Best vehicle hoists & jacks according to redditors
We found 253 Reddit comments discussing the best vehicle hoists & jacks. We ranked the 123 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 253 Reddit comments discussing the best vehicle hoists & jacks. We ranked the 123 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
wheel dollies...greatest prank tool ever
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1580-Stinger-Roller-Dolly/dp/B000O1E4WU
edit:
since a lot of folks apparently aren't familiar with how these things operate:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=i5evHL7jtTM#t=86s
> In that case, then the only way he could have moved it was with a tow truck, like this
This is not true. Could have been done with 4 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-1580-Stinger-Roller/dp/B000O1E4WU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mush3hNbnmY
They sell a floor jack at Costco from Arcan for $100.
This is it or similar ($249 on Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-ALJ3T-Aluminum-Floor-Jack/dp/B0047D2FWM
I consider a jack a safety item which is not something to skimp on. That said, you don't have to blow the bank either.
Costco doesn't always have the jack in stock but Arcan jacks usually last a long, long time.
I use these jackstands and they are absolutely amazing. They make the other "best" jackstands sold at big box stores look puny in comparison. The only drawbacks are they're expensive (~$65/ea) and the lowest lift height is equivalent to around middle of the way up on normal/smaller jackstands.
http://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM
This is a great detailed review which is what turned me on to Esco: http://revlimiter.net/blog/2010/07/mega-jack-stand-review-1/
Here…
$18 for a pair of 3 ton stands shouldn't break the bank.
Heh just acquire some Hydraulic Wheel Dollies (or just three buddies with hydraulic jacks), and pickup and move the truck a small enough distance to not be considered grand theft auto, possibly move it to be blocking in a different asshole, or such that he has to get in from the passenger side.
I'll spare you the long rundown and assume you're aware of the dangers of a Hi-lift jack. Long story short, they can be awesome, or awesomely dangerous if you don't know exactly what you're doing (people have died). That said, if you still want one, and you really want to blow his mind, then there are a couple "musts", such as:
Source: I also own a lifted 1999 4Runner on 32"s
Rather than destroying the car as many of the posters here seem to be encouraging why not just move the car.
Using a set of hydraulic wheel dollys you can simply push the car out of the space.
pic
LINK
The base is completely different, allowing for a much wider array of uses, as is the additional top jaw.
They do, however charge $149.55 for the 'conversion kit'
http://firstresponder.hi-lift.com/resources/First_Responder_Conversion_Kit_Flyer.pdf
This is a better comparison:
http://smile.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464054291&sr=1-1&keywords=hi-lift+xtreme
where it has the additional top jaw, at that point it's $100 for paint, stickers and a base.
Hey! I'm not nearby but I can tell you exactly how to get out because I was in your exact shoes about a year ago. It's not about pulling your truck straight back or digging. You have to lift it up first and then back it out. You need a hi lift Jack and a wheel mate:
https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-LM100-Jack-LM-100-Lift-Mate-x/dp/B00042KGWG
Attach that to your front wheel, lift the wheel up out of the rut, fill in the whole underneath it with anything that has traction, and lower the wheel back down. Repeat for at least the other front wheel, or all four if necessary. You'll be able to drive right out.
No need for a fancy winch.
These if you plan on leaving them up for any extended amount of time. The ones you posted I use as secondary backups in case the mains fail. I want to avoid getting crushed to death if possible.
Extreme Max 5001.5044 5001.5044... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028JQYPG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OQmAub18JM8GV
if this is a common problem get a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0F33O/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2972357942&pd_rd_wg=GH1F1&pf_rd_r=5B6V402C319QEFT49CKC&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B003W0F33O&pd_rd_w=XNfsN&pf_rd_i=car+wheel+skate&pd_rd_r=B9FS8X3X491RXZ3ZA380&ie=UTF8&qid=1500773830&sr=1
or these if you already have a jack: https://www.amazon.com/Pentagon-Tools-5060-Tire-Skates/dp/B000UAGDTC/ref=pd_cp_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UAGDTC&pd_rd_r=G2VYWZS4ZMTQPH50PQWR&pd_rd_w=YwRpg&pd_rd_wg=AYZOP&psc=1&refRID=G2VYWZS4ZMTQPH50PQWR
Roll their shitbox out of your spot and then call SFS for a car being left in the middle of the road.
You can also use an easy roller, something tow trucker driver use to pull a car out of tight spot or garages use to move cars around easy. One guy could have used 4 of em but there like 100 dollars a pop at least. Maybe he works in that industry?
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-1580-Stinger-Roller/dp/B000O1E4WU
Put this at the other end:
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Steel-Jack-Stands/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520369095&sr=8-1&keywords=jackstand
Should be sturdy enough...
you can replace your friends with http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O1E4WU/
I have this https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5044-Motorcycle-Scissor/dp/B0196PAZ1S and I'm happy with it. If you go with it buy a 7/8 deep socket and leave it on the stand for easy adjustments
From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.
However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:
Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.
Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.
Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)
Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.
Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.
This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...
Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)
Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.
Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)
Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.
I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.
Not an expert, but
I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.
Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.
My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___
Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.
If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.
Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.
Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.
Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.
You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.
Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.
Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.
Then you can address your other issues.
Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:
If the current ones are working, call them spares.
Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.
I've often fantasized about carrying Go-Jacks with me and moving the cars myself.
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Jack-6200-Lb-Capacity-GJ-6200/dp/B000VNFYXO
Two things I'd reccomend.
Other than that a car jack is a pretty straightforward buy. Picked this one up a few years back at a local shop, for about 145.
Pittsburgh Automotive 3 Ton Heavy Duty Ultra Low Profile Steel Floor Jack with Rapid Pump Quick Lift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.yfsDbB1HFPPP
E: user below pointed out there are specific jack pads you can buy. I've had success on every car I've owned with just folding a shop rag and placing that on the jack cup prior to lifting the vehicle. This prevents any slippage and will grip better than the jack on the raw lift point.
E2: I did some more digging and found that the jack points on the model 3 are jackpoint compatible. It would make sense to use recommended pucks and stands that fit the jackpoint hole. You could use something like this with relative ease. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html Note that i dont own them nor do i work for them.
These are also pretty slick: https://safejacks.com/collections/compact-jack-stands/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit
It seems to be the consensus that you should only use the 4 designated lift points as the crossmembers are not available to you underneath the vehicle, so you cant get the front up on a single point. This means the jack will occupy the space you need to put the jack stand. Hence the reasoning for linking the two jackable stands.
Hi-Lift jacks are really designed for agricultural applications, like jacking up a wheel tractor by the axle, but they work great for off-road vehicle stuff. However, the jack does not mate with typical "civilian" bumpers well. 4 Wheel Drive Parts, Summit Racing, Amazon and others sell an adapter that fits on a Hi-Lift and allows you to jack up a vehicle with a conventional curved steel bumper. It's called a BL-250 bumper lift.
http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-BL-250-Bumper-Lift/dp/B00042JSNY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1464636486&sr=8-10&keywords=high+lift+jack+accessories
And the Hi-Lift jack, itself.
http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=pd_sim_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31uiCiEJb%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R8PKSGH1MMK7F92NCXS
Over the years, I have found three used Hi-Lift jacks at garage sales, etc. usually for very reasonable prices--$30-$40. They are extremely tough, and can be re-built easily. I would never trust a vehicle sitting on a jack, not a Hi-Lift or any other jack. The vehicle must be sitting on JACK STANDS to be safe. Never go under any vehicle sitting on a jack without jack stands.
http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T41202-Jack-Stands-pair/dp/B0002H335A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464637124&sr=1-1
You're probably okay to do as you describe. You may wish to get a rubber piece or some wood to prevent damage to the pinch weld though.
I have a piece like this: https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-rubber-MEDIUM/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497976672&sr=8-1&keywords=jack++pinch+weld
In practice though I use my jack for the front cross member without issue. It scrapes the plastic skirts a bit getting under there but it goes.
I've got the big heavy expensive one from sears in the garage along with a couple of $20 walmart specials. Honestly I use the walmart specials 9 times out of 10 because they are so light and easy to grab.
With that in mind I'd look for something aluminum and light weight. 3ton is still going to be heavy but you can get [this one]
(https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-ALJ3T-Aluminum-Floor-Jack/dp/B0047D2FWM) that's about half the weight of a standard steel one like this one.
Every jack stand rating I've seen is for a pair. Here's my Craftsman 2 1/4 ton stands, for example(look in the warning section). Some Harbor Freight stands. These stands on Amazon also specifically state their rating is for the pair.
Actually, they do make adapters that will fit onto the pinch welds. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Saddle-Adapter-Rocker-DP-Company/dp/B01N1ID2KZ or https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Protector/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=pd_bxgy_2/139-4332485-1348812?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MA232WY&pd_rd_r=73a3427b-60bf-11e9-b2ef-bb2ae37525d6&pd_rd_w=X1N83&pd_rd_wg=tRvUY&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ&psc=1&refRID=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ Lexus/Toyota write their manuals assuming that you will take your car to a mechanic. I have a Corolla myself and I do all of my own work.
That said, I do have a jack (actually 3), jack stands, and wheel chocks (My car is a manual transmission). I will never work on a car with just the scissor jack.
Edit: One additional line.
There are dollies (I have also heard them called skates) that some places use to move cars around.
These make it so you don't have to run the car with exhaust, noise and tire marks inside buildings/showrooms. This also allows you to position it in places that would be tougher or perhaps impossible to drive to. You can push the vehicle horizontally and you can spin it around in place. It would be time-consuming and a bit of work for the crew, but this would be my guess as to how they solved this problem. Have a few sets of those dollies, and have a few teams push the cars around in different areas.
It is also possible that these dealerships have things that are even better and easier nowadays. It has been over 10 years since I worked at the dealership, so it is possible things have gotten better. Also, I am sure this Porche dealership has more money than the Ford dealership I worked for. So they can afford to spend more money to move their more expensive cars.
I use on of these.
They make a product that allows you to lift via attaching to the wheel
Hi-Lift Jack LM-100 Lift-Mate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00042KGWG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are my most used tools for working on cars.
Trim tool - For molding and trim and windows, this is a must
http://www.amazon.com/No-Scratch-Tools-Removing-Fastener-Molding/dp/B000LNBLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692539&sr=8-4&keywords=bmw+tools
Tool Set - Here is your best bet for general tools. Start with this basic tool kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-96-011-170-piece-Mechanics-Tool/dp/B002VXN6TG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692665&sr=8-4&keywords=automotive+tool+kit
Code reader - then this so you can read check engine codes and properly fix the issue. This is a tool that will save you so much money.
http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692484&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+2+scanner
Jacks stands - Not so important but pick up some cheap jack stands
http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692837&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands
Light - And a very helpful thing is a good light
http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-1002-Halogen-Project-Light/dp/B000FW7UH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692872&sr=8-2&keywords=work+lights
I would like to start changing the oil on my car (potentially on my parent's too) so does anyone have the link to that floor jack post from a couple days ago, if there was one? I have a 2000 Celica GTS, if you want to recommend anything here. I was thinking this with these jack stands, but that jack is expensive for me. I just don't want to have a car on my face.
Also, what are some other jack points/ jack stand positions other than the ones on the side of the car for the scissor jack?
Just get these. They'll come in handy.
No kidding. I was amazed when I found out that you can get one of these for like $40.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerzone-380033-Steel-Floor-Jack/dp/B003UM42J0/ref=sr_1_6/191-5799343-8330658?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656029&sr=8-6&keywords=car+jack
Or you can do things the easy way and get a couple of these if you just want under the car...not so great for changing a tire.
http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Capacity/dp/B006EGAIII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656071&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+ramps
Keep a set of these in your Tesla.. https://www.amazon.com/Dragway-Tools-Hydraulic-Positioning-Capacity/dp/B003W0F33O/ That way you can move their car for them.
Not trying to be a jerk, but buy some jack stands. They're cheap and wayyyyy safer than keeping a vehicle on a jack. Jack vehicle up, insert jack stand, put vehicle down on jack stand. Fucker isn't going to move after that! (DON'T use the jack stand as shown in the amazon pictures, that's a great way to fuck up your body work. Put it under a frame member!)
Or, like my old truck, you could just reach in over the front tire to replace the oil filter, and combined with a fumoto valve on the drain plug you have a no tools oil change! (Unless a drain pan counts as a tool, of course.)
I love my Esco stands
Torin T10152 Big Red Steel Scissor Jack, 1.5 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PX8BC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W5puzbYSS6Q5W
This'll'do'er
I suggest u amazon impact sockets (mm not sae) and deep impact sockets both in 1/2 instead of normal ones (I wish I did this =/ ). also buy a pipe that will go over the breaker bar to extend it. Unless workout like MMA fighter, u will need it
I also have this.
And a socket to drill adapter, makes life really easy. Even to just use scissor jack with.
Here is the desktop version of your link
GoJacks my friend. Then throw it up on a flatbed if they care enough
Don't be cheap with raising your car up, seriously. What's saving 30 bucks when your life is at stake? 25 bucks at amazon for a pair of 3 ton stands.
Please do not use blocks of wood.
I use a Big Red motorcycle jack that I also use to jack the wife's car for oil changes (with jack stands, of course). Got it on sale from Harbor Freight for about $49 years ago, they go for around $89 now.
Once you get the plastic off you can simply jack the bike using almost any jack, pivoting on rear wheel and sidestand (making sure bike is in gear so it doesn't roll). Then remove calipers, axle, and take wheel off. If you can manage to lift it without taking plastic off (as in the video below) that would be good as well.
You'll get told not to let the calipers hang by the hoses... so don't let calipers hang by the hoses.
This video shows front/rear removal, front starts about 3:45.
If you have the stock took kit it might provide what you need. Allen/hex wrench for the axle pinch bolts and the plug socket might fit the axle. Otherwise the guy in the video gives advice on a tool to get the axle out.
If you don't have much in the way of automotive tools, it's going to be an allen wrench set (for the pinch bolts), 22 or 24mm axle tool (or plug socket the appropriate mm end), valve core tool (some valve stem caps have a core remover end), bead breaker, and spoons.
If you have a gearhead friend they'd almost certainly have everything you need except maybe the axle tool (a correct plug socket possibly) and spoons. Walmart has a spoon set for about $19.
When you get to the actual tire removal/install, it's all about technique. The tire can be a bear to get off unless you keep the bead opposite from the side you're working on in the center well. Same is true when installing the new tire. I use a big C-clamp to keep the opposite beads together and it keeps the bead in the center of the wheel. Also, it might help to lay the new tire out in the sun as you begin the project. Warming it helps make it flexible.
Air... you're going to need to air the new tire enough to seat the beads. This can be about 60psi or more so prepare for that. If the new tire beads won't seat while you're airing it up, you may have to bounce the wheel/tire to get the beads to contact the side of the rim long enough to contain air. This can get very frustrating. A compressor helps because with a large volume of air it doesn't require the bead to contact very long, it almost immediately seals the tire and begins to seat the bead.
My tire change from a couple of days ago.
edit: all that and I forgot, most tires are directional. One of the tire change photos points that out. Having done this many times, like anything else trying to tell someone how it's done, many steps get left out because after so many iterations much of it is done unconsciously. Make sure you have a tire gauge handy. Some people get crazy about balancing, I don't balance but do line the yellow dot (if there's a dot) with the valve stem.
Solid deal right now https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Automotive-Heavy-Ultra-Profile/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13F47ITVMCJXO&keywords=jack+lift+car&qid=1572704169&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sprefix=jack+lift%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-5
I got these a while back.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bcStybKPMP9EB. They feel really solid. More than enough for my 2 ton Acura specially when I'm only lifting up one side. But never hurts to be cautious i suppose.
Something like this would do fine: https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T10152-Scissor-Jack-1-5/dp/B004PX8BC2
This is the guide I followed for replacing my transmission & differential oil. Had to educate myself on jack safety on Youtube as well. First time doing any type of mechanic work and hoping to do more in the near future :0)
Had to go back to the hardware store to return my original floor jack I bought since it was too large to mount to the two main jacking points. Got a low profile jack at a Harbor Freight store instead.
Which begs the question - where do people usually jack up cars that are lowered (springs/coilovers) besides the two main obvious spots shown in the manual? This low profile jack barely clears all the way to the front main jack point. This is without using a car lift at the jack stand points.
I just got a set of 4 of these and they are the premium option. My set was $133 but from a shady online dealer usa tool (had to wait a month but got them). Feels amazing to be under a car not propped by my shady stands https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM
My father got a Craftsman version of this lift: https://www.amazon.com/PowerZone-380047-1700-Hydraulic-Motorcycle/dp/B003UM9GDM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=atv+lift&qid=1554752971&s=gateway&sr=8-3 It works really well for getting it off the ground. It doesn't work well for oil changes, but great for getting the rear wheel out.
Had this one for years and no issues with it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UM9GDM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bought mine on AMZN- BOLT 7028648 Hi-Lift Jack Mount for Jeep Wrangler (Black Mount for Driver Side, J-Mount). During the installation, you can fit your Jeep's key to the lock.
Pretty happy with these
I picked up this one from Amazon for $100 w/prime shipping
I like ESCO flat tops, particularly in cases where the vehicle has a flat jack pad:
https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM
Great! I bet if you look under the car, behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel, inside of the side skirts or other plastic moulding, right near the pinch welds, you'll see some triangle arrows stamped/marked/notched out.
Also, you may be interested in something like this for your jack:
https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510856163&sr=8-3&keywords=pinch+weld+jack+pad
Something like this works fairly well... it's basically a 3/4" hex wrench that fits snugly over the jack:
https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-57363-Leveling-Scissor-Socket/dp/B001V8U12M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511197626&sr=8-1&keywords=scissor+jack+socket
Okay, so I am looking at getting a car still and want to try and do some of my own work.
When you jack up the car, what do are you supposed to use (if you don't have one of those big lifts)? [Something like this?](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB)[Or this?](http://www.amazon.ca/Torin-T42002-Jack-Stands-Pairs/dp/B0028JQYPG/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_3_4HVK?ie=UTF8&refRID=15QJZ8WECKR5ASTT53JC) And how many would I need, like just to lift one side of the car (so 2)?
Go Jacks!
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Jack-6200-Lb-Capacity-GJ-6200/dp/B000VNFYXO
Hi-lift jacks are very dangerous and should only be used when nothing else will do the job. I use mine only for getting unstuck, a bottle jack or small floor jack are much safer for things like tire changes.
To help reduce how high I have to lift the vehicle, I use a Lift-Mate. If you jack from the chassis, you have to lift the vehicle much higher due to the suspension droop, this allows you to lift from the tire and is more stable.
Another thing to consider is whether or not you have and lift points on your chassis, the tow hitch is a good spot for the back, but unless you have added a seriously tough front bumper and sliders, you may not be able to jack from anywhere - another reason for the Lift Mate.
Finally, think about the ground. You may need a base to keep the jack from sinking if you are on soft ground like sand or mud. I've used mine for my bottle jack too.
I suggest you watch this video about high lift jacks.
http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11930-Hugger-Wheel-Chock/dp/B000BQYH6Q
http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0
Cheaper than a funeral!
Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_rGt1Ab1YM58V5
I have this and it works perfectly for me. It lifts the bike tall enough to change your tires and stable enough too. And it's easy to store when you are not using it.
Hi-Lift Jack 4X400 4XRAC - https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-4X400-4XRAC-Mounting-System/dp/B000CMHNY2
They look like Esco Jack stands. I've been wondering myself what the quality is like.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM&ved=0ahUKEwiL1O_TjYTUAhXBOSYKHX5MALcQFgiDATAA&usg=AFQjCNHSLQYguOkfpvniLtj_F2FU1z_CVQ&sig2=TsPmFQEQy9UW2kc_5CpCaw
Mine is mounted on my driver side A pillar, the only noise it makes is whistling in the wind.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AXDWOW0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GH1PTG
If there's no ice, get a set of these http://www.amazon.com/Four-1500-Hydraulic-Wheel-Dolly/dp/B003W0F33O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413183280&sr=8-4&keywords=car+dolly and you can push the offending vehicle where ever you want.
harbor freight has 3 ton jack stand for $21 a pair right now. I would have bought them but their locking mechanism is shit imo. I got these instead still waiting for them to be delivered https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Stands/dp/B00026Z3E0. Going to put concrete blocks under the tires too when I lift the car up. Just bought some nice solid rubber chocks at Harbor freight for like $7.99 each, way better than the flo tools crap one's. Then went next store to advance auto parts and bought a 2-ton jack that was on sale for $24.99, that I have yet to open.
$120 on amazon
Everything for a Jeep is expensive lol.
The lugs are the same size(21mm) and the jack will work, the Prius hasn't gotten much heavier in the past few years. So any tire iron that's 21mm will work, and any jack that is rated to lift 3100lb will work.
However if I had a chance, I would get an aftermarket jack that will be more reliable than the stock ones. This looks like a good option. Hell, put that together with this wrench and you'll be set. Can't get much cheaper than $30 for this stuff.
Its not for everyone, but i have mine mounted to the a pillar, it makes no noise at all, and unless im really looking, i cant see it. Its also keyed to my jeeps key, so its locked up too. Maybe worth checking out. Here is a link to the actual product.
BOLT 7028648 Hi-Lift Jack Mount for Jeep Wrangler (Black Mount for Driver Side, J-Mount) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AXDWOW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_eRLNnRJ9DNQco
UV-5R, small axe, 3/8 socket set, random pipe, water bottles, tow strap, mosquito repellant, hi-lift jack with liftmate, moving blanket, tarp, paracord, aerokroil
if I had to pick three things it would be the UV5R, blanket, socket set, paracord. see what I did there?
I've got this (Extreme Max Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KPQEzbC5ZMP4Q). It's been pretty useful for chain stuff and other work I've done on the bike.
However, I got a Triumph center stand from a neighbor for cheap, so the jack doesn't get much use anymore. I'm on a bonneville, but I'd recommend a center stand to anyone. It's very convenient.
Yup. They pop off and then the jack can get to the pinch weld. Make sure to use a pinch weld adapter if you are using a normal floor jack.
I hate referencing amazon, but this is probably all you need. $20 and it might save your life. link: jack stands
Remember, they are just stabilizers, not jacks. They just help take out some of the bounce. You can pick up a bit for your drill so you can use a cordless drill for raising and lowering.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Scissor-Adapter-57363/dp/B001V8U12M/
These are a better time.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0F33O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_HCT6ybRKH120J
Not cheap, but of the several kinds I own, these are my favorite.
ESCO 10498 Jack Stand, 3 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019JVIPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LASlzbAFRVNNE
Get some car jack stands under the server, then undo the cage nuts. Easy extract, and you get bonus jack stands when you're done.
I took the rubber pads off my footpegs and then I flipped my footpegs upside down and put a Jack Stand underneath each one, the bike will balance back and forth I propped up each side with some random stuff laying around (i used a bucket and a spray paint can lol)
​
It's def jerry rigged together, but a quick and cheap fix, also it's extremely sturdy.
which hi-lift jack mount do you have, and what do you think of it? i am looking at the BOLT jack mount, since it locks with the ignition key.. amazon link
EDIT: should add, I currently have the hood mount, but it gets in the way of my windshield washer jets, which is a bummer. the AEV rear bumper and tire carrier are on the longer term list but i want something short term...
https://www.amazon.com/Go-Jack-6200-Lb-Capacity-GJ-6200/dp/B000VNFYXO
Get four of these, problem solved.
Do yourself a favor and get a motorycyle lift. A damn good investment, I assure you. Makes cleaning and maintenance much,much easier. Especially cleaning and lubing the chain.
Having the bike lifted of the ground would be great for winter time storage, as well, as it will take pressure of the suspension and tires; allowing you to avoid getting flat spots on the tires from sitting for a long time.
Plus, bikes looks cool af on a lift.
[Edit] Just saw chip812's post. As he mentioned, you can skip the jack and stands and just get some ramps if you prefer. I have never used them though. Also, depending on how low your vehicle rides, you might not even need any lifting whatsoever to reach the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.
You will need a a jack stand(they come in pairs), such as these.
The emergency jack that came with your van for flat-tire repair will do for the lifting, but you should probably buy a regular floor jack, such as: this. Consult your van's manual to find out where the jack points are.
You can buy a catch-pan from your local auto-parts store. There are open-top ones, and then there are ones that seal with a lid, so that you can store the spent oil for a while before disposing of it. Up to you in which you prefer.
The auto-parts store will have a huge catalog next to the oil/air filters, which will tell you the type of filter from each manufacturer that fits your van. Not much difference between them, so go with what you're comfortable spending.
As for conventional vs. synthetic, I'm not terribly well-versed on the benefits. I've read that synthetic oil lasts longer before breaking down, compared to conventional oil. I know many sports cars require synthetic oil. If your van is a general commuter vehicle, then maybe save a few pennies and go conventional. Again, largely up to you. Brand doesn't matter terribly, as they're all pretty much safe/good for your particular vehicle.
Also note, use the containers that the new oil came in to store the old oil. The auto-parts store will have a recycling container in the back where they will let you dump it.
Here you go
Your wheel is probably not thick enough, these are worth the price.
I ended up using a friend's motorcycle jack, similar to this.
It worked out great, as we could strap it down using one of the arms of the jack to help keep it from wobbling and tipping around when pushing the new engine back under. The guide also suggests using a furniture dolly, which I imagine would work just as well, if not a bit better since the supports on it are probably a bit wider, helping to balance it better.
If it's really daily as you say, a set of these would be a great investment.
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Wheel-Dolly-Wide-Hoist/dp/B003W0F33O
Hopefully you don't live on a hill.
You really do want the swingarm to be unsupported to properly adjust the chain.
I recommend getting a motorcycle jack. It's basically a cradle that gets the wheels off the ground.
Here's an example of one from Amazon.
Kyle from SeaCoast is in this great video on adjusting the chain on a SSS Ducati. He really knows his stuff.
Ducati Single sided swingarm chain adjustment.
Here's Chris from California Cycleworks as well.
But yes, you can use a floor jack. I'd put a block of wood or something between the jack and the cases so you don't scratch anything, though. You might have some issues with the exhaust header but ideally you'll have the front chocked or on a stand and then put the floor jack under the motor to get the rear wheel off the ground. You don't need much height.
Very doable. Make sure you follow the chain adjustment procedure from the videos! You can chew up a chain and cause damage to your sprockets and possibly your cases if the chain ends up too tight or too loose.
I prefer ones with a safety lock. I read a story here about some guy who knocked the release bar and crushed himself.
http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382276522&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands
I've taken my 390 engine out like 5 times with a scissor lift from Amazon that was like $70 bucks, it's rated up to like 1000lbs or something
Edit: Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dV3PCbWV6FQBJ
Floor jack + tire skates = relocating his car to the very furthest parking space in the lot in less than 5 minutes.
I actually got this set . They go under the back and it keeps the whole thing pretty stable. I do like your idea more. It’s the one thing I feel like can definitely improve upon right now. One sharp movement or forget to chock the wheels and I’m rolling right off the stands I’ve got
I bought this a couple of months ago for a rear shock swap on my Road Glide and it worked perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196PAZ1S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Additional Notes:
I hope this is the right subreddit. Putting this first because it is the important part. I am looking for a sort of project car but one for someone that has no mechanic experience. I have an engineering degree, but have never worked with automotives. My current car is good enough to last at least til december so I am looking for a car that I can work on until then and eventually have it become my daily car. I want this to be a learning experience so by the end of it all I will be somewhat efficent at basic mechanic work as well as tuning, performance upgrades, etc. I have never owned a manual car but desire this so that I learn how to drive stick as well as they seem to have the most viability when talking about upgrades and working on them. I plan on using 3k USD on the inital purchase but if I find something for less then the remainder of the 3k will go straight back into the car being purchased. I also plan on spending between 300-600 USD a month on parts to gradually upgrade performance and eventually apperance. The idea is putting roughly 6-7k into a car and make it a learning experience instead of just purchasing something I wont want to work on. I also have a mechanic that can look at the car during the initial purchase but any links that will help with identifying problems especially for specific cars will be appreciated.
Can you do Minor/major work on your own vehicle:
I just purchased a the following as starter mechanics tools
And also a Ball Pein Hammer and Rubber Mallet
If you have any recommendations other than what I purchased, I can still return any of these items and purchase others. Any other items I might need let me know. I plan on getting more tools as I need them.
Location: USA, Texas, Rio Grande Valley Area
Price range: Max 3000 USD for inital purchase
New or used: Used
Must haves: Easy to work on; Cost-Performance Efficent aftermarket parts; Ability to Upgrade
Intended use: Project car for a couple months; Eventually Daily Use
Vehicles you've already considered:
I am open to suggestions but am more fond of light cars with better mpg
Is this your 1st vehicle: No, currently have a 99 Toyota Corolla LE with 287k miles purchased at 170k and I put on the rest. I just had regular oil changes and minor things fized like sparkplugs. It had problem with the starter 6 months ago but banging on it made it work with no problems since then. No aftermarket parts and only problems currently is the evap cannister that I havent fixed and paint restoration as the clearcoat is gone aa I was ignorant on washing and waxing regularly as I live in a hot climate. It also has some rust on the roof and around the doors starting the develope. The corolla is okay, but being an automatic I assume there isnt much performance upgrades available. I also have the ability to purchase a 2005 Ford Escape XLT that works fine and just had a new cpu, tires and air compressor installed and has no current problems besides being Ford red in color ha
Any help, opinions are greatly appreciated. If you would like to mentor me during this process as well, it would be cool to have someone in which I could ask question and get definite answers as no one in my immediate family or friends are car buffs.
I just ordered supplies from Amazon and would love feedback. I decided to go for a scissor jack, though that seems somewhat controversial in the DIY cider press world. The travel is amazing, they are light, cheap and I can operate it with a cordless drill.
Another big question is this 50 quart steamer basket. Cheap, but will it hold up to the strain? I guess the good news is that by going big now (12 gallons!), I can always downsize later.
I'm looking at mounting the disposal in a plastic tub, supported by a wood frame. I'm still working on the design (and will post here, with credit to you knockfer, when its done!).
Finally, instead of the very cool wood drainage platform you made, I'm opting for a simpler cutting board, and will drill a hole and attach a tube for drainage. Still figuring out that detail.
I'd welcome any thoughts about all this, and am so grateful for your inspiration! I'd never heard of using a garbage disposal as a chopper before. My wife is going to love this!
Its the 4X Rac mount.. I cant fabricate for beans so I bought this. Just bolts right on after some drilling.
I debated between ramps and jack stands for my C. I ended up getting these jack stands for $16 (now $20). They're cheaper than ramps, easier to use (no worry of driving up/off of the ramps) and I can rotate the tires while changing the oil, too. The V is about 3,300 lb, so the 2 ton jacks should be fine, but the 3 ton ones are only $26 if it makes you feel better.
I was given this mount in a friend group's secret santa for jeepers. I trust this mount for emergencies (tested it before by accident). Sits slightly below the top of the rear bench too so that's a good feeling.
Tire iron kit,
Bead buddy (helps when taking the tire off), Lift (this has worked well for my KLR, combine with a couple of jack stands for more stability)
Other things that help: rubber mallet, needle nose pliers, SERVICE MANUAL, torque wrenches.
I actually think this is a great idea. Maybe something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017T7WHW
You just need a set of these to fix problems like this.
http://amzn.com/B003W0F33O