cable and you'll be good to go. You can plug the S-video end into the capture card and the composite video into the TV. solid capture setup for only ~$40

EDIT - you should also get some RCA piggy back cables so you can run the audio to both the capture card and the tv

u/Linkums · 2 pointsr/nintendo

I recorded it straight from the N64 with an I-O Data GV USB2 capture device. I'm glad you liked the video. :D

u/mobuco · 2 pointsr/Tetris

This is the one I use, but any av to usb would work.

You do need one splitter at least for the video to go to both the crt and the capture card. You can just have the sound from the TV (that's what I have on my stream) or you can do another splitter like in the drawing above.

u/Myperson54 · 2 pointsr/speedrun

To add to the other two suggestions, I'll add what I believe are two far better solutions: The GV-USB2 and USB3HDCAP

The GV-USB2 is a USB dongle-style capture card that only captures composite/RCA video and S-video, which is the best you'll get from the Gamecube without expensive cables. It's about $35 USD.

The Startech USB3HDCAP is more expensive, but it will capture HDMI for newer consoles and PCs, as well as composite, S-Video, Component (the best video signal out of a Wii and easy to get cables for), and even RGB. It's probably the best quality card there is at its price and it's offered me a far better user experience than Elgato's devices have for me. I also know PJ DiCesare uses it for his runs and he has excellent capture quality. It's currently on sale for $182.

Importantly, both will capture video at 60fps which I'm not convinced the standard def EZcap will do, and without the added noise and delay I find Elgato devices tend to add.

Hopefully this helps.

u/myserval · 2 pointsr/Twitch

A great way to do it would to be to use an old capture device like this:

It has essentially no lag so you could play it in your streaming software, but if you really wanna get down and dirty with some old games, you could get a video splitter along with that and plug it into an old monitor, haha, but I imagine you won't be going pro neccicarily with a cheap sponegbob plug and play game - that being said, that's a rad niche you've got there, sounds like it'd be a really fun time!

u/Sylant · 2 pointsr/n64

Buy a gv-usb2 , #1 recommended capture device for N64 speedrunners( also great for converting VCR, great for SNES, havnt tried GC yet with it, but others say its good for it too), only problem, all in Japanese. But there are plenty of English tutorials and installation is simple. You can capture directly in OBS or use the included software capture window. Hope that helps.

u/darkjackd · 2 pointsr/SSBM

As a recent owner of an easycap I couldn't recommend against it enough. Mine was a pain to setup and the quality went from bad to really glitchy and awful in the span of a day. I think the dazzle is supposed to be okay, and I know that Cosmowright uses this for his sd capture.
I think that the dazzle and that both do 60fps capture while the easycap does not

u/WhiskySteak · 2 pointsr/speedrun
u/TheTriggerOfSol · 2 pointsr/crtgaming

Just grab an io-data GV-USB2, it's decent and has S-Video in. Good cheap option for streaming, and the quality is good enough if you're doing 720p and below. Since you said you're not taking streaming seriously yet, I don't see why you would spend more than $35: - combine that with a component splitter/amplifier and a component-to-SVideo converter, and you're golden.

Since your gameplay will be on a CRT, you won't have to worry about input lag for the stream.

There's also this for $50 that does component video, but I can't personally vouch for it because I'm just an SVideo pleb.

u/JiminyWillikerz · 2 pointsr/wiiu

You could also use a USB Y cable. That way it draws power from the second USB port as well. Just make sure it is the right one that will fit the port on your hard drive.

u/StringBoi · 2 pointsr/wiiu

I bought this drive along with a USB Y Cable to power it properly. It would not work with the single USB that came with it....not enough power, the Y cable fixed that.

u/Kilvoctu · 2 pointsr/smashbros

Couldn't find information on Nintendo's site, but after reading your description, I'm guessing it's something like this for the mentioned drive?

u/Kammuller · 2 pointsr/wiiu
u/wiithewalrus · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

Hey, looked into the product you linked to, but I have a quick question.

The one you linked has a microUSB (which I would have to stick into the hard drive). Thing is, my hard drive doesn't have a microUSB, it has an extended version, like the one here:

So the one I found LOOKs like a better choice, except that this one needs two USB 3 when I only have 2.0. Would it still get enough juice from my laptop?

u/SmegmaChicken · 2 pointsr/WiiHacks

Given you showed what model you bought that isn't the right cable due to being a fat usb port and not a y-cable port.

This is the correct one.

u/zgrav · 2 pointsr/wiiu

You need a USB Y cable, something like this

u/erragodofmayhem · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like the drive isn't always getting enough power (USB 2 power < USB 3 power) - because compatibility issues between the 2 basically shouldn't happen unless the device has extra drivers it needs.

I haven't read you mention the size of the passport, but I see this regularly with any external drive over 1TB.

Sometimes, the issue is the USB cable itself, not passing on the power as efficiently as before. Often the drive will still seem to start up and spin, but simply doesn't get all the juice it needs to "boot up" all the way.

When a drive isn't getting enough power, a common occurrence is a soft clicking sound because the plates' headers keep alternating between "Read mode" and "idle mode".

Possible solutions:

  • Replace the USB cable. If you only have "cheap ones", try buying a higher quality name brand cable. This might give the drive enough power over USB 2

  • Ezramore made a good suggestion with the USB Y cable, which lets you plug in 2 USB's into the computer for some extra power. I would not suggest trying to make one yourself, you'll easily run into the same "lack of power" issue (unless you're just really good with wiring)

  • It could be the contacts of the enclosure not passing the power through properly (when it's on an underpowered USB 2 port) - You could consider removing the bare drive from the passport enclosure and installing it into an empty enclosure. At this point you could also consider getting an enclosure with its own PSU since it might be the drive itself trying to pull too much power
u/shr1ke · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Spinning all the time? Not a problem. Constantly starting up/hibernating? That could definitely be a problem.

The problem you may be thinking of was with older spec USB (usually on ports on the front of a PC case) and older more power-hungry 2.5" drives.

Older 2.5" external drives would come with a USB "Y" cable which would plug into 2 ports on the host machine - one to provide power and the other for power & data transfer.

Older (USB 2.0 and before) ports had a max amperage of 500mA (and some provided even less than this). USB 3.0 specs call for 900mA @ 5V which should be enough juice to power an external hard drive.

This article on a HGST Travelstar (which, incidentally, is probably the same drive OP's using) shows some important specs:

>Power requirements:
Startup (peak, max) 5.5W
Read/Write (avg) 1.8W
Low Power Idle 1.0W
Performance Idle 1.7W

So we know the power requirements of the drive. How about the USB ports? We know the USB 3.0 specs (from above: 0.9A @ 5V), so some high school calculations using I(current, amps) = P(power, watts) / V(voltage) rearranged to P=IV gives us 4.5W.

Which is more than enough to power an external 2.5" drive while spinning. For Peak power draw it's a watt less, but should be fine once started. The motherboard/port can handle that briefly.

Making it even less likely that there's not enough juice for the drive is that I don't have the issue, yet I'm using a functionally identical setup by having a HGST Touro S plugged into my Xbox One with no problems at all. That's the same drive as well.

tl;dr: it's not the ports or the drive (unless they're faulty
). Could be the enclosure. Can try a USB Y cable to check, I guess...

*Edit: Added a word and caveat for faulty port/drive.

u/2Little2LateTiger · 2 pointsr/wiiu

I use

and I got a Y cable so that the power draw isn't a issue.

It's small and I love that I got this thing to death. Being able to just download a game when I want it and not worry about space has been great.

u/GoldenShadowGS · 2 pointsr/wiiu

I just bought these three items to expand my Wii U storage. It works great! Load times are marginally faster in Smash
Internal memory 37.7sec load time
SSD 35.6sec load time

External drive enclosure


USB Y-cable

u/rjung · 2 pointsr/wiiu

To be honest, just about any external hard drive you get should be fine. The price difference between a 1TB and a 2TB is so small that it shouldn't be a factor.

I got one of the WD Passports and it works great. It doesn't use external power, just a USB 3.0 cable, but I got a USB Y-adaptor from Amazon and haven't had any issues.

u/jsdeprey · 2 pointsr/oculus

The active extender I have does not require a wall wart at all, they use the USB power on the cable to basically add another hub to regen power on the line back. Some do have the option to plug in a wall wart, but the one I have and many I see on Amazon do not need a wall wart at all.

This one says it does not need the power adapter unless you are connecting multiple of these cables together I guess, and your PC supplies enough power to the extender its self.

I lot of the ones over 20' seem to be USB 2.0 which should still work. It may be best to have the wall wart so you know the camera is getting good power though, maybe get one that allows you to connect the wall wart optionally and see how it does without it?

I currently am using a 16' USB 3.0 cable that seemed to power my camera fine.

u/clamchoda · 2 pointsr/Vive

Things to do while your waiting.

u/johnnybags · 2 pointsr/oculus

You can use an active usb 3.0 extension cable for longer distances.

Edit: By active, i don't mean an ethernet conversion. I mean something like this

u/Vyviel · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

There was a thread here exactly the same as this one today and I replied there that I tested one of those cables with no issues on my PC when my amazon basics one didnt work at all. Here you go 12 hours ago someone posted exactly the same thing you did =P

This is the cable I used.

Seems it varies by PC though as it worked fine in my USB 3.1 port and the amazon basics would just connect and disconnect constantly but never allow the headset to work. Gave one of the long -120342834034etc errors.

u/Xenolith234 · 2 pointsr/oculus

If you have the room/ability, I'd mount the sensors on the ceiling or corners of the room. I got two (VideoSecu 2 Pack 2-6 inch Metal Wall Ceiling Mounts Adjustable Pan Tilt Video Camera Mounting Brackets to mount them cheaply and securely, and three (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet Purchasing a third sensor nets you a USB extension cable, and I also got an HDMI extension cable to give my Rift some extra room. Sorry for all the links! The ceiling setup gives me pretty flawless tracking.

u/TheDarkSwordsman · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs

I dual boot Ubuntu 18.04 with Windows 10 and have an Oculus Rift.

I really just use Windows for gaming, and it takes make a minute to get over there. I mean, to me it's not a huge hassle.

If I were you, if it's not too out of the ordinary for you to ask, ask his thoughts on dual booting and using a Windows 10 for gaming. If he says it's not a bad idea, and he REALLY wants the headset, I would highly suggest getting it. Worse comes to worst, if he doesn't want it before he opens it, you can simply refund it and get another gift.

I recommend getting the rift with a third sensor, as well as an HDMI extender and USB 3 Active cable. It'll run up your costs to about $530-$550 after tax, but the third sensor is essential if you want the tracking to work well.

Edit: This is the active cable I got that I have not tested yet. I will return with a response, just remind me if I don't have it up by tomorrow afternoon.

And this HDMI female to female looks good paired with this HDMI cable.

If you have any other questions just let me know. I'll try to help out best I can.

u/Shabbypenguin · 2 pointsr/oculus

i use these on my rift to have my desktop in the office and rift in my garage. as for DP, no clue. i use

and for the hdmi, i imagine something similar would work for rift s

u/SharkOnGames · 2 pointsr/oculus

I bought 6ft extensions for the headset on recommendation from the Oculus Wiki here on reddit, I also have a GTX 1080, so far so good.

USB 3.0 6ft extension

[HDMI 6ft extension]

I then used twisty ties to bind the new extension cables together so I don't trip over them.

EDIT: I also bought a 16.4ft USB 3.0 extension for one of my sensors, which also works great (plugged into USB 2.0). Worth noting, this sensor is also extended using the included usb extension that came with the Oculus Rift/touch controller boxes. So it has 2 extensions on it and it still works.

EDIT 2: Fixed the HDMI link

u/literal-hitler · 2 pointsr/oneplus

I generally like Anker. Just don't be disappointed if it doesn't charge at maximum speed at longer lengths, the pixies get too tired.

u/reputablepanda · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8
u/HaoBianTai · 2 pointsr/htc

Assuming you have a phone with a USB-C port (unlike OP), the answer is... probably.

Make sure you find a quality, thick cable. I bought a well reviewed Spigen one that worked great, but it was only 1m. You'll have to look more carefully for a longer cable, since the increase in length leads to an increase in amperage resistance, which results in slower charging.

That's why phones usually come with shorter cables in the box.

Edit: This one looks like it'd work great, seems to put out the maximum 2.4a that USB A is capable of.

u/Raider1284 · 2 pointsr/oneplus

looks like that aukey product is unfortunately filled with fake BS reviews:

I would return it for a refund if you can. I just got an anker usb-c to usb 3.0 cable and its working great so far:

or if you want a really heavy duty one:

u/YouFinnaShit · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

I don't know what Anker cable you're using but the one I'm using for my s8 (also Anker) clicks in. I just did a check right now to see if it did or didn't and it does.

USB Type C Cable, Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (6ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy S8, S8+, MacBook, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, LG V20 G5, HTC 10 and more

u/akoni103 · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I am able to use a 6 ft cable, and a 10 ft extension,

I have a main gaming rig and a secondary one in my workout room. The front usb3 ports worked on neither. On my main rig-- i7-9700, 1080ti, Aorus z390 mb, I used the 3.1 usb. The jr gaming rig-- r5 3600, 1070, MSI b450i, I had to use the 3.1 usb marked VR ready.

u/p_pal2000 · 2 pointsr/SonyXperia

I assume you're referring to the USB Type-C connector. I can imagine that if your last phone was a few years old that this is new, but it's been around for quite a while. There are tons of places online to order these cables from.

I always recommend Anker branded cables, they have been giving me the most consistent and high quality experience for a while now.

I order them from Amazon, and they come in different lengths. You said you'd like a longer cable, so here are the 6 ft cables and 10 ft cables (respectively) that I myself use.

Hopefully this helps, if you have any questions I'd be glad to answer them.

u/shishkabobrules · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

piggy-backing off this: i've been looking for a long type A to type C cable that supports 3.0 speeds and quick charging. the closest thing i found is this Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable but it clearly indicates it doesn't support full speed charge for nexus 5x/6p. Is there one that does? If so, please let me know!

u/aschwartzmann · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

I've had mixed results using other cables than what came with the HD60s some worked others didn't. I think the ones that come with some devices to be used to charge them aren't compatible because they cheeped out and made a cable to could handle the power but not the data. This should work though since it says it's USB 3.1 not just 3.0

u/ToasterMeltdown · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

You're looking for an USB3 type C (the symmetrical, rounded connector) to type A (the old rectangular connector with blue on the inside).

edit: Corrected link

u/freshcoast · 2 pointsr/MotoX4

I have had good luck so far with the AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters). At the same time I updated to the April 1st 2019 security update. Since both of those Auto has been rock solid. Before that I'd get several disconnects to the point of getting a similar USB device error, even on short drives.

I still have to unlock the phone to get Auto started, unlike all the other phones in my household that connect automatically even when locked.

My HU is a Sony XAV-AX100.

u/eNonsense · 2 pointsr/AndroidAuto

In doing more research and making threads in VW specific forums, I've picked up this cable to try to see if it solves the issue. So often with AA, problems are caused by the cable you're using. This one is the most recent and advanced spec "USB 3.1 Gen 2" which is 10gb/s where Gen 1 was 5gb/s. I'm hoping this does it, since one symptom I did see was slowness. I've got a bit of a road trip this weekend, so I'll see if it works out.

I also read someone say that if your AA freezes up like that again, instead of turning off your car to do a full reboot, you can hold down the power button/volume knob until the infotainment system does a hard shutdown/reboot. Haven't needed to try that yet. I don't really drive during the week.

u/hi_im_rob · 2 pointsr/chromeos

For anyone who might be in the same boat I purchased this dock which came with a USB C to C cable:

And then I purchased this USB A to C cable to connect my Lenovo to the dock:

This setup works perfectly for both my thinkpad and my chromebook.

u/Rayn322 · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I have this cable and it works fine for sideloading and stuff. It's a little short though.

u/PriceKnight · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

Price History

  • USB C Wall Charger, Anker 30W 2 Port Compact Type   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 46 valid reviews
  • Anker PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability,   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 444 valid reviews
  • USB C Charger [GaN Technology], Anker 30W Ultra Compact Type-C   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.4/5 from 83 valid reviews
  • USB C Car Charger, Anker 42W PowerDrive Speed+ Duo, 2   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 31 valid reviews

    These savings aren't just Black and White.
    ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2FNintendoSwitchDeals%2Fcomments%2Fbmant1%2Famazonusa_anker_usbc_chargersale%2Femv5qg5%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
u/NvidiaforMen · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I would recommend Anker and Aukey from my experience

Anker PowerCore Speed 20000 PD, 20100mAh Portable Charger & 30W Power Delivery Wall Charger Bundle, Type C Power Bank for MacBook Air/iPad Pro 2018, Nexus 5X / 6P, iPhone 8 / X, MacBooks

Anker Powerline+ C to C 2.0 Cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy Note 8 S8 S8+ S9, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, Huawei Matebook, MacBook, iPad Pro 2018 and More

u/Worton · 2 pointsr/ipad

I went Anker and purchased this cable with
this charger

u/nickposs · 2 pointsr/razer

30W does not work at all for me, I had an Anker battery with that output and my RBS would not recognize it. Go with the 45W. Here's what I use:

45W PowerBank:

USB C Charge Cable:

(not affiliate links or anything, I have nothing to gain from you using my links vs another)

u/PlayedSomeGames · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I have heard good things about this 10ft Anker cable:

u/gonekrazy3000 · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

well. i can safely say this has made the CV1 obsolete for me. it will be relegated to the "backup" role incase i accidentally break my quest. had absolutely no issues whatsoever for a good hr of play. using a 12ft usb 3.0 extender and a 10 foot type usb 3.0 A-C cable for a total cable length of 22ft connected directly to my Asus Prime X570-p motherboard's usb 3.2 port. my 1080ti is pretty solid so far :D


For those curious these are the exact cables i'm using:-extender:-

A-C cable:-

Full Rig:-

Ryzen 3900X

32 Gb Gskil Trident-z rgb ram

GTX 1080Ti

Asus Prime X570-p motherboard.

u/Lambertofmtl · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Running on Razer Blade 2016 with a GTX 1060

Using recommended Anker cable from Oculus:

Able to run Steam VR and Beat Saber smoothly. It does crash from time to time. But this is so much better than streaming through wifi using RiftCat. So I'm all for it

u/Kaiyening · 2 pointsr/oculus

Thank you for bringing this up: this is exactly what I want to know, as I have found no actual reports in either of the official threads (here is the latest one as of now). Somebody reported terrible performance on a Macbook with Bootcamp and external GPU (AMD Radeon RX580 in a Black Magic box).

I will test this soon on an RTX 2070 Gigabyte Aorus Gaming Box connected to my Yoga 720-15 via a 2-lane Thunderbolt 3 port, which means there is as much bottlenecking as possible.

My cheap cable will be delivered today. If it works, I will try both the USB 3 port on my laptop, and my USB-C Virtual Link port on the eGPU itself. I will also try the officially endorsed Anker cable if this one does not work. I will post my tests here with the VR Mark if the setup works at all.



So I've tested Link with an eGPU (external graphics card / dock). It eventually worked for me. Here are the specs:

  1. Both the onboard USB 3.1 Gen 1 port (left side) and the Virtual Link port on the external GPU (the one that's a USB-C port found on most RTX GPU's) worked fine, and showed very similar performance.
  2. Oculus software should not run the beta version, and Oculus Quest should not have Developer mode on.
  3. Performance is OK, but is obviously considerably lower (at least by 20 to 40%) than had the Quest been connected to a conventional desktop PC with the same specs. Without the headset on the same eGPU setup, VR Mark Orange Room scores about 6000 points. With the headset on and running the test in Oculus virtual desktop (not natively on the HMD displays, though) shows the lowest of 4700 points. Onboard GTX 1050 2GB without the headset would show about 2500 points. My Yoga 15 is downvolted a bit with TB kept on.
  4. Image definitely looks more blurry than I'd want, but I will keep fiddling with Oculus/SteamVR settings. I have also noticed timewarp artifacts on some objects over the edges when turning my head very fast, but those are sometimes there, and sometimes are not. Not sure what's the main cause yet.
  5. You probably do not want to have anything connected to the same USB 3 hub or controller as the one that you have you Quest connected to when you initially connect it to the PC. When I had peripherals connected to the same Corsair ST100 Headphones Stand, Quest would had kept showing a red "x" until I would disconnect the other devices first. When I reconnected those while using the headset, everything was working fine, though; that is until I re-connected the Quest again. Other stuff had to be disconnected first from that hub again then.
  6. Performance was 5-10% lower than when running VR Mark Orange Room via the Oculus Virtual desktop than when just running it on an internal display.
  7. Performance seems to be the same when running Link with either an external monitor connected to the eGPU or with an internal monitor of the laptop itself.
  8. The following cable DID NOT WORK: TOPWE USB Type C Cable USB C Cable (2 Pack 10FT) Type C Charger USB 3.0 Date Sync 3A Fast Charging Cable. DO NOT BUY THIS CABLE to use with the Quest, unless otherwise confirmed for your setup.


    I knew what I was getting into, but using a Rift S with such setup instead of the Quest/Link is preferred due to TB3 limitations when feeding the signal back to the PC. Ideally, you would not use Oculus Quest or even a Rift S with an eGPU setup, but this is the setup I have, so here we are: it is confirmed to be working on a Windows machine and an RTX 2070 eGPU, as long as you have proper USB 3 ports. This depends on your laptop, though, hence Virtual Link port can save the day for some people.
u/shdwphnx · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I would suggest the cable that was directly recommended by Oculus (at least according to the UploadVR article referenced in Reddit's "Oculus Link Megathread")...
The original link from the article -
For those in Germany/anywhere else that uses -
And just for good measure, here's the same link for -

u/boostedb1mmer · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I'm hoping to use this cable and this extender. I dont think the 15ft the official cable will come with will be long enough for sufficient freedom of movement.

u/AssholeInRealLife · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

Wow, that's crazy. I wasn't going to link the cable (someone asked me to in another comment) but after this I'm starting to think it might be a good idea.

This is the one I bought:

u/armygamereality · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

In anticipation for the Link beta launch, what software should we download if any, Oculus Rift S ? Or will there be a separate Link software from Oculus's website that we'll have to download in order to use Oculus Link? Also, to confirm, we should be able to purchase any Rift S supported game from Steam, e.g. Asgard's Wrath, etc. and then be able to run it via Link when it's released correct? Also if anyone is sidequesting Asgards Wrath how's the quality? Also to help anyone I could never get Windows 10 to show the Oculus Quest on PC until I purchased a high quality cable that is recommended for using Link, see link below, after trying everything.

u/KageYume · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I would like to share my experience with Link.

My motherboard has a both USB 3.1 gen 1 and USB 3.1 gen 2 port. I've tested Link with Anker PowerLine USB-A to USB-C (3m, 3.1 gen 2) that Oculus recommended and the CableCreation Active USB-A extension cable (5m,male to female USB-A).

When I tried Link with the Anker cable alone plugged into USB 3.1 gen 2 port, it worked well.

However when I used the CableCreation + Anker combo plugged into USB 3.1 gen 2 port, audio did not work properly.

Then I tried the above combo plugged into USB3.1 gen 1 port, they worked properly without problem.

Anker Powerline (Amazon JP), CableCreation Active Extension Cable (Amazon JP)

My PC:

MSI X470 Gaming Pro

Ryzen 7 3700X

nVidia Geforce RTX 2080

(I've filled in the survey.)

u/livevicarious · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

The only one that's really officially supported is this one

Cheap and works with some 10' extension cables including this one.

This gives you 20 feet. Done deal

u/Pazzosapiente · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Prova questo. Un po’ spesso e rigido ma funziona alla grande in attesa di quello ufficiale.

Try this. A little too thick and rigid, but it perfectly works while I wait for official one.

AmazonBasics - Cavo da USB C a USB 3.1 gen 1, in nylon a doppio intreccio | 3 m, Grigio scuro

u/Zognorm · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

For the cable, I've be using this one from Amazon with great results
From what I've seen, you mostly just need to make sure it's usb3.

u/early_m · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

If you're in the uk the below cable works for me

It's 3m long and comes with a cable strap you can use to attach to the arm of you headset to get the cable out the way

Amazon Basics USB 3.1 A-C cable

u/Litneo_Spark · 2 pointsr/oculus

AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon...

This one, right?

u/mikefromvegas · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I think I have the same cable bought from Amazon US.

I can confirm it works, plugged into a Inateck usb card.

One word of warning, this is a VERY thick USB cable.

u/MrBMT · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Or just get one of these, and you can use it for both Side Quest and Oculus Link (if you have a compatible PC). (AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-A 3.1 Gen 1 Cable | 3 m)

u/6x9equals42 · 2 pointsr/headphones

PC->modi is USB A->B, modi->magni is RCA

u/Zimminar · 2 pointsr/Guitar

The katana has a usb type b port on it. To connect to a computer you'll need a cable like this

u/betamat · 2 pointsr/Focusrite

If you don't mind a UK Amazon link, this would be fine:

u/Amanystya · 2 pointsr/anime

Yeah you can only use it on a computer. The main thing you need is a midi cable. Most digital pianos should have a midi port somewhere. You can use a printer cable like this. You just plug it from your piano into your PC. There's a demo for Synthesia but most of the important features are locked, like automatic pausing when you make a mistake. So you can either pay for the full version or download it through other means. All you really need is a midi cable and the software, just as long as your piano actually has a midi port.

u/drawing_blanks · 2 pointsr/MusicBattlestations

I think you can just use a regular old usb cable

u/sinubux · 2 pointsr/berkeley

This is the one I've been using since freshman year:

It's currently going for $95, which is actually a lot more expensive than usual. I think it usually goes for like $60-$70, so maybe wait a bit and see if it comes back down.

It is only black-and-white, but it does have automatic duplex (double-sided-printing), so it's very convenient for printing out essays and readings and stuff.

It's been very reliable, and if you buy the off-brand toner cartridges (these are the ones I get), it's pretty cheap as well.

EDIT: One thing to note that caught me off guard when I bought it- It doesn't come with a USB cable, so maybe pick up one of those as well if you don't have one laying around.

u/pridetwo · 2 pointsr/headphones

The HP-A4's RCA plugs are for sending music out to speakers, not for sending your music into the amp. For android phones, you'll need a USB-B 2.0 to USB-A cable and a USB-A to USB-C adapter assuming you're using a phone with USB-C like Samsung S8, or Note8, or a USB-A to Micro-USB adapter if you're using a older/cheaper android phone like Samsung S7, J3, etc.

USB-B to USB-A cable:

USB-A to USB-C Adapter:

USB-A to Micro USB Adapter:

u/JasonDB55 · 2 pointsr/piano

I only included the braille in case you or anyone else that reads it later needs it, or maybe wants to print out to have next to their piano so they don't need to keep coming back to reddit for it. I tried to think of everything to help. I'm not blind, but I can only imagine how frustrating it must be to not have owners manuals in a form you can read being blind. I actually looked to see if they had a version for visually impaired. Sadly, they did not. This shows an obvious need in our world that we do not have.


Yamaha's Smart Pianist app for iOS allows you to control the functions of your P-125 with your iOS device (requires Apple Lightning to USB Camera Adapter and USB cable). The USB cable will be USB-A to USB-B ends.

Facing the back of the piano you have from left to right, USB to Host, Sustain pedal, Pedal Unit, Aux jack right, aux jack left and balanced, finally the power.


I hope this helps and was exactly the answers you were seeking. Good luck on your journey learning piano.

u/Kerry56 · 2 pointsr/headphones

You don't have to buy expensive cables, or necessarily from Schiit. If you get a Modi2 and Magni2, you'll need a USB cable with an A type connector on one end and a B connector on the other to go from the Modi2 to the computer. Like this.

To connect the Modi2 to the Magni2, you'll need basic RCA cables. Something like this will do.

The ones I've linked are just examples. But there really isn't a need to go overboard on cables.

u/krrish15 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

I had a similar problem. Furthermore in my case it would take me up to 2 hours to get serato to connect to my controller. I got an Amazon basic cable and it works wonderfully. Here is a link to the one I got.

u/mattenthehat · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So first, to connect your DAC to your computer, you'll need a usb A to B cable like this one. Most printers come with one of these, so you may have on laying around that you're not using. Plug the A (regular USB) end into your laptop, and the B (the square one) into the USB input on the DAC.

Next, you'll need two RCA splitters like this, one for the left channel, and one for the right. Plug one into each of the outputs on the DAC (male end into dac, 2 female ends hanging free).

To connect the subwoofer, you just need a regular RCA cable like this. Just run one side of the cable from one of the ouptuts of the spitter connected to the left channel on the DAC to the left input of the sub, and the same for the right (after this, you should have one output used on each of the two splitters).

Finally, to connect your speakers, I think the simplest way would be with the RCA to XLR cables (sadly, you'll need two of them, so you'll have to pick up another). Just run one from the free output on each of the splitters on the DAC outputs to the XLR input on the appropriate speaker (left or right).

Obviously, for each cable, get whatever length is convenient for the positioning of all your components.

u/freakingwilly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
  1. USB Switch = $7.44 USD (cables not included)
  2. Sabrent USB Hub = $6.99 USD
  3. 2x USB A to B cables = $4.99 each USD ($9.98 total)

    Total cost is just under $25 USD. Plug your keyboard and mouse into the hub, plug the hub into the USB switch, connect the USB switch to your PC and Mac. Now you can switch on the fly between both PC and Mac without having to swap cables. The nice thing about this is that you have 4 ports total, so you can add more devices if need be.
u/Elmer-Eugene · 2 pointsr/TIdaL

I already said this on another post, BUT if you ask me, for the money and build quality you can't beat Schiit Audio.

Pick up a MAGNI "HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP" for $99, a MODI "DAC" for $99 - $249 for the multibit version. So between $198-and $348 you can have an outstanding smi-portable DAC and Headphone/Preamp.

You will need a set of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the Headphone amp. As for connecting your smartphone you will need this USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter and then you will then need to connect that to a USB A-B Cable. Plug the "B" end of the USB A-B cable into the Dac. Additionally you could have skipped the DAC altogether and ran a RCA-to-3.5 cable right into the back of the headphone amp. But if you are aiming to take advantage of the HiFi/master audio I would recommend you use the DAC method. Connecting your laptop is just as easy and you can just run the USB A-B cable into the DAC. Or, if your computer has an optical audio output you could use a Toslink cable to connect direct into the DAC.

your all set man. get after it.

u/MiniMoose12 · 2 pointsr/headphones

No. You need an RCA Cable and a USB cable that has a USB2 cable that has a Type B end. (like this You need the square ending usb 2. Anyways I use amazon basics usb cables on mine and they're great.

u/Holybananas666 · 2 pointsr/edrums

Hey man, not a problem at all.

You'll need a printer cable to connect your Alesis module to your Macbook via MIDI interface.

Once connected, open Garageband and it'll ask you to choose a template, one of which is drums. Select that and it'll open up a new window. You might get a notification in top right corner as well which says "1 midi input detected" which'll prove that Garageband has successfully recognized the kit.

Now, you can select different kits from a panel on the left side and you'll hear the voice on your laptop speakers once you hit on the kit. You can output it to headphone/speaker via your laptop AUX port.

Feel free to DM me if you face any problem. Good luck dude.

u/MartianBitwell · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

No worries, I blasted a lot of info in that first comment that may not have been immediately relevant to your situation. Hopefully the details below can get you started:

In the spec, the “OUTPUT L/MONO, R jacks (monaural phone jack unbalanced)” refers to the 1/4” jacks. Since it confirms they are unbalanced, you would use a 1/4” TS cable. Check out this Hosa Dual TS cable for a cheaper example that has two cables for Left and Right. (Two single 1/4” TS cables would work just fine too). This is the cable you’ll connect to the interface for the audio.

For the UMC404HD, the input jacks are “combo” jacks that can accept TS, TRS, and XLR connections.

For clarification: unbalanced signals only have two wires, the tip and the sleeve (“TS”). Balanced have 3 wires, like and XLR connection or a TRS (tip-ring-sleeve). Just make sure if you’re looking for an unbalanced instrument cable, you don’t get a speaker cable. Both actually have TS connectors. Instrument cables have a signal wire and shield made to reduce noise, where as speaker cables have two equally sized wires that are made to send power from an amp to a speaker.

The 3.5mm connections mentioned in the specs are for sync and CV connections. These are not audio, but I ways to interface with other synths that have patch points. I wouldn’t stress too much about them if the Minilogue is your only synth for now.

In addition to audio, being able to record the MIDI
data will give you lots of flexibility in songwriting and recording. For this, just using a USB cable will work for starters. You could connect with MIDI cables to your interface instead of the USB connection, but you wouldn’t need both.

The audio interface will have a USB cable included for connecting to the computer. Keep in mind you’ll want some sort of DAW software to record into. There are plenty of free options out there to try and see what you like, and the interface you buy will probably come with some form of Lite version. Also keep in mind when using an interface, playback will also come through it as an output. You can monitor this with headphones or by connecting the Main Out to powered monitors.

u/wbfg23 · 2 pointsr/tablets

That looks like a USB type B port. Any USB type A to type B cable should work.

Something like this should be ok.

u/Phantaminum · 2 pointsr/headphones

Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.

You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.

USB A to B I purchased:

RCA Cable:

You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-

u/Kichigai · 2 pointsr/VideoEditing

Well, I just looked up that model of camera. According to the manual I was both right and wrong. You can transfer media via USB, however I was wrong about the presence of internal storage. It just acts as a USB DVD drive, so your workflow is probably faster because your computer's DVD drive is likely a lot faster.

FYI, the mini-USB cable that camera uses is super common. Before MicroUSB took over mini-USB was the most common connector, being used by everything from cell phones to hard disks to drawing tablets. If you ever need one they're easy to find and cheap to buy.

u/heyodai · 2 pointsr/Garmin

As far as I know, the Edge 510 uses a standard mini-USB cable - I usually use an Amazon Basics cable with it, without issue.

Normally, I'd say the cable you were using was bad, especially because the Edge was getting power but no data, which seems to be a common symptom of a frayed cable. However, you did try 3 other cables, and the chances of them all being bad... well, as long as it's working, right?

u/tequilajunction · 2 pointsr/HelpMeFind
u/jayrockslife · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

This is the cable you’ll need

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters)

u/TestinTestin · 2 pointsr/NASCAR

The good thing about the FanVision cables is that it uses a regular Mini USB plug that can be picked up at a place like Best Buy or online

u/Free_Dome_Lover · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you buy it from KBD you can apparently get the PCB/Switches cheaper than I did..
$50 for PCB, Switches if you want different switches like Cherry MX switches you can buy them from I put Cherry MX blacks on this one, I like reds but blacks are slightly heavier actuation force, but linear like reds. Makes em not to clacky and loud but are very smooth to type on. Especially if you hammer the KB like me.

$10 for stabilizers

Pick a case
$25-$100 or more (mine is the $45 acrylic frosted)

Find some keycaps you like, this can get stupid expensive $20-infinite$$

Pick a plate $22

Get a mini USB cable $7

u/DarkLordGwyn · 2 pointsr/buildapc

My current solution was to route a USB Mini-B to USB-A cable from the Kraken pump out the back of the case to a USB port on the back of my motherboard's IO.

You can see the cable connected to the pump going out the case here It goes down and out near the GPU.

This will have to be the best solution for now until a USB 3.1 Gen 2 header to USB 2.0 header adapter is made; if ever.

u/OneEarth3 · 2 pointsr/PSP

You can transfer saves, although you might need a PC and a couple cheap adapters to do it.

You need a card reader capable of reading the SD cards. Pretty much all laptops already have that built in, but for a desktop PC you'll want something like this:

PSP memory sticks generally come with an SD card adapter as well, which you'll also need.

You insert the PSP memory stick into the SD card adapter, then insert that into the card reader on your PC. From there, your PC should automatically detect the memory stick as if it's an SD card, and you can copy the saves for any game to your PC. Once the saves are copied on to your PC, you can copy them to anything you want later, including a different PSP memory stick.

Alternatively, you may be able to simply plug in the whole PSP to your PC using this kind of USB cord and copy the saves that way. It'd be simpler if it works, but I also don't have firsthand experience with it.

u/eviljolly · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

You need an A-Male to Mini-B USB cable like this.

As far as sims, here's ones I've personally tried, in order from favorite to least favorite.

DRL - Free

Velocidrone - Free trial

FPV Freerider/FPV Freerider Recharged - Think there's a free trial, but it's like $10-15

Liftoff - $14

There's plenty others. Hotprops looks nice, but I wasn't able to get my Taranis working with it. I haven't had a lot of time with Velocidrone, but it could easily take my #1 spot since it incorporates Betaflight's logic. There's also several other non-free sims that I haven't had a chance to try. If anyone else has input, feel free to continue the thread.

u/urist81 · 2 pointsr/fixit

I'd look around eBay then and see if you can find a dead one for parts. This is only $10 right now:

Oh, and can you post a pic of the charging cable? Just out of curiosity.

EDIT: I did some digging and it looks like it uses miniUSB - does that sound possible? Mini isn't much used now that micro has become "king".

Does the cable look like this?

If so:

u/kabanossi · 2 pointsr/techsupport

This one should help The connector is called mini USB.

u/please_no_photos · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I've had an Odyssey for three weeks now with a 10 ft. HDMI and USB 3.0 extension. I had to use a powered 3.0 hub because I was having horrible tracking issues without one and random blue screens. I believe USB 3.0 is rated for a max of 900mA which I think can be tedious when using passive extensions. Here's what I bought :

Sabrent USB 3.0 powered hub: Link

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 extension : Link

AmazonBasics HDMI extension: Link

I just have the cable running along the floor adjacent to the wall that my desk sits next to so I haven't had the need for any mounting applications, can't help there I'm afraid. I'll be happy to try to help if you have any questions.

u/Antarez888 · 2 pointsr/oculus

My 360 setup works great with just 2 cameras, my space is 2.5 x 1.8 meters. Both my cameras are up high near the ceiling pointing down in opposite corners of the room. I had problems when I tried running both cameras and the rift through my USB 3 card, but running the rift on USB 3, and the cameras on USB 2 ports works great. I use this extension cable on one of the cameras:

u/dwarrior · 2 pointsr/oculus

Depending on your computer placement you might need a usb3 extension cable for one of your sensors, your 3rd sensor you purchased comes with one but I needed a second one for my other sensor due to placments. This is also option but I grabbed a 10ft HDMI and 10FT usb3 extension cable fro my headset as well to help give me better range with more slack. Also some camera mounts for mounting your sensors on the walls helps alot.

For referance these are what I ordered, im in Canada so these are all Canadian links so you may need to find your local equivalent

10ft USB 3 extension cables (I use two of them, one to extend a sensor and oen for my hmd)

10ft HDMI extension for my hmd

Wall mounts for my sensors

And because I had a lack of proper USB 3 ports on my computer I needed a PCI to usb 3 expansion card

u/chelsfc2108 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I am using this combo HDMI/USB 3.0 extension cable (10 feet). Don't need to worry about passive/active stuff, just plug and play. I have been using these for 3 weeks now and they are flawless.

u/TurboGranny · 2 pointsr/oculus

Gotta put it in the DVI port by all accounts to make it work and keep working.

Sorry that some are just available in 2 packs, but it's cheap and it works. Turns out I was misremembering. It was 10 feet extension and not 6, heh. I pulled these links from my amazon order history.

u/whitesox313 · 2 pointsr/oculus

No problem--I'll include them all, plus what I used to mount the cameras if interested. Again, no tracking or lag issues whatsoever. Works like it's plugged directly into the motherboard.

Headset Extension:

Sensor Extension:

Sensor Mounts:

u/camrewop · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I think you're correct. Based on your supposition, I used a USB Y cable to add some extra juice to the phone (something like this cable_link).

One male end og the Y is plugged into the back of the receiver (a Pioneer AVH Nex 2300) and the other male end is plugged into a 12vdc usb hub.

I have a USB A to USB C (tried with a non-approved cable) cable that plugs from the phone into the female end of the Y.

Worked every time I plugged in, no finicky charge/not-charging cycle.

Now to decide if I want to hard wire everything in, or just send the stereo back...

u/Prudent_Geologist · 2 pointsr/AndroidAuto

I think the issue is that USB-PD and QC3.0 both use data signaling to negotiate the charging rate and so you can't really split out data. But I may spend the money to see if this works:


Ended up ordering this: There are reviews that say it works with phones and others that say it doesn't. It'll arrive Sunday and I'll test it with my USB-C meter so that I can measure the exact charging rate with and without it.

u/MyPackage · 2 pointsr/Android

I wonder if you could use something like this to add a car charger to the cable make your phone charge faster.

u/DarkStar851 · 2 pointsr/WiiUHacks


I just made one out of an old MicroUSB cable and a Y-cable I had for a DVD ROM drive, but I guess getting a proper one would be a better idea.

u/maxpowers64 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Yes. You could use something like this to do what you want:

(along with the needed microUSB adapter)

u/X_ZeroGravity_X · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

As many others have stated here, it is to provide more power than a single USB is capable of providing.
Check the power requirements label on the unit itself and see what it calls for.

u/Torengo · 2 pointsr/smashbros

I've never had an issue of my lan adapter disconnecting from losing power, so I can't say. You could try plugging into another port or buy a cable to supply additional power to your lan adapter.

u/IVI3T4L · 2 pointsr/AndroidAuto

I do not know the answer to your question, but this would solve the problem if it does exist. Just use your 2.1 with this.

u/novel_yet_trivial · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

USB electronics run off 5 volts, not 12 (which that cable provides). You need something that converts the 12V from the cigarette lighter to 5V.

I say forget the USB hub and just get a cable that has a second plug on it for a power boost, like this one. If he can use 2 ports on the tablet that may be enough power for the drive, if not he can plug the power only line (marked red) into a standard cigarette lighter to USB converter.

u/Scruffy42 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Well, any external hard drive that says it's powered by USB, just assume you will need a Y usb connector. The Y takes power from two sources 1 pi and 1 other. The pi doesn't pump out the juice to keep the hd spinning.

I just bought one of these for a NAS pi project but it needed extra power.

WD 4tb Passport

Then a Y connector

As for cases, it's all about creativity and whatever gives you inspiration. I put mine in a classic (broken) sony walkman.

u/RockinKat · 2 pointsr/bitchimabus

This is the cheapest of this kind of thing I can find: PortaPow Fast Charge + Data Block USB Adaptor with SmartCharge Chip

u/jaweeks · 2 pointsr/funny

PortaPow 3rd Gen USB Data Blocker (Red)

Charge anywhere without fear.

u/mikhoulee · 2 pointsr/worldnews

To bypass this in airport we could use a USB dongle that have only the two 5 volts connector without using the two data connectors.

NOTE: I will not become rich with this idea since it's already exist

u/jangxx · 2 pointsr/de

>Mit ein bisschen Fantasie (oder einer Anleitung aus dem Internet) kann man sich vermutlich auch nen ähnlichen Adapter bauen

USB-Kondome gibts auch für ein paar Euro zu kaufen, keine Bastelei notwendig.

u/PicklesInTheMorning · 2 pointsr/hacking
u/lurkity_mclurkington · 2 pointsr/TeslaLounge

I got one of these (actually the 2-pack so my wife can use on in her car, too) and it seems to work great as a fast charger in my front USB ports. I just plugged the USB that was given to me by Tesla into it. It basically tells your phone that the USB is a charge-only connection, as opposed to a data connection.

u/therealmacjeezy · 2 pointsr/firstworldanarchists

Haha, ‘tis a real thing! I have several of these!

charging condom

u/twent4 · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

Should get something like this then, or get a USB pigtail and bust up the data rails.

u/Gatodeocho · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Just went through this myself, and that's not quite right. They need a data signal, or to be fooled that there is one.

Some cables or chargers don't have this, so you can sometimes use one of these to trick it:

PortaPow Fast Charge + Data Block USB Adaptor with SmartCharge Chip

I still can't got my ps gold headset to charge anywhere else though.

u/bloogles1 · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

You can also get a USB data blocker if you’re really concerned. It has the data pins removed. Leaving only the power ones.

u/princessnymphia · 2 pointsr/EnoughTrumpSpam

These might be worth investing in as well: USB adapters that block the transfer of data from your phone.

I don't think it'll ever get to the point where we need this stuff but better to have it and not need it than need and not have it.

u/sporadic00 · 2 pointsr/FulfillmentByAmazon

As a consumer, there's a competing product that looks to be of better quality for a cheaper price. This one is a more expensive than the one previously listed, however its still cheaper than yours and has 632 reviews -

u/qruxtapose · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

You know I thought maybe you might have lol.

This is the one I’m using

Cable Matters USB-C Cable (USB A to USB C Cable/USB C to USB Cable) in Black 3.3 Feet for Samsung Galaxy S9/S8/Note 8, LG G6/V30, Nintendo Switch, Google Pixel/Nexus 5X/6P and More

The 3.3 ft cable is maybe too small. For me it’s almost perfect but with the battery in my pocket sometimes when looking up I can feel the weight of the power bank. So I might need the longer cable or simply adjust where I carry the battery.

u/piciupitik · 2 pointsr/razerphone

I really feel bad for you... a type c from laptop still counts for quick charge 4.0+. I almost never used the power brick; oh and the transfer speeds are ridiculous. Keep that in mind when you will buy your next laptop.
Something like this should do

u/greenrider04 · 2 pointsr/Android

Maybe try Amazon.

u/shemantis · 2 pointsr/Android

I have updated to the October Android patch and used this cable: (the 3.3-foot version), and Android Auto now works.

I know that isn't super-helpful, since I don't know which factor which fixed it, but it is now working in our 2017 Chevy Cruze.

u/Rail_Control · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

On linux, it was likely harmless. Still ill-advised.

Better would be to offer a charge from your backup battery. Or use a USB data blocking adapter. For their safety as well as yours.

u/shadyninja94 · 2 pointsr/security

It is USB device that is design to physically cut off the the data lines, with the idea being that you could use the device to charge your phone/tablet in any random USB port without the risk of data transfer.

u/ChetBenning · 2 pointsr/answers

Not that I know of. Do you need to transfer data to/from your work PC or are you just charging? If just charging you can get a USB condom, or a power only USB cable.

Not affiliated with these products, just for examples:

u/DigChrono · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

I think they're talking about those things you sometimes see in malls and airplanes, where it's just a USB port to directly plug your cable into. But, if you have to use one of those, it's best to use a data blocker, like this one.

u/ET3 · 2 pointsr/androidapps

Or a USB condom

PortaPow Data Blocker USB Adaptor with SmartCharge (2 Pack)

u/edman007 · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

It can't be done in SW, the 2.1A negotiation is by lack of data and a fixed resistance. You need a dongle to do it. They are cheap.

u/Lanky_Ape · 2 pointsr/Nexus

iOrange-e comes highly recommended. I have one for work, where the outlet is across the cubicle.

u/-Tom- · 2 pointsr/reactiongifs

I bought a couple of these and a 12v car adapter (for the car) that can do higher amperage necessary for USB C quick charging. Theyre fairly affordable and tested to be truly USB C compliant.

u/steve_the_woodsman · 2 pointsr/nexus5x

You're going about this the wrong way. The 12v chargers are prone to weather damage.

The best way to set this up is put a quick disconnect lead on your battery and then the battery tender USB charger connected to it. Like this. But that only gives you USB 2.0... So buy this tested/approved USB 2.0 to Type-C USB cable. to run to your holding cradle. I use the RAM mount system.

This way you've got a fuse between your battery and phone, preventing either from damaging the other.

I've had this setup permanently setup on my motorcycle for the past year and it'll positively charge my phone even when I'm using EatSleepRide to track my ride, Bluetooth for music, and Google Maps for route navigation.

u/xnifex · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

The spreadsheet is done by someone else doing their own testing. I would go with anything Benson has approved.

I bought these:

u/stealthgyro · 2 pointsr/ProjectFi

Oh no that was this

u/Grey406 · 1 pointr/oculus

No prob! That's exactly why I bought one, and ended up needing the spare controller already as I destroyed one controller already by accident.

Also one thing to note, if you buy the sensor alone for $60, it includes a 16ft extension cable BUT it is USB 2.0 so it will force the sensor to 2.0 even if plugged into 3.0.

The sensor included in the Oculus Touch set does not include an extension cable, so you will have to buy one separately. I purchased this one because I wanted to run all 3 sensors at 3.0 with a deidcated 3.0 card.

u/Schlick7 · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

I successfully use this cable.

no audio though

u/Goose_Whistle · 1 pointr/oculus

That's right.

-Right sensor plugged directly.

-Left sensor extended by this this cable.

-Rear sensor extended by this cable

I have the headset connected using the extender I mentioned already and this HDMI extender.

I've read somewhere that a 4K HDMI repeater can remedy my situation, so I ordered one that will get to me on Sunday.

What really perplexes me is the how the the left sensor goes from "OK" to "poor tracking" when I plug in the headset... and how the whole thing works sometimes and other times it's a no-go.

u/samtheredditman · 1 pointr/oculus

The Best Buy vr headset cable didn't work for my rift so I pulled the cables apart and used the 3.0 extension for my second sensor since I was out of the return period. Works perfect for that.

Here's what I got for my headset and the only things I'd recommend for headset extensions:

hdmi cable

hdmi repeater

usb 3 cable

inateck usb 3 card

The usb extender cable wouldn't work with anything besides the usb 3 card for me so I would say just buy it too. Though, I can only plug 2 things into the usb card.

These 4 things solved all my problems though. You can roll the dice on the best buy cord, but there's a decent chance you'll have to buy this stuff after and this way you get 15ft of extension instead of 9.

u/acnorway · 1 pointr/oculus

I can confirm that this cables work flawlessly as well:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters

u/kloyN · 1 pointr/headphones

Is this a good one?

I assume I can't use digital optical as I'm pretty sure my PC doesn't have one. Only optical I'm rollin is an optical drive!

u/stranded_meerkat · 1 pointr/wacom

Pen displays generally have three connections: Video, data, power. This model uses a DVI-D cable for video. Power adapter is POW-A131 for the non-touch, and POW-A120 for the touch model. Then the USB-B to A cable for data, he's one from Amazon that should work: (these cables are very generic and standard, so compatibility is never really an issue so long as you get the right connector type).

Since you are getting a video signal, I wouldn't bother changing those other cables. Just swap this one and see what happens, if it doesn't fix it --- the issue could be the computer, but more likely an issue with the Cintiq itself (my money's on the cable tho).

Good luck

u/ThR1LL · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm about to buy A Schiit Magni 2 Uber and Modi 2 Uber to drive my DT 990 250ohm and AKG K7XX 90% of the time that will be used for FPS gaming. I read that the way to still utilize the soundcard's features are to go optical from soundcard to DAC and then RCA from DAC to amp. Another interesting thing I haven't found much information on is for RCA using only the red RCA cable vs. using the red & white. What's the difference? Also these are the cables I'm looking at for the Schiit stack:

u/dvhh · 1 pointr/headphones

look like a normal usb B plug

you probably need one of these

u/f01e2869c35fef · 1 pointr/BossKatana

Nope, it doesn't. This (USB A to B) is what you need, as I recall.

u/thrashmaster · 1 pointr/protools

This new MIDI controller connects to the computer with a USB like one of these cords below:

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters)

I am using a Alienware laptop from 2015ish. I'm assuming I have the newest version of Pro Tools First since I only downloaded a few days ago.

Also what is ASIO and why do people keep talking about it?

Also thank you for responding.

u/AwkwardReply · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm also looking for a DAC for the LSR305. So far, the Scarlett 2i2 2nd gen seems to be one of the most popular.

In the case of the 2i2, you would need:

  • 1x USB Cable A-Male to B-Male (like this one)


  • 2x 1/4'' TRS cables (like this one


  • 2x XLR to TRS cable (like this one)

    Whichever DAC you decide to get you should get one with balanced outputs like TRS (Scarlett 2i2) or XLR (Scarlett 2i4). It doesn't make any difference as far as sound quality if output is TRS or XLR or if you use XLR to TRS cables.

    So, as I said I'm looking for a DAC too and although the 2i2 is popular I haven't setled on it yet; I'm just a casual music listener and I feel the recording inputs will be wasted if I get the Scarlett as I don't do any recording at all, ever.

    I just wand a decent DAC (<$200) that has volume control and balanced outputs (and optionaly, very low prio, a headphone output).
u/EpisodeOneWasGreat · 1 pointr/audiophile

Computer to PT-100 via USB type A cable.

PT-100 Main outputs to Airmotiv inputs via a stereo RCA patch cable

u/chandler404 · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Oh, I got it that long intentionally. My hope was that I could run it from my radio to the coffee table, and have some length left over to wind an air choke into the cable.

My initial though was that the first cable was somehow broken, which may explain the issue. It was a generic Amazon cable, and ironically enough it is now unavailable due to quality issues. It is listed here: AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters)

When I got the second cable, it didn't occur to me that the level of shielding or length had anything to do with problems I was having.

u/nosurferato · 1 pointr/modular

>Thank you for the incredibly informative reply! I've been reading up on this a bit but I'm still unsure: what's the difference in quality, latency, and software/hardware compatibility between tradition '5-din' MIDI, MIDI to USB / USB-MIDI and USB (where either both sides are USB or like [this]( For example, my digital piano has a 5 pin MIDI 'DIN', is this different in any way (software/hardware compatibility, quality etc) from the example cable provided in the link? I hear all kinds of different opinions on the matter. And it's extra confusing to me because my computer doesn't have a MIDI in port, so it's going to have to get changed into USB anyway. I mean maybe the desktop has top has MIDI in, but I'm not even sure if there's advantages there.
>At any rate, I think I've boiled it down to either the Keystep or Microbrute. I'm going to use softsynths with either, so I'm not sure if the Keystep has any advantages here other than being cheaper.
>Sorry for the rant and thanks for the help so far, it's been very helpful.

u/skp_005 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I mean it's a USB cable that is typically used for printers. Like [this].

u/bears_on_unicycles · 1 pointr/Dell

I don't think DP is the same thing as Type B, but I can't be sure. Just get something like this and you should be fine

u/soundman1024 · 1 pointr/editors

Without knowing more about your ingest workflow it's had to say, but you might be well served with a Pegasus R6/R8 or similar. That'll give the bandwidth to be ingesting a few cards at once and be duplicating to a portable drive that can go back to editoral. The fewer volumes I have to manage the easier I find staying organized. One 30TB volume seems a lot more manageable than 6 4TB drives floating everywhere. If you go the RAID/NAS route make sure you don't go too small.

A RAID could also be easier on the AEs if the DIT cart can be connected to the SAN and ingested that way. Instead of a couple hundred Mbps you could get in the Gbps range. Remember that standard gigabit ethernet won't be the answer for high speed transfers.

I know you have three laptops for ingest, but I'd try to build the cart around one laptop copying footage. Again, fewer moving parts is easier to manage. Having a utility laptop that can tackle other tasks is often useful. If you need to make proxy files in the field look into a NAS solution instead of a RAID so you can get two, three, or more computers hitting the storage concurrently.


On top topic of a DIT cart, put some thought into a cart. What it should have. I'd be looking for a big heavy UPS on the bottom to give the thing some stability. Maybe an APC2200? Not sure how worried you are about weight...don't use that if you're flying with it. Get your own network going on there if you have multiple computers. Also add a Thunderbolt dock and power strip on the top to give you more USB ports and power for all the travel drives that will show up. I'd connect drives to a laptop in the middle and look for a way to put a laptop on an arm on the side of the cart too. Needs to collapse down so the whole things is self-contained for transport. I'd use the middle laptop for copying and the side laptop for proxy creation.

Make sure you have all the cables on hand. Thunderbolt 2, USB2 B, USB2 Mini-B (old GoPro charging), USB2 Micro-B (old Android charging), USB3 B, USB3 Micro-B, and finally USB C. I'd have 1 each on the USB2 variants, 2 each on the USB3 variants, and 3 of the Type C variants. Gauge your own need for Firewire 400, Firewire 800, HDMI, Ethernet, and the requisite dongles. Might be wise to have a USB-A dongle and maybe an Ethernet dongle on hand for the Touchbar laptops. Even if you don't have a Touchbar they're coming. It isn't that much money (comparatively) to keep these kinds of things in a drawer, but it can make a huge difference if you have it on hand.

I'd probably trick my cart out with a mass charger and some Lightning and Type-C cables. Hit all the cables with some orange gaff or some sort of mark so that people don't carry them away. Might even tape the phone cables to the cart. Might seem excessive, but if you set that up people won't be filling up your power strip with their chargers or plugging their phones into your ingest station. 10 ports might be more than you need, especially since people shouldn't be using their phones too heavily on set, but the goal is to make sure your power strip isn't used on phones.


As for software, you'll have to consider your needs and what fits them best. I'm not a lot of help on that front. Haven't messed around with the options too much.

u/c0demonkee · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/ocinn · 1 pointr/audiophile

Unfortunately, all the ones are designed to switch 1 connected device between two computers, which could work.

Ok, so you'd plug the USB splitter into a USB port on your computer, Then you'd run the USB 2.0 B cable into one of the USB B ports on the switcher.

Then you'd remove the adapter from the ifi, plug it into the other usb B port on the switcher, and then plug the dac into the usb A port on the other side.

The "two computers" would be the line with the ifi, and the line without.

u/QuadroMan1 · 1 pointr/Fanatec

You could try using another cable like this if you don't have similar ones laying around. Might be a waste of $6 but will be a fast fix if it's just the cable.

u/shurik179 · 1 pointr/arduino

For connecting to the computer, both boards use regular USB A/B cable, e.g.

The same cable can also be used to power the boards - for most cases, this is all you need.

u/FootFlat · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Are you sure? This doesn't look like the cable that came with my mic:

u/georgemcbay · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Assuming you are using a PC or Mac with relatively standard USB connectors (things get more complicated with the new dongley-MacBooks) any well made USB Mini-B to USB-A cable ('male' on both sides) will work.

Like this:

You can buy these types of cables virtually anywhere, including most department stores. Just make sure it is mini-USB and not the more common micro-USB that is used for most cellphones and other small devices.

u/MrTiddy · 1 pointr/Multicopter

You'll need that also. Unless you have one already.

u/1Maple · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

It uses A USB mini B cable to charge, according to the spec sheet. You can find one here:

You plug it into your computer, our any regular USB charger could work. When plugged into your computer, you should be able to transfer music to it. If it's been dead for a long time, there's a chance it won't be able to hold a charge, or it might not even be able to power on at all.

u/Applegravy · 1 pointr/gameswap

just so you know, Wii U Pro Controllers charge with a Mini USB (note: Mini, not Micro). unless you really want/need the cable Nintendo packed in with the OEM controllers for whatever reason, you can get something that will charge it for cheap.

u/Costco1L · 1 pointr/audiophile

> I can't even connect the Mojo Chord to the iMac

Why not? Both take USB, and your mac also likely puts out optical through the headphone port; my MacBook Pro does.

u/XxRaceBoy24xX · 1 pointr/rccars

Ah, well if you're running sensorless, then you should be able to just swap the A and C wires and it should spin the opposite way. And if you don't have one of these from literally anything else in your house, then you should just stock up. Super cheap.

u/gailson0192 · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Megatf · 1 pointr/Twitch

I actually used the USB cable that was attached to my Razer Blackwidow Keyboard LOL, I’m pretty sure it was USB 2.0 and it worked totally fine. I could not seem to find 3.0 options when I was searching to purchase one a few days ago so I ordered a 2.0 one from Amazon. The keyboard cable was the only USB to Mini-B cable I had in the house.

This is the best one I could find (and surely better than my keyboard cable which worked without issue):

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters)

u/relevantusernme · 1 pointr/letstradepedals



I have the original box, its not particularly interesting or anything. It came with a USB cable that i dont have any more but its a standard kind of cable,

u/Oblivion9122 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Something like this...? Not sure what exactly you mean here

u/Willz12h · 1 pointr/techsupport

Looks like a UBS Mini cable,


Like so

u/feudalle · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Here's a 6ft

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters)

u/pgm_01 · 1 pointr/canon

I'm pretty good at tech stuff and boy is that connection method difficult! The setup instructions walk you through the way they want you to connect through a home router which are designed to allow you to connect to things on the network easily, for example a printer. A public wifi should be preventing you from doing what you need to do, which is to see other things on that network.

Without having the camera in front of me I can't tell you if it will work but follow the instructions on page 91 for connecting to a smartphone. On step 5 instead of connecting a phone, look for the network information from step 4 on the laptop wifi and try to connect to it. Then try to run the canon software on the laptop and see if it can find the camera. It's a long shot but it might work.

Other than that, it looks like you can use a usb cable on the camera. When looking at the rear of the camera (the screen) open the door on the right side of the camera (it swings to the front). At the top there is a usb port (it uses mini B). You need a cable like this. It looks similar to the micro usb cables that phones use but it is slightly larger. Any place that sells cameras or laptops should have one.

u/LukzehVI · 1 pointr/razer

I had this exact same problem for MONTHS, I bought a new cable to connect to my pc and boom it worked fine again:D I bought this:

u/picantehumano · 1 pointr/headphones
This cable will work with the modi 3 correct?

u/AH6BI · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Do you have an android phone or tablet? Try the Mini60. Here's a couple of links...

You'll need a USB mini-B cable to charge it, such as...

I have an old Samsung Galaxy Note2 that I use. Works great! Using bluetooth, I can scan any band separately, or the whole HF spectrum in one pass.

u/p_light · 1 pointr/oculus

I'd try the amazon basic HDMI cord. It's very thick, which is technically undesirable for other applications, but it's a very good thing for VR as it lets you move the data further
The amazon basic USB 3.0 extension is also cheap and works. But length is more of an issue with USB than HDMI, so keep that in mind when ordering. For instance, if you want to do a set up with longer than 10ft HDMI, I'd use a USB 2.0 extension or alternatively find an active solution so the USB 3.0 works.

EDIT: (I used the 10 ft, and have no problems, YMMV) (same as above, remember the USB stuff is finicky and depends on the PSU on your computer. But I'd say under 10 ft --this is 9.8ft-- is fine)

u/gitbotv · 1 pointr/hotas

They seem pretty sturdy to me. I have an X55 Throttle on the left and X55 stick on the right. The cables the come on these are long enough to reach my front panel USB connectors, you might need to check your circumstances.

You will need to secure them to the mouse pads. I used Velcro strips where work very well. I have a light touch on my equipment but if you are a bit more aggressive you may encounter some movement. Having said that, they are really solid and stable. Here are some more bits that you might need:

2Pcs Velcro Strips with Adhesive Self Adhesive Hook and Loop 16.5 ft Duty Reusable Masking Tape Fastener Sticky Back (Black) (Wide 2 inch X16.5ft)

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable 3 m / 9.8 Feet

u/bongart · 1 pointr/techsupport

That is a 10 foot USB extension, male A to female A. It doesn't decide how fast something will charge. It is what you said you want.

That is an 18 watt, single port charger and is made to charge devices quickly. THAT is the thing that decides if a device like a phone or tablet charges fast or not.

u/Xjph · 1 pointr/oculus

I'm using this 10' cable without issue, it's also passive, but specifically recommended at that length on the subreddit wiki here: (

Active ones are generally a little more expensive, and will have a bigger socket on the end to accommodate the necessary electronics, for example: (this one is also linked from the wiki).

u/TBosTheBoss · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Rankie USB-C to USB-A 3.0 Cable,...

I got this extension as well

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension...

u/iBrushC · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Knowing that it just has to be type 3.0 at least to type C, I think this AmazonBasics cable along with this AmazonBasics extender should work fine and give just about 20 feet of cable for about half the cost of the only available 15 foot cable at the moment. I'll try it and tell you how it goes.

u/O-Deka-K · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

I have the Odyssey+ and just got extension cables for it recently. The AmazonBasics gear all worked fine for me:

u/chx_ · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

But why. Just plug a relevant USB-to-whatever into the monitor. or Potentially add a simple USB A extender cable to get the hub close to wherever needs to be seven bucks. The whole things comes out to be ~20 USD and is always plugged.

u/klaxz1 · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Get this instead.

I’ve gotten plenty of these and given them as gifts. Also I’ve walked around the house with what I call a “corded phone” and it’s pretty dope... just takes 30’ of extension.

u/chris1479 · 1 pointr/oculus

Yeah I've bought a it's coming today so I'll test it out. It's only 10'.

u/Hiems · 1 pointr/buildapc

I understand it's confusing, let me try to clarify.

Say you're sitting at your desk now. Turn 120 degrees to your right. 10 feet in front of you is where my case is supposed to go. Also, there's stuff in the way and the location is unfortunately non-negotiable.

So I need to get a couple of usb ports closer to me. I was thinking:
this hub and this extension cable. Reliable seller, decent reviews and they seem to be what I need (sorry for the italian links, but I think you get the gist). I might pick up the 7 ports version, but it's unlikely.

I'm also kinda worried about my monitor (cable length + it'd be better if it was tiltable), but I need to find one first, so I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Oh, and this popped up when I changed mobo.
>Some Intel B85 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Haswell Refresh CPUs.

Nothing to worry about, I suppose, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.

Edit: the hub link isn't working right. I was referring to the 4 3.0 ports one.

u/Simi510 · 1 pointr/PS4
u/Rayden666 · 1 pointr/oculus

I got these cables, using 2 of these to connect my rear sensor.
Got my rift and 1 sensor in the Inateck card, and 1 sensor in a USB 3.0 on my mobo (which has 2 ports marked as VR Ready).

u/ph4il · 1 pointr/oculus

Thats my setup

I have used those parts for extending the cables and the ceiling mount:

HDMI Repeater

HDMI Extension

USB3 Extension

Ceiling Mount

u/OopsShartPants · 1 pointr/oculus

Here you go:

The HDMI cable is probably much better than the Bestbuy one since it's 24AWG (which is usually only used on longer cables). All in all the price is about the same with dollar conversion. You can get it a bit cheaper directly from Monoprice if you want to wait (it is the HDMI 24AWG commercial cable).

u/geon106 · 1 pointr/Vive

Nope to be fair they are 10ft. These are the exact ones I ordered and they work fine:

Edit: Though looking at the current prices of those items, the 25ft HDMI cable is less than £9

u/teiji25 · 1 pointr/oculus

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 15 Feet:

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black:

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3.0 Meters):

Note: I've actually had one sensor connecting to the CableCreation 16ft + AmazonBasics 9.8ft for a total of 25.8ft extension, and it still works flawlessly. Signal still maintains USB 3.0 and no poor tracking errors (connecting to Inateck 5port PCI-E USB card).

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/oculus

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:


Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/Sir_Amrstrong · 1 pointr/oculus

Just the Amazon Basic. Been working fine for me so far!

u/RoyMi6 · 1 pointr/oculus
u/Crush84 · 1 pointr/oculus

Ah damn was late in the night, didn´t read the question right. I use as an HDMI extender
as an USB extender. But really.... I had another 8 hour gaming event today, and all 27 games I showed WORKED perfectly!!! 5 minutes into The Climb, BAM, HDMI error, your headset could not be found, had to RESTART my pc! =(

u/diomark · 1 pointr/oculus

gtx1070 here. I bought the amazonbasics branded usb3 and hdmi 2.0 cables - these specific cables - they're working fine. (10ft) (9.8ft)


u/eVRydayVR · 1 pointr/oculus

I have. I used the included active USB extension cable in combination with a 9.8 ft Amazon Basic USB 3.0 extension cable to get all the way along the wall around to the back corner of my room. Oculus app reports no issues, it's green. Tracking isn't perfect but I figure that's mostly because the space is so big and I haven't set up a 4th sensor yet.

u/Deank125 · 1 pointr/osugame

Its 9.8ft according to Amazon. Either way, I ended up moving my PC to the other side of my desk, so now I just have a stupidly long cable for no reason.

u/mataushas · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

I'm planning on getting 15-18ft total for link.
I will buy this active 10ft extension: but I need another cable for another 5 or 8 feet. I saw some 10ft cables but they are ~$20. Are there shorter and cheaper cables that could work? I went through the spreadsheet and couldn't find anything cheaper on US amazon.

u/Jatilq · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

This Extension Cable works, and This one.


This USB-C cable did not work.



Gigabyte GA-Z270P-D3

Intel Core I7 6700 Gaming PC - 3.4GHz - 4GHz Quad Core - 32GB RAM - 1080 GTX 8GB



Dell 7577 i5 Max-Q GTX 1060, 16GB ram


Both worked no issues.

u/munja90x · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Here is a budget setup
1x HDMI Cable -
1x Logitech camera that will sit on top of your TV -
1x USB hub that will plug into users PC
1x USB cable extension for Camera to USB hub -
1x Yeti microphone -
1x USB Cable extension for Yeti microphone to USB hub -

Might have to get some stuff for cable management and get some cheap video adapters on Amazon, but this setup is like $300 max. Also, I would write up some good documentation and have it available in the room at all times. You will have to create some kind of documentation either way with any expensive solutions you find (Polycom trio, Logitech etc..).

u/rehpotsirhc123 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Try one of these to get extra power tot he drive maybe?

u/yamiyaiba · 1 pointr/Android

X-posting from /r/AndroidAuto

So, I just got a new Hyundai Sonata Hybrid with AA built in. It'll be nice to use it in-car rather than in a windshield mount on my phone. I've run into a old familiar problem however, with a modern twist.

The car's USB port only puts out a little bit of power, unsurprisingly. In the past, I ordered a power/data splitter like this to power the phone separately from a car charger. That was great on a phone that used MicroUSB and had lower power needs.

The issue now is that I'm using a Pixel XL with a USB C port. I just purchased a USB-PD friendly car charger a few weeks ago. I'd like to find a cable that'll let me power my phone separately from the USB-C port on my charger and run the data into ye olde USB port for AA.

If there isn't one with USB-C, at least a splitter that can handle the power draw of QC 2.0 or better, and I'll use a USB-A to USB-C cable.

u/CircadianPie · 1 pointr/AstroGaming

So I’m not 100% sure if this would work but I think so, anyways... you plug the USB end of the cable into the female port and the two male ports into the two computers. Here’s a link to the cable I’m thinking of so you get the right idea, you might need to find a longer one. HIGHROCK 30cm USB 2.0 a Power Enhancer Y 1 Female to 2 Male Data Charge Cable Extension Cord(1pc)

u/Waughmpwaughmp · 1 pointr/Xenoblade_Chronicles

Hey bro, I know nothing about your setup except what's in this post, so this might not be the cause at all, so take it or leave it. External HDD have trouble drawing enough power from one usb2.0 port on the WiiU, which can reportedly cause data speed issues. But, if you draw power from both WiiU usb2.0 ports with something like (, the HDD seems to keep up pretty well. It's a 3$ solution if the problem gets too annoying. Cheers!

u/kazuma_kun · 1 pointr/GoogleCardboard

Try this link

Also, what would I Google for that type of cable? I'm not getting any hits. I guess maybe this would work but it's just a splitter.

u/yoshisman8 · 1 pointr/WiiUHacks

the wiiU's usb ports emit a lower voltage than the wii, this one being insufficient to power most USB storage devices. you''ll need something like a USB y splitter to power it.

u/timesteel · 1 pointr/fightsticks

maybe use something like this with usb extensions if needed

u/ARJeepGuy123 · 1 pointr/crankshaft

Oh that's what cbxxxx was saying wasn't it. Have you done that? And it works? I thought usb chargers used the data wires to determine how much current to allow?

Edit- thanks for the advice, just ordered this Y cable that'll let me do exactly what you said. Hopefully that'll solve the problem

u/Patnet · 1 pointr/windowsphone

I'm not sure, but in case you don't know there are USB Y-connectors that will allow you to connect your device simultaneously to more than one charging port on a power bank. Many banks have both 2A and 1A ports, so with a connector you could charge at 3A.

Not a specific product recommendation, but I'm talking about this sort of thing (hopefully that works - posting over a flaky connection and can't check the link).

u/12345sixers109876ers · 1 pointr/PS4
u/grayblue21 · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

Buy these two things and put them together

Yeah but idk why on Earth you would ever need this. Charging would probably work, but data transfer would get really wonky with something like this.

u/supagold · 1 pointr/dishnetwork

Regarding the drives, most USB laptop drive enclosures should run from 500mA provided by a normal USB port, but if they're giving you an issue, you could always get a Y-adapter (something like this) and supplement with any wall-wart USB charger. Also, using a desktop drive in an enclosure with an external power supply should also work.

Also FWIW, I can't think of any codecs that require bitrates in multiples of 5Mb. In any event, it's probably just a guestimate where they're using different bitrates for different types of content, and this is where they think it nets out for a "typical" user.

u/mthode · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

something like this, but for usb-c would be what you want I think...

a usb-c hub might work too.

u/EXTRAsharpcheddar · 1 pointr/AndroidQuestions

Impossible, what kind of car do you have? Get one of these.

Don't want to mess with the hardware? I had a note 3 and had to fiddle with the GPS antenna. IIRC you could just bend the contact thereby reducing most of the power draw, I assume.

u/JasonInNJ · 1 pointr/hometheater

HIGHROCK 30cm USB 2.0 a Power Enhancer Y 1 Female to 2 Male Data Charge Cable Extension Cord(1pc)

u/mbaran · 1 pointr/cars

you could probably use that to plug the one end of the USB cable into the car, one end into a cigarette lighter to usb (provided there's one in the glove box) and then plug the lightning cable into the USB female side.

u/NessInOnett · 1 pointr/computers

You can get a dual input USB cable like this:

But no you cannot otherwise force extra power out of a USB port. That cable is designed specifically for your purpose.

u/hrkahn · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I had to supply additional power via a usb y cable to get android auto to work in both my cars. premium cables would eventually work after enough plugging and unplugging but this method works 100% of the time.

u/praetor- · 1 pointr/CarAV

USB cables have 4 conductors:

You could try to splice two cables into one, taking power from one source and data from another. Some devices require a data connection to negotiate a charging current, however, so this may lead to some unintended results.

You can also try this:

A powered hub might also work, though it depends on how Pioneer implemented USB within the headunit. The controller may not be able to implement the "bus" part.

u/SmellsLikeNostrils · 1 pointr/VoiceActing

Something like this or this.

Same idea. The advantage there over a powered USB hub is portability. Bring a battery pack and power the thing outdoors or in a remote space.

u/gellenburg · 1 pointr/Cyberpunk

USB Condoms are real and they work magnificently.:

PortaPow Fast Charge + Data Block USB Adaptor with SmartCharge Chip

u/cryptoengineer · 1 pointr/Whatisthis

You can buy 'USB Condoms' which only pass the power lines through. They're a good idea if you're expecting to power unknown devices, as in this case, or charge up your phone at an unknown public socket.

u/DontMentionWombats · 1 pointr/melbourne

In case anyone was wondering

Always a good idea to have along. Also, never plug your phone/tablet into an unknown/untrusted charging port without one, like at airports.

u/LittleBurbling · 1 pointr/london

These seem to work pretty well

u/desk_fan · 1 pointr/worldnews

Generic versions in the UK:



u/ShottyMcKeith · 1 pointr/CarPlay

I’m pretty sure there’s no setting that will do what you want. As an alternative, you could use a USB “condom” to let your phone charge without triggering CarPlay.

u/gotamd · 1 pointr/mazda

I use this and get around 750ma to 1amp, which is 50%+ better than without it (as measured by my phone...if I am remembering correctly):

I may be off in the numbers, but it makes a big difference. For example, my phone still actually charges while using Bluetooth and GPS when using that adapter. Before, it did not. Anyway, $7 is about the same (or cheaper) as a cigarette plug and in the case of the MX-5, which is my daily driver, it's a much better solution (my cigarette lighter outlet is in the passenger footwell, not on the dash).

u/Psalm-69 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Probably, but it depends. As far as I know, most anti-virus programs work by comparing the signature/hash of a program to a list of known virus signatures.

If all of the hackers made their own exploit it would be a lot harder to block as the signature of each would have to be added to the database so that the anti virus software can recognize it as a virus.

If there was just one virus/exploit that everyone passed around and placed on devices it would be much easier to block since they would all have the same signature.

For the truly paranoid, you could always purchase a small USB condom or make your own with some tape or some solder. I doubt anyone really has to worry about this, but it could happen and it isn't unique to ecigs.

u/gobie25 · 1 pointr/ireland
u/FizzyGizmo · 1 pointr/AndroidQuestions

Does your car also provide functionality to play music from your phone over this same usb port? If so you might find you get a faster charge by using a data blocking usb adapter like this :

u/whyamisosoftinthemid · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

If you're concerned about this (which is a legitimate concern), you can get a "USB condom" that will block data but allow charging.

u/xolieo · 1 pointr/technology

Portapow $7.99. Does the same thing.

u/CyFus · 1 pointr/AskNYC

Real store? I'm not sure but this works for me it tricks the phone to go into full charge mode so its pretty useful for those pesky power adapters that never seem to satisfy particular phones

u/gmoneygangster3 · 1 pointr/Games

i have one of the New 3ds XLs

I don't play it close to death normally because i charge my stuff at night, but when its dying its 4 hours to around 8 depending on how intensive the game is

The reason why its not a big deal for me, is because of it being USB-C

While its not the standard right now it is quickly becoming the standard power plug for phones

If i decide to get one i would only need to grab the system, but in whatever case/bag they have for it and walk out my front door.

I already have everything to charge/power it in my car

Its not like its the 3DS where i had to buy a power cord with a usb, and i have to remember to take that specific cord with me

With how quickly companies are adopting USB-C, biggest examples being samsung and google, by this time next year almost everyone who would buy a Switch will own a phone with USB C,

Just a quick amazon search gives me

Male usb A to male USB C

128 Gig micro sd card

and because i would need to do more research a portable power bank runs from 20-40 on amazon

So for everything you would buy for "on the go" it costs around 88 bucks.

The power bank can work with anything, so around half of that 88 would be for something you could use for litteraly anything that charges with a male usb A

Which comparing to what i can see being the closest thing we have now (PS Vita) a 64 gig storage card runs above 100 on the gamestop website and higher than that on amazon

u/enjineer30302 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Yeah. Imagine the fiasco if it was revealed that we got an extra hour of two of battery life while sacrificing the well-being of the consumer. Samsung didn't build in room for thermal expansion. The Switch's battery probably couldn't be much better with the size of the device and the things that it's powering. Also, it's USB-C, buy a power bank and a cheap USB-C cable, so you don't have to lug the Nintendo brick. Here, I'll even help you, Pananar:

u/Ramenstien · 1 pointr/GalaxyNote7

Okay, at this point is there and Type-C chargers that are recommended? This is the one I purchased from Amazon before realizing that there was an issue with the chargers.

u/basiliskfang · 1 pointr/lgv20

Cable Matters USB-C Cable (USB A to USB C Cable/USB C to USB Cable) in Black 3.3 Feet for Samsung Galaxy S9/S8/Note 8, LG G6/V30, Nintendo Switch, Google Pixel/Nexus 5X/6P and More

[3-Pack] Quick Charge 3.0, FONKEN 18W USB Wall Charger Adapter Smart IC for Compatible with Samsung Galaxy S7 S6, Note 5/4, LG G5 V10, Nexus 6,HTC 10, Qualcomm Certified Comply with UL 60950-1 (Black)

u/gergyhead · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

I purchased 2 of these cables from Amazon and have had no issues with them. My monitor has a rapid charging port and these cables work flawlessly. Bought a second cause the first was so good.

u/VirtualLife76 · 1 pointr/onebag

USB to USB-C cables. Like:

All my devices came with one.

u/drfsupercenter · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

Update: I bought the Cable Matters cable because it looked nice and thin and was cheap. The specs say it does NOT do fast charging or work with the Switch. I suspected that was wrong... and I'm right!

It does fast charging just fine with my Aukey QC2.0 car charger.

I'm getting the idea that most of these have only tested to meet the 2.4A spec required by USB-IF or whatever and that they just didn't bother to test further. Doesn't mean it WON'T work, though.

I'm noticing the specs say it goes up to 2640mA (2.64A). According to Wikipedia, QC2.0 only uses 2A - it's just a higher voltage (9V 2A rather than 5V 2A). Obviously current without voltage is a meaningless measurement, but I digress.

The Nintendo Switch uses a much higher power, I don't have my official charger at work to look at but I want to say it's like 15V 3A for 45W compared to the 18W QC2.0 uses. So if these thin cables can't power a Switch, that's totally understandable.

I'm also pleased with how thin the Cable Matters cable is. The rubbery feel is a bit...strange, but it's like half as thick as the Aukey cable. So that's a good thing.

Edit: Weird, the description now mentions the Galaxy S8 (though nothing about fast charging) and the Switch. I swear a couple weeks ago it said it doesn't support fast charge or the Switch. Looking at an archived version from 2015 shows they changed the design at least once, and that old one only did 1.5A charging. So I guess they updated it for new devices and that's what I got - can't say I mind, though!

u/_risho_ · 1 pointr/TREZOR

it offers benefit even for the trezor. the cable is reversible. meaning that you won't have to fidget with the cable and the port and make sure it is aligned the right way. it's more convenient than it seems. even if you ignore that there's still reason to release it with usb c. it's the future. just like how micro usb replaced mini usb. how many mini usb devices are you using these days? probably not many. as time goes on micro usb will be used less and less and everything will just use usb c by default. for the longevity and convenience of the product it would be better to use usb c.

on top of that if it is designed like the original trezor it will just be a female usb port on the device, meaning it shouldn't cause any inconvenience for you at all. the cable will probably come in the box. usb c to usb a.

they may even provide both a usb c to usb c and a usb c to usb a cable meaning that you can plug it into your usb c only macbook or your 5 year old desktop.

there's nothing but upside and no downside for it to offer usb c.

u/airplanehitchhiker · 1 pointr/gaming
u/bxtdvd · 1 pointr/blackmagicdesign

The Ursa Mini Pro uses a USB-C connection.

This cable (or similar) should get the job done:

u/TemptedTemplar · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

you wont even need a type C port on the bank; you should be just fine a cable like this, but you will need a powerbank that supports quick charging to get the proper Amps.

u/Malix82 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

you could use just a straight usb-a <--> usb-c cable, such as

Thats how I connect my nexus 5x to my pc :)

u/IAmARobot_Friend · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/drewschbag666 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Confused about USB-C cables. If i bought a USB-C cable on Amazon and plug it into a brick that goes into the wall to charge my switch, will it hurt the switch? Should i stick to the charger that came with it?

This is the cord:

u/erixtyminutes · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I bought this cable for $6 and use it with an iPad power brick. Works perfect and was super cheap.

u/Archvile7 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

Have you tried a different cable?

I've not had AA crash once on my P2XL.

EDIT - This is the cable I am using

u/Nukdae · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Any USB type C cable should work. I bought this particular cable and have had no problems:

u/MrMischiefVIP · 1 pointr/nintendo

it's just a usb-a to usb-c cable. The link is below but really I picked it because it was one of the cheapest ones with decent ratings on amazon.

u/thegodsarepleased · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

No, but I was probably just going to plug this charger into the adapter. I also bought this as a backup.

I don't really know the first thing about adapters, chargers, etc. so feel free to call me out if I made a mistake there. I still have a few more days to make another purchase before the trip.

u/Lysergicide · 1 pointr/technology

That's alright if you don't understand it very well, it's not really something most people deal with regularly on a technical level. Not exactly a hot topic at parties.

AES is the standard and will protect your important information; they didn't call it the Advanced Encryption Standard for nothing (though it's based off of the Rijndael cipher). There are of course other ciphers like Twofish which offer essentially equally strong security. Poor implementations of these are what make them potentially unsafe, but that's the case with any form of encryption.

Something like an encrypted hard drive or file that you can create with a tool like VeraCrypt (a well maintained fork of TrueCrypt) if you use a strong enough password (something long 16 characters of more, with a variety of letters, numbers and symbols, that doesn't use $ubSt1tuT3d p4tt3rNs) using AES will still protect your data at rest extremely well.

If you use an offline password manager like KeePassXC and sync it with Dropbox, Box or Google Drive, you can generate really long, completely random passwords with a lot of entropy (higher the entropy, the better). Then you would only ever need to really remember one really long random password, for your encrypted drives and you can then have a uniquely generated long password for every one for them, as well as online accounts.

The insecurity is usually not by breaking the algorithm or brute forcing it. If someone really wanted at your data, they're more likely to break into your residence or office, threaten you physically for the keys, install a hardware keylogger to steal the key or if your computer is running it can be fairly trivial to extract the key from memory.

Honestly though, unless some state actor is targeting you, for a reasonable level of security try to follow best practices like these:

  • Use an offline password manager like KeePassXC which you can sync the file to all your devices. Never reuse passwords, ever.
  • Encrypt your home computer or laptop with VeraCrypt which is easy enough to do with a graphical interface that guides you through the process for Windows. Linux users should use Cryptsetup/LUKS and macOS users should use FileVault at minimum. If you lose your computer or have it stolen this should at least prevent common thieves from getting at your data.
  • Make sure your phone is encrypted. Most modern Android and iPhone devices are by default. Use a password on those instead of a PIN, pattern or the unlock options.
  • Use multi-factor authentication for all your online accounts if there are options to do so. That way even if your password is compromised, the attacker wouldn't be able to provide additional factors, like an OTP security token (you know when you get an email verification code for instance).
  • Use/buy a router with decent security and firewall. Disable any inbound traffic and UPnP (which can be abused to open up ports).
  • Make sure your browser is using an ad-blocker like uBlock Origin for Chrome (plus Extra) or Firefox which will block dodgy sites and malware from loading as well.
  • Keep your devices patched and up to date.
  • Try to avoid using or doing anything sensitive on open WiFi networks, unless you have a VPN service you can use.
  • Don't plug any devices into those USB chargers at malls, airports and other places unless you have some kind of USB condom that blocks the data channels.

    I hope you can use that information to better secure your devices and accounts. It's not as difficult to improve your security posture as most people think, just requires a little bit of reading and investigation without even getting too deep into it technically.
u/Gruggleberries · 1 pointr/perth

I thought the same when I saw these - the covers would be trivial to remove and even easier to put a cheap 3D printed cover on it with malware or a capacitor to blow up phones.

Something like this could stop malware pretty easy if you frequently charge from mystery sources. But then again, if you are going to carry a saftey adapter and need to charge frequently, you may as well carry a lipstick sized powerbank.

u/doogm · 1 pointr/iphone

So I’m thinking that for a super-majority of the people, the current behavior is fine and Apple has no reason to change it. Even for super-nerdy reddit users. But, let Apple know about it, maybe they will change it.

Another idea is see if you can find a charging-only lightning cable. Not sure that anybody makes one, but somebody might. Or something like this:

u/THE_CENTURION · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

Have you even read the comments you're replying to?

Let me break this down for you;

Yes, you're correct that there can be hazards hidden in public USB chargers. We all know that, that's why we're here talking about it.

What the people above are saying is that there's a product, often known as a USB condom, that protects you from that type of attack by only allowing the power connections through. With this kind of a product it is literally impossible for a malicious charger to steal data or infect your phone because the data lines aren't even connected.

It is still possible that someone could use a USB killer type device to fry your phone. But there's no profit in that so it's probably a less likely attack. I bet someone out there makes a USB condom with fuses to protect against that too.

u/otakunopodcast · 1 pointr/ender3

Thought of that first. but couldn't for the life of me find anything like that on amazon. Only thing I could find was dongles like this which let power through but NOT data, which is completely useless in this case.

u/Mikuro · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

It is an adapter that blocks data transfer between a USB port and your cable, leaving only the power pins connected. So you can connect your phone to a potentially compromised port (think airports) without the risk of your device getting hacked.

There is an actual product called the USB Condom, as well as similar products like PortaPow's Data Blocker. I have the one from PortaPow, and it works pretty well. The downside is that most (all?) fast-charging standards negotiate via data, so these devices limit you to ordinary charge speeds.

I have not personally used it with my Pixel, since these days my on-the-go charging is taken care of with my own portable power bank.

u/mwaldron · 1 pointr/apple

Something is seriously mesed up with Chevy's MyLink and iOS 9.2.

See this thread. It seems like Apple is blaming GM, but it worked perfectly fine in iOS 9.1 and prior versions so I don't really care who's technical fault it is, Apple caused it to break.

As for preventing the USB, I put one of these in line with the USB port to solve that problem. I'm not sure that's a great solution though, I think I'm just going to put my 2.1A charger back into my power outlet and use that.

u/TenuredOracle · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

USB-A is just the plain USB connection, where USB-C is a reversible, smaller connection. Here's an example of a cord.

u/MariaKimi · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

iOrange USB type c cables got a good review by Benson. Braided cable is durable.

When I scanned Monoprice USB 2.0 USB-C Male to USB-A Male Cable, it said

> USB 3.1 SuperSpeed+ supports up to 10Gbps data rate

It's not USB 3.1, only USB 2.0.

You can check what cables Benson recommended.

u/phero1190 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I have a few of these cables and they're fantastic. They have a little spring around the cable where it meets the usb part to help prevent fraying. Great quality cable in my opinion and they support fast charging and fast data transfer.

u/WizDuck · 1 pointr/nexus5x
u/g_schrage52 · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

Looks like i-Orange dropped their price via Amazon.

6′ Nylon Braided USB A to C Cable
Quantity: 1-pack
Color: Black/Gold/Silver
Price: $12.99
Sale: $8.99

10′ Nylon Braided USB A to C Cable
Quantity: 1-pack
Color: Gold/Silver
Price: $18.99
Sale: $8.99
Code: 4N782S69

3.3′ Nylon Braided USB A to C Cable
Quantity: 1-pack
Color: Gold
Price: $12.49
Sale: $7.99
Code: X2FA67L2

1′ Nylon Braided USB A to C Cable
Quantity: 1-pack
Color: Black/Gold/Silver
Price: $12.99
Sale: $6.99

u/leffer00 · 1 pointr/nexus5x

It's USB 2.0: iOrange-e is that the problem? Needs to be USB 3?

u/K1774B · 1 pointr/nexus5x

Just get one of those two.

I have a 1ft. Cambond and the 6 ft. I-Orange. Both are super high quality and Benson approved.

u/ImperialAgent · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

I bought this cable for backup. USB C - USB A and I haven't had any issues with it.

u/Alexranes · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

Will do. I ordered this cable yesterday, it's not from ankr but cables are not as important as the adapter.

u/dandrayan · 1 pointr/windowsphone

My 950XL flipped out for a few hours after I connected it to my Surface Book and got a "Power Surge" notification on the desktop's USB port. It refused to connect to anything via USB for the rest of the night, but the next morning I woke up and it was able to connect normally again. The notification has been inconsistent, but so far it only happens occasionally on the SB and only when it's unplugged from the wall. No problems with any of my other USB-C cables connecting to other devices since that first time. I've been happy with a few of these: Type C, iOrange-E™ 6.6 Ft (2M) Braided Cable

u/vahdyx · 1 pointr/oculus

I'm not sure myself but I bought

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

I will let you know if it works on Tuesday along with my PCI-E USB card.

u/Vagrant_Charlatan · 1 pointr/Vive

They ship the 3rd and 4th sensors with a 16 foot USB 2.0 extension, but the other two sensors are 3.0 with no JPEG compression. It's hard to notice the difference between 2.0 and 3.0 tracking, but 16 foot active extensions are like $14 on Amazon so you can go all 3.0 if you want.

u/TheSpartanKing1 · 1 pointr/oculus

You can't have more than a couple feet onto the Rift (not oculus) cords. However on the sensors, I would recommend these cables

u/Lancks · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

USB is the harder one. You'll need a very good mobo or an extension card (at least PCIE x4 to support the needed bandwidth/power). For the cable, an active extension cable worked for me - a passive cable would not.

Edit: I used this cable, but it does still give me static if I try to use headphones. Otherwise it works great.

u/19950721 · 1 pointr/mixedreality

I got my usb to 16 feet with this.

But what coupler are you using for hdmi? I cant get mine past 5 feet.

u/ThatPancreatitisGuy · 1 pointr/OculusQuest
u/trebell · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Got this working great with an amazon basics cable


Works so well. My GPU is a 1070 and all is good thus far. what a great boost to the Quest to have access to full PC VR.

u/natemac · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Works for me "AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-A 3.1 Gen 1 Charger Cable | 10 feet"

u/m0rtm0rt · 1 pointr/buildapc

If I were to use one of these with one of those small bluetooth adapters, would the case interfere with the signal?

I don't really intend to be very far from my case at all, since I'll only be using it while I'm sitting at my desk, but I hate that god-awful blue LED. Lights up my whole damn bedroom, and it still blinks when the computer is off!

u/TechnicalErrors · 1 pointr/buildapc

If the problem is attaching it to an outer USB port, you could try something like this and attach the adapter to an internal header. I'm not sure how it would interfere with the signal, though- all I've got is a personal anecdote that I've done it with an aluminum case with no issues.

u/digitaljohn · 1 pointr/hackintosh

Thanks for the input. I'm looking for something to replace my laptop so it being super tiny is really important.

I'm actually thinking of wiring up an internal USB WiFi module using a cable like this... 6in USB 2.0 Cable - USB A Female to USB Motherboard 4 Pin Header F/F

u/falkentyne · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Would this also work?
I honestly don't know what size the molex connector is.
But then you can use a USB A male to male extension cable

I know the Qanba one will work just from eyeballing it, but I don't know if the keyed molex is 1.25mm or 1.5mm.
I'm not an expert in any sort of connection stuff. The main difficulty is getting the proper size connector that is also keyed. I don't know what that connector type or size is called or it would be easier to search.

This isn't keyed but is labeled: Would THIS work?

Note that there are two grounds instead of one on the original cable, but this should still work. The second ground is a shield wire.
You'll notice that the Qanba cable has two grounds on it, but I'm using that cable on this PCB that only has one ground connector:

Again I know nothing about this, so I don't know if the amazon one with one ground will work (as long as you plug it into the correct pins). Maybe I'm causing more harm than I'm helping though.

USB A to 5 pin JST.

u/hineybush · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you have an open USB header on your mobo, you could use one of these:

u/bcarlzson · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you parents run a business what do you do to prevent data loss? I would think with the PC running the books you'd want a backup stored somewhere offsite. I recommend just using a simple dropbox account.

Here's another tip I did for my Mom who is terrible with computers so she wouldn't lose her digital pictures. I put a USB 2.0 header like this inside the PC and plugged in a 32gb Flash drive. I created a simple batch file and set it to run once a week. It copies all the files from the folder her shitty Kodak software saves pictures to the flash drive. This way she is backing up and she doesn't even know it.

u/MusclesLinguine · 1 pointr/homelab

Good call on the 3.5" bays. Regardless, I think you will be fine to start out with 2 or 4 3.5" bays :). Down the line, you could expand your storage options with a NAS. There is plenty of time for that.

I think one way to get both ESXi and HyperV experience is to deploy a HyperV instance inside of a ESXi VM. That way, you get to experience both. There are a few articles about doing this out there, here is one.

ESXi is relatively easy to get started with especially since they have a slick web GUI for it now (as of ESXi 6.0 Update 2). It would probably help to get some experience with the older vSphere client (since that is still kicking around). vSphere Client is a Windows application. It is going to go away eventually, but it does not hurt to have some familiarity with it.

Starting with ESXi is not too different than other hypervisors. You can download the free hypervisor here. You can burn that ISO to a CD or put it on a USB stick. If you are going to throw it on a USB stick, I would recommend using Rufus because it makes the process of putting the ISO on a USB stick much easier. Once that is booted up, it will start the installer. Follow the prompts, and you are good to go. Since you do not have a ton of SATA ports to spare, you may want to consider putting ESXi on a USB stick of its own (not the one you use to install it). I do not know if the Z400 has an internal USB A port, but if not, you could convert a front panel header into a USB A port with something like this. Putting ESXi on a USB stick frees up a SATA port for whatever storage solution you want to have.

To manage it, you can use the slick GUI (I believe you can just navigate to https://<IP of ESXi box>/ui) or vSphere Client, available here. VM operations are very similar to what you are used to with VirtualBox. From there, you can branch out to the aspects of the hypervisor that are interesting to you. Some of the features will likely require the vSphere Appliance (which costs money), but you can cross that bridge when you get there.

u/xKYLERxx · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Maybe it's a power problem like someone mentioned further up in the thread. You could try a flash drive big enough for the OS and everything. If it works, send back your SATA card and get an internal USB port. People do this a lot for FreeNAS configurations. I dont know how Windows would feel about it.

u/bestjejust · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Just use something like this:

...and put the receiver into your chassis

edit: sorry, misunderstood... of course you need at least the wireless adapter for USB.

u/jrizz43 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Just grabbed one of these and installed it on one of my open usb headers on my mobo. I then connected the usb extension cable that comes with the xbox wireless dongle and routed it through the back of my case, out the front by the fans and double sided taped it with the sync button up so I can sync more controllers and the indicator LED is facing out on it too :)

u/Network_operations · 1 pointr/mechmarket

Something like this:

but it would only be reasonable with the pcb plate option

u/ultradip · 1 pointr/Atomic_Pi

It's a standard motherboard header for USB. A cable like this would work just fine:

If you have a spare left over from an old motherboard, that would work as well.

u/nesnalica · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I only know one PCIe wifi+bt card.

i dont know if there is a USB combo however you can buy two seperate USB dongles and maybe even a USB Hub. if you never remove the dongles and have spare internal USB headers you can also use cables like this and hide the dongles inside your computer. the signal strength will suffer a little due to the pc chassis shielding it however for normal use itll be sufficient.

u/mattbuford · 1 pointr/btrfs

Possible workaround: Put /boot on a flash drive.

Both of my home machines have something like this inside and connected to the motherboard's USB header:

And attached to that is just a regular old USB thumb drive to serve as my /boot. This was originally done so that I could have /boot be on something other than my raid6 array and I wouldn't have to worry about having /boot copied on multiple disks in the array or anything like that. It lets me keep the array's disks simple and disposable. Only one array, only one partition (or no partitions) on every disk.

Since /boot gets very little writing, even cheap USB flash drives tend to last forever. Just dd a full image of the flash drive somewhere safe occasionally just in case it dies. I've been doing this since 2009 or so, and haven't had a flash drive die yet, but I did mysteriously lose a motherboard's header port and had to move that flash drive to be external.

Flash drives with USB header connectors right on them do exist, but I decided it was easier to just use the cheap adapter cable and then be able to use any random flash drive I had lying around. That way, if one dies, I'm not scrambling to find an immediate replacement of an obscure item.

Back when motherboards still had legacy IDE ports that were never used anymore, I used to use this sort of adapter for /boot on a compactflash card:

u/Fabricated_Cake · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Wow, BIG thanks for that bit of keyboard science! Depicting the disassembly is also really useful and complements the write-up in your review. I was actually wondering about this when I found out about the RK's internal port 1-2 months ago but this being such a niche within a niche, I never thought I'd get an answer, haha.

That USB connector looks similar to those that you would find on motherboards for the front panel USB ports, but with one row instead of two. Were the wire assignments labelled? Or would any adaptor work as long as it has 5 pins with matching colours? This one from Amazon only has 4 pins though I'm not sure how necessary that 5th pin is.

Only issue now is how to route the adaptor through that rear cable shield. From the pics, it looks like the shield is just slotted into place and can be lifted up? Otherwise I'd probably have to drill a hole through.

Suddenly ABKO has become a very viable option for me as it ticks so many boxes, except my preferred 75% layout and bluetooth (my endgame doesn't exist). Hopefully Topre steps up their game and starts offering more features. Not sure if I still want to wait for the V2 in 55g though, as now that I've tried the 660C and HHKB, I can say that the heavier Topre on the 660C isn't always preferable.

u/cob50nm · 1 pointr/Guitar

Not sure I would call 1 usb cable a ton, and the interface doesnt have to go on the desk, you could put it on your tower?

I'm not convinced that what you're looking for actually exists.

As an alternative, if you're ok with a bit of modding, then a Focusrite Scarlett Solo should fit in a 5.25" bay and you could run the usb out the back directly into a usb headder with one of these

u/barrett_g · 1 pointr/Atomic_Pi

Yes sorry I wasn’t clear enough. I know where it’s at on the board... but what type of plug do I buy to plug into it?

This is the closest I have found... but it’s only a 4 pin. Will it work if I just offset it one pin? 6in USB 2.0 A to USB 4 Pin to Motherboard Header Adapter F/F - USB cable - USB (F) to 4 pin USB 2.0 header (F) - USBMBADAPT

u/brad_4116 · 1 pointr/freenas
u/L4MI4 · 1 pointr/GAAB350

A bit late, but here are some questions.
Have you returned the motherboard or RMA'd it?

Do you have something of this sort?

If you do, then please try plugging the 4 pin connector to first, at the top of one usb 2 header, then at the bottom of the same header. Try this with both headers and this would definitely help isolate the issue to either a fault in the headers or some sort of problem in the case's front panel usb 2.0 wiring.

Anyways, this is a hardware issue of some sort, just quite tricky to determine whether both usb 2.0 headers have either the upper half or lower half pins not working, or some plug issue in the case wire itself.

Do let me know if you do it.

Edit: formatting.


This would be a better and easier way. Just put this into one header, check both ports working or not, then the other.

u/BILLY_BOB88 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

TedGem USB LED Light Strip with Velcro tape, TV Backlighting, Bias Lighting for HDTV USB LED Strip with Remote Control and
StarTech USB A to USB Motherboard 4-Pin Header F/F 2.0 Cable, 6" (USBMBADAPT)

u/thirtysevenfaux · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

You can just buy a short USB header cable like this to keep it internal.

u/King_Chrispen · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I actually just bought this LED strip off of Amazon. It isn't anything spectacular, but it fit my needs length wise and color. I only really wanted white in the beginning anyway. I just have it plugged into my motherboard with one of these. It works well and was much cheaper.

u/smilinsuchi · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

This will do perfectly fine if you have no rgb header on your mother board but it take an usb header so will probably also need that

u/Zomgitssoup · 1 pointr/speedrun

Sounds like to me you are having a issue with " ghost USB devices "

Windows as you know should update drivers and install them on their own. If you go to " Device Manager " on your pc ( which either is found in the control panel or typing devmgmt.msc in run ) and under the view tab you should see something labeled " Show hidden devices ". Click that option to see all the hidden devices on your pc. One of the last options on the manager should be " Universal serial bus controllers " If you have any " Ghost Usb drivers " they should be grayed out there. Uninstall all the ones that are labeled " unknown device" What happens when you get " Ghost Usbs " for example when you connect a mouse and Windows doesn’t properly install the drivers for you it keeps the failed install of the driver on your pc. Sometimes this can cause conflicts when trying to install the proper drivers and prevent windows from installing the proper driver.

The only other thing i can think of is the firmware version is messed up of your capture card. Try to uninstall the version you have on your pc and install a older version of firmware if you can find it.

If either of those doesn't work at all then its the device. i recommend The GV-USB2 as a capture device. I have used it for over 2-3 years without any issues at all. Hopefully your issue gets fixed. Best of luck

u/P1kas · 1 pointr/SSBM

Are you playing on a CRT with composite? If so, then you can use a GV-USB2

Many speedrunners seem to think that's one of the best ones out there for S-Vid/Composite

Here is a sample of how the footage looks:

u/mav6771 · 1 pointr/Twitch


These setups are using what's called a capture card. The way it works (in most simple cases) is a signal comes from a console, goes into a splitter, then one of the outputs goes to the TV, another to the capture card.

There are many many MANY video standards and when it comes to capture you're most likely either going to be working with composite, S-video, and HDMI. There's YPbPr and RGB too but you're most likely not going to use those.

For composite / svideo (pretty much all home consoles up from the 1990's (where most used RF) until the mid 2000's): I'd recommend the GV-USB2.

Sadly I don't do much HD capture so I don't have any resources for that.

So you get your console, split the signal into two using some of these (and something like this for s-video) have one output going to the TV for the yellow/s-video (video) and audio (red and white).

Here's a visual I made for a friend a few years ago, very similar.

Then there's the capture software, sadly I really can't go to in depth in this small reddit post. Some people like doing all the image processing necessary right in OBS, some people (like me) use amarec because it allows better control over the image.

Sorry this is rushed, can't really write too much right now. I found this video which seems to have good information.

My capture set up is huge now (multiple consoles modded for better video, matrix switches, component (not RGB because SCART is mad expensive) setups) but I'm just gave the bare essentials for how I started streaming on my consoles.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions

u/Adastras · 1 pointr/Twitch

If you want a pretty cheap and surprisingly good one, the GV-USB2 works exceedingly well. I've tested NES, SNES, PS1 and PS2 on it using S-Video and it has looked great in all of them. It's not as great as a Framemeister, but then it's 10% of the cost of a Framemeister.

u/SirGrodus · 1 pointr/Twitch

You have a couple of options. These are the things you will absolutely need:

  1. A capture card - For PS2, I highly recommend this one. It is the best SD USB card for the price.

  2. The right AV cables. For a sharper image, use S-Video instead of the yellow composite video. For S-Video, you'll need a cable such as this one You don't have to use S-Video, but if you're going to stream, I recommend it.

  3. A powered splitter - This is to take the video from the console and pipe it to two different sources, your capture card and your TV. I have two of these splitters and they work wonderfully. You will only need one. It is a one-in, four-out splitter, so two of your outputs will remain unused unless you have another source you need the video to go to.

  4. AV cables to go from the outputs on your splitter to the TV and capture card. For the connection from the first output to your capture card, you can use a standard male-male S-Video cable. For the second output that goes to your TV, it just depends on what kind of TV you have. If you're playing PS2, I recommend using a higher-end CRT, in which case you can just use male-male composite cables. If you TV has a native S-Video port, then just get a second male-male S-Video cable.

  5. A PC that can handle streaming - I know this sounds vague, but you wouldn't believe how many people attempt to stream even SD consoles with a GV-USB2 on laptops pre-2010. When OBS or XSplit is open and streaming, your processor will be in use. If you do not have a decent processor, streaming will bog your PC down.

    That's about all I can think of. It's daunting at first when you're trying to imagine how everything would be set up, but I promise it's not as difficult as it sounds. If you have any other questions, just reply here and I'll do my best to answer.
u/cheeseCloud · 1 pointr/Twitch

This is what I use to capture the composite output for NES, SNES, and GameCube.

This is what I use to split the output of the console (1 to the TV and 1 to the gv usb2).

Edit: changed component to composite because I had a lapse of thinking when I wrote it initially

u/UmberPhyris · 1 pointr/Twitch

According to SpeedRunsLive, the go-to capture card for non-HD consoles is available on Amazon, if you are capable of ordering anything online.

u/iidxred · 1 pointr/Twitch

I-o DATA USB connection video capture GV-USB2

Looks like the price has gone up a little bit, but still not bad for under $40. Just keep in mind that you'll want a powered composite splitter with any composite capture device so you don't get screen dimming/muddy picture. There's a radio shack branded one on Amazon for $20 that splits 1 to 4, which is excellent for me because I play a lot of light gun games on stream and the Guncons require composite video to work.

u/ladyliayda · 1 pointr/Twitch

would I get that as well as the hdmi cable or instead of?

edit: heres what I found on amazon
this is what you meant, yes?

u/SightNero · 1 pointr/originalxbox

I use Elgato HD60 (not the new S variant) for PS2, PS3, PS4 and Wii. Whenever pound decides to makes a new version of the hdmi cable for OG Xbox then I'll be using it on there as well. For the consoles without an HDMI output I use a converter/upscaler (component to HDMI). If you want to capture from from a PS3/PS4 you need a HDCP stripper:
The viewHD splitter I've had for over 4 years with no issue.

Just so you know if you plan on using the PS2 with a converter or upscaler while playing 240p games (Megaman X Collection) you need FMCB with GSM to "upscale" the game to a resolution supported by Elgato HD60 (and perhaps your TV).

Alternatively, I see a lot of speedrunners on twitch use for capturing from Genesis, SNES, Dreamcast etc.

u/authorblues · 1 pointr/retrogaming

The standard elgato may not be a great choice for twitch, since there is a ~2 second delay that can be a bit of an annoyance.

You basically need:
A capture card
GV-USB2 is pretty great quality for SD, but installing the drivers is entirely in japanese. They're pretty easy to figure out by just hitting random buttons and guessing, but people have made guides for "hit these buttons in this order". Once you set it up, it'll work perfectly from then on. The Dazzle DVC 100 used to be a pretty common choice, but I think the GV-USB2 is honestly better (I have a Dazzle, and even I'll admit the GV-USB2 is better).

As far as a splitter/switch, unpowered splitter cables would be fine, such as these plugged into the side of your NES, just make sure you get RCA cables that match up to go to your TV and to your capture card. If you want to get the best picture quality, a powered splitter/switch like this one will give a slightly better picture and will give you room to hook up more consoles as well (since it is a switch as well).

As for software, the standard entry-level streaming software is OBS, and for free software, it honestly is pretty great. If you want to spend money, there's some other good stuff out there, but OBS does everything you'd probably want to do. If you want something a bit better for a timer than your iPhone, try LiveSplit. You can setup splits to keep track of your pace (though considering how short the WR is, just a basic timer is probably fine, this will just allow you to let people watching on youtube or twitch see your timer too).

If you need any help otherwise, let me know.

u/ChrisRK · 1 pointr/Twitch

If you just want something cheap, about any USB capture dongle will do.

I have heard good things about the I-o DATA capture device and the reviews says it works natively with OBS. You won't get any HD video from it but it will work fine with your WiiU if you have the composite video cables (yellow, red and white cables)

If you want to go even cheaper you're on your own. There are USB capture cards on amazon that's less than 10 dollars but I cannot guarantee it will work with your Windows version or OBS.

u/TheNatch · 1 pointr/Twitch

I use a GV-USB2. It's a Japanese capture card, setup is a tad tricky but I paid $40. Has worked flawlessly for two years

u/Lizardguy64 · 1 pointr/Twitch

I actually know a good RCA to USB adapter on Amazon. It's Japanese, but as long as your computer has a CD drive, installation is self explanatory (though you can google it too). I'll include the link to help.

u/KwyjiboTheGringo · 1 pointr/Fighters

Many streamers who speedrun SNES and N64 games use this:

I have one and it's pretty good. The only downside is that the driver is in Japanese, but it's still pretty easy to install.

Or you can use a Dazzle, which won't be as good but would be cheaper. Whatever you do, I would definitely not recommend getting some $10 AV capture device. I had one and they are pretty bad.

u/Mirrormn · 1 pointr/answers

Sort of depends what you mean by "stream well", what content you're streaming, and how serious you are about the whole endeavor. Some top streamers that play modern competitive PC games use two computers, both with very high specs, because it gives them the best FPS to eke out a competitive edge. On the other hand, there are people who just buy a $30 capture card and use whatever old PC to stream themselves playing analog console games. They don't get famous, or a ton of money (usually), but they have a good time.

If you just want to stream for fun, it's very easy to get started. If you want to build an audience, a name for yourself, cashflow, etc., then it's much harder. Being a professional streamer is essentially running a business - you're an independent celebrity and video producer. But if you're not worried about all that, all you really need is a capture card (if you're playing games) or camera (if you're vlogging), and any reasonably modern computer.

u/cfmat · 1 pointr/nes

Ok, the absolute cheapest way to record gameplay is probably buying a used DVD recorder from a thrift shop. You can get them nowadays for $5-$10 (especially look for DVD recorders that also have a VCR built in, they often get priced even lower for some reason). Then you'll need some blank DVD-Rs, which are like 10 cents a piece in a spindle. Basically, what you do is take your output from your AV switch into the DVD recorder, then the recorder outputs to TV. Record to discs then rip the discs on a computer when you have the footage you want. This ripped DVD video can then be used in most video editing programs, or just straight put online, etc. That's actually how the large majority of AVGN episodes got gameplay footage, incidentally.

The downside is having to deal with discs and the extra time involved in ripping, you also can't livestream with this setup. It can be nice to have the burned DVD as a backup though.

Second cheapish option, use a USB capture card to your PC and composite splitters. Basically, you buy a good USB capture card for about $30: I-o DATA USB connection video capture GV-USB2

There is a cheaper device, like $10 to $15, called EZ Cap, but the more expensive one has much better quality.

Then you buy AV splitters for under $10 like these: Cable Matters 5-Pack, Gold Plated RCA Split Adapter

Though annoyingly you'll need 6 of those little things, not 5. You'll also need two extra sets of those red/yellow RCA cables, possibly one very long one depending on where your computer is located.

Essentially, you plug the output from your switch into those little splitters, then run one RCA cord out of them to the TV, and the other to the capture device plugged into your computer. Then while you play on the TV, you can record on your computer.

Downside of this method, splitting the cable can result in a bit dimmer video signal, depending on how your TV handles it. Also, extra cable has to be dealt with, and if you don't have a computer nearby may be impossible.

Hope that makes sense. It's a bit of a pain, but not crazy expensive at least.

u/asiansgonewild · 1 pointr/techsupport

That model doesn't support VHS to DVD. I personally use a GV-USB to do VHS captures. There are better options but this one has a good value.

u/A_lost_10mm_socket · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I was already looking at the GV usb2 (this one) that they mention about 12 minutes in. However I'm concerned about it using some copyright protection and not recording tapes over 20 years old. I don't know if this is a thing or not, but my mom, who wants me to do this for her and is paying for this, read somewhere that that's a thing. Also because that's a Japan import it can't really be returned since we'd only get back like $10 because of shipping.

u/Kaptinkillem · 1 pointr/SSBM

I'm probably going to be buying this capture card:

But im really confused about what kind of splitters I should buy. Most guides say that I should get s-video splitter, and a auidio + svideo cable that comes from the wii. Is there another option? Because If I wanna take it to a tournament then I would need to bring s-video cables for gamecube and wii and would only be able to use it on tvs that have svideo

u/cougardraven · 1 pointr/letsplay

When I record from an N64 (or anything that's composite-only), I use a GV-USB2. When I record anything component or higher, I use a Roxio Gamecap HD Pro.

u/GBrecharge · 1 pointr/retrogaming

This capture device is far superior for composite/s-video than the Elgato in my experience, and much less fuss. I understand you may not want to purchase a whole new device for streaming but if you plan on streaming more retro consoles (especially if any have S-video) this thing is worth a look.

u/resonantt · 1 pointr/wiiu

USB Sticks are generally fine I think, but if its a Harddrive it needs both power and data lines.

For reference I have one of these

but you need one of these cables.

u/DonSerrot · 1 pointr/wiiu

For the particular drive I was given all I needed to do was get a different USB cable because the Wii U didn't provide enough power from a single USB port. Never had a problem with it after that.

u/TNAKK · 1 pointr/wiiu

Well I wouldn't have to use the enclosure if I just got a portable external HDD. Right? I could just use something like this and this cause I am confused what kind of Y cable to get because they are all different.

u/edge000 · 1 pointr/wiiu

If you have an old laptop that you don't use anymore - you can take the hard drive out, and put it in a usb enclosure. That works like a charm. I've done this three times - once on my hacked Wii, my WiiU and my Nvidia Shield TV.

Here's a link for a Y cable to use with it.

u/illinoisadvertising · 1 pointr/gaming
u/abxyz4509 · 1 pointr/wiiu

Here are some Amazon links if you want:


External Hard Drive. I use the older version of this one and it has held up. The reviews for this version say it works as well.

u/Coreyhustle · 1 pointr/WiiHacks

Do you have a usb y cable for your hard drive? Some hard drives can’t draw enough power due to the USB power limitations on the Wii.

Insten Dual USB 3.0 Type A to...

u/ducttapedude · 1 pointr/techsupport

If it's a portable HDD and it shuts down during heavy usage then it might be drawing too much power. You might try using one of those Y connectors:

Back in the day Macs were notorious for not supplying enough power for portable hard drives because of their stupid port layout (internal USB hubs and stuff). I'm not sure if that's the case still.

Anyway on to your questions:

  1. What do you mean by portable Windows 8 installation? You mean an ISO or an actual installed-to-a-USB-drive Windows 8 installation? There's Windows To Go but that's only for Enterprise versions.

  2. No idea.

  3. Something is wrong with the hardware configuration. I've had this happen when the SATA mode is not set to AHCI for example, or vice versa.
u/thepocketnerd · 1 pointr/WiiUHacks

Do you have it plugged into the USB ports in the back with the data plug in the bottom port? I've only ever used the Seagate model with all my consoles and they've always worked like a charm. This is the Y cable I have. (A Male to Micro B) Data Sync and Charging

u/BrewingHeavyWeather · 1 pointr/buildapc

While 500GB can be bought, only notebook drives still have platters that small. 12TB HDDs are on the way, and 500GB is what big PC makers get, to save $1 on a new PC. 1TB has been the mainstream small size for at least 3 years, now.

If you want bus-powered USB ones, WD and Toshiba tend to be good, IME.

You can buy a drive an enclosure, but a bus-powered USB 3.0 one will usually be more convenient (if it comes with a regular USB 3.0 micro cable, you can buy cables like this to get USB 2.0 compatibility).

If a notebook-sized enclosure, get one that takes bus power from USB. Full-sized enclosures almost all have their own power bricks, since USB power would be too expensive to implement.

u/Soulcloset · 1 pointr/WiiUHacks

When/if you do, keep in mind that the WiiU doesn't supply enough power from one USB port alone. You'll need a splitter cable for the HDD, something like this.

u/ewzzy · 1 pointr/WiiHacks

Well the biggest risk is that Wii might not be able to power the drive. A drive with a separate power plug is more likely to work. You can also use the a Y cable plugged into 2 USB slots.

u/BerserkOlaf · 1 pointr/wiiu

Yeah, specific format, you won't be able to use your HDD for anything else.

Also if your HDD has no external power supply (I don't think those still exist), you will probably need a Y cable (like this).

The problem is the Wii U USB ports don't have sufficient power for a typical HDD, so if you are using a standard cable you may encounter disc read errors, freezes and the like. The Y cable is using 2 ports to power the HDD instead of 1.

u/MacheteSanta · 1 pointr/empyriongame

Get a Y cable so the drive gets power from two USB ports

MicroUSB 3.0 Y cable or the older tech MiniUSB 2.0 Y cable

u/Genghis_Tron187 · 1 pointr/wiiu

I bought this exact drive and it seems to be working OK. I've had good luck with Toshiba drives (seems like others have different stories). You will need a Y cable though, if you only have 1 cable hooked up, it will click due to lack of power.

Here is the Y cable I bought:

Be warned that the Y cable is coming from China, so don't expect it soon. The cable quality actually seems decent though.

u/samvest · 1 pointr/wiiu

You don't need a self powered drive but you do need a y cable

u/RGV_RAGE · 1 pointr/wiiu

This is the one I have

Just make sure the connector matches whatever hdd you get.

Only problem I've had was system error when downloading 1GB+ files after June update. Fixed by switching to usb ports on front of Wii U. Heard it was more widespread than just my system, and was fixed in later update. No problems since then.

u/Tomugol · 1 pointr/WiiUHacks

Oh! You'll probably need one of these. I didn't know this and it led to 4 very frustrating and impatient days waiting for a package to arrive. You likely won't find these in stores.

u/brandonarnold · 1 pointr/Surface

This is easily reproduced, as I tried with 2 different 3TB My Passport Ultra hard drives and 2 different 512GB Microsoft Surface Book laptops.

It would seem the Surface Book outputs less than the 650 mA power requirements of the drive, over the USB 3.0 ports.

But I've had mixed results with this assumption. I got one full backup done by going through my Satechi 10 port USB 3.0 hub. I also bought this power booster cable as per strikr's comment above. Notice that it has a Y with 2 USB Type B connectors--you have to plug both into the computer because that's how it doubles the power.

The problem is, many times it still has the same behavior. This does not completely fix the problem.

u/Cyo_The_Vile · 1 pointr/Piracy

Yep. I just bought a 2TB an hour ago at Walmart and I can 100% confirm that the default cable WILL NOT WORK with the Wii U. Tried it and the Wii U won't recognize it.
I just bought this and should arrive in two days. This is the exact Y cable you need:

u/DeLuca2400 · 1 pointr/wiiu

You need a y cable to get enough power to the hard drive [Here's a good one] (

u/Kaderik · 1 pointr/techsupport

It actually doesn't fit. Here is a pick, the Toshiba USB cable is on the left: The black plastic "teeth" don't allow it to fit in any of the other USB ports.

A standard USB cord on the right for comparison.

I bought an Insten Dual USB 3.0 Type A to Micro-B USB cable (

The Toshiba external hard drive is getting power, but doesn't pop up as the list of devices to access on the computer.

Edit: The Insten cable doesn't have the black plastic "teeth."

u/CamoHiddenDJ · 1 pointr/oculus

> Amazon has this with a usb extension and the Rift S as items that are frequently bought together.

The displayport cable works,. the USB doesn't. (At least it doesn't on the Inateck Fresco Logic usb card recommended by oculus) You'll want this USB instead

u/Aspires2 · 1 pointr/Vive

I purchased this one which appears to be very similar but a different brand. It also has the option for optional power supply - but it was not needed and works fine without it.

u/ExTheSea · 1 pointr/oculus

I wouldn't recommend a usb hub. I did use a usb hub directly connected to my pc and then plugging the sensors in there. This sort of worked with occasional bad tracking but as soon as I introduced extension cables I ran into massive problems and basically couldn't connect to any sensors plugged into the hub.

I now use 5 meter usb extension cables directly plugged into my pc. I personally used ones from CSL (European Amazon) but this subreddit's wiki seem to recommend these
for US user. There is also an official oculus blog post that recommends some cables.

..and like arbetman said usb 2.0 is fine for sensors.

u/tmk0706 · 1 pointr/Vive

The AmazonBasics cable will definitely work, I'm currently using it with no issues. As for the USB, the ones you posted look good. I believe you need a 3.0 but have read that 2.0 can work.

I got this cable
and is working flawlessly(no extra power supply needed).

Not sure about the surge protector thing.

u/Jimmy_Two_Fingers · 1 pointr/Games

Ah, well it's USB. You can get an active extension cable like this for 2.0 and this for 3.0. An unboosted USB signal is only good for 5 meters tops, according to its spec.

u/clupean · 1 pointr/buildapc

Same here. I did 1,2,4,5 but not 3 because the video card doesn't really bother me when idle.
About step 5, I have now 4 hdds inside 4 silencer cases. When it was just one, it was ok. With 4 devices, it's noisy again and unfortunately I don't have the budget to switch completely to SSDs.
Now I'm thinking about moving the computer case to the next room using an hdmi/rj45 extender or just a long hdmi cable and an active usb 3.0 repeater cable along with a usb 3.0 hub. The total cost is under $50. Do you know a cheaper or more practical way to this?

u/cocorickoo · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

Yeah, this is the one you are talking about. It is not available on AmazonPrime so i'll be losing money if it is not compatible.

u/TechFiend101 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I would probably recommend using an active usb extension cable cable like this and a powered usb hub.

u/Antoniopapp · 1 pointr/oculus

Hey Knexfan0011, I read the amazon link for my Cablematters plug. I found this line " Optional AC Power (sold separately): Power Adapter with 5V/2A center positive 3.5 x 1.35mm barrel connector." Didn't you say that the plug was DC? Here is the amazon link. Does it matter if I buy a DC or AC plug? Thanks!

Edit: Will this work? Link

u/TrevEB · 1 pointr/oculus

The room is 11'x12'
No bed however there is a couch which takes up some valuable space.
I used wall bushings that I sawed partially in half with a dremel so that I could slip the cable into it without having to cut the USB head off. I also had to soak the bushing is boiling water to soften it up a bit for bending. It makes the hole in the ceiling very clean. The hole itself was drilled just wide enough to get the USB head through. I'll post some pics soon of the wires. :)
Here is a list of parts.
Ceiling Mounts
Wall Bushings
StarTech 4 port PCI Express
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 16 feet

u/directrl · 1 pointr/oculus

You can buy a 5m active extender for $15 on Amazon to get 8m with the cable and extender.

u/battlestartriton · 1 pointr/oculus

I have my rift extended by 25 feet with no issues. (Room scale) I have a ASUS 1080 close to your ASUS 1070.

You must have active cables. Regular HDMI cables are horrible at carrying a signal that requires a certain level of power through it.

Don't use a DVI to HDMI dongle. You need to give the rift a HDMI native port. Move your monitors around or buy DisplayPort to hdmi cables for your monitors if needed.

My connection is as followed:

Video card -> active hdmi cable -> hdmi booster -> rift (rift plugs into HDMI booster)

Active USB MUST be plugged into motherboard or pci card USB and NOT USB hubs. I've had nothing but issues with a few hubs.

Here's my setup


Cable Matters Active 4K HDMI Cable with RedMere Technology (ARC and Ethernet Support) - 25 Feet

I also use an HDMI repeater which helps boost the signal

J-Tech Digital HDMI 2.0 Repeater Coupler Extender Signal Booster Support 1080P, [email protected] HDCP EDID Bandwidth up to 18Gbps

Here's my USB cable

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet

Hope that helps! I have ZERO latency issues and no disconnection problems. I play a lot of echo arena.

u/RnRpax · 1 pointr/oculus

I hear you on the USB issues (worst aspect of the Rift from my experience). I had no luck with the recommended Inateck card with multiple drivers (default MS or official Inateck), disabling of power management, etc. As someone else has already stated try without the extensions if possible to see if you still have issues. If none, might be compatibility with those cables. I use 5m Cable Matters active usb 3.0 extensions along with the StarTech 4 port PCIe USB 3.0 card (4 dedicated channels). That card is on the pricey side but is ultimately what ended up working for me without issue (have hmd and 3 sensors on extensions plugged in (requires available PCIe x4 slot or higher). Hopefully you get this sorted but remembering the frustration I had with USB issues I can understand if you'd rather just be done with it.

u/Heaney555 · 1 pointr/oculus


The sensors need to be on a 5 metre extender each - specifically this one

u/gullzway · 1 pointr/oculus

I bought this one for $16,

It made a hugh difference on games like robo recall, and just today started Killing Floor.

u/0-cares-given · 1 pointr/oculus

Yea, that's what I figured. I know amazon sells one cheaper. I'll probably end up going with that.

u/Me-as-I · 1 pointr/oculus

At least with a power cord you can get a long one and tuck it in around the edge of the room or something. USB 3 cables aren't supposed to be longer than 3 meters. Beyond that you need an active cable. I have a feeling that could add lag. I'd like to see tests on that.

u/seattleliftbuddy · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I recently got my system up and running, and then proceeded to move. Several weeks later, I got my surround sound up and running and moved my equipment around.

Now I'm seated around 8' from the TV, and 10' from the PC. I am set on games that use controllers, but for mouse and keyboard games, I'm trying to figure out the best course of action.

My searching on this subreddit and online has indicated that around 10 feet is okay, and as long as I used powered USB, I should be fine.

So i'm trying to decide if I want to run two lengthy active USB cables:

Or run one USB 3.0 hub:

Any thoughts on what might be best?

u/XtraChase · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

This active USB extension might work.
Cable Matters Active USB Extension Cable Male to Female (USB 3.0 Extension Cable) for USB Device and Oculus Rift, HTC Vive, Playstation VR Headset and More - 5 Meters, 16.4 Feet

u/donannis · 1 pointr/oculus

Yes, I have them plugged into a usb hub and they work, both the headset and the sensor. lemme see if i can find the hub I ordered.. Here, this is the one I got and works with USB 3.0

I attached this cable to it to extend my rift sensor (camera)

I did exactly what you want to, I connected this box usb 3.0 hub under my desk, with a hdmi coupler i can plug the rift into, so all the connections for my headset are under my desk.

u/bifurk8 · 1 pointr/oculus

Yes, I was eventually able to get extensions working by using an HDMI repeater. Here's what I finally settled on that worked for me:

u/snowzach · 1 pointr/Vive

I have personally used this cable link with a 6 foot male/female plugged into that extension and a powered USB hub like this plugged into that. Gives you about 20 feet.

u/yellowspacealien · 1 pointr/oculus

Been playing with 2 sensor 360 tracking on the 2m x 1.5m and has been working good enough for me. Tracking is not perfect obviously as there is a "seam" that will cause a "shift" on the touch controller potentially due to what seems to be a software calibration type of issue. Not a game breaker for me as you just have to be aware of it and adjust accordingly so I am not in between it like when I play Arizona Sunshine and aiming the gun.

My setup uses the 2 support rods diagonally from each with the sensors attach to clamps and up about 6 feet high at about 45 degree angle downward linked to active USB3.0 extension cable. I think your mileage will vary how you setup but here's the list of the setup:

Also you should use Desk Scene to make sure the sensors truly cover your play space:

u/LaRock0wns · 1 pointr/oculus

What solved issues for me was moving the sensors to different USB ports. I have 1 plugged in to the front of the computer (uses internal cpu header). I have 1 plugged in to a USB 2 port, and the other 2 are plugged in to USB3 ports on different usb controllers on the motherboard.

Once I separated them all out, it completely changed things for the better. Before doing this, I could stand in one spot with the touch controllers out in front of me and not move at all, and the hands would judder and drift. With the change, I can play for a couple of hours with no issues (except in the far corners of the play space).

For those that are curious

This is the extension I'm using for the Rift -

These are the extension cables I'm using for 2 of the sensors plugged in to the USB3 ports -

For the USB2 sensor, I'm using the USB2 extension that came with the sensor

I'm on 980ti Asus Strix and a Gigabyte z170x gaming G1 motherboard. Not using any usb hubs or usb cards.

u/yomerb · 1 pointr/oculus

I have the following with my gtx 970


You obviously don't need those cables. The Hdmi extender works great even for a cable as long as mine. It should be no problem to get the extra 3ft you want. My setup is completely passive, even the USB cable is not using extra power as the Rift headset doesn't demand much.

u/BurningBagofShit · 1 pointr/ShieldAndroidTV

I've used some passive extenders that were 50/50. I then got these active extenders here:


I run a hub at the end of it without an issue.

u/dino325 · 1 pointr/oculus

Something like this? USB Extension