Best weatherproofing products according to redditors

We found 599 Reddit comments discussing the best weatherproofing products. We ranked the 176 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Weatherproofing pipe coverings
Weather stripping
Window insulator kits

Top Reddit comments about Weatherproofing Products:

u/Killjoy4eva · 57 pointsr/aww

It's window plastic. Used for older windows to insulatate. Keeps warm air in and cold drafts out

u/picmandan · 32 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm glad that video helped you decide to do sound treatment, but frankly it's a terrible video. He is well intentioned and seems like he is doing some decent things but is woefully off base.

He confuses sound isolation from sound absorption (acoustic treatment). They work totally differently, and his microphone tests are, sadly, a farce. Stick a thin piece of sheetrock in between the sound source and the microphone, and it will block sound better than anything in his test. But does that make sheetrock good for sound absorption? Heck no.

The reasons the towels work better than foam in his test is because they do a better job blocking sound. But what works best for sound absorption used in acoustic room treatments? His tests, and yours show that towels DO work to absorb sound and reduce reverb (echo). But are they the best materials? No.

The standard DIY materials for sound absorption are Owens Corning 703or 705, or Roxul/Rockswool rockboard, in various thickness, though 2" is probably the most common. These have been tested along with other cost effective materials to be the primary goto items for sound absorption. Also sound diffusion panels are often very useful, especially to the rear of the listening position.

Sheetrock on the other hand, because of its density, is great for blocking sound waves. If for example, you were trying to "soundproof" a room - heavy sheetrock is a staple of cost-effective approaches, combined with isolation clips and damping. The mass helps to stop stubborn low frequency waves.

The towels will indeed work as you've found out, and can be done pretty cheaply, especially if you have enough on hand. But don't go thinking that what this guy's video showed was reasonable.

/sorry, rant mode off/

u/derek_j · 29 pointsr/LifeProTips

If you have big windows, buy some window film. I bought this and applied it to all my windows/sliding doors this spring. The downside is that it's a somewhat mirror finish.

Last year during the July when it was over 100 like every day, my electricity bill was about $200. This year, after applying that, the highest my bill ever got was $124. Also, make sure your AC is running efficiently. I had a tune up, and the only thing that was wrong was the fins in my AC unit were a little bit clogged. Blew it out with a hose (from the inside towards the outside. You'll need to take off the fan to do this).

u/Howdysf · 28 pointsr/answers

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

This is basically a plastic film that you put over your window wells with double sided tape.. then you use a hair dryer to shrink/tighten it...

I've used them during Winters in DC and they've made a big difference..

u/themadscribe · 28 pointsr/Ultralight

Swiss Army Classic .74oz

Frogg Toggs jacket 6oz

Polycro ground sheet or trim your own 1.6oz

This will save you over 19oz for about $40

u/trappedinthetardis · 22 pointsr/boston

Oh, ok! One of the easiest ways to winterize drafty windows is to get the plastic shrink-wrap stuff at a hardware store, something like this.

u/Walrus_Infestation · 22 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I use the thin film plastic window insulation kits every winter, I love them. They are great because the seal out all the tiny cracks in old windows and create a psuedo-double pane window. I would start there because they are much cheaper than curtains.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

u/tinycatsays · 21 pointsr/lifehacks

Is it just called "winter window plastic?" (Just want to check before I go looking for it. Last time I asked for anything specific, I had to go through a couple of alternate names AND describe the item before they figured out what I was talking about).

EDIT! A post below linked the stuff. Oh derp is me. Link courtesy of /u/DrewFlan

u/Ek49ten · 21 pointsr/homestead

I've never liked the look of these but the second year in our RV I finally decided to plastic the windows. We went through the blankets and blinds and what not which helped. Once I sealed them up though, it was a huge difference in draft. It's cheap and easy to do. Get them at walmart, lowes etc.. I'm telling you, night and day difference.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

u/SCUMDOG_MILLIONAIRE · 19 pointsr/Frugal

You're saving some dollars, but your method isn't as efficient as 3M window plastic. I've used that stuff before and it's great. I'd rather spend a few extra bucks to get better heat retention, plus ya know, I enjoy being able to see out my windows and have that warm natural light come in. Since you aren't getting as much sunlight, how much extra are you using electric lights? In my opinion the 3M kit is the more frugal option.

u/pneuman · 19 pointsr/todayilearned

You can't use insulating film?

u/wowowowowow12 · 17 pointsr/HomeImprovement

It's called window insulation film, and sounds like you really need it!

You attach a sheet of plastic to the inside of the window frame using double-sided tape. Then you heat the film using something like a hair dryer so that it becomes more rigid and finishes the seal.

The stuff is sold online and of course and all the major home-improvement stores, here's an example:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

u/alh9h · 16 pointsr/homeowners

Its a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

​

You attach it with the tape then use a hair dryer to shrink it.

u/campgrime · 16 pointsr/Ultralight

Okay, I got this.

G4Free 40L backpack - $18.99


Paria Sanctuary Sil Tarp - $79.99


Polycro ground sheet - $7.98


Sleep pad - $16.79


Down throw - $31.95


Ultralight, summer set up straight from Amazon for about $150.


edit: oops, you said no tarp. You could add the bug net for $65 and be at ~210 for an ultralight, modular set up. Could also subtract the polycro sheet and save a few bucks if you buy the inner net.

u/justanotherburner · 15 pointsr/homeowners
  1. While you shouldn't replace your windows mid-winter, you can put plastic over them. This is very common in the midwest.

    Here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

    This can make a huge difference if you do a good job and blowdry it nice and tight.

  2. At night, use an electric blanket. Much more efficient than heating all the air in the room.

  3. Don't cheap out on your heat so much that a pipe bursts! That's more expensive to clean up than any heating bill.
u/PleaseGiveGold · 12 pointsr/chicago

> While I can keep teh heat at 68, its costing me $300 a month in gas bills to do so, so I'm asking if the landlord is responsible for maintaining a less leaky building.

Unfortunately, no.

Did they provide you with average utility bills? I believe this information is required (but if they didn't give it, and you didn't ask, you might be SOL). If they did, and they are drastically different, you might have a bit of an argument there. If you signed the lease and they told you the heat never costs more than $100 a month and it is costing you triple, you might be able to convince them to lower your rent.

>I already spent $150 on insulation material. The window film isnt cheap.

How many windows do you have? The film should be about a buck a window for largish windows If you have a huge 3br+ place with a ton of windows and exterior walls, $300 isn't actually a crazy gas bill.

If you can see light coming from the doors, there is more non-professional work you can do.

Finally, how long have you lived here? Are you sure you are paying actual bills and not some sort of estimated bill? Are you sure your gas/electric is actually metered to only your own unit? Wouldn't be the first time someone discovered that their gas bill was also paying for common area heating, or to heat the building's hot water or something.

u/MagiicHat · 11 pointsr/Ultralight

To answer the obvious first question: Yes, I'd take it out again.

Pack list

Tarp

u/bacontacos84 · 10 pointsr/SeattleWA

I had some sticker shock on my December bill, over $400. No gas in the house though, all electric. It's an old house, built in the '20s and is a bit larger than yours. Original windows on the main floor but updated energy efficient windows on the upper floor. I only keep it at 65 while we're home and 61 while we're away. Not really sure about the insulation but the walls are all lathe and plaster so I'm not really keen on investigating that.

This month I'm focusing on plugging some airgaps and replacing the weather stripping on the doors. Also bought some of these for my main floor windows so we'll see how much that helps.

u/red_beard_RL · 10 pointsr/answers

This is what we used last winter, the adhesive left no marks and didn't take any paint off - after you shrink it and trim it's barely noticeable

Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 281506 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fjj1Bb5B0EPM6

u/Natural_Law · 9 pointsr/Ultralight

I think it's the same thing.

I always get mine from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B0000CBJ80?th=1

My 40inx84in (cut down from original size, with enough to make 2 groundclothes of same size) piece that I used over the weekend weighs 1.5oz.

u/Nicka2007 · 9 pointsr/Homebrewing

I do 10 gallon batches BIAB with a 20 gallon kettle. With my trub loss to hot break, grain absorbtion, and boil off it is just big enough to fit my water (typically 17.25 gallons) for a 10 gallon batch at around 1.055 (OG) and the 24 lbs. of grain at mash. I could likely go a bit higher with my OG, but otherwise I would have to stick to single batches for anything over about 1.065 or so.

I made my false bottom from a stainless grill grate and some stainless carriage bolts from Home Depot. This keeps my bag off the heating element during the mash.

https://imgur.com/Y0wpP0r

https://imgur.com/wWmnW8N

My electric system is in my basement, so I have a hood installed to the underside of the 1st floor joists for venting moisture. I use a 4500 Watt boilcoil hooked up to a Worthog controller from High Gravity Brew.

My bag is from The Brew Bag and it has held up great. I hang it from a pulley supported from an eyebolt lagged into one of the above floor joists. I wall mounted a winch onto the foundation wall to lift the bag, way overkill I know, but it was the best I could find for cheap.

I've only recently moved to all electric, but this system has worked great so far. In order to bring the ~15 gallons to a solid boil I did have to insulate my kettle with some reflectix even with a 4500 Watt element ,but once I did that it rolls just fine.

https://imgur.com/hrJeGuG

u/Kingofthegnome · 9 pointsr/astoria

Oh hell yeah. My apartment sits around 70 but my bedroom sits around 64. I put up window film and my room is now up to 70 with the rest of the apartment. I will put a link below for what you need. It is by far te best $7-$11 I spend all year.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch-281506/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521587453&sr=8-3&keywords=window+winter

u/raygundan · 8 pointsr/askscience

Similarly, you can use one of these kits, which are basically shrink-wrap for the window. You stick double-sided tape around the window, attach the plastic, and shrink it with a hairdryer. Unlike the blanket, you can still see through it, although you won't be opening the window until you take it down in spring.

u/Bev1603 · 8 pointsr/Frugal

Heat-shrink window sealer kits, at your local hardware store. They cost between $10 - $30, depending on the number/size of your windows. You run the double-sided tape around your window frame, stick the film to it, then shrink the film tight with a air dryer to make it basically invisible. Worth every penny.

This stuff - there are lots of different brands

u/hnmc · 7 pointsr/SantasLittleHelpers

3M Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3qhdAbTWQ0RRR
I live in an older mobile home. Insulating windows is essential to not freeze

u/xrelaht · 7 pointsr/Frugal

5 windows, $18. I did exactly zero shopping around, so you can probably get it for less than that.

u/BigPappaQ · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/FrozenBananaStand · 7 pointsr/Frugal

Heat shrink. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-2141W-Indoor-5-Window-Insulator/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1292816085&sr=8-1


Should be available at any neighborhood hardware store. Goes on with a hair dryer and does as good a job as anything else would.


If you don't care so much about sunlight, a heavy blanket would work best.

u/sayuriaiona · 7 pointsr/japanlife

I use a window insulation kit like this. I used them when I lived in Canada too. The gap between the window and the plastic you put up traps the air. I use those as well as curtains. Works well enough for me and I have cold urticaria and live in Nagano prefecture. Still alive! I've heard of peoples' windows cracking when they've taped something like the bubble wrap directly to it so I've been hesitant to try.

u/sweerek1 · 7 pointsr/Ultralight

And the best place to buy them? Amazon under clear window sheeting such as

Duck Brand Indoor Extra Large Window/Patio Door Shrink Film Kit, 84” x 120”

for only $3 !!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHW2Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_gCshDbC3DCPC2

u/Bdrodge · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yes it will make a big difference.
If you don't want to get new doors you can get insulating blankets from the big box stores RONA, Home Depot or Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/Owens-Corning-500824-Insulation-Fiberglass-Insulates/dp/B002FR5QO6
Make sure the seals on the garage door work well or the wind blowing in will negate any improvement of the insulation.

u/cognizantant · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

That's standard placement.

Relocating would be very costly and not useful. Instead, focus on improving the efficiency of your home. New windows and more insulation.

If new windows are too much $$$, look at window film.
A kit like this works for winter or summer:
Duck Brand 281506 Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/

u/magenta_mojo · 7 pointsr/Connecticut

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2GW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and wrap all your windows with it. It will cut down on the draftiness. In my bedroom it made it about 3-4 degrees warmer on average.

Start thinking about another heating source, stat. We have oil for our house heat but oil is also really expensive; if left on full time we'd spend about $450 easy per month. Instead we have it set for sporadic times to turn on during the day to save money, and mostly we run our pellet stove. A decent one can be had for about $1000 and it'll run less than half the cost of using oil heat. We bought a pallet of pellets from Lowe's for $330 and we're only about halfway through the supply for this winter (but that's mainly cuz our pellet stove only heats half the house; we're getting another one installed on the other side).

In terms of costliness, it goes electric > oil > pellets/wood (but imo wood is messier, you have to stack it, keep it seasoned, and the fire needs constant feeding). Most pellet stoves have an auger/feeder which keeps the fire stoked constantly so you don't need to worry about it -- downside of that is it uses electric so if your power goes out, so does your pellet stove (wood stoves will run regardless).

Lastly, but imo most importantly -- INSULATE YOUR HOUSE. Insulate it well. It's worth paying good money to tightly seal and insulate it with the correct R value (here's a good link that tells you how much you need based on where you live: https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table)

We bought a house last year and didn't know till we were in it that it was very poorly insulated. R15 where there should be at least 23, all over the house. Some walls with zero insulation. You'd be shocked at how common this is. Most contractors and home builders cut corners everywhere they can, and since you can't see insulation behind the walls, they don't bother doing it properly. We are re-doing pretty much every wall in this house, room by room, to correctly insulate and we already feel a difference.

Ok time to get off my soapbox, hope some of this helped.

u/iaurp · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Assuming your windows are old/leaky and you can't modify or replace them, this is the way to go, OP.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

It has clear plastic film that's a bit like shrink wrap and some double-sided tape. You basically stick a piece of the film over the entire window with some of the tape and then blast it with a hair dryer (optional) to tighten it up. It will stop any air from leaking through and be basically transparent.

u/Blacksheep01 · 6 pointsr/boston

That house will definitely give you some character! You will be a tough skinned, fast walking, don't talk to anyone you don't know New Englander in no time!

But seriously though, New England is one of the oldest European occupied locations in North America, we have some old friggin' houses and apartments here. I'm in Rhode Island, although I'm in Boston constantly, but same deal applies. Here are some pro-tips for surviving winter in really old houses.

First, get yourself some shrink wrap plastic for the windows, it's in your local hardware store and even Amazon has some. Don't put this up until at least mid-October though, we can get random 70-80F degree days through Oct. 31, doesn't happen constantly, but it happens. You also want to get some under the door draft stoppers. You can get them for all outside doors or just the door to your bedroom, either way they help.

Next, get yourself multiple layers of blankets for the bed. I do this so I can pull them off/layer them up when late fall/early winter nights spike 55 degrees one night and 25 degrees the next. So it's sheets first, then a thin blanket, then a full quilt and lastly, a thick blanket that sits at the foot of your bed that can be pulled up when freezing at night (or left to just warm your feet). I have a fake fur one that is really thick for the last layer of defense.

Last, dress yourself in warmer clothes! As you are Canadian, I'm sure you can manage this, even if you are from a milder city. But dressing warmly in your own house is the most critical. I have ultra winter lounge pants, these in fact, which are very expensive, but you don't need those in particularly, you can just find furry pants like those. Wear those and thick wool socks when in your house or even sleeping (if it's that cold, I can't sleep in pants personally). I will wear these with a fake fur lined hoodie when home, so if it's really freezing cold you can pull the hood up.

That should help some! Welcome to New England and go Blue Jays...next year we'll get 'em (ugh). I'm a native New Englander but lifelong Jays fan (long story).

u/sqqueen · 6 pointsr/repurposedbuildings

Frequently stained glass gets protected by a sheet of clear plate glass outside of it. That would take care of the leakage problem.

​

I lived in an apartment (first floor of an old house) with stained glass windows and they had horrible leakage around the lead lines...you could literally feel a breeze close up to the window...my heating bill went to 1/3 when I sealed all the windows with that clear plastic film on the inside, but glass outside would have been much better. It was not mine to remodel though.

u/Tacklebill · 6 pointsr/TwinCities

It has been said by others, but let me repeat for emphasis: Layers. I know lots of people that bitch about the cold but only wear a coat over a T-shirt. Come winter, I'm wearing some kind of undershirt/thermal, a flannel/chamois/wool shirt, a vest and then a coat. Merino wool socks are awesome. Smartwool is the name brand, but you can find store brands that are much cheaper. I would suggest some kind of waterproof shoe or boot for the snow.

Get several pairs of gloves. You will lose them and going to the store with one glove sucks. I personally think glommits are the bee's knees. Warmth+dexterity when needed. Embrace the hat and have fun with it.

People have talked about a winter kit for your car, which is a good idea, but how about your house? If you have newer, quality windows (double pane Low E glass) you probably don't need to do anything, but if you live in an older house with old, drafty windows getting window film might be a good idea. If you have a drafty door, there are many adhesive-backed foam strip products to help seal those up.

Bundle up and try to enjoy winter. To me there are few things as beautiful as a crisp sunny day after a fresh snow, where everything sparkles and glimmers. So long as you're inside and drinking a cup of coffee that is.

EDIT: spaces after links.

u/YankeeTxn · 6 pointsr/Frugal

http://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-500824-Insulation-Fiberglass-Insulates/dp/B002FR5QO6

but I just replaced my existing door with an insulated one (after it was hit by a visitor's car).

u/Spacejockey9 · 6 pointsr/funny

You can get special kits for a couple of bucks on Amazon.

u/Supervisor194 · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Hi, I had a similar problem. Everything out there seemed ridiculously expensive, so I built my own solution. Essentially, it's a nice pictureframe wall-art looking thing that has soundproofing baffles (Auralex Studiofoam) on it. Very cheap but very effective - our bedroom is like a tomb when these things are hung and bonus: they're easy to hang and remove as needed.

Update: I would likely use these boards now instead of the Auralex, after learning a bit about soundproofing materials.

Hope this helps. :)

u/ned_krelly · 5 pointsr/LifeProTips

Or you can use the product specifically designed for this purpose.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

I mean yeah, your tip is good too if you are trying to insulate your tin roof shanty with found materials.

u/doubleplusunsigned · 5 pointsr/Ultralight

Polycryo is allegedly from the materials original usage as a window film insulation.

The second page of that thread suggests that Gossamer Gear made up the word.

However, there is no registration of either "polycro" nor "polycryo" in the USPTO Trademark System, which would indicate to me that it's a generic term for the material.

I also can't find any description of what specific material 3M or Duck uses.

u/arizona-lad · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

To get you by the next two winters, buy the window insulation kits:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

They go on easily, are good for all winter, and you'd be surprised at how well they reduce drafts and cold air coming into your home.

u/JoeMorrisseysSperm · 5 pointsr/rva

I'm in the Fan, in a well-insulated apartment with central air. I just paid $122, kept at 74-75 all of July and August so far. So yours sounds right.

You could buy window wrap, or other simple insulation solutions like door snakes

Unless you want to keep it at 85 during the day, and bump down to 75 at night, it's probably going to be like it is now

Edit; actually get window wrap for the winter anyway. It cuts down on draftiness significantly. I even used to shove towels and shit in my door/window cracks because I love not shivering.

u/dangerousbean · 5 pointsr/astoria

When I was in an old drafty building, this window sealant tape around the frames worked wonders for eliminating drafts:https://www.amazon.com/3M-Interior-Transparent-Weather-1-5-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFF

I now have the opposite problem in my apartment where the landlord blasts heat so we have to have all windows open throughout winter and use a/c units and fans to keep it down to a reasonable temperature.

u/r_syzygy · 5 pointsr/Ultralight

When I use a tarp, I bring a complementary bug net if it'll be buggy or sleep inside a lightweight bivy. Both protect my pad and bag from the floor and protect me from bugs and any potential splashback in storms.

If you don't want to go that route, I would grab some of that winter window sealing plastic aka Polycro or some Tyvek or whatever to throw down under your expensive gear.

u/johnnyhk · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You can get inflatable dampers like this one to seal out the cold air. Obviously you need to make sure you get the appropriate size/shape for your fireplace. I haven't used it myself, but the reviews look promising.

u/ErroneousFunk · 5 pointsr/hermitcrabs

I got some thermal bubble wrap last week and made a cover for my tank, which I recently upgrade from 10G to 29G. I was shocked at how effective it was! I had three UTH heaters that I cobbled together, but they were still struggling to keep it at 75. After adding the insulation I was able to unplug all but one of them. I was checking on it every half hour or so and went "whoa nelly!" as the temps got to 85 degrees with the same heating setup (they probably would have kept climbing, too!)

My house has gotten down to 68 degrees recently, but the tank is maintained at 80 during the day with 25W lamp and 75 at night (with a warm spot up to 84 and cold spot down to 77 during the day). Planning on plugging in another UTH heater if I need to, if we let the house get a little colder during the winter, especially at night. I can always add panels to the current insulation for emergency situations if I need to as well.

I got the wrap from here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS There are probably ways to get smaller quantities and/or get it cheaper than $20, but I was also thinking about insulating some basement windows we don't like, so I just went and got 10' of it!

The tank wrapper was a little tricky to make: https://imgur.com/a/7gPYNpH I measured really well, cut accurately and made a box out of it. It wraps all the way around on the sides facing the wall, and wraps 3" over the top (covering the plastic/cords/cord gap, which makes it more escape proof!) and about 5" on the other side to add a little more insulation. I scored the opposite side of the bubble wrap (cut halfway through) when folding the corners -- that way you get a sharp edge instead of an awkward "wrap around." And then just added a little aluminum foil tape to the 3" sections where it attaches to itself in the corners at the top and voila!

To make it really nice, I glued some velcro strips to the black plastic on the tank, and corresponding velcro strips to my thermal box, so I can stick it on and get it really snug and secure. There are a few sticky velcro dots holding it on the top -- I got a little lazy and didn't want to glue anymore :(

Anyway, it took a bit to get it right, but all told, it was only $5 in materials (if you pro-rate the roll of thermal insulation by how much I actually used) and increases the temps by at least 10 degrees F over what I was getting before! Super amazing stuff!

u/TheNewJasonBourne · 5 pointsr/DIY

This. https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-500824-Garage-Insulation/dp/B002FR5QO6/

The previous owners of my house installed this and it clearly makes a large difference.

u/cybrshrk · 5 pointsr/Frugal
u/HugeRichard11 · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I assume something like this: Duck Brand Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch, 286216 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p0DVDb75HZMW

I put it on some really drafty windows and you can tell they work during the days with 30mph winds the plastic will start to creek as it's keeping the windy cold air out.

u/HippySol · 4 pointsr/alberta

Methinks there is more to this story because it's unlikely that a landlord would threaten an eviction in a smoking suite for smoking.

I can tell you this - you win more bees with honey. You're not going to get a positive reaction from your landlord by trying to force her to do anything let alone a maintenance item that may easily not be considered 'serious' at least, not in the sense of safety it's not.

If I were you, I would write an email to the landlord saying that the drafty window is bothering you and would it be ok if you covered the window with plastic film to keep it from drafting all winter.

https://www.amazon.ca/3M-2141W-6-Indoor-Window-Insulator/dp/B00002NCJI?source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_7tyimd75v4_e

This stuff goes on in about 5 minutes, and it's very effective in sealing off a drafty window. You peel it off in spring. No big deal. Problem solved.

If you're nice, the landlord will probably let you deduct the cost off your rent. If she's still pissed, well, it's only 20 bucks.

u/JimmyBuffalo · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I don't think the stuff is that expensive.

This is what I suggest.

This is enough for 90 Square Feet.

You said you have a door to cover right? Assuming that the door is 36x80" you'd have enough film to cover (at least) four entry doors.

So I would say two boxes...that's like $25 plus the cost of painter's tape...so to be safe I would think you can do all of it for less than $50.

u/cruceno · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

That, along with some doublestick tape will probably do the trick. BUT if I had my choice, I prefer this stuff because it's shrinkable and crystal clear. I've used it with excellent results in a house that was built in the 19teens and was drafty as heck.

Big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, etc) should sell something comparable.

u/mirgaine_life · 4 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

These will be your best friend. It's like saran wrap that you wrap the window frame (and window) in. You use a hairdryer to get it all tight and it creates a pocket of air for insulation. It doesn't help quite as much with sound, but it's shocking how well it helps with heat retention. That and curtains will help immensely (and will help with sound too) look for really thick ones, or the "blackout AND insulated" ones and it will help with heat and noise.

Or you can get a space heater, those things rock.

You also can talk to your roommate about it. "Hey, I've noticed it's been a bit chilly lately--" and see what happens.

I hope you get warm soon! Enjoy basking in your showers in the meantime!

u/val319 · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Here’s what it looks like as suggested by u/bloodshotnipples 3M 2141BW-6 Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rOPYDbMBJ0CYP you apply it with the adhesive and usually use a hair dryer to get it nice and sealed.

u/itsmymillertime · 4 pointsr/LifeProTips

they sell this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Patio-Insulator-1-Patio/dp/B0000CBJ80

some you put outside the house and some inside. Basically tape around the edge of the door/windows and apply "shrink wrap" like material. Grab a hair dryer and heatshrink it.

u/docbond · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If the garage is dry-walled you can cut 1" holes in the wall and have insulation blown in. You then patch the holes. Is the garage ceiling dry-walled? Is there a crawl space between it and the floor above? If you can fit into the space then you should find a way to lay proper insulation.

As for the garage door you should purchase a threshold that either attaches to the floor or the bottom of the door: EXAMPLE

Also look into purchasing insulation for the door. This product has great reviews: Reflectix

u/s0rce · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You probably don't want blackout curtains, that will absorb all the incident sun light and radiate heat indoors. You want something reflective to reflect the incoming sunlight back out the window. Something like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKM8EG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00CST53LW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0BFHK527AAVRR79DTKMD

or a simple white solar shade could be helpful.

u/Fenix159 · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

So... you're looking to modify your current MT by adding a kettle into it?

I mean yeah you'd get better temperature stability, but that seems like an awful lot of work. You could probably accomplish the same thing by just getting some reflectix or something like that and wrapping a kettle.

u/MrDorkESQ · 4 pointsr/DIY

Since the width of a true sphere chair is 48" (122cm).

get a 120cm exercise ball.

Cover the ball with 1 layer of painter's tape or 1 layer of paper mache'.

Radially layout thick foam weather stripping.

Add more weather strip as the edge using one of the ridged lines that are around the ball as a guide. This will define your opening.

Fill in the the gaps between the weather stripping with spray foam. let cure.

Shape the foam with surfboad shaping tools.

Glass the outside of the foam. I think you would need 3 layers.

Deflate the ball. (you did make sure that the fill hole was facing out didn't you?)

Glass the inside of the foam and finish.

EDIT: Instead of weather stripping, you can use 3/4" pex tubing and double stick tape (the really sticky foam stuff). You can wire it all together and fill it with foam. That with be more rigid and it will give you a nice rounded edge at the opening of the chair.

u/diarrhea-island · 4 pointsr/DIY
u/schmuckmulligan · 4 pointsr/Ultralight

Focusing on bang for buck:

  • Save yourself 4.5 oz with nylofume liner bags instead of the stuff sack. $2.50.

  • Save 4 oz. (ish) by replacing the Tyvek footprint with one made from 0.7 mil window film. $4. The tent itself is heavy, but if you're digging it, no sweat.

  • A pound and a half of weight savings could be had by going to a quilt. If you go this way, there are a lot worse than the Hammock Gear Economy Burrow -- you'll want a wide. $180 for a 30 degree (a bit of rating buffer is nice).

  • 7 oz. Replace those soccer pants with some dance pants. $17.95.

  • 12 oz.-ish. I'd dump outright the cotton long sleeve and sweater in exchange for a thrift store fleece. If your current sleeping bag is only good down to 40, you're probably not in cold enough temps where a puffy jacket becomes more important. $10.

  • 1 pound. Replace those pots and mugs and the like with IMUSA grease pots. The 0.7 quart (10 cm) and the 1.25 quart (12 cm) are probably going to be the best options. I'm spitballing the weight savings here, because I really think you can make do with less -- most of us roll with one pot/mug total, for everything. Try lids made out of tinfoil or a disposable aluminum pie tin. $10.

  • 4 oz. Replace that water bottle with a Smartwater bottle. $2.

  • 2 oz. Nitecore NU25 headlamp exists, but at $25, it's not the cheapest suggestion here.

  • 2 oz. First aid kit --just dig in and throw away redundant items. Focus on getting rid of any liquids or goops in there. Repackage into a sandwich-size Ziploc.

  • 6 oz. Dump the paracord. If you're using it for bear bagging, you might try some lightweight nylon string instead, which will usually weigh an oz for 50 feet. 1.75 mm Zing-It is a go to, but I've also just used light nylon utility string from the hardware store, without problems. $5 if you go with the cheap stuff.

  • 4 oz. Repackage that sunscreen! You probably only need an ounce, max, for most trips. An old prescription bottle can work nicely for this, as can one of those 5-Hour Energy bottles. $2.

    In total, I get 85 oz. (or 5.3 pounds!) weight savings for a total cost of around $250, or you can do 3.8 pounds for $70 (no new quilt) or even 3.7 pounds for $45 (scratch the headlamp suggestion).
u/ghostofhenryvii · 4 pointsr/howto

Seal it with something like this.

Then cover it with insulating curtains.

u/butcherbob1 · 4 pointsr/Filmmakers

Ah, a question I can help with as it's right up my alley (audio engineer).

Simply put, sound bounces around like balls on a pool table, loves hard surfaces and tends to pile up in corners so your best angle of attack is to soften the rebound. First get some carpeting going on, the thicker the better. It doesn't have to be wall to wall but it needs to cover at least 80% of the floor. That will eliminate a lot of the vertical bouncing.

Next go get some of this stuff. Build some wooden frames for it and cover them in burlap, hang them on the wall. You shouldn't need more than one box for a single car garage, two for a double. They don't have to be butted up edge to edge, you can spread them out. Keep putting them up till the reverb goes away.

If you do that and it still sounds boomy, you probably have a problem with low frequencies building up in the corners. Google up corner traps and build a couple. It's a little more involved but basically the same thing as the panels. That should get you going in the right direction!

u/Nerd_so_hard · 3 pointsr/pittsburgh

Window Insulation Kit.

Their ugly and a pain in the ass, but they really do reduce the amount of cold coming through your windows. You don't have to cover every window in the house, just the ones that matter, like one right next to your bed or maybe your bathroom.

u/nolehusker · 3 pointsr/personalfinance

This is good and here's what I would do.

  1. Make sure that the house is 100% yours as /u/catholicwannabe2 has pointed out.

  2. Come up with a plan. You've already noted that siding and carpet are a want. You haven't determined on windows yet, but I'm assuming that they are doing their job for the most part (that is that there is still glass in them that is not broken). If they are leaking maybe get a seal kit until you have enough money to get new ones. Prioritize things you need or want fixed.

  3. Tell your grandma your plan and don't budge from it. There is no point in taking out money on this to go into debt and pay loan fees and what not when it sounds like you could probably save up enough money to fix these within a year or two.
u/salvagestuff · 3 pointsr/houston

How is the insulation in the place? Maybe convincing the landlord to let you add a few more inches of attic insulation might help.

You could also get thermally insulated blackout curtains. They reject more light and heat than blinds.

If you have single pane windows, consider window insulation film. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

u/pblood40 · 3 pointsr/DIY

Hardware store should sell kits of plastic you can install on inside of window for added insulation. How old is the house? Earlier than around 1970 and it will have almost no insulation at all.


http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

u/terrick · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

So, there is a bunch you can do. Some of it is dependent on how much you have to spend and what the owner (maybe you, maybe not) is willing to do.

Your most cost effective bet is to a product like this on your windows. This will really cut down on drafts.

You can add drapes that cover much of the walls, which will help, but only marginally. This would be more expensive and should be done on top of the plastic film.

If you don't own the apartment, you can ask your landlord to do something about it, including putting in new windows or blowing in insulation.

As others noted, keep the door opened and make sure your vents are open. You can also use ceiling fans to improve air circulation.

I would generally avoid heaters as they can be fire hazards, but if you have to use one, buy one that is the appropriate size.

u/mercuric5i2 · 3 pointsr/Austin

Indeed. However, if you've ever lived in a leaky apartment with electric heat, that can result in 3 very high electric bills.

Anyways, in my experience, Austin Energy doesn't help with apartments. Talk to your landlord, they may be able to help.

If you must DIY, which is pretty likely, the film can be obtained via Amazon for notably less than local purchase.

You can also install polyisocyanurate insulation on single-pane windows to further prevent heat transfer. Cut to press-fit into the window frame, then use duck tape to form an air-tight seal around the frame. It's pretty easy to work with, a boxcutter will make clean cuts through it. This helps a lot with through-the-glass heat transfer, but not with leaky window frames. You'll want to use paper to line the insulation (on the outside) to avoid complaints from the landlord, since you want to face the foil outwards for best results.

If you're like me and can't stand the cold, and like your apartment toasty in the winter, look for a unit with gas heat on your next move. Electric heat is way too expensive... Gas is more effective and significantly less expensive.

u/haroldthehobo · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

People normally buy window insulation kits like this. They also sell them in patio door sized sheets, which can easily be cut down to fit most larger tents.

u/MrF33 · 3 pointsr/howto

Do you want to let light in?

Then this

Do you want MAXIMUM INSULATION(without actually rebuilding the house)?

Get a few blocks of this stuff and use it to cover your windows.

But really, what you want to do is make sure that your windows are all well caulked, that your doors fit well and things like that.

Cutting down on the air coming into your room around the windows will do a lot for helping keep you nice and toasty this winter.

u/BasicBrewing · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If you aren't properly insulated, speace heaters won't help much.

Do you need to use the door? If not, you're better off doing a full plastic liner. Same with the windows

What is a tin window?

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/tifu

Lemme try that not on mobile: you need to buy yourself a Window Insulation Kit and apply it to your windows so that it creates another pocket of air and decreases the rate your house loses warmth. This will save you money on heating bills.

u/ak_kitaq · 3 pointsr/HVAC

I'm a professional mechanical engineer and a Certified Energy Auditor per the AEE.

Here's a couple things I did for my house that helped. They might help you.

Weatherize the garage: Add a floor threshold to the garage. Best done in the summer. Replace the weather seal on the top and sides. Replace the garage door threshold. All Amazon links. Measure your door and get the correct dimensions. I just linked to general items.

Weatherize your outlets and light switches: All holes through the wall allow tempered air to leak out. (nice warm air in the winter, nice cool air in the summer). With a flathead screwdriver, you can add gasket seals to all of your switches and outlets to reduce air leakage.

Weatherize doors and windows: If there are doors and windows that you don't use often, or don't use for a season, seal them off. If you use a door more frequently, there's lots of draft dodgers to help seal the door. Growing up, if it got super cold, we'd take a spare down comforter and nail it to the wall, totally covering the door.

As far as thermostats go, changing out the thermostat to a wifi thermostat and/or a programmable thermostat will go a long ways towards energy savings. Nest is definitely the best thermostat out there, but I recognize that it's the most expensive. In my opinion, the Nest is the best one because it has the best developed home/away sensors, has a clean and slick easy-to-use app (even for 8 thermostats like you'd have), and easiest to use scheduler. Don't change just one thermostat. Change all of them. At the very least, change the thermostat to a programmable one.

In general, it would help to go through the weatherproofing page of Amazon and buy and install anything that applies to your home and apartment.

As far as capital equipment, replacing boilers with condensing boilers can help, but remember that condensing boilers provide the most savings at the temperature extremes. during shoulder seasons. Consult a local professional mechanical engineer to determine if they will really benefit your location.

edit: had a brain fart when i wrote this. condensing boilers provide the most savings at the shoulder seasons. take a place like Fairbanks, AK, which, aside from this winter, generally spends most of the winter at the design outdoor temperature of -40. a condensing boiler operating at the design limit doesn't provide any more savings than a "standard" 80% AFUE efficient boiler. just doing my part to avoid spreading misinformation on the internet.

u/Guygan · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Available at any home store. Works great, cheap, removable.

u/wdjm · 3 pointsr/DIY

Easiest & cheapest way is to get something like this to seal it up for the winter. It's not a permanent fix and you'd have to repeat it each winter, but it does work and work pretty well (especially for what you in Fla would call 'cold' :) )

u/vtslim · 3 pointsr/homeowners

Yeah, fireplace should be closed up - possible to lose more heat up the chimney than it provides. Is the damper closed? You can also stuff some insulation up into the chimney as a stop gap (don't want heat sucking up out of the house).

Now might be the time to put plastic on your windows. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Can make a big difference if your windows are drafty.

Also, curtains. The thicker the better, but any curtains are better than no curtains. Just close 'em up at night and they'll reduce the amount of heat your house radiates out to the night sky through the windows.

u/tommypaintrain · 3 pointsr/legaladvice

Hardware stores, Lowe's, and probably Walmart have cling wrap. Measure your windows before you go, get a wrap a little bigger than the window, and apply with a hairdryer. Honestly, windows are so expensive that it's not worth fighting with your landlord to have them tell you no anyway—not legal advice.

3M 2141BW-6 Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_zqJVDbDW0ZH52

u/11787 · 3 pointsr/HVAC

Low hanging fruit?? Put some shrink plastic on the windows.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481845952&sr=8-3&keywords=window+shrink+film+insulation

The tape may take off paint in the spring so tape where it will be easy to touch up.

u/belandil · 3 pointsr/DIY
u/atistang · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Depending on how good your windows are, you might consider covering them with a plastic film such as the one linked below. That could help your heat pump keep up in these cold days. You could also get a space heater of some sort to help out in the rooms you are in at the time.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

u/bgalli · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

They sell plastic sheets with double sided tape... it goes around the window and use a blow dryer to take wrinkles out of plastic, done!

Adds a layer of air insulation. Really helps stop drafts

Edit https://www.amazon.ca/3M-2141W-6-Indoor-Window-Insulator/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=window+plastic+insulation+kit&qid=1569944548&sprefix=window+plas&sr=8-4

u/sweatbander · 3 pointsr/Frugal

Sounds like one of those places you could heat and heat and still not be real warm. Those old homes were meant for wood stoves and steam radiators. My grandmother had an old coal boiler in her home and when it was going you'd have to throw open all the windows.

Covering the windows with window plastic should pay for itself. Also, weatherstripping any leaks in exterior doors is fairly easy to DIY.

u/neuromonkey · 3 pointsr/DIY

Ug. That sucks.

What's your budget?

If I wanted to knock the heat down a lot, I'd wrap the pipes in plain fiberglass insulation, single-faced. (paper facing goes on the outside.) (Plain wall insulation wrapped in a spiral--pipe insulation is more expensive,) and then wrap that in non-perforated reflective bubble insulation.

Wrap the fiberglass loosely, you want as much air space as possible. Then surround it with foil or Reflectix. Then tape the entire thing (there are some perty colored duct tapes I get at a salvage store,) so it doesn't drop threads of fiberglass on you.

Or, on the cheap, just use taped Reflectix.

u/drtonmeister · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Just get a shrink film window sealing kit with plastic film large enough to cover your opening. You can apply the tape to the metal frame of the upper part, and the top and face of the lower screen and screen flap. The film won't mind that there are a few "steps" into the room involved. You can seal to the painted alcove wall and the sill, but check first in an inconspicuous spot that the tape doesn't damage the paint.

u/Logan_Gibson · 3 pointsr/overlanding

Reflectix would probably work in this scenario as well, not sure how expensive those sun reflectors are.

u/Slightlyoffbalance · 3 pointsr/cigars

I live in Ohio and so far this winter one thing has made a huge difference in my comfort level smoking outside, refletics. https://www.amazon.com/REFLECTIX-BP24010-x10-Foil-Insulation/dp/B000BPF22U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542775164&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=reflectics&dpPl=1&dpID=41YkqP%2BF7AL&ref=plSrch
I place it down on the lawn chair I sit in and the difference is amazing. Pair that with a wind block and heater.

u/Chernoobyl · 3 pointsr/CampingGear

Reflectix is this shiny insulation stuff (similar to a car sun visor) you can get at hardware stores. It's really easy to work with and makes great insulated cozys or bags for dehydrated meals.

Here's a quick tutorial on how to make them, again it's pretty straightforward - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FTln2_5Pgo

This is reflectix, if you are decently crafty it's pretty straight forward to make a little thing to put a tupperware in to keep it warm -
https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496262196&sr=1-1

and Here is the type of tupperware I was mentioning, I've used them as a bowl on many trips and they have always worked great (they have 2 different sizes) - https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Twist-Containers-Small-Lids/dp/B003UEGZCA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496262262&sr=8-2

u/skytomorrownow · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

I recently got a roll of Reflectix to bump up the warmth and protect the air mattress. It folds down small and is very lightweight. But, more than a little more heat, I feel it will take any thorns or other pokey things that might come through the tent floor or if I'm cowboy camping.

u/notahotdesk · 3 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

When I was a student, I used to live in a downstairs room that was always freezing (unlike the rest of the house). I ended up putting some temporary window sheets up to fake double-glazing (http://www.amazon.com/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG Like that, your local DIY store would likely have some and I've seen people DIY it with household stuff like clingfilm).

The other thing to do is make sure all the drafts are sealed up - fill in any gaps around the window frame with some caulk or similar, and if you can change the curtains, opt for something much heavier (like a velvet or heavy-lined) to act as a draft excluder - I had these ugly red velvet curtains in that house that I basically kept closed all winter.

http://www.selleys.com/home-improvement/living-room-renovation/filling-gaps-and-prevent-draughts/

P.S. There's some cute draft excluders on etsy for along windowsils and bottoms of doors: https://www.etsy.com/listing/218215925/chevron-door-stopper-draft-dodger

u/LastUsernameSucked · 3 pointsr/CampingGear

+1 for the lanshan. They’re also on amazon (yes, it’s the same tent. Mier is just a rebrand)

MIER Ultralight Tent 3-Season Backpacking Tent for 1-Person or 2-Person Camping, Trekking, Kayaking, Climbing, Hiking (Trekking Pole is NOT Included), White, 2-Person https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8S54NH/

For a UL ground sheet get some polycro and cut to size.

Duck Brand Indoor Extra Large Window/Patio Door Shrink Film Kit, 84-Inch x 120-Inch, 282450 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHW2Z6/

u/Fargin_Iceholes · 3 pointsr/pics

That's just stupid. Anyone in that school could obtain and install a window insulating kit for about $8 as a (literal) stopgap solution.

u/ffeverdream · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

the ground sheet you saw in the tarp video is polycro. lightweight and pretty tough. You can buy it as a window insulation kit like this on the cheap and cut to size. It should be in 1-2oz range. Tyvek is the other option at 4-5oz

u/Bobeerto · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

A link for the lazy. $5 for a 7x10 (patio door size) sheet.

u/zerostyle · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

Which footprint option would you use for the 1p tartptent notch? I believe the actual bathtub is around 34" wide x 8-9 feet.

I have this 84" x 120" window polycro that I bought intending to use for a 2p tent, and could probably cut it in two, but might want something more durable for car camping.

I realize it doesn't -need it-, but I'm trying to avoid getting mud on the bottom of my tent so I can keep the time cleaning it down.

u/Coonboy888 · 3 pointsr/Ultralight
u/SrslyYouToo · 3 pointsr/breakingmom

Yeah, thats not how things are done here at all! If you have drafty windows you either pay out your ass for heating bills or you cover them in shrink wrap.

u/ritchie70 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Absolutely. They actually make window plastic kits.

For example, Duck Brand Indoor 5-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 210-Inch, 281504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHY1P0/

u/zorkmids · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

Polycro makes a good ground sheet. Here's a good source

u/wishiwasAyla · 3 pointsr/Frugal

i think your first step should be to try opening the curtains during the day so you can get some solar heat gain, and only closing them when the little one is sleeping. any heat gained during the day will help keep it warmer in there at night too. you can also look into using a window insulating film like this during the colder months to keep drafts out and keep the heat in.

as for a space heater, you could try to wall-mount one or put it on a high shelf so that it is well out of his reach. if there's a ceiling fan in the room, reverse it so it blows up and turn it on low to recirculate the heated air back down toward the floor.

as for having to close the door, is there a particular reason you want to keep kitty out?

u/Bobby_Marks2 · 3 pointsr/Parenting

As someone intimately aware alcoholism and bipolar in parents and roommates - don't live with your mom.

Babies suck. Newborns shit at least a dozen times a day, only sleep for like 2-3 hours at a time at best, and cry because it's the only way they can communicate. It sucks. As a stay-at-home dad who raised two of them, I have a theory that all parents eventually abandon dealing with the poop smell, because we've grown so accustomed that we just don't smell it.

My solution to noise, for parents or anyone else in the house, is noise cancelling headphones and soft music. They start at about $30 on Amazon, and between noise-cancelling and listening to soft music through them, you will hardly hear the baby cry. Even regular headphones can do the trick, if they are the bulky around-the-ears type. And if you can pull together a couple hundred bucks, something like these headphones will change your life in more ways than one.

Alternatively, if you are looking to sleep and can't do that with headphones, you could look into soundproofing your room or building a box around the head of your bed. These are what you would use, although you'd definitely want to cover them with a cheap fabric of some kind as fiberglass is not fun to breathe or touch (Walmart is great for that, or you can use old towels/blankets). It's not a solution for everyone, but as someone who built an isolation room for sound recording I can say it works really well.

I know money is hard to come by at that age, and I know these solutions aren't perfect. I'm sorry babies suck.

u/SouthFresh · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

Frame it in some 2x2s and stretch fabric over it. Add a couple and you'll be good.

u/R_DUBYA_STL · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Also, this was amazing for the outside of the door. Did them both the same day.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BR9TBU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_LD9nxbQ9FMDF1

u/crystallyn · 2 pointsr/boston

If you are in an apartment you may not have some of the options for winterproofing that people are outlining below. Get to Home Depot or your local hardware store and look for Window Insulators or weather kits. Something like this kit. Basically it's a sheet of plastic that you tape to the edges of your window and seal/smooth with a hair dryer. I've had to do this in my apartments and it makes an IMMENSE difference if you have drafty windows. Be careful when removing them in the spring so you don't pull off paint.

u/BackOfTheHearse · 2 pointsr/sfx

Maybe get some of that insulating film for windows? You stretch it over the window (or in your case, the screen) and then use a hair dryer to smooth out any wrinkles or stretch marks.

u/tarragon_mann · 2 pointsr/HVAC

Get yourself that shrink plastic film to make an interior storm window. And get some weatherstripping for the door. Electricity is expensive heat and you don't want to waste it.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1415745224&sr=8-3&keywords=plastic+film+for+windows

u/braindeadzombie · 2 pointsr/askTO

Depending on the size/shape of the windows, a product like this might do the trick. https://www.amazon.ca/3M-2141W-6-Indoor-Window-Insulator/dp/B00002NCJI

You can find them by searching for Window insulator kit.

It’s double sided tape and plastic film. You put it in place, then hit it with a hair dryer to make the plastic shrink. When it is all tight it’s mostly invisible.

u/ritzreddit · 2 pointsr/Advice

Omniheat technology from Columbia Sportswear. Highly recommend. Get the jacket, and the snow shoes. Lightweight but super warm because it reflects your own body heat back at you.

https://www.columbia.com/

​

Plastic on the windows is a great energy saver

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538434915&sr=8-2&keywords=plastic+window+covering+for+winter

​

At least 2 ice scraper/snow brush combo tools. One in the car and one in your home

An electric throw blanket for the couch

Mug warmer for tea/coffee at your desk or also home

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​

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u/AmateurSparky · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

>temporarily this winter

Install a window insulation film on the trim.

For permanent, that window looks fairly old. Do you have access under the deck if you want to seal it off, or to replace the window and seal it from the outside?

u/jtunzi · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

> We would be improving the value of the house and improve the insulation with good windows

How much are you expecting to save per year in power cost and how much would it increase the home value? I don't think it's wise to sink $10-15k unless you know exactly when it will pay itself off.

You can address the efficiency issue in the short term with these while you save up for replacement windows.

u/digitalhaas · 2 pointsr/Frugal

buy some of that insulated clear plastic that goes over the windows.

Like this:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

u/johnkiniston · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Air seal your windows with plastic if they are even a little drafty using something like a window sealing kit: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Get a electric blanket for your bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J9CEW4

Put a blanket on the water heater too: https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-SP60-Insulation-Blanket/dp/B000DZKW4G

u/ckisela · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get yourself a few of these and you’ll be dialed.

u/Eccentrica_Gallumbit · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

First question, do you own or rent the condo? This will play a major role in what you can or cannot do.

For windows, you can get a window insulation kit to put around the windows. This creates an air barrier between the window and the film that acts as insulation.

>Is there a way to figure out where the inneficiencies are in the house, other than running your hand around the joints and feel for air. And how can I fix them?

If you own the condo, look into your local electric company and see if they offer any sort of home energy audit. Worst case, you could pay to have one done. They typically run a blower door test and can determine where the leaks are with a smoke machine or puffer. They may also use a FLIR camera to look for signs of leaks due to temperature differences. They will suggest fixes for the house, and offer up what you can expect to save vs what it will cost you to do the repairs.

u/xanthia · 2 pointsr/fringefashion

Have you tried plastic sealing the windows? It REALLY helps. Not the right size, but you get the idea. No damage and easy to remove in the spring when you want to use the window.

You had a crazy day, I hope you can relax a bit!

u/Cutlasss · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The 2 principles you need to understand in insulating a house are conduction and convection. To (over) simplify, if you place your hand against something, a door, window, wall, ceiling, floor, and it is notably colder than the ambient air of the house, then it is conducting the cold. (Actually, it's conducting the heat out of the house, and leaving cold behind, but never mind the distinction.) But if you have an actual air transfer, there's a draft anywhere, then that's convection. Warm air is leaving, cold air is entering.

Windows and doors are considered the main culprits of heat loss not necessarily because of conduction, but because of convection. They don't seal the opening tight enough, and air leaks by them. So this is the first thing you look for, is places where the air is leaking past or through something. And it's not always the windows and doors. Finding and sealing them is your first priority. Now that may be the windows and doors if they are of poor quality, or not the best possible installation. But that's generally not true of a 10-15 year old window, and you've had them inspected. If a window is leaking air around the panes, then the interior glass may feel a lot colder not because it's conducting cold, but because the convection around it is cooling the interior of it.

Windows and doors will also conduct heat/cold. But so will walls, foundations, and ceilings. If someone in your area does an energy audit inspection, you might want to do that, in order to find which is your house's weakest points. And then concentrate your efforts and costs there first.

If your windows are leaking air, then the simplest, easiest, least costly, short term fix is clear window covering plastic. Which you put on in the winter and remove in the summer. If your windows are conducting cold, then heavy drapes, like the other user said, will reduce airflow past the window, and reduce the problem. That's less work and cost, and a less permanent change than what I think the shutters you're talking about would be. And then eventually change the windows.

But you should also be looking into other sources of heat loss. They may matter more.

As to your patio door, older sliding glass doors have a habit of not being very air tight. Having a closed porch beyond it would help. Switching from a sliding door to a hinged glass door would probably provide better air seals. Or you could put a plastic sheet over the whole thing for the winter.

Putting another 6-8 inches of insulation in the attic is often one of the cheapest improvements you can make. Reinsulating the walls can be costly, but in an older house can make a lot of difference. Sealing any gap where the house meets the foundation is an overlooked, but important step. As is insulating basement walls.

u/caddis789 · 2 pointsr/DIY

For about $20, you can get this. It's enough to do 5 3'x 5' windows. Or you can buy the tape by itself.

u/Albafika · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures
u/crackinmypants · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

I use foam weatherstripping like this under all of my tanks. I just stick it to the top of the stands. It's pretty cheap, and I think it works well. Can't say for sure because I've never had a tank crack from stress is many, many years of fish keeping. I figure it can't hurt, though. edit:more detail

u/Anne657 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I have no experience with rope caulk but we had good results with the 3M tape. It adhered well to glass, metal and wood and it was very easy to remove without leaving a bunch of residue behind. I wouldn't recommend regular packing tape because it might be difficult to peel off and I'd be concerned about it accidentally taking bits of varnish and paint with it.


u/dubbl_bubbl · 2 pointsr/AskReddit
u/mcesh · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yep, I have a 1930 house in California that doesn't have a damper, so I bought a draft stopper balloon thing like this, it works well but takes some time to get into all the nooks and crannies - check YouTube for videos of people installing them. Your flue is probably cleaner than mine was, but prepare for some mess (it didn't help that my cat jumped up into the chimney on top of the firebox while my back was turned - he was dark grey for a while..).

u/Sir_Scrotum · 2 pointsr/DIY

Put Reflectix on all windows and light sources. Turned my hot box RV into a cool dream w/ window and portable A/C.

u/LitlThisLitlThat · 2 pointsr/liveaboard

Reflectix BP24050 24-Inch-by-50-Foot Bubble Pack Insulation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009XCJA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Vw-XBb0V5FC1B

This stuff. Sorry I don’t know how to make links on mobile. No, this is not an affiliate link, just a link to what I had saved on Amazon. Others can give their opinions on which brands are better, I’m just linking to this roll for information purposes.

u/dont_be_a_buscuit · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/alehasfriends · 2 pointsr/homeless

I'm a big fan of sleeping in vehicles to save on rent. I've lived in my truck for 2+ years, and I love it.

What kind of car do you have? Do the back seats fold down for you to sleep like that? You can also sleep across the interior but you'll have to black out all the windows and buy a sun shade.

I have curtains using hooks, binder clips, and bungee cords, but I'm going to switch to Reflectix soon. Look up some YouTube videos on ideas how to do it. I got the idea from these guys.

You've got some spaces and some friends so you don't necessarily need a gym membership to keep up with hygiene, but you need a place to make shits. You'll find those places no problem; I'd just keep some sanitary wipes to clean the toilet seats.

u/bnmm44 · 2 pointsr/CarSleeping

I cut Reflectix in the shape of my windows, and duct taped black fabric to one side. Blacks out the windows and provides a little insulation (I only camp in winter when skiing).

Reflectix: https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-48-Inch-10-Feet-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538621730&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Reflectix&dpPl=1&dpID=31Io%2BmGxiWL&ref=plSrch

u/mike5999 · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

You could probably get a nicer look by using this Bubble Pack Insulation

u/MadAppointment · 2 pointsr/Coachella

I did this last year and it worked great! This year I am upgrading to bubble wrap insulation: https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO I got a wide roll of it at a hardware store and plan to duct tape it to the tent then tie rope over it.

u/sillycyco · 2 pointsr/firewater

> Ahh okay yes that makes sense, what do you usually use for insulation?

Foam pipe insulation works well, or a few wraps with Reflectix works well. Reflectix also looks really nice, taped up with foil HVAC tape.

u/somerandomgeologist · 2 pointsr/BurningMan

Cover all windows with this https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501096818&sr=8-2&keywords=reflectix
use red Stucco tape to cover the exterior windows. It keeps a lot of heat out.

u/iynque · 2 pointsr/Hammocks

I made myself a Reflectix sleeping pad when I first got my hammock. Reflectix is basically two layers of bubble wrap sandwiched between two layers of Mylar/space blankets. It helps, and helps quite a bit—you might even get away with on a warm summer night—but it's nothing compared to even a cheap, low-quality underquilt.

I'd say bring the space blanket since they're so cheap and light, but there's a reason everyone has/recommends underquilts. You can't skip it, as I learned firsthand.

u/funkybum · 2 pointsr/DIY

http://www.amazon.com/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406364384&sr=8-4&keywords=Window+tint

Just installed this at my dad's new office. I can't speak to the day version but this has a shiny reflective feeling to it that didn't let me look in. In the middle of application I walked outside on a bright 90* Fahrenheit day and looked at the window my dad was working on. You could easily see him quite clearly in the section that did not have tint. The other half of the window did have the film and just reflected my view so I would see clouds and the sky BUT I saw the light fixture in the office. I did NOT see him. Not even a shadowy figure. Just a head shaped object(that from my angle looked like clouds and the blue sky) covered up a portion of the light fixture. Any window film should be a great help and I doubt you'll have a bad experience with any window film unless you get a transparent one. I say go for the type of tint that you would like to have in that location. Black? Slight blue or green tinge to it? Reflective like a mirror? I'm sure you've seen the different styles in cars. Hell, some are even red! There are two ratings usually given to window film. Heat index and light index. I'm guessing you want the one that does not allow much light to enter or one with a reflective material which I personally believe is the best option for a house. Black tint works better for a car in my personal opinion.

u/s0v3r1gn · 2 pointsr/phoenix

Curtains suck. [This](Gila LES361 Heat Control Residential Window Film, Platinum, 36-Inch by 15-Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKM8EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CazAxbCC8GFT1) is what I used. My front window is my home office, it faces East and receives direct morning sunlight with no other houses in the way to block any of the light. This tint easily keeps it 15-20 degrees cooler during the summer, it's amazing.

u/humanman42 · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I think windows (for the most part) block UV rays and those are what yellow/fade things.

I know you can get uv window film for added protection if you want.

u/ChariotOfFire · 2 pointsr/HVAC

You could also try applying some reflective film like this on your windows, particularly any that face south.

u/ncc1776 · 2 pointsr/orlando

This is the one I got: Gila Heat Control Platinum Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film Sun Blocking Glare Reduction 3ft x 15ft (36in x 180in) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKM8EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H1z7CbH1M0RRW

They are very much removable and definitely suitable for renters. The first window you do will be difficult, but you'll eventually get the hang of it.

u/Calufa01 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If your apartment gets full, direct sun, get some thermal curtains and reflective window film. Gila puts out a window film kit that works well and can be easily removed when you need to move. You can find it at Lowes and Home Depot. If you get the film, be sure you get the Application Kit for it too.

I had this same issue in my old apartment. The AC would run full tilt, without stopping, and I'd be lucky to see temps below 85F in the summer. I was on the top floor and got full afternoon sun. The curtains and film helped drop the temp a few degrees.

u/Doctor_Lizardo · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Yes, 72" X 60" seems short for a ground cloth. Also, I think polycro comes in different thicknesses so make sure to get something appropriate. I've been using this stuff, .7 mil and 120" X 84" allows me to cut it into 2 1P groundsheets.

u/losfew · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

I used this: http://www.amazon.com/Duck-282450-Indoor-84-Inch-120-Inch/dp/B000NHW2Z6/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1465264256&sr=1-2&keywords=Sliding+glass+door+insulator+kit

It's twice as thick, still crazy light, more area and so far pretty tough. I ToughTaped the edges and ridge line, threw some nylon grommets in for tie outs and have had no troubles, granted for only 6 or so nights out. I pitched mine in the yard for two weeks before use and it got all manner of stormy spring weather thrown at it with no damage. I was (am) planning to make a silpoly version but haven't felt the need yet. That said I'm no thru-hiker, and if weather forecasts look too hairy I just reschedule.

u/honorious · 2 pointsr/Ultralight
u/ilreppans · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

I'm a motorcyclist - and that's one of the things that drove me toward the ultracompact side of ultralight. I'd suggest 1.5mil Polycryo footprint which is double the thickness of usual 0.75mil stuff, and a NeoAir ground pad inflated with the trash bag method which I find quick and easy (and use a much smaller/lighter trash bag than the video).

u/vietdemocracy · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If you have old thin windows check into something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-Indoor-5-Window--210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0/

u/skippingstone · 2 pointsr/DIY

Air seal your windows

Frost King B2 Mortite Caulking Cord 19-ounce 90-Foot Long, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l01WBbJ6PPGSZ

Duck Brand Indoor 5-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 210-Inch, 281504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHY1P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L01WBbTRWFW1E

u/SaguaroJizzpants · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

So the issue wasn't that the tape that held the two halves together came apart, but rather the tie-out tabs that were stuck to seaming tape came off. It was actually made of one big sheet but the dimension of the polycro were strange such that to make a ~8x10ish tarp you had to cut and rotate the halves. I think it might have come out to 8.25 x 10.5 in the end, and the sheet was like 5.5 x 17 feet long.

In the end it ended up being a great shelter, just not one that I wanted to worry on any more.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHY1P0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/haberdasher42 · 2 pointsr/ontario

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NHY1P0?pc_redir=1413694114&robot_redir=1

You can get it at Home Depot, Crappy Tire, etc. The tape won't remove paint, and you use a hair dryer to tighten the plastic sheeting, think shrink wrap. If you don't particularly care for the light, I've also stuck some Styrofoam sheeting (also available at the depot) in before using this over top.

I lived in a poorly built farm house a while back. It had an electric furnace and an air exchanger, not to mention a fireplace. That was a trifecta of useless heating options, our hydro was running around $700/m and we couldn't bring the house above 60 on a nice day. There was a long chat with the landlord, that he didn't like.

Unless your place is old, like pre-50's it's probably a window and door draft problem and not a general wall insulation problem. Though if it's a house the attic insulation may benefit from a top up. (Don't get involved in that, it's at minimum incredibly unpleasant and at most a way to learn about asbestos.)

u/Ant-honey · 2 pointsr/hiking

Fashion a Reflectix liner for your backpack. Freeze whatever you can before leaving. https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP24025-24-Inch-25-Feet-Insulation/dp/B0022NH3E4

You can buy at several locations, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Also, by the foot at https://dutchwaregear.com/reflectix.html

u/kingxs · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You could try some weatherstrip seal?

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Brand-284426-Adhesive-Weatherstrip/dp/B0025KUSX2

Or you could try some great stuff foam, it has a "straw", might be able to angle in space?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YW0W0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

u/Saltystew · 2 pointsr/headphones

The earpads you mean? No, they're not bumby.

I used some cork sheets I got from michaels craft store and a self-adheisve weathering strips from amazon.

u/JarodFogle · 2 pointsr/teslamotors
u/nept_r · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Anyone here wanna share some links or info on the material they use? I have used ducks brand window insulation that seemed alright, but I'd like to get some other input. I think I used this. Made a large tarp tent using a very basic rectangular shape. I left it out in the sun to preshrink it so it wouldn't shrink out in the field.

u/xrobin · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Here you go

Edit: just changed the link since the 10 window is twice as much and a buck cheaper

u/MacDaddyT · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

I believe this is the wrap he is referring to. Is that the one that is 40$ for you?

Polycro is objectively more fragile than Tyvek. It It really a matter of opinion regarding its weight-to-function ratio.
Pros:

  • MUCH lighter

  • More packable

  • Cheap (maybe not quite as cheap as Tyvek)

  • Easily resizable

    Cons:

  • So light that the wind bitch-slaps it around

  • More fragile, but will/can last a thru hike with care

  • Slightly less available than Tyvek.


    I used Tyvek for the PCT because it was more reliable to continuously cowboy camp on. It kept my Xlite from ever popping, but that's not to say that polycro would have done the same!

    YMMV
u/riverine17 · 2 pointsr/Michigan

It comes in a kit and it's not expensive.

Along the same lines as this, get something to block the bottom of the doors leading outside, there can be a pretty decent draft underneath that can be eliminated. Ceiling fans too, if you've got them, make sure they are reversed.

Edit: Here's a guide to how they should rotate..

>During winter heating, to help move warm air that is trapped on the ceiling, blades should turn 'forward' in a clockwise motion. This movement will push up the air and pull the warm trapped air down the sides of the room improving heat distribution.

>During hot summer weather, to help produce a comfortable breeze or 'windchill' that cools the skin, blades should rotate in a 'reverse' counter-clockwise motion. The air movement has the same comfortable effect as when you fan yourself with a magazine to get relief from hot, stifling air.


u/imnotminkus · 2 pointsr/Frugal

Duck Brand is $1 less for twice the plastic.

u/DistractedToast · 2 pointsr/Ultralight
  • ($160) MLD Monk Tarp in DCF + ground sheet (assuming you use trekking poles, and assuming on your duo trips your partner has their own shelter
  • ($410) Katabatic Palisade
  • ($160 when in stock) Gossamer Gear Kumo

    These are my suggestions. This is an awesome setup and will save you some change for other gear when you realize that you need it!

    Could dump more money into a larger tarp or other shelter if you need to provide shelter for you and a partner.
u/midnitewarrior · 2 pointsr/Frugal

You need to understand why your windows are drafty.

There's typically 3 reasons --

  • Air leaks - the window is not air tight

    The first is the one you are probably aware of, if the windows have unfilled cracks, don't close tightly, then you are going to have air blowing in on you. You need to make the window air-tight for this problem. This is fixed with weather stripping and better fitting windows. As you are in an apartment, you can't fix the windows, but consider weather stripping. Alternatively, you can put heat-reactive shrink wrap over your entire window frame. Attach the film as tightly as you can so it floats above the glass, then use a hair dryer to make it shrink.

  • Heat loss through window - uninsulated glass

    For this, put your hand about an inch away from the glass. If your hand gets cold, your window is poorly insulated. If you don't care about looks, and your apartment complex doesn't care about looks, and you don't need light in that window, get some EPS foam boards (Expanded Polystyrene - "styrofoam"). Find some of this scrap from big box stores or elsewhere, it's often used as a packing material. You can buy it too, but it may not be cheap. A half-inch of the stuff would be great, cut it to the size of the window. EPS makes a great insulator. Alternatively, bubble wrap, probably cheaper and lets light in.

  • Convective currents

    This is something you may not be aware of. Cold air sinks. Hot air floats. Imagine an empty room that has one window in it. Unimpeded, the hot air in the room will rise to the top. The air near the window will get cooled by the window, and sink to the bottom of the room. This creates a circular air current from above the window to the floor, across the bottom of the room, getting heated by the ambient heat of the room, then rising to the top again. This can make a mini-vortex that cools the room quickly and creates a draft. Older homes would combat this with drapes and radiators directly below the windows. The heat of the radiator would counter the convective current. This is also why your window has a sill. Drapes can stop the convective current effect. While drapes may not be very insulating, they block the flow of air and kill the convective current. A similar effect can be done with the heat-reactive shrink wrap.

u/Tragic_fall · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

I just want to point out that if a space heater overloads the electrical circuit, any electrical heat source would do the same. An electric blanket alone probably wouldn't, but I see people listing a bunch of warm things, which would trip the breaker if all used together to replace a space heater.

Your best option is to keep as much heat as possible from leaving the room, and work on heating the smallest area possible (your bed, most likely). The more you can confine the heat, the less you will actually need to generate.

Seal up all the drafts, and insulate. Drafy buildings in New England often use window film to create an air barrier, and it makes a big difference. Heavy curtains are popular as well.

I like my bedroom cold when I sleep, so I don't turn the heat on. I have two blankets and a thick down comforter, and it is amazing. I would try combining some window film, heavy curtains, electric blanket, and big heavy down comforter, and see how you like that.

u/LifeIsTheFuture · 2 pointsr/TrollXChromosomes

These things work really well and are available at most hardware stores. All you need is a hair dryer.

u/cahutchins · 2 pointsr/needadvice

That first picture is an electric baseboard heater, so yes using it would come out of your electric bill. Some baseboard heaters just have a manual on/off switch or knob somewhere, others are controlled by thermostat.

A lot of cold-climate houses have baseboard heaters in addition to forced air or radiant heat, but it's possible that the baseboard is your only source of heat.

Do you see any vents in the apartment like this, in the floors or walls? If so, that means there's a gas furnace somewhere, probably in the basement, pumping hot air through the house. A studio apartment might not have its own thermostat, the temperature would be controlled somewhere else in the building.

That tank in your second and third pictures is a hot water heater, for your shower and sink and washing machine. I can't tell for sure if it's gas or electric. If it's gas, it would have an exhaust vent on top. If it's electric, it would only have a water-in, water-out, and a wall plug.

You can improve your energy efficiency quite a bit by putting plastic on your windows, something like this will make a big difference in the winter.

u/mandyvigilante · 2 pointsr/Frugal

I'm in a similar situation. Here's some of the stuff I'm doing:

I just bought a bunch of these - shrink film window insulators. I'm in a new apartment this winter and I'm in a colder climate than I'm used to, so hopefully they'll work. My brother uses them and he says they work really well. It makes sense that they would, since air is a great insulator. And buy insulating (or at least very thick) curtains. During the day when the sun is out, keep them open to get warmth in (on windows that are facing the sun), but at night shut them to keep out the cold.

Other than that, try to find out where in your house the warm air is escaping. I found out that my back door had about an inch-wide crack along the top that I stuffed with brown packing paper, which helped a lot. If there are any rooms you don't use that often, close them off as best as you can - seal off the window, shut the door and put a door runner along the bottom to keep all the cold air out and the warm air in. You want to be trying to heat as small of an area as possible.

You can also try to replicate a Japanese kotatsu if you have a low table and a heater that is low to the ground. I have a low coffee table I sit at, and I'm planning on getting a large blanket to imitate the general idea of a kotatsu with. The heater I use for my living room blows hot air out low to the ground, and a lot of it ends up under the coffee table anyway. I can sit at the table and keep my legs warm.

Also, as weird and lame as they are, I recommend a slanket. I know people make fun, but they're not at all the same as just having a bathrobe on backwards - they're much longer, much thicker, and they have hoods and pockets for your feet. You could try to make one but I don't think that would end up being more frugal, because the fabric would be expensive. The one I have is a godsend, especially since I do a lot of work from home and it keeps me warm while I'm on my computer.

Finally, drink a lot of warm drinks. Always have a hot cup of coffee or tea in your hand. It will warm up your hands and your body. I think that the logic behind the "warm drinks actually make you colder" thing is that they make you sweat, but if you're cold enough that you aren't sweating at all from drinking them, you're retaining most of the heat. And get enough food! Your body burns calories to keep you warm, so this is not the time to restrict yourself.

u/kryptobs2000 · 2 pointsr/Frugal

This is what you want. This is probably what everyone should use. Maybe painters tape would work better, though I suspect it will fail soon enough too, but I tried using painters plastic drop cloth and duct tape, lots of it, and it started to peal off in about a week.

I'd personally prefer the dropcloth as it's slightly cheaper (~5$ for probably 15-20 windows, plus the cost of tape) and more importantly I like that it's translucent as opposed to transparent. The kit I linked essentially looks like nothing is there at all if done right, you definitely won't have a problem with light.

u/BerryBerrySneaky · 2 pointsr/wichita

It would also be worth your while to find and fix the drafts you mentioned, inexpensively and without any permanent modifications to the property.
Outlet/switch insulators are cheap, easy to install, and effective.

If you feel cold air from the gaps between the wall and your window/door trim, stuff backer rod in the gaps. (It's similar to rolls of self-stick foam watherstripping, but doesn't have the "sticky". You can also cut it in half/quarter for smaller gaps.)

If the windows are drafty, install heat-shrink film kits on any you won't need to open (or adjust blinds on) over the winter. For windows you may need to open or that have thick blinds, use butyl "cord" weatherstripping. Squish it into the edges/corners of window frames/panes/etc. It's removable and is available in multiple colors.

(Source: I live in a 100+ year old house, with zero wall insulation and drafty original windows.)

u/Sands43 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yes to the rockwool.

A sound room design is a lot like a high end home theater design. Look on those web sites for info and tips. You can also find DIY recording room designs out there.

There is another product out there called Homosote. It is a pressed cellulose fiber board. Dense and has good vibration absorption. It is designed to go between sheet rock and a stud wall/ceiling.

Having been involved with commercial anechoic chamber design and use, your best bet is to build a "room within a room". So basically a sub room that does not physically touch the rafters above. If the rafters are somewhat clear of water/drain/electrical stuff you can nest the new ceiling joists into the existing floor joists. At least 2x6s or 2x8s if the span is long. Then homosote / sheetrock / quietrock to the new "room".

Pay very careful attention to the joints and gaps. Seal them up with caulk or expanding foam in a can.

Use a garage service / fire door as it will have built in weather stripping to seal in noise. Put it at an odd fraction of the wall dimension. So not right in the middle. Put it at 1/3rd or 1/5th from the end of a wall.

The room dimensions need to be carefully considered. A square room will have really odd echos in it. There are calculators out there that will do the math for you, but you basically need each room dimension to be off by a factor of 1.4 (or square root of 2) Give or take. If you can't make it x1.4 off, then at least make them odd number dimensions and not the same. I don't care how much wall treatment you put up, it won't fix a room with a nasty reverb in it. Bigger is better as well. You will put a lot of sound energy into the room. Better dissipated in a bigger room, than a small one. Basically need to avoid even harmonics due to room dimensions.

> Not:
8' - ceiling, 8' - width, 8' - length

> More like this:
8' - ceiling, 11.5' - width, 9' - length

For wall treatments, the simple solution is to buy rigid fiberglass insulation panels. They are sold in 2x4 panels. Cover them with muslin and back them with 2x4 plywood and hang on the wall.

These things:
https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

For HVAC, use flex ducts and ensure that the holes into the house's existing ducts are not straight. You want the ducts to go around corners. If you want to go nuts, you can make the ducts out the rigid fiber boards.

The last thing, Don't muck it up. Sooner or later, you will sell the house. Make it look "normal" so it can be converted to a storage room or something.

u/nandemo · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Take a look at this post. OP used this.

u/BbqLurker · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

Cheapest way I've found to treat your space. Wrap these in cloth from your local fabric store. Pin to walls with long T pins. Cheep cheep. They actually link burlap cloth for sale for very cheap as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

u/DeadDillo · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

For what it's worth, none of these booths are 100% sound PROOF.

Whisper Room was at VO Atlanta last year and had one of their 4 x 6 booths set up in the vendor room. With the door closed, I could still very clearly hear everyone outside the room. Yes, the sound was reduced dramatically, but I could still hear it clearly.

Short of building an anechoic chamber, You are NEVER going to have a room completely isolated from the outside world. You have to come up with a level of noise you can or cant afford to be acceptable with.

Unless you are doing audiobooks with a lot of long empty silences between paragraphs or lines of dialog, you are probably not going to need a whisper room.

There are two different things to consider: outside sound and inside sound.

The biggest problem with voiceover audio is inside sounds. The sounds created inside the room and bounce around the hard walls, ceilings and floors. This is the easiest thing to deal with and there are a number of things that you can use to absorb these reflections and reduce the echo. Things like acoustic foam or OC703 panels.

If the room is already acoustically treated, you could probably buy pre-built panels if you are just trying to remove some troublesome reflections. And if you want a specific room to work in, you might want to try a loose-walled curtain style booth like what Vocal Booth 2 Go has.

As for outside sound...if you live on a busy street, there's not much you can do about it. You could spend tens of thousands of dollars to completely acoustically treat your environment and youll still hear the Subaru with the coffee can-sized muffler when it drives by.

u/SureIllrecordthat · 2 pointsr/microphones

Depending on what type of space you need to treat, I strongly prefer OC703. It's great to work with (wear a dust mask!) because it's rigid, easy to cut, and light enough to hang on a wall without glue.

You can make panels with it. I have them in my makeshift "control room".

And, I've also heavily treated my voiceover booth with it.

u/Tippytom · 2 pointsr/fixit

you could use this strip just mount it with some short Tek screws

u/nthcxd · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I did the same but with mars lights and I also was able to fit an 8’’ fan (exhaust port on the right wall).

The way I dealt with light leaks is buying one of those weatherstrips for doors. I bought a few, cut to size, and fit them along all four sides of the front doors.

Something like: AM Conservation Group, Inc. KC600W-84 Simply Conserve White 84-Inch Door Weatherstrip Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BR9TBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aiK1Bb0Q6SQTB

I don’t think light leaks would particularly affect yield. I just wasn’t happy with the leak itself. I also had all inside surface covered in reflective material (did so before assembling them). I used

VANTAKOOL Digital PH Meter 0.01 Resolution Pocket Size Water, 100' Feet, meter-22 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013RZUO78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ilK1BbHAHMG21

And one of those spray adhesives for that job, which made it very easy.

Good luck!

u/kabochia · 2 pointsr/ultrarunning

I made an insulation sleeve for my back bladder out of that silvery bubble wrap stuff. I got mine free with a grocery delivery, but you can get it at certain stores and here on Amazon For smaller bottles, just cut it down to size and use heavy duty packing tape to stick it together. Don't know if your bottles will still fit in your vest with that around it though.

What also helps is freezing the entire bottle the night before. I have some insulated Nathan handhelds and if I freeze them beforehand they stay pretty cool for a couple hours.

u/lurk_city_usa · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I use plastic fermenters which are have much worse heat conduction than glass but I'll give my two cents. I use a rectangle (about 6"x4") of pink foam insulation with a little slot chiseled out to about half the length that fits the temp probe. I just tape this tightly to the side of the fermenter and slot the temp probe into it (I use the same ITC-308 temp controller). However, what I did to test the efficacy was measure the temperature each time I took a sample for gravity readings. Since I found that the temp was within a couple tenths of a degree of the reading, I found that this was fine. Whichever way you choose to measure it, I recommend testing the internal temp that way until you dial it in.

Edit: The ITC-308 works great btw, I use it on my fermentation chamber (converted chest freezer) and keezer and have never had a problem whenever I've measured the direct temp vs the reading of the probe.

Edit 2: Also forgot to say but I use this $22 heating belt taped to my fermenter (or two fermenters which I've done twice and had equal success with). I ferment in a chest freezer so it has cooling capability but as long as your ambient temp is less than your fermentation temp you're fine using a heat source to regulate. The other thing I did when I wanted to keep the temp higher (85-95 F) for Kveik yeast and kettle sours is I wrapped the fermenter and heating belt setup with this reflectix insulation with a 1" air gap and cut to the proper size which worked perfectly (did the same thing for my full volume biab mash tun and kettle).

u/BaggedTaco · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

To buy some time on the windows, you can try using this. Most people equate this with heating in the winter but it will also help with drafty windows in the summer.

I didn't think to mention sunlight, are the rooms getting a lot of direct sun? Heavy window shades will help with that if that is an issue.

u/PippyLongSausage · 1 pointr/HVAC

In that case I think you're going to be paying some big bills in the winter time. I would look at sealing up openings, and keep the thermostat low. Wear jackets indoors and get a nice warm blanket :)

We've used this stuff over our drafty windows and saved quite a bit on our power bill.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

u/JimmyTheFace · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Hmmmm... link still works for me, but basically it is shrink wrap for windows (here is the product on Amazon). You place the plastic over the window, then use a hair dryer to seal it around the edges

u/AUfan82 · 1 pointr/boston

I moved up from the south 2 years ago and had the same questions for /r/boston


In typical fashion.......they did the same thing they are doing to you. Laughing, and being dicks instead of trying to help.

My place was old, the heaters were not working, and their were leaking windows everywhere. I bought this

Caulking Cord

and

window kit

and

Heater

I very legally could have gone to the housing authority and reported my landlord for the lack of adequate heating (and broken radiators) but decided that this stuff worked just fine. First winter I couldn't get the house above 62, and some rooms I am sure were much colder. The electric and gas bill was insane.

Second year we just don't even bother using the radiators at all, we use the space heater, a heating blanket, and sealed all the windows and doors (balcony) with that caulk. The house was still cold, but we were warm. This seems to be a common tactic up here, heat yourself not the house.

I also looked into buying one of these bed heater, but I don't want to sweat in the middle of the night and the bedroom is pretty easy to heat with that space heater.

Good luck. Also, most people up here can be dicks when it comes to heating/cold complaints. Just sit back and laugh at what these people call a severe thunderstorm, most of them would shit their pants if they ever experienced a regular summer storm in the south.

u/IfWishezWereFishez · 1 pointr/personalfinance

I would get blackout curtains, at least for windows that get a lot of sun during the day. They'll keep your apartment cooler.

In the winter there are window insulation kits - something like this though I picked that at random as an example, shop around to find good prices and good reviews. They'll help keep your apartment warm in the winter.

u/RygorMortis · 1 pointr/Ultralight

In addition to all this, you could drop the Tyvek and use a polycro sheet as a ground cloth which will save you 2oz at $4/oz.

Also your tights are pretty heavy. Unless you sleep really cold you can get a [lighter pair] (https://www.amazon.com/TM-P33-BBZ-X-Large-Tesla-Wintergear-Compression-Baselayer/dp/B01LWSPKSI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492774941&sr=8-4&keywords=tesla+tights). Mine weigh 4oz for size small. That saves you 3oz at $5/oz.

u/rioht · 1 pointr/AskNYC

Yup. Truth, common here that in NYC renters buy their own ac units.

We've got maybe another month of cool weather ahead of us, but you should highly consider putting up some insulation. These are for windows but same principle would work here: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458664828&sr=8-2&keywords=plastic+insulation

Pretty easy to put up and can have a pretty large effect on the amount of heat you're losing.

u/spongue · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Do you mean this kind of thing? https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

My concern is that it wouldn't be very durable, and that it might get dirty / warp the view somehow.

u/firstlastbest · 1 pointr/OntarioLandlord

I'd offer to pay for it myself as it's not expensive and may keep them from escalating. Here is an example: 3M 2141W-6 Indoor Window Insulator Kit, Five Pack (3' X 5') https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00002NCJI/

u/ArcadiaRhodes · 1 pointr/AmateurRoomPorn
u/I_Cant_Math · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

The best things to keep you warm are probably:

A down comforter (real feathers, not alternative).

Space heater (this one happens to be kid safe).

And a window insulator kit.

Brace yourself, winter is coming.

u/BevansDesign · 1 pointr/SomebodyMakeThis

Just get an electric heating pad and strap it to your chest or back or something. They only cost about £13 (I hope I converted that right - $20 US).

And/or, get a window insulation kit. They're just sheets of plastic and double-sided tape, and they keep draughts out and warm air in. And there are other things you can do to insulate your place. Or if there's nothing more you can do, you've gotta complain about it to someone who can fix it.

Don't treat the symptoms, treat the disease!

u/hineybush · 1 pointr/Pitt

for the windows, I recommend this: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI you can find similar ones at Home Depot or Lowes.

u/darwinopterus · 1 pointr/TrollXChromosomes

Something else that worked for me was sealing up my window with these. You stick the film on with tape and then shrink it with a hair dryer. Even if you aren't able to put the film up over that particular hole, putting it over the windows will help quite a bit.

u/baumga34 · 1 pointr/personalfinance

Here's a tip from Wisconsin, USA (-20C during winter). Tape a big sheet of plastic over the window frame. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI
If you do it right, you won't be able to see the plastic and your place will stay warm with less energy use. Or just get better windows.

u/thompsonde · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

If it's a cold draft actually coming through the window, I would just use some window wrap like this stuff from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

​

If it's radiated cold air just penetrating through the window pain, I would move the plant further away from the window.

u/SeedsOfDoubt · 1 pointr/exmormon

Buy them a pack of these and some duct tape. The double sided tape that comes with it sucks, but you can get a good seal with duct tape.

I would hope they have a pair of scissors and a hair dryer in their apt. Make sure they know not to cook the plastic too much or they will just burn a hole in it and ruin the air bubble.

Edit: Also, tell them to put it on the interior wall frame and not the metal of the window frame. there needs to be a good pocket of air in between the glass and the plastic.

If TSCC won't pony up with the landlords number make them pay for the damage the duct tape will eventually do to the paint.

u/frenchiebuilder · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

That's just moist air from inside, condensing against the cold glass. It might be a sign that the seal's broken between the panes of glass (if they're double-pane argon windows or the like); or it might just be that your interior humidity's too high; or it might just be that it's way too f'ing cold where you live.

Regardless of the cause, you can either:

  • lower the indoor humidity level,
  • run a fan, pointed at the window, so it evaporates as fast as it condenses, or
  • insulate your windows with that see-through shrink plastic stuff.
u/biffysmalls · 1 pointr/Frugal

I won't pass on any tips that are useful to me up here in Northern Alberta, but I was born and raised in Southern Ontario, with winters significantly milder than Northern Ohio and Western New York because of the lake effect.

In short, no matter the age of the windows, this stuff will significantly lower your energy consumption: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Insulator-Kit-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Where I last lived in the Hamilton, Ontario area, we did the bedroom windows the first year and it went down 10%. The next year we did the bedroom and kitchen and it went down 20%. The last year in that house we did all of the windows including the basement and it went down 45% from year 1.

The kit I linked to is just an example though. There are other, cheaper brands which can do about as good a job for less. It'll take you about an afternoon to do a house your size probably, and about $100-150 in material every year, but it's pretty worth it.

The funny part is that where I live now, this would likely lead to cracked windows or at least trapped moisture because the difference between outside temps and inside can be as much as +/- 70C/158F

u/PM_ME_UR_PLANTS · 1 pointr/succulents

These types of things pay for themselves pretty quickly in heating costs and let you keep your plants near the windows. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

They are really handy in old or lower quality structures that use single pane windows.

u/Sybertron · 1 pointr/pittsburgh

On the fashion side include a set of boots for city streets with slush traps. The slush sits on top and looks like solid snow, but really you have a 2-3 foot ditch that's filled with disgusting ice cold filthy water.

I like some long underwear as well for the holy shit cold days that come eventually.

Depending on your house you may look at a roof rake so that a large snowstorm does not cause serious damage.

If you have cold spots in your house, use a fan to guide central heat there. Also I HIGHLY recommend these window insulation kits, they will save you hundreds of dollars on heating and usually allow rooms to get hotter as well.

u/nycsportster · 1 pointr/DIY


An item like this may help slightly
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002NCJI?pc_redir=1397404152&robot_redir=1

Also make sure the storm windows are shut if the flat has them. As someone else mentioned electric space heaters for the most commonly used rooms while your in them, dress warm and keep the heat low. It's not worth the time effort money to insulate if your renting. If there are fans in the space, some have a reverse option which will pull the heated air down circulating the warmer air.

u/disdatthrowaway2 · 1 pointr/Frugal

It's special film and it's very cheap at your home improvement store. It comes in a kit with tape and you stretch it with your hair dryer. It works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002NCJI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1

u/sotodefonk · 1 pointr/hometheater

If pionner dont have them i dont know either, but I think you can easily adjust something for that, its not like you need to move the speaker constantly.

Something like:

  • velcro

  • rubber feet and make an ark with a cutter
  • wood blocks sanded to make an arc + velcro on top to stop vibrations
  • foam blocks
  • original speaker foam pads
  • Foam door sealers trips

    I can think of several of thing you can put on the speaker to adjust it, it just depends on how you want it to look.

    The cheapest would be a sheet of foam, you probably have some laying around from packages, cut it with a cutter to your desired size and just put your speaker on top, the foam will keep it in place.
u/figgypie · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Well right now I'm running a bit bare (actually on a smoking hiatus until I cement this job I'm hankering after) but right now I have a draft guard under my door (here's an example).
Otherwise for the longest time at my old place I also used (and plan on reinstalling before the winter) some weather stripping around the door too (like this) that is just great at keeping cold air out and skunky smoke in.

A really cheap and honestly practical solution, and it'll help keep bugs and cold air out of your home. Win-win.

u/Grokmoo · 1 pointr/DIY

One thing that can help with doors and some windows is weatherstripping (if yours is old or missing). It goes all around the edges of a door jamb and is compressed when the door is closed, forming a (nearly) air tight seal.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-16-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=lp_495372_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815640&sr=1-1

You may need a different size than that.

u/elwood78 · 1 pointr/AskReddit

I looked online. I know my housemate used it on one of our windows back at my old apartment. Might have been something like this.

u/Coomb · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Use this tape to seal any window/door cracks.

u/andrewkhunn · 1 pointr/cigars

What about some weatherstripping? Something like this:

3M Interior Transparent Weather Sealing Tape

u/ZeTeslaCat · 1 pointr/RBNLifeSkills

First thought that comes to mind: Weather stripping. Cheap, not bulky, and usually works relatively well. It won't completely fix it, but it will sure make it a lot warmer.

u/AmorphousForm · 1 pointr/Ultralight

This is also poly-cryo. I use a home made thing like the S2S nano in summer.

If you need a bivy for winter, then something like the Zpacks splash bivy looks nice, or the MLD super-light. It is a pretty big tarp, for only one person you may not need a bivy, especially if you use a full sleeping bag. I plan to build one out of Cuben and Argon 67 for our winter, but it isn't cold yet in Aus.

u/Mcro1986 · 1 pointr/HVAC
u/bI1tz · 1 pointr/Ultralight

The materials I used are

  • 84 x 110in shrink wrap(7x9ft)
  • weatherproof tape, the one linked isn't the stickiest, but does the job
  • that's it!

    You need to tape over all the edges and add tieout points.

    For the tieout points, you want to reinforce the area you're gonna attach the tieouts to, then get a 8" length of tape, fold it over on the long side so you get a strip, then one end on each side, tape each side until only ~1" is sticking out. Holds 20 pounds on each tieout fine.

    Taping will require an hour or so.
u/BobTheTaco21 · 1 pointr/Ultralight

Hardware store is your best bet. If you don't live near one I just got this one on amazon which can be cut into two 7' x 4.5' groundsheets. It's .7mm and there's also reviews of it being used as a groundsheet

u/theslothening · 1 pointr/GoRVing

Lots of people put Reflectix in their windows in warm areas. It will unfortunately block out all the sunlight but it will help greatly in making the interior temperature tolerable.

u/froryrory · 1 pointr/Hydroponics
u/pterryfolds · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

I used this for mine, 2x large totes stacked like your cans.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the bottom stick up about an inch past the lip so it covers the seam when the bins are closed. Its still low enough that i can let it close with out it pinching the reflective wrap. You get a lot of material for only $25, ive done 2x buckets and still have extra left over. Also if you use a roll like mine cut it against the grain, it will push out and basically hold it self together, where i needed it i used duct tape folded sticky side out or just double sided tape.

Hope this helps, otherwise great build! i want to do a large can build like this for a mama, but if i get the space im going to tent it.


Edit: By against the grain i mean perpendicular to how its rolled, lol

u/WickedBaked · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to line the inside of my 32gallon setup. It's kind of pricey but IMO worth it. I originally tried Mylar blankets and they are a nightmare to work with. This stuff is thick and easy to work with and claims 95%+ reflectivity.

u/zofoandrew · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

This stuff works really well for this purpose. I also use it to get 7.5 gallons to a rolling boil on my stovetop. Probably not useful for you as you're planning on using it in the next few days, but maybe will help someone else

u/ihate_heckin_ketchup · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

Depends on your light. If you can't put your hand on it for 3 seconds or so, it's too hot to be real close to a mylar blanket. This is better. Reflectix ST16025 Staple Tab Insulation 16 Inch x 25 ft Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RYFjzbYX2ARWY

u/Miguelito624 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

You may want to look it into some bubble wrap insulation for your res as well. It works miracles for keeping water temps down. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1491534817806

u/whatcantyoudo · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
u/senorroboto · 1 pointr/buildapc

Your CPU will generally just downclock if it is getting too hot, but that's only if it's reaching over 90 C. I can't imagine it's very pleasant having the PC heat up a 40 C room even more.

Is there a window on the west facing side? I've heard that installing heat-reflecting window film can really help and doesn't cost much. They have different tints so you can still let light through or mirror coat, etc.

Idk if the term is different in Aus but here's the brand I see sold in the US: https://www.amazon.com.au/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG/

u/LarsAlereon · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Those windows may be old enough not to have a coating at all. I'd suggest applying some heat control window film to the inside of the glass, which will reflect both UV and infrared light, as well as a portion of the visible light to reduce glare. Gila Platinum is a great option, they also have it in a non-adhesive peel-and-stick version, though it's harder to install.

Check if they truly are single-pane by holding up your phone's flashlight or other bright point of light and seeing how many reflections appear in the window. If it looks like a mirror it's a single-pane, if you see two reflections it's double-pane. If it's a single-pane window it is definitely worth replacing with a good double-pane window. If it's already double-pane then it probably isn't worth replacing unless it has a metal frame, just use window film and try to seal up any air leaks.

u/damien6 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Thank you for this write-up.

This is the Gila film that I installed on my window. I'm not sure how that compares to the titanium, but I may look into upgrading to the titanium film if the difference is dramatic enough. I'm assuming this film is safe for my patio door?

I'll definitely look into thermal curtains. I've thought about doing something like this, essentially trying to keep the heat trapped in the area between my curtains and the door or putting something in the space my patio door sits to try to insulate that area better.

Unfortunately my AC unit is virtually new... I just had it installed less than two years ago. I'm curious what the seasonal efficiency rating is... I do know that he made some adjustments to what I previously had to account for the fact that I'm on the third floor and my unit gets a lot of sun exposure.

I'll have to look into an evaporative cooler. My place is pretty small, so it doesn't take much to cool it. If it weren't for the fact that I lived on the third floor and my unit baked like an oven during the hottest days of the summer, my power bill during the summer would be negligible because it would take so little to cool it. If I could put one of those units in the room at night for sleeping that may be worth it.

Thanks again for this write-up. It gives me a lot of ideas to look into.

u/_NEW_HORIZONS_ · 1 pointr/Ultralight

Amazon or any hardware store where it gets cold. They sell it as window insulation.
Duck Brand Indoor Extra Large Window/Patio Door Shrink Film Kit, 84-Inch x 120-Inch, 282450 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHW2Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g1grDbJX90TN1

u/demn2 · 1 pointr/Ultralight

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000NHW2Z6/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

The duck kits are $3.17 on amazon like new as an add-on, and $3.52 free pickup at a Walmart near you. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Duck-Brand-Shrink-Film-Window-Kit-for-Extra-Large-Windows-or-Patio-Doors/15077940 Can make 3 40x84" from those.

oops. silly me :p didn't mean to imply that uk citizens could get these, just wanted to compare prices/give links for people in USA. for someone who is ok with a 6 foot length, UK has $2 kits: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulation-Heating-Draught-Excluder-Shopmonk/dp/B00NVI3DV6/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1504637204&sr=1-2&keywords=window+insulation+kit

u/engshien · 1 pointr/Ultralight

I'd go with 1.5mil PolyCro instead of 0.7mil most people use. It is, of course, twice the weight of the thinner PolyCro but still half of the weight of tyvek. At $3 a sheet (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NHW2Z6/), you can make at least two (and possible up to 4 depending on the width you need). Just replace periodically.

u/Ziploc_2017 · 1 pointr/Ultralight
u/DeputySean · 1 pointr/Ultralight

I just bought this one, which is advertised as 1.5 mil, but received the 0.7 mil instead. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NHW2Z6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

u/bigboij · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

hit the windows with some heat shrink film
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-Indoor-5-Window-210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0

stick on foam weather strip for doors

and just seal the bathroom vent with plastic and tape for the winter if it is that big of a problem for heat loss

u/33445delray · 1 pointr/HVAC

You can put up plastic film made just for drafty windows.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-5-Window-62-Inch-210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0

You can easily let a large pot of water simmer on the range top. Add water as required

u/Hurtzy45 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I know this is a shitpost, but if you used something like this it would look pretty clean. I use it on my windows during winter and once you shrink it tight it almost looks like glass.

u/subconciousness · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

you could use that shrink wrap window insulation and just cover the whole thing up. i used this, for one window it would take about 15m and a hair dryer, easy peasy.

u/postitpad · 1 pointr/boston

the nice thing will be in about 7 months when it's 'this cold' again, it'll be such a relief you'll be out in shorts and driving with the windows down.

get some plastic to shrink around your windows, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281504-Indoor-5-Window-210-Inch/dp/B000NHY1P0

u/ysiii · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If it's airtight, you're good. Otherwise, spend the few bucks and get a kit. They're cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-5-Window-Insulator-210-Inch-281504/dp/B000NHY1P0

u/Shadow703793 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

See: https://www.amazon.com/Duck-5-Window-Insulator-210-Inch-286217/dp/B000NHY1P0

It's basically additional insulation around the windows. This can really help if you're in an older house (or rental) where the windows are old and have air leaks.

u/Unconnect3d · 1 pointr/news

This stuff : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHY1P0/ref=ox_huc_add_on_msg_title_1?m=A3KP23DL7YRSLP

Your local lowes/home depot will have something similar.

u/Evodem · 1 pointr/Ultralight

I'm trying to find some polycro for a ground sheet. Is something like this what I'm looking for? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHY1P0/

u/theBoxy_Butcher · 1 pointr/GoRVing

We bought a roll of this and cut it to size to block out the sun. Put some sticky Velcro on the edge and then press it onto your door. Voilà!

https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP24025-24-Inch-25-Feet-Insulation/dp/B0022NH3E4

u/brulosopher · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

It's called Reflectix* and is super easy to put together. The 25' roll provides more than enough to do a double layer. Cheers!

u/treesforsex2 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

I've always wondered how reflectix would work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022NH3E4

u/Canuck1stan · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I would put this self adhesive weatherstripping everywhere possible. If you think it will rub on the ground outside you could put it on the bottom sill. Won't be pretty but it will seal.

u/KolorOner · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Thanks. Do you have a link to the kit you used? I was looking at this also to save money.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FR5QO6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

u/urbanplowboy · 1 pointr/DIY

Well, 8 lbs is a much larger piece of plexi than I was imagining. Could you use a thinner/lighter piece?

On second thought, though, perhaps just using some window shrink film would work better. It seals air/water tight, can be easily removed and is cheap. Here's an installation video. It would probably look a lot better than plexiglass, too.

u/Imsuem · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

I if you have drafty windows, it might be worth the money to get some window insulation kits. They are plastic that you cut to size to put over your window. First. You out some two-sided tape around the window frame and then you stick the plastic sheet on, then carefully blast it with a handheld dryer (careful not to get too close or you'll melt a hole in the plastic). In the spring when warm weather returns, pull the tape and plastic off. Here's one but there are lots out there..
Duck Brand 281506 Indoor 10-Window Shrink Film Insulator Kit, 62-Inch x 420-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_qW1HybQG6R7HM

u/djshack88 · 1 pointr/boston

It's not cold in Boston, but it will be cold in Boston. You're going to love January and February.

Also, you need to get window plastic. I live in an old Somerville house with old wooden drafty windows. The plastic and the putty/clay are key. See:

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/
http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-B2-Caulking-19-ounce/dp/B000LNODSQ/

u/meat_tunnel · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Yep. I have to use them every year because the windows are ~30 years old with aluminum frames. Get the Duck brand: https://smile.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1510673743&sr=1-1&keywords=window+plastic

Home Depot sells a different brand that's already pre-cut and doesn't really work if you're trying to apply it to large windows.

u/montereyo · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Buy some bubble wrap (the kind with the small bubbles) and cut it to fit your panes of glass; tape it on with the flat side against the glass. Bonus points if you double up with the shrink-wrap plastic like this. If you install the shrinkwrap well and use a hair dryer to seal it, it doesn't look bad at all.

u/xisonc · 1 pointr/cornsnakes

Without knowing your house or how its heated I'm not sure about heating your whole room.

There are ceramic electric space heaters that work pretty good, but can suck back electricity and may not heat the whole room.

It regularly gets as low as -45°C here in the winter, so I know what you mean, but my house has a forced air furnace that keeps the whole house reasonably warm.

Edit: does your room have a window? Maybe try one of these https://www.amazon.com/Duck-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch-281506/dp/B002GKC2GW

u/unkyduck · 1 pointr/howto

That's the stuff. The whole kit is here. The heat-shrink plastic eliminates wrinkles and renders the fix invisible.

u/chizzle91 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Brace yourself.

Because screw drafty windows.

Also, I saw you're in Indiana. Obviously I'm not expecting your home address or anything, but can you say where in Indiana? We're originally from Jeffersonville/New Albany/Clarksville, wondering if it's near there at all.

u/autarky1 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I know everyone here likes to DIY stuff but if you can get an installer in, you can replace those windows with new vinyl ones for <$700 each (at least in my city) and you might get a rebate from your electric company. Those windows look like they're pretty old and single pane.

If thats too much, you can also buy a window insulation kit for $10 to seal up the air gaps. That'll probably be way easier than trying to repair the damage.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494374413&sr=8-1&keywords=window+insulation+kit

u/VapidDelight · 1 pointr/TrollXChromosomes

Get weather strip tape and tape all the gaps on your windows. Then cover the entire windows with window film. This will cut down on drafts and make your apartment warmer.

u/jaminz · 1 pointr/DIY

I have single-paned windows in my apartment, which leads to some pretty heavy condensation during the winter. The condensation then drips down onto the windowsill, and forms a few small puddles.

Any tips on how to alleviate this? I was thinking of buying a dehumidifier and using some window insulation - something like this

Thoughts/advice?

u/juno_vhs · 1 pointr/audioengineering

This advice has been shared with me by people with decades of combined experience, who record sample libraries professionally.

For recording the best/most flexible samples, your goals are:

  • as "dry" as possible.

  • absolutely the lowest noise floor possible.

    When you stack sound effects, the noise stacks with them. It may sound great as a single sample, until you stack 4 or more, then the noise is pretty audible. So you want clean preamps in a quiet space.

    Convolution software these days is flexible enough to let you put any sound in any environment realistically. Try to minimize the sound of the room as much as possible. This stuff is great for building isolation booths, make sure to cover it with felt or something though

    I'd recommend getting a handheld recorder like the Sony D100 (or older D50), the sound quality is great and has an extremely low noise floor. Excellent preamps.

    If you had more of a budget, I'd recommend going with a few Neumann TLM 102 or 103, and a sound devices recorder. That would give you the absolute lowest noise and best sound quality. This is what we use, and have gone through much trial and error.

    TL;DR For your budget, get the Sony D100
u/CallMeFlossy · 1 pointr/woodworking

So, if I were to have a room typically used for recording podcasts, these would make a noticeable improvement on sound quality?

You mentioned fiberglass insulation. Something like Owens Corning 703?

u/A_of · 1 pointr/audioengineering

"Item Weight 2.6 pounds"
And that's why that product doesn't work. Foam is not used in bass traps because of that.
Bass traps in general need a good amount of density to work and the right material. Dense fiberglass is what is commonly used.
Compare that foam product with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

There are plenty of tutorials on how to make a good bass trap out of fiberglass boards. You will get far better results.

u/sl00 · 1 pointr/MusicBattlestations

This is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-703-Fiberglass-Boards/dp/B005V3L834

With a little searching you should be able to get a case for about $100 shipped. You'll need 5 cases to cover 220 square feet.

The downside is that you'll need to cover it with cloth. I've used muslin with good results, anything similar that breathes will do, so see what's on sale at the fabric store. The easiest method I've found for wrapping these is to cut a piece of cloth long enough to fold over and cover both sides of the fiberglass, then sew up the remaining three sides with the fiberglass inside. To finish use upholstery pins to pull the extra cloth around back.

https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-9070-Upholstery-4-Inch-30-Pack/dp/B002LN9TS8

If you have space, you can get better low frequency absorption by placing these panels a few inches away from the wall or ceiling, so hanging them somehow would be ideal.

u/themickeyadolph · 1 pointr/hometheater

Start with Owens Corning 703: https://amzn.com/B005V3L834
Then build a lightweight frame and wrap in a breathable black fabric. Google "DIY Acoustic Panels" and you'll see a ton of options.

u/tehsweetness · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have the same issue and frustrating battle with warped old wooden exterior doors. Still a battle but more adjustable, I've gone with the kind you can adjust/screw in on the exterior side: http://www.amazon.com/Conservation-Group-Inc-KC600W-84-Weatherstrip/dp/B008BR9TBU/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1412828273&sr=8-48&keywords=weather+stripping

u/MuffinRacing · 1 pointr/Autocross

I bought reflective insulation (like this) at homedepot and taped two 25 foot long pieces together. Between runs I just wrap the whole car like so. It's extremely effective as it recycles heat from the brakes and engine into warming up the tires. Too late now, but may have been able to buy some tonight.

u/n0tjbg · 0 pointsr/LifeProTips
u/askredant · 0 pointsr/Ultralight

I got this idea from this sub. Instead of using a tent footprint, tyvek, or buying "polycro" I use window insulation for my ground sheet.

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-281506-10-Window-Insulator-420-Inch/dp/B002GKC2GW?ie=UTF8&keywords=window%20insulation&qid=1463877275&ref_=sr_1_1&s=hi&sr=1-1

u/Petraptor · -1 pointsr/boston

You can get the landlord to help you out, although it might be like pulling teeth. My suspicion is that they'll come in, crank the heat to 80 with your bedroom door open, go into your room, measure the temperature, and tell you to quit whining. Obviously, living without privacy and/or with the rest of your roomies' living in a tropical sauna isn't the best plan.

Some self-help techniques that might solve the problem for now would include (plastic-ing over the windows)[http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI] or getting a space heater for your room.

u/CajunVagabond · -4 pointsr/malelivingspace

It looks cramped and uncomfortable, but has a lot of potential, it just needs to be opened up. A descent cheap ikea sofa bed or turning the bed into a couch while entertaining will free up so much space in that small room. You would be able to add an extra chair and actually have room to have 4 or more people over comfortably. Those white shelves on the floor also unnecessarily take up space. Look at r/tinyhomes, they have a lot of nice space saving ideas.
Also, that window insulation looks really bad, try some other more discrete options.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Interior-Transparent-Weather-1-5-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFF