I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.

After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.

Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:

Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?

A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)

Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?

A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).

Q: How do you control the volume?

A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.

Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?

A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.

Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?

A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.

Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?

A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.

Q: Can you make phone calls with it?

A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.

Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?

A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.

Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?

A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.

Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?

A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..

Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?

A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!

I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.

Breakdown of Parts:

Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305

TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.

Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.

EDIT #1: Formatting.

EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.

Specs: Raspberry Pi Zero W running Raspbian. I have a generic case that I found at Microcenter that came with a heat sync. Samba is installed for windows file sharing. Pi VPN is also installed for access from anywhere. Two hard drive enclosures form amazon with a few hard drives I had lying around: 1TB (left) and a 320GB (right). The fan is an Arctic Breeze Mobile and I also have a USB to Ethernet adapter. Everything is connected to a 7 hub Anker powered USB hub. The fan is probably overkill but whatever, it looks cool.

​

Guides I followed to get it all up and running:

How To Geek: How to Turn a Raspberry Pi into a Low-Power Network Storage Device

Combining the two different hard drives to appear as one

Setting up OpenVPN with PiVPN

​

Edit: Added Amazon links - I didn't buy everything from amazon but this is easiest. Some things aren't the exact ones shown but close enough.

​

Edit Edit: Added links to the guides I followed

​

Edit\^3: Thank you all for the support and my first Gold! I didn't think this would get as much support as it has gotten! :)

​

Last Edit hopefully: I apologize I called it a "Cloud" Server. It has stirred up some debate on whether or not it is. I called it a "cloud" server because I can access it from anywhere.

Youre too used to paying for cheap chinese crap.

Any decent brand of USB-C hub with hdmi out and power delivery is going to cost $40 to $100.

This was discussed to death when the prices were announced.

1. DVI is almost 20 years old. Modern monitors use DisplayPort, which you can drive directly from USB-C ports.
   
   
2. If you're at a desk with Eathernet, why not just use a docking station like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GSMZ7G Then you only have to plug in power and docking station.

I am honestly struggling with the abundance of mechanical keyboard suggestions. I don’t use one, and very few people at my workplace use one. I will say that unless there’s some significant ergonomic benefit that I’m missing, the “pro” of having a keyboard that feels great comes at the heavy expense of potentially annoying the hell out of your colleagues with the noise. It depends if your friend works remotely or in an office, but I can say that in an office environment a mechanical keyboard seems like a disrespectful move in my personal and professional opinion.

Three things I can suggest that are each universally useful and cheap are a cable keeper, a USB hub, and this specific stress ball. I love this stress ball because it has such an awesome squishy texture to it. Unfortunately you don’t get to pick the color (not the slightest idea why) but most people end up getting a black one, myself included.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ Nice buttons

Parts List

Old telephone ringer box

RaspberryPi

Nixie tube vfdclock from ebay
or from these guys

Powered USB hub

Amazon USB speakers

PIR sensor (to turn on nixie tubes at night)

IR receiver/sender

GPIO buttons (they are pretty cheap, next time I'd use these. Thanks /u/John_Barlycorn for the link/idea!

old sony ps2 remote - I chose this remote because they are cheap, built solid and are in brand new shape (no one used them as a remote) and have easy LIRC support

USB mic


Edit:
forgot the pics!

Edit2: Linked everything

That cable doesn't provide power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K7C53K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495632080&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+c+hdmi+hub+charging&dpPl=1&dpID=411ncpQH%2BFL&ref=plSrch

This $60 splitter hub is more equivalent device. Note that it doesn't get power from a separate source, but instead right from the laptop that is sending/receiving signal.

While the dock may be a bit overpriced. It comes with an extra official power supply and the new dock. More importantly, Nintendo gives you one of these when you buy a Switch.

If anyone has questions about the install shoot me a message and I'll gladly help!
Here's a short video http://youtu.be/ccwPxygGydE

Parts List

Double Din Bezel- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSVAEVE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Car Charger - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RBSXJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB OTG- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB70PXA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Hub- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Wire- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7GUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Right Angle Stereo Jack- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SFSIXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bluetooth ODB Reader- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U1MOM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diagram

http://i.imgur.com/LAqK0Ti.jpg

Ditch those two Apple dongles that are often faulty and buy one of these:

Anker USB C Hub, 7-in-1 USB C... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMLTCPL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Adds an extra usb C port just for charging.

Everything out there is a rip off. It is stupidly easy to DIY something that performs just as good for half the price. And DIY has the added benefit of flexible modularity.

For example that Anker panel is $140 for 15 watts. That is insane! Full sized solar panels are under $1 per watt and you should never pay more than $2 per watt for small panels.

Shop around for a cheap normal solar panel. Since this is apartment based you can save money and go for the bulkier panels. For example here is a 50 watt panel for $70. It measures about 2' on a side and weighs 9 pounds. Just small enough that if you need to bail by car you can bring it with you.

Next you need a DC-DC regulator. These take many forms and determine how flexible your system will be. The simplest option is to get a 5V regulator which will be able to provide juice for all of your USB based items. There are fancier regulators with voltage and current adjustment but it sounds like these aren't for you.

Then get a high powered USB hub or maybe 2. That hub can only do 20 watts max. The panel and regulator I linked can do 50W. This gives you headroom on overcast days but it is also a waste on bright sunny days.

> but I'm not sure how I'd use something like that to charge batteries such as 18650's or AA's as those chargers don't have USB connections

Those chargers do have USB if you buy the right chargers. For example the Lii-500 does NiMH and li-ion all from micro-usb.

Another option is to get a 12V regulator and also connect that to the panel. There are a lot of chargers that run from 12V DC.

edit: I forgot about the connectors! These are good for low-power DIY.

Failed Fakespot the the company has a shit rating as well.

$10 is also pretty standard for a 3/4 port hub(example) on sale.

A few days ago I posted about running Borderlands 3 on my iMac (2017 5k 27” iMac with a 4.2 i7, 32GB DDR4 and a Radeon Pro 580 8GB), because I was amped it became available. When I started playing, I had to throttle the settings to the absolute lowest to make it smooth. I wanted to know, leveraging an eGPU, how I could get my iMac peforming better for gaming.

Most replies I received were people being assholes. Throwing in their “desktop gaming and iMacs don’t go together”. I get it, unfortunately I use it for work and wanted to get back into desktop gaming with what I had.

Luckily someone stepped up and guided me in the right direction. I jumped on Amazon, bought the Razor Core X and the Radeon RX 5700 XT and everything arrived today. Outside of the thunderbolt 3 cable being incredibly short, I’m proud to say I’m officially running Borderlands 3 at high settings with a smooth 30-35 FPS even in fast-paced action scenes.

He doesn’t want to be mentioned, but thank you for he guidance. To anyone else, I don’t know much about hardware/computers, but this setup cost me roughly $800. Worth it for a game? It’s not. But hopefully we get more gaming support moving forward.

Edit: Here are the links to the items on Amazon.

Card: PowerColor Red Devil Radeon RX 5700 XT 8GB GDDR6 Graphics Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WP6TYQ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BQOZDbS2B0NJG

Razor Core X: Razer Core X Aluminum External GPU Enclosure (eGPU): Compatible w/Windows & Mac Thunderbolt 3 Laptops - NVIDIA/AMD PCIe Support - 650W PSU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQG2K5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rROZDbVKA0NST

Edit 2: Here’s the keyword/mouse switch I use.

A couple people have asked me how I only have one keyboard and mouse setup for 2 iMacs. I prefer wired connections, because I’ve found the Bluetooth keyboard to lose sync at the most inopportune times. So I bought this switch and wired the button under my desk so I can just quick-click it right in front of me to swap between iMacs and it remains hidden. It has roughly a 1-2 second delay as soon as you click it until the mouse and keyboard become usable on the opposite iMac.

IOGEAR 2 Computer 4-Port USB 2.0 Peripheral Sharing Switch, GUS402 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LXOZDbN4YRSX9

I got mine at the last price drop of $820 and filled out my library nicely last month between the Steam and Oculus sales. I'm more than satisfied with it now but here are my recommendations:

• Buy it from Oculus to save taxes.
  
• Install Oculus Tray Tool and add Steam VR to the Oculus Home Library so you can move between the two easily with the headset on.
  
• Get the 3rd sensor for roomscale, it makes playing games more enjoyable when you can lose yourself a bit and not concentrate on staying faced the right way. Also opens up compatibility for a lot of Steam VR games not on Oculus Home.
  
• I often see usb pci-e cards recommended but this usb hub worked for me without any hiccups.
  
• I'd also recommend browsing the Prime Day sales for hdmi and usb extension cables for the headset. I got 10ft cables for $10 each and that feels just right for me, I couldn't go any shorter. Having the PC up on the table with the cord running down really eats up distance fast.

That's an Anker one, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Charging-Adapter-Included-VL812-B2/dp/B014ZQ07NE/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=anker+usb+hub&qid=1564002520&s=gateway&sr=8-5

But I'd probably get this one instead, that one there gets annoyed when there's too many devices plugged in and stops outputting power properly: https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-Macbook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=anker+usb+hub&qid=1564002520&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Wouldn't this be better for 10 cents more?

Anker [Upgraded Version] 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub, Ultra-Slim Data Hub with 2 ft Extended Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ivZvDbQGWE7YA

Hey. Your idea will work, and the model will suffice, although I would recommend you tune it slightly. Let me go down a quick list:

1. Don't sweat the circuitry aspect of it. Take this -- https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Charging-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B019R9ILTG -- and snip the cabling and then solder in extensions for all of the wires. This'll probably need a fine touch, but the good news is you can hide the ugly and loose wiring on the underside or hollow interior of the of the stand. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a USB-C hub adapter that has a 3.5mm jack, but granted, I didn't look too hard.
   
   
2. Sliding the Macbook to dock it into the USB-C head will be a bit finicky, especially if the vertical clearance is fixed. Give it some flex or otherwise put it on a sliding track, maybe, but I'd gun for the former myself.
   
   
3. If you're going through all this trouble, may as well make the inclination of the stand adjustable. A V-hinge with collapsible height adjusters on the interior of the V and a track with grooves at regular intervals to set the adjusters in for a discrete quantity of inclination angles wouldn't be too tough.
   
   
4. Looks pointy and sharp! Make it less pointy and sharp.

A good powered USB hub

my pc is down and away from my desk and it was a pain to plug in flash drives and hard drives and whatever else i needed, i got one of these, a usb3 extension cable, and some Velcro strips, made a huge difference

1. Your TV needs to support HDMI CEC, most newer TVs do.
   
   
2. get a powered USB hub
   
   
3. Never used it, but I think it is bluetooth based so is somewhat distance sensitive?
   
   
4. it all depends what you have subscriptions too. Content cost money so free channels tend to be much worse than amazon/hulu/netflix etc.
   
   

You should be able to use your controller. The gamecube adapter only needs 2 USB slots max, and the switch has 3.

I you're worried about it, get a small USB hub to bring to tourneys in case the setups have no spare ports open.

Have you tried one of these? Super portable and works well. Only $10 on Amazon, too.


Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tETlzbHY7C93R

Ok, Everyone. I am going to try answer all of your questions at once.

> Can you make me one? I'll pay you!

No, Sorry. I am unable to make these for you, I just don't have the time.

> What software did you use?

I used RetroPie and Emulation Station found in one package found here. It was super easy, going in I had no idea what I was doing. Google and Youtube are your friends. Also /u/kristopher_m7 helped me figure some of it out.

> How much did it cost?

About 80$ plus the broken NES

> What hardware did you use?

Shutdown Circuit
USB Hub
Controllers I used 2

> Where did you get the ROMs?

CoolROM

> Was it hard?

No, not at all. It was frustrating at times, but fun and educational. But seriously, Google is your friend. I would recommend it to anyone that has some computer experience.

I guess Imgur isn't so friendly on links so I'll put them here as well:

1. GoRuck Echo, Black :: http://www.goruck.com/echo-black-rucksack/p/GEAR-000064
   
2. Morale Patch, "Regular Guy" :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014N0NK7M
   
3. MOLLE Grimloc caribiner, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LEEAMXA
   
4. Jogalite Reflective Band, White :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KGATL4
   
   ***
   
   
5. Batman button :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00273934C22
   
6. GoRuck Sternum Strap, Black :: http://www.goruck.com/molle-sternum-strap-black-/p/GEAR-0001023
   
7. Sharpie, Fine, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFHD/
   
8. MOLLE Web Dominator, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LEEAMXA
   
   ***
   
   
9. Dell Inspiron 13" 7000 :: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/inspiron-13-7378-2-in-1-laptop/dncwsab5104h2
   
   ***
   
   
10. GoRuck Padded Field Pocket, Echo, Black :: http://www.goruck.com/padded-field-pocket-echo-black-/p/GEAR-000368
    
11. SanDisk Ultra Fit 3.0 flashdrive, 32G (x2) :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLER2CS
    
12. Sea to Summit Dry Sack, Small (4L), Green :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q3KKCS
    
13. Rowkin Bit wireless earbuds, Space Gray :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBQ6GQ4
    
14. Kindle Paperwhite, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OQVZDJM6. MOLLE Grimloc caribiner, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LEEAMXA
    
15. Dell AC Adapter, 45W, 19.5V (came with laptop) :: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/inspiron-13-7378-2-in-1-laptop/dncwsab5104h2
    
16. Building/server card keys, varied
    
17. Building/server room keys, varied
    
18. REV battery, 4,000mAh :: who knows
    
19. Anker PowerCore battery, 10,000mAh :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194WDVHI
    
20. Tzumi PocketJuice Endurace battery, 6,000mAh :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TXBHT7Y
    
21. USB to Lightning cable, 4" :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B010U3XJNG
    
22. USB to Micro-B cable, 4" :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YKX6WM
    
23. StarTech USB Ethernet adapter :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095EFXMC
    
24. VanQuest FATPACK Gen2, 4x6, Black :: http://shop.skinnymedic.com/FATPack-4x6-Black-Gen-2-Bag-Only-fatpacksmallblk.htm
    
    ***
    
    
25. Uni-Ball Signo 207, Fine, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HNZ5SW/
    
26. BIC Roundstic, Medium, Blue :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010DS4DK6
    
27. Sharpie, Fine, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFHD
    
28. Toothpaste, travel :: Grocery stores
    
29. Toothbrush, travel :: Grocery stores
    
30. Contact lense case :: Grocery stores
    
31. SKYN condom, Original :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TTXA7I
    
32. Renu soft lense solution :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016IZ4BO69
    
33. Planters NUTrition, Wholesome Mix :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C37SX70
    
34. Nail clippers, large :: Grocery stores
    
35. LARABAR, Cashew Cookie :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NMDY38
    
36. Visine for contacts :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00099E9D6
    
37. Advil, 200mg :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZCT1M2
    
    ***
    
    
38. North American Rescue Compressed Gauze, 4.5" x 4.1 yard :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ED3H778
    
39. North American Rescue Pressure Bandage, 6" :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7OCCNC
    
40. North American Rescue Bear Claw gloves, Nitrile, Large :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9W7T1A
    
41. Nasopharyngeal Airway (NPA) Tube, 28Fr :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003950R2E
    
42. Sharpie, Fine, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFHD
    
43. Benchmade 7 :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013QVC1Q
    
44. Mylar blanket :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IYIYFE/
    
45. North American Rescue Compact HyFin Vent (x2) :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K533FB2
    
46. Alcohol prep pad :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEE2MHK
    
47. North American Rescue CAT (tourniquet), 7th Generation :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LCJCBTA
    
    ***
    
    
48. Stealth Gear USA Ventcore, Appendix :: http://stealthgearusa.com/holsters.html
    
49. Kershaw Shuffle II :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TAD2P8S
    
50. Cardstack Slim Wallet :: https://www.etsy.com/listing/247503194
    
51. LAMY Al-Star, Graphite, Fine, Blue :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R309UQ
    
52. Field Notes, Graph :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CQT2KU
    
53. Timex Weekender, original Blue/Gray stripe replaced with standard 20mm leather NATO strap :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VR9HP2, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012UTRAFG
    
54. Springfield Armory XD Mod.2 Sub-Compact, 3", 9mm, FDE :: http://www.springfield-armory.com/products/xd-mod-2-3-sub-compact-9mm/
    
55. Verizon iPhone 7 Plus, 128G, Black :: https://www.verizonwireless.com/smartphones/apple-iphone-7-plus
    8+. Otterbox SYMMETRY, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K6PBSK4
    
56. Xikar Allume Single, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK11W2
    
57. Lightning to 3.5mm adapter :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXJFMGF
    
58. Chapstick Classic, Medicated :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AIECQG
    
59. Transcend JetFlash, 128G :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKATVM4
    
60. Car, House keys
    
61. SanDisk Cruzer, 32G :: Who knows

Yes, the host is using the iGPU. The Windows VM is using my Nvidia GTX 970. Then I use a program called Looking Glass to display the VM's output on the desktop.

It works by creating a buffer in RAM. The framebuffer output of the dGPU is moved to the RAM buffer by the Looking Glass host program running in the Windows VM. Then the Looking Glass client running on the Linux host displays the framebuffer data out of that RAM buffer on the iGPU.

Mouse and keyboard input is handled by evdev drivers so that I can just hit both CTRL keys to switch from host to VM. They're also very low latency. Evdev + Looking Glass has noticeable latency, but it's not that bad. If playing on a monitor with low input lag is the baseline and playing on a TV with bad input lag is the worst case scenario I'd say it's somewhere in the middle. After a few minutes you get used to it. I wouldn't play a competitive FPS like CS:GO through it, but it's fine for everything else.

If you're into competitive games where that latency would be an issue, you can always just pass through a USB controller, use a KVM switch and use the secondary input of your monitor to have close to bare metal performance with no overhead.

I would prefer those dongles not attached directly to the case of the MacBook Pro. More or less regarding Jarcrjames said in a message about how easy it might be to bend and damage the computer in a bad situation.

Anker has several models. Anker USB-C Hub.

I'm slightly older if that really matters. Here's my advice.

One thing you can do right now without buying anything is to remove the stickers off of your laptop. Seriously, it makes a difference.

For all my recommendations I'm going to list price first as I imagine budget being a concern.

$5 - Do you only use the external drive when at your desk? If so, mounting it to the corner of the desk, the wall, (or if you ever pick up an external monitor, the back of that) might look cleaner.
I use this stuff to stick things - https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-051141397252-Extremely-Mounting-414P-ST/dp/B018GKCI82/ You can find it at stores like Target.

With all the cables coming out of your laptop, I think a USB hub would really help your setup as all of the cables would go directly into one place. If your laptop has a USB-C port and supports charging over it, you can get a USB-C hub so you can connect peripherals and charging over one cable.

$15 - If you don't have USB-C, something like this looks good - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/

It has four USB 3.0 ports and is very clean and small. However, the cable is a bit short.

Around $79 - If you do have USB-C, I have this hub and it's pretty good, however the cable is short and can feel a bit loose at times.

$25 - A basic colored mousepad might look cleaner if you want to go for that look. I have this mousepad and recommend it, but it's all personal preference.

$35 - I think you should pick up a headphone stand so the grease and oils don't get on your laptop screen, I recommend this one - https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Headphone-Stand-Holder/dp/B019PI9QFC/

It gives you three extra USB 3.0 ports, a headphone jack and comes in four different colors, and has a solid aluminum build. If you don't need those extras, this stand is still aluminum and comes in at $12 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZFX6ND/

Probably around $100-$150 - The biggest upgrade you can make here I think is an external monitor and keyboard. It would improve your setup's ergonomics significantly. This desk looks pretty small, so I would recommend something no bigger than 24 inches in screen size. The resolution of the screen and such would depend on what you want and your laptop's power. However, I highly recommend at least 1920x1080 resolution.

$25 - If you ever do decide to upgrade to an external monitor, you probably wouldn't be able to use two screens on your desk, and the closed laptop would take up way too much space. I would recommend this laptop stand - https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Adjustable-OMOTON-Aluminum-Chromebook/dp/B0769G51R7/

I have it myself and it's very well built, adjustable, and makes things a lot cleaner if you use an external monitor. It has branding on one side but if you flip it you can just use the side with no branding so it looks super clean. You can make it very stable on the desk with some simple double-sided tape.

That's all I have for now. Enjoy your setup!

I recommend the drive with a y-cable. That way the hard drive powers up and down with the console. With an externally powered drive, you have to either leave it on all the time (will lead to early hard drive failure) or you have to plug it in every time you use your Wii U (which is a major pain).

Just get a cheap usb hub to plug into one of the front USB ports so you can still plug in all your accessories. Here's an Amazon Basics one for $7 that turns one port into 4 so you have 5 in the front:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536252759&sr=1-7&keywords=usb+hub

Also, if you happen to have an old laptop that is dead or not used anymore, you can remove the hard drive from it and put it in a <$10 external enclosure and use it like a portable hard drive. I did this and it's been going strong for almost 4 years. Here's the external enclosure I used (includes a y cable):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E362W9O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

• 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  
• Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  
• Typical Apps...
  
  
• Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  
• Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  
• USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  
• 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  
• FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  
• Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  
• Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  
• SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  
• Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  
• USB Y-Power adapter
  
• JDM 2-tone AV panel
  
• 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  
• Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..
  
  I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
  
  
• [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  
• [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  
• [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  
• [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"
  
  Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

Well in the case of a Keyboard it will need power so unless this wireless adapter has a battery it will not work. I'll give it some google fu but I do not think what you want exists.

This might not be exactly what you want but it should give you something to think about:

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Sharing-Station-GUWIP204/dp/B0058DN1Q4

> During software setup of new sensors, you are asked to go to the center of the room, lift the touch to your eye level, and click the trigger to let Oculus know where the center should be. With a three-sensor setup, you must orient yourself in one very specific way – face one sensor, and keep the rest two at your 3 o’clock and 9’oclock, respectively.

As far as I know, the only important thing here is that your Touch's LEDs must be clearly visible to all of your sensors. This is because this step is used to calibrate the relative position of the sensors. If you have four sensors, this gets trickier - you would probably want to kneel and hold the Touch upside-down over your head (so that all sensors can see the plastic ring with the LEDs clearly). In my case, it would not let me progress past this step at all when the third sensor could not see my Touch, but it is possible to get in the bad scenario where the third sensors sees the Touch but does not see enough LEDs to get a good fix on its position, so you end up with a wrong calibration.

> I didn’t realize that the sensor I put behind me must sit in a corner, not in the middle of the wall. All three sensors should be located at corners.

This is not strictly necessary, as long as all three sensors can see the Touch clearly during setup. You can try the "kneel and hold Touch upside down over your head" approach I described above. However, a sensor in the middle of your back wall will tend to lead to poor tracking in both the back corners due to limited sensor FOV, so they should be excluded from your play space. The Oculus diagram will show you the sensor FOV so you can see if you properly removed the area outside it.

> The right Touch controller sometimes gets into a mode where your virtual hand slowly drifts away from you, all by itself. When it gets far enough, the system snaps it back to you. Then it drifts away again, and the cycle repeats. If you remove the battery from the Touch, then put it back, the problem is often fixed.

I encountered this bug a couple times and needed to power cycle my Touch even though I did the other setup steps correctly. I think it happens when the Touch is poorly tracked for a while due to intermittent occlusion and it puts the software filter into a bad state. Sometimes I manage to correct it by just waving the Touch around over my head, but I hope Oculus can fix it properly.

> Inadequate USB bus power [...] I bought instead an USB hub with power adapter

Yep. I bought the Anker USB 3.0 SuperSpeed 10-Port Hub with 60W Power Adapter. It's cheap, gives plenty of power, frees up my USB ports, and avoids taking up a PCI slot.

I would suggest the H-model (NUC6I5SYH) rather than the K-model. The H accommodates a 2.5in SATA drive (SSD or HDD) in addition to an m.2 SSD, whereas the K only has the m.2 slot.

There are many, many reviews of the 6th gen NUC as an ESXi host (just search for "nuc6i5syh esxi"), but these are from the more well-known, virtualisation-centric blogs:

• Virten.net - VMware Homeserver – ESXi on 6th Gen Intel NUC
  
  
• virtuallyGhetto - VSAN 6.2 (vSphere 6.0 Update 2) homelab on 6th Gen Intel NUC
  
  
• From this very subreddit, /u/exnihilo415 installed ESXi on a NUC6I5SYH and shared his thoughts about it.
  
  The 6th gen i5 will be more than sufficient to run a few Win64 and Linux VMs. I have several of the 5th gen i7 NUC (NUC5I7RYH) in a VSAN cluster, and they are great, capable ESXi platforms.
  
  My only complaints about the NUC are:
  
  
• Single NIC, which can be remedied by buying the appropriate USB NIC and installing the relevant VIB. Installation instructions here. Each of my NUCs have a StarTech USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet NIC (USB31000S) for vMotion traffic; you may want one for pfSense. (Works best with a managed switch that supports VLANs)
  
  
• If the fan has to ramp up, it gets very noisy. The i7s are prone to running a little hot, so I hear the fans more than an i5 owner would. For the workload you described, the Plex Media Server might be a concern. If you have huge media files (20-30GB) or do a lot of transcoding, there is the possibility that the server workload will cause the fan to rev up, and the net effect will be like watching a film in the same room as someone blow-drying their hair. I run my Plex server on the NAS to avoid this possibility.
  
  

Here’s the same thing on Amazon for $9: Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O

Hey! Just buy a USB hub; it takes up one USB slot and provides usually 4. I added one that you could get.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488202590&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hub

I have mine attached to this

Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Macbook, Mac Pro/mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, Notebook PC, USB Flash Drives, Mobile HDD, and More

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU

If all you need is extra usb ports then just get a usb hub
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511929825&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=usb+hub&psc=1

Yeah. I bought this Anker USB 3 hub 7 ports with power adapter. I edited the summary to add that link.

You are right. It's something like this.

Ok so this is the amazon hub I have

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407942392&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basic+usb+hub

Apple decided to put a software power limit to the USB CCK (Camera Connection Kit) a few years ago. The hardware is capable of outputting 100ma, but Apple limited it to 20ma. The trick works by making it think that there are 4 ports instead of one, meaning the iPad gives the hub 80ma, and then the hub can give 80ma to the usb stick. I believe that is how it works anyway.

Might I ask where you will be getting the usb sticks from? Will they be given to you (in lectures or from friends etc), or is it so you can plug in a usb stick back and forth from a computer? The reason I ask, is if it is for your use, I have found that the SD card CCK is much better for this. The SD card reader has no power limit, so no hub is required and it works for any card (formatted in FAT32/HFS+) - so 128gb cards work, and most likely 256gb cards when they become reasonably priced :P. Its a lot less messy (only one cable sticking out), and for the times when I want to plug it into a computer with no SD card slot, I can use a USB 3 to SD card reader;

Something like this (I'm in the UK so not sure of the best US equivalents)
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407942666&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+3+sd+card+reader

In terms of speed its the same as USB 2, and when it comes to mounting them in iFile its exactly the same as USB CCK. And I think the same price for the SD kit over USB and SD card prices are the same as USB sticks too.

Let me know whether that sounds better or if you still require USB. It really just depends on how often you are going to be doing it, I certainly wouldn't want to take out the hub in the middle of lecture or something - would kind of defeat the purpose of the mini :P.

Why have a dedicated, single-purpose connector type (PS/2) when you can have a Universal connector type (USB)? More general is more better and Universal is the pinnacle of generality.

Furthermore USB is externally expandable (example) if that's what you want/need.

You can use wired internet if you use an Ethernet-to-USB adapter, like this one. :-)

Don't overthink this. A KVM-like switch will be the best bet. If both your computers take a USB mouse and/or keyboard, this will probably work:

IOGEAR 2 x 4 USB 2.0 Peripheral Sharing Switch (GUS402) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Njl-wbTTZ5ED0

I would definitely avoid that hub. With 7 external ports the internal design will be two USB host controllers daisy chained together so 4 of those ports will at a minimum have to go through 3 host controllers to send data back to the PC. Very risky and prone to issues which will be explained below.

Apologies for the wall of text but it is all quite important to explain why USB hubs are not the best idea for a number of reasons. Only go the hub route if you have no other choice like you have a laptop and a PCI card if not an option. If you have a desktop and free PCI slots then grab one of the PCI cards listed at the end of this post.

USB 3.0 Hubs

The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.

So you have something like this using a hub.

PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.

I put together this image on the weekend to explain it to someone else - https://imgur.com/jI6Istl

If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.

It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.

Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift. The 7 port one will have daisy chained USB controllers internally but people have recommended it so they must be good quality.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM


PCI Cards

Here are the cards that Oculus have recommended (I have personally tested the top two cards) .The blog posts at the end of this post might clear up why hubs are hit and miss for some people due to data/latency bottlenecks that might occur.

StarTek 2 port card (1 ASMedia controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q

Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK

Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Both 4 port StarTek cards are pricey and a bit more than is actually required. You could achieve the same thing with 2x four port Inatek cards.

More reading for why USB controllers are important and how you should connect sensors

Oculus put together some blog posts last year explaining best practices. Parts 2 and 3 of Oculus tracking posts explain the USB subsystems and how to get the best config.

• Part 1: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-tips-for-setting-up-a-killer-vr-room/
  
• Part 2: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
  
• Part 3: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/
  
• Part 4: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-extra-equipment/
  
  Finally here is my setup and the placement of USB devices amongst all the USB controllers. https://imgur.com/a/fqgRP5p

https://www.pine64.org/?product=rock64-media-board-computer

https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-External-Enclosure-Supported-Silver/dp/B019HXSQ6K?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Adjustable-Stabilizer-Protective/dp/B01FQH4M82/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

What kid of power supply do you have? I wouldn't try to overclock the Pi with less than a solid 2.1 amp supply, and I do mean solid. Many people have found that some of the cheap 2 amp supplies don't really give 2 amps. This is also going to make the Pi more stable when overclocking. Google it if you want specifics.

Rather than buy a different WiFi dongle which may or may not work with your Pi, buy a powered USB hub.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10307&cs_id=1030702&p_id=5328&seq=1&format=2

You probably want a powered USB-A hub. This will allow you to plug everything, but also charge any devices that are plugged in. Does your hard drive have external power, or does it rely on the USB for power?

Something like this.

I gotchu fam: https://www.amazon.ca/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O

I really really really want a USB-C hub that just has 5 USB C inputs and 1 USB C output. Like this but USB C. I can't find anything because everything is just a dock for a macbook :/

I run the Define S which has no drive bay, my cable for the external CD drive was too short so i purchased this hub and am ashamed of how long it took me to figure out the connection.

USB Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Drive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OVX3H52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/

This one has worked great for me. I've got two external HDDs connected (one USB powered and one dedicated power), my headset (3rd gen Astro A50, USB powered), and sometimes plug a flash drive in to upload photos for backgrounds.... Good speeds since it's USB3.0... I like that it's hot swappable too, because I can disconnect/reconnect my headphones anytime they have an issue by pressing the button rather than pulling the cable.

This is the solution: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TPMEOYM?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

It has a little button that toggles the power on and off and also fixed an issue I had with audio cutting out and becoming static noise. It really does feel like you have a bit more control over the headset with this usb device.

I have the Odyssey plus and had this issue. This fixed it:

Hub for power: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and

Data repeater (active cable): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active c goes to computer USB port; then use the hub; connect your headset to a hub port

Yep, do your research.

I did, and ended up with this one which hasn't been any kind of slouch for my usage.

I go this usb hub and no longer worry about ports as I have 2 charging cables, an external hdd, astro mix amp and some other random cables. Given it was $20 awhile back but they often go on sale for very cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I-WQybS98G36K

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I bought this hub recently and it works great. I think this is one of the higher end ones but it was one of the amazon deals of the day a few weeks ago so I grabbed it for like 75% off.

You can do this for Sentry if you don't mind some tinkering: https://github.com/marcone/teslausb/

​

I started using TeslaFi two days after I got my car, I wish I'd done that from the beginning. If you want to try it a referral code can double your trial period (to a month from two weeks, I believe).

​

This USB hub works great for all the stuff I have plugged in: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/

The USB device limit is much higher than 16. It's usually 127 on most computers.

Have you tried using a powered USB hub? Too many passive hubs can cause their own issues.

Plug this hub directly into the motherboard. Not a front panel USB port or into another hub:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZQ07NE/

I, and multiple other people, have found great success using wall powered USB hubs. Zero problems with USB power or bandwith post using one of these.

If you don't mind hooking up two cables then yeah, just get a mini-displayport to dvi adapter and a usb 3.0 hub(get a powered one) and you're good to go. Probably about 40 bucks altogether on amazon.

a displayport adapter

usb hub

Edit : Why would someone even downvote this? da fuq

I know it’s nothing special, but this is my macsetup! I work primarily on video editing projects, some Photoshopping, with some Wordpress website building sprinkled in there. But this setup is used mostly for generic browsing, YouTube/Netflix, and Plex server hosting.


So this is my setup that I’ve built over the course of 4 years.

• Monitor - ASUS Designo MX279H 27”
  
• Wallpapers - Reddit user u/aenami
  
• Computer - Apple 13” Retina MacBook Pro (Late 2013), 4GB RAM, 128 GB SSD
  
• Computer Stand - twelvesouth HiRise for MacBook
  
• Desk mat - PRÖJS from IKEA
  
• Keyboard - Apple Magic Keyboard (AA battery version)
  
• Mouse - Logitech MX Master Wireless Mouse
  
• Tablet - Apple iPad Air 2, 64 GB, Gold
  
• Tablet Stand - Griffin A-Frame
  
• Phone - Apple iPhone 6, 64 GB, Space Grey
  
• Phone Stand - Twelve South HiRise for iPhone/iPad
  
• Speakers - M-Audio AV32
  
• Headphones - Audio-Technica ATH-M50x
  
• USB Power Hub - Not sure exactly what brand it is, but it’s similar to this one.
  
• USB Data Hub - Anker USB 3.0 7-Port Hub
  
• WD easystore 8TB (Not pictured)
  
• 2x - Western Digital 4TB My Book
  
• 2x - Western Digital 2TB My Passport
  Hard Drive Toaster - StarTech.com HDD Docking Station
  
• UPS - APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS (Not pictured)
  
  
  Little sumo man was a gift from a friend. Custom R2-series astromech droid was purchased a trip to Disney Paris. And I name my external hard drives after characters in movies and TV shows that I enjoy.
  
  
  Let me know if you have any questions!

As far as trust-able names go, I find the pickings are fairly slim. You wind up paying a premium for it.

Anker, my preferred, has one without an SD slot at $60.

Aukey has one without the SD slot. $40.

Aukey has another, but it's missing the HDMI port. $17.

Lenovo's has all the bells/whistles, but comes to $58.

You have ask yourself if you're willing to drop that much on a trustworthy name, or if ones like this from Mokin are worth the $30 risk.

FWIW, I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G83L1J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works great on my iPad Pro and Macbook Pro. Provides HDMI, Ethernet and 3xUSB ports. Also matches my space grey coloring on both. Only $36 with coupon and Anker makes (IMHO) good quality stuff.

I will preface that no electronics are BIFL. If you had bought a USB hub 10 years ago it would have been USB 2.0 max, maybe even 1.0. So even if it still works it'd be slow and maybe incompatible.

Anker is a good brand without breaking the bank. I have some of their cables and portable batteries. Staying within that budget you could get a couple more ports.

You also may want to look at "port replicators" which are a bit more expensive but offers more kinds of ports at once.

Sounds like you're looking for a USB hub.

Wether the one you need would be externally powered or BUS powered depends on how much power the devices you are using require.

Something simple like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_L8zWub07C837M
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_L8zWub07C837M

Powered hubs are a must if your old hub wasn't powered with the x52 that was probably a reason why it disconnected. Personaly I use This Hub It is usb 3.0 but i put my phone Track IR Warthog Stick and throttle and a bluetooth adaptor all on it with no issues.

Literally any hub that follows the USB3 spec should work. Try to get one that's powered (comes with a power brick you plug in) and isn't the cheapest thing you can find. This one works fine.

I seriously doubt that there's enough power for two USB drives. But you'll be able to make everything work with a powered USB hub.

-edit-
That link is for a 2.5A powered hub. If you've got older (or more power hungry) drives, you may want to get one with more power.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9996LA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works great! Only thing I wish it has was a backlight. You can use the media buttons and touchpad. Just familiarize yourself with the keyboard controls. Very long lasting rechargeable battery. Works out of the box.

Edit - It also works fine with Ouya apps when you need to type text. Pick up one of these USB hubs if you don't have one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the worst case I can image here would be a short circuit, causing the power brick of your Arduino to overheat. When experimenting, it would be a good idea to get a power strip with a circuit breaker, and keep the Arduino power supply on a surface that can't catch fire. also, make sure to be careful about plugging it into your computer's USB port. I've already learned that lesson the hard way. I would suggest getting something like these, for safety.

http://amzn.com/B0058DN1Q4

http://amzn.com/B000L4CH3I

If I was parachuted into a project without Ethernet or IP troubleshooting tools, I'd nip $200 from the project budget and get:

1. A USB/Ethernet dongle adapter. Disable all the Windows protocols and services so it can be used purely for network sniffing. I like the ordinary StarTech units, which are inexpensive and robust.
   
   
2. A network tap. While you can configure some switches for port mirroring, and true passive network taps are expensive, you can get a lot of bang for your buck with a DualComm 5-port switch that has one port permanently set up as a mirror output.
   
   
3. Wireshark. Again, there are dedicated-purpose industrial analyzers on the market (I swear by Frontline Test Equipment) but Wireshark is the Swiss Army Knife of IP analysis, free and well understood.
   
   
4. A powered USB hub. You don't need those dongles and switches hanging precariously off your laptop.
   
   That's only chewed up $140 of your budget. Spend the rest on energy drinks and Funyuns.

Agreed that a port would've been a no brainer, but at least 3rd party adapters work this time around (as opposed to Wii and Wii U, which (almost?) exclusively required the Nintendo adapter). I picked up this USB3 gigabit adapter on Amazon. Works out of the box and about $10 less than the officials.

My suggestion is to have two docking stations and then use a usb switch (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY) for your mouse and keyboard.

To be even fancier, you can use Synergy by Symless to share your mouse and keyboard over the network. You could also get this sweet audio mixer to get audio from both computer into a single headset or speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M68UK38

This is basically what I do for my work and home computer.

Super cheap solution to having one kbm. Unless you need to have both ative at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BD8I2OY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The S only has three ports. I was in the same situation where one port was dedicated to an external HDD, the 2nd was for my headset and the 3rd port alternated between Wheel/Charge Cable.

I picked up the Anker and adhered it to the rear of my console. Problem solved and I can now use the Kinect USB adapter

So I've been wanting to make a thread about that, and I just haven't. Would installing something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_o94QybH7VVPMM

work in the back of the console? I want to add another HDD to my XB1s but I don't want it in front and my back two ports are used by a drive and Kinect. Would a hub cause a downgrade in performance? I actually don't really understand how they work truthfully, especially for an Xbox.

The way we do it:

- Use this Anker Hub

- Plug both your REB Hub & USB Camera into the Anker Hub.

- Hub USB connects to your phone with the OTG adapter.

- On the RC Phone: load a New Config; you'll see Expansion Hub Portal 1 and a Webcam. We didn't need to do any further configuration to the Webcam on the phone, so long as the webcam config name matches up with your code (just like calling a motor "left_front_motor").

Usb passthroughs are a more premium thing, and with a quick amazon search, I could not find one in your price range with a usb passthrough. You could always get a cheaper 1080p monitor, and get a usb hub
This is a good monitor

This is a good hub

Edit: formatting

No difference in speed that I noticed. I’m using this
Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra-Slim Portable Data Hub with 12W Power Adapter for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini, iMac, XPS, Surface Pro, Notebook PCs and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192LPK5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fxx-BbYG90KKM

While I agree with you if only because I'm sure Nintendo won't sell it at cost price, USB-C hubs with HDMI, USB 2/3 and power throughput aren't cheap and let's face it, the dock is a USB-C hub in a dock form factor.

I got myself this one for my 12" Macbook. I'd imagine the dock has about the same production costs, add a bit of profit and you'll end up at $90,- sooner than you think.

I think some costs are also due to certification/licensing of for using HDMI, USB2/3 and USB-C tech.

I would be curious if third party USBC docks are locked out. I would love to be able to get one of those portable docks the size of a portable USB power brick and use it on the go. For example using this

I use this one with my 2018 12.9 Pro and it works great -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7C53K2

Side note - I use this 90 degree USB-C cable adapter to keep the hub from dangling when I use the iPad in a standing case -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XBGN5M

I had bought one of these AmazonBasics 7 Port Powered Hubs a few years ago now. Tried it for the hell of it on my PSC. Works like a charm!

I use this one, been good to me for about a year and a half so far. It also has external power, probably recommended if you plan to plug so many things into one USB port.

AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 12V/3A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GX4BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FIXHzbWGHRR4H

So….. I might be a little nuts to even attempt this but a redundant storage array has been a long time want/need after many years and many failed hard drives causing sad faces. I was going to build a glorious file server with lots of cores and CPU’s and RAMs and on and on but money is always a hurdle. So why not with a RPi I thought to myself. After a little research it appears it’s something that is achievable using a few 2.5” USB hard drives and some software easily available for the Pi. I guess what I’m posting here is a suggestion thread. Am I crazy? Will it work? Should I do things differently? What have you tried that has been successful?
Parts List

USB Hub (powered) will fuel the Pi for power and hard drive connectivity.

RPi3B

SATA to USB3

25mm fans to cool the crazyness

I plan to build a case using a CNC I own. Show in the photo attached.

So the reason this is needed is SteamVR gets confused when two headsets are plugged in at the same time...

These are the exact two bits I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945708&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switcher&dpID=51NuwF1AMCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945749&sr=1-5&keywords=powered+3.0+hub

But any bi-directional HDMI switch, and any powered USB 3.0 hub that lets you turn on and off connections should work.

I tried plugging my two Rift cameras into the hub but Oculus software was spitting out "Poor Communication" issues, so those have dedicated ports into the mobo (and it's OK to leave them connected while using the Vive)

This will make QA across platforms a lot easier :D

Try different USB 3.0 port. Try removing all other USB devices but keyboard and mouse.

A powered USB 3.0 hub(one with AC adapter) may help. The USB port may not be providing enough power.

A user in another thread was reporting tracking issues until he added that. I sounds weird since the Vive has it's own power adapter but I guess some stuff must be USB bus powered. Could be something dumb like the AC adapter only powers the screens and the rest is USB bus powered and its right on the edge.

Mine wouldn't track at all when I plugged it into my inateck card. No issues in the intel USBs right on my motherboard.

Just a shot in the dark, but its the only thing I've seen in these threads that may apply, and I didn't reboot when I switched to trying the USBs on my inateck card(I was troubleshooting tinny low audio) or play around with updating inateck drivers so could have been something else other than power but there was a guy that reported the powered USB hub thing in another thread. Here he was talking about sudden losses in tracking due to USB power issues: https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/8etrxc/vive_pro_20_sound_issue_what_is_the_status/dxyxt9i/


He specifically was using this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FR795WA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_imu4Ab2X3H65M but of course you should be able to get away with cheaper I would imagine (I was looking at this one myself: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM)

I tried a tp-link hub usb3.0 with 7 ports but it was giving me issues losing the sensors, then after looking around I found that some people is using the anker hub without issues, I bought it and it is working fine, no problems so far, for the moment I have 2 sensors (waiting for my third) connected to the hub that is connected to a 3 feet usb3.0 extension directly to my motherboard (asus z77) usb3.0 port and the rift is connected to a 3 feet usb3.0 extension directly to my motherboard to a usb3.0 port, I found that this configuration works fine for me.
Here is the link to the hub and its in discount now according to amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484475690&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=anker+hub&psc=1

So here is what I have in my Tesla. Keep in mind that this is also being used with the Nomad wireless charging pad and I’ve had absolutely no issues since switching to this setup.

1. USB 3.0 Hub
   
   
2. MicroSD Card
   
   
3. Flash Memory Reader/Writer
   
   I previously fell victim to the repeated error regarding the read/write speed after the update back in the July/August timeframe. I can no longer find the article but there was a very detailed article on the subject with recommendations on the best drives etc.
   
   I can assure you 100% that this setup has worked fine for me without issue since purchase and that even involves having the wireless charging pad plugged into the USB hub. While it’s not quite as big as your drive it’s enough to last months without formatting it.

I always appreciate when someone goes the extra mile to 3d print their own case. although, aren't usb hubs already under $8? https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Extended-MacBook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1573596004&smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&sr=8-3

I use any of the 100W USB-C hubs from amazon. Check this one out, or any of the similar ones. I have an S10+ and the tab S6 and it works perfectly on both.

I also have one that is rated at 60w, and it works well, but doesnt pass enough power through to charge the phone or tablet while using. (This hub also works on my HP Spectre laptop, so it get a lot of use.



Anker USB C Hub Adapter, 7-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, 100W Power Delivery, USB C Data Port, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 2019/2018/2017, Chromebook, XPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMLTCPL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GW-IDbJB9D74W

VAVA USB C Hub 9-in-1 Adapter with PD Power Delivery. This will passthrough up to 60W. Less than $60 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079GSMZ7G

Got this recently to replace my Satechi one from a year ago that didn't do passthrough properly.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07L32B9C2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I have an Anker hub plugging everything in that you can't see, hiding behind the MacBook. This monitor is not able to power the MacBook as far as I know, but I could be mistaken, I haven't tried. It has two thunderbolt 2 ports, so maybe. The hub itself takes 23 watts so the MacBook ends up only take 38 watts from the included charger, and it charges fine. Yes, you can have a hard drive plugged into the hub for full time Time Machine. It's what I do. You can see it sitting on top of the stereo.

A 34" ultrawide is a big screen plus the 13" from the MacBook. At night it is a bit much, but I turn on Night Mode, and change the profile on the monitor to lower the amount of eye strain.

Thanks for the compliment!

Copied from my comment here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/apple/comments/5tc9ty/showerthought_the_apple_tv_4_is_so_good_no_one/ddmjqhb/

I have eight 8TB external hard drives (Seagate). My Mac mini has four USB 3.0 ports. Two of them are used with Anker 10 port powered hubs. 4 drives are live and 4 drives are backup.

I use Carbon Copy Cloner to clone the drives daily (and manually as needed). It sends me email notifications to let me know all is well.

I have a spare hard drive in case one fails while I'm traveling. This happened over the holidays when I was gone for a month. I simply moved the backup to live, mounted the spare, and made it the new backup. That way I wasn't down to data on just one drive for more than a day.

Additionally, I have a bag full of 4TB WD Passport drives that I take with me.

This Mac mini is only my media server... Plex, Sonos, iTunes and a Photos (originals) backup. I have another Mac mini that is set up in a similar fashion mostly for work backup and archiving. Critical stuff from my media server is also synced over to the backup mini for redundancy, archiving, and syncing across iCloud, Dropbox and OneDrive.

It's all in a cabinet in our home theater that looks like this:
http://i.imgur.com/0ha2kok.jpeg

I had the same problem until I got a powered USB hub:


>Anker 10-Port 60W USB 3.0 Hub
>
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to fix it with a powered USB add-in card, there's really only one to buy now that Oculus has posted their list:

>Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter
>
>https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/USB-3.0/Cards/PCI-Express-USB-3-Card-4-Dedicated-Channels-4-Port~PEXUSB3S44V

Here's the blog post on additional hardware:

>Oculus Roomscale: Extra Equipment
>
>https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-extra-equipment/

Those are called USB ports, not HDMI ports.

And yes, you can use a USB 3.0 HUB to add more USB slots to the console.

Something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1519339748&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=USB+hub&psc=1) should work.

USB-C or USB 3? I can't think of any audio interfaces that use USB-C (correct me if I"m wrong here), and most MIDI to USB adapters I've seen also don't use USB-C.

Actually looking at the specs for the macbook pro and holy god there's literally only 2 ports and they're both USB-C that's so awful. Like I said, most MIDI-to-USB adapters and audio interfaces use USB type A plugs, so you'll need an adapter or a hub anyway to be able to use them (might as well get both in one, imo).

If you get a USB C to USB hub, it would be USB 3 to USB 3, so they should all have the same speed (I think there are sometimes issues of having enough power to send to everything but don't quote me on that and as long as you don't have like 10 things plugged in you're fine).

Another option would be to get an interface with built-in MIDI support but tbh you'll probably need the hub anyways if you plan to do more than 2 things at a time ever.

(If you're not sure where to look, Amazon Basics has a Type C to Type A hub that's USB 3.1, or Anker makes a cheaper one that's got great reviews)

Evecase 5.6 x 5.6 x 3.5 inch Camera Bag.
Chose this after trying too long to find a 3DS bag that didn't have horrible straps. $16 with Prime

Anker USB 3.0 4* USB tap.
Obviously, you need to have more than 1 USB port to do much, like using a mouse with a usb drive.
$9 with Prime.

Cable Matters Mini HDMI male to HDMI Female cable 2 pack.
Minor shaving required. Not tested extensively.
$10 with Prime.

Lexar USB 3.0 Micro SD Card Reader
If you want to use a ferry card or temporarily pop your card of choice into a computer, one of these is incredibly helpful. Plus it's tiny. You can probably get one cheaper if you don't want the 32GB card included.
$33 with Prime.

Standard XBOne Controller.
Works without any need to mess with dongles on Windows 10. It'll even work with headphones/sets.
$35-$50ish, depending on color and luck.

Venom Xbox One Rechargeable Battery Twin Pack.
I don't recommend these in particular, but a rechargeable pack is a must if you don't want to guzzle batteries.
$17 with Prime.

Logitech Wireless Mouse M185.
Pretty reliable, but only has the standard 2 mouse buttons plus tilting and clicking mousewheel. Receiver stores inside nicely.
$13 with Prime.

Kid Icarus Folding 3DS Stand That I Had In A Box.
Needs a little rubber bumper to help secure the Win properly.
$10 with Prime.

Perrix Asymetrical Folding Keyboard.
This one might be tough to find, but it works amazingly. The weird fold system pushes the main hinge off to the side, so it is less likely to fold the moment you put it on your lap. It also completely hides the hinge when the keyboard is unfolded. A bit cramped, but the keys are properly clicky laptop keys.
For image and model reference

Anker PowerCore 26800 Portable Charger*
While looking for my power pack, I found this one. Seems to be a flat upgrade. 26800mAh with 3 4.8A output USB ports. Also has 2 micro usb inputs for double the charge speed?
$59.99 with Prime.

Other possible pack-ins.

Bluetooth Numpads.
If you're primarily going to be gaming, you might want to drop the full keyboard in favor of a bit of space plus one of these. Works nicely with a mouse if you rebind with HIDMacros. Also more tiny airport/college desk friendly. Example unit is $30

Similarly, you might want to try a half controller + mouse option using a device like the Nintendo Joy-Con's left unit. Drivers are still being worked on though, so only get this if you're up for beta troubles.
$50ish, but you can get lucky on eBay.

SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 flash drive.
The one in all the Win lists I've seen, but I figured I'd list it here for convenience.
$45 with Prime.

Batteries
All this stuff takes a total of 3 AAA (2 for the keyboard, 1 for the numpad) and 1 AA battery that will need replacing eventually. I hesitate to recommend rechargeable ones, as I have yet to find a micro charger for them.

Inateck USB 3.0 Ethernet + 3 USB 3.0 port adapter.
You might want to replace the 4 port one with one like this if you plan to do network maintenance, secure data transfer, or just plain download things quickly.

$20 with Prime.

PS4 Controller.
Some people prefer this to the XBOne one. It's lighter in the hand (and bag), comes with a built in rechargeable battery with absurd life, and has a touchpad with 4 physical buttons underneath. Can do some pretty crazy things with the touchpad via Steam's controller customization, but has weaker compatibility with non-Steam applications. Also works with PS4 Remote Play.
Worth noting that, unlike the ps3 controller, this can charge directly from any micro usb power supply. Headset support seems to require the official receiver dongle, sold separately.
Controller Alone: $40-60 Depending on color. Silver's cheapest.
Adapter Alone: $66
Controller + Adapter Bundle: $66

Budget 1 Handed Controller**
Hey, if you want to try 1/2 Controller + Mouse, why start off pricey?
$10

Phew, that's about all I have on hand.

This one?

https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Ultra-Drives-Devices/dp/B00XMD7KPU/

To go low budget and have the best build quality I would suggest the Acer Swift 3. The aluminum body makes it almost toddler proof. It has enough power to manage all you need it too and will last you through college. To get more usb ports you could use a hub

• 14" Full HD Laptop
  
• 7th Gen Intel Core i5-7200U
  
• 8GB RAM
  
• Intel 512GB NVMe SSD
  
• Thin Aluminum Body

Hold my beer

USB long cable
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-6-usb-a-to-usb-a-extension-cable-black/5884106.p?skuId=5884106

USB hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XMD7KPU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495468602&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41kM%2BO9iEpL&ref=plSrch

2 foot long USB hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZR1TS96/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1495468688&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+extended+cable+hub

I bought this Anker last week with a 3.0 extender - after minor tweaking, works like a charm

This one Anker 7-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub with 36W Power Adapter and BC 1.2 Charging Port for iPhone 7/6s Plus, iPad Air 2, Galaxy S Series, Note Series, Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZQ07NE

Yep. It's $36. The Anker one anyway.

Rather than damage a nice piece of furniture just to try and rig something up you might want to consider using a powered USB hub like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-7-Port-Adapter-Charging-iPhone/dp/B014ZQ07NE/ref=zg_bs_17387627011_34?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HYGVS54YGH2WTB6J9MRT

If you need the USB cable to be longer than the one included with the hub you can always swap the cable that comes with the hub with a longer one.

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Cable-Type-1-Pack-Feet/dp/B01KRO8D20/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+cable&qid=1573309561&s=electronics&sr=1-3

> You shouldn't use USB hubs with the Rift or sensors

Actually, and surprisingly, the Anker 7 or 5 port USB3 powered hub has fixed many people's issues. For whatever reason, trying to run 2 sensors + headset through the recommended Inateck card wouldn't work for me, but plugging that Anker hub into the Inateck card, I now have 3 sensors + headset all running though them.

USB is a very well understood standard at this point. Cheapo splitters shouldn't really be giving you an issue, in most cases. The problem could be with the Surface 3, perhaps not having enough power to drive everything you're plugging in.

Regardless of the price of the splitter, it will suck the same amount of power out of your Surface 3. Your phone will demand enough power to charge every single time. Regardless of the device used (Surface Pro vs. Surface 3 vs. PS4 vs. Macbook Pro and etc), the hub will perform the same. My suggestion is not at all device specific, I have a Surface Pro 2, not a Surface 3 and primarily use this Anker Hub. I usually use this hub with my Nintendo Switch anyway, so even further removed from your experience.

But, considering your requirements, you might want to look into a powered USB hub. A powered hub will supplement the power of your Surface's USB port with power from a wall outlet.

[This hub is powered by Micro-USB, like the Surface 3 itself](https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-Portable(-Adapter-Notebook/dp/B0192LPK5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538541500&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+4+port+usb+3.0+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41-z2A-nISL&ref=plSrch). That might be convenient for you, and could yield battery savings and greater compatibility

I was just about to post asking this question, thanks for doing the testing!

What USB hub did you get? (I assume most will work)

Also, what is the 6 touch policy? I use Android Auto for music all the time and haven't really run into any issues.

I was looking to get this hub - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Adapter-Drives-Devices/dp/B0192LPK5M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I'm surprised that this configuration (using an unpowered USB hub) is working for you. Given that powered USB hubs are now legal on the robot for this specific reason, to be safe I'd recommend getting a hub like this one instead, along with any USB battery pack. Then you can power the hub from the USB battery pack to ensure the webcam can draw sufficient power (my understanding was that in your configuration with the phone alone powering the webcam this didn't reliably happen).

I solved the issue with a powered usb hub.

Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra-Slim Portable Data Hub with 12W Power Adapter for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini, iMac, XPS, Surface Pro, Notebook PCs and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192LPK5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vaHWCbK40KTGH

I just ordered this one, works fine

Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra-Slim... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192LPK5M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I purchased;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D378SW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(various dk2 users recommended passive (copper to copper) couplers for use with HDMI connectors, this is what I found on Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194F1MY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(this was recommended for users that don't have two hdmi outputs and use a TV for a monitor, etc. The 970gtx typically has a DisplayPort out. This adapter I believe can be used for either the rift or your external tv etc. My importance is for 4k Video with Audio. This is the go to cable. The 4k capability here is very important with the Rift. This cable is verified to work.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(these or AmazonBasics seem to be the goto USB 3.0 extension cables, DK2/CV1 owners recommend AmazonBasics, but they are all sold out. These are the next best bet. I plan on using this to go through my wall to my Powered USB 3.0 Hubs).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I bought this as its a reliable brand, 4 port usb POWERED hub, you are going to get better results with USB 3.0 when its powered and extended due to obvious cable length limitations.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OSCJ7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(As the DisplayPort to HDMI was by Club3D, this cable is highly rated and reliably 4k Capable, I figured it was a no brainer).

Hope that helps, I feel confident, through my research I should be able to accomplish what I want. I know USB limits you to 15ft, but in my experience when you use powered USB hubs, you can get beyond that. And worst case scenario, you can convert the USB to Cat5 and go much further distances.

I figured, if something doesn't work, I always have use for adapters and hubs. Again my goal was just to get through my wall and have the PC in another room (less than 20foot overall, but I heard the Rift cables are 9ft?) So the Rift setup would end up being 9ft or so in my living room I think.

For multiple external drives you'll want a hub with external power like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0192LPK5M

Performance will be fine, but multiple drives need more power than one port can provide.

http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MJ1K2AM/A/usb-c-digital-av-multiport-adapter

So far this is the most reliable hub that lets you charge, hdmi and usb port.

But I ordred this cuz I wanted more ports and SD slot.

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Shuttle-Delivery-Charging-Output/dp/B019R9ILTG

It's expensive and I might return it for something else. Reading many complaints about hdmi not working etc. Wonder if its QC issue with manufacturing. Some say it works fine, some say it flicker, other say switching cables fixed it.

The USB-OTG spec technically supports this, but most devices do not. You will typically need a custom kernel in order to enable this. I also don't know of any "reputable" manufacturers that a make a cable for this. I found this Y cable which has mixed reviews.

The Galaxy S8 with USB-C is better off though. You can use a hub like this to charge and use USB devices at the same time (and even output to HDMI if you want). Note that the S8 will only charge at the standard 5V/1.6A with a hub like this. Fast charging will not work.

That is just a USB-C hub, he's looking for this

You could also wait for the Henge dock to be released this spring. I can't find many USB-C to DisplayPort multiport hubs, HDMI seems to be the popular available option.

I just run 2x Apple Digital AV adapters for my dual HDMI Dell monitors. I use the built in USB 3.0 hub on the monitors for all my peripherals.

If you travel or commute with your shiny new laptop, how about a second power supply like this one. Also there are a million port replicators, HDMI dongles, etc. so I ended up buying this one, which has just what I need. And you can't go wrong picking up one or two of these.

I've only tried one, but it works fine, with the exception of the card reader.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7C53K2

Might be a bit pricier, but look at this highly rated hub.

Wirecutter supports this as well.

I bought the Satechi hub and wasn't too impressed with it. It worked fine but I prefer a dongle over a hub so it's a bit more flexible.

I have this one and so far so good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K7C53K2

Yes it works. I'm using this: https://www.amazon.de/Anker-Premium-Datenhub-Ethernet-ChromeBook/dp/B071G83L1J/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=Anker+usb+c+hdmi&qid=1563116902&s=gateway&sr=8-6

But something like this should work too: https://www.amazon.de/Anker-Aluminium-Unterst%C3%BCtzt-Konverter-Chromebook/dp/B01MYUCWOK

I’ve got this usb dongle and it doesn’t support thunderbolt. HDMI though. Works on my iPad which doesn’t support thunderbolt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G83L1J

Yep, sure can I use the following: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Adapter-Ethernet-ChromeBook/dp/B071G83L1J/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=anker+usb+c+space+grey&qid=1555384243&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

Any usb hub should work, and it doesn't need to be powered. I use this one to hook up four f310s to my Ouya:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK

I had this issue with my Modi and emailed Schiit about it a while ago. What they told me was that there really is no foolproof way to fix the port power management problem in Windows 8. The easiest/cheapest way they recommended to fix it was to get a USB hub. And it doesn't have to be powered! I got one and I haven't had a single issue with it since.

What I have is basically this here. That's all you have to spend

I'm going to side with the other forums and say, yes, this is more trouble than it's worth. Try to find a wireless webcam. If you can't, the only relatively simple thing I can think of is trying a wireless USB hub

Webcams are mostly software-based (just a sensor and basic hardware) and so wireless USB transmission is really the only option you have.

Not OP, and this is not the same one I have, but it's very similar and I've liked this brand for cables and other gadgets for a while now (no affiliation, no bamboozles):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NGQWL2/

Nine usb 3.0 ports, plus one charging-only port. Simple design, no wacky angles or weird shark fin bullshit, and all the ports are facing the same direction (unlike some hubs that have ports facing every direction like a Y-splitter for garden hoses). And, standalone power supply so you can charge up basically anything on a single hub without drawing from the PC.

I have two of these and they seem to work just fine. I haven’t had any issues with them.

Anker 10-Port USB Data Hub with 60W Power Adapter

I don't use a Case or a Sleeve so I can't comment on that, But for a USB port I use this Amazon USB 3.0 Powered Hub. I also have a StarTech Gigabit network Adapter that works Great! I've tried several different External Controllers(I assume you mean Game Controllers) and the best I've found is my PS4 Controller. It connects to the SP3 and works with out any real setup. I also Purchased this last night to carry it in (it wont be in for a few days so I can't comment on the quality) STM Alley Small

Never seen a Surface like device with an Ethernet port. I doubt one exists. They are mobile devices so an Ethernet port is counter to it's primary function.

>absolute best (reliable & smallest) usb adapter for Ethernet?

Hard to say... reviews are scarce. There's this from 2013:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2415501,00.asp
Still a good choice and there are interesting options...
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/. 476 reviews 4.5 of 5

This from 2016 ... but 10/100??? Not fastest.
http://www.wirelesshack.org/our-picks-for-best-usb-to-ethernet-adapter.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ 804 reviews 4.3 of 5


Amazon popularity contest and products I have had good luck with
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ 807 reviews 4.2 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC0H9IE/ref=psdc_13983791_t3_B0095EFXMC 584 reviews 4.7 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586/. 767 reviews 4.5 of 5


So maybe the Anker model however... would you want fries ports with that?

The Wii LAN adapter is a USB2 10/100 Fast-Ethernet LAN adapter using the ASIX AX88772 chipset. The AX88772 is a fairly widely used chip, and thus available in many third party adapters, all of which are compatible with the Wii / Wii U. Many of these adapters even advertise as being compatible with the Wii or Wii U, and all this means is that use the AX88772. These adapters will also work with the Switch, but will still be limited by 10/100 USB2 speeds , which in practice are slower then 802.11ac (the latest WiFi standard), so using a USB2 LAN adapter isn't a great option.

The official Switch LAN adapter by HORI is USB3 10/100/1000 gigabit LAN adapter using the ASIX AX88179.

TL;DR: The Nintendo Switch is compatible with USB3 Gigabit LAN adapters that use the AX88179 chipset. These will support much higher bandwidth, and will have lower latency than a USB2 10/100 adapter (such as the Wii U LAN adapter). The following adapters should all work:

Pluggable

Startech

Diamond

TRENDnet

UGREEN

I used to do tech support at home and the business would monitor my work computer. So I used a USB switcher to switch my KB + M to my non-monitored desktop when I was slacking.

This was the product I used: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY

I do it with a usb switching hub. The hub has 4 ports for a mouse/keyboard and then 3 cables, one to the mac, one to the pc, and then one with a button that I can press that switches them. Works fine, takes about 4-5 seconds to switch between the computers which can sometimes feel a little long.

I actually don't use a switch for mouse/keyboard. I use a program called Synergy. You can download it here.

It's fantastic! I have the bottom computer on a VPN and port forward in to my top PC, works with no lag and can copy/paste between. Also have my kids computers next to me and a raspberry pi all connected(effectively 5 computers, 7 monitors) with 1 keyboard/mouse!

I do use a USB hub switch though.

Amazon basics hasn't failed me for other things:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510863587&sr=8-1&keywords=external+power+usb+hub

Exactly what you need.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

This happened to me a few times after getting extansion cables for my hmd(O+). I read a powered usb hub can fix it, so I got one off amazon. It seems to work. I also had my usb microphone plugged into the hub after I got it, and for whatever reason my pc wasn't recognizing the mic, so I stopped using the hub and plugged it directly into my pc(along with the HMD). I got the static sound again, and plugged the HMD back into the hub, and hasn't happened since, so I'm pretty sure its not a placebo.

I use this one AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFGH80/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure your inverter has a larger power rating than the hair dryer. I know hair dryers are usually in the 1000w range. Keep in mind inverters are not 100% efficient. It depends on the model, but I would assume it's only 90% efficient, so a 1000w inverter can only put out 900w. (thinking about it, a 1000w inverter is probably called 1000w because that's what it puts out. It might consume 1100w, but that doesn't really matter to you)

You have a few options for connecting USB. If you are getting an inverter, your easiest option would be to plug it into your inverter with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473788166&sr=1-9&keywords=usb+hub

If you want to connect it to 12v (which yes, you would connect in parallel with the inverter), you can get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Saicoo-Charger-Featuring-Intelligent-Charging/dp/B00LMACBHW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1473788400&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub+12v

Hope that helps!


Also, I would confirm that one 140w panel would be enough for your demands.
You can check out a solar map

(USA): http://www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-information/sun-hours-us-map

(Australia): http://www.geni.org/globalenergy/library/renewable-energy-resources/oceania/Solar/australia_files/solar-australia.gif

to see just how many total solar hours your region can get in a day. Best case scenario, you get 6 hours of full sunlight a day. With a 140w panel, that's 840w total in a day. Is that enough?

If you just need to charge your phones, use this Anker USB charger. Otherwise, if you wanted to connect your phones to your computer and still charge them, I would use this Amazon Basics USB hub. I have three of the Amazon hubs, one on my computer for just regular USB devices, one for my farm and one for my brother's farm. I also recently used the Anker charger to set up a farm for my brother-in-law at his house. Look at the power requirements of your phones before you buy one or the other. Lower-end devices, like the Hydros, Galaxy Rush, or the LG Fuel, will work fine on the hub. If you got higher-end devices, like the Moto G, you would be better with the Anker charger.

Nope, you need to find out how many amps the power supply is before you buy any hub. This hub runs solely on USB power. A single USB port can put out something like 500mAh. This will be enough power to feed 3-4 small phones. More than that and it will not charge them. You need something like this This hub is widely used here and has the power to feed all 7 ports. Unfortunately, there really is no way to "cheap" out when buying a hub. You simply must have a powered one to run a Perk farm off of it. Another cheaper option is to buy a few powerstrips and use the phones AC Adapters. Though this creates lots of cable clutter.

It was a bad idea on early model Pi's because of noise through the power circuitry. These days it's not a big deal. I have the same setup with all my Pi's, one less wall-plug to have to deal with. As long as you have a B+ or 2 you are fine. Just make sure it's a powered hub and has enough for all the devices you're plugging into it. Also, some hubs don't power on until the host powers on, and won't work. I personally have several of these Amazon Basics 7 port hub and they work great. Don't bother with buying a USB 3.0 hub.

I've been using THIS for just over a year with zero issues. Works like a charm. Amazing for being so low-cost.

It's pretty straight forward:

• two USB 3.0 active extention cables $35 each (do you really need two?)
  
• the USB hubs must be powered $16-45
  
• no need for 3.5mm audio cables, use usb audio $7
  
• HDMI and DVI cables: just buy normal ones $20-30 each.
  
  

I use this one, it works very well for me.

Something like this USB hub?

Sure np, there is a $60 tuner available for XBOX One. I picked up a 50-mile Clearstream Eclipse antenna, connected it directly to the tuner, then the tuner plugs into an open USB port on the back of your XONE. If you're like me I already had a port devoted to my Kinect, and another to a 3TB drive so this filled up all my ports (you can buy a hub for relatively cheap that takes care of this problem). Anyway...once you plug everything in the XBOX will recognize your new device and ask if you would like to scan for channels, it also asks for your zip code for the on-screen OTA channel guide that looks quite similar to most cable companies. Finally, it asks if you would like to devote 4 gigs of your HD space to the 30-minute pause function. Very easy to set-up, everything plays right through the XBOX OneGuide app.

Edit: Use this website to see how many free OTA channels you have in your area, as well as how far they are away from you...this will help determine the strength of the antenna you need to buy. https://www.fcc.gov/media/engineering/dtvmaps

Its an USB issue. I know, you have probably tried different usb ports ranging from 2.0 to 3.0. You would switch it and it would work just fine for a few days then you are back to reseating the hdmi plug.

There are 2 solutions:

1. Buy this and install it into your machine.
   
   
2. Be cheap and buy this
   
   Now option 2 should not work but it does. I had the same exact problem as you. I tried everything and it got to the point the only other option was buying a usb 3.0 pci e card. However, I had option 2 laying around and realized I needed more usb 3.0 ports for my other stuff so I figured why not try my rift. Its been 3 months and I havent had to reseat the hdmi cord or try different usb ports.
   
   Only issues i have now is what looks like white static whenever it is dark in the game or loading something, but it is all gone when the game starts. Also, sound. My rift sound will cut off after 30 minutes of playing so I have to re-enable it via sound manager.
   
   Hope this helps because I know how frustrating it was.

So, I have it figured out, mostly.

I had my flash drive (incorrectly calling it a usb stick) plugged into an unpowered usb hub (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) because I also have a Chromecast attached to the tv, powered by the TV's usb port via the hub.

The hub specs say to not have a combined load of over 900ma for stable connections. From what I can tell, the Chromecast draws between 250-420ma depending on idle/use. I can't figure out what the flash drive uses, but somehow both devices being connected to the hub is causing the issue. When I plug the flash drive directly into the TV, everything works like it's supposed to. For note purposes, the 4k TCL TV I have lists itself as being able to provide 1500ma from the usb port. The flash drive is usb 2.0 and the unpowered hub is usb 3.0.

Next step is to try a powered usb hub and see if that fixes everything.

Here is the Roku info on the usb port and hubs, etc. https://support.roku.com/article/230160368-why-does-my-roku-streaming-device-not-recognize-my-external-usb-drive-

In my experience, the portal has a mind of its own. I gave up on trying to fix it and now use a powered HUB with switches.

This is the one I have. It's a press of button instead of crawling behind the PC. There's also a non-powered version that's a bit cheaper.

Not 100% sure what you mean.

I have a USB hub which plugs into my computer and gives me extra ports, but also has a power adaptor so it provides consistent power. This also means it can charge things when the computer is off.

This is the one I use but they are easy to find.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDI1-ac_d_pm&keywords=powered+usb+3.0+hub&pd_rd_i=B00TPMEOYM&pd_rd_r=1090fd64-b327-442c-a523-53a8600354e6&pd_rd_w=dMv0D&pd_rd_wg=UXoff&pf_rd_p=02e79b16-eab7-4369-852f-d04a58a4d9b5&pf_rd_r=0ZVQ7BTCA8G2QYQ22VMZ&psc=1&qid=1574201396

Huh. That VMware idea is an out-of-the-box one I hadn't thought of. Might give it a try if I can't get the other way to work.

Think it would change anything if I hooked up a powered-USB hub to the Pi, then that monitor to the USB hub (like this one for example)?

Seems like a lot of negative thoughts on these. I just got a set 3 weeks ago and I absolutely love them. Completely changed by gaming experience, I've had no issues with the software (which is the same one I use for my G502 mouse and G11 KB), and I am very happy with it. I hooked the dongle up to one of these so I can just hit the button to rapidly switch between headphone audio and speakers. I love them... just don't wear them in public, they look huge and ridiculous, basically gaming only.

Sure, here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473087310&sr=8-5&keywords=anker+USB+hub

I have the VR stuff connected directly to the motherboard (except for the sensor for the Oculus which is going through the hub). The headphone Amp/Dac, Keyboard, Mouse, and mic are connected to the hub so they aren't that throughput hungry.

Gotcha! Well, I can recommend this.

Lots of good suggestions here. Just make sure you also get him a powered USB hub. It can't handle having more than two devices hooked up to it. I bought this one:Amazon Basics USB 3.0 Powered USB Hub It works great, and it gives the ability to hook quite a few more devices to the B+ model.

I was nervous reading about issues with extending the cables of my O+ that I had just got since my pc is behind a wall in another room. I got mine to work first try by going:

PC 3.0 USB <- Male- USB 3.0 10 Feet -Female-> <- Male USB Powered Hub Female-> <-O+ USB

GPU HDMI <- Male HDMI 2.0 10 Feet Male -><-Female HDMI Coupler Female -><-O+ HDMI

​

I got the usb 3.0 Male/Female cable from a local store. The rest from amazon. The usb hub is plugged in with 5V power supply and the extension cord HAD to be plugged into the hardwired male cable on the hub. It does not work by plugging the extension and odyssey into the 4 hub slots.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GG57JO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GDZHOI6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DQFGH80/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Depending on the cost of a fourth, the best option could be to buy a powered USB hub as you mention. This one seems like it could be decent. The only inconvenience is that you need access to a power supply and it is a laptop (meant to be portable). I suppose with equipment etc. this wouldn't be a huge problem though. I use a similar hub (forget the name, I can check for you later if you're interested) and it works fine; they are very much plug-and-play items.

You need a USB HUB.

Amazon have their own brand that is very well built.
There are many cheaper alternatives but you run the risk of not meeting electronic safety regulations which could result in:

A) A house fire.
B) Fried USB ports.

Link to the hub

Source: USB Hub owner

no... that is a good thing (i have one), and it will charge multiple devices, but OP wanted it to be able to sync them all to his computer too. a simple powered usb hub like this would do it:

http://amzn.com/B00DQFGH80

note that it has both a power adapter and an "upstream" usb connecting it to the pc. if you have only usb, it probably won't charge all devices full speed. if you have only power, it obviously won't connect the devices to the computer.

Supposedly this one works as well.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404582856&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basics+hub

Cracked screen doesn't impact perk, as long as it's just the glass and not the digitizer.

My household has seven Moto Gs with damaged glass and seven Fuels currently running. The performance is pretty close, though the quad core Motos do a little bit better. Just be aware that this extra power comes with a cost; the Motos are a little harder to wire up because they need more juice to run than a Fuel does. Mine will not, for example, run off that seven-port usb hub that's popular around here, while the Fuels will and do.

The Motos are also a little more annoying to reboot, though rooting will fix that. (My next project.)

I'd recommend [this](amazonbasics 7 port usb 2.0 hub tower with 5v/4a power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zsFrDb0ABFCZS)
Our customers at work use them for multiple POS devices

Vertical807 - Flight Sim Addons/Specs/Sim Settings - November 28th, 2017


Peripherals:

Mouse: Senlleo Gaming Mouse

Keyboard: Sonfan Backlit Gaming Keyboard

Controls: Logitech G940 Flight System

Head Tracking: Track IR5 with hat-clip

Headset: Sades SA902B 7.1 Channel Virtual USB Surround Stereo

USB Hub: AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Computer Specs

CPU: Intel I5-6500, default clock

GPU: Gigabyte GTX1060 G1 Gaming

Motherboard: ASUS Micro ATX DDR4 LGA 1151 Motherboards H110M-E

Case: Corsair Carbide Series 200R Compact ATX

RAM:
Ballistix Sport LT 8GB Single DDR4 2400 MT/s

Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB 2133MHz DDR4

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Prepard3d_v4.1

Scenery:

FlightBeam:

KSFOHD, KDEN, KIAD, KPHX

FSDreamTeam

KFLL
, KDFW
, KMEM
, KLAX
, KLAS
, KORD

ImagineSim

KATL

Taxi-2-Gate

KMCO, KSTL

DRZEWIECKI DESIGN

NY AIRPORTS V2 X, NEW YORK CITY X V2, MIAMI CITY X

FlyTampa

KTPA-Rebooted
, KMDW
, TNCM full-extended
, Toronto

SunSkyJet

KPHL

LatinVFR

KEVW
, TJSJ
, KMIA
, KRDU


Orbx

Global Base
, Vector
, OpenLC
, TreesHD

Turbulent Designs

TerraFlora

Weather:

[ActiveSky for P3d_V4 with Cloud Art](

Running Global Configuration!

Aircraft:

PMDG

PMDG 737 Base Package
, PMDG 737 Expansion
, PMDG 777 Base Package
, PMDG 777 Expansion

TFDI

B717-200

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P3D Settings and Visual Modifications:

PTA



ENVTEX

Settings and textures are in Thopat preset .rar file! Follow them as closely as possible!

-Thopat Preset



Game settings


[My P3D.cfg](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N0KbATTwi9WJndWUF-F1sR0pAvEK1lsz/view?usp=sharing)

[Traffic](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q2i8E89NFQMSXqWk4_1cL6aFL1kfOh2L/view?usp=sharing)

[Display](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nAWVmQbWbsXmfLDbLp8v3V1G460hyGVp/view?usp=sharing)

[Lighting](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvNhElk211apWxDuNlZ2Mda6v0zfK7px/view?usp=sharing)

[Realism](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gxyTBU7CPe66Mzw5eAj-TlcPmmLFrAJp/view?usp=sharing)

[Weather](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AHuUMnoN0d0zip3Pcpw7G5eBcwzgrYbP/view?usp=sharing)

[World](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BNSaLIxPmn4TrZmJXzmwvxh_bLTnvCO0/view?usp=sharing)


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I also do live-streaming on YouTube every once in awhile, check out my channel if you'd like!

Virtual Airlines:

Delta Virtual

United Virtual

Southwest Virtual

FedEx Virtual

I can give recommendations and personal experience. Unfortunately, the ones I have experience with are no longer for sale OR they cost an obscene amount of money.

Recommendations:
Amazon Basics makes a good hub (5V/4A).
Aukey makes a good one too (12V/3 or 4A).

Personal Experience:
I have the Sentey Version of this USB hub. Bought it years ago for much less than what is advertised now. 12V/4A. This stays at home because I absolutely love it.

I also have the Unitek 6 port USB 3.0 + 2 charging ports hub (12V/3A). This is strictly for work use because it was cheap ($15) and it's super reliable. No longer available.

> AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 5V/4A Power Adapter by AmazonBasics

here you go

doing links on mobile is annoying

Lies.

http://imgur.com/6VcrZBv

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4

http://superuser.com/questions/365273/why-are-usb-ports-oriented-differently-on-different-devices

I've now wasted way too much time figuring out why mine is upside down. Is there NO STANDARD? Nope.

AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 5V/4A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_C-95wb6EMGSSZ

Not sure how many ports you wanted, and amazon has a fair amount of options under 40 for powered hubs. As for frying the pi I have a hard time believing that it would happen with out deliberately forcing excessive current through the port.

Yes there are, for example: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4/

Most likely need a powered USB hub. Guessing it's a seagate external?

something like this

Get a powered usb hub.

And scanners. Both my Fujitsu and Plustek scanners use them. So does my Amazon usb hub.

I just tried it and it worked - had an Xbox controller and keyboard plugged into the two higher voltage front ports of the hub and the USB B cable to the R3B+ and both the controller and keyboard worked fine.

Don't know if it matters, but here's the hub I have (comes with a USB B cable and AC adapter):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFGJR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check the amp rating on the powered hub and makensure each port get enough power.

I used this one 4A powered hub from Amazon Basics,I used did another project with a pi, arduino, WiFi dongle and it works great.

I think it's this one.

This is the exact one I have: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6GX4BG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had it already and it worked fine for what I needed. I think pretty much any USB 3 hub should work (maybe somebody else knows for sure?). FYI - Hubs only support peripherals, not hard drives for expansion.

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FnLGAb9PV01VV

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&ascsub&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Just slap on of these on the back and you get 3 more USB ports

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JQ.iDbRFJG58E

I use 2 of those.

How would you vocalise the difference between this and this? Would you say the latter is a hub with the capabilities with a switch?

Edit: The second item calls itself a "Switcher Box Hub" to state the difference.

Wow okay, so the problem is this USB port extender.

If my headset cable is connected to that and I plug it into my PC, I get the massive stuttering seen above UNTIL I turn off my PC. I'm going to try to see if anything plugged in there wrecks my PC, or if it is just the headset cable.

One is a usb 3 and the other is usb 2 (for compatibility issues)

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches (HB-UM43) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eF2IDbXEHVYW8

There are USB hubs with switches to deactivate the specific port assigned to it. Dirt cheap but should help you.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+hub+with+switch&qid=1568980604&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M8e7Bb8RAAQ3H

This will do the trick. Actually, it's sort of overkill. But it'll work

Ok so I think I'm narrowing some things down. Per /u/Doc_E_Makura I ran CrystalDiskInfo on each drive and they read as good with no abnormalities.

I then ran the Windows disk error check as described and also found no errors (well, the new drive did have errors from the bad files copied over from the previous attempts, but I formatted and it is error free now).

I then opened the MiniTool Partition Wizard and started to try and figure out the method for imaging the drive over. I noticed that it kept every few seconds popping up a dialogue box saying something to the effect of "updating partition drives" (can't remember exact phrase). But it was happening so frequently I got the impression of a bad connection in some sense.

I then opened an explorer window just to see if I could open the drives, and I started getting an error of "Power surge on the USB port. Unknown USB Device needs more power than the port can supply." This error popped up multiple times then the drives disappeared. This surface pro only has one USB port, so I bought this USB adapter which was only $10. Could this be causing the issues? If so, what's the best alternative for a higher quality USB adapter that can power two external HDs?

The USB power surge error disabled the USB port, and the drives wouldn't show up after when plugging them in individually until I restarted.

Thanks so far for the advice, hopefully I can get this figured out.

A splitter isn't what you want. You want a USB Hub. No sense at all getting a USB 2 hub. If you are going to be using heavy duty stuff (multiple hard drives, for instance) or want to charge things at fast charge rate, get a powered hub.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?
I use this one, it has switches so I can turn the ones I want on and the others off. I haven’t had any issues. Really good reviews.

I haven't used it but this might help:

https://github.com/meleu/RetroPie-joystick-selection

EDIT

You might be able to hack together a hardware solution with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4H8ZCC OR

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O

Stuff like this happening is the reason I picked up a couple of USB hubs with individual switches. Any time something doesn't work right I can reset it, or turn off other controllers to trouble shoot it nice and easy.

I have the Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches ($6 on Amazon using code 360OFFUM43) that I discovered from this post over on /r/buildapcsales. I have the two Rift sensors connected to it, but I have my headset connected to my Clevo's HDMI port and one of it's four USB 3.0 ports. When my wheel (T300RS GT), shifter (TH8A), and wireless mouse dongle are connected to the laptop USB ports, that leaves one open port on the hub for my cell phone charging cable, and of course when I'm using the wheel, I don't use the game controller, so I keep that switched off.

My laptop also has a USB type-C USB 3.1/Thunderbolt combo port, and I was going to get a hub that connects via Thunderbolt with 4 USB 3.1 ports @ 10gbps (around $40), but I couldn't pass up on that $6 deal, and it works perfectly fine for all that I use it for.

Regarding the better battery life on the touch controllers - I imagine it would save on battery life if you switch off the sensor ports on the hub when not in use.

I changed to using an external SSD for my PS4, absolute game changer all for under £50,
SSD: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077SL4FZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Enclosure: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0765D6NJV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


USB 3.0 Hub (if short on free USB ports): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gandim la fel, mi l-am comandat pe asta acum cateva zile, trebuie sa ajunga luni.
Si mai am hubul asta ce-i conectat la priza.

Plug both in. It wouldn't matter unless you move it. If you really want to switch one off for whatever reason, you can always get a usb hub with switches for this.

Same issue. I picked up this small USB hub with power switches from Amazon to solve it:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Instead of that, I would go with a hub like this. A hub should work fine on the Shield and as long as it's usb 3.0 there should be no discernable difference. A hub is basically just an extension cord. It's not doing any data transfer itself.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522811031&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41FAbxXGUBL&ref=plSrch

In case this helps...

I use this for my dongles. I would guess you could run this through a wall with a usb extension cable. The only problem I could see you running into might be power degradation if the cable is really long. I guess you'd need to try it to know for sure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure, here you go https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This happens to me on a regular basis. And it's a known problem, as someone else has said.

To fix the issue of the moment, you have a few options, all sort of boil down to the same thing:

1. Shut off the bike and restart
   
2. Pull the USB and reinsert
   
3. Use a small USB hub and disconnect the USB and reconnect via switch on the hub.
   
   For a hub, I use this one so all I have to do is flip open my dash compartment and toggle the switch for the USB to disconnect/reconnect it. I also have a couple other drives with a ton of a variety of music on them.
   
   Also - with the hub you need to use a low profile USB drive. I use SanDisk Cruzer Fit. Currently 32GB for $12, $18 for 64GB

You could try using a powered USB hub. Maybe try the big brother of your current one and see how that works out.

Not sure if this hub will work with WMR headsets but something like this would let you kill the power to the headset by pressing the button.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00TPMEOYM?th=1

I have this. You can use one external harddrive or USB 3 device on this without issues, but it's going to be problematic with multiple devices because of power draw limitations. Plus, unless you're mainly only going to be reading off those devices, multiple devices will be bandwidth starved through this. This version comes with an external power adapter to mitigate power draw issues

Probably not, if by "externals" you mean spinning rust hard drives.

They only have as much power as the USB host does.

There is an input for a 5VDC adapter already on this particular hub, but it's probably easier/better/cheaper to buy them together as a kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=emc_b_5_t

I have this one. It's great because it allows you to cut power to the USB ports on the hub you're not using, saving more juice to those you are (while also draining your machine a bit less, if you're not connected to the wall). I believe there is also a 6- or 8-port one from the same line.

Yes, this product is not what you are looking for. This hub has a unique feature that you can power on/off individual ports, but for PSC you need a hub that is externally powered (it comes with an adapter).

Your best bet is to get a USB 2.0 powered hub (usually with a 5V 2A adapter). USB 3.0 powered hubs can be expensive, and PSC can't utilize them fully.

There is a version of this product with an external power adapter:

• https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM

It's possible something has caused the Macbook to now provide less power or the Scarlett to draw more. Maybe the USB power's been just barely adequate all along.

A good test would be to try another USB hub with its own power supply > Example.

No, but this one would: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=powered+usb+hub&qid=1564515110&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Basically you just want one with an included 5V/2.5A Power Adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_emwmzbKG3ZJJ0

Here is a pretty basic powered USB 3.0 hub with a power switch on each socket.

Note that it has a 4.5 star rating... With 11,000 reviews.

I've had an Odyssey for three weeks now with a 10 ft. HDMI and USB 3.0 extension. I had to use a powered 3.0 hub because I was having horrible tracking issues without one and random blue screens. I believe USB 3.0 is rated for a max of 900mA which I think can be tedious when using passive extensions. Here's what I bought :

Sabrent USB 3.0 powered hub: Link


AmazonBasics USB 3.0 extension : Link

AmazonBasics HDMI extension: Link

I just have the cable running along the floor adjacent to the wall that my desk sits next to so I haven't had the need for any mounting applications, can't help there I'm afraid. I'll be happy to try to help if you have any questions.

Like this one?

I would recommend this one for the pi 3:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM

Plug in the external power to the hub and then make a loop with the pi.


Ie: Hub plugs into pi for data transfer. Then Plug the up power cable for the pi into the hub. This creates a closed loop with a power switch to turn the pi off and on.This allows you to hook up an hdd or anything else that would need external power to run. From the remaining 3 slots on the hub.

This one works like a charm:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/

Here ya go!

I have that cheap ass "hub"! Gotta love aliexpress, right? It doesn't seem to work. But for like 1.99 I had to try it.

In my experience powered hubs work MUCH better with the Raspberry Pi. Even my "good" tiny passive hub has random disconnects (can't keep the keyboard plugged in or I can't type anymore). But with a powered hub it works just fine.
This is the one I am using now and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM

I like the power switches, they make it easier to plug in a power hog without having to disconnect everything else.

I'm using a new Alienware 15 r3 (i7 6820K, GTX 1070) If you watch your deals you can get one for around $2.2K or less (got mine for $2K after tax.) They have some component issues they are working through at the moment but for the most part it runs like a dream. My AW15 replaced an enormous watercooled i7 4790K, GTX 980 ti Classified rig. Steam VR benchmarks on the two machines are within a few decimal points of each other at 10.8 & 11 respectively (Classified out ahead.) I have an Oculus and a Vive (and a PSVR & Gear VR) both run without a hitch, supersampling up to around 1.3 to 1.5 across the board (still need to do some fine tuning.) I run both HMDs through the Vive Linkbox plugged into the Thunderbolt 2 / DVI on the AW15, plug a second monitor into the HDMI (though I only use the external monitor) and still have a Thunderbolt 3 and AW Amplifier Port open for further horsepower and lighting fast storage, though it probably won't be needed for at least a year from now. 3 remaining USB 3 ports (one type C) I'm using 2 Anker 7 Port USB 3 Hubs for all other connections (3 Rift Sensors, Link Box, wireless keyboard, external RAID enclosure) everything seems to be working exceptionally well. You can get larger HUBs but you will overload a single USB 3 port so it is best split them up. All and all I am very happy with the switch to the laptop and I have room to grow with the TB3 and AW Amplifier for the future.

Anker 7 Port Hub
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483735971&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb+3+hub

Vive Link Box
https://www.vive.com/us/accessory/link-box/

Depending on what you're doing, it might be worth it to get one of these bad boys: http://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1464720967&sr=8-11&keywords=amazon+flash+drive+hub

Then a set of these: http://www.amazon.com/20-4GB-Flash-Drive-Metallic/dp/B00KLEQEKK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464721003&sr=8-5&keywords=bulk+flash+drive

(Or whatever size you need) Edit- You might have a better time with 3.0 - these are 2.0

Then just create a folder or a share on your machine, plug these bad boys in, and just copy/paste your data to all the flash drives, or use an app like BeyondCompare to do it for you.

Because they're following the USB 2.0 and 3.0 standards.

USB 2.0 standard -- 500ma
USB 3.0 standard -- 900ma

That's why hubs that also support fast charging are advertised as such.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_3.0

Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-Macbook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ (well known brand) or https://www.amazon.com/iDuo-Hub-3-0-Charging-Android/dp/B00TEAL0QU/ (generic brand). If you want just 4 ports then try this search: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_five_bro_1?fst=as%3Aoff&rh=n%3A281413%2Ck%3Ausb+3.0+hub+fast+charging%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A2057435011&keywords=usb+3.0+hub+fast+charging&ie=UTF8&qid=1502304477&rnid=2057421011

I see everyone's talking about getting new cards with USB ports... would a powered 10-port hub work?

This is the one I use and it has been an absolute lifesaver so far:
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_3

This one is what many say works with the sensors.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-Macbook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502885779&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=anker+60w+hub&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-Macbook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=psdcmw_281413_t2_B06XGCZB7M

extremely good deal right there. super solid hub.

My recommendation: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-Macbook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/

don't know much about 8920 model because it will be delivered tomorrow, lol.

Why don't you get a usb port with a power adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDVCQ84

i used this one for two years. working pretty well. charging all kinds of devices from the port like mouse, iphone and wireless earbuds.

I use the big usb-phone charger from anker - it can charge about 10 phones.. and i have had it running 4 pis at once.. this is not a Powered USB HUB.. but a Multi Port USB charger.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B00YRYS4T4/

60 W of Power!

Here is a slightly smaller one.. but 63W of Power.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUTIUEA/

I ran a few pis, and was charging my tablet and phone.

From what i quickly googled - a Pi3 under full load - may use 4W of power.

https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/5033/how-much-energy-does-the-raspberry-pi-consume-in-a-day


So a 60W Supply should be able to handle 10 pi's but i would keep an eye on it to make sure it does not get hot.



I also have a 10 Port USB 3 powered USB HUB - with 3 'power only' usb ports. This lets me use the hub on the pi and power the same pi. But it is not 'exactly' what you asked for. But it is 60W - and very handy.. and can fast charge your phone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Find one with a built in Network port - for a pi zero - is also handy. :)


Wow - I have way to many electronic things for my Pi Collection. :)

I have this.

Connected to it I have an external HD, thumb drive, controller charging cable, mic transmitter, mic charging cable, and a phone charger (hooked up to the fast charge port). I haven't had any problems and I've been using it on my S since December. I have the Kinect plugged directly into the console though.

How about I try it tomorrow since it will be delivered by than and I'll tell you if it works with the one I bought. Than? Then? Did I use the right one.... I think it might be then... :)

Edit, I bought this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit, wait, it'll be here on Tuesday.... not tomorrow... rofl

I looked into the reviews on Amazon for that specific hub. Here is on the only review that references the Rapsberry Pi: link

Unfortunately all he/she states is the hub "doesn't play nice with the raspberry pi".

Also, if you want to know which ones work and which ones are having issues, reference the RPi Powered USB Hubs Compatibility List. Although this one doesn't have the hub you purchased on the list, it would be advantageous for others if you updated the database.

Hope this helps!

edited too many times to count

Although Robo Recall was a bit too arcadey for my tastes, it's still very fun and free, but Lone Echo... omfg, Lone Echo is amazing. Absolute must-play.

I also recommend Wilson's Heart, Obduction, and Robinson (which just got Touch support!) if you are into VR adventure games.

If you are into racing, and have all the right gear (seat + wheel + pedals), check out Dirt Rally and Project CARS 2, as well. They are incredible. I've noticed that people don't tend to have nausea problems with racing games when they are using a seat and wheel.

If you are ready to step things up, Elite: Dangerous is the one VR experience that keeps me coming back more than any other (Dirt Rally comes in second). You can easily spend a lot of money on it, though. Add a HOTAS setup, Voice Commander, and a VC voice pack, and you've added $300 to your purchase price... but once you do, it's no longer a game... you are genuinely living in space. I don't even really think of it as a game anymore. It's a second life. It's real.

Oh and as others have mentioned... don't leave your Rift near a window. Those damn fresnel lenses can damage your screen like a magnifying glass focusing on an ant... and Oculus will NOT repair it, not even for a fee.

Also, I strongly recommend mounting your cameras to a wall or ceiling. These are the mounts I use and recommend: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/

I've found just about any USB3 extender cable works, but apparently, some people's motherboards don't output enough power for longer cables. If you run into that problem, use a USB3 or USB-C (if your mobo has one) based, independently powered hub. I've found you can get away with 2 cameras running over a single powered hub connected to a USB3 port, or 4 cameras connected to a hub connected to a USB-C port.

Here's the USB3 hub I recommend to everyone with power issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/

Edit: Oh, and if you already have Alien: Isolation, there's now a mod that restores the game's original VR support for CV. Keep in mind, it still has plenty of rough edges and is gamepad only, but playing through that in VR is one my most cherished gaming memories.

This is the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port-Data/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484686464&sr=1-3&keywords=anker+usb+hub

It works great, no issues. :D

Anker

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU

I use this USB hub to let me plug more than two things into the front USB ports. It's cheap and effective.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port-Data/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_25?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466656064&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=amazon+2+port+usb+3.0+cable+hub&psc=1

and 2 of these

https://www.amazon.com/Female-Socket-Super-Extension-Cable/dp/B00MMVMIRI/ref=sr_1_39?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466655990&sr=1-39&keywords=usb+3.0+splitter+cable

Anker:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6BwYAb657QH1F

I use [this one](Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b31.yb19SGTT7) and have the PU plugged in to it with no issues whatsoever.

You would need the power brick, yes. Get one of these instead - small enough to always keep in your bag without issue.


Anker 4 port USB 3.0 Hub (nice and thin. I own this one. Ten dollars!)


Anker 4 port USB 3.0 Hub (bigger, nicer to put on desk, think it is long enough to not "hang" off the usb plug on the SP)

Sending it to Sony will cost you more in the long run, try a USB hub.
Here's a link to a cheap affordable one Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Macbook, Mac Pro / mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, Notebook PC, USB Flash Drives, Mobile HDD, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vIlpzbMBRVAHC

Link to a adapter for the controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075451QFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kyY4BbVCCWFVZ
Link to the USB adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077FY7831/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4zY4BbZEWT287
Link to the USB hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qBY4BbFWZMR51

Like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=asc_df_B00XMD7KPU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076677096&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9084696496146917929&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011027&hvtargid=pla-379048175402&psc=1

Yes, but I just googled a bit.
It seems like the Nintendo Switch supports USB Hubs, meaning you could just buy any USB hub and if it doesn't work you could always send it back. Just do it through Amazon.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539641683&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub

I was finally able to find a reddit user to trade so that I'll have two lightning cables for the front dock (I have no interest in wireless charging).

Does anybody have a recommendation for something I can use to split the USB port so I can charge an iPhone while also using the dashcam? I was looking at this Anker unit on Amazon. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_45IBCb16H523D

I had the same problem. And plugging in the charger at the same time as someone else suggested didn’t help either. I just used a non-powered usb hub in between and it worked fine. This is the one i used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_SZvNBbARNQKVP

Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_19U7ybMQYCGBR

Bro. Here's my setup:

https://bourgedesign.com/products/arc-hub

then add:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOP70EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TlIw6xqtN8ByF

to this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_3cVe3OX2LpqR8

this is for when Im on the road. At home I use my monitor as a hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2XRYB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T.NLzb2V2XBJ5

usb-c is great. I can hotswap my xps and rbs with one cable

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port-Data/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480993831&sr=8-1&keywords=4+port+usb+3+hub

This ones always around $9.99, so unless you value the aluminum case...

This Hub works with the dashcam on my Model 3

You could get a USB hub to exoand your number of USB ports. This should let you use a USB wifi adapter.

Just thought I'd mention that it's possible (though clunky) to bypass the power limits using a USB hub like this inline with the dongle (in between the dongle and the keyboard). I do this with my iPad and my Mechmini (which annoyingly "draws too much power").

I had my little guy in a 5g when I got him and used these to keep it cool. (linking directly to usa amazon just so you know what I got but you'd probably be better off finding the same/similar on a more appropriate site for your location!)

USB Fans (x2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - these are SUPER quiet - could barely hear them when running!

USB Hub - I covered up the two remaining ports with tape so water didn't get in it, but you could also just get a hub with two ports instead of four! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XMD7KPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extension cable to plug in the hub to my power strip that had usb outlets. If your power strip doesn't have a usb port then you'll need to get a brick as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

In the North Carolina summer at 90-110 degrees F, this kept my tank at about 62-65 F

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-7-Port-Adapter-Charging-iPhone/dp/B014ZQ07NE/

wouldnt be bad.

Something like this could solve it.

[Upgraded] Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub, Ultra-Slim Data USB Hub with 2 ft Extended Cable for MacBook, Mac Pro, Mac mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, PC, Flash Drive, Mobile HDD [Charging Not Supported]

Anker 7-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub with 36W Power Adapter and BC 1.2 Charging Port for iPhone 7/6s Plus, iPad Air 2, Galaxy S Series, Note Series, Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and More

Decided to test these when I saw "1-4 players" on Sonic Spinball, and assumed it was played with 4 controllers, since I never tried multiplayer with that game back then. Turns out that Spinball's multiplayer is just sharing a controller.

All 4 Genesis Mini controllers (2 original + 2 RetroBit) connected to the hubs can navigate and activate menus/options/games in the game selection UI though.

I use an Anker - 7 port - powered USB 3.0 hub

I specifically meant a hub like this as that's what I use with my 10foot extension, but I like the cable in your link (nice and clean setup), that should work as well.

This works for me


https://www.amazon.com/Anker-7-Port-Adapter-Charging-iPhone/dp/B014ZQ07NE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538446949&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=anker+3.0+usb+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41Vu2VeROSL&ref=plSrch

herrr....

buy a usb labeled "usb 3.0" or "usb3" that requires a power adaptator to be pugged into the wall plug.

like say:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-7-Port-Adapter-Charging-iPhone/dp/B014ZQ07NE

it's the one i use personally, i got no problem with it whatsoever.

basically if the hub doesn't come with a power adapter , then that means it is self-powered , and that is NOT what you want.

hope this helps.

Anker 7-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub with 36W Power Adapter and BC 1.2 Charging Port for iPhone 7/6s Plus, iPad Air 2, Galaxy S Series, Note Series, Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZQ07NE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Fbe.AbG41N5SS

Huh, it was only $31. I thought I’d chosen one closer to $50. I hope I didn’t go too cheap.

I have been using Anker and Aukey chargers for the past few years. The few I own have all been good quality.

EDIT: I use these cables with this charger at my nightstand and this USB hub at my desk. I believe the nightstand charger does not activate fast charging due to the cables I use.

Had same issue setting up third sensor and even after I did after much fiddling I had lag and stuttering in vr. My rift is using a gaming laptop so ymmv, but my tracking setup and issue was 100% resolved by adding an anker 7 port powered usb hub and moving the headset and two sensors to the hub. Roomscale tracking is now nearly perfect. You could also add a powered PCIE usb card in a tower with good results. Search this sub and you will see it is nearly always a usb power issue with adding that third sensor.

One more thing, stand at a diagonal angle when in oculus sensor setup as all three sensors need to see the touch.

Here is the hub I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZQ07NE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the 2-port version of that card. I have three sensors plugged into a powered Anker USB 3.0 hub, which is plugged into one port of the card and my HMD plugged into the MOBO USB 3.0. This works well, and I've also had the HMD plugged into the hub with the sensors and that also worked fine.

I post my solution every time I see this. My current setup is an anker usb data hub. It has one port that somehow provides power while still allowing data transfers. It charges my phone, Pixel XL, about 1 amp which is enough to keep it charging while I have android auto running with maps and music. It has worked flawlessly for me as that was one big annoyance with using AA. I bought the following and it fits perfectly in the center console. The inverter is whisper quiet too. All you see is the cable coming out of the center console. I tried finding a cigarette adapter to power the hub and gave up after buying two that didnt work because the tip is different than what it needs. Before you go looking for one that has multiple tips make sure to look at the specs as this requires more amps than any I could find provided. For the record I don't get any thing for free from anker or represent them but I like their stuff and it worked for me.

Anker hub

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZQ07NE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Bapdas 150W Car Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Car Converter with 3.1A Dual USB Car Adapter-Black

ie=UTF8&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9C5C4L/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Anker Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD5YHMH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: Fixed anker hub link

You've already been linked the guide website a few times so I won't beat a dead horse, but one thing I'll say - when you decide you want an external hard drive don't fuck around with Y cables. Get a desktop external drive or something like this.

I use that hub, it's flawless, only takes up 1 usb port on the Wii U. You can connect a GC controller adapter to it (or any other usb controller) as well, or use it as a fast charger for your phone in the living room.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014ZQ07NE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/131-3798799-2894123?ie=UTF8&qid=1502121185&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=10+3.0+usb+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41UtKgxG04L&ref=plSrch

I use this, and have no power issues, I used to have some similar issues that you are having

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZQ07NE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whoops, forgot to include the link. My bad! I got this one and it works flawlessly: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B014ZQ07NE

Notably it includes a decent power supply to keep all the devices fed with power. Without that it's a crapfest of devices disconnecting and working unreliably.

This is a simplified explanation so please don't flame me.

Most USB controllers only provide 100ma of total power. You may have 12 USB ports but only 2 USB controllers. So if you have 12 ports with 6 ports on each controller you have 6 ports sharing 100ma of power across all 6 ports.

I don't remember the specific draw but the RS cable pulls pretty close to the full 100ma when active. (Does anyone know what the actual draw is?) If you have anything else plugged into the controller then you don't have enough power to push the cable, leading to the yellow shield error of doom.

This is where the powered USB hub comes into play.
I use this (not a referral just stating my equipment)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZQ07NE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to power my multitude of USB devices and have never had a problem. Good hunting.

I l use this Anker USB Hub with external USB drives:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192LPK5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hLO0Bb5V58RWG

I do not know whether they use Asmedia chips or not. It can be used in both powered or bus powered mode.

My guess would be it's the USB devices. I have had problems with USB Xbox adapters using too much juice and causing the lightning bolt. Try booting without it connected and see if you still get the lightning bolt. That will help to diagnose.

I bought one of these and it's supplied enough power for two external 4tb hard drives. If the issue is the 360 interface device, I bet this would fix your problem.

Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub with 12W Power Adapter for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192LPK5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I-DnzbJN1TDHH

This is what I have and it works great https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-Portable-Adapter-Notebook/dp/B0192LPK5M

You need extra power, so you require a powered hub

Plug dongle into hub, fails

Plug dongle into tablet, success.

Plug dongle into hub, fail.

Problem is likely the hub.

You should use a powered hub. Your tablet may be able to power it, but you'll drain your battery.

I use an Anker powered USB hub, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0192LPK5M/ with my Samsung Tab S2 and it works well. I've only used it with one device. YMMV

Not sure why everyone is so averse to dongles. This one for $59 provides Power Pass-through, 3 USB 3 ports, SD Card Reader and HDMI Output.
https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Charger-Charging-Output/dp/B019R9ILTG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509500789&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hootoo&psc=1

I've been considering one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019R9ILTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JdhzbWJ6QP0F

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J4BO0X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IKdhzbAXXAPWS

I have two of these (one on my desk, one in my bag) and they work well. doesn't have ethernet or Lightning though.

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Shuttle-Delivery-Charging-Output/dp/B019R9ILTG/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480360793&sr=1-3&keywords=hootoo%2Busb%2Bc&th=1

It was just a USB type-C hub. In theory, any type-C hub should work as long as it has a power input port (it can't be a passive hub or obviously you wouldn't be able to charge your phone). The hard part is finding one with an additional type-C port to plug your 3.5mm adapter into. Almost all type-C hubs on the market right now only have type-A ports for plugging additional peripherals into, such as this one.

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Charging-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B019R9ILTG

You can buy a type-A 3.5mm adapter to use with these hubs. The hub that I originally linked did have one additional type-C port, so I could plug my phone's 3.5mm adapter into it. It was also surprisingly cheap compared to other type-C hubs ($15). Most type-C hubs that I've found with additional type-C ports have been in the neighborhood of at least $40 if not closer to $50-$60.

Really like this idea! would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Charging-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B019R9ILTG
you would have to still use a 12v connector & usb-c to usb-c to power the hub...

I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Shuttle-Delivery-Charging-Output/dp/B019R9ILTG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481958604&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=hootoo+usb-c&psc=1

It looks like USB-C can put power in while you also have other things connected this looks like it would solve your problem

This is my setup (2016 13" non-TB rMBP, 1080p monitor, 1440p/4k monitor).

I just use a Hootoo USB-C adapter for the 1080p one (HDMI), then a USB-C to DisplayPort cable (for 60hz on 4k).

I even added an additional USB hub, so I have 6 usable USB slots.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019R9ILTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have been using this for a few months. It works great.

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Premium-Adapter-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B01K7C53K2?keywords=hootoo&qid=1539388294&s=Electronics&sr=1-6&ref=sr_1_6

The hootoo adapter has SD card, Three USB As, one C (so you can also charge), and HDMI. It's by far the best one for me.

USB C Hub, HooToo Shuttle 3.1 Type C Hub with Power Delivery for Charging, HDMI Output, Card Reader, 3 USB 3.0 Ports - Space Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7C53K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9p8oybZHRSM6V

Actually I think I answered my own question. A bit pricey, but something like this should be exactly what I need!

https://www.amazon.com.au/HooToo-Adapter-Charging-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B01K7C53K2?tag=joa-22&psc=1&ascsubtag=4165397%7cgoogle.com.ph%7c%7c%7c47%2c34%2c50%2c70%2c9%7c1%7c

Hmm odd. I just tried my Hootoo (this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K7C53K2/ ) and it works just as well as an HDMI out as the USB-C in on my display.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Adapter-Ethernet-ChromeBook/dp/B071G83L1J/ref=mp_s_a_1_23_sspa?keywords=anker+type+c+dock&qid=1563100634&s=gateway&sprefix=anker+type+c+d&sr=8-23-spons&psc=1

There's one

You are right: 4K @ 60 Hz + USB 3.0 is Thunderbolt 3 territory, there is just not enough bandwidth otherwise.

For USB C, either https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Adapter-Ethernet-ChromeBook/dp/B071G83L1J or https://smile.amazon.com/AOKEN-Delivery-Portable-MacBook-Nintendo/dp/B07LD2BHXL/ plus a simple USB 3.0 hub w/ Gigabit Ethernet will do just fine. Yeah, this advertises HDMI 2.0 w/ USB 3.0 but it can't do both at the same time, seller confirmed it falls back to USB 2.0 when 4k @ 60 Hz is connected.

As for Thunderbolt docks, that's not 40 bucks... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-TB16-USB-Type-C-Docking-Station-K16A-with-130W-Power-Supply/223581242934 I suspect this is the cheapest. https://github.com/rgov/Thunderbolt3Unblocker/issues/28#issuecomment-493284566 says

> I am on Mojave 10.14.4 and latest TB16 firmware.
With this kext loaded - USB A ports, audio, ethernet and one display is working (mini DP) on the TB16.
I am also using the TB16 as the power source.

So that Dell dock is Mac compatible.

That dongle isn't exactly "sleek."

Get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G83L1J/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_NHMEDbJMKCCGQ

Using eGPU for actual monitors... supports up to 4. However, the doc itself is quite generic "QacQoc" and just leave in my office for ethernet and USB ports. I'd recommend something like an Anker adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Adapter-Ethernet-ChromeBook/dp/B071G83L1J/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540570241&sr=1-3&keywords=usb-c+anker+hub&dpID=417cT2HB8zL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Would something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075MBS6JY/

And this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G83L1J/

Work?

I didn’t watch the video since it’s pretty long and I don’t have the time for it right now.


Edit: These are the cables Linus used https://www.corning.com/optical-cables-by-corning/worldwide/en/products/thunderbolt-optical-cables.html

Edit 2: Think looks like the Thunderbolt Hub used https://www.elgato.com/en/dock/thunderbolt-3

Edit 3: This looks like the Thunderbolt Add in Card Linus Used(not sure though) https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboard-Accessories/ThunderboltEX-3/

I've been using this one for awhile and it's been great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G83L1J

Usb c adapter with Ethernet does work on my 4XL, didn't test wiring controller though, ymmv.

I have this one.

Anker USB C Hub Adapter, 5-in-1 USB C Adapter with 4K USB C to HDMI, Ethernet Port, 3 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 2019/2018/2017, iPad Pro 2019/2018, ChromeBook, XPS, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G83L1J/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_lT81Db9SDZZ0G

I use pass through power with this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H6996RW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_8B8KDb89GB811 all the time. I use either a 30W, 65W (I think, spares for MacBook Pro’s etc. From work or clients) or even just an Anker USB hub with a single USB-C port on it (no idea what the wattage is on that, but again, it works fine).

I prefer my other dongle (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071G83L1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_OA8KDb3ZAXY71) But it doesn’t have pass through power.

What pass through you’ll require will depend on the drives you’re using. I generally use SSD’s or good old (that’s a joke) USB sticks, but neither require much power. I believe that USB3.0 maxes out at about 4.5W, so whatever is left can charge the iPad.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G83L1J/

It's pretty much an all in one for us.

> I run a clothing brand and was looking to film a promotional video with a VHS (or VHR) camera and would need to transfer the footage from the camera to my laptop. .

Do you really want a 1990s VHS tape? Can I understand why?

The hoops you're going to have to jump to get it into your system are ugly - mostly because few groups make stuff for this anymore; and development is dead.

On the USBC front. There are a dozen versions of this. While that is $60- I've bought three or four for about half that.

I've got this one at it's all I need for a lot less.

​

https://www.amazon.com/VAVA-Adapter-Delivery-Ethernet-MacBook/dp/B079GSMZ7G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536680086&sr=8-3&keywords=vava+usb+c+hub

Any USB-C dock will work. Check out this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GSMZ7G?

You can get cheaper ones if u don't need all those ports.

Not sure if this is what you mean but:

Headphone Splitter Example

USB Hub Example

Thank you kind sir or mam. Would something like this work? Anker [Upgraded Version] 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub, Ultra-Slim Data Hub with 2 ft Extended Cable for MacBook, Mac Pro, Mac Mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, PC, Flash Drive, Mobile HDD [Charging Not Supported] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cQjqDbPT3R11K

Not sure which one you were looking at, but most likely it would not support two screens. What you could do is get a USB-C hub, plug it into one port. Like this. That will give you HDMI, some normal USB ports, and a USB-C power input.

Then you could just get a normal USB-C to HDMI adapter like this.

$43 all in, and more versatile.

I have a similar dongle by Anker, and it works for what you describe. I tried with a DualShock 4 and works fine, just make sure to connect the dongle to power before connecting it to the phone. Also, make sure to power the dongle with a USB-PD charger. When I connected a USB-A charger to the dongle via a A-to-C cable, the phone didn't get almost any current, it said "slowly charging" but with my USB-PD meter inline it said about 0.08A was going in, which is practically nothing. The phone wasn't losing battery powering the dongle and DualShock, but it was losing battery just as if there was nothing connected.

This is a lot better dongle, btw, and cheaper with the current $5 coupon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMLTCPL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has an extra USB-C port (works with USB-C headphones), and 100W charging capability, among other extra features.

Any USB-A port, or USB-A to USB-C cable will only charge up to 1.5A. Most USB-A computer ports though only support USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 power (500mA or 900mA). For a computer USB-A port to support 1.5A, they usually have a label indicating they are also "charging" ports, or you would just have to test yourself. If you're interested in testing your charging in different scenarios, I recommend buying one of those hardware USB-PD meters. I have the Satechi one but you may find others with more features or cheaper. Apps like Ampere are not accurate, they can only approximate, and especially with USB-PD they are worse because of the different voltages.

I was also looking for something similar, but settled for 4k30Hz/1080p60Hz because using it as a portable device means that the most likely screens I will be plugging it into will be 1080p television screens (and let's be honest, the SB2 isn't going to run most things well at 4k/60fps anyways; games run better decreased to 1440/1200/1080 and 4k business presentations or digital proofing will work just fine at 30Hz).

This is what I went with (1Gb Ethernet, 100w power, HDMI, 3xUSB A, USB C, SD slot, micro SD slot):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079GSMZ7G

Heya!

I'm not really a beginner when it comes to computers but I've just stumbled upon something that I cannot explain and I'd love it if someone could provide some info.

The TL;DR is that I have an SD card reader (a cheap kingston one) with USB 3.0 that has pretty poor transfer rate in the read direction. But today I installed a new USB 3.0 hub (a cheap anker one), I've plugged the hub in the same USB 3.0 port on my computer and I plugged the SD card reader on the hub, and now transfer rate are soaring, almost 3 times what I used to have.

I've done a couple of tests, transferring a bunch of files to and from the same SD card and same SSD, with the only variable changing is the presence of the hub between the SD card and the usb port. The results are clear. With no usb hub, I have a 75MB/s write rate and a 25-30MB/s read rate. With the usb hub I still have 75MB/s write speed and I now have a 75MB/s read speed.

I'm puzzled by this. I expected to get lower speed when using a hub, not higher speed. Anyone knows what could be the cause?

I thought I linked it! My bad.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMLTCPL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XrUjDbAW3MK3A

So it turns out it does work, however I have to lose the one cable dream.

Question. I just want one monitor setup. But I also want the one cable dream. I’m looking just to get a cheap 4K screen using a regular HDMI since those are the cheapest.

My question is would I be able to use a usb c cable to a usb c hub (hiding the hub) and simulate the once cable dream?

Examples is using this to a cable like this and having the usb c supply charging and all connections

I use the Anker dongle with my Pro. Works great.

Anker USB C Hub, 7-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, 100W Power Delivery, USB C Data Port, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 2017/2018, Chromebook, Xps, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMLTCPL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2gnjDbZ7Q0FJN

> Why not get a pi zero (cheap) in the meantime,

That's not a bad suggestion either. Pi Zero works well with most SNES, Genesis, and Arcade games, and it's relatively cheap. However, plan on spending some more money a Mini HDMI adapter and Micro USB adapter, plus a USB Hub if you want more than one player (the Pi0 is picky about which USB hub it uses, most people recommend the Amazon Basics USB hub). By the time you're done you're spending $15-20, which is not nearly as economical as it seems compared to a Pi3B+.

1. SDCard reader/writer - In order to write OS images onto the SDcard you'll need a writer on a PC to copy any software onto the SDcard before moving it to the Pi to boot.
   
2. USB Power supply - The Pi Zero has low demands on power (random USB chargers may work) but it's a good idea to get a good power supply.
   
3. USB OTG adapter - The Pi0 only has one micro-USB port (the other one is power in only). If you want to plug a normal USB device in you'll need an adapter.
   
4. USB Hub - Since the Pi0 only has one USB port you'll need a USB 2.0 hub to plug in multiple USB devices, such as a keyboard, mouse and USB network dongle. If you plan on plugging in USB devices that need more power (like external USB harddrives) then you should get a powered USB hub.
   
5. USB Network Adapter - Speaking of which, if you want Internet on the Pi0 you'll need a USB Wifi adapter or a 100M Ethernet USB adapter.
   
   
   Or alternatively, you could use the Pi Zero's OTG Ethernet Gadget capabilities to connect your Pi0 directly to a PC/Mac using only a single USB cable: https://gist.github.com/gbaman/975e2db164b3ca2b51ae11e45e8fd40a
   

The Amazon product description says

> USB POWER ADAPTER has been updated to 2 AMP (2000 mA) -- Enough to power a USB keyboard, the included wifi adapter, and wireless mouse.

So I think you'll be OK. It depends on what type of setup you want though. Once you get everything programmed/installed, do you want to run the Pi "headless" (with no monitor or keyboard/mouse)? If so, you should be OK just using one USB port for the WiFi dongle and one for the mic. If you want to leave a keyboard/mouse hooked up all the time then you'd need a USB hub anyway since you'd be using 3 ports total (or 4, if you have a separate keyboard/mouse). You might be able to get away with a cheaper unpowered hub in that case but I'm not sure.

*edit - I think you'll be fine either way with speakers, independent of the USB setup. Small speakers that just plug directly into the 3.5mm jack won't draw much power (but they aren't as loud); nicer speakers that have their own external power supply won't be an issue.

Dear Younger Me,

Get the Mediport. I don't care what the Doctor or Mom and Dad say, get the port. It'll greatly improve your life and save you years of pain and miserable injury. Then, when you get to be my age, your "prime" won't just be an expression of your age, it'll be real. You can be the badass superhero martial artist you've always wanted to be. Just get the Mediport.

Also remember, never AND I MEAN NEVER stick your dick in crazy. It's not going to be different because you're such a good guy and the cosmos owes it to you. It's going to suck and be a huge bummer on your summer.

Here's an item, cool huh?

This is the one I have:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK

It is USB 2.0.

I think he's talking about one of these: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK right OP?

I have one and I'll plug both external HDD tonight to see if it works. I know a hub + external HDD + mouse + 360 Controller + flirc dongle works...

I don't think you even need a thunderbolt dock. Get two long DisplayPort cables (or 1 if your monitors can be daisy chained) and then a USB extension with a USB hub on the end. Plug your mouse and keyboard into the hub and plug any audio devices into your monitor. (I assume that they have audio, considering they are high end monitors)

Edit: Because I have nothing else to do, I looked into a single cable thunderbolt solution.
The idea came from this video, and it will be extremely expensive. Like is there really a good reason to not just move the PC by your monitors?
First, to use Thunderbolt, you need to actually have Thunderbolt on your computer. Luckily for you, ASUS has a PCI card to do just that. Your motherboard is not listed as supported, but your motherboard does have the Thunderbolt header that is needed by the card, and is a newer mobo from the same manufacturer, so there is a possibility it might work. Assuming it does, you would just connect the DisplayPort from your GTX 1080 to the Thunderbolt card.

The next thing you need is a long Thunderbolt cable. I don't know how far away the computer is going to be from the TB dock, but here is a 33' long Thunderbolt cable. If you need longer, you can get 100' for $600.

Next, you'll need the Thunderbolt dock. There are many out there. I have no experience with any of them Belkin and Elgato both make them.
An unfortunate thing about the Thunderbolt docks is that they only support dual display when one of the displays is a Thunderbolt display. Otherwise, you can only use one over HDMI or one over MiniDP to DP, but not both. So that would mean repeating the whole setup with 2 docks, or just going with the suggestion I made above.

50ft HDMI

50ft USB Cable

USB Hub

Have fun.

I've had no problems using this usb hub (no power supply):

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405826098&sr=1-2&keywords=amazon+usb+hub

Solar Charger 30,000mAh, LMS Portable Dual USB Solar Battery Charger Battery Pack Phone Charger Power Bank with Flashlight for Smartphones Cell Phones Iphones Android Samsung Galaxy Tablet Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JR85LJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2KI0AbS6T4DDJ

This one has a massive battery and if youre instinct (dont worry, I wont judge) it comes in yellow.

If you use more then one device or play with other people a USB hub is also a good idea to charge more then one device. AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KMI0AbQ88P4MD

We've had this issue for a few years on all of our models where we use a USB to Ethernet adapter for imaging (Yoga, Yoga 12, Yoga 260, Yoga 370 and Dell 7390 2-in-1). We've been connecting the USB to Ethernet adapter to a cheap USB 2.0 hub and plugging that into the laptop USB port as a workaround and this always works for us. Slows things down a bit, but at least it works. Here is the USB hub that we use: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522295670&sr=8-3&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+2.0+hub&dpID=418ZqgcqNCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpsrc=srch.

​

I also recently ran across this, but haven't verified if it is also a workaround in our environment: https://www.dell.com/support/article/gy/en/gybsdt1/sln308790/sccm-task-sequence-workaround-for-domain-join-failures-on-certain-skylake-kaby-lake-systems?lang=en

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK

Buy a 4 port KVM like this one, attach a 4 port USB hub to the input, and then attach your 3 USB devices to the hub. You might need to buy a powered hub instead.

Yes that's right. Make sure your using the 2.5amp power supply that comes with it, or higher drawing that much power it could cause slowdown issues.
There is this for example on amazon https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492717886&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+hub
that won't draw much, but depending on what your doing you might want to invest in a USB hub that has it's own power supply. Always a better choice

That looks pretty decent, could probably pull a smaller USB hub (AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QBGpybQPBST99) and pick him up an additional item.

If not, those three still look pretty good and would be applicable to a wide range of projects.

I'm confused as to what you mean. I've never seen a usb split to just two female ends. Either I don't see why it wouldn't work, but if you're short on USB slots (laptops, generally have this issue), maybe go for a usb hub?

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1453475612&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub

I'd say your best bet would the Lenovo U430 for school.

It has an i7-4500U w/ Intel HD 4400 Graphics, 4GB RAM, 500GB Hybrid SSD, and a 1600x900 14" touch display.

It weighs only 4.2lbs and can get up to 7.5 hours of battery life.

The only issue with it for you would be the lower amount of RAM (but you can always upgrade that later), and it has 3 USB ports rather than 4. You can always get a hub for that, though.

I suggest this one primarily due to the low weight and good battery life for being able to use during classes.

Correction, it has 3 USB ports. (And a hub, such as this one work great.)

Also, in my case, with the router being on the other side of the house, I used a couple of these to get it hooked up through the CAT5 (or Ethernet) port.

I've had no problems since.

I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Great post OP, thank you very much. I started progress on my magic mirror following these instructions and wanted to post my experience so far.

Already had:

• Rasberry Pi A+
  
• Old monitor, stripped from casing to reduce size.
  
• VGA to HDMI converter cable to allow using my monitor with pi.
  
• Micro Usb cable for power & ac adapter.
  
• USB Wifi stick ( Mine worked perfectly with raspbian jessie without any additional work) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704140&cm_re=wifi_usb-_-33-704-140-_-Product
  
  Things I needed to purchase:
  
  
• 16 gb Micro SD card (It was practically the same price as 8gb) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57SEE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
  
• USB Hub. I accidentally purchased this one thinking it was powered. Luckily I was able to power the keyboard, mouse, and wifi without an issue. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
  
  
• USB card reader (since my computer doesn't have one) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D79VH4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
  
  
  Issues Encountered:
  
  
• WiFi wouldn't work: Turned out I plugged it in while pi was already running. Spent a lot of time trying to debug before realizing that I just needed to restart. My wifi dongle (linked above) was able to work immediately without any additional work.
  
  
• Calendar not loading: In calendar.php I left the "$_GET" portion when putting my google url in. Line should just be:
  
  $url = 'YOUR_URL'
  
  
• Screen won't rotate: I changed to all lowercase display_rotate=1 and cleaned up some white space and screen rotate worked properly. Not sure what the problem was exactly but working now.
  
  I will probably be removing the news and compliments because I am using a smaller screen and want to leave more open space.
  
  I also am looking for a solution to showing events from multiple calendars. I keep my google calendars separated by type, like bills, appointments, etc. These are kept on separate calendars so I can filter which is viewed. But I'd like to consolidate this data on the mirror, or rotate between calendars. May modify the source myself if nothing already exists.
  
  But to get everything running on the pi took about 2hrs including resolving my issues. Building the frame will probably take longer as my wood working skills are pretty sub par.
  

I honestly would invest in one that does the chat via USB but also has the red/white audio hookups for the game volume as well because talking on the mic with your tv blaring sucks donkey dick.

I kind of hate turtle beach because the headset I bought from them for my PC broke and was replaced 3 times in 10 months... fucking plastic headband shit but the headset I found for PS3 by them is alright and one of the cheapest that will play game volume that I found.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008M4BNQG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am sure they have similar ones for 360 as well.

Also I would suggest investing in a cheap USB hub

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That way you can have the headset plugged in, a controller charging, and a wireless keyboard or something hooked up for typing messages if ya need to :p

You know if you hit the share button, you can copy the short link?


https://amzn.com/B001D1UTC4
https://amzn.com/B00006HSM2
https://amzn.com/B003M0NURK

(ok, I'll shut up now)

How about a wireless USB hub?

Is this what you're looking for?

Usb to usb wireless dongles: https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-USB-WIRELESS-Dongle-Black/dp/B001GV00ZM

or

Wireless 4-Port USB Sharing Station: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Sharing-Station-GUWIP204/dp/B0058DN1Q4

or

Linux USB Server on a 5 dollar raspberry pi zero

---
The problem is that 20+ seconds isn't an unreasonable amount of time to wait transferring the amount of data you want to transfer. You're not going to get instantaneous results even from a camera that has FTP built.

When you take a picture with a memory card it writes to the memory card. When you tether it sends that data to the computer to be written to the hard drive.

When you want to use wireless it has to write it to the memory card then transfer that data from you card to something that can translate it into something that can be transmitted then that is shot over the air where a receiver that has to capture the data and undue what the transmit side did so it can become usable data again then written to the hard drive of the computer which then is picked up by lightroom.

I hope that makes sense...it goes more in depth then that but I'm just trying to do an ELI5 explanation..

> I'm thinking of some sort of transmitting device like a transceiver one would use with wireless strobes

The issue here is the amount of information that needs to be sent over. Your strobes fire near instant because the amount of information needed to trigger them is very minimal. In computer terms maybe a 2 or 3 bits. To illustrate that in numbers an average raw file is 25 megabytes which is about 25,000kilobytes which is about 25,000,000 bytes which is about 200,000,000 bits.

I'm a hobby photography but a professional computer nerd...also worked as a radioman in the navy! Lemme know if you have any other questions related to this. It's nice to be able to use my powers for good for once.

I don't think the Bluetooth specification is versatile enough to allow that.

If you want wireless access to USB devices, one option would be to use a WIFI remote USB hub.

One example:
http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Sharing-Station-GUWIP204/dp/B0058DN1Q4/ref=pd_cp_pc_1

I'm not sure if this is a possible solution because it doesn't say whether it works with peripherals like mice and keyboards. Here's a wireless Wi-Fi connected USB hub.

I haven't tried using this with SDR#, but it is completely wireless, adds back its own 5V and can do multiple devices.

I admit, there's a lot that could go wrong with this, but maybe you could find one on Ebay for cheap and play with it. It did work well for some camera & serial port stuff (telescope) I was playing with.

Use cheap slip rings & capacitor/batteries for power, then instead of wired USB use wireless usb
Make sure to get a usb server which supports cameras

I love my anker 10 port USB hub. Good build quality and not too expensive.

Edit: include link

I would just buy a USB 3.0 hub and a longer USB 3.0 cable. I bought a 6 foot cable personally.

cable

hub

Anker 9 port USB 3.0 hub. This one is on the higher-end at $60.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ this ?

It could also be what /u/Mikazah said as well, that hub does have an awfully high number of 1-star reviews.

There's a lightning deal on Amazon right now for a 10 port Anker hub for $40 that ends in 1.5 hours.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NGQWL2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481825323&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41WCp%2Bk%2BzJL&ref=plSrch

"... while the other 9 ports charge at speeds of up to 0.9 amps each, with 10 amps overall among 10 ports."

I think it would work. I've never used this item personally, but I am a big fan of Anker batteries.

A good option http://amzn.com/B005NGQWL2

I wonder if we could leverage a USB port to add gigabit Ethernet?

StarTech.com USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter - 10/100/1000 Network Adapter - USB 3.0 LAN Dongle - USB to RJ45 (USB31000S) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095EFXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bBtyDb6J2BXW7

Easiest would be something like a USB to RJ45 ethernet port

I use this startech:

https://www.amazon.com/USB-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1UPEP79VN0L5K&keywords=startech+usb+3.0+to+gigabit+ethernet+nic+network+adapter&qid=1550956795&s=gateway&sprefix=startech+usb+3.0+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I have done this and do not recommend it.

My setup was using Lenovo's NUC-like M93p and 2 Startech USB3 NICs.
It worked, and I used it for 6 or so months before switching to the 'router on a stick' setup mentioned /y/Hrast.

The issues I encountered included very CRC errors on the USB interfaces that, while everything still worked, was affecting steam in-home streaming, resulting in ~ 5-10% frame loss.

Switched to routing all WAN and inter-vlan traffic over the single onboard Intel NIC via VLANs and everything works much better. and because the gigabit standard requires full-duplex for gigabit interfaces, I can still route at full 1000mbps line speeds between vlans.

I've been using https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0095EFXMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the online experience has been pretty flawless on it. I wish the wireless connection was stronger without it, I can be right next to the router and only get 2 bars.

I'm struggling with figuring out how to share a Bluetooth mouse between my two Macs, however I use this switch to share my mechanical keyboard. I just manage the wires, but I love it.

IOGEAR 2 Computer 4-Port USB 2.0 Peripheral Sharing Switch, GUS402 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Kbv3Cb94RGW5M

I had the same problem and this is a solution. You are able to use the same mouse and keyboard for both - you will have to switch inputs on monitor(s) though. For me it works perfect and doesn’t break the bank.

I’ve been using this switch for 2 years now.

Couldn't stop thinking about this all day. My macbook has been neglected since I built my PC.

I just put this on order. Plan on mounting the little switch on my monitor just behind the input switcher with a bit of velcro.

God bless velcro.

sounds like a USB switch may be what you are looking for. Though, I've had some past clients that were very anal about what USB devices can be plugged into systems.

edit: copy/paste/fail

Yeah it takes a lot of planning and cables lol but it works flawlessly. Here's a link to the USB switcher that I use

I think I found the switch in the imgur comments. Looks like this one:

I do the thing with using the input switcher on the monitors and hate it. Sometimes you have to use a different type of port or whatever and it’s aggravating to go through multiple menus if your monitors don’t have some type of fast switch capability.

These are cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-High-Performance-Switcher-Switch/dp/B0015YWKYY?th=1&psc=1 and maybe the remote will switch both at once if you put them on top of each other or close or whatever. Right now they’re $5.99 with the coupon.

I also use a KMS like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YOw-Ab8PARTR9 to be able to use the same keyboard and mouse.

This is what i use

Hey op, I do this with my work laptop and personal desktop. Basically my setup consists of a USB switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BD8I2OY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1482790698&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+kvm+switch+2+port&dpPl=1&dpID=31F-KcWzc7L&ref=plSrch) for my keyboard and mouse with are both wireless. For my monitors I have multiple ports on them and switch the input on them. I didn't go the switch route on them because I have 3 monitors with just the middle one being shared. The other two are dedicated to each machine and I just switch the middle input when needed. Did it this way so I can still play/see the other machine and switch the middle wen needed.

There is a USB/monitor switch that I debated on for around the same price as the one I linked but I think it's only two monitors.

I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to do, but if you're wanting to hardware switch USB devices, this is what I've used in the past.

Good old Amazon Basic's 4 port powered USB w/ an Apple USB-C to USB adapter.

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484871884&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+basic+4+port+usb+hub

One I had from before using a Surface Pro Hackintosh, works great for the Oculus with 3 sensors. All the USB goes into that Rift, and 3 sensors. Long as I keep the 3rd sensor on USB2.0 using the monoprice cable I get no tracking issues related to sensor hookups.

Yeah I love the setup, I had a 2015 Macbook Pro which ran great for work / OSX needs. It made sense to dump the gaming laptop Razer and consolidate the Macbook and Razer into the new one. eGPU made that possible, TB3 rocks speed wise the hit isn't terrible long as you use an external monitor. Works great here.

Good thing because the one the other poster suggested wouldn't have worked for a Surface Pro device - that one is specific to the Surface 3 (non-Pro).

As far as USB hubs go, the problem with wanting to run an external drive via a USB hub is that the hub itself typically has to be powered, reducing its portability. It might be easier for you to use a Bluetooth-enabled mouse like Logitech MX Anywhere or Surface Arc Mouse or Razer Artheris - basically any wireless mouse that doesn't depend on a dongle to work.

If portability doesn't matter to you, then maybe AmazonBasics 4 Port Hub would work. It's cheap, powered and has tons of positive reviews.

With a direct connection via on-the-go cable (USB Audio Player Pro) says a device is attached but that the phone can't drive enough power through the port. According to the JDS Labs (blog) the solution is to use a powered hub. I've tried two different powered hubs including a brand new (Amazon Basics) with a 2.5 Amp power supply, which should be more than enough, but still get no audio from the amp.

I've also tried using (SoundAbout) to force Google Play Music to route through the USB DAC. Doesn't work in host or client mode. Anyone have this working and if so what hardware did you use to bridge from the Nexus 6 to your amp?

I have the Amazon Basics powered USB 3 hub, works great, not expensive

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466277884&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+3+hub

Best Buy, Fry's, Microcenter, Walmart would all sell powered USB hubs. I use a few of these around my house. Cheap, effective, safe.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464915641&sr=8-1&keywords=amazonbasics+usb+hub

Cant you just add a USB hub to the back? Something like this. That is likely the cheapest option.

I just use an amazon basics one which works fine https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/

Describe a bit more about the unit you want. Is it supposed to be a PC of its own? In that case one would get an ITX case that fits three 5.25" drives, like https://www.amazon.com/iStarUSA-S-35-Compact-5-25-Inch-mini-ITX/dp/B00DJ7T3YK. If you want something that connects to other PCs I'd glue three external drives together and just use USB. And yes, connecting those to an USB hub is a good idea (maybe an USB 3.1 Gen 2 hub to avoid any bandwidth issues).

If you have to use the internal drives without a PC of their own I'd get three of https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ + a powered USB 3.0 hub like https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/.

But I haven't build something like that yet. When I still used optical disk writers there was always the issue of having to keep the system calm to not produce write errors. I'm not 100% certain having three connected to a hub won't be without issues - but it's not too expensive to try out.

you may or may not need a powered usb hub depending on the type and number of things you want to use

USB devices like a headset or a controller use power from the device they are connected to. As for a USB hub there are two types: Those getting power from PS4/PC and those having a small separate power supply.

The important part is that power is limited on a USB hub without power supply to what you get from one USB port of the PS4. It might not be enough for headset plus controller and thus one of them might not work.

With power supply multiple (or even all) connected devices can use the maximum power allowed for USB.

An example for a USB3 hub with power supply/AC adapter is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

If I were looking for one that's what I would get for my PS4.

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zgE4CbC4ERKGD


Plug your hub into port 1 on PS4. Plug ext. hard drive into port 2 on PS4. Anything else goes into the hub (charging cables, headset usb, etc..)

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

Is this good to buy? And can I still use the usb cables the PS Classic gave us to connect it to the hub?

Also, you'll need either a USB 3.0 Y cable https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-USB-3-0-A-Male-to-Micro-B-Male-Male-Power-Supply-Y-Cable-for-Hard-Drive-HDD/232730072231 or a powered USB 3.0 hub https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80 for devices like portable external hard drives.

1. You should download the Windows Assessment and Deployment 8.1 (ADK 8.1)
   
   
2. Read the Windows ADK Quickstart
   
   
3. Create a WinPE boot disk with "Image capturing and services" feature installed (specificially for the DISM utility)
   
   
4. Get a USB 3.0 powered hub because the Surface 3 has a low-powered USB port
   
   
5. Use DISM to capture your existing SSD and you can apply it to any other disk you want

Looks like it doesn't actually come with the adapter, which is not uncommon. This one would be better as it does come with the wall-wart supply.

While true in theory, for my own use it doesn't apply because I don't need it for anything other than this specific usage. On top of that, I like things to be neat, and hiding the USB hub wouldn't work too well in my setup, much less having the extra power plug/wire to deal with.

It's just a small annoyance and I'll probably end up getting it anyway, but I've definitely been finding it to be one of the few gripes I have with the PS4 (#1 being no support for the official Bluetooth headset from PS3, despite the wireless chip in the PS4 having the ability to function exactly the same as its predecessor).

I use this for mics and works great

USB HUB

While I don't have specific experience with that writer, generally if an external device has 2 usb ports (like usb cd drives or usb external hard drives) 1 is for data and 1 is for power. You should be fine using something like a powered usb hub.

yikes. Thanks

What do you think about this hub ? https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1YV07NODL0INA&keywords=usb+3+0+powered+hub&qid=1575136545&sprefix=usb+3.0+power%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-3

​

edit : I realized this one is 2.5A.

3A is necessary ?

​

edit 2 :

https://www.amazon.ca/Powered-Splitter-Extension-Charging-Independent/dp/B07X91YGG1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+3+0+powered+hub+3a&qid=1575136750&sr=8-3

Probably closer to 10 to 15 bucks for a powered usb hub. A non powered hub powers itself and all attached devices using the power from the USB port on the PC. A powered hub has a dedicated power input and provides its own power for itself and all attached devices.

An Xbox 360 wired controller looks to be listed as around .48A, and a standard USB2 port is usually rated for .5A total draw. USB 3 I believe is .9A, so an non powered hub may not get you four working controllers.

Something like this should be a safe choice for you:
AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BK1nybA3V46AS

3x 4-way USB hubs, powered.

Edit: Actually, there is a 10 port model. I would just use that, and the 5 or 6 others on my case/motherboard would suffice.

Hello. Look at this previous post on USB controllers compatibility.
I also did some additional testing this morning for you. The amazon basic usb hub won't work with any of my controllers.
However, another Nexxtech usb hub I had did work.

I'll be happy to answer any further questions you have!

It is lighting up it's just covered by the case it's in.

The splitter

I wrote it to the microSD using Win32 Disk Imager.

I have a rpi zero and a non-powered USB hub.

Anything I plug into the mini USB port on the pi works, EXCEPT for the USB hub (popular amazon brand). The USB hub works everywhere else. The USB hub isn't a simple cable splitter, it's this one (AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf), if that makes a difference).

I have no idea what to do to fix it, as this makes it impossible to use my pi as an emulation station: I need two ports for it, and I can't download any drivers because even if it did have Internet I wouldn't have a free keyboard and mouse port to download them.

Does this make sense? Any guidance?

I'm running low on USB jacks. Can I get one of those USB jack multiplier things and plug all the controllers into it?

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407517282&sr=8-1&keywords=multi-usb+port

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465833952&sr=1-1&keywords=kvm&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060496011
+
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-26957-Female-Adapter/dp/B00006HSM2/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465834108&sr=1-7&keywords=dvi+to+vga
+
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465834146&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hum
=KVM switch with 5 switched USB ports by pressing 1 button that works with DVI monitor output.

The best arduino solution I can come up with will require you to wire up like 30 fets, and will probably not be more elegant than a commercial solution.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+splitter+amazon+basic

This is my cheapeast item on my list!

I'm Ron Burgundy?

You won't need a powered hub. I created the same setup and was able to run 2 [Logitech F310] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VAHYQY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) using an [unpowered hub] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=psdc_3015402011_t3_B019BUA81U)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2N6KM8OT5U978&coliid=I30V9V9PBBZQGU&psc=1

If you study sunday, you'll find that outside of religious purposes, it's a pretty normal day. Enjoy it.

I need this because I'm running out of USB space on my laptop. Can't fit my printer any more.

USB hubs are sometime an option. This one's cheap and tiny enough to hide.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=064BSGCQJW1WXMHH9857

is this good? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=zg_bs_17387627011_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0SDQD441HD0CPFASN2EJ will that work?

whats diff between 2.0 and 3.0?

Those all would just use a standard 1/8" audio cable. If you use the micca speakers with an amp you would need a 1/8" to RCA cable (but those are cheap) and some speaker wire.

It may be worth getting a usb hub if you have issues with not having enough ports. (A cheap one like this wouldn't work for charging devices but would open up more ports for mouse, keyboard, etc.)

With iPhone you need a lightning to USB adapter and something similar to this. Then just plug it in and you’re good to go!

AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7Olnzb86EQ7VC

Are they powered separately? (with their own power adapters?)

I'd go with the powered USB 3.0 hub Link

If they are portable drives, you'll need more power, something like this: Link or this Link

Hope that helps :)

Hope this helps: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
There are also bigger ones too.

I got a sneaky feeling that the only female USB connector on that eBay unit that has the data +/- lines is that micro USB. It's the only side with a silkscreened label, and that thing is only $2.77US.

Can you look in there and verify that the female USB A connections have the center 2 lanes for data wires? Otherwise pry open the case and trace the circuit board routing.

Edit: I used this non powered hub from Amazon on my Pi zero and it worked great, only $6.50:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK

There is always the "docks" like Alesis, Behringer, Focusrite and others all have docks with midi IO, audio IO's and ability to charge at the same time. Honestly though, you could just get aUSB splitter and as long as your regular interfaces are class compliant you could use those and then charge it with another USB slot at the same time.

I'll give you some advice, if you really need more than two usb's, you can get one of these a lot cheaper than it would be for trying to buy a computer with a bunch of usb ports already attached.


[To answer your question more thoroughly, I personally love Toshiba's Satellite Brand,] (http://www.toshiba.com/us/computers/laptops/satellite) there high performance laptops are highquality and top of the line. I bought a C55-A5286 from them last year, and it came with a 750 gb hard drive and 16gb ram. Its more than effective at anything you'd need to use for debate. I even use this laptop to play counter strike with no problems at all.

I will disclose two things about the satellite that you may want to consider before buying 1. I had a keyboard failure within the 1st year but it was replaced with the Toshiba Warranty but I had to pay for Fedex shipping. I sent the laptop to them on a monday and I got it back on a friday. 2. The screen on my laptop was especially fragile. I broke the screen after inadvertently having my knee make contact with it while I was sitting down at a debate tournament. The laptop is currently hooked up to a PC Monitor and works just fine. I use a Dell Inspiron for my debate work, it has 4gb ram and 500 gb hard drive and it still does all the work relatively quickly.


If your laptop is slowing down I'd consider looking at what you might have cluttered on there before you lay down a big wad of money on a new laptop.

Glue this to the side of the case: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK

This is the one that the reviews have said work with the pi zero: AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i6ztybX6G3N7E

The one I'm using came from a local store in Canada so I don't think you'll be able to get one.

I'm using this, but if you plug in more than two accessories, make sure your power supply can handle it. Like 2.5 volts.

**edit- I didn't see "space constrained" so this may be of no help.

AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eIvvyb5KTCRRC

I got a non-powered one from Amazon. It's their Amazon Basics, it's decent enough. http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-4-Port-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1343047919&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+hub

Have a mouse, keyboard and an external (self powered) hard drive in it. Seems to work just fine.

4-port for $6, free 2-day shipping

A USB hub with a power cord that you plug into the wall. Some have them, some don't. The ones that don't are fine for mice and keyboards. But a portable hard drive gets all its power from the computer and an unpowered hub sometimes gives it problems, it will sometimes eject randomly, even while copying files, or not work at all.

This one is bus-powered.

This one has an AC adapter.

This USB hub? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK

This is such an amazing idea! I've just ordered the parts from Amazon to do this and it only cost £17.47 in total.

5.25" Storage Box

USB Header to USB Female Adapter

USB 4 Port Hub Bus-powered

The Asus Transformer Book T100TA is only 2.5 pounds and can run games like HL2 fine (that video was recorded with FRAPS, so your actual performance will be better). It has a detachable keyboard so that you can use the screen as a standalone tablet, and the battery lasts around 10 hours for normal use. Finally, it has MS Office preinstalled an 64GB SSD storage, which should read/write files and open programs quickly.

It doesn't have an optical drive, but as /u/SaneBRZ mentioned, you can buy one cheaply on Amazon. We also recommend a USB Hub so that you can use multiple devices at once if you want.

Please let us know if there are any questions we can answer for you.

I use the Define R4. I bought my hub to connect to a usb extension cable so I could run a mouse and controller across the floor and game from my couch. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And, fwiw, it took me ages to figure out too. When I finally did, it was one of those head bashing "why wasn't that the first thing I checked!" moments.

fat32 i intentionally purchased a usb the reads/writes fast. well faster than i was finding at target.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7PDLXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and i use this usb splitter. cheap and works well
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So im not sure what the usb problem could be other than some driver issies that will be resolved down the road. However i can assure you that i have used the follwing usb hub w/o providing the external power succesfully. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M0NURK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1488001704&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+hub

I had this issue with a Corsair K70, as well, had to get a powered USB hub. Fixed the issue immediately!

A usb hub?

Something like this?

Bluetooth seems to be more common though. I'm guessing there wasn't a huge need for it, since by the time you could fit all the necessary hardware into a package that small (wireless usb dongles for early laptops required the laptop to do the software part), you could just include wireless capability with everything that may need it (any laptop or even smaller like a Chromecast for example).

This was the closest thing I could find sans soldering it together yourself.

There are wireless USB devices but they rarely get good reviews and I would not recommend them for use with a 3D printer - if you empty the buffer, the printer will wait for commands and the hotend will create blobs. You're probably better running the printer hardwired or writing our .gcode files and using a memory card with your printer. For other devices, one of these boxes would probably be OK.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Sharing-Station-GUWIP204/dp/B0058DN1Q4


BTW if your printer uses a generic USB->Serial interface with sketchy windows drivers, it may not work at all. name brand printers like Ultimaker, Prusa3D, etc. may fare better.

Over bluetooth no, but there are solutions for USB over WiFi/network, however compatibility can be iffy due to incomplete driver support https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Sharing-Station-GUWIP204/dp/B0058DN1Q4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487241279&sr=1-3&keywords=wireless+usb+sharing

Ones that work directly from USB in to USB out also existed, better compatibility, however they're really hard to find new now http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gefen-4-Port-USB-2-0-Wireless-Extender-/182341038042?hash=item2a745f6fda:g:knEAAOSwHMJYGqT1

There are wireless USB hubs but the reviews are not spectacular.

I don't think Bluetooth has the bandwidth for streaming full HD. I think you'd need a device like this.

That I am not too sure of. Never really seen a specific device like that. And a normal extender will not work because you need to pair the keyboard to the wifi network.

Honestly I am thinking now a wifi enabled USB sharing station. Some of the reviews talk about mice and keyboards.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Sharing-Station-GUWIP204/dp/B0058DN1Q4/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZGT5AP5K484CHG4WY2WD

Non-mobile: use wireless usb

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Are you sure there's not even one USB port at all? They should be on pretty much every computer you can possibly buy nowadays. If there's even one, you can use a USB hub.

Anyway, there are things that pretty much fit into the second option you described above. They're called wireless USB hubs; here's an example of one. You plug in a few USBs into them (or just one), and you can access those USBs through your wifi internet.

I think the list of stuff it can do is just marketing, I can't see why it would work with some USB devices and not others.

I would assume it's really all down to the drivers that convert the network data into USB inputs for the OS, I would expect the designer to design it dumb so that what ever the USB device sent to the sharing station got sent over the network with no interpretation what so ever so that the maximum possible number of devices could be supported.

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Sharing-Station-GUWIP204/product-reviews/B0058DN1Q4

Reviews here suggest that it does work with mice and keyboards but some issues with uncommon hardware like an Oscilloscope, seems like it might be dodgy drivers that need to be able to see the device before they allow you to install them.

No that's not possible for two reasons.

1. There are no apps that do this, and AFAIK the iPad USB adapter is for cameras only
   
   
2. The iPad is too limited and does not offer enough flexibility in the software to allow apps to control the micro over USB.
   
   If you really need to do this, you might be able to use a wireless USB thing ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058DN1Q4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426020868&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+usb+hub&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=31vYGJ5GmeL&ref=plSrch) that you keep with your iPad connected to your PC wirelessly, and then remote desktop into your PC.

I have an older Anker that is now discontinued, but either one of these should fit the bill:

• https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charging-Adapter-Included-VL812-B2/dp/B014ZQ07NE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484614305&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb+hub
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1484614305&sr=8-8&keywords=anker+usb+hub
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-SuperSpeed-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484614305&sr=8-7&keywords=anker+usb+hub

I have the five port version of this sitting on my desk. After several years of daily active use and unplugging/plugging, the data port died, but it works OK as a charger, so it remains present.

I would go with your co-workers recommendation Mainly because being able to flip power out at a switch as opposed to plugging/unplugging can be useful.

If you want more than 10 ports, each running at 2.1A, something like that exists. But it costs $800. The cheapest you'll likely find is around $200. Needing 2.1A per port brings you into the range of devices used by schools to charge their fleets of iPads. If you can make do with a dedicated "charge port" on a USB hub (you can still sync the iPad over Wi-Fi), then you can get away for much less.

You could daisy chain two 10-port hubs together and get 17 usable ports for data (and 2 for charging). I've had good luck with the Anker "10"-port hub.

I've got a 9 port USB 3.0 hub on my 12 South Backpack. Makes a HUGE difference.

http://www.amazon.ca/Release-Anker®-Uspeed-Charging-Adapter/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396054653&sr=1-1&keywords=9+port+usb+hub

Let me know what you think of this. If you want all the USB 3.0 ports you mentioned, you will need to get some USB adapters, I think this or that would suit your needs or could add an internal USB 3.0 hub like this but they only add 4 ports instead of the 13 of the external one that I listed.

If you want a good monitor, check out the Asus PB287Q 28.0" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $96.99 @ Jet
Motherboard | Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $159.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $648.92 @ B&H
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $649.99 @ B&H
Case | Corsair 760T Black V2 ATX Full Tower Case | $162.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic G-750 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $93.99 @ SuperBiiz
Optical Drive | LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $46.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2498.51
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $2478.51
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-03 19:48 EST-0500 |

Or if you wanted to go SLI...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $96.99 @ Jet
Motherboard | Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $159.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $648.92 @ B&H
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $649.99 @ B&H
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $649.99 @ B&H
Case | Corsair 760T Black V2 ATX Full Tower Case | $162.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Jet
Optical Drive | LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $46.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $3174.50
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $3154.50
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-03 19:51 EST-0500 |

Maybe you can take one of them USB PCIe cards out and use something like this powered USB Hub instead?

Buy a USB-A hub and a USB-C adapter.

It's kinda clunky, but there are no good powered USB-C hubs right now.

USB-A hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NGQWL2

USB-C adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DRG8RR

Nevermind, found it: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Adapter-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497551223&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+sync+hub

I want to have several devices plugged into my computer via USB at all times. This will include my USB hub (powered with AC adapter), mouse, keyboard, webcam, USB microphone, wireless headphone charger, Xbox One controller adapter, external HDD (powered with AC adapter)
, and 2 USB powered SSDs.


What should be plugged into the USB hub and what shouldn’t? I’m assuming m+kb, and controller adapter should not be plugged in due to latency. But how about the webcam, mic, and 3 external drives? I do record gameplay through OBS so I don’t want bad quality with the webcam or mic. I also use my external drives to store games that I play every once in a while.

for what its worth i had a horrible time trying PCI cards on my older pc, I went through two and one card just didn't have any USB ports work and the other was very flaky with the ports.

I eventually changed PCs (time to upgrade) but even still didn't have enough USB3 ports for everything, I switched to a 10 port USB external hub hooked into one of my USB3 ports and everything is working much better. Both my Rift sensors are plugged into the Anker hub as is my xbox one elite wireless dongle, webcam, and a backup hard drive. I know people will say a PCI-e card will be better/faster than a external USB hub but at this point I am just happy to not have constant errors and fighting driver issues. One of the ports is a charging port too (top one) and I use it for my phone.

https://smile.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-SuperSpeed-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2

^ thats obviously USA but I think that 10 port hub is pretty commonly sold everywhere.

Something like this? : https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-SuperSpeed-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496005286&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=usb+hub&psc=1

Yep. I'm actually using on of those long with an Anker 9-Port. That hub looks stylish as hell and it's got an extra "charge only" port. Perfect for the fan! Only thing you've gotta keep in mind is that if you use that same hub, do not have it plugged into a USB 3.0 port. You'll only get like <100 MHash/s. Keep it on a 2.0 port and you'll be a-ok!

Why not a hub like this: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-SuperSpeed-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2 ?

I would try a single, powered, USB hub as the power supply for all the devices, but I have a couple of these lying around from an old project. I don't know that this would solve your problem, but I would be surprised if it didn't.

Good thing to know, This is the other I was considering but its also a 3.0 HUB, I'll keep looking: http://www.amazon.com/Release-Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Charging-Adapter/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1374861578&sr=1-2&keywords=Usb+HUB

Here

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This works well for me. most of my phones run at ~.9 A so its perfect, my TF201 is plugged into the 2.1 A charger.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I currently have a Sabernet 4 port USB hub that is a 2.0 in and out port. Charging speeds are slow, data transfer speed is at 2.0 speeds, however it does have a powered hub available so it can charge at regular speeds.

I recently needed more USB ports, as I only have 2 total on my laptop. I wanted 10 total. This is Ankers 10 port USB hub, 9 with data transfer and either 2.0 or 3.0 charging, I do not know if there is a difference, as well as a 10th fast charging port at the very bottom.

So far I've had 6 ports plus the charger plugged in and in use, all functioning and charging at expected speeds for each port (the speed charging port estimates just under 2 hours for the S7 Active and the ASUS ROG, about a hour and a half for the S6 Edge, while the data ports all list roughly 2hr 30min to 3 hours.

Most USB hubs can be daisy-chained, usually the max is around 64 USB ports total.

I've only had this for a few weeks, but it's been treating me just fine. I have noticed that I need to unplug it, and other plugs, when booting my laptop into Windows 10, but not MacOS. This is an issue I've had in the past and I believe is mostly a Windows issue, and not related to the USB hubs specifically. However, it's worth noting.

I use an Amazon Basics USB3 extension cable with mine and have zero issues with clicks or pops.

In fact here's my whole chain

Windows 10

Asus ROG STRIX 270 motherboard with Intel USB3 controller eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft) in XHC mode.

Anker 10-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub

Amazon Basics USB3 6ft extension cable

I have the same brand but with more ports: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I've already filled it up. Works great, it's the best hub I've ever had.

I have an Early 2015 13" rMBP and currently have all of my gear connected via a USB hub.

I'm using the Focusrite Scarlett 18i8 (1st generation) at 24/96 in Ableton Live 9 and there is no noticeable difference in latency when it's connected to the hub or plugged in directly to the onboard USB port.

I've been using this 9-port Anker USB 3.0 hub since I bought this MBP a few months ago, and I can't honestly say anything bad about it. I've got two bus-powered USB HDDs (Western Digital) connected to it, two bus-powered MIDI keyboards/controllers, the USB-MIDI data connections from three synths, and the data connection to the 18i8. The hub is powered by an included AC power adapter, and it all runs swimmingly. The price wasn't too bad either.

Probably sounds like I'm shilling for Anker here, but this particular unit was mentioned quite a few times in my searches for a reliable and stable hub and I'm happy to say that it's done the job perfectly. I haven't looked much into the USB-C standard and whether or not you could buy the cable necessary to convert from USB-C to the USB (3.0 Type B SuperSpeed) connector that this hub uses; if so, I can at least say that this one hub will do what you want. Statistically speaking, I'm sure that means that there are many others out there that perform just as well – if not better.

I have the 9+1 port that is power off the wall from amazon. [This one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Could it be the computer its self not be able to handling those ports?

My condolences, fellow PCMR user. Time to get a gigabit adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1200-WiFi-USB-Adapter/dp/B00UA98HS8

No, I was talking about something like this. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407718476&sr=1-1&keywords=ethernet+usb+startech

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395714870&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+3+nic


That's what I got. Based on ASIX AX88179 chipset I believe.

These ones from Startech are actually properly good: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

And cheap! :)

Just make sure you have a USB 3.0 port.

Woa, that is dirt cheap. I have had something similar and it was a POS. Fell apart rather quickly and stopped working altogether a week after the case fell off. Anyways- why not spend 10x as much and get a USB 3.0 Gigabit adapter?

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

From the official Wiki Guide this are the most recommended lan adapters

>Adapter HORI$29.99AmazonMarch 3, 2017Plugable USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN Network
>
>AdapterPlugable$14.75 AmazonReleasedStarTech USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet NIC Network
>
>AdapterStarTech$29.99 AmazonReleasedAmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet
>
>AdapterAmazon$14.99 AmazonMarch 10, 2017 - Temporarily out of stock / withdrawn
>
>UGREEN Adapter for Nintendo Switch UGREEN$29.99 AmazonReleased

So don't worry your safe buying the UGREEN one, just keep in mind that for some reasons there a bunch of people that have better speed on wifi than over LAN its just a weird thing on some ISP

ITX machine huh?

Sure, you can use USB3 for gigabit as well.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

Could try to different NIC that supports VLAN. Here's one for $20 you could use with laptops. Easier to carry than a switch.

Could be the port. You could try something like this (not recommending a specific brand--there are lots of brands out there and you could probably pick one up at the local Best Buy):

https://www.amazon.com/USB-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

Keep your receipt if you decide to get one so you can return it if it doesn't fix the problem.

Why bother replacing the motherboard, when you can just get a USB ethernet adapter? I would try that well before going the new motherboard route for someone who has never replaced one before.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

Oh, like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

The Plugable and StarTech ones are good quality.

You didn't specify wired or wireless. Here's a wired one:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

That's pretty lame that it doesn't ship with an ethernet port. You need to get a USB 3.0 version (probably with pass through).

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

It seems to have mPCIE, with its wireless card.

If you plan on using an eGPU, make sure you have some sort of Ethernet. Dell sells power banks for it but I’m not sure if they have Ethernet.

Good luck.

Edit: USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet adapter here https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-USB31000S-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network/dp/B0095EFXMC

For the monitors, I just change the inputs as needed. They are wired to both my pc and the docking station for my lap top.

I am using a powered switch for the keyboard/mouse. I had one that wasnt and it was far too unreliable, I kept having to unplug/plug the keyboard.

Edit: I got this

Another edit: also picked up an ac adapter w the csble to power it. It doesnt come with.

Ha! I'm having one of these delivered to me today for my mouse! That exact model!

Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1466541357&sr=8-9&keywords=usb+switch+a%2Fa
I don't have much experience with how USBs work. I know my keyboard has two USB plugs so that it can get enough power, but I don't know if the signal will go from both the inputs into a single output very well.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY

assuming both keyboards are USB...

Here's what I'd try:

• Unplug one of them when gaming. If you still get the issue, you know it's that specific keyboard missing inputs, not because two are plugged in.
  
  
• If you don't get the issue when only 1 device is plugged in, and you don't want to save or invest in a new keyboard, try a USB switch and easily swap between the two.
  
  Good luck!

Googling "USB switch" has the exact described product as the first result. https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Peripheral-Sharing-Switch-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY

Have you seen Level 1 Tech's KVM? They make a dual monitor versions that supports 1440p at 144hz. While not officially supported G-Sync pass-through is reported to work as well as FreeSync. They're cheaper than comparable IOGear dual monitor DisplayPort KVM, but that's not saying much as it's still $565 without cables. https://store.level1techs.com/products/kvm-switch-dual-monitor-model

I've looked for a USB switch that is controllable via keyboard commands but have yet to find one. I'm currently using IOGear's GUS402 4-way USB switch with IOGear's GCS1104 4-way DVI KVM to switch my keyboard and mouse between the console and pass-through ports to get around console port limitations. It has a remote switcher that I put next to my keyboard. The switch works well for the most part but I do have issues with devices not being recognized occasionally and having to cycle through outputs. That's likely due to the fact that I have 20 ft of cable end to end including KVM, switch, and device cables.

You might have more luck asking for a solution in /r/homelab than here. It won't be anything custom built but there might be a used piece of enterprise gear that would do what you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Computer-Peripheral-Sharing-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY?th=1

I don't know what they're called, but you can use a USB A/B switcher.

It's a USB dongle that plugs into both computers, and the keyboard and mouse goes into the dongle. Then you hit the button and it switches from computer A to computer B. I used to use something like this back in the day, but it would switch the monitor too, so you'd have one monitor, and one keyboard/mouse switching between 2 or more computers. I think you'd need an external monitor to have that work with the Macbook Pro and the iMac. But in your case it might be better to see both screens at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Computer-Peripheral-Sharing-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY

May I suggest a km switch. I use this IOGEAR 2 x 4 USB 2.0 Peripheral Sharing Switch (GUS402) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_dzqDub08Z4RD7

And it works perfectly for switching between my gaming rig and my iMac. You could hot glue the actual switch underneath your desk so it's hidden. Also I had those same two desk tops and the larger one started to bow in the middle so I'd definitely recommend a leg in the middle or something. Otherwise wicked clean setup good job

Hate to say it, but I think that article you linked has it right. (I saw another thread on this subreddit referencing a similar issue, but couldn't find it again.)

The article I mention noted that any device which uses a dongle relies on radio frequency (RF) communication, not Bluetooth, so the USB version of the port the dongle is plugged into is more or less irrelevant. The issue causing the choppy performance has to do with the USB hub being improperly shielded - it is the EM interference that is causing the chop.

I have experienced the same thing myself with my Anker hub and my Logitech unifying wireless keyboard/mouse combo. I simply had to stop using it with my surface, and instead picked up a USB switch which allows me to use my wired keyboard/mouse on my desktop and Surface as needed. Somewhat inelegant, but effective.

There isn't a way to automatically switch the bluetooth pairing when you plug your macbook into your IMAC to use as a monitor. However since you are wiring it up anyways, I'd suggest getting a cheap USB KVM (keyboard video mouse). This would only work with a wired keybaord and/or mouse and allow you to switch between which computer the USB connection is routed to. If you're doing a lot of typing you might want to swing by the folks over at /r/MechanicalKeyboards and upgrade to a more pleasurable typing experience. Even a bottom end mechanical keyboard is going to be many times better than a non-mechanical, bottom end ranges from $39-$65.

Since you don't need to actually switch VGA video, I'd recommend a USB switcher only: something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Computer-Peripheral-Sharing-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY/

They have a USB 3.0 version as well which I would recommend if you have a nice external harddrive you'd like to include in the switching, this could switch a USB wired mouse, keyboard, speakers, external Harddrive, or any other USB based peripheral between your iMac and MacBook with the press of a single button.

Found this one, think that's the move... Unless you know of one that integrates HDMI for not much more (yes, my monitor has two inputs, but I'd rather just hit one button, for... elegance purposes). Thanks!

Something like this would work: IOGEAR 2 Computer 4-Port USB 2.0 Peripheral Sharing Switch, GUS402 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Vb0kzbT01Z6E5

And then just have each computer on different inputs on your monitors.

Now need to use optical with the PC. Just use the USB with a USB switch https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Computer-Peripheral-Sharing-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY

I use this and it works really well.

IOGEAR 2 Computer 4-Port USB 2.0 Peripheral Sharing Switch, GUS402

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_42cTDbDGG78HT

So your description is right what I'm looking for, but without a remote, but a button. This is the USB switch I have and I want a button next to it to switch between HDMI's.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wicTCbA8ETQCA

If a keyboard shortcut one is an option that would work just the same. I didn't know that was possible.

I've used this, but if I share the monitors it either requires switching over source through the monitors (which is a pain in the ass since one of my monitors buttons are in the back), or unplugging and replugging the cables. Do you do something differently, or just not share the monitors?

My current best solution seems to be something like this:

Leave the Windows desktop plugged into monitors via DVI.

Two of these: Mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cables (from mac to monitors).

One of these: 2x4 USB Switch

That should let me run the two monitors and use their input selection to go between Mac and PC. The switch should let me just go back and forth with the KB&M.

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

I'm guessing the power needs to come from wall plug since the power provided by PC is already not enough.

Just a quick side note. I bought this from amazon and it kept disconnecting my external hard drive.

I used the external drive on the USB port on the PS4, and the 2nd port was used for this hub. For some reason, whenever I had this hub plugged in, the hard drive would disconnect and i'd have to repair it constantly. It happened constantly so I had to remove to USB hub in the end as it was un-usable with a hard drive plugged in too.

As soon as I unplugged the USB hub, the hard drive has not disconnected once. It sucks because I can't have two guitar hero Bluetooth adapters plugged in and working at the same time, which is why I bought the game in the first place. I only have one port spare, and if I want to charge the controller, I can't use my gold headset.

Maybe there is a better one that actually works, or maybe my PS4 USB slots are faulty. Just wanted to let you know.

I'm talking about something like this.

This PC wouldn't happen to be a laptop or tablet would it?
I have found that portable computers will generally keep USB peripherals on if the computer is getting power from the mains
Though, a powered USB hub is your best bet for this anyways.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462692641&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+powered+hub

So I did a little digging. I'm nearly positive I have this, 2012 Macbook Pro

I'm going to get the following with it, but cannot decide on a monitor.

USB Splitter

Keyboard and mouse

Then the following of two monitors,

Monitor 1

This has a Mini DP cable, which according to the spec's of my laptop I can just plug it directly in.

or

Monitor 2

with a HDMI to lightning port.


I'm struggling to see the difference between the two monitors. Why is one so much more expensive when they are roughly the same size/quality and the cheaper one even has speakers! Just don't want to fall for any Black Friday scams trying to get a high quality item.

I figured with my last lightning port i can get another adapter to a monitor or another monitor similar to this.

Don't power it from your PC, that'd defeat the purpose.
This is the one I mentioned: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80
Its externally power brick is 5V 2.5A, make sure what you bought supply at least that amount with their external brick.

Another idea would to be to plug this adpater into the usb 3 header on your motherboard and then attach a usb 3 hub like this and then use multiple adapters that I linked earlier.

Not a pretty solution but it would work.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=32QE84U3BGH8E&coliid=I22TCQNNM555TU&psc=1

I was looking in the same issue of having a usb that is both externally powered and usb powered. i know its amazon brand but if this works out well, then this might be the best one for the price.

Thank you for the quick reply! If I go with a simple, externally powered USB hub such as the one I have listed below, what are the benefits of OTG? Can I use the USB hub for a second controller? Why OTG vs. a hub?

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bETiDbQTT1139

From what I understand, no. The power goes to the iPad, the power to the USB device stays limited. You can get around it by using a powered hub, such as:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

Thanks a lot for your response.

when you say "powered" do you mean something like that https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80 ?

When you say "better" do you refer to something like Schiit Bifrost?

What part of the specs is responsible for that noise? I assume it is not "noise floor"? Would something like that even show up in specs?

----
After spending 30min obsessively clicking through Spotify audio library I also realized that intensity of white noise varies from track to track. So I might be actually having two issues..

• recording quality. The "tone"/"volume" of the noise is changing from one recording to another. I never realized that could be an issue :\
  
• cheaper dac.. (I hear it even on the latest David Bowie album, so it is not just due to age/quality of recordings).
  
  ----
  My current MDR-7506 have 63 Ohms impedance, so I was concern that there
  won't be much difference between my current headphones and 80-ohm version of DT 770.. I guess another learning that I should stop buying audio equipment online without listening to it first :)
  
  PS the actual set up I have in front of me is fulla 2 (works in DAC only mode) + magni 3 (I assume I should have gotten Modi, instead of fulla, but it is a whole different issue. I am now trying to figure out whether there is any meaningful difference between modi and fulla).
  

Try plugging it into a powered USB hub. This one would be fine:

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d1uYAb7H9P593

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

This should work, right?

No worries! I think I am overloading the 5V rail on the RPI as my Samba share is a little unstable while streaming movies off of it. I might get something like this to help out: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

This one: AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p.dwCb1JT23AG

That's good the motherboard ports still work. There's a couple things you can get for more. There's just a simple external usb hub, an internal 3.5" sata hub, or an internal pcie hub ( if you're case/motherboard will support either of those).

That cpu is definitely no slouch, I don't think it needs an upgrade.

The 750 ti is a little under-powered nowadays, but it should still run those games somewhat ok. If you wanted to upgrade it I'd say an rx 470 would be a great idea. If you check r/buildapcsales you can find them for about $140 sometimes. Need to make sure your power supply and case will fit it though. Do you know what the power supply is? The case is probably fine as long as it's not one of those tiny ones.

A second monitor (or just nicer, what's the one you have?) could certainly be nice for just everyday use / multitasking. It wouldn't really make gaming a ton better unless you got a high end one like 144hz or even 1440p (which you would also need a better video card for). An i5 3470 + rx 470 should play pretty much any current game on med-high settings at 1080p 60fps.

If you don't already have an SSD I'd say that should definetly be part of the upgrade. It's one of the best things you can do to make a computer feel faster/snappier. It won't improve gaming fps. But putting the OS and most used programs/games will make the whole system feel super quick.

$800-1000 could definitely build a pretty beast rig. But imo it's not really worth it for your needs. Some good upgrades would be best I think.

If it is with the USB's, could I use this instead of a PCIe card: https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539926295&sr=8-3&keywords=powered+usb+hub ?

The purpose you're trying to use it for definitely doesn't call for a TB3 dock; you'd be able to get by fine with just a USB-C dock. The difference can be a hundred bucks or more. The main reason I'd recommend a TB3 dock specifically is for a laptop that only has one TB3 port (the dock will then give you an additional TB3 port for chaining more devices together) but since your Carbon has 2 thunderbolt ports, you can use one on a USB-C dock and then have one left over for any TB3 devices you might also wish to connect later on as you acquire them.

For maximum benefit, I'd recommend a USB-C dock that has at least 3 USB-A ports and an HDMI connector. Two come to mind - the Satechi 4k which also lets you plug in an ethernet cable and is beautiful. A personal favorite of mine for laptops that can do USB power delivery is the Iogear. That one would let you have a single cable solution to connect all your devices and get power over a single cable (you just have to have a USB charger to plug into the dock, too). Both roughly the same price.

​

If you don't care about having everything running over a single cable to your laptop, you can save yourself some pesos and just get a regular hub instead of a dock. It could even be a USB-A hub since your laptop has one of those.

You'll need a powered hub then. The phone itself doesnt supply enough power to turn it on itself.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f.K6BbKGP480D

Should do the trick just fine

Something like this

Powered USB hub? Switches from bus power to power adapter when PC is off.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

woah. that sounds clever. Not sure if I've ever used one of those. Is this the type of thing you're thinking of? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

You'll just have to get a powered USB hub.

You want ones that have an external power supply. Like http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/

I just looked at the Microphone it's powered by USB.

You can buy a powered USB hub to run independently to a wall outlet so you can use the microphone

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

1. I haven't played either one, so I can't comment. Sorry!
   
   
2. Nintendo's list of tested drives (http://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1359/p/431/c/563) includes a couple of 1 TB. Of the links they provide, it looks like you can still get a 1 TB one here: http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/desktop-hard-drives/expansion-hard-drive/. But it doesn't necessarily need external power for you to use it. If you get a USB hub that can plug into a wall (like this: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8), even one without its own power supply should work. That's what I use, anyway.
   
   
3. Assuming you're in the US, the Nintendo online store sells them for $15 + shipping. (https://store.nintendo.com/ng3/us/po/browse/productDetailColorSizePicker.jsp?categoryNav=true&navAction=jump&navCount=0&atg.multisite.remap=false&productId=prod400003&categoryId=cat160004)

I use the Gold headset w/ dongle, and a wireless keyboard with dongle.

I use this USB adapter WITHOUT the power adapter plugged in. All 4 ports work fine using just the PS4 power: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFGH80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I charge my controllers when not in use with this: http://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Controller-Charging-Station-PlayStation-4/dp/B00ENFVJJO/ref=sr_1_1

On the occasions I have to charge controller/headset while playing, I just purchased a long USB cable: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5139&seq=1&format=2

There's actually a number of Amazon Basics USB 3.0 hubs. There's a little 4 port one, a 7 port one, and a 10 port one. I'm assuming the underlying tech is all pretty similar, so it's mostly just a question of how many ports one needs.

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BVQNDbAKTX3F4
This is the hub i use. I’ll try and snap a pic sometime and send you.

I would suggest a powered USB hub if you plan on plugging a lot of things into it. Here's an Amazon Basics one I found.

I have the Odyssey+ and just got extension cables for it recently. The AmazonBasics gear all worked fine for me:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
  
• AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female Adapter Cord - 9.8 Feet
  
• AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter
  
  I tried it without the powered hub at first and got long static bursts on the audio. Of course, the hub has to go between the headset cable and the extension cable. The power adapter cable is only 5 feet though.

You could get a USB 3.0 hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=asc_df_B00DQFGH805117565/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00DQFGH80&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16338386308356904038&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028306&hvtargid=pla-281221827342

You could add another slot of usb 3.0 into your current build: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200523&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Data+Adapters-_-N82E16812200523&gclid=Cj0KCQjwq7XMBRCDARIsAKVI5QZr9lnB3RLeHG89__bxGS1hPJ0WJ5SCwsozHZF7wy7EofPlGl9vPrkaAnslEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is the one I used for my laptop: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Portable-Aluminum-2-Foot/dp/B00O0KISQE/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00O0KISQE&pd_rd_r=489QEWG9DFFXEM0F6PWJ&pd_rd_w=usKGN&pd_rd_wg=cAAL4&psc=1&refRID=489QEWG9DFFXEM0F6PWJ

Idk about the one you were looking at personally, but I can vouch for the one I just put up there. However, I have since switched from laptop to tower gaming and have been using this one since the power adapter didn't matter to me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=twister_B00FB50S0Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have never tried an extension of the USB cable, but I have actually used a longer HDMI cable. You could potentially get a longer HDMI cable to plug your laptop into a central location or a location near your chairs and then plug the controllers in that way. Unfortunately I have no experience with USB extensions so I don't want to misguide you with any guesses.

I don't think you have to go very fast on the drive, especially if you plan to push that data off the Pi over wifi/ethernet. The Pi is not going to keep be able to push data at full speed from a 5400 rpm drive. Have you considered boards with SATA (like the cubieboards)?

If you don't buy a drive with it's own power then the easiest way to do these setups is to buy a USB3 hub (USB3 because they typically have better power supplies). That way the voltage drop from the drive spinning up is less likely to affect the Pi. If that's not an option then you can add capacitors to help as well.

> I just don't want to buy something that turns out it won't work.

Well, there's always a way to make it work. At worst you'd have to buy a $17 hub. I would do a little research to make sure you're going to get the performance you want though.

Amazon basics also has some nice USB hubs.

Not sure if they're better or on par with the Anker recommended in this thread, but Amazon Basics always makes quality stuff for cheap, similar to monoprice.

I have a rpi3 and a portable usb ssd. Of course I get the low power problems. I want to buy this hub

Will this solve my low powered problems? The device says it supports auto switching between self-power and buspower mode. But if I connect my rpi will it use its buspower or use the power adaptor for the hub? Obviously I will need the hub to use the power adaptor power.

This is an example of a powered hub. It comes with a powered adapter. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

I am actually reusing an old 7 port insigna hub I bought from bestbuy a few years ago but this 4 port hub from amazon looks good. when looking for a powered hub make sure it comes with an AC adapter

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DQFGH80/?coliid=I117EH3HJBXNA2&colid=H4GY1FTC823D&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.ca/Alimao-Drive-Enclosure-External-Caddy/dp/B07L691JM1/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?keywords=usb+2.5+caddy&qid=1556224309&s=gateway&sr=8-28

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=amazon+basic+power+usb+hub&qid=1556224376&s=gateway&sr=8-1


Here you go. These two

Get a USB hub like this one. Since you are on an A+, a powered USB hub may be a better option, but either will work.

If you use a powered hub out of the screen for the headset it should resolve that issue, something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80
Then you can probably still use the extender.

Thanks for the info. I am infact using a USB hub for power. The exact model is linked below: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The 3 dedicated charge ports provide 2.1A of power so I assume that is enough juice for the drive/PSC to operate properly? Perhaps I need a higher source of power to resolve the stuttering?

We've had an Anker 10-port (7 data, 3 charge) USB 3.0 hub since we purchased our first Shield Pro unit. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well I kind of found a solution. I bought an external USB hub that I connected to the USB port on the surface. The one I bought in particular was this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VDVCQ84/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1458129562&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+hub But I think any that is powered externally will work. This fixed my problem and my mouse and arcade stick are now recognized.

I recently upgraded to an x56 as well. I have been using this without issue. Have both the joystick and throttle, as well as a couple of other items plugged into it:

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm trying to use my Pi 3 B+ as a Kodi box.

I'm using this powered hub with an external 4tb usb 3.0 hard drive that has media on it. The drive is using NTFS.

I'm completely new to any kind of Unix/Linux software.

Using "sudo blkid" shows the hard drive under /dev/sda1, but sda1 does not exist when I browse /dev.

I tried using this guide but made no progress.

They are unfortunately vague about specs. But this one does supply a 2.1A for the ipad. I even have it powering a Moog Sirin. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using the Apple Multiport Adapter for power, HDMI (for the TV), and connection to my USB switch. The USB switch is connected to this Anker USB-A hub.

There's a bunch of options for USB-C hubs on Amazon. I've been using this HooToo hub at the office for a year now and it works fine.

I think it is more about power than the cabling...

Inatek USB card as noted below, which is available on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or a Powered hub might work for you, it helped me though I already had it, but the PCI card is probably better:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or a shorter Amazon basics cable length perhaps? 6feet instead of 9?

Okay, so in case you or anyone else was wondering, I got it to work.

I ended up purchasing https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In case the link dies it's an Anker 10 Port 60W USB 3.0 Hub with 7 Data Transfer Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports. Basically you plug that into an outlet, so make sure you have an available outlet near the USB Hub.

I plugged that into my usb extension cable (which is a BlueRigger 32 feet USB 2.0 Type A Male to A Female Active Extension / Repeater Cable seen here https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005LJKEXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Then I plugged the DolphinBar into the first port. Works like a charm. Basically, the extension cable just needed more juice because it couldn't transmit the signal through 32 feet of cable without an external source.

And, for the record, if anyone comes across an issue like this, my next step was to do USB over a Cat5 or Cat6 (or whichever cable you prefer to use) which I was fairly certain would have worked.

Learned a lot about USB cables.

That's most likely good news, then. My controller was acting up when I got it, too (including driver install issues), and it turned out that my USB port wasn't supplying enough power for the controller to do anything but light up. I invested in a USB hub with an external power source (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84) and the controller has been working perfectly ever since.

I dunno if this is the same problem you're having, but it might be worth a try?

That looks good! Would an Anker 3.0 hub work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=verbatrix08-20&linkId=b451e63ec3a20b6abd3d7d766d46783c

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Does this kind of hub just work on its own? No need for other USB ports Or is it powered by another, already in there USB port? Because if that's how it works, I think I only have 2.0s.