Best weather stripping according to redditors

We found 107 Reddit comments discussing the best weather stripping. We ranked the 60 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Weather Stripping:

u/IchigoKyger · 48 pointsr/SwitchHaxing

I would only suggest doing this mod if you are extremely comfortable with a soldering iron. I'm not responsible if you mess up your Joy-Con. With that being said below are the things I used to make this possible:

Parts

  1. Take apart your Joy-Con.
  2. Run two wires from the Pin 10 pad and the ground as shown in this picture: https://i.imgur.com/mpbtqVQ.jpg Leave some extra wire so you can cut to size later. Soldering to the ground plain can be a pain I brought my Iron up to 750 F, used a bigger tip and had to hold it there for awhile before it would become molten.
  3. Re-assemble your Joy-Con up to putting the back on it.
  4. Take the 6mm x 6mm x 6mm Tactile push button and cut off the leads on one side and bend the other leads flat.
  5. Cut two small pieces of weather seal and place them on top of each other and hot-glue the button to the top of it.
  6. Place your weather seal and button down to the left side below the battery so it doen't interfere with the rail.
  7. Cut your wires to size and solder each wire to their own lead on the button.
  8. Place your back cover on to the Joy-Con to see where the button is and make a mark in the center of the button.
  9. Remove the back cover and slowly drill a hole stepping up bit sizes until the button fits in.
  10. Re-assemble and enjoy!

    More pictures

u/scuffling · 11 pointsr/battlestations

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|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|:-|:-|:-|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
||$3649||
||||
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
||$4886||
||||
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|
|keyboard|$110|https://www.amazon.com/MODEL-Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00N2ROO2S|
||$5046||

​

u/sprintone23 · 9 pointsr/DIY

So for those of you who wanted a parts list and a cost breakdown here it is...some of these costs might be a little rough but I'll get close.

u/notyourdaddy9 · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

It was a rubber door strip like this

u/MrDorkESQ · 4 pointsr/DIY

Since the width of a true sphere chair is 48" (122cm).

get a 120cm exercise ball.

Cover the ball with 1 layer of painter's tape or 1 layer of paper mache'.

Radially layout thick foam weather stripping.

Add more weather strip as the edge using one of the ridged lines that are around the ball as a guide. This will define your opening.

Fill in the the gaps between the weather stripping with spray foam. let cure.

Shape the foam with surfboad shaping tools.

Glass the outside of the foam. I think you would need 3 layers.

Deflate the ball. (you did make sure that the fill hole was facing out didn't you?)

Glass the inside of the foam and finish.

EDIT: Instead of weather stripping, you can use 3/4" pex tubing and double stick tape (the really sticky foam stuff). You can wire it all together and fill it with foam. That with be more rigid and it will give you a nice rounded edge at the opening of the chair.

u/veni_vidi_vale · 4 pointsr/headphones

My condolences. I don't have any issues with the bumpy headband on the Q701, which I guess makes me lucky, in the minority, or both

The way I see it, you have 3 options:

[1] The easiest option: use some kind of foam tape between the bubbles. I'm going to call this the [Zeos the Frost King mod] (http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R534H-Sponge-16-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFC), because I heard it from /u/ZeosPantera

[2] elective surgery: use a sharp knife or scalpel to cut out the bubbles, and then tape foam on the undersurface of the universal headband. You could use a HD600 or HD650 headband pad, which is cheap (if you buy from Senn) and fits reasonably well.

[3] transplant surgery: You could replace the entire universal headband (the one with the bumps, attached with the flimsy rubber bands) by fabricating a new one (leather would be nice!) and unscrewing the side plastic housings to get at the rubber band. Of course, the patient may not survive the operation, but that's what high risk surgery is all about :-0

u/n0esc · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The common term is weather stripping.

From your picture what you currently have is a fairly inexpensive foam version that tends to break down and compress, which is why you are getting drafts. It's generally only attached with double sided tape and should peel right off easily enough. You can get something like Goo-Gone to clean the left over adhesive off before applying new.

Something like this should be available at any HomeDepot, Lowes or similar.

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-Heavy-Duty-Adhesive-Weatherstrip-17-Feet/dp/B0025KUSY6

u/Apotropaic_Sphinx · 3 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Honestly, it's probably one of the top 5 shitiest jobs to do on an XJ. Not because it's hard but because it's so tedious.

Buy a compartmentalized project tray and a couple sheets of dot stickers.

Also a liberal application of foam tape so you don't regret being born after putting everything together.

u/Kariko83 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have one of these currently over my maker select and it makes a great frame for an enclosure. I basically cut 3 pieces of blue foam insulation, the kind you get in sheets at home depot, that fit between the legs and covered the 4th with plexi-glass. I used foam weather stripping, like this stuff, to gasket the panels and stuck LED strip lighting to the top. I feed the filament in through a length of ptfe tubing inserted at the top of one of the side panels foam gasket. I can take some pictures if you want to see exactly what I mean.

u/Valthero · 3 pointsr/headphones

http://i.imgur.com/I3knEy7.jpg

Old picture because lazy, but polyurethane between the bumps works pretty well.

This is what I used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EQON6Q/

u/VisibleLoL · 3 pointsr/hottoys

It is extremely effective, but not 100% dust proof. and it isn't difficult at all. You can purchase weather stripping on Amazon for a few bucks and it takes a couple minutes to just stick it to the sides.

The 16ft length is able to line 1 detolf with about 3-4 feet left over.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077P56W3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Drisc0 · 3 pointsr/StonerProTips

I had a pretty effective method that I used in the dorms two years ago. The main thing you need to focus on when smoking in a dorm room is airflow. You want to create negative air pressure in your room ie have more air leaving your room than entering it. This will keep the smoke going out the window, rather than into the hallway.

To do this you will need 3 things:

  • a towel to put at the foot of your door
  • a fan in the window blowing air from your room to outside
  • This foam which you will put around the edges of your door. This will prevent air leaking through the cracks around your door.

    Once you have setup the negative pressure, you want to test your setup by holding a lighter around the edges of the door. If you have set your room up properly the flame should either not move, or blow sightly inside your room. If the flame is attracted to the cracks around the door then your setup is not working and you need to fix that before lighting up.


    After that the next thing to consider is the type of piece you will be using to smoke. You will want to use glass or a vape. Never smoke a joint or a blunt in your room! You want to take smaller hits to prevent your bowl from cherrying. The idea is to have as little smoke in your room as possible. I would usually cover the bowl with my hand after my hits to prevent a cherry. Then just exhale through a sploof (paper towel roll with dryer sheets) into the fan.


    Hope this is helpful, this method got me through my freshman year with no trouble whatsoever. Make sure you don't open your door until your room has aired out, which is usually pretty quick if you follow the steps I outlined above.
u/kingxs · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You could try some weatherstrip seal?

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Brand-284426-Adhesive-Weatherstrip/dp/B0025KUSX2

Or you could try some great stuff foam, it has a "straw", might be able to angle in space?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YW0W0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

u/Saltystew · 2 pointsr/headphones

The earpads you mean? No, they're not bumby.

I used some cork sheets I got from michaels craft store and a self-adheisve weathering strips from amazon.

u/walkmypanda · 2 pointsr/Atlanta

You'd honestly just be fine with the cheaper $10-15 stuff you can get at home depot / lowes.


  • Get some of that cheaper stuff, spray the edges of doorways/windows/vents/corners of rooms/etc like 3-4 times a year, should take you like 15 mins.
  • Every now and then, put some bleach down your drains. Helps keep those fucking house centipedes away too. FUCK those things.
  • If your door doesn't have a door draft stopper, get one such as this. If you have a huge gap under your door, that's probably where they're coming from.
  • Borax powder will defo kill the stuff, but they'll still get in your apartment, same thing with bait traps. So you might still end up waking up with them on your arm if they can still get in (and want to get in) your place!
  • Obligatory "keep your place clean."
u/Albafika · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures
u/bookfancier69 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

adhesive weather stripping is cheap and low effort and works well.

u/ready_1_take_1 · 2 pointsr/StonerProTips

Two more door pro-tips:

Use foam tape like this to seal the gap between the door and doorframe.

This, combined with a draft sock will keep the dank vapors on the correct side of the door.

Bonus benefit: helps keep weird odors & noises out of your space.

u/crackinmypants · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

I use foam weatherstripping like this under all of my tanks. I just stick it to the top of the stands. It's pretty cheap, and I think it works well. Can't say for sure because I've never had a tank crack from stress is many, many years of fish keeping. I figure it can't hurt, though. edit:more detail

u/Oceslope · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures

I used this. Cut the strip in down the middle since you don't need it double wide.

u/mellokind · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yep. Ok, so all joking aside, your hinge ideas seem fine, if you go the route of replacement, just make sure the screw hole distance is the same and the spacing and diameter of the hole in the door is the same that you're replacing. From the pictures in your OP it look doable. Another option could be, putting a strip of high density foam tape around the three sides of the cabinet doors that aren't the hinge side. This is basic door weatherstripping stuff that will easily muffle the sound of them closing much more than the bumpers, be a lot cheaper than new hinges or dampeners, but on the down side, might look iffy. You can research around and find this stuff in most basic colors, at least natural common tones like white, black, beige, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-B2-Caulking-19-ounce/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=lp_495372_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398561132&sr=1-2

u/CraigButNotReally · 2 pointsr/balisong

I thought this was a joke...

Don't glue it. That won't last long. Try something like rubber tape. https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-6619-2-Inch-/dp/B000HE5ZB8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1467078339&sr=8-7&keywords=rubber+tape They have some at places like Home Depot. Maybe even layered electrical tape. It will peel up eventually.

u/Traderjill · 1 pointr/blackladies

I'm sorry to hear about your troubles.

Regarding the noise issue. Are you working in a separate room or do you have to work in a room where others are around? If it is a separate room but the noise is still coming through, you may want to consider getting some stripping (https://www.amazon.com/Efficient-stopper-soundproofing-weather-stripping/dp/B078N2TV7T/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521143043&sr=8-4&keywords=soundproofing) to put at the bottom/tops of your doors to help keep out noise. There are also soundproofing foam panels, curtains and quilts that you can purchase as temporary solutions if you need to cover a larger area.

I know you don't have a lot of funds but if you're stuck between spending $10-100 (check ebay and amazon) to do some minor soundproofing versus getting fired.. that may be an option for you. Another option is to look into the cheapest and highest quality noise cancelling microphone (headset). I used to do work from home technical support and they had a 0 tolerance noise policy so I understand the pressure you may be under.

u/Eagle1337 · 1 pointr/headphones

Here ya go OP: Solution to the bumps!

u/Rasputin1942 · 1 pointr/PSVR

What I did to prevent this kind of issues was to attach some foam tape (something like that https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Weatherseal-Stick-Weather-Strip/dp/B000BQMMVI ) on the side near the lenses. In this way the glasses can't touch the lenses.

u/mr_mooses · 1 pointr/MINI

The design is a bit different, and the dash was redesigned to have less rattles. My '05 was much better than my '08 until i did semi solid mounts.

For the rattle in the center of the dash by the window, there is a peg that the dash mounts into and it rattles i guess. I've never bothered to take the top dash pad off, and i don't like messing with airbags unless i actually need to do something.

But. buy some weather stripping foam. i bought all the foam and rubber stripping they sold at walmart, and this is the stuff i liked the best.

Put it into the gap between your windshield and the dash pad along the entire front. Mine fit snug, i didn't remove the adhesive, just left the tape over it.

That makes a huge difference.

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/headphones

Here is the Foam Tape I used. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EQON6Q

u/Jaytokyo · 1 pointr/boostedboards

I'm looking at ways to improve sealing as well. I thought about going the sealant tape route as you wouldn't have to remove the vesc. Do you think this 3M conforming tape would get shredded quickly? It molds almost like tube sealant. Something like gaffer or metallic tape is another option. Did you use double sided foam tape for the vesc and single sided for the battery gap? Any overheating issues? The first link is ribbed and it might even be possible to squeeze it under the coverings without removal. Great ideas guys!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BXXAJM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Y7CKVO/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W6HKT83VD4Z7GFJH3V9A&dpPl=1&dpID=71s%2BB7D7QgL&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YQAHEHM/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_328_of_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HF364X4RD0YY8S8TJYC6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BXXAJM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

u/specialglass · 1 pointr/chicago

Once it gets close to Christmas, just go to Butch McGuire's and wait for the snow to melt.

Also, to ensure you won't get kicked in the perineum by your first cold month utility bill - spend a few dollars on some rolls/packages of plastic that you can put over all the windows. You're not gonna be opening them very much if at all, and the pocket of air they creates a buffer that really cuts down on draft and some of the heat loss.

Something like this -

https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-V73-9H-42-Inch/dp/B000AXSVJ4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1539720013&sr=8-5&keywords=insulation+plastic

Also consider getting some of those rubber/plastic seals for exterior doors.

https://www.amazon.com/Efficient-Stopper-soundproofing-Weather-Stripping/dp/B078N2TV7T/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1539720123&sr=8-14&keywords=door+gasket

u/IOnlyLurk · 1 pointr/headphones

>With respect to the headband mod, keep in mind that mutilating the headband kills resale value. Some folks have made custom universal headbands or transplanted the K701 headbands (which are expensive!). Wrapping Beyerdynamic replacement headband around the Q701 headband works, but you will have to cut the stock headband to size to allow the Beyer clips to fasten.

You can just get some adhesive foam and put it between the bumps.

u/Canuck1stan · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I would put this self adhesive weatherstripping everywhere possible. If you think it will rub on the ground outside you could put it on the bottom sill. Won't be pretty but it will seal.

u/figgypie · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Well right now I'm running a bit bare (actually on a smoking hiatus until I cement this job I'm hankering after) but right now I have a draft guard under my door (here's an example).
Otherwise for the longest time at my old place I also used (and plan on reinstalling before the winter) some weather stripping around the door too (like this) that is just great at keeping cold air out and skunky smoke in.

A really cheap and honestly practical solution, and it'll help keep bugs and cold air out of your home. Win-win.

u/chandalowe · 1 pointr/whatsthisbug

You can try adding a door sweep. It's just a cheap item you attach to the bottom of your door (and/or screen door) to seal the gap and keep bugs out.

Something like this or this.

u/Tolingar · 1 pointr/sousvide

It would probably be okay. I'm having a bit of a hard time understanding what you are wanting to do with it. Are you going to cut a hole in the cooler for the sous vide machine and are wanting to create a seal around that whole? The rest of the cooler should already be well insulated, including the hinges area.

Anyway, I would probably use something like this Weather Striping it has good insulation properties and will compress and create a good seal. The temperature range might be a bit of a problem on higher heat longer cooks. I've never used it in a sous vide project, but I've used this sort of foam tape in a lot of other DIY projects and my experience is that it will soften at the higher temps but won't melt unless it gets really hot.

u/Grokmoo · 1 pointr/DIY

One thing that can help with doors and some windows is weatherstripping (if yours is old or missing). It goes all around the edges of a door jamb and is compressed when the door is closed, forming a (nearly) air tight seal.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-16-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=lp_495372_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815640&sr=1-1

You may need a different size than that.

u/mrs_71 · 1 pointr/engineering

The humming noise is likely due to vibration in the fan itself. Is that an actual pic of the fan? If he is willing to let you mess around with it, I’d recommend applying some type of foam weatherstripping to the fan housing anywhere it is in direct contact with the ceiling or floor joists.
Like this Foam

u/pnkstr · 1 pointr/DIY

What about cutting some foam to fit between the window and the enclosure? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Stripping-Windows-Adhesive-Insulation/dp/B071R4BCHQ

u/sotodefonk · 1 pointr/hometheater

If pionner dont have them i dont know either, but I think you can easily adjust something for that, its not like you need to move the speaker constantly.

Something like:

  • velcro

  • rubber feet and make an ark with a cutter
  • wood blocks sanded to make an arc + velcro on top to stop vibrations
  • foam blocks
  • original speaker foam pads
  • Foam door sealers trips

    I can think of several of thing you can put on the speaker to adjust it, it just depends on how you want it to look.

    The cheapest would be a sheet of foam, you probably have some laying around from packages, cut it with a cutter to your desired size and just put your speaker on top, the foam will keep it in place.
u/Tirfing88 · 1 pointr/AnimeFigures

Thanks! I saw that you suggested weather strips for the dust, found these on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Weather-Stripping-Weatherstrip-Adhesive-Insulation/dp/B06XCK65QM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1537253608&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=weather%2Bstripping&th=1

Do you have any experience with them? I was wondering which measure would a detolf need. I'm guessing the 1/2*1/8.

u/PrusaNoob · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have the same storage tote. This rubber seal fits perfectly https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-Rubber/dp/B0000CBIFC?th=1

u/tattedblacpanda · 0 pointsr/mazda3

I would try something like this. Put this on the back of the plate then tight it down.

https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Stripping-Windows-Adhesive-Insulation/dp/B071R4BCHQ

u/Etherius · 0 pointsr/ChoosingBeggars

Weather stripping.

And you may have to buy new doors from home depot. They're about $400/door depending on size, but they're worth the investment. You'd probably save that much every year on climate control costs.