Best video projectors & accessories according to redditors

Hey, I do theater lighting so I think I can help, though I'm not the best photographer.


Gel is pretty easy to get your hands on. Look on Google for a Theatrical lighting company in your area, any one that rents gear should sell gel, it goes for about $6 for a 2' by 3' sheet, most of which can be reused. Be careful putting it to close to particularly hot light because it can melt. Get a Swatch book while you're there to see all the ones they sell, Rosco and Lee are the leading brands. If you're in the Ann Arbor, Pittsburgh or Chicago area you can have some of mine, I've got too much.


In terms of lighting equipment, you don't need to spend much. I've lit entire (extremely low budget) musicals with lights from the hardware store. These lights are cheap and directional and you can tape gel right over it: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Zone-Clamp-Light-PZ-300/dp/B000KKLPOU


To control intensity with these lights you can either buy portable dimmers which aren't too expensive, use ND filters (another kind of gel) or different wattage lamps (light bulbs). They each have strengths and weaknesses but I wouldn't worry about it yet, just play with whatever is cheapest.


LEDs are nice because you can change color, but you don't need expensive ones. I believe Amazon sells some for cheap with RGB control, but for faces I would stick with incandescent light, tends to make the actress look better.


In terms of the photos, they look great. One thing I try to do is light the subject and the background separately. An amber model on a blue background really pops. Lighting the background or actor from two different angles with different colors also leads to a nice effect, you seem to have figured this out, but keep playing with it and try doing it with different lights for the subject and background.


Anyway, keep it up and let me know if you have anymore questions.

I might also recommend an air-mouse, or something similar. I use one for my HTPC and it's fabulous

This already exists, and it's very useful for people who get asked lots of questions in open offices. Scott Hanselman uses it in his home office.

This will do :) Luxja Carrying Bag for DR.J Mini Projector, Portable Case for Mini Projector and Accessories (Fits Most Major Mini Projectors), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1NG1YR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m3S5CbX6AERJZ

https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY

Something like that

I use yatse when I stream media to my tablet and when I have my tablet in my hand already.
For guests and pstvl I use This


It controls my android device running xbmc, my lg sound bar for volume, and turns my vizio tv on and off. Has a few quirks but I love it. And it looks and acts like a typical remote so conversion to a htpc has been easier.

Generally, I go with if you have something available already is the best, not having to buy something new is good, but low power consumption is a good feature, you may end up spending less overall with a lower power device than say an old desktop. It also depends on if you want to do anything else through it as well. I have NUC and an x220 that get used for home theatre (samba share), but both can also be an emulator and game system for lower spec games, and the laptop is, well, also a laptop. I don't have any issues using file folder to browse (choose large or extra large icons), but I'm meticulous with my file organization and really like the controller I got for it. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZ7SR47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)The other plus for a PC is having full browser capability for web videos and running a decent ad blocker for stuff like youtube.

the idea with kodi (XBMC has been renamed) is that the user interface allows for opening those files via remote (another example), in a way that is easy to do from the couch. Hence a high wife acceptance factor. And since Kodi can be installed on a cheap android stick, apps can sit alongside your PC's saved content. example

Some other UI's

I bought this about a year ago. Working good. BenQ 5J.J7L05.001 Replacement Lamp for W1070/ W1080ST Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4G8ALK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bWqAybYVP6H1P

I got one of these Wireless Keyboard Mouse for my PlexPi. Works GREAT! It's got normal remote keys, keyboard keys, AND it's a gyro mouse ala wiimote almost.

Edit: Two additional things. It's RF so you don't need line of site like FLiRC and it costs about the same.

This is a true OEM Osram replacement, and it’s what I’m currently using.

AWO 5J.J7L05.001 5J.J9H05.001 5J.J6E05.001 Premium Projector Bare Lamp Bulb Replacement For BenQ W1070 W1080ST HT1075 HT1085ST W1070+ W1080ST+ i700 W1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5FNC78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_QeeVXq3365Afg

Just buy this lamp and not the housing. Install it wearing rubber gloves so you don’t leave any oils on the bulb and it will be fine.

I actually just got this from Amazon on Wednesday, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K768DHY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00K768DHY&linkCode=as2&tag=rutgpacal-20&linkId=75NXKNY6KJIO3TPA . It works pretty decent on the ADT-1 except for the airmouse not being able to be fully disabled (or I haven't figured a way to do it). It seems that when it gets enabled and your on Leanback you have to disable it (just pressing the button).

Nonetheless it almost fits all your criteria.

My first recommendation is do not program the POWER button on the remote (if you leave it unprogrammed it can actually put your ADT-1 to sleep and wake [unfortunately I programmed it and now I cannot seem to get it to do that for the ADT-1]).

Secondly, I'd use the bottom 4 bottoms to control the TV usage. I programmed the bottom RED Button to turn TV on/off (via IR learning on the remote). Then I used the Blue and Yellow for Volume Control (again via IR Learning). I programmed the Blue to just change the input on my TV.

Ironically I think there is some sort of MIC on the device, but it does not seem to do anything (at least not on the ADT-1. I tried manually going to VOICE talking while it was listening and nothing.

It obviously has a keyboard, it is just fine for it's size.

I do use the number pad in the front with the HDHomerun TV input and that works too to change the channels!

Also if you use a keyboard remapper (I used https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=innerlife.keyboard.multilanguagekeymapredefiner) you can program a few of the keys to load certain applications. For example the little icon with the movie clapperboard actually with load up Google Music. So I decided to program a few of the buttons (the 4 squares) to load the tvinput, so it goes directly to that. I also programed the magnifying glass (to load Kodi). I say you can do this as some of the buttons will not do anything on ATV, so it's nice to make a few shortcuts to frequently used applications.

So overall I think it is actually a great choice for the ADT-1. I just wish that A) I didn't program that power button on the top to IR since it was nice to actually make the ADT-1 go to sleep (plus when I long pressed it, I had the option to actually shutdown). B) The Air mouse not being able to be permanently disabled (This being the biggest grippe).

I just bought this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K768DHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works out of the box and you can program (Infrared) the power button at the top and the four colored ones at the bottom. The keyboard in the back is OK. The mouse is a bit touchy... everything else works out of the box.

Miniature photography is one of my favorite hobbies, for the best results I suggest spending the money on a good light box with diffused sides and top such as this . After that got to lowes/home depo/ harware store get a few clamp lamps and some day light bulbs for them. Put one lamp over the top and one on each side. (I put mine at a 45 degree angle so half goes to the sides and half to the front of the box.) So for $70 bucks max you will have a perfect set up for shooting minis, just remember to do things like focus stacking to get fully focused shots. In my flikr pool is examples of this, almost 90% of the stuff here is shot in a light box with this setup.

• You barely list Kodi because of 3rd party pirate addons, despite it having most of of your requests for Roku already implemented. DTS-passthru, Passworded tv and addons and able to program remotes. The library is extremely robust and can handle searching your media in a bunch of different ways including by network. The Bluetooth headphones is reliant on you STB but kodi can deal with it. As a bonus with the yatse app you can cast youtube and other online services to the Kodi install as long as there is a Kodi addon for that service.
  
  
• Complaining about the Firestick you knew it was WiFi at time of purchase so you can't knock it for that. Also it sounds like you have some networking gear issues if it is truly 3ft away.
  
  
• You can build a HTPC and a few tools on the back end to get your all in one DVR box(https://tvheadend.org/).
  
  
• You can build a HTPC or buy something like the Wetek play for OTA and DVR
  
  
• Volume control is trickier but if you get a CEC enabled HTPC or Set top box you can just use your TV remote. The simpler choice would be just turn the TV all the way up and use the STB remote for volume. There are other Devices like flirc or Harmony remotes that can also solve this.
  
  
• CEC can handle turning the TV on and off. Harmony remotes can also handle this easily.
  
  
• Kodi again can solve your file type problems(http://kodi.wiki/view/Features_and_supported_formats).
  
  
• KODI, Just because 3rd parties have enabled streaming pirated content shouldn't be held against a solid Home Theater software.
  
  
• Keyboards Logitech makes the K400 usb keyboard that will work with HTPCs and some STBs. Also voice search on the Shield TV is pretty solid.
  
  
• Wifi based remotes are nice, if you like them just find a STB that supports them.
  
  In short a solidly built HTPC can fix almost all of your gripes. Also you should really look at kodi again.
  
  >Ok, so you mention my lack of paragraph and sentence structure (although I am hesitant to admit that you are very right) and also not mentioning a universal remote (which I don't want to buy [I wanna say the cheapest harmony is around 80$], rather I want a all in one solution) what are areas you find me to be confused or ill informed?
  
  There are plenty of perfectly capable remotes for much less the $80.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/LYNEC-Wireless-Keyboard-Infrared-Learning/dp/B00U78EKM4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459302520&sr=1-3&keywords=HTPC+remote
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459302520&sr=1-6&keywords=HTPC+remote
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459302520&sr=1-2&keywords=HTPC+remote
  

http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-5J-J7L05-001-Replacement-W1080ST-Projector/dp/B00B4G8ALK

This one might interest you.
Aerb 2.4G Mini Wireless Keyboard Mouse Multifunctional W Infrared Remote Learning, 3-Gyro and 3-Gsensor, Air Control
https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486071199&sr=1-2&keywords=Aerb+2.4G+Mini+Wireless+Keyboard

How about something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Multifunction-Wireless-Keyboard-Infrared/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=pd_sim_e_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0S7CQKVXS3KBG8QYD2Z8

This would let you control your PC as well as the TV in a single control.

Also with IR blasters, you can allways hide the bulky box and use IR externders to control the TV. It would be a small little cable that would do it.
http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitter-Repeater/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1426468760&sr=8-8&keywords=Ir+extender+cable

I don't know if this will work with TV, This is more for talking to IR printers and Modems. But you maybe able to hack something together to control a TV with this.
http://www.amazon.com/IrDA-USB-2-0-Adapter-Windows/dp/B004GED7SI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Also some UPS have a power saving features that will cut power to the monitor (Or TV in this case) when the computer is shutdown/sleeping. If you can get your TV to auto turn on when it has power that would work.

https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY

I use this and it's perfect for me. I remapped the home button to launch Kodi. From there I can launch Netflix or steam or anything.

I think this bulb would fit if you are looking for just the bulb.

Osram P-VIP 245/0.8 E54 Original Projector Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRQ1H3N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gu9QCb042QDX6

Why not get get an all in one like the one I use or this one maybe this is more to your liking. A couple more essentially identical and awkward options are this one and this one. There's more choices too if you didn't like those, take this one for example or if you just want to have some fun (doesn't have keyboard, consider it an honorable mention). These are links to universal remotes with a keyboard on the back. Some have trackpads like those found on laptops, while some use an "air mouse" (think Wii control). Some use regular batteries (AA/AAA) while others use built in rechargeable batteries.

About a year ago I started looking around for a way to control my TV and HTPC with one remote. I originally wanted to go with a FLIRC paired with a Harmony control to use so that I could use WMC (with Youtube, Hulu+, Netflix and Plex "plugins"). Ultimately I decided against it due to the lack of a keyboard. After looking around I stumbled upon these. I went with the Rii due to the form factor and the WAF.

--Below is my review of the "Rii mini i13 4 in 1 Wireless Multmedia Air Fly Mouse Keyboard (Black)"--

I am mostly pleased with this setup but there are a few kinks, most notably the battery. At first it was great, no batteries to swap out and it held a charge for about a month before it was time to recharge. But now, a year later, I have to recharge it every couple days. It still works fine but I don't know if I should buy another one, try to replace the battery when it does die, or try something different. There is no way EASY way to open it, and honestly I don't think it could withstand to many battery swaps since it's made of this flimsy plastic. Truly think I'm lucky to have had it as long as I have.

Another thing is that the buttons themselves feel indistinguishable from one another which makes night time use/viewing a bit difficult, wish there was a backlight. I'd also like to mention that I have an issue with the mouse.

As mentioned earlier the mouse is similar to using a Wii, with one difference the Wii pointer only goes to where you aim the control. This mouse works with relative motion to move the cursor. Imagine you just scrolled the cursor to the far right corner of your monitor, you can keep moving your mouse further right but the cursor won't move any further. That means if you did a 180° then you'd still be controlling the mouse even though you are now facing the wall. This makes navigation a little frustrating. Add to that the mouse's sensitivity mixed with no stabilization makes clicking and dragging a chore. Never realized I had a shake in my hands until I held this remote. I remedied this by simply disabling the mouse in Windows. I realized I wasn't using it so I disabled it.

The last thing I had issues with was that there is no real concrete instruction manual. Just some small quick start guide. After spending some time with it, I rather enjoyed experience.

Sure, or you can use clamp lights as well. They sell them at hardware stores. However both lights are impossible to focus (flood/spot) and difficult to shape. If you buy these lights you'd definitely also want some light-shaping materials to make them usable, like bounces, diffusion (this is a good kit, but foamcore is widely available too as a bounce) black wrap, and gels for color correction. Some solid flags with C-stands would also be a very useful investment but if that's outside your budget you might have to improvise. I'd also get some dimmers for those.

This Rocket Jump Film School video on harnessing sunlight might be immensely helpful to you. All you really need are a little planning, some foamcore, and a white bedsheet, and you can get all kinds of lighting effects out of plain old sunlight. I've also seen a lot of people recommend clamp lights, which should be readily available at your local hardware store. Those bedsheets and foamcore boards will be useful with these lights too.

Backlit
Not backlit

I've tried a few and this is my favorite for my HTPC/RPi.

I picked up an cheap Air Mouse with Keyboard support. Works fine with Plex, or any other application on my HTPC.

http://amzn.com/B00K768DHY

I have this for my wife to use. Very easy to use with simple button choices that she can understan. Not too my functionality but still nice for everyday use.

1. No major problems with Kodi/Kodibuntu. You will have to use the command line to update to the latest Kodi build as it ships with 15 I think. Simple "apt-get update", "apt-get upgrade", and "apt-get dist-upgrade" as sudo will get everything up to date.
   
2. AMD Sempron 3850 Kabini worked just fine for Kodibuntu for me. Don't see why yours would be any worse.
   
3. This (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K768DHY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is the remote I use. Has a gyro mouse and works very well for me. The only problem with mine is that when using the keyboard it does not work correctly.
   
   The only feedback I would have besides that is do you have a way to run ethernet? Wireless is not ideal for an HTPC unless you have a good connection(little interference).
   
   Also to your point of Steam games: if you have a gaming PC you can always use Steam In-Home Streaming to play them. Steam has a Linux client and you can definitely install it on Kodibuntu.

I use this one for my shield: https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468592272&sr=8-2&keywords=minix+a2 (it runs on two AAA batteries and has IR learning).

It's not perfect. Almost everything works out of the box except for the back button, which apparently is read as a right mouse click instead. The ESC key on the back sort of works as a back button but its wonkey. I had to download a key remapping app to make the ESC key the back button. The keyboard is also super wonky but maybe I just got a bad one. In my case, it will either work perfectly fine, or the keys are suddenly remapped to something ridiculous (the r key becomes a volume key or the i key becomes the back button or something stupid like that). The air mouse works extremely well and is great if you plan on side loading apps.

Again, I think I may have just gotten a defective one because the keyboard issue I mentioned also happened on an mxiii box I used to have (the back button worked perfectly fine on that though). I might look into some of the other ones mentioned in this thread as a replacement.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Zone-Clamp-Light-PZ-300/dp/B000KKLPOU clamp light i use, i think i got it at Marc's for 4$
http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-Lighting-89094-GE-89094-20-Watt-Energy-Smart-Daylight-CFL-Light-Bulb/21153816
not that exact bulb, but make sure its 6500k...daylight. I grow chaeto and mangroves like no other. Replace the bulb once a year

I have a 1070. I ordered this bulb from Amazon. I haven't compared it yet to see it it's the exact same since my current one works fine still. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M0ETHG2/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2451SW0THLMAL&colid=UQSSJ71XYUUB

It's a German company and probably not selling outside of Europe. It was traditional brand back in the tube days one could say but they are now just a nameless reseller that uses other companies tech.

Mine is not the best set in the world (the store I bought it had a time limited no cost credit program) but I managed to get some great picture quality out of it. Recalibrating using at least test pictures is a must though.

But on your end I would seek help at a dedicated place for home cinema topics judge as the AVS-Forum. Actually they have a thread for recommendations: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1230050/the-help-me-choose-an-lcd-thread

Some personal tips: Don't listen to store reps, because 9 out of ten times they don't know jack shit and only try to sell you something. If you buy locally make your mind up what you want before you go in the store and stick to it.

And if you concerned about black levels consider placing a light source behind your tv. I got fairly deep blacks with no reflections on my set by using a LED backlight kit like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Glow-Back-Backlighting-Kit-NEW/dp/B00FBQ4K2M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397594329&sr=8-3&keywords=led+backlight+tv

In a dark room, that really makes a huge difference. And it's is really atmospheric.

Hey I was in the exact same situation about 2 months ago!

I replaced my Benq W1070 bulb with this one from amazon

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J5FNC78/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's $83 with 180day warranty.

I was very tempted to do a 4k upgrade as well.. but it seems like you really need to get almost to $2k range to get good picture and faux 4k.. there are cheaper ones in teh lower $1000's, but I don't know they just didn't seem to be even as good as the w1070 in some ways aside from the 4k aspect.

Personally I would say if you really don't care that much about the 4k yet.. do a cheap sub-$100 lamp with a basic warranty.

I use a URC-WR7 (http://www.universalremote.com/product_details.php?id=63&s=diy&c=remotes&p=URC-WR7), basically a very nice programmable IR remote. It's a bit bulky, but very versatile.

I also have a Logitech K400 keyboard, but it's a bit annoying. My PC is a bit further and in a cabinet, so the keyboard has issues connecting.

I recently got an air mouse (MX3/generic, http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Multifunction-Wireless-Keyboard-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY). I like it the most so far; the keys are very clicky, it's a very good size, it has a few programmable R buttons, it has a keyboard, the air mouse is very good. The only thing I don't like is that you switch from remote-mode to air-mouse-mode, and the switching button doesn't "take" unless you hold it down for a few seconds to lock it in. This is my favorite so far. Highly recommended, and very cheap to boot.

Oh yeah, I also have a Rii. It hasn't been very reliable for me, although when it works it's good. It's cumbersome as a "remote" though.

I used one of those for my android tv box. The track pad is terrible. I find an air mouse to be a much better option

Aerb 2.4G Mini Wireless Keyboard Mouse Multifunctional W Infrared Remote Learning & [3-Gyro + 3-Gsensor] Air Control for Android Smart TV Box G Box HTPC Mini PC Windows iOS MAC Linux PS3 Xbox 360 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_QR.Nwb8N8FTBC

This is the remote I use for my htpc. It's much more user-friendly (and wife-approved) than a standard keyboard and mouse. I have to do a little bit of scripting using autohotkey to make the more advanced stuff work with it, but out of the box, it's fantastic for Kodi. It even has an air mouse and keyboard built in when you need it

This still probably won't beat your current solution, but check out this remote. Got it today and it's my favorite HTPC peripheral so far. Can do basic mouse gestures fairly easily and has 5 buttons to map to any other IR remote function.

I've got this remote hooked up to the box. So maybe these remote keys aren't the "correct" keys?
The OK/select button pauses or stops whatever I'm watching. .

It depends on the device really. I have this air mouse + keyboard remove, which works over a small receiver. I believe it is wireless, not IR. Minus Hulu, those sites work in the SteamOS browser. However, if you still want an "app" like experience. You can run "web apps" in Chrome's kiosk mode. I have a section of my SteamOS-Tools project for this, call web apps. For that remote, basic functions work fine. I've been trying to add hardware, and encourage folks to do so, under the Valve github wiki

I know a lot of this isn't "native," but it is what it is for now.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Pentium G4400 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor | $49.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B250I PRO Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $69.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $57.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $83.88 @ OutletPC
Case | Cooler Master - Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case | $38.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA - BV 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $12.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $333.70
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $313.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-31 16:59 EDT-0400 |

Would also suggest to consider connecting it to a TV with a $5-10 wireless mouse, this keyboard - https://www.amazon.com/JETech-Wireless-Keyboard-Windows-Vista/dp/B0173QNVT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504212510&sr=8-1&keywords=jetech+keyboard - and maybe this keyboard/mouse remote (I own this, it's awesome) - https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504212588&sr=1-1&keywords=pc+remote . Bigger screen, maybe a little less intimidating if they're funny like that about technology, and the remote might come more natural to them. Keyboard is only 27cm so less than a ruler, and about 5mm thick (apart the power bar at the top which is maybe 2cm thick) so it and the mouse are really, really easy to tuck away when not in use and take up no room at all even when being used. Mice also work fine either on the arm of the sofa or even the leg of your jeans.

(then go get a 1050 TI, a copy of DOOM, and a wireless gamepad for them for Christmas and record the results for us :D )

I have a WDTV Live Plus that I use with SMB and the only time I experience dropped frames or whatever is when my network can't handle the bandwidth. I recently upgraded the weak spot in my network (an old powerline ethernet connection upgraded to the newer faster version) and haven't had any problems since. Try connecting your WDTV Live Plus directly (or as close as possible with just a switch between) to your PC and see if you have problems then.

My eventual upgrade path is either to my Ouya with XBMC installed, or probably maybe the Amazon Fire TV with XBMC/Kodi sideloaded. I also need ethernet because I just don't get the bandwidth I need with my current Wifi setup, but the powerline ethernet makes that simple where I live.

I already have a remote for my Ouya that works great with XBMC (http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Multifunction-Wireless-Keyboard-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) and the Fire TV comes with a remote too (I don't have a Fire TV yet but I do have a Fire TV Stick, but I wouldn't want to use that personally because it's wifi only).

If you ever land on a solution, I would love it if you shared it with me as we're on very similar upgrade timelines!

the PS3 and 360 both had blackberry keyboard style attachments. They could definitely use a remote like that for good netflix searching. Surprisingly nothing official for the PS4, but I did find this which should supposedly work.

I bought it and returned it. The air mouse function turns off every time you press a button. Fine if you only use xbmc but I wanted to browse the internet with it. I ended up getting this one and it works great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K768DHY

Takes some time to set up but once it's working it's good. I have the number keys set to shortcuts like full screen/tab.

The Logitech k400 is still my go-to. I use the remote if I feel lazy and want to use one hand.

I just got this one and it works great out of the box, maybe a little more remote than what you're looking for though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K768DHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aerb 2.4G Mini Wireless Keyboard / Mouse / Remote control

Just changed a 7000 hour bulb from amazon 65 bucks purchased another one in my 1070. The OEM bulb lasted just over 2k hours? no thanks.

I think putting them on a uninterruptible power supply makes the bulbs last a lot longer. I got one big enough to let me shut down my projector correctly when the power goes out. It really seems to fuck with projectors if the power shuts down or browns out on them, even a little bit.

So who cares if its not oem if it works perfectly? The bulbs get dim after about 5k hours. at 65 bucks for the whole module? it takes about a minute to change the bulb order two and have one waiting.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4G8ALK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought two off Amazon. I assumed they were the right one as they were compatible. I don't didn't know exactly where I should get one and saw on Amazon and got it. They were the same ones that on the InFocus website had SP-LAMP-038. I've yet to try the other lamp i got. They were throwing away the projector and it seemed fine except needed new lamp, maybe something else wrong with it? As I said i tried changing contrast and brightness, etc. but more I tried the worse it got in terms I could see the dark scenes but everything else too bright. Now I don't mess with these types of settings or whatnot on anything so I may not be doing it right.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WVXY73K/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The manual doesn't have the combination " green power , red lamp " tho... I agree with you about the lamp life but I think I'll buy a cheap one just to be sure this is not some other problem!


Do you have any link or video that explains how to clean the fans ? And if the problem was the fans wouldn't the "TEMP" led turn red?

Thanks!

Edit : whats your opinion about this one https://www.amazon.es/dp/B01J5FNC78/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_azBiDbXJNX8DD

Any of the remotes that say they are compatible with Android should work. The Lync in your link above has my favorite keyboard, and unlike OSMC the back button works correctly on the Mi Box. I would recommend this over the one you linked (same remote diffrent branding) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JFXU0PW/ref=twister_B01JFXTSCI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 The blue on black alt keys are impossible to read in anything but daylight. I don't know why more of them don't use bluetooth, but you can always get a USB hub (not sure if compatible)

I've had my eye on this for a while. I have no idea how good it is, but if you buy one, please let me know what you think of it. Looks like it would be good for the simplicity of a media remote, but also useful for the versatility of a mouse and keyboard when needed. Plus the ir can be programmed to operate your TV too. Sorry, I know this is pretty much the opposite of what you're asking. I'm sure you already know, but there are apps for basically all devices that work as a remote. It's what I usually use.

I was planning on using this amplifier in a portable stereo. I have been looking into other options, as I am really unsure of the quality of the amp. I just liked that it had bluetooth built in and had a good looking front end.

>And they do not produce enough light to be of use.

I disagree here. I use a pair of clamp lights like these with daylight CFLs for various things:

• Background lights
  
• Tabletop photography
  
• Cheap rim lights
  
  I wouldn't imagine using them as your only or main source of light, however with quality daylight CFL bulbs, you've got some pretty handy lights. Kind of how some working pros use torches(UK)/flashlights(US) in some situations to help light things.

hows the mouse function on ipazz ? I bought this yesterday and its a piece of crap to say the least. I just need something compact with a kayboard and ability to click forward and backward while watching a movie instead forwarding and reversing like film days.

I just had this happen.

It's only the bulb failing.

They cost like $50 on Amazon.

Takes less time to change than a diaper.

1. Just wiki passive speakers, active speakers, amplifiers, pre amplifiers, integrated amplifiers, receivers. Howstuffworks.com is good too.
   
   
2. Amp 1 or Amp 2 with Speaker 1 or Speaker 2?
   
   
3. http://i.imgur.com/3N2kZA9.jpg Options/Internal Filters - Audio Decoder

This seems to be the exact same thing at $80. Can anyone confirm that this looks alright?

https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-SP-8VH01GC01-P-VIP-Projector-Accessory/dp/B00J2QTODM?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

The trick is getting good cheap 3rd party bulbs. I have an Epson 8350 and can get bulbs for $22.

I'm looking forward to 4K though.

This thing is pretty good for what it is. It would be nice if it had foldable legs to make it more comfortable for the rare occasions you have to type a lot with it.

I prefer my gyro remote for HTPC use, overall.

https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1466714107&sr=8-4&keywords=mouse+remote

Sounds like getting another set top box from Comcast would be the best option. Especially if you are wanting to access stuff on your DVR with fast forwarding being a major feature.

You could also look into a streaming box like a Roku, FireTV, or Android TV product. They would need to have an Xfinity app, but fast-forwarding might be tricky without support for a Harmony remote. I've seen $16 remotes on Amazon so maybe those would work. As far as those remotes working with a Chromebox, I'm not sure. It'd be the Chrome browser that would have to accept the inputs, and I'm not sure on whether or not that's possible.

Ever tried anything like this? Seems like it wouldn't require any extra components. Just add the driver and go.

Any markings on the housing except the RM737 >PPS< marking?

Edit: It's a lamp for a Mitsubishi DLP TV

I bought this one and I'm happy with it.

You could go cheaper. This one can do all the way up to UXGA resolution and has an hdmi port.

If the specs confuse you here's a dictionary for the terms.

Check out some other brands too. Have fun researching.

have you looked into air mice like https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY it has a few keys that can be IR and the rest act like a keyboard and the mouse portion can control the cursor like a wii mote or deactivated. I use mine for kodi on my raspberry pi and I have it programmed to turn the tv on/off and volume +/- and change inputs.

I assume MD is minidisk, especially as it’s a Sony. A quick google search for the manual, and then the remote model number, and amazon has a replacement. The first review even says he could access the MD/aux function. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-CMT-NE3-TeKswamp-Remote-Control/dp/B072HGNRGQ

I ordered this
Kingoo High Quality Replacement Lamp For EPSON PowerLite Pro G5550 PowerLite Pro G5550NL V13H010L62 PowerLite 4100 PowerLite Pro G5450WUNL PowerLite Pro G5450WU Lamp Projectors Lamp Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GLPYAQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8EJmzb8KTRNGP

How fucked am I? Should I cancel it? What would be the percent difference?

I bought a boxee box for about $40 (shipping included in the price) only problem is you need to buy a usb remote. I would also recommend a USB 3.0 32 GB flash drive. All you have to do is root it and put the xbmc files on the USB flash drive.

Boxee Box on eBay

USB Flash Drive I bought

USB Remote

It comes out to be about $80. YOu can definitely find a cheaper remoe but I strongly recommend this one because it best resembles the boxee remote.

If you choose the boxee here is the rooting guide. It is really easy execute.

Tutorial for Root

XBMC Tutorial I recommend you run it off of the USB if you like the Boxee OS and/or have netflix.

EDIT: Forgot to add that it has been running perfectly smooth for me. And the design of the boxee is a bit different and I like the way it sits on the tv stand.

A little googling shows you can obtain one for about half the price... buyer beware, it says "without housing" so I have no idea if that makes life difficult to replace it or if it's relatively simple.

http://www.amazon.com/Projector-Replacement-SP-M250S-BP47-00059A-BP47-00058A/dp/B00EY9OEKK

If the specs of the new projector are wildly better than yours, then yeah a new one might be worthwhile. But really it's about what fits your budget - more internet searching/ebay would be your friend before making a final decision.

And yes, refurbished means it must meet the manufacturer's initial criteria for sale - so it should have a brand new bulb.

The reason I needed to use a usb dongle is because I am buying an air remote mouse(https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/) and it has its own bluetooth dongle to work.

That is nice, I am also planning to do the same because I have Buffalo Snes USB controller. I am planning to install retroarch in it :)
So will a USB hub like this suffice?(https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/)

And also I have one last question. Is it normal to lag on 60fps videos on Youtube? I thought this box is strong enough to handle 4k 60 fps o.o

Is this the same remote: http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=pd_sim_504_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=51etMvK19pL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0N5EWJW7V4AYEJCH2W5R

This might be a good choice for an HTPC, but I almost feel like I type so infrequently that I'd be better off with something like this, which is smaller and has a remote built-in.