Best video projectors according to redditors
We found 1,547 Reddit comments discussing the best video projectors. We ranked the 469 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,547 Reddit comments discussing the best video projectors. We ranked the 469 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
A link to buy, for
those interestedliterally everyone who watches the video.Warning: redonkulously expensive. Don't get your hopes up.
https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN
or make one yourself
This won't kill your budget, and it's not the easiest in the world to use. But it works very well. https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN
This being by fifth reply to this thread, I sound like a shill. But I've seen these and used these and created videos for them, and they literally do look better in person than any video I've seen online.
I want you all to believe. BELIEVE!
I used a pocket sized projector
Edit: like this
I have an older projector, no where near as nice as the one in the image, it's an Acer H5380BD 720p. Refresh rate is 60hz. It gets the job done nicely for movies and games.
Don't waste your money, make sure you test which keycaps you prefer first! test kit
I just bought an Optoma GT1080 for my gaming/home theatre PC... the thing is bloody amazing, it is "short throw" so will project 100" at 3.5 feet away from the wall and 308" at 12 feet. That's about 13'7" high and 21'9" long. Apparently focus dips after that but at night (for bulb strength) with big, clear letters you might be able to get up to about 18 x 27ft or thereabouts still quite visible.
https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-GT1080-1080p-Gaming-Projector/dp/B00M9D4CAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495562559&sr=8-1&keywords=gt1080
I have the same projector. $729 is a steal. The color quality is seriously impressive and it's very bright so we use it instead of our old 55" Plasma TV. It doesn't look washed out like classroom projectors at all, it's an insanely crisp clean image. Better than the plasma. It's also DLP chip so it looks very similar to movie theater quality. There is no way I am ever going back to flatscreen TV's after owning this projector.
Look at the reviews on amazon.
As someone who stays in a hotel 4 nights a week, I gave up on relying on the hotel TVs from having the ability to utilize an open hdmi port and got myself a nebula projector and tripod.
It’s about the size of a coke can and runs android tv os so I’ve got Netflix, Hulu, dtvNow etc. It also supports airplay and what ever android calls it’s version. I use it as a second monitor when I work from the hotel.
I also picked up s micro router for those hotels who have Ethernet in the room. No more signing into 10 diff devices, and now airplay works.
I’ll edit later with links.
Edit:
Nebula Capsule, by Anker, Smart Portable Wi-Fi Mini Projector, 100 ANSI lm High-Contrast Pocket Cinema, DLP, 360° Speaker, 100" Picture, Android 7.1, 4-Hour Video Playtime, and App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q3GBJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tAWyCbRG7E5FH
Projectors aren't usually made for gaming, and there are a number of reasons most people choose not to. Refresh rate is one of them, though probably the least common. I would say responce time, resolution, and maintenance are the bigger factors.
For example, like in this picture, you're playing Titanfall 2 on console. Titanfall 2 is an EXTREMELY fast paced game, so every frame counts. Luckily, Respawn is actually quite smart, and they've managed to dynamically change the resolution of the game while playing so consoles can keep it at a solid 60 FPS. If your game is running at 60 frames per second, each frame takes up 16.67 milliseconds. In Eurogamer's 2009 tests, they found that the point where most people felt lag became detrimental was 166 milliseconds, or ten frames, of total lag on a 60 FPS signal.
Almost everything will add lag. Most things are negligable and it'll never see the (perceptual) light of day, but you have to take into account input lag, proccessing lag, and display lag. If these games have a minimum lag of 100 ms for processing, which I feel is reasonable, your projector needs to add less than 66 ms to the overall response time. Now, the Epson PowerLite 8350 has an average display lag of just under 20 ms, so these times are very possible (though about 2x longer than a TV and 4x longer than a monitor, but that's unimportant) and this is the fastest I could find. Most other projectors I could find the stats for are anywhere between 40 ms and 80 ms, so you're just about on the border.
The BIGGEST factor, I think, is maintenance. Going back to that projector I linked, the Epson PowerLite 8350, replacing the lamps for those cost $100 each. Most last around 2000-5000 hours on average, which would mean almost $200 or $300 a year on top of the cost of initially buying the projector, as opposed to a 55" LED UltraHD HDR TV which is slightly more expensive, but with no maintenence cost.
That's not to say it largely isn't possible, there are many projectors that are perfectly fine for gaming if you're willing to pay the maintenence, and it's deffinetely a pro that you're able to use an entire wall if you wish (think movie theater) but for most people it's more of a novelty and not a permanent change. Unless you just already have a projector around, haha.
I hope that all made sense.
---
TL;DR
I did buy a portable projector but imma use it more for a personal turndown tent.
GoT is on Sunday. Just live out Coachella's last night, and watch it at a civilized location on Monday night.
I don't make that much money, I just know how to spend wisely and I don't have kids so I have more disposable income than some people. Like I said, it was like $1200 back in 2014. The screen cost around $100 to make and the mount was another $100 or so. So roughly $1400 for the video part of this setup. I vaguely remember the audio system was around $600 altogether cuz I found a crazy deal on the speakers and then later found a crazy deal on a receiver, so around $2000 for the whole thing.
I'm planning on eventually upgrading to 4K (this setup is 1080P only), but projectors that do HDR & 4K are still WAYYYYY too expensive. Because it's an old model now, you can find a W1070 for like $600. Up until like 5 years ago this wasn't really do-able unless you were willing to settle for 720P or spend like $3000+, but there are now a bunch of nice options if you're looking for a 1080P projector in the $600 to $1200 range. That may seem like a lot of money if you haven't gone TV shopping before, but that's right in line with what you'll see shopping for pretty much anything over 50" that isn't a garbage house brand. Main difference is the screen is "Whatever you can fit in the room" as opposed to 65".
Why that one instead of This .
I currently have an Optoma HD20 its a little old but great.
$250 AV Receiver Denon 720 (refurb w/ltd warranty, has HDCP 2.2 Dolby Atmos)
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs720w/denon-avr-s720w-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html
$90 Micca MB42X Bookshelves PAIR for Front
$90 Micca MB42X Bookshelves PAIR for Surround
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2
$70 Micca MB42X-C Center Channel
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00HHFBEK6
$42 Micca M8C In-ceiling speakers EACH (for x.x.2 atmos)
$42 Micca M8C In-ceiling speakers EACH (for x.x.2 atmos)
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-M-8C-Ceiling-Speaker-Pivoting/dp/B002YPS6T6
$200 BIC America F12 12" Sub
https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M
$550 Projector Optoma 142X (cnet.com "Best Picture for the Money" 2018)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQCF6R6
$205 Elite Manual 120" Projector Screen
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OLO59EI
TOTAL: $1550
You will also want a universal remote (Logitech Harmony recommended), speaker wire / banana plugs, stands / mounts, HDMI + subwoofer cable. So with this stuff as well you're over budget, but you could grab everything except the sub and add that later, for example.
EDIT: found the projector recommendation here, with more research you might be able to find better (same for the screen):
https://www.cnet.com/topics/tvs/best-tvs/projectors/
Projector amazon: optima hd142x $589,https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474033012&sr=8-1&keywords=optima+hd142x
screen amazon: Carl's blackout cloth $35 built frame from 1x4s $20, 4 inch felt tape $10
https://www.amazon.com/Carls-Blackout-Projector-Projection-66x110-inch/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474033098&sr=8-1&keywords=carls+blackout+cloth
Sound amazon: Onkyo 5.1 reciever and speakers $369
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3700-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00LU0GPAI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474032983&sr=8-3&keywords=onkyo
Tv stand walmart: $65
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-TV-Stand-for-Flat-Screen-TVs-up-to-42/16451703
Side tables walmart $20
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-End-Table-Black-Oak-Finish/17126588
Installed outlet and ran cables: $30
Lumber and carpet for riser lowes: $100
Recliners amazon: $299 each
https://www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products-Ergonomic-Executive/dp/B0187VV2F0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1474033061&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=best+choice+products+massage+recliner
Edit: Better Quality Photos! https://imgur.com/gallery/yLWr7
If I had a $1500 budget, I would recommend the following:
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Epson Home Cinema 2150 - $699.00
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Micca MB42X - $79.95
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Micca MB42X Center - $69.95
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Fluance AVBP2 - $119.99
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Denon AVR S530BT - $229.00
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Silver Ticket 120" Screen - $249.98
​
This would give you a decent entry level setup. You'll have about 50$ left over for speaker wire. I am be no means an expert but I lurk a lot and I think this would be decent.
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This is pretty amazing! It looks like they are using a pair of holographic display fans.
At those prices though... this is either a very talented modder, or a very wealthy cosplayer.
Hello home theater gurus! You guys have helped me before when I was looking for a nice set of speakers for a previous setup and it was much appreciated and very helpful.
Basically, I moved to a new house and it has a great basement, perfect for entertaining. on the far back there is a wall perfect for a projector and screen setup (at least it seems like it to me!). The space looks like this and the measurements are here. I currently have Fluance AVHTB speakers: http://www.fluance.com/avhtb-surround-sound-home-theater-5-speaker-system
plus two small Onkyo bookshelp speakers for rear surround for a 7.1 HT setup.
I have an old Onkyo receiver: HT-R560 powering everything and a Dayton Audio SUB-1000 10" 100 Watt Powered Subwoofer to round it all out.
For a projector, I seemed to have settled on a BenQ DLP HD 1080p Projector (HT2050)-$700: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016JYOQ3W/?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAKz5
for the screen I figure it can roll down from the upper ledge in teh above picture, so I chose an Elite Screens Spectrum, 100-inch Diag 16:9, Electric Motorized 4K Ready Drop Down Projector Screen for about $200: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YTRFEG/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=themasswi0f-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000YTRFEG&linkId=48a99c29ba91e26e8944f995e9b3d432
Am I doing OK? would you recommend anything else? I want to use it for some gaming (an old PS3, maybe being upgraded to a PS4 in teh near future and for movies/TV... mostly from the internet (Netflix/Hulu/etc.).
some questions I have:
should I go with a screen that allows sound to go through better for my mid speaker, or will cranking it up be OK for that and just getting the better screen (but lets less sound through) be good?
Should I forget the projector idea (never have had one) and just get a giant TV?
what would be and how much money would the next level best bang for your buck projector run me?
do wireless HDMI setups work well for all applications (no laggy picture)?
will this projector look pixelated at all at the max (100") for this screen?
would the next sized Elite screen (110" max) be worth it at $300? It would fit, but reach down to almost the floor.
Thanks in advance for all your help and please excuse my newbie questions!
Rock on and thanks!
-Lou
If you're willing to stretch your budget just a bit more, the BenQ w1070 is raved for it's price range and will compete with many pricier projectors. It's selling for $585 on amazon at the time of this post. There are newer models of it, but it was the gold standard <$1k projector when I was shopping around a year ago. Otherwise, the Optoma HD142X is also well received, athough again $48 over your price range. I personally purchased an Acer H5380BD a year ago around $400, with a factory refurb currently selling on amazon for $280 (steal price!!). If you're buying new though, I'd recommend stretching out for the w1070, or newer BenQ generation if you can save up to the $700 mark. The w1070 is worth the extra cash compared to my Acer, but I do enjoy my Acer quite a bit and would jump on that refurb if you're comfortable purchasing a refurb. Things have changed in the past year though, so might help to do a quick search on wire cutter or other sources for newer tech.
ninja edit: if the BenQ was <$600 when I got my Acer, would have purchased without a doubt. It was around $750 when I was holding out for it but got too impatient.
double edit: Acer 5382 is a brigher version of the 5380 for $420. These are 720p though and I'd still recommend the BenQ. As someone else mentioned, H6510BD is a solid projector as well, but the BenQ w1070 was repeatedly named best value for a reason.
yeah I want to know too
edit: https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN
$199, just slightly smaller and two arms instead of 4. Also lower resolution, but for stuff like this post it shouldn't matter too much. https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hologram+fan&qid=1556227492&s=office-products&sr=1-4
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There are also tiny USB ones if you're just having fun.
https://www.amazon.com/Fan-LED-Programmable-Gooseneck-JUBLUN/dp/B07FFSC1HL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=led+fans+text&qid=1556227624&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN
Bed/Indoor Tent
Pico Projector
Cut to Size
Congratulations! For that setup, you might want to check out one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Upgraded-Portable-Projector-Compatible/dp/B078KF8CSX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=lcd+projector&qid=1554899020&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
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Cheap as hell, and it's a LOT of fun playing Mortal Kombat with 6 foot tall characters.
My projector is a short throw Optima GT1080 on a generic stand. All the clips were from AtmosFX. I got them into Resolume, organized them, and had like ~60 clips to play with. I launched them with my Akai APC40 mkii. Surprisingly, my mid-tier laptop with only on-board graphics worked fine. It was a good few hours of work to organize the session but I can easily reuse it next year. I also had some DJ lights going with music. Plenty of people complimented, took photos, and even stopped and sat to watch. I'd definitely recommend it. People are so amazed with projection mapping and this took like only 5 minutes to actually map.
Something like this I think...
GIWOX 3D Hologram Advertising Display LED Fan, Holographic 3D Photos And Videos - 3D Naked Eye LED Fan Is Best for Store, Shop, Bar, Casino, Holiday Events Display Etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YD59RN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HCiaBbAMCHCD8
That’s really expensive for something people tell you how to make for a bicycle wheel on Instructables.
If you did want to make something, going “3D” would be pretty neat. Check out https://makezine.com/projects/persistence-vision-led-globe/
Both Questions depend on the projector you buy.
For the average consumer projector
http://www.projectorcentral.com/projectors.cfm
Will help you find an ideal projector.
There's daytime projectors to give a crisp image during the day.
I would say 50% of projectors are too loud. My projector also has an amazing 12ms response time which is rare. So generally gaming is not possible on projectors, but on mine it is. On the note of response times though, modern TV"s are horrible for response times, sometimes worst then the average projector...
Also you need to find a projector suitable for where you're mounting it in your room (throw distance range) vs size of screen.
So as you can see it's very important to do research on a projector you're buying.
This is my projector, it's an old model, only downside is darks aren't super dark.
https://www.amazon.com/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-Projector/dp/B0044UHJWY/ref=sr_1_72?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485341966&amp;sr=8-72&amp;keywords=Epson+PowerLite
I got stupid lucky picking this up for $300 used, and the replacement bulbs are only like $40 which lasts 6months-2 Years (i use it to watch like 50hrs /year... so not tons.)
It starts to become a project though to make it feel right, projector ceiling mount, electric wiring, seating, flooring (screen reflects a lot of light), surrounding wall colors, surround, screen/window curtains, projector screen (do you go 16:9 or 2.39:1 (movie theater widescreen)) If your 16:9 you can buy/make masking bars, amp, furniture, projector sound isolation boxes, lenses, 3D Chips/glasses. List goes on. You could just buy a projector and plug it in and shoot it against a wall, but you'll start to realize how lame it's but actually works a lot better then it sounds.
I wouldn't get a projector that wasn't 1080p and wasn't well reviewed. My recommendation is the Benq W1070 which is $655 right now.. It can be professionally calibrated, offers 3D, and is very bright with rich colors.
100% preference. I personally like reds. Buy a cheap sampler and find out which one you like the best :). Here is the sampler I used http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E71W4O8?pc_redir=1398007580&amp;robot_redir=1
I ended up purchasing a Steel series red switch mech keyboard. I love it!
I went to a local TV shop and asked about projectors and the guy went fucking crazy and ripped me a new ass hole for even bringing up the idea. He said people expected too much and wanted to spend too little. He said a decent setup would cost over $10k. I told him I wanted something easy to move and he tried telling me a 70" DLP was easier to move than a projector that I can carry with one hand.
I ignored this ass hole.
I bought this thing, pointed it at the wall, and turned it on. It's fucking awesome. I have a 120" "screen" (I just use the wall). Everyone who comes over says it looks amazing.
I actually bought it at Best Buy. It was $100 more, but I didn't need to wait. I also picked up their protection plan which I don't normally, do, but it also covers the bulb. One bulb will pay for the warranty.
Some things to think about before you take the plunge:
Right now mine is on a cart with everything else and my couch is in such a place where I magically don't block it anywhere I sit. I am moving soon and I have no idea what I'm going to do. The living room has a fireplace which is flanked by some built in shelving. I will either need to dump my couch in front of the fireplace and ignore it's there, or project to the area over the fireplace, which will make the picture a lot smaller than what I have now. Either way I have a feeling I will be forced to get a ceiling mount and do a whole lot more wire management... I'm not looking forward to that. Also, even if I wanted the Xbox One (I'm not sure I even do), I don't think I can come up with a decent way to set it up. I'd probably need a super long HDMI cable, then move all my components to the front of the room where they would awkwardly sit. I'm thinking of turning the projector into my bedroom TV and getting a standard TV for the living room. I don't know if that is a good idea or horrible.
tl;dr: Projectors can be amazing in the right situation, but there are some considerations you need to make since most home theater equipment isn't designed with them in mind.
I have an Epson 8350 and I love it! I've seen it on amazon for $1050. Only thing I can complain about is that it gets pixelated with fast motion scenes so I'd rather it be 120hz or something better.
I also got an Elite retractable screen with 1.1 gain so it wouldn't be as bright.
I change apartments once in awhile and these two are so easy to move and fit in any room. Just be sure you have dark curtains if you have any large windows or you can't watch during the day. It works great in low light but not in bright light.
This could be yours too!
Cyberpunkish sweatshirt
https://damascusapparel.com/?cmp_id=1620208516&amp;adg_id=57065542690&amp;kwd=damascus%20apparel&amp;device=m&amp;gclid=CjwKCAiA8rnfBRB3EiwAhrhBGmBKt_FZ6-UELnZurVjj25gMzijB3bgVonFaIH7N8Je1xoSG8nhVJRoCsYoQAvD_BwE
Spinning Hologram LED Light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YD59RN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XjY7Bb5HWTGK2
$100 less and prime here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077YD59RN/
Please don't buy a $100 projector. I have the older version of this and it has served me perfectly. This would basically be the minimum price point of still having a 1080p image (IMO). I would stick to the major brands in general (BenQ, Optoma, Epson, etc.).
They're "holographic" fans. Here's a video with more footage of them.
It's using a Chromecast to stream to the projector. The rest is a Vankyo Leisure 3 mini projector sitting on a projector table tripod and an 84" screen. I've included links below for those interested.
VANKYO Aluminum Tripod Projector Stand, Adjustable Laptop Stand, Multi-Function Stand, Computer Stand Adjustable Height 17'' to 46'' for Laptop with Plate and Carrying Bag (2-Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D54QSJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7JnGDb0TJ2R4B
Projector Screen with Stand 84 inch - Indoor and Outdoor Projection Screen for Movie or Office Presentation - 16:9 HD Premium Wrinkle-Free Tripod Screen for Projector with Carry Bag and Tight Straps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGGXNDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DKnGDbC52B3SC
VANKYO LEISURE 3 Mini Projector, 1080P and 170'' Display Supported, 2400 Lux Portable Movie Projector with 40,000 Hrs LED Lamp Life, Compatible with TV Stick, PS4, HDMI, VGA, TF, AV and USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078KF8CSX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SKnGDb0BMVAZD
The Aaxa Pico projector is the favorite projector of most cookiers and it retails for around 125$.
Pico on Amazon and Tripod that's suitable for cookie decorating with the Pico. If you want her to be able to use it right away think about the connection cord between the Pico and the phone, tablet or laptop.
You can find cookie turntables on etsy . You can also DIY one for relatively cheap.
Edit: don't get her one of those cheap, small projectors you can find on eBay and Amazon. They won't work for cookie decorating.
Hey guys! I think current state of my craigslist stereo is pretty solid, so here are some pics, info, and street prices!
EDIT: $2,250 total cost including cables
I’ve been slowly tweaking and building up a stereo over the last year from stuff I’ve purchased off Craigslist. My girlfriend and I are slowly adventuring back to the east coast from San Francisco, and we set up shop in Bozeman, Montana for a year, in this bizarre basement apartment in the city’s only formal apartment building, built in 1914.
The one thing a carpeted basement apartments excels at? Acoustics!
Other things to mention:
Well, think how it looks in a movie theater. Home projectors look as good and often times even better than what you see in a real theater given your room is set up properly with proper light control.
Personally I'll never go back to a TV.
I mean, I'm sure a Panasonic ZT or VT looks better, but IMO a projector still looks "excellent" and the size does so much more for the experience for me with a 136" image vs. a 60".
Here are some samples of the screen in my apartment:
http://i.imgur.com/FKDqH8e.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MXOLDLM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DJb2CKF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3Ho9Bst.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KiZx0sR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CAC5oVJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pHawbPT.jpg
See if you can stretch your budget a bit.
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/jsp/Product.do?sku=V11H373120-N
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1070-Theater-Projector-Silver/dp/B00A2T6X0K
http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PRO8200-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00465W7EC
You can't really...you kinda have to just feel the keys and decide which you prefer most...you might try one of these that lets you sample a few different ones relatively cheaply:
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00N6DXTW4/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41VWvowwRIL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1WYWD6522PFSGJXNG7Q7
edit: this is a bit cheaper than that one, albeit with fewer caps to test: http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
BenQ HT2050. Sells for $780 right now, but you can get a deal if you wait. I paid $630 for mine this January.
https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-DLP-1080p-Projector-HT2050/dp/B016JYOQ3W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496689938&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=benq+ht2050
They're not cheap (~180USD)! But here ya go for anyone interested! There's a more fancy version on etsy too. Definitely worth their fun (if I could afford them haha)
Optoma HD141X - $599.99 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MK39P92?pc_redir=1412721600&amp;robot_redir=1
Just bought one 3 weeks ago, absolutely love it. I had an acer hd5360, this is leaps and bounds above the acer, and I loved that projector.
Leaving like $1400:
That leaves $700
My friend has a nice Epson projector. This is his. Unfortunately his bulb went out :( Anyways we had an idea of a projector screen for outdoor entertainment. The first go around was made from 3/4" PVC pipe and it was elevated a little. We guessed and checked a lot because that is what we like to do. The screen material was blackout cloth with was 8'x10'. We put grommets in it to attach it to the PVC. This screen worked just find, and was portable!
He decided bigger was better, so of course I obliged. What I didn't realize is how BIG he wanted to go. Well the new screen was 15'x30' it was absolutely gigantic. We made this from 3" PVC pipe along with some hefty stakes from Lowe's. The PVC just sat on these stakes. We used tow straps to help stretch out the tarp. We should have made cross members for this, but we didn't. The tow straps helped out considerably. Anyways here are some pictures. http://imgur.com/W0qO1DB and http://imgur.com/yS4Z7o3 My friend is about 6'2" for comparison.
I have this Epson and I am very impressed with it. Yes I know it's an entry level machine and the purists will tell you all about how it ain't good enough, but it throws a 128" picture in 1080p from 11 ft back (from the corner to the door is about 11ft). I'm happy. You can count the blades of grass in the World Cup, the TWD zombies are crystal clear, and I can hook up my laptop and play games. And I don't have a big clunky tv stand in the middle of the wall.
Would something like this not work?
Have a few different options. :)
4-switch
6-switch
8-switch
If youre only looking at the normal switches, something like this would solve your problem, but If you also want to test more rare switch-types this is a pretty good option
Most people find mechanicals less fatiguing to type on for long periods of time because you don't have to push the key all the way down to actuate the switch (unlike rubber dome which you have to fully depress.)
Buying guide is always a good place to start and I would definitely take a trip to Fry's/Microcenter if there is one near you to try out switches.
Edit: here's a nice animated guide to the different mechanical switch types and both WASD keyboards & Max Keyboards make a sampler pack if you want to feel them for yourself.
Here's the one I have. I freaking love it. Great picture.
Optoma HD141X 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MK39P92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_28-IxbPEE7ZSB
Here it is! As far as we can tell, it's currently running at 1080p, 60hz. It looks fantastic. It's also entirely portable and has a lot of features.
EDIT: According to the amazon page, it doesn't do 1080p. However, it just said so on the screen. Not sure about that one. Still looks great though.
Just FYI, most projectors these days have 3D built in. A projector is my next buy, most likely.
They are much better prices than I remember 15 years ago (like $3000). Example: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2T6X0K/
Winner on Amazon
I dont have this projector but it has the highest customer satisfaction for the price.
If that is too expensive for you the route I went which i would recomend is to buy a used projector that you can buy bulbs for. YOU MUST VERIFY THAT YOU CAN BUY BULBS BEFORE BUYING THE PROJECTOR (my first mistake)
I spent $100 on my first used projector. Bulb burned out, looked online expecting to find some cheap bulbs. NO BULBS, not even expensive ones were available.
Then I spent $50 bucks on a used projector where bulbs were available spent another $200 on spare bulbs and I am set for a long time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0VRE6E
Many people that follow /r/projectors would suggest you just save your money for something better or to buy used off of eBay or Craigslist.
If this is your first Projector, I'd imagine there will be that 'Wow!' effect because of how big the screen is and how 'good' the quality is. That's how I was with my $100 projector, but I returned it because I wanted something better/more once I had a taste of it.
If you're 100% going to buy a cheap chinese LED projector then shop around a little bit. For example this projector is:
TL;DR: If this is your very first Projector, you'll probably enjoy it and I'm excited for you. If you want a cheap projector, I'd search for 'projectors' on Amazon. Remember that because these projectors don't have many lumens and NEED to be in a dark room to be able to see anything. Read this.
I have an Optoma HD141X Full 3D 1080p 3000 Lumen DLP Home Theater Projector with MHL Enabled HDMI Port projecting onto an Elite Screens 109 Inch 16:10 Manual Pull Down Projector Screen (57.8"Hx92.4"W). Lot of bang for the buck and still get surprised on the resolution of the picture and the overall viewing experience.
If you can order from IKEA, or have one nearby, I highly recommend you check them out for most of your furniture needs. You hear all the time that people hate IKEA, and how cheap their furniture feels, but I think that might be because people don't know how to take care of their furniture. You have to know the limits.
DESK: LINNMON / $45 - I've had this desk for 2 years going on 3, and have not had one single issue with it. Here is an image of it's potential.
PROJECTOR: Optoma HD142X / $545 - One of the best 1080p projectors on the market for the price. Can throw an amazing 150+ in screen size while still looking incredibly vivid and beautiful. Here is what it looks like in my current setup. Beats my 55 inch 4k TV I bought for $700.
There are also some short throw projectors that are really expensive, but if it's worth not having to mount it then it might be a good fit for you. Just note, any projector will be limited to how many devices you can hook up to it so I recommend either going with something like a chromecast, or buying a receiver to hook everything up to.
If you get a sofa from IKEA, just know that you are sacrificing a bit of comfort for aesthetics / easy setup and take down when you move. But the second part to that is important in your situation.
Most IKEA sofas are bought broken down, and you set it up at home. This makes moving them in much easier.
SOFA: FRIHETEN Sleeper sectional / $599 - This sofa is comfortable, functional, and looks really nice. I have since replaced it with a larger sectional when I moved, but here is an image of what it can look like in a space.
BED: Zinus Memory Foam 10 Inch Mattress, King / $275 - This is easily the best purchase I have made in quite some time. I was skeptical about it's price, but it is easily beyond any mattress I have ever slept on.
BEDFRAME: Really anything you like in this category, there are many options from all over the place. If you get a memory foam then a platform bed without a box spring looks sleek.
Good quality Projectors have really come down in price
https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-T20-Projector-Multimedia-Smartphone/dp/B01LZRUY6Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504671248&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=projector
We use a projector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHG92Y5/
Or this Epson 2150 Home Cinema Projector
The best blacks, color and 3D for the money.
Got a link?
Edit: I do. https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN
I can't tell for this but I think it might be something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077YD59RN
It's a Vankyo Leisure 3, I got it off Amazon for 80 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Upgraded-Portable-Projector-Compatible/dp/B078KF8CSX
I figured thats what you meant. The only reason I said something is because I was a little let down by Oculus cinema, resolution wise. I was hoping for at least 960x540 (qHD) effective resolution, but I don't mind waiting for the 4k Note 5 ;)
It blows my mind that Optoma makes a super bright 1080p 3d projector for $600. Soooooo inexpensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-Theater-Projector-Enabled/dp/B00MK39P92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419445991&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optoma+1080p
Iv'e been looking at the Optoma HD141x, and for pretty much the same specs you're looking for.
It's 1080P 60Fps capable, 20,000:1 Contrast ratio. 3000 Lumens.
Most reviews talk about it favorably, and as soon as I have the money together, this is the one I shall be investing in.
Here's the Amazon link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MK39P92/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Not a belt, but I have an AmazonBasics Travel Case containing:
This stuff used to just rattle around loose in my satchel, but it's much more convenient kept together in a nice solid case.
Hey, this is exactly the advise i was asking for.
So i was going to buy this 4 port USB https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00Y25XFGK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2PGPJL0BBLHLX
Is a SATA port different? The computer has 3 USB ports
I have 250 MBS fibre connection at my house, Is this the same as bandwidth?
Thanks again
They've definitely become more affordable in price recently. For those looking for something similar and even slightly better than the W1070, the BenQ HT2050 at $699 is pretty good imo. BenQ usually has a reputation for producing better color than other brands, and even some ambient light doesn't actually affect the quality as much as one would think.
I know you don't care about 3D, but you'll probably end up with a 3D projector anyway since those are tuned for gaming.
For gaming, you're going to want a DLP projector (pick your artifacts, rainbows are better than ghosting for gaming) that's pretty bright, at least 2,000 lumens. This Optoma and this BenQ fit the bill.
I'd say Benq HT2050. It's as good as my Epson 9500UB in bright scenes (and goes even brighter). The blacks are not as good as my Epson but they are respectable. Also I have a buddy who had the older W1070 and got over 6000 hours on his first bulb. That's probably something you shouldn't expect but still great knowing its possible. https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-DLP-1080p-Projector-HT2050/dp/B016JYOQ3W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505224884&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=benq+ht2050
https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-Lumens-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6
This is the one I have and does movies and games no bother. Just make sure you get a HD one either way.
Here!
If you're just looking for a light show all you really care about is how bright it is, and many claim a lot higher brightness than they actually produce. My neighbor bought this one for Halloween decorations outside and it worked really well
With that projector you would get about 80" image size from 10'. You can calculate the different projectors here: http://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Cinema-Wireless-Miracast-projector/dp/B074FLKWSY/ref=dp_ob_title_ce is highly rated, and would give you a bigger image, but still not 120" you might want to look into optoma, or benq to see if one of those fits your needs.
Type A USB ports seem to be pretty common. The Epson Home Cinema 2150 has one and so does the Optima HD39DARBEE. I suspect most any decent projector will have one.
I did not do extensive research, but here is something fairly inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.com/Projector-Anker-Portable-High-Contrast-Playtime/dp/B076Q3GBJK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537393253&sr=1-3&keywords=anker+portable+projector
&#x200B;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BenQ-MH530FHD-1080p-3300-ANSI-Lumens-Home-Theater-Projector-Refurbished/152995998482?hash=item239f45ab12%3Ag%3A-%7EkAAOSwVpla32AU&LH_ItemCondition=2000
Really depends on what you consider cheap or not. If you don't want to spend more than $100 then any highly rated Chinese projector on amazon would do, be wary of YouTube videos as most are paid adverts by the company. Just be aware that most if not all will state "supported" resolution of 1080p, but if you look at native resolution spec it's going to around 480p (native is the keyword as that is the actual resolution output). Don't expect much functionality or features like usb-c and definitely don't expect it to last. If you have been scrolling this subreddit you might have notice a lot of people requesting help for fixing their low end projectors after a slight bump or drop, etc.
If you bump your budget to $200-$300 you could pick up a Nebula Capsule you're still stuck with 480p, but you gain 4 hours battery life, android os (Apps and the ability to mirror screen), and HDMI all in the size of a soda can. If you want to project on the ceiling just pick up a gorilla pod.
I found what I was thinking of. It's called a 3d holographic display. It is also a rotating bar with lights on it but the software must be more complex I guess.
Here's a cheaper one. GIWOX 3D Hologram Advertising Display LED Fan, Holographic 3D Photos and Videos - 3D Naked Eye LED Fan is Best for Store, Shop, Bar, Casino, Holiday Events Display Etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YD59RN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UmT6BbP4K4N8D
And a $1200 one GIWOX 2018 3D Hologram Fan Display 65S with Powerful WiFi,1080P HD and 724Pcs Led Beads,Four-Axil Design and High Transfer Speed,Upload by iOS and Android 3D Holographic Fan(25.6Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HSTLTR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_spT6Bb5JKYS7J
https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN
Projectors are cheaper than LCDs nowadays. This projector is fantastic:
Epson Powerlite 8350
and then just buy this screen and you have a great 10 foot screen for under $1500. The only drawback to projectors is you need a dark(ish) room.
Aaxa led pico pocket
I've had it for a year so I can give whatever info. But basically it's very low light, 25 lumins (I was surprised it works so damn well by firelight!). But for power it's just so good. It runs for 60-70 minutes off its own battery, it's also one of the few that don't try and turn off during charge so you can just hook it up with a micro USB charger. It's only
30002000mAh battery (so that's 2000mAh per hour if your looking at power banks).Inputs are HDMI, SD card or a USB stick (if the movies are the right formate), now the instructions SAY it will only let read a 64GB USB stick but I recently bought a sata-USB cable for an unused 200GB SSD and it's working like a charm.
Otherwise I can also use my USB-C phone to output to HDMI, but that's twice the power as my phone is being sucked dry at the same time.
I have a free standing screen I can just hang inside the car or lean up against the car (or picnic table in this case).
Cheap and a bit of fun. Has a tiny speaker but also a headphone jack. No Bluetooth.
About 720p, all the specs you can get from the aaxo site, click on the specs down the bottom.
http://aaxatech.com/products/led_pico_pocket_projector.html
Edit: but I should mention I see AAXA brought out a new fancy range of low power projectors, though nothing like $130... They look rad though. Good brand!
Thank you! There was a recommendation in a video tutorial I was watching (I cannot recall which one) for the AAXA LED Pico Projector. It is currently a little over $100. I think my husband got it for less just before Christmas. I also purchased this stand, and this cable. In addition, since I was connecting to a Kindle Fire 4th generation, I needed one of these cables. The projector works well. Because of the orientation though, you need to flip your image upside down and horizontally to have it reflected properly on the cookie. It is nice and compact for storage, too.
If you live in a place where you could mount a screen, or have a room setup with enough space to use a stand, and you truly want to get the theater experience, you can get a solid projector-based setup for $1500.
BenQ W1070 - $700
16:9 100' retractable screen - $80
Assume ~$70 for a blu ray player, if you don't want to just get an HDMI cable and adapter and use your laptop for now, and that leaves $650 for audio, which can certainly get you a very strong two-channel system. Especially if you live in an area with a healthy craigslist trade. Then you can work your way up to 5.1 over time if you feel the need to.
Keep an eye out on craigslist for Infinity Primus P363 tower speakers (and for upgrading to 5.1, other Infinity Primus speakers as well). The Primus line has just gone out of production, but they're great speakers for their price, and the 363 towers could regularly be had for $200 a pair on sale at Amazon or Fry's, so they got around quite a bit and pop up pretty regularly secondhand.
In general soundbars and other home-theater-in-a-box setups are a good thing to avoid if you can afford to step up a notch, and I think you could with your budget, especially your budget + some patience for sales or your budget + craigslist.
I can't say I'm an a/v guru, but this is the core of my setup and I typically get "I would never leave my couch..." reactions when folks come over, haha.
You'll probably find more advice over in /r/hometheater, too.
> EDIT: Mabey I should clarify, IS it worth paying the extra 400+ for 1080p? thanks
I absolutely think so. At times, I find my 1080p PT-AE4000 throwing a 112" image and viewed from 10 ft isn't even high res enough. I would not buy a new 720p projector at this point in time.
As for the Acer H5370BD:
> Rainbows. The H5370BD uses a 2X-speed RGBCMY color wheel. As a result, if you are sensitive to rainbow artifacts you are probably going to see them in spades on the H5370BD. If you aren't sure whether or not you are sensitive to DLP rainbows, here's how you can figure it out. Order the H5370BD from a vendor with a generous return policy, then pop in a Blu-ray copy of either The Dark Knight or Quantum of Solace. Both movies have bright highlights moving quickly against dark backgrounds, which tend to induce rainbows more often than other types of content. If you see flashes of color where they shouldn't be, you're seeing the rainbow effect. If you see it only occasionally it may not be worth worrying about. If you see them frequently they will drive you nuts with distraction and you will want a different projector.
From: http://www.projectorcentral.com/acer_h5370bd_3d_home_video_projector_review.htm?page=Limitations
Gaming will have high contrast fast moving scenes and you will get rainbow artifacts. If you're fine with that, go for it. The input lag is quite low which is good for gaming.
I would personally save up and go for the 1080p Benq W1070 though.
Also seeing this Benq projector getting good reviews and it appears to have multi-channel audio out compared to the previous projector I linked. Price goes up, but it seems to be a pretty solid contender.
https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-DLP-1080p-Projector-W1070/dp/B00A2T6X0K
Ive got it and its a fantastic bargain. Full 1080, good lumens and high contrast. Plus supports 3d if thats your thing.
Benq w1070 Projector
Denon-1713 receiver
Jamo S426 Speakers
BIC F12 Subwoofer
3D TV Corp Glasses
Sony BDP-5100
edit: If anyone is wondering, 89" fixed screen. Picture doesn't really do it justice.
I absolutely love it. Could not be happier. Feel free to ask any questions.
It's a BenQ W1070
There's nothing like having a huge monitor. I have a 27" monitor as well as an HD projector. It's nice for when you don't want to wear your glasses.
You are going to be piecing together my dream if this works. You may not get a room that size to function wall to wall. Even if you fabric divide the room so the two long walls are 16:9 aspect. making it 213" x 120" on the long wall. Problem with that is the short wall that is only 7.5 feet wide means you have a near 1:1 aspect for those walls.
Would it be acceptable to just use a 7.5x7.5 half of the room and pump four 16X9 projectors around all producing a 104" screen that is 51" high. It won't be floor to ceiling however. The other option would be to go with 4:3 projectors which you can get above 1024x768 but it costs. These would allow you to fill that 7.5x7.5 cube with 113" diagonal images that go 68" high.
None of these are short throw and if you try to do that full wall it wont work. You are going to have to cut half of it out and live with 16:9's or 1024's for short throw.
Is this all hypothetical or do you actually have a plan to do this?
This is the absolutely cheapest 1080p native resolution projector I found.
https://www.amazon.com/Acer-H6510BD-Theater-Projector-White/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=sr_1_248?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468584862&amp;sr=1-248&amp;keywords=Home+theater+projector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A11028018011
I basically bought the most entry level 1080p projector. I made my own screen with 2x4's and screen cloth bought off Amazon (I think it ran me ~$60). I am very impressed with the picture quality, everything looks amazing. It struggles when outside light is present, but black out curtains solved that issue. I had huge buyers remorse when I initially bought it, but once it arrived and I hooked it up, that instantly went away. Nothing like 100+" of awesomeness on your wall. The bulb life is around 4000 hours so hopefully by using it sparingly, I can make that last quite some time.
There is no easy way for anyone to recommend this to you, because switches are EXTREMELY preference. For example, the mx blues are regarded as typing switches and usually not preferred for gaming because they are more difficult to double tap the keys. However, I love the blues, and I even enjoy gaming on them. I would recommend either finding a store like a best buy that may have some different ones on display or ordering one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406166576&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=key+switch+tester
Also, what is your budget, because the three keyboards you have listed are on the average side. They are good if on a budget, but some other companies may be something to look into if your budget allows. Try looking into Ducky, Filco, and Das. They are more pricey, but the build quality is exceptional. There is also the option of the KBT Poker II if you do not mind the 60% form factor. And as always, check the side bar, there is a buyers guide linked over there and /u/ripster55 keeps this shit pretty up to date!
This may be helpful to purchase before you spend a lot of money on a keyboard: http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396128414&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cherry+mx+test
Personally, I prefer more resistance than Red or Brown switches will provide. Blues are pretty nice to type on and they definitely work fine for gaming, but be warned before you bring one of those keyboards into an office - people will probably be upset because they can get pretty loud.
There are also a few less common types of switches to consider: Clear switches are essentially Brown switches with extra resistance, and Green switches are like Blues with extra resistance. If you're a pretty violent typist, you might want to consider those.
And then, of course, you have the classic Unicomp keyboards with buckling springs like an old IBM Model M keyboard. If you've used one of those before, you probably remember the feeling - there's nothing quite like it. I'm typing on a Unicomp right now, and it's by far my favorite keyboard to date. This is also very easily the loudest keyboard I've ever owned, and while it's probably not loud enough to get you evicted from an apartment, it's entirely possible that your neighbors will hear it if you have thin walls.
You definitely don't need to go mechanical for gaming. I actually don't notice much of a difference in games because I'm not pressing that many keys generally. I definitely prefer how my mech feels while typing though. But that's all it is - preference. Some people don't like mechs. I personally can't go back to rubber domes for personal use.
If you can't try a mech keyboard locally, you can try ordering a switch sampler so you can get an idea of what the keys feel like at least, which may give you a better idea if that's something you'd like or not.
> Edit: Will a mechanical keyboard provide an actual advantage besides feeling better?
Yes. Because of the increased travel distance and more uniform feel, you will be more confident that your key presses actually registered. Like turning on your shield for example, how many times have you not been sure whether you turned it on or not?
The good ones also have N-key rollover, which means that you can press every key on the keyboard at the same time, and they will all register. I know that sounds like overkill (it is), but it means that there is a 0% chance of key presses not being registered (I can't sprinting and redeploy on my current keyboard).
As for which switch to choose, pick up this:
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
You have 30 days to return it to Amazon, which should be more than enough time.
You can order a switch tester that just has a few keys and switches! Then you can get a general idea of what you'd like. They come with O-rings as well, so you can try those too (they prevent the keys from bottoming out, i.e going all the way down. This reduces both the noise and distance the key will travel when pressed). http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
That company also has one with 8 keys/switches. Don't forget to read the links in the sidebar to find out what you want too! You can definitely snag one for less than $160, but it depends on what you want.
Best thing you can do is to try them out for yourself.
you could go to a place where you can test them, OR get a keytester like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/
I personally went with the brown switches because they are quiet, and could be made even quieter with orings (i didn need them) thats the only thing i considered really because i couldnt find a place to test them out. and i didnt want to spend $10 for a tester.
Blue ones are really noisy, and reds are in between.
Here is a sound test for different switches
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUN93Xz-7pg
At the end i think ANY cherry mx is a good one, definitively it will be an upgrade from a regular one no matter which one you choose.
Amazon? You are probably better off trying keyboards at your local Best Buy though. Clicky Razer is the equivalent of Blues, Silent Razer are Browns, and Corsair are Reds. I highly recommend not to buy one of those, but they should give a feel for the different switch types.
CM Storm QFR or Ducky One TKL are the best TKL options with a budget of $100.
I would get a switch tester like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8), you don't want to make a decision that you regret every time you use your pc
It looks like one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E71W4O8?pc_redir=1406028871&amp;robot_redir=1
I actually just got this, and I think it seriously does help a lot having these four keys around to test how you like it. I found out that blue one is too noisy and that red and black did not offer any tactile response that I expected of a mechanical keyboard. So I think I like the brown the most, but I am still contemplating between Happy Hacker keyboard and the mechanical keyboard. If anyone else has used two before, let me know the cons and pros!
Well first you need to find out which switch is for you, that will change what keyboards we recommend.
To do this, buy one of these (or something similar): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E71W4O8?pc_redir=1410666457&amp;robot_redir=1
Or go to your local electronics store and pound on some keyboards!
Also read: http://lifehacker.com/how-to-choose-the-best-mechanical-keyboard-and-why-you-511140347
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E71W4O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Cheaper one with Red/Black/Blue/Brown.
This projector. The PVC pipe worked great. I used 1.5" and it is plenty strong.
I have the Optishot myself. It's not the most accurate unit and takes the right lighting to get proper club readings, but it's still fun to play around with. It has helped me with my swing a little by helping me practice getting a more neutral path. I used to swing really outside-in and using the Optishot has helped me correct that a little. Hopefully in a few years I can plunk down a few grand for something a little more accurate.
http://imgur.com/jakTspN
I'm using the following projector and screen. I bought these mainly for outdoor movie watching, but keep the screen set up in the garage when not in use then I just bring my laptop and Opti out and connect it to the projector.
Projector: http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00MK39P92?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01
Screen: http://www.amazon.com/Camp-Chef-OS-144-Indoor-Outdoor/dp/B00CA370DA?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02
I hope to eventually buy a projector and screen to go with it. My goal is to be able to play movies off my macbook and transmit them wirelessly to the projector and speakers. Are there any other considerations I take into account with regards to the receiver (or projector for that matter)?
I would steer you away from Sony's receivers and toward a brand that does audio exclusively. Like Denon, Marantz or Onkyo (among others). Sony doesn't have a great reputation for their audio hardware anymore.
As far as your projector choice I would suggest the Epson 8350 over that Panasonic. Costs about the same but gets better black levels. It's not quite as bright but 2000 lumens is plenty for most people.
I have an Optoma HD20, pretty much the same distance away from the projector in a room similarly sized, with similar light constraints. I've been pretty pleased with that projector except for some screen door effect I tend to notice on some blurays.
That being said I've been keeping my eye on a new projector for a while and think this one is close to what you're looking for:
http://www.amazon.com/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-8350/dp/B0044UHJWY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377614422&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=epson+powerlite
Unfortunately I don't have any experience with the two HD25 models but the older model seemed to do just find except for the occasional screen door. So hopefully they've done a good job updating their product line...
edit: If anyone has any experience with the screen door issue on the HD20 and has found any solutions it would be awesome if you could share it...
Not sure where you live or what options are around you but that can definitely make a difference.
The hot air balloon ride was already suggested but it's a good one.
You could check with the nearest zoo or aquarium and see if there is an option to do something like feed the animals. My local zoo has where you can feed penguins for 100$ (1 person) or feed pelicans for 55$ (2 people) or hide treats in the bear exhibit for 200$ (6 people).
I also do not know ages but I went out of my way to ship a bottle of my girlfriend's favorite wine in for valentine's day.
You could spend the money to buy a pocket projector which you can insert a usb drive into the side to projet from. Then buy a portable speaker and get an audio cable. Take her for a picnic in the park and then set up a portable theater for the two of you. Just need a rope and white sheet. It's also useful stuff for other things and surprisingly cheap and durable.
Definitely helps if you know what she likes. My girlfriend enjoys musicals so I bought her tickets to Phantom of the Opera for her birthday. Definitely not cheap. I also took her to the ballet for valentine's day.
Honestly, focus on doing something that she likes that might be pricier rather than just doing something that's expensive. My girlfriend appreciates that I bought a rose bush and that I'm growing the flowers that I give her each time rather than solely buying them from a flower shop. So you could do that sort of thing, it's also cheaper in the long run.
No problem. And it definitely takes time. I struggled with consistency a lot in the past. You want to be able to pull your mixing utensil out of it and have it fall back on itself and not settle again.
This is the projector I have with this stand. They were a gift from my boyfriend and I think the two of them are about $140. My phone doesn't support the use of an HDMI cord unfortunately so I just out my stuff on a thumb drive and project my images that way.
Well, that's pretty much as unfancy as the questions get when talking about even the most basic home theater.
The room size pretty much determines the throw. If you have a big room (eg 12'+), then you can go with a medium throw projector, but if the room is <12', you'll have to start looking into short-throw projectors which are crazy expensive. "Throw" or "throw ratio" is essentially the distance a projector needs to be away from the wall to show a certain screen width (throw ratio = distance from screen/width of screen). eg. If you want a 6' wide picture in a 12' room, you'd have to have a projector with a throw ratio of at least 2. The smaller the throw ratio, the larger the picture you can have in a smaller room. Another way of thinking about it is if you have a room that is 10' and the projector has a throw ratio of 1.5, the maximum screen width will be 6.66' (10/1.5). If you put that same projector in a 15' room, the maximum screen width would be 10' (15/1.5).
If you are planning to blackout the room, you can get away with fewer lumens, but if you plan to leave the windows uncovered or only partially shaded, then you'll need far more lumens to get a decent picture.
How you plan to mount the project determines the connections and image alignment. If you need wireless connections, that eliminates a lot of projectors. If you plan to mount the projector from the ceiling vs mid-wall, you'll need to be able to adjust the image. Some have pretty basic controls, but depending on your plans, you may need something better.
For my home theater, I have a BenQ W1070. It's 14' room with black-out window covers, and it's mounted mid-wall. However, I only spent ~$500 on it because when I bought it the newer version had just come out. The newer model W1075 is actually cheaper than the older model, but still one of the best in its class. My uncle builds $40k+ custom home theaters for a living, and in his opinion, the next projector better for my set-up was just shy of $15k.
> You'd need some somewhat expensive projectors tho to make sure they have enough adjustment to account for the steep angle of the projectors. (I'm assuming the projectors are mounted above so it shoots the display over your head, hence a steep angle that needs adjustment.)
Nah, I have this one and it throws the image slightly above the lens, but also has lens shift. When mounted close to the ceiling upside down you get the image about a foot from the ceiling with no keystone needed. If you have to hang it lower to go under a fan or something the adjustment is super doable and the image still looks nice.
It all depends on what you would like to spend. At the cheapest you could do it for around $500. This would restrict you to SVGA resolution which is 800x600 IIRC.
The breakdown for this would be:
If possible I would invest in a nice mid-range projector like the BenQ W107. It is one of the highest rated projectors in its price range although it is a bit pricy.
EDIT: To answer your questions, I doubt there are any outside safe projectors. Your best bet would be some kind of watertight housing if you are keeping it outside. But if you're investing in a projector you might as well use it inside too and have a 5 meter screen. Screens all depend on the material. You want something that is evenly reflective which makes a big difference in the appearance of the image. The cheapest thing right now that works incredibly well is blackout cloth which is used in window blinds to block out the sun by reflecting it. The cost is so small compared to the difference in image to a white sheet or a board that it is generally recommended.
Obviously there is a lot to this so here are just a few suggestions/preferences:
https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-DLP-1080p-Projector-W1070/dp/B00A2T6X0K
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1070-1080P-Theater-Projector/dp/B00A2T6X0K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414685480&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=benqw1070+projector
exact one I have looks to be about 730 US dollars now
Well, once you get a projector, the only significant limit on the screen size is the size of your wall and how dark you want to get the room. Larger screen sizes aren't very expensive.
eg, my 120" screen was only $158 and upgrading it to a 150" screen would only bring it up to $350. Either screen uses the same projector ($800) vs a
90 inch 1080p tv for $6000. As soon as you get into large format TVs, it's always going to be way cheaper to just get a projector. The only downside of a projector is I probably wouldn't want to run it for more than 4 hours at a time regularly, and probably not ever more than 6 hours at a time.
Looking around online a bit further, it appears that it isn't until you're looking a TVs that are 60" or smaller that the TVs will start to be cheaper than a good projector + screen.
you cant get a projector to 1080 res. at that price point. But you can if you go $50 more
benq w1070
youll need another 200 for a screen
If you are looking for a good* cheap projector you are on the right track with BenQ. But if you ask me this is not that great of a deal. It's native resolution is only 1200x800. For another $110 you can get this. Which not only is native 1080p and has a much better selection of inputs but its pretty much the best projector you can get under $1000
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but isn't that projector the BenQ W1070? That price listed for it has shot up for the Holidays, usually it goes for around $100 less than currently listed on Amazon. It's a really popular projector on this subreddit and for good reason.
I was also looking into buying this as a first projector. A word for OP, if you're not pressed for time then you should wait to buy. There's a website that lets you track prices on Amazon to let you see the deal you're getting. If you were planning on buying from amazon then it looks like the best time to buy is January.
First, since everything is already wired, you need to make sure you get a model that works with your screen size and mounting distance.
I like this calculator: http://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm
Good luck!
Next, most reviews say the best entry-level DLP projector is the BenQ W1070 or the updated W1075. If you watch for a sale you can get them very close to your price range.
https://amzn.com/B00A2T6X0K
https://amzn.com/B00LTMPOUO
The main reason they are so well reviewed is they are one of the few entry level projectors that have a true RGBRGB color wheel. This results in a lower listed brightness (because they don't have a clear segment to cheat the test), but a greater perceived brightness during actual use. They also have better color balance without calibration right out of the box.
In a blacked out room they should be more than bright enough.
Viewsonic, 3000 Lumens, 800by600, 3D capable $350 (New)
VIewsonic, 2800 Lumesn, 800by600, 3D capable $300 (New)
If you're willing to buy used or refurbished it gets even better. I got a 3,500 Lumens, 1024by768, 3D capable refurbished for $200 about 3 weeks ago.
ANSI Lumens is brightness in case you don't know, the more Lumens the easier it will be to see during the day; most pico (mini) projectors don't get over 50 to 150 Lumens. Considering my 3,500 Lumen projector is usable during the day but not great, good with normal curtains closed and wonderful with blackout curtains you won't want a pico projector as your main display unless it's only going to be used at night.
-- ANSI Lumens: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_(unit)#ANSI_lumens You want to make sure it says ANSI Lumens when checking products, otherwise it is likely a completely BS number.
Try to avoid off brand projectors, prices will be great but the quality tends to be complete crap.
Take into consideration bulb life and replacement cost! I can't stress this enough; the price of a projector doesn't end once you've bought it, you'll likely need to replace the bulb every 1 to 3 years.
Also contrast ratio is important but you can't trust the ones they post anyways (any full size projector should have good contrast ratio these days).
get a projector.
Better sense of scale and you can get 120 hz 3D for < $350
I have no idea why more people don't do this.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD5134-Projector-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00A9S3OOC Highly recommended for retro / SD-era game consoles.
Hmm, is there any way to get a TV connection to the projector without a cable box? TV in the dorm is just a cable connection in the wall. Please pardon my stupidity, all of my wire experience is in music/sound. I don't really do the video side of things too often. How do you feel about this?
Well its real projection TV, here is what I use
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B11C6HW/
http://www.amazon.com/Screens-F100XWH1-ezCinema-Portable-Projection/dp/B000PHLC7I/
I just saw your username, you aren't going to fap to this are you
Personally, I love gaming on my projector. I have the Acer H6510bd and it's been great so far. I use it every day, and I haven't noticed any problems with response time or gaming. It is currently projecting at 135". 1080p, DLP (better response time), and most of all it's cheap. I kinda took a chance on it, because there weren't many reviews, but it has been great. I've had it for about a year now. IMO, this is the way to go unless you can afford a 2k-3k projector.
Honestly mine was the sound. I used a friend's MX Red keyboard, and while it is still definitely an amazing keyboard, I wanted something more tactile and loud, strangely enough. I haven't used the blue switches, however I am positive that I want something with the tactile bump, so that narrowed it down to blues, browns, and greens for me. After watching some videos of people typing on youtube, I found that I loved the sound of the blues/greens. Then I simply chose blues because I'm used to my laptop and desktop keys, which are both pretty light to press.
Don't overthink it too much, all of the MX keyswitches are great. It will simply be a difference between super awesome and awesome.
Also they sell switch test kits:
http://www.cmstore-usa.com/mechanical-key-switch-demo-board/
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
You could buy one of those and then resell it at /r/mechmarket
Hope that helped.
I kinda regret going with Reds over Browns, because I think I would have liked that tactile bump on key activation.
However, for gaming I really do like the smooth action on the Reds. Coupled with some o-rings it's also really nice for typing.
If I were you, and you're going to go out and spend $100 on a keyboard that's going to last you a long, long time I'd consider getting a switch sampler like this or this (out of stock right now) to see which you like most.
if you don't there are always the Cherry sampler kit you can order for $10
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
ha so I would definitely order a switch tester. 12 bucks could save you piles of trouble.
here
edit: also what games do you play? Or is it mostly typing?
>(Becuz apparently thats the best for FPS)
Ok, stop right there. Stop everything. Do nothing.
You should never, ever, ever buy a mechanical keyboard because someone else says it's the best thing. What you need to do is figure out what features you want out of your keyboard (you mention media keys and backlighting) and get some experience with different switches. Grab a mechanical keycap tester to figure out which switch you like. Now you meet the requirements of asking people for keyboard recommendations: You know what you want.
As for why should you go through all this trouble? Well, a mechanical keyboard is going to last you way, way beyond its warranty. It's going to last enough for you to consider buying keycaps because the ones you have are worn and ugly. It's going to last enough for lots of cool, new stuff to come out while you're still using it. The worst thing you could do is get something that's cheap, only to later find out that there's something you'd like more, but now can't justify the minor upgrades anymore. I say this as someone who did exactly that and is in that exact situation and it fucking sucks.
Also, "that's the best for FPS" is utter, clueless bullshit. A mechanical keyboard does absolutely nothing for FPS gameplay. Some people hold an opinion that certain switches, due to their nature, are easier to double click and thus are better for playing games. Well, when was the last time that double- or triple-tapping a key was something you were doing in an FPS?
You can buy these to test the keys out:
http://www.cmstore-usa.com/mechanical-key-switch-demo-board/
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
Anyone using this keyboard please consider a mechanical keyboard. You can probably test a Black Widow at Best Buy. Now days those keyboards will have "green switches" which are similar to Cherry MX Blues. These are known to be loud switches. There are different switches to accommodate the feel you like. Here is a link to a sampler kit. Off topic, has anyone tried some dampener rings? Do they change the way your keys feel or only affect the sound?
I upgraded my keyboard today, actually. I think the Black Widow is a great starter keyboard. I don't dig lights or anything so I was able to pick it up for $70. It is the one with Cherry MX Blue switches. Sadly my W switch is going out so I ordered the Das Keyboard Model S Ultimate. It has same switches and feels great.
I ordered some replacement switches, a nicer soldering iron than I have, a desolder pump, and some flux. Going to keep it alive for use with my other pc.
They aren't that difficult to come by, Amazon has the basic 4 for $10. Max Keyboard Keycap, Cherry MX Switch, O-Ring Sampler Tester Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AEtezb7JADR54
Edit: 9 switch tester for $18. Akwox 9-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester, Keycap puller, keyboard Keycap, O-Ring Sampler Tester Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GZHU1EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZyuezbTNBCSFB
Here's a switch tester for $13.
Here's one on Amazon for $10. It's the one I have right now and it makes for a great stress ball. Cheers!
Having tried a few Black Widows from Razer in the store I can say you are getting 99% of the experience of a cherry mx switch (purist might murder me for saying this, but whatever).
You can feel the difference between the two, cherry and razer, if they are side by side, but both are clicky and a bit loud for sure. So if loudness is what you want to remove, blue and green switches are not for you. :)
Yes, reds are generally better for gaming. As I explained in my long-winded post, they are better because they lack any bump, thus you can easily and quickly spam the button. Due to the lack of a bump, you can easily keep the button pressed around the actuation point, so actuation and release are just 0.1 of a millimeter and all you do is apply just a bit more force and let go.
Think of this as flappy birds keyboard style :P
There are a few "tester kits" which come with all sorts of switches, but they are not cheap. Like the typical 6 key ones are over $15, which I find a bit expensive.
This one is cheaper, at $13, but only has 4: red, brown, blue, black.
Black = red with more force needed to press
Brown = reds (some say they have a tactile bump but no click, I say bullshit, they are indistinguishable to reds).
Cooler Master has one with 6, which adds the greens and the clears).
My pleasure! I'm always happy to help.
Here's what I've got at the moment:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | *Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | $174.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $56.99 @ Newegg
Memory | *Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $62.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $53.99 @ Amazon
Case | Azza SIRIUS ATX Mid Tower Case | $19.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | LG 22MP55HQ-P 60Hz 22.0" Monitor | $119.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Rosewill Apollo RK-9100xR Wired Gaming Keyboard | $74.99 @ Newegg
Other| 770 from friend| $200.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $860.91
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-17 00:20 EDT-0400 |
Depending on whether your friend cuts his price a bit (which would be a pretty reasonable request, as [a new one is only $20 more than that at the moment] (http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-n7702gd5oc)), this could fit into budget as-is, or it could be tinkered with until it did. The keyboard is more placeholder, as until you try out some different switch types (either by going into Best Buy/Frys/what have you and noodling around on the display models, borrowing one, or ordering a [switch] (http://www.cmstore-usa.com/mechanical-key-switch-demo-board/) [sampler] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8)) you won't know what you actually prefer (I initially expect to like Blacks and Browns and detest Blues and Reds, but in fact I ultimately found that the opposite was true).
Razer's Kailh switches are sort of a knock-off of the Cherry MX switches.
Your common switches that you'll probably find in keyboards under $150 are Red, Blue, Brown, and Black.
This video actually gives you a pretty good idea of the sound, and you can almost tell how they'll feel.
This image shows the technical difference in how they feel.
Since I'm not familiar with the Kaihl switches, this is the best I can do for you: If they were clicky, they were closer to Blues. If they were bumpy, they were closer to Browns. If they were just linear and had no tactile feedback, they were probably close to Reds.
You can even try this to decide on the switch, since you probably don't want to invest so much money on a keyboard you won't completely like. It covers the 4 common switches.
Once you decide which switches you want, you need to decide what size you want. Usually Tenkeyless keyboards like the one I linked will be a little less in price, but you'd have to give up your numpad. If you're okay with that, then I recommend it since it's also more ergonomic.
This is the back lit version of the keyboard I linked you. This one comes with Blue switches.
Edit: So I just looked into the Razer Kaihl switches, and the closest thing that you'll get is MX Cherry Blues (for clicky switches) and MX Cherry Reds (for silent switches). Most people actually prefer Cherry to Kaihl.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO5IaAKTKsQ&amp;app=desktop
But in all seriousness, its the feel. The feel of a mechanical keyboard over a membrane/rubber dome is amazing. The satisfying click, or lack thereof if you so prefer. The tactile bump, or lack thereof if you so prefer. The feel of the key hitting the bottom of the keyboard (AKA bottoming-out) or the lack thereof if you so prefer.
Mechanical keyboards are very customizable in both geneotype and phenotype. You are able to have them feel whatever way you want, depending on the switch-type you buy, and they can be heavy or soft, if you want them that way, again, switch-type.
If you want to try out the most popular key switches, there is This, it also includes O-rings, which prevent the keys from bottoming out, as I mentioned above. However, you will really only notice bottoming-out on MX clears and maybe MX reds if you are keen, but the O-rings add another layer of quality, again, if you so prefer. So, you know how they can be customizable in the genotype perspective. So, what about phenotype?
No matter what mechanical keyboard you get, you can customize the way it looks.
http://i.imgur.com/R3jSeX4.jpg
http://imgur.com/a/xK2Uv
http://i.imgur.com/1yhF5zk.gif
http://i.imgur.com/jFH4ao2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Zlv7RyG.jpg
here are some examples that I like.
Honestly, when you get a mechanical keyboard, you will be kicking yourself for not getting one sooner.
Basic run-down
You can buy a test kit that comes with all the switches that come with Cherry MX keyboards to find a preference. Blue and Reds are fairly popular from what I know, but /r/MechanicalKeyboards have more in-depth information about everything you need to know about them.
I'd try and split your money in half- $100-$120 on a mouse (however some of the best mice can be under this budget), and then $130-$150 on the keyboard. For mice you need to know what sort of mouse you prefer to narrow down your choices (Size? Weight? Sensitivity? Macros?). You might want to also check out what pro players of your favourite game genre use. If you're an FPS fan, look up CSGO professionals' mice, MOBA/RTS? Check DOTA2 or LoL. Professional players often use mice that are durable, precise, and extremely comfortable to use during long practice sessions.
For some (me included), mechanical keyboards are like SSD's. Once you've had one, you'll never go back. There are many different switch types though and it ultimately comes down to personal taste as to which one suits you best. So the best advice I can give you is to try before you buy. If you're unable to try one in store or at a friends house, it might be worth considering a cherry switch sampler such as this.
As for recommending a specific keyboard, I'd suggest heading over to r/mechanicalkeyboards, as there are people there who know much more than me. I can say, however, that I have a Corsair K95 and I'm very pleased with the build quality, feel and aesthetics but (having come from the mighty (in it's day) logitech G11 complete with it's software) I feel that Corsair's software has a lot of room for improvment.
It's a mechanical key tester. http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418139200&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mechanical+key+test
Try this. Ducky one is definitely the way to go
There are lots of good monitors out there. BenQ makes some nice ones (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824014377) or AOC (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160167&amp;cm_re=AOC-_-24-160-167-_-Product).
For the keyboard I would recommend anything with mechanical switches. There are some nice cooler master ones (Quickfire Rapid if you want tenkey-less or Quickfire XT if you want full size). What I would recommend for this is to go to /r/mechanicalkeyboards and make a post there asking for recommendations. You may also want to check out on amazon, this: (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425488621&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Mechanical+sampler). That way you can try out Mx blacks, reds, blues and browns.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor | $394.98 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI X99S SLI Plus ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard | $166.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $167.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $51.98 @ Newegg
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card | $329.99 @ Newegg
Case | Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case | $65.89 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | $14.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $102.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1543.72
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1503.72
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-04 11:58 EST-0500 |
THANK YOU!
I was mere seconds from clicking Confirm, but something told me to check the comments here, and I'm glad I did.
I think I want browns too, but I'm not sure. Going by what I've read, Reds would be acceptable, but I would prefer Browns.
I found this thing and ordered it instead!
I think he's talking about this. And here is a smaller/cheaper one.
You probably want to try a switch tester first, I originally wanted Browns from the description but in reality they didn't feel good to me so I went with Reds instead. This one has the common Cherry switches.
To find the right key
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E71W4O8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479629169&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=mechanical+keyboard+test&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=410pegMVzoL&amp;ref=plSrch
I dont think you can get good stuff for that money, unless you buy used, which is not worth it in my opinion.
I havent seen a lot of 720p projectors working, but for a little more, you can get an Acer H5380BD for 430 dollars on amazon
Its close of your budget, but if it was me I would save for a 1080p projector... 720p on a 100"+ screen, wont look that nice, but it would look better than the one you selected first, in both resolution and light output
Mine is a 720P projector that has been my principle TV since I started this project. I've had no problems using it for gaming, but it was specifically chosen because it was so good for that purpose.
Don't have all the answers but I do have some. I just got through piecing together a system for my one bedroom apartment.
This is the projector you are going to buy. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I0VRE6E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452047986&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=acer+h5380bd
You will not. I repeat, you will not find a better quality to price ratio in any other model. For $383 shipped to your door you get...
720p native resolution. 16:9 aspect ratio 17000:1 contrast ratio 3000 ansi lumens 5000 (standard) lamp life along with 3d capability if that's your thing. It's not mine but it's available and that's nice right?
I bought that for $293 refurbished from their outlet store. So sub $300...Jesus Christ the value is unreal dude. Unreal.
I paired it with an elite screen 100" manual pull down 16:9 HD 4k screen for $78. It's crazy.
I decided to mount mine so I got a $25 ceiling mount. The total is $400 and you have a setup that will give any home theater fan a boner.
Now, Audio.
I picked this up today for $420.
Klipsch sf-2 towers(2 black)
Ksw10 sub
HK avr154 receiver
Truth be told. I'm planning on selling the sub (because I'm in an apartment) and buying a set of surrounds. Want to buy it? $100! lol
I really wanted to keep it under $800 for everything but with new speaker wires, a dark red matte paint for the walls and speaker wire I'm at $860.
This setup is pretty damn future proof as well. It's been out a few years already and will continue to be the best bang for the buck until they no longer make them.
There is my sub $900 home theater setup.
If I sell the sub for $100 (should be easy) I could grab a set of MB652 airs for the rears at $90 shipped.
I plan on making a post next week with pictures and more so if you have any questions feel free. I did extensive research on everything and am very happy with every single purchase.
I'm thinking about getting this projector for gaming/ Redzone! Anyone have any experience with projectors?
Why not go for the Optoma GT1080 its the best choice I see right now.
http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-Theater-Projector-Enabled/dp/B00MK39P92/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410824735&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=optoma+hd70
I have the "last years model" and I love it. It's too bad it's a little above your price ceiling, because you would have no regrets.
A proper TV costs as much as a good projector. Not talking about top projector of course, but you can get a good Full HD projector for $549. This projector can throw a massive screen, even during the day.
http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-Theater-Projector-Enabled/dp/B00MK39P92
Swap out your old projector for this one, get yourself a chromecast, done and you're just a little over $600 with a nice projector that has some longevity, and you're not in too much with the chromecast if/when you decide to replace it with something.
Don't waste your money as they're terrible at home cinema - put it towards getting a proper projector instead. The previous model of something like the Optoma HD141x should be cheap secondhand.
Just be careful if getting a DLP that you're not susceptible to the rainbow effect.
I've been really happy with this one. Haven't tried 3-D, don't care about it either, but the picture is very nice, I have 245 hours on the lamp, and it's going strong.
Optoma HD141X 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MK39P92/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0BzJwbZX48AKM
This would be the cheapest I would be willing to go, regular price I mean. Optima Hd141x. If you are willing to go refurb there are cheaper quality models
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MK39P92/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468522673&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=optoma+hd141x&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41pU-DOAShL&amp;ref=plSrch
I have been a projector guy since the CRT days, picked one of these up about a year ago. Running a 112' image the 3D mostly rivals the impact of commercial theater 3D, mainly what sets them apart is the lumen output is far lower than commercial projectors so you need to be able to control the lighting situation in the room to get the most out of them. The bang for the buck these days in the projector market is pretty incredible.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MK39P92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
check this one out. This is the one i have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MK39P92?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Q: So the cases I've been looking at (Corsair 100r, 400c, SPEC-03) all have 2 USB 3.0 ports. My keyboard and mouse will take up both of these ports leaving none for my bluetooth receiver for headphones/other uses of USB. What is the best way to increase the number of ports? If I use this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Release-Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464628237&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+dock) and connect everything to that, will that have any negatives in performance/speed/danger? Or is it better to get a big 5.25" thing to go in the front of the computer (where you would typically get a cd-drive: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EasySMX-Multifunctional-Internal-Reader-Support/dp/B019GFJ604/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464628433&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=5.25%22+front+panel)? I've heard for that you need extra headers(?) in the motherboard? For reference I'm planning on getting the Asus H110M-K motherboard. Thanks :)
I mean a usb 3.0 Addaptor that connects to a usb 3.0 port that has 4 usb ports on the end of it
I.e this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0B8iDbD6VWMF8
Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Macbook, Mac Pro/mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, Notebook PC, USB Flash Drives, Mobile HDD, and More https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YnE0CbC2FZ71Z
I bought this and it also works with the rift Anker Ultra Slim 4-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_GcAkVlni1evqj
Sure. USB Hub and card reader
Fair enough. I prefer having the PC on the ground, while using a USB hub like the one below to allow me to easily plug in devices without having to reach:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00Y25XFGK/
This way I get a neater table and more space to put stuff.
This is the way I did it:
I don't have Bluetooth, or Aux, so I also got this:
Roku > Fire stick in my experience.
Go with fixed screen whenever possible
if you can spend a little more go with a BenQ HT2050
Thanks for the suggestion! The one in the screen shot just happened to be the most popular one in the gaming category so it’s on top. I’d be looking at a 4K one for gaming eventually just thought I’d check some prices right now. Currently, I have an Optoma that I got from amazon a few years ago for about $500 if I remember right. Don’t have any complaints.
You can probably start getting entry level 1080p for that price.
This is generally a well received projector.
https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-Lumens-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6#a-sheet-web-pldn-dynamic-campaign-bottomsheet
Edit: that's not to say it's flawless, but I think this is good for the price.
Actually did find this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQCF6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_R3bOAbPHGP8XK
But I heard the "rainbow effect" is bad with fast moving images
It would be a waste of money. You can get the projector I linked above for ~$600. Here's the updated version for $550, actually https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-Lumens-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6. Anything in the range you posted will be Chinese garbage that runs at 720p with upscaling, at best.
If $550 is out of budget, take that $250 you were going to spend and stick it in a jar or something. Keep adding to it until you're at $550 + some room for cables/mount/screen. Then there's also cost of speakers, since projector speaker sounds worse than ringtone speaker on a Nokia 3310. My setup was very on the budget (Believe it or not, $600 for a projector that is native 1080p and actually can be visible in different lighting and produce a quality image is extremely cheap. I am looking to upgrade this holiday season and upgrade options go from $2500+. Even this is peanuts, considering my family just spent $10,000 on a 4K Sony projector for their new movie room) and came out to right about $1000 with projector, screen, cables and ceiling mount. That is ONLY because I had $5,000 worth of existing sound components and didn't have to buy any speakers/subs.
Bottom line is, projectors themselves can be cheap, but you need to add a lot of other things that usually come with TV sets (speakers/mounting/surface to project on/possibly extra long cables/in-wall wiring if you want it to be neat). If money is a problem, TV is an easier solution that comes with everything at a cost of smaller surface.
Edit: If you do only use it for PS4 and by yourself, all sound-related costs can be minimized to buying PS Golds or some sort of headphones that work for you and are compatible with PS4. If you do intend to play with friends, speakers, or at least a sound bar will be mandatory, unless you want to listen to a single 20W mono speaker attempt to recreate 5.1 sound.
The Optoma HD142X in general is a better projector which of course, have been proven by many already.
link to Amazon Page I bought it from
the GOP playbook
OPTOMA TECHNOLOGY GT1080Darbee 1080p 3000 Lumens 3D DLP Short Throw Gaming Projector, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHG92Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M9XVCbPCB4QPA
Great projector. Really love the Short throw aspects
I recently bought a tiny wireless usb adapter from amazon and its the strongest signal i've ever had! I was worried with it being so cheap that it wouldnt work but im getting a solid 72 MB (my maximum in my area) download speed
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Foktech-802-11ac-Wireless-Network-10-4-10-13/dp/B06XZ5B5G9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=70PH88O94K0X&keywords=wireless+network+adapter&qid=1562676459&s=gateway&sprefix=wireless+netwo%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-3
I have this one, really cheap but it's dual-band and has a max speed that's more than most people's fibre broadband. I have really low ping aswell couldn't fault it really.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Foktech-802-11ac-Wireless-Network-10-4-10-13/dp/B06XZ5B5G9/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539341122&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=wifi+adapter&amp;psc=1
I will try to change channel first, then. The dongle will probably be a must-buy, if having a 2.4 Ghz network card is so crippling in densely populated areas (I mean, London lol). Thank you with the router reccomendations as well.
Would something like this be okay? (First result on Amazon)
I just posted this same reply elsewhere but my top two options if you can go to the $500 range are Optoma HD 143X for $499 and Epson 2150 for $699.
Recently picked up an Epson 2150. Completely exceed my expectations. Under 700 on Amazon.
Look at the silver ticket screens too!
WHOA, LOOKS LIKE THE PRICE WENT UP (just ordered last week)
Epson Home Cinema 2150 Wireless 1080p Miracast, 3LCD projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FLKWSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_cLxWBbYD5ZXV6
Epson Home Cinema 2150 Wireless 1080p Miracast, 3LCD projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FLKWSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_cLxWBbYD5ZXV6
Not sure if this affects your decision to keep the Darbee, but the Epson 2150 regularly drops to $699.
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Epson-Cinema-Wireless-Miracast-projector/product/B074FLKWSY
When Amazon drops it to $699 Best Buy, NewEgg, etc will usually price drop at the same time.
There is that Anker can shaped battery operated combo projector, android device and speaker. That plus a basic screen and you're good to go.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Projector-High-Contrast-Playtime/dp/B076Q3GBJK
I think this would work great for what you want.
https://www.amazon.com/Projector-Anker-Portable-High-Contrast-Playtime/dp/B076Q3GBJK/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525715783&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=anker+projector
Looks like this is around what this dude was using, If you look around a bit more you might find something cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hologram+fan&amp;qid=1556227492&amp;s=office-products&amp;sr=1-4
“Basic” LED fan costs $800 😒
Vankyo Leisure 3 (Upgraded... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078KF8CSX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Screen: https://www.amazon.com/JaeilPLM-Projector-Compatible-Wrinkle-Free-Projection/dp/B010M0AH0A/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536262179&sr=1-4&keywords=outdoor+movie+screen
Projector: https://www.amazon.com/vankyo-Leisure-Upgraded-Projector-Compatible/dp/B078KF8CSX/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536262210&sr=1-6&keywords=projector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078KF8CSX/
This is in your price range but the contrast ratio might not be high enough for your needs.
You don't have to imagine anymore. This isn't the 50's. This is the mothafuckin' future.
Reviews are easy to fake on Amazon. It's a piece of junk. 480p resolution is the only spec you need to know.
https://reviewmeta.com/amazon/B078KF8CSX
Optoma HD141x is $550 after $50 rebate right now.
http://smile.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-Theater-Projector-Enabled/dp/B00MK39P92?sa-no-redirect=1
896 reviews for ya
$1k-$1,500. What other pictures would you like? I was thinking of this screen. http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Ticket-HDTV-16-Projector/dp/B00CYLOTPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420319949&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=projector+screen
And this projector:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MK39P92/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420320858&amp;sr=8-1&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41pU-DOAShL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
I have this projector, and it’s really nice. No input lag that I can notice. Unfortunately, it’s like $900 now for whatever reason, but the newer model is $500, so that could be an option for you. Only has two HDMI inputs though, which might be a downside.
Are you the United States? Here's a used 141x for $384. It's Amazon so if there is a ton of time on the lamp or the damage is more than cosmetic then you can return it. I think thats about the best you can do for value.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00MK39P92/ref=sr_1_10_olp?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450479414&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=projector&amp;condition=used
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MK39P92/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1451977087&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=optima+hd+projector+1080p&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41pU-DOAShL&amp;ref=plSrch
I bought this optima about a year ago for $600 and run it at 100" you can see it perfectly even in a well lit room with natural light during the day at night with the lights off it is better of course. You can go up to 300" it has 2 hdmi ports I use it for my xbox sometimes and as a third monitor for my pc. For the price you can't beat it. Games and movies look great on it. Do not buy a cheap projector that claims to be HD you will be very dissapointed. A lot claim to be 1080p but have a tiny resolution and your image will be fuzzy or pixelated.
The HD141X is actually the current top selling 1080p home theater projector on Amazon. Check out the reviews for more information about how others are using it. We'd also recommend using Projector Central's calculator to estimate your mounting distance. For your 120" screen, you will need to mount the HD141X 13'6" from the screen.
If you have any questions about the HD141X or any other Optoma projectors, let us know.
Here’s the link to the one I got
Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other Devices https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kuTKAbNQGKDWT
This isn't the first time I've read of an issue with the front USB on an X. Sounds like there could me a minor issue with them.
This guy seems to have power but no data on his front port
https://www.reddit.com/r/xboxone/comments/7bivn7/tech_xbox_one_x_front_usb_port_doesnt_work_with/
Looks like you have data but no power (it detects the controller but won't charge)
You could get a hub for the rear ports, something like this;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-4-Port-Ultra-Drives-Devices/dp/B00Y25XFGK
Might be the wrong place, but whatever.
If I get a USB 3.0 USB hub, will it work with a keyboard, mouse, wired Xbox 360 controller and a headset?
Specifically this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Release-Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468740490&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+hub
Because it’s a wired connection. Legit just plug a USB 3.0 hub in to you USB port on the side of your Xbox. By hub I mean a usb cable with a couple of ports attached to the other end. usb hub That’s what I’m talking about. Then you could use any high end keyboard you want to.
This is the Hub that I use and I haven't had any issues
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-4-Port-Ultra-Drives-Devices/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503074120&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+3+port
Hey bro thanks for reply!
Sorry I forgot to mention my main PC has Motherboard Asus Maximus VII Gene with 4 x USB 3.0 also there are 2 x USB 3.0 on the case so in total 6 x USB 3.0
> Common wisdom says you can connect 4 drives per header before you start experiencing any real performance dips.
If I was to purchase the following item:- (Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-4-Port-Ultra-Drives-Devices/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522181116&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+4+hub
Does that mean I can attach 4 external hard drives on each of the available ports on PC, so in total 6x4=24 hard drives? If yes, would that affect any performance?
When it comes to Pool I found out about: https://burst.cryptoguru.org/ not sure if that is any good?
Also when using Turbo Plotter when I have multiple HD's does it auto detect "nonce" or does it need to be done manually?
I bought one of these and have the 3 sensors hooked up to it and the fourth port powers the cooling pad for the laptop. Works perfectly. Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub for Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and Other... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_e7W8AbV5SEVSV
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-4-Port-Ultra-Drives-Devices/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525547370&sr=8-2&keywords=ps4+usb+hub
would that work with it ?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00Y25XFGK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
My USB set up is (Let's see if this text formats correctly ...):
Left Port AW15R3 --> Dell Monitor --> Anker Hub --> 2x Oculus Sensors, 1x MS Controller Dongle
|
--> Anker Hub --> Other junk
|
--> Other junk
Right Port AW15R3 --> Rift
I have an Anker one that is USB 3.0 and particularly slim and low cost. Would recommend https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00Y25XFGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481917727&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41uOTgf2POL&amp;ref=plSrch
Would something like this work http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00Y25XFGK?keywords=usb%203%200%20hub&amp;qid=1452068130&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1 ?
benq2050
Hey 3 months late but am considering getting the BenQ HT2050 from amazon here. Got great average review. Did you end up getting the BenQ or the Epson? How do you like it?
I don't have total light control (I'm gonna put it in a living room) so am worried a bit. I'll put blackout curtains that can be drawn when am using it though.
have you had any experience with this projector?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016JYOQ3W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=GAP1PBBGDKRX&amp;coliid=I1RD6FT2SBBVI1
My recliners are 13' from my screen. My screen is a 125", which is about 9' in width.
I have a BenQ W1070 as my PJ and a tensioned, motorized Elite Screens as my screen.
The W1070 is discontinued but their HT2050 is the successor to it. I love my W1070 and it's regarded as one of the best PJs you can buy under $1000.
My screen was $570 shipped. I've had no issues with it and installing it was super easy and fast. Mounted two screws to two studs and hung it. I programmed my Harmony remote to be able to raise and lower it.
Ok that makes sense. What do you think of this BenQ It says it can do 100' screen at 8.2 feet away.
Interested in this here, might have to save for awhile though
BenQ HT2050
Product Image
I scoured the web high and low -- in search of your linked pic,
I looked around and soon I found
your item -- that was quick!
Here is this item's information as of 12-8-2016
Product Link: BenQ DLP HD 1080p Projector (HT2050) - 3D Home Theater Projector with All-Glass Cinema Grade Lens and RGBRGB Color Wheel
Rating: 4-5/5 stars
Incorrect Image | Get A Bot
Product Image
I scoured the web high and low -- in search of your linked pic,
I looked around and soon I found
your item -- that was quick!
The above is this item's information as of 12-8-2016
Product Image: BenQ DLP HD 1080p Projector (HT2050) - 3D Home Theater Projector with All-Glass Cinema Grade Lens and RGBRGB Color Wheel
Rating: 4-5/5 stars
---------------------------------------------------
^Incorrect ^Image ^| ^Get ^A ^Bot
That's a big ask for a 150" screen. Maybe an Optomoa HD142X ($100 over your budget) but that's 1080p and actually nice and bright (not reference image quality but its cheap and super bright).
https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-Lumens-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
Cheaper than that Acer has a decentish 720p projector for $450: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPAKKY2/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00I0VRE6E&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwpuresimula-20&linkId=DJTW4J2N355YOSLV&th=1
Thank you! That is one of the top three I have been looking at. The other which is a little under 600 is
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQCF6R6/ref=psdc_300334_t1_B016JYOQ3W.
Both have very good reviews so I am looking for people like you who have had projectors for some time to lead me in the right direction :)
For less than $600 you could buy a projector like this one.
Hi everyone, I've been looking at getting a projector for a while now, and I'm extremely confused about specs and price ranges. Hoping you can clear it up for me some.
I would like to have one for gaming on my PC, as well as netflix and such. I have a fairly high end gaming rig that easily runs most games at 1080p/60fps on my monitor, and I want to be able to get the same results through a projector(60 Hz or better refresh rate).
I've looked around and found a number of different projectors at quite different price points. I am hoping to stay under $1000 Canadian.
Here are a few that I've found:
-Optoma HD27- $889 CAD
-Optoma HD142X- $779 CAD
-BenQ W1070- $1444 CAD
-Optoma GT1080- $787 CAD
-Epson 2040- $996 CAD
I see a lot of threads of people saying trying to get a good projector for under $1000 is not a good idea- can anyone help me out with these choices and tell me which one is best, and if I really need to spend more?
If you have any other suggestions besides the ones I've listed, please let me know! Thanks!
Hello all.
This will be my first foray into the audio world so I apologize in advance for any frustration going through this comment.
I’m looking for speakers to use for music and tv.
My budget is ~700 usd and I live in a very small space so don’t need lots of power.
For music, I primarily listen to jazz and folk with a smattering of hip hop, some opera and classical. I don’t really listen to electronic(?) music and prefer mid-range string instruments, piano and I focus most on vocals. Love lower female voices and higher male voices.
I don’t regularly enjoy symphonies or electronic music or songs with booming bass as the centerpiece.
For tv, I just need sound to be present- no frills. The one caveat though is that it needs to play nice with my projector Optoma HD 142x which just has a 3.5mm audio out and two HDMI. Thinking of using with a bluetooth adapter.. But concerned this will give rise to syncing issues - might be more of a question for r/hometheaters, but if anyone has any experience please chime in!
The source for my music will primarily be my desktop and streaming apps on my phone. For tv, it’ll be computer/Chromecast/Firestick (all HDMI).
So based on some preliminary digging, seems various Edifier, Elac Debut and Dali Zensor come highly recommended on reddit for this price range..
I’m leaning more toward the Dali Zensor 1 because of the smaller size and looks.. But I’m not sure what amp I should get with it. Or if I should stay away from passives in the first place.
My dad, who lives overseas, was playing with the idea of sending me his Synthesis Flame (they stopped making this one I believe? Please chime in if you have any info/opinions). He said it would be good as a starter amp and it sounded nice with his Elacs. But shipping would be 200 or so and he sort of changed his mind and said I may as well buy one here in the US for that price, and that he can see some people getting tired of the Flame imparting warm/bright qualities to music.
So then I’m considering the Dali Zensor 1 AX which has a built in amp and bluetooth capability. I think I will enjoy learning and futzing around with different speakers, amps, sources and whatnot, but an active speaker with limited inputs (no USB, electrical digital or even standard stereo RCA inputs according to audiofi.net) will put a damper on developing this hobby..
What are your suggestions? Active? Passive? What speakers? What amp?
Side note: I’m a bit of a romantic so I think tube amps are really cool and the Synthesis Flame especially is pretty damn sexy. But do let me know if you think a digital amp would be considerably more practical.
PS - Please feel free to ramble, go off on tangents, correct me and potentially over-explain. Really trying to learn here! It’s been a thrill having father daughter time over one of his few hobbies :D
Yeah, I hear that. I don't blame you, especially because $200 can otherwise be spent on better speakers, or something. How is your audio setup?
I went to Amazon.com and found that they're selling the BenQ W1070 for $519.
Here are some other options, if your budget is in that $500-$700 range:
Optoma HD 142X
Optoma GT1080p
The one I picked up was the Epson Home Cinema 2045 (which I bought from Best Buy actually)
I own an Optoma HD142x The picture is amazing and it was ranked as #1 in many reviews. If you intend to watch 3d movies/play games, I think you can't find a better money/quality ratio.
edit, I saw now that your throw distance is 2.1m, that will give you a picture of 165cm diagonal with the optoma
Why a projector? A Tv could de 1080p 60fps for $1k cad
I chose [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-Lumens-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6) one. can't see refresh rate tho.
This was my first projector so I didn't want to drop a bunch of cash. I've had it for over a year and it's actually great.
Optoma HD142X 1080p 3000 Lumens 3D DLP Home Theater Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQCF6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q85bBb3WP7ESR
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQCF6R6
Non referral link.
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Optoma-HD142X-Lumens-Theater-Projector/product/B01HQCF6R6
Not a bad price though.
This is pretty good for the price.
I'm using an Optima HD142X https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQCF6R6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Great value and the picture quality is awesome. If you wait until it gets really dark outside you can probably get away with a cheaper one. I haven't bought into building a dedicated screen yet but for now I'm using a huge painter's canvas drop cloth I bought at Lowes. It works great for what I'm doing. You would think that the canvas cloth would lower picture quality but you don't even notice it. The projector has enough lumens to give you great clarity and color. We play games and watch movies out here on the weekends. For sound I'm using a JBL charge 2+. Plenty of volume for what we're doing. I may get some nice outdoor speakers eventually. I'm a bit of an audiophile. You should see my HTPC setup.
If there's leftovers on the grill, it's right there too! A cooler of drinks near us and the night is set! My wife bought us an outdoor bed/hammock type thing that we can "sleep" on too. :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016LEB7G4/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_1?colid=1FV4MFE9CP7ZC&amp;coliid=I2MLPEVAA5S39Z -th670
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H4ZLI4U/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=1FV4MFE9CP7ZC&amp;coliid=I1OUPCQ5BUY3IK&amp;vs=1 - ex9200
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TNYDI4O/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_3?colid=1FV4MFE9CP7ZC&amp;coliid=I2Y3HOEBA9P62J&amp;vs=1 -epson 2030
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HQCF6R6/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_4?colid=1FV4MFE9CP7ZC&amp;coliid=I8N46Z71BWK5N - optoma hd142x
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JR7G672/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_10?colid=1FV4MFE9CP7ZC&amp;coliid=I3DG58RXGSYV0I&amp;vs=1 - optoma hd27
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01HQCF6R6/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
400 dollars
check and message if it is real
It is actually doable.
Projector
Screen
Fair enough. If I knew it was going to be coming out so soon, I probably would have gone for the Note 8, but I'm liking the S8 just fine so far.
I'm also rather liking the Dex Station so far, which I find somewhat surprising. With a 256GB SD card and 64GB onboard memory, its an amazing video player for if you have a TV / large monitor handy.
I'm actually eyeing this little toy for use with the Dex Station. https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-T20-Projector-Multimedia-Smartphone/dp/B01LZRUY6Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504018468&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=micro+projector
I just bought one of these for that exact purpose. Work good enough. Note: it's not 1080p but that didn't matter for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZRUY6Q/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
best short throw for the price and specs that I found is this one.
It's DLP but a)I don't think any of the animations I'll be projecting move bright whites quickly and b) if it does... it might look badass actually.
Out of curiosity though, what spec would I need to look at to see how bad the rainbow effect will be?
The new Darbee version iS on sale:
https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-GT1080Darbee-Lumens-Gaming-Projector/dp/B06XHG92Y5
Try Newegg for no tax
No necesariamente. Con un proyector de tiro corto no necesitas más que un par de metros para tener una pantalla de unas 200 pulgadas. Yo uso este pero también este otro es bastante bueno. Los instalas en el techo o en una mesa y tienen una corrección de verticales bastante buena.
Thanks. See this one, although it doesn’t have Ethernet if that matters.
Optoma GT1080Darbee 1080p 3000 Lumens 3D DLP Short Throw Gaming Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHG92Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5qo5Bb1P063P1
Optoma short throw gaming projector for $690.
Update: This is the projector I'm using!
Cheers. Actually I think its the other way around. Gamers are particular about resolutions so they usually go for higher res. Business office users are somewhat mostly looking for better brightness contrast 🤔 but I would defo agree with future proof part. Defo shud get atleast a 720p native if you have res in mind 👍how about optoma gt1080 its a good allrounder but definitely a slightly pricier hence 1080 native 3d ready etc. Must check it out here is the link mate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHG92Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CcwXBbJ5ADT6G
Right on the wall where the kids are looking at tv. I don't have another view but it looks to be atleast 10-12 feet away which is optimum distance for most projectors for a 100-120 inch screen. You could also get a short throw projector and just place it on the table if you don't fancy hanging/mounting one.
I just setup my theater using this on a 100 inch silver ticket screen. Pretty amazing thus far. I have the projector about 4 feet away on the bottom level of a coffee table. It's a short throw projector so you can place them in a variety of ways close to the wall.
Here's a comment I made not too long ago - -
I don't know if this is what you are looking for but...
I have been using this projector since Winter 2018:
Optoma GT1080Darbee 1080p 3000 Lumens 3D DLP Short Throw Gaming Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHG92Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_wjigLjdsijbj2
With the following screen:
STR-169120 Silver Ticket 120" Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen White Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYLOTPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_IDOEqvhvuHT7d
The only gripe that I have with the screen is, if the image is sharp in the center, the corners tend to be just slightly blurry. If text is clear in the center, then it is blurry in the corners. It's tolerable.
And vice-versa: if text is sharp in the corners, then it is slightly blurry in the center.
For my uses, this isn't a problem. I use the projector for gaming and watching videos/TV. PC Gaming and Console Gaming, I haven't noticed any latency issues between controller input and the display.
It's only when I am typing into the URL in the Web Browser at the top of the screen do I notice these blurry issues.
Ill try to post one tomorrow if I remember. You can switch pretty fast...only annoying thing if youre familar with youtube tv is that when you hover over it the bottom selection stuff will come up and you have to move your mouse to the side to get it to just show the video. When you have 4 windows on the screen you just have to be precise with the mouse lol (especially if you want to unmute/mute a certain one). You get the hang of it though.
This is the projector I got...I do a lot of gaming and needed a short throw since my ceiling is kinda low and I didnt want to hang one anyone. Its great and isnt very expensive. Im sure in a few years Ill get a 4k one when 4k is the standard everything streams in but thats not the case right now by any means so this is perfectly fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHG92Y5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry, this is one is over your budget at $600 but the Iptoma GT1080Darbee is on sale at the moment (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XHG92Y5). Great value.
Got this https://www.amazon.co.uk/802-11ac-Wireless-Network-Adapter-10-4-10-12/dp/B06XZ5B5G9 in my laptop now, works with Windows out of the box just not with Tails and I don't have a clue how to get it working
I'm guessing this would do the job? Foktech Wifi Dongle, AC600 802.11ac Dual Band 5GHz Mini Wireless Network USB Wifi Adapter for PC Desktop Laptop, Support Windows 10/8/7/Vista/XP/2000, Mac Os X 10.5-10.13 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XZ5B5G9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hV1ZCb842SMFJ
Sorry for the slow reply mate, went to the gym! Here's the link Foktech Wifi Dongle, AC600... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XZ5B5G9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Really appreciate the help pal!
Would a USB dongle like this not do a decent job? I certainly do want a very stable connection with good speed since I get 110mbps DL. I will swap to the better MOBO if a dongle isnt good enough.
Sorry for late reply, here's a good one
Foktech Wifi Dongle, 150 Mbps 802.11ac Dual Band 5GHz Mini Wireless Network USB Wifi Adapter for PC Desktop Laptop Tablet, Support Windows 10/8/7/Vista/XP/2000, Mac Os X 10.4-10.13 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XZ5B5G9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I.1NBb5TDKT5T
nope this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Foktech-802-11ac-Wireless-Network-10-5-10-13/dp/B06XZ5B5G9
Well sounds like you’d be fine with a 1080p projector then.
The projector you had previously had 2000 lumens and a contrast ratio of 50k:1 meaning it was fairly bright and had pretty good blacks. If I were you, I’d try to stick to food being a projector with a similar contrast ratio as this will be pretty noticeable to you since you’ve lived with one before. The $1,100 is more than enough to find yourself a suitable projector that will have these features. I prefer LCD bulbs for their longevity and lower replacement cost but that’s just my 2¢ - you’ll find many who disagree.
But if your price point is $1100, 4K projectors are starting to appear near that range. You may wish to consider purchasing a 4K projector as it will help increase its longevity as more and more media will move towards 4K. Plus, 4K projectors usually have pretty great contrast ratios.
That being said, I rock an epson 2030 and it’s totally fine for me as I don’t do 4K and watch mostly when it’s dark outside.
My advice to you, now that you’re armed with the answers to these questions is to head to projector central and explore their home theater by budget categories (top left set of links). This site has more knowledge than could possibly be useful to one person.
I’d say you’d love an epson 2150 and it would probably fit all your needs and you’d love it. It can be had for just under $800 on epsons website or on Amazon
Take all this with salt as I’m not expert but just trying to be helpful. Let us know what you eventually settle on.
Google pico projector
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Projector-High-Contrast-Playtime/dp/B076Q3GBJK/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519776203&amp;sr=1-2-spons&amp;keywords=pico+projector&amp;psc=1
Or smaller but lower specs,
https://www.amazon.com/Projector-Anker-Portable-High-Contrast-Playtime/dp/B076Q3GBJK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=anker+capsule&amp;qid=1569519056&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Anker nebula capsule.
https://www.seenebula.com
I use mine with my RetroPi setup all the time. And also use with my laptop for quick office meetings.
Regularly on sale on Amazon or Woot for 229-249. Also doubles as a great Bluetooth speaker.
Nebula Capsule, by Anker, Smart Wi-Fi Mini Projector, Black, 100 ANSI Lumen Portable Projector, 360° Speaker, Movie Projector, 100 Inch Picture, 4-Hour Video Playtime, Outdoor Projector-Watch Anywhere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q3GBJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHaJDbFQTD5MZ
The nebula capsule 2 is 499, but also has higher res.
Mate it to a VGA to HDMI cable and you’re good
Slight tangent -- Anker's portable projector is awesome for when I have to bring my own kit for presentations.
Firestick is mostly to work with Amazon's stuff.
Chromecast will let anything connect to it -- phone apps, desktop, webbrowser tab, etc. -- And keep in mind it will transfer the sound too!
Why not just a TV? For that price you are looking at cheaper quality no name projectors (or used) but you need a short throw projector that a tiny size, and that runs on battery??
Basically you are looking at 720p or 1080p resolution.
https://www.amazon.com/Projector-Anker-Portable-High-Contrast-Playtime/dp/B076Q3GBJK
> Dont waste your time, portable projectors are awful
There are decent portable projectors, they just aren't cheap. For example this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Projector-Anker-Portable-High-Contrast-Playtime/dp/B076Q3GBJK/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538680819&amp;sr=1-5&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A6998472011%2Cp_n_feature_fifteen_browse-bin%3A13670061011%2Cp_36%3A30000-99999999
Obviously there are limitations, but saying they're universally awful is overselling it. I have one of a brand I can't remember off the top of my head that's like 4 years old now and sold for close to $500 that I've used in a modestly lit room for a table to people to collaborate over and it worked well.
Nebula Capsule
https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN/ref=pd_rhf_sc_p_img_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=5CGJAATS3EF0ZDQDS3XG
I can't find my exact model but this one looks just as good or better.
I did some searching on Amazon and I found one that has good reviews. Like I said I'm not trying to be blown away I just want a bigger screen than my current TV. I'm a broke college student so I figured that a cheap projector is better than no projector.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078KF8CSX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c96SBbK1NAQ52
I nought this one about a month ago and its really great! It comes with a case and multiple connection types. I'm not sure if it ships outside the US but it was only $100 and it works perfectly. A bit noisy but nothing that good speakers wont drown out
vankyo Leisure 3 (Upgraded... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078KF8CSX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
You won't get anything super great for $200.00 and under but you can find something that can be used for fun it will not be as good as a "real" projector. though they can give you an image that's as good as your computer screen or tablet in a dark room.
They won't be good enough for the peoplaround here because most people around here are at the flagship level we're talking thousands of dollars worth of gear. Speakers that cast as much as a used car. For one speaker.
The one I will put at the top of the list IS 1080 I don't have any experience with these but plenty of youtubers tend to like these few
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072RK6KQL/ref=psdc_300334_rv_t2_B00XLZ3GD4
not true HD...
https://www.amazon.com/Vamvo-Projector-Portable-Support-Smartphone/dp/B0756ZVYY6
https://www.amazon.com/VANKYO-Projector-Carrying-Portable-Compatible/dp/B07D467KPD/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537117172&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Vankyo+projector
https://www.amazon.com/vankyo-Leisure-Upgraded-Projector-Compatible/dp/B078KF8CSX/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537117172&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=Vankyo+projector
The screen. For $40.00 a screen is a bargain lol.
https://www.amazon.com/VANKYO-100-inch-Collapsible-Projection/dp/B079K9BJR7/ref=sr_1_24?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537117172&amp;sr=1-24&amp;keywords=Vankyo+projector
You gotta get one of these....
https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Upgraded-Portable-Projector-Compatible/dp/B078KF8CSX?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_300334_0&amp;pf_rd_p=cf5761c4-db68-553d-9e2d-392d1e9739ef&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=300334&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=MRC7KBKEG512FQMMQW8M&amp;pf_rd_r=MRC7KBKEG512FQMMQW8M&amp;pf_rd_p=cf5761c4-db68-553d-9e2d-392d1e9739ef
The trick is getting
goodcheap 3rd party bulbs. I have an Epson 8350 and can get bulbs for $22.I'm looking forward to 4K though.
this is the projector i have: https://www.amazon.com/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-Projector/dp/B0044UHJWY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521676832&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=epson+powerlite+home+cinema+8350+projector
Well dang. Sounds like that is hard to beat.
Visual Apex is selling em on amazon now.
Would I need to get the screen to get the gist of how things would really look? (I'm assuming this is obviously, yes, but if I needed to return that as well.. I'm not sure how it would disassemble.)
Actually.. they offer refurbs on VisualApex's site.. :| HMM
I was afraid of that, I'm looking into this option at the moment, https://www.amazon.com/AAXA-Technologies-KP-101-01-Projector-built/dp/B005TAXDPK
I use a Pico Pocket Projector to project the image on to the cookie and “draw” with icing. I like to think of it as adult coloring, using a different medium.
The BenQ is now $700 on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1070-1080P-Theater-Projector/dp/B00A2T6X0K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404772145&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=BenQ+W1070
I use these..
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1070-1080P-Theater-Projector/dp/B00A2T6X0K
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00366S0UW/
MK8 is almost like an imax experience in single player, and multiplayer, everyone has their own 60".
The benq which I own is hovers around $750
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1070-1080P-Theater-Projector/dp/B00A2T6X0K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBM0664/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2T6X0K/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/
There's plenty more to choose from within your price range, but I just posted the ones I've actually researched before making a purchase. All of them are bright enough to replace a TV at around 85-100", and have little-to-no input lag, which is crucial for gaming as you may know. The bulbs will also last you at least 3 years with heavy use.
Stay away from Epson HomeCinema and ProCinema projectors, as they have too much of a delay to be useful for gaming. Not sure about the rest of their line.
EDIT: Check out AVSForum if you have more questions. They'll be able to help you further. That's what I used to help make a decision.
That's what I was thinking...not enough 4k content yet to warrant a purchase, but the temptation is still there.
I've been looking at a BenQ projector...around the same price as the 120Hz Sharp, but I'm afraid of the heat exhaust. I also like the clarity of a tv set. Do you have experience with projectors? Do they give off a lot of heat? I have a converted garage as a room so there's plenty of space.
This is the projector I've been considering. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2T6X0K
The best "non-smart TV" will probably be a projector but the best ones, much like the Ferrari discussion below, are tailored because they know people are getting just the display.
I think the reason you're getting flak is that you're asking, effectively, "I want a car in the Camry price range that is tailored to the way I drive." TV producers, and Camry producers, are going to make something that caters to the highest number of people not something that fits the pro-sumer market. Pro-sumer TVs just don't exist. They will never fit the use case of enough people to be justified. The closest thing out there are the commercial displays, but those are for digital signage (again, suited to the use case) and far beyond your price range.
If you've got a good home theater setup with surrounds and etc, get a projector. Here's a good one for $730. Then get a 120" entry level motorized screen and for $840, you no longer have a Smart TV, and have a 120" display (or there about).
It simply won't look very good. I would suggest upping your budget a bit and going with something like the BenQ W1070.
Personally, I'd look at the W1070 myself :)
Nice, I'm trying to do the same thing for a Halloween Party.
You've been extremely helpful, so shut up and take my money, no seriously sending you a tip for the info.
Prices at Amazon right now:
BenQ 1070
BenQ MH680
The MH680 is $650 right now, not sure if that's some sort of special when the MSRP is $2000 apparently. I just wasn't sure if DLP meant some sort of huge improvement over non-DLP.
The 1070 is $730.
I got the BenQ W1070 1080p 3D Projector
You can't go wrong with that price, but I would suggest a screen over a wall, as the screen's material will give you the best image quality. That won't be too expensive either, somewhere between $100-$150.
I can't speak for GingerWez93 but I also have a large bluray collection and if something is not on bluray I'll usually stream on Amazon, Netflix, Hulu or Google play.
To answer your bluray player question though, I use either a PS3 or PS4 depending on which room I'm in and the PS4 is hooked up to a projector. (This projector to be more specific: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2T6X0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) It looks fantastic.
And for sound I have a fairly generic speaker system (This one: https://www.amazon.com/Genius-GX-Gaming-SW-G2-1-3000-Devices/dp/B007TSRCZM) and it sounds good to me. I'm not very much of an audiophile though so if sound is extremely important to you I would invest in a better sound system.
In my research (am looking into projectors as well) the BenQ W1070 gets consistently high marks <$700USD. 2000 lumens, does 3D, and 1080P resolution.
Here's the Amazon link
"high quality" and "affordable" doesn't usually mix well when you're talking projectors. But maybe take a look at the BenQ W1070
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1070-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00A2T6X0K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452599228&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=benq+w1070
to stay in a budget, but with the requirement of 1080p i think the best retail deal is the benq w1070
and as for drop down screens, elite screens are supposed to be good but you would need to measure to figure out what size works for you
but going to /r/projectors will serve you a lot better than a one off comment from me, gl
i think your main frustration will be that most setups focus on multiple inputs with one output. here you need multiple outputs. that might mean using built in sound for the two 50s with a speaker setup for the projector, or it might mean some sort of switcher.
If you keep an eye on this sub there has been a couple of decent sales on the BenQ w1070. Currently only $672 on Amazon. It should do what you want and at 1080p.
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1070-1080P-Theater-Projector/dp/B00A2T6X0K
Amazon link in title.
B&H Link.
Price History Link.
[My projector] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9S3OOC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_PRUvxb0B9CDMQ).
I used it for the past two years in college. It's not the best to watch HD movies or high res sports, but it does the N64 just fine for me along with any of the streams of hockey I watch. I have it stretched to about 5ft tall by 8ft wide. No noticeable lag. I highly recommend for casual gaming to semi competitively.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9S3OOC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_I.kiub154A58Z
I wouldn't touch a 720p projector for any amount of money. Not in this day and age.
I would look at:
http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD5134-Projector-Lumens-Blu-Ray/dp/B00A9S3OOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396398858&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Best+1080p+Projector+Under+500
The links below are what the projector and speaker are. They're my buddy's but I just looked around and found them on amazon. Not in the least bit disappointed.
http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD5134-Projector-Lumens-Blu-Ray/dp/B00A9S3OOC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413041376&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Hd+projector
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-Subwoofer-Satellite-CA-3602a/dp/B0027VT6V4/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413041452&amp;sr=1-15&amp;keywords=surround+sound+system
What are your thoughts on ViewSonic....
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9S3OOC/ref=psdc_300334_t2_B00MK39P92
This seems like a nice alternate for a couple hundred less.
spend the extra ~$50 and get the viewsonic PJD5134, highly recommended, way better reviews
http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD5134-Projector-Lumens-Blu-Ray/dp/B00A9S3OOC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421163994&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=viewsonic+pjd5134
I'm not well versed in projectors at all but I bought this for myself as a birthday gift and I love it! I put a solar shade in my picture window and the projector sits on my coffee table 11' away and I get a great picture. I'm not sure of the diagonal measurements on my projection but my window is 70" wide and it fills it. Amazon also has a best of list for projectors - that's how I found this one.
Take a look at Benq's W1080ST. I think it's more accurate to say that this LG Hecto's combination of Laser Light Source and 4K are what makes this sucker so expensive. Short Throw Technology itself is NOT expensive - it's the shit they mix with it!
I'm planning on getting the 2k Lumen Short-Throw BenQ Projector you mentioned along with building my own screen. I was planning to buy Carl's ProGray since there will be ambient light at times (living room with windows).
My question is: Will this material and projector be bright enough for a ~120" screen to be comfortably viewed from 9 or 10 feet? They don't list a gain factor for this material, but maybe you have seen it in person?
This is old, but a good write up on screen gain - http://www.projectorcentral.com/projector_screens_gain.htm
Youll be fine with finding a screen for the room. Ive had good luck with these guys before - http://www.projectorscreenstore.com/.
They have an online chat you can use if you have any questions. Theyre quick about responding for the most part.
They actually have a 1080 ST model now. Here - http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1080ST-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00B11C6HW . and its a low price at the moment.
I'm going with this on a 110" fixed-frame screen.
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1080ST-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00B11C6HW
What about getting a short throw projector? Something like: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B11C6HW/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B00B11C6HW&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=wwwpuresimula-20
No clue. This is it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B11C6HW
I paid about $750 for mine, BUT that was last year when I lived in China. Oddly enough, projectors seemed more expensive there.
You can find the same model (Acer H6510BD) on Amazon (US) for under $600 at the moment.
https://www.amazon.com/Acer-H6510BD-Theater-Projector-White/dp/B00B97ZKIA
Linus does a pretty good job of covering everything computer wise. You can watch how to's and quick explanations of computer terms to get you up to speed.
For 15ft, a HDMI cable seems like the better option (Get one a little longer than you think gives you more leeway to route it better). Much cheaper so you can put that money into the projector. I strongly suggest a 1080p projector as I feel like most people would regret going with a lower resolution. Projector Central is a good place to research. Here is my recommendation for $100 more. review
When I was talking about streaming from the box, I was meaning using Plex to stream externally(haven't heard of Plex? you really should check it out. Lets you stream all your movies anywhere you are). Though the limited number of streams the CPU can handle would probably not max out a WiFi N 150mbps connection (In an apartment setting I suggest using the 5GHz band of N or AC, vastly less interference with better bandwidth). As a bonus your sister will be able to stream everything with relative ease. If you use the automatic downloaders I linked below, I suggest putting a limit to the DL/UL speeds as to not hog all the bandwidth and keep your sister happy.
Bonus: Check out Kodi's newest movie streaming plug in that I think would be perfect for you, Genesis.
Some research for you.
Couchpotato
Plex
Sonarr
NZBGet
Headphones
Kodi
SVP - smooth video player I love this program
I feel like I am still missing something.
Acer H6510BD 3D Home Theater Projector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b9dAyb7VA4R82
I have this one, I love it. I'm no expert (far from), but to me it has a great picture, full 1080p, 3d (if you wanted that) and a good price.
I do depending on mood/game. I have my desk and such, but also have a projector for playing on.
I personally love having both options.
I am rocking this bad boy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B97ZKIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can certainly build yourself a very powerful but small PC.
In the market for my first mechanical keyboard sometime between now and the end of the year.
I ordered a switch tester and decided I'd like my first keyboard to use Cherry MX Red switches. (Switch Tester for the curious: https://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8)
What I'm (hopefully) looking to get:
I'm in the US and do live by a microcenter in case that offers anything.
I'm trying to keep my budget around $150, and because this is my first mech and will be my only one for a while, I'm okay with pushing around that border a little bit.
I have my eyes set on the Ducky One TKL RGB currently, which as far as I'm aware will be available early november.
Thanks for any help! Much appreciated.
This thingy
Can be found here.
these are nice if you don't have a local place to demo them. The switches just feel different and it is user preference really.
I went with browns because they felt more consistent to me and have been happy that I did.
Order a switch sampler off amazon. Then, get a cooler master quickfire variant in whichever switch you want.
I still recommend the mouse though. It is much more comfortable than the Naga and it's cheaper.
For $10 you can order one of these to test the keys for a mechanical keyboard. If you don't want to spend that, you can stop by a store and try them.
Imas online da narucis za male pare kit od 5 dugmica, cherry mx blue, brown, red i jos po koji. Kosta oko 10$
edit:
Evo ga link: http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
I actually just got this four key sample pack. I'm likely going to get blues myself. Although it still doesn't seem quite as nice as the clicky mechanical keyboards I remember from years ago.
You didn't click the add frequently bought together button did you? That combo of 3 items is about 40 usd
You can check out this one but it doesn't have as many keys to test. http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462723831&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Switch+Tester
Here is the simple method the mech switches:
>BLUES - Typing
>REDS - Gaming
>BROWNS - A mix of both
Some more tips:
What keyboard to get?
Personally here is what I recomend:
If you want real advice, there is a while fucking sub for this (and it is very active):
/r/mechanicalkeyboards
Just go to that sub and ask away. Also look at pics of other keyboards, to get an idea of what you like. Personally, I have the Corsair Strafe RGB with browns. I love it more than anything. But yeah, get the switch tester on amazon, and check out that sub.
Hope this helps :)
Edit 1:
Here is the Amazon thingy:
>Max Keyboard Keycap, Cherry MX Switch, O-Ring Sampler Tester Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gY-Dxb9RYZEYA
Using a Rosewill keyboard with brown keyswitches, and the keyboard is great for me because I live with other people and often work late into the night so noise is definitely something I have to consider. Love the "clack clack" feel of the switches. Mechanical keyboards are a pricey investment, so it's important to make sure that you really like what you're getting. I'd recommend trying out a Cherry MX switch tester first (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8) and then heading over to /r/MechanicalKeyboards to find something good.
Mechanical keyboard stores are far and few anywhere that isn't in southeast Asia, sorry, but it's the truth. You may be able to find a Razer BW in a local Best Buy, but that's limited to Razer's (that's what they're calling them, they're really Kailh) orange and green switches (unless you get lucky and they still have pre-2014 models that still have Cherry switches), but other than that, you're looking at a switch tester.
I got mine from amazon. It was $10.99, but free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
I bought a keyswitch tester, to see which ones I liked best. If I were just typing, I would go with browns, but since I'll be using it for gaming, I went with reds.
I also pre-ordered the k70 RGB, and apparently several pre-order's from corsair shipped early, so I'll be getting mine before it's "offically" released.
Here's one I found on Amazon, for $11. Though, it only has 4 options...
Usually Blue is more popular than Blacks. I personally like Reds, but I've never tried Browns or Blacks so I'm getting one of these.
Best way is to buy a switch tester. http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/
I recommend you get this
It has four of the most popular genuine cherry mix switch types with transparent key caps so you can see which one you're trying. Also comes with a key puller and damper O rings so you can try all kinds of combos. Once you decide what you want and you finally get a nice new keyboard, it makes a nice paper weight/fidget toy anyway lmao
i got it because If i was spending $140 on a keyboard i wanted to make sure which switches i wanted
Device used to test different switch types. Some examples:
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=cherry%20switch%20tester&amp;qid=1459360907&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00N6DXTW4?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=cherry%20switch%20tester&amp;qid=1459360907&amp;ref_=sr_1_3&amp;sr=8-3
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=cherry%20switch%20tester&amp;qid=1459360907&amp;ref_=sr_1_2&amp;sr=8-2
Switcher sampler: http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
And yes, there are so many variations and each switch is different.
Even keycaps to each button makes a difference to some.
Check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards please.
Reds might feel good, but another switch might feel better!
You can order a sampler kit, for instance: http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414420239&amp;sr=1-1
Get something like this. I was in the dark about mechanical keyboards as well, but it's not something that can be easily explained. It's a tactile thing, you need to be able to evaluate it with your own hands.
Max Keyboard Keycap, Cherry MX Switch, O-Ring Sampler Tester Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r9Rrzb031N8WC
Yeah, now that ive put my self out there... I cant find it either.
Spent the last half hour or so trying to find the video that I heard that in with zero success.
It was recent as well. Not sure if it was Jayztwocents, linus, pauls hardware, franks, or some other video.
That said, I did find these:
ebay search for samplers
key sampler on amazon
You can check with local stores as well, they may have one on hand.
Ill keep an ear and eye out to see if I can find the info about the sampler/credit deal.
Words really don't do it justice. I bought one of these to figure out which kind of mechanical keyboard switch is right for me.
Best thing is to pick up a switch tester, so you can find out what switch you like. Here is one with the basic 4 switches.
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
Once you know what you like, https://mechanicalkeyboards.com has the largest selection.
[Here's one] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8), but there are other options with a wider variety of switches.
I disagree. I prefer browns over reds and blues. It's all up to personal preference I guess. Try buying one of these first:
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
By a sample kit you mean smth like this? (I'm EU tho)
Do you think pimping my current 6Gv2 with new switches and custom caps is a bad idea? Besides the "out of the box" keyboards (CM, Filco, Ducky) I've seen a lot of custom ones with the most bizarre designs, but I have no idea from what basis they actually begin..
Assuming you got yours from Razer you probably have Cherry MX Blues or Razer Greens (basically the same thing), which would explain the noise complaints. From what I understand your main complaints are noise and actuation force. Just as a suggestion, Cherry MX Browns take 5g less of actuation force, and don't make as much noise, while still having a tactile bump when you press them.
When you find the mechanical keyboard for you, you'll never want to go back.
PS: If you're not sure what switch type you want, check out one of these.
I have the Corsair K70 [non RGB] with Cherry MX red switches. If I were you I'd get a K70. My friend has the Razer Blackwidow with the custom Razer green switches. He loves it.
Before you buy a mechanical keyboard tho. You really need to try out each switch. You could either buy one of these to test it out, or you can go to a local computer store that has keyboards on show.
If you end up buying a mechanical keyboard without testing the switches out first. You may end up hating your keyboard.
Most people like the MX blues [the clicky ones].
I like the MX reds though because you can't feel a bump when you push down a key, and because they are pretty quiet [unless you bash your keyboard]
There are lots of mechanical keyboards on the market. You could go all out and get a Ducky keyboard or get a pretty cheap one like this one
If you want macros then you can go for a Corsair K95 which has 18 macro keys. If you want less macros then you can go for the Logitech G710+ which has 6 macros.
Just remember to try out each MX switch, and you should be good.
There is a ton of info in the wiki.
As for gaming, I suppose if you played a game that made use of the number pad a lot, then you would want a full size 104 key board. Also, some boards like the Razer blackwidow have extra keys that do....things.
If you never use the number pad, then any ~87 key board (tenkeyless) or ~61 key board (60%) board would be fine.
As for typing, much like gaming, it depends primarily on the type of switches the board has, and not so much the board itself.There are a ton of different opinions about which switches are better for typing and which are better for gaming and which are best for both.Totally subjective.
You could maybe get a key sampler to try out some of the most popular cherry mx switches and see which you like best. There are lots of different switches out there, though. As i said, there is a lot of info on the wiki, and other sites like deskthority have wikis explaining the different switches too.
Those are all solid boards, you might want to pick up a switch tester kit from amazon (they run about $20) to make sure you get the right switches before you drop $200 on a board, other than that, they are all good!
Can recommend too: all the keys are raised above the chassis, making cleaning significantly easier.^we know how dirty our keyboards get...
I use the MX Brown version, though—it's mainly personal prefernce whether you opt to use MX Red switches (linear, no resistance), MX Browns (tactile and a little resistance), or MX Blues (more resistant than Browns and clicky). If you can, I recommend that you either go to a local computer hardware store and get a feel for the mechanical keyboards on display, or order a basic mechanical switch sampler kit such as this one.
I don't remember the size of the Dell, but that Anker mouse is exactly 5 inches (12.7 cm) from front to back. It fits my hand very well, but I think I have slightly smaller than average hands.
Anyway, I also plan to get a mechanical keyboard this year. I've already gotten this key switch sampler, and I've settled on getting blue switches. For anyone interested, it looks like that one is unavailable currently, but the 4-key version (which I probably could have gone with myself) is still in stock.
I think you'd like blue :) that's what I have and I believe it's the most popular (based on a couple polls I've seen here). If you aren't in a huge hurry to receive your keyboard, why don't you get a sampler set so you can test the different switch types?
Max Keyboard Keycap, Cherry MX Switch, O-Ring Sampler Tester Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-I9Uub1WA195A
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
It has the four most common chery mx mechanical keyboard switches, I used it to see what kind of switches I liked
Here is my Intro
Ill add a pic once I get out of class!
No Diggity
And on the off chance that I win, either Red Diggity or Blue Diggity
Edot: Of course I forgot haha
People are going to give you a lot of unimportant reasons like n-key rollover. The only thing that counts is that they feel so much nicer. I have one with Cherry MX Blue switches on it, and it is super tactile. Some prefer less tactile and more linear switches like the Brown.
I would recommend going to a store and testing them out, or getting something like this. You will be able to feel the difference and decide if it is worth the money, and what switch you like.
You might want to grab one of these testers (if you decide to sell the reds and try another switch)
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
Personally, I like the browns the best.
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450889295&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=switch+tester
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
Worth the money to make sure imo
It is entirely subjective, but purchasing yourself a switch tester will definitely help! Some examples:
Please note, I haven't purchased either of these items, so these may not be great examples, but I am just trying to help :)
Blue is the loud clickity clackity switch. A lot of people like the noise and try to associate it with mechanical keyboards, but if you're like me and prefer a less noisy experience avoid them. When a friend of mine was still living at home, his mom made him get rid of his blue switch keyboard because it was so loud she couldn't sleep at night being in the next room. He also didn't have o-rings so she had to deal with the clicky noises and the clacking from bottoming out.
Browns are basically quieter versions of Blues. Great for typing without all the noise. Has a tactile bump for actuation without the click noise and great for typing. I use these for both gaming and typing and I love them.
Reds are linear switches. Little quieter than browns. Easier to bottom out if you don't have o-rings because there isn't a bump or click for actuation and they have little resistance. Typically used more for gaming, but doesn't mean you need them for gaming.
All three are commons choices and at the end of the day it completely comes down to preference. If you're unsure what switch you'd prefer, go to a computer store with some on display and try them out. If none are available, there are switch testers to you can order to test out the different choices.
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4 For example.
Also, http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8 cheaper option with less switch choices.
Browns with o-rings are my personal favorite. Brown for the bump without the click, and o-rings to avoid the clack. I also really love the way Black switches feel, but admittedly they're a bit too stiff for me to game with so I stick with brown.
Never used one myself, but I've heard stories. IF you want a modern Keyboard I recommend the Corsair K70, I've had it for over 2 years and no signs of wear yet. Bought it for 129.99 on Amazon. I went with the MX Blue switch, but there are many types available. And they light up, so that is cool too. You want also sample the switches before buying.
K70 Keyboard- http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_4?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;fieldkeywords=k70+keyboard&amp;sprefix=k70+%2Caps%2C207
Keyboard Switch Sample- http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452263825&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=mechanical+switches
Assuming you got this tester, those are PCB mounted switches, IE, they're only mounted to the board, and not a metal plate, like they are in most mechanical keyboards nowadays. There's a small amount of play on the keycaps themselves, but I promise you that the switches themselves will be much much tighter on any keyboard you get.
You may want to check out something like this http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8
Get a feel for the difference yourself. Mechanical switches are all about personal preference.
yeah but you should do some research on the type of switches you want.
the cherry ones are probably the most common.
http://www.pcgamer.com/best-mechanical-switches-for-gaming/
you can get this or this to test them out before hand
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449361539&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mechanical+switch+tester
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449361539&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=mechanical+switch+tester
Would you guys recommend something like this to get a general idea?
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1375769136&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Keyboard+switch+sampler
I have a full-size Ducky at work and a Corsair tenkeyless at home, with Cherry Browns (moderate force, low noise), and both have worked well for me.
I don't have direct experience with a 60% keyboard (like you have), but Ducky's got the Mini that might suit you.
Two preparatory suggestions: order a "demo set" of keys and see which switches you prefer, and buy a set of o-rings (which will help dampen sound) and try those as well. A quick search turns up this set on Amazon that even includes some o-rings.
Or something like this if you want something a little cheaper.
Buy one of these first: http://smile.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8?sa-no-redirect=1
Or better yet, go somewhere that sells mechanical keyboards and try them out for a bit.
Could you clarify, do you want an ANSI or ISO layout?
I wouldn't go for any MX switch without trying them out first, as you may find that you like MX Browns or MX Blues a lot more than MX Reds. If you can, you should buy a switch tester like this one to get an idea of what you'd like.
Reds don't help gaming very much, it's more important to have a keyboard that you like.
You are making a wise consideration, hope to welcome you to the family soon!
A few things to start. I would really suggest buying a switch tester. As easy as it is to read about keys, testing them is essential. Some people say Blues are loud, for others they aren't loud enough. Some say Blacks are too sturdy, others think they are too easy to press, etc, etc. That being said, spend the few extra bucks and test out the switches so you can make a wise investment. Sure it won't tell you what its like to type on, but it will answer the questions like is it going to be too loud? or do I want tactile? or do I want clicky? or do I want linear? Reading can not answer these questions for you, plain and simple.
On that note, a mech is definitely an investment. It should last years, if not decades. If problems do occur, most are easy fixes. So once you do decide what your needs are, such as...
...then start looking for keyboards that fit your criteria. I will say, above all, don't settle on key switch type, all the other stuff can be added or changed fairly easily. Size is probably the next most important decision (in some cases the priority of these two may be flipped).
If you come back with some of your wants/needs/budget we can start looking at specific keyboards you may have questions about!
There's a 4 switch tester by Max Keyboard at amazon for 12.99. Looks like there's limited quantity on it too.
I bought This Test kit for $14. It has a red, a black, a blue, and a brown key that you can press to see how it feels. It also comes with 0.4mm O-rings that you put on the underside of the keys to make it quiter/feel different. Before I bought this to test them out myself I, went solely on other peoples opinions of the keys; which is a mistake now that I tested them for myself. I always thought I wanted cherry reds since they are the most quiet. But holy shit the feeling of Cherry blues with the O-ring on it was amazing, I clicked it for hours and I would have missed out on the one I truly want now if not for the test kit.
I went through the same thing a few months ago. I was really worried I was going to be unhappy with the switches I chose. If you are unsure of what switch to get I highly suggest purchasing one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E71W4O8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1466264376&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=mechanical+keyboard+tester
After trying them all side by side I was totally confident in my decision.
Well, I went into it thinking I was going to like the Cherry MX Blue switch, and the tester confirmed it. The tester I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E71W4O8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The tester I got came with .4mm Orings I think, and they also made me think about getting the o-rings for my keyboard when I decide to actually purchase it.
That being said, it gives a simple test of which one you might like, but I will say, you may never really know until you actually type on a keyboard made of the switches, because honestly only one key might not be enough. It will be enough to see what one you should lean towards.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E71W4O8/
I bought this and it was a decent way to decide which type of switch I wanted
I love my browns, they give just enough of a bump without being completely smooth, like reds or blacks, at the same time being at a more manageable noise level than blues. I can't stand the linear switches. That being said, your best bet would probably be to buy a switch tester and try it for yourself (there's a pretty cheap one on Amazon for $13: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E71W4O8). As you can probably tell, everyone has a different preference.
One note about the brown switch that came on my tester was that it felt a bit too smooth compared to the browns on my K95, the ones on the board are a lot more tactile.
Order the cheery switch tester board
here
Find the switch you like the most and go from there
This. I use browns at my work, but everyone around me is older and harder of hearing, so they don't notice.
If anyone around you would notice, you could get any switch with a linear system and put dampeners on them. No one would notice.
Also, if you want to test them out, you can get the tester kit:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E71W4O8/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It comes with dampeners you can put on to try out the different switches. I found it quite useful.
This will answer most of these questions.
If you don't have a lot of experience with mechanical keyboards, considering getting a sampler like this so you can find out what switch type you like the best.
If you're worried about that, I might recommend brown switches. I don't like reds/blacks because it's not as obvious when I've pressed the key. I don't like blues because they're super annoying for everything except typing. Browns are like the perfect middle ground for everything. You know when you hit the key, and you don't press it accidentally, but you still don't have to press very hard. To each their own.
I recommend something like this. It's not as accurate as actually trying a full-scale board, but it gives you a good idea. Make sure to try it with and without the o-rings.
Go into a Best Buy or you local PC store, pray they have some mechanical keyboards and try them out. I firmly believe buying a keyboard is like buying an instrument. You have to try it first and see what feels right for you. I say this because the first mech keyboard I got was MX Red switches and I hate them. I switched- lol- to MX Blue's and I am in love with my keyboard now. Big difference. But explaining that is impossible. You can also order one of these - http://amzn.com/B00E71W4O8 - Switch tester with 4 popular mechanical switch type.
totally. imo you wont be doing any mapping on a $200 projector.
i have a couple of these, theyre great
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Acer-H5380BD-720p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00I0VRE6E
Good price, Dark Chip 3 (for good contrast) and plenty of lumens so you could have some ambient light.
> 5500 lumens (LED MAX)
would be what's written on the led bulb - if there really is one - not any kind of actual industry standard test result (which is what it is on a name brand projector).
It's probably more like 300 lumens.
A real HD projector, who's specs aren't fake, can be bought on Amazon for less than $400.
e.g.:
http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H5380BD-720p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00I0VRE6E/ref=lp_300334_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450243634&amp;sr=1-8
Why risk completely wasting $300 on a crappy unit with fake specs (perhaps worth less than $100)?
Here is a much much much much much better projector and deal. I just picked this up refurbished from their outlet site for $293.
http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H5380BD-720p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00I0VRE6E
This is $383 shipped to your door and one of the best, if not THE, best values in projectors.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Acer-H5380BD.htm
There is a review for you. Enjoy.
Objectives for space:
Budget:
Constraints / Affordances:
What I need help with:
I'm happy to provide any other measurements / info if needed to help with my project!
Woah, thanks for the in-depth response! I appreciate you taking the time.
I'd also just like to stress that I'm pretty much computer illiterate. I can sort of grope my way through most problems and get a vague understanding of how things work, but in general, I don't possess very much technical knowledge (i.e. I can't look at the parts at get a sense of what the build will be capable of).
I don't plan on streaming all that much. I'm not a huge Netflix/Hulu guy, so I'll be torrenting most of my stuff. Regardless, I live in an apartment just down the hall from my sister and I use her wi-fi.
And I was just looking into some wireless HDMI solutions, and the DVDO Air3 looks like it's in my price range. That being said, I still just might go with a longer HDMI cable for now (this is all located in my bedroom, so the distance is probably 15 feet at most).
While I've got you here (seeing as you're willing to hold my hand through this), can I get your opinion on this projector? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0VRE6E?colid=3NIWWRTEY37OD&amp;coliid=I3GA7QPTTLAC8Y&amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl
It has good reviews and it's in my price range, but I have absolutely zero experience with using/buying one.
Optoma GT1080
Optoma GT1080
you'll need to get a dvi to hdmi cable or adapter though as it only has 2 hdmi ports.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M9D4CAK
May have been asked in the past.. but I'm hoping someone can help me who knows way more about audio setups than I. So here is what I hope to accomplish if possible:
Amazon Echo playing sound from Amazon Fire TV Stick + Projector. Is it possible? How might I go about accomplishing this?
Projector is this: https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00MK39P92
See if you like any of these: https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00MK39P92
https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD26-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00LL2SHK6/
https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Cinema-Brightness-Theater-Projector/dp/B014D7XGNS/
http://www.benqdirect.com/benq-outlet/refurbished-projectors/w1070-refurb.html
Make sure you compare the specs
I think this is what I'm looking for! I'm not sure how to go about picking one out though.. any tips? How do they compare to the amazon king: Optoma?
I'm inclined to believe that there are billions of projectors out there, but few have been bought and even fewer reviewed.
I decided to buy some speakers off of an old friend. Less than a hundred hours of use, the Infinity Primus P363 towers pair, and an Infinity Primus PC351 center for a grand total of 270 bucks. Pretty sweet deal IMO.
Anyways, I live in an apartment, room size is probably 12' by 14'. I'll be playing music probably thirty percent of the time, and the other seventy percent will consist of a pretty even split of gaming and movies. Going to connect my Polk audio 10 sub (I think, still debating) to the system. All connected to a Yamaha stereo. Will be using a projector for my TV, and that will complete my home theater.
Have you considered going with a projector? Amazon has some 1080 projectors with good reviews for ~$550. I'm going that route soon, for a 110-inch display. I'm probably going for this one.
The 'brains' behind it will be a laptop, and a digital TV antenna (no cable).
Found this today actually:
It's a home theater projector but it should be bright enough for your needs and is really cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-Theater-Projector-Enabled/dp/B00MK39P92/
Link to the calculator for said projector: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD141X-projection-calculator-pro.htm?add=8386
i bought an Epson 8350 over 2 years ago and have absolutely loved it. its bright and 1080p. plus its just over $1k on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-8350/dp/B0044UHJWY
edit: i noticed the 5030 you were looking at is 3D capable. the 8350 is not. it just depends on your preference. personally, i dont give a shit about 3D. the 5030 is definitely a better projector, no doubting that. However, i am amazed with the picture quality of the 8350 and dont believe $1500 would be worth it for an improvement you would only notice if the projectors were side by side. but thats just my opinion...
Pfft I got a 1080p 3D Projector for 1/4 for price, I can get as many inches as I want. 100 inch is no problem if that's what I want. Just got to make the room dark.
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1070-1080P-Theater-Projector/dp/B00A2T6X0K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381964778&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=w1070
If you really can't decide, you should purchase a cherry switch sampler available [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00N6DXTW4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418104761&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cherry+switch+sampler) (or [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418104761&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cherry+switch+sampler&amp;pebp=1418104793540) if you decide test not as many as the first option provides.)
I would recommend browns or blues because they are both relatively easy to type on and get used to, but it depends if you want the audible feedback or not.
OH WAIT if you think blues are sloppy but you like the click, consider greens. Greens are like blues with the bump and click BUT requires 80 grams of actuation force, which is much stiffer than the blues, which only require 50 grams, so you still get that nice click and a very stiff key, along with less typos and a great typing experience. [Here's an example of a green switch mech.] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st3dCj9gkrE)
Hey man, cool that you're looking into an upgrade!
You said you wanted 10Keyless, i believe CMstorm has some good ones (also one that is reduced in size because the numpad and arrow keys are merged [Quickfire TK] if you want to look into that), corsair also have some good keyboards i've heard and so does logitech but i'm not sure if either of those have TKL versions.. DAS-keyboard and ducky are probably the best built keyboards out there at this time.
I personally use MX blue switches and i've been told many times that red switches are best for gaming in general. if you want you can look into a few tester switches to see what suits you best (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8).
Feel free to ask me more questions about this matter if you feel the need to do so :)
Optoma GT1080 1080p 3D DLP Gaming Projector
"
Just ordered this one
[New Release] Anker Ultra Slim 4-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-dTSybFXR8SBW
Thanks for the advice mate
I actually have two of these, that I use for outdoor movies and we use for spontaneous "go play your games in the other room!" nights. https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-T20-Projector-Multimedia-Smartphone/dp/B01LZRUY6Q $60 gets you out the door for 1080p gaming and movies.
When did I give numbers?
But lets make an estimate:
White Sand: $8/pound. How many pounds do you think you'll need for a decent sized box? 10-50 on the low range?
A decent Pico projector: $130. Bigger/better ones probably $200-300
A decent computer with a good graphics card (from everything I've read on this you need a good gfx card to get a proper experience) I don't even know where to start with that but it's probably safe to say at least $500?
Kinect: $40 for a used one
And probably around $60 for the wood to build the frame.
So that's around $1000. Not $2200. Definitely. But still not cheap.