Best woodworking projects plans & kits according to redditors

It barely loaded for me. Just a bunch of unformated text and no images. Still enough copy the links for you though...

https://www.amazon.com/Tiny-Home-Ultimate-Vacation-Weekend/dp/B0772VGGC9/

https://www.amazon.com/Allwood-Bella-237-Cabin-Loft/dp/B00O3PMNY4/

https://www.amazon.com/Allwood-Timberline-483-SQF-Cabin/dp/B00M8R8GH2/

https://www.amazon.com/Tiny-Home-Ultimate-Vacation-Weekend/dp/B0771NM4R5/

https://www.amazon.com/Allwood-Eagle-Point-1108-Cabin/dp/B00LYGIEU2/

https://www.amazon.com/MODS-40-Foot-Tiny-Home/dp/B073FZ8PP9/

https://www.amazon.com/Goshen-Timber-Frames-The-Osborne/dp/B00J0DVQZ6/

https://www.amazon.com/Allwood-Kit-Cabin-Getaway-cabin/dp/B01NAR617Y/

https://www.amazon.com/Allwood-Ranger-Kit-Cabin-Loft/dp/B072C7D1L3/

https://www.amazon.com/DuraMAX-Flat-Top-Insulated-Building/dp/B010SFKQQY/ (not actually a house)

https://www.amazon.com/Allwood-Kit-Cabin-Lillevilla-Escape/dp/B00O76AL5W/

https://www.amazon.com/Allwood-Garden-House-Kit-Arlanda/dp/B017X5FTYG/

https://www.amazon.com/Romtec-2028ES-Birdwatcher-Prefabricated-Cabin/dp/B01G2C76YM/

https://www.amazon.com/BZBCabins-com-Lakeview-Log-Cabin-Kit/dp/B01H10R91O/

https://www.amazon.com/Weizhengheng-expandable-prefab-module-container/dp/B079C1FKCS/

I somewhat regret commenting that one which isn't a house isn't a fucking house because now I feel like, my lack of comments on the others somehow implies a lack of problem with them. The truth is, I neither know, nor am saying, anything about any of them.

Countour Gage - $18.

Or what looks like this exact one, $9.

Not a dumb question. The answer is:

1. take a picture of this tool fitted to whatever you're shaping: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R3YNXMW/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_WtnPDbCBQYS0F
   
   
2. import as Canvas into Fusion
   
   
3. calibrate the canvas
   
   
4. trace the curves with a spline

They sell things that do this for like 10$ for future reference

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07PYVMQSK/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&th=1

I think the tool you are looking for is a contour gauge like this https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-833-10-Inch-Contour/dp/B000E36098

Something like this would work:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-833-10-Inch-Contour/dp/B000E36098

They're substantially cheaper on amazon

https://smile.amazon.com/AlexBasic-Contour-Duplicator-Profile-Copying/dp/B07PN2XBDQ/

Nice work OP! Any reason you didn't choose an under-mount sink? Also for future weird tile cuts get a profile gauge: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-833-10-Inch-Contour/dp/B000E36098

I have a small woodworking business on etsy and ebay as a side hustle. I buy materials as I need them. This allows me to not have to wait 5 days for free shipping and not have to stock up and store as much stuff that I might not need in the near future. Plus there are no decent woodworking shops within 300 miles of where I live. I can have replacement material delivered to my door in 2 days...

I used to get most of the materials off of ebay, but every seller has different shipping preferences and costs. Amazon and their "2-day free shipping" has made my processes run a lot better. That being said, I really only care about the "2-day free shipping." The other stuff doesn't add value to my life. I would rather just have the option to pay a lower price for the "2 day free shipping" and pay more for other stuff if I wanted to get it later...

here are some examples of things that I typically buy as I am running out...

https://www.amazon.com/Legacy-Woodturning-Goncalo-Tigerwood-Wooden/dp/B078KYYQY3/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=pen+blanks&qid=1555097279&s=gateway&sr=8-11

https://www.amazon.com/Carving-Carvers-Workers-Whittle-Beautiful/dp/B07HL7V2HG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=W75CADHHWTCU&keywords=spoon+carving+blanks&qid=1555097353&s=gateway&sprefix=spoon+carving%2Caps%2C228&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Legacy-Woodturning-Cigar-Choose-Finish/dp/B07DFM6XZ3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=WOV6MXV9DJ92&keywords=pen+kits+for+wood+turning&qid=1555097379&s=gateway&sprefix=pen+kits%2Caps%2C227&sr=8-5

My mistake, the other box is from woodcraft.

Here's a link to their box: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2AF2FO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19VW1BL9ZXZVA

A profile tool like this https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-833-10-Inch-Contour/dp/B000E36098 makes quick work of it. I use 1 for auto body work to match 1 side to the other perfectly. Also great for laying wood floor and matching the molding.

A contour gauge?

Do you think, with a diamond drill bit, an un-powered hand drill would get anywhere? I'm assuming it wouldn't, but if the trick is to go slowly, maybe it would? Hmm...

Dovetail marker

Help me make pretty box edges.

Nothing better than getting unexpected funds back =)

Amazon will sell you houses starting at around $5000 if you already have plumbing and stuff it's not too difficult to hook up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072C7D1L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_IeRhDbZWMAB2N here's one that's a full house for 20k

I actually own the book, and it's slightly thicker companion tome by the same guy, "Understanding Wood." Humorous as the cover and titles are, they're really incredible resources. R. Bruce Hoadley really knows his stuff.

I'm wrapping up my first dovetail box project (which I'll probably post here soon), and after weeks of watching videos, this one from Jay Bates was the best in my opinion.

The Paul Sellers video is also fantastic, but it's nice seeing a mere mortal like Jay Bates explain his thought process - and that's why I like the Jay Bates video.

Now, two important things: buy a good crosscut saw (something like this, even if you think "oh, there's no reason to buy a nice saw if I don't know how to use it". It's $20, not expensive. You will get frustrated with the crappy saw because it's going to come out looking bad no matter how good you are with it. Second, buy a magnetic guide. It makes keeping your lines nice and straight much easier.

I got this one as my first kit. It comes with the blanks, pens, bushings and drill bit. You will also need a pen mandrel kit something like this which includes the barrel trimmer and a mandrel saver.

Exotic Wood Cutoffs

Got it on amazon! Was a total crapshoot, but I got a really good mix of wood and it arrived really fast. I would recommend, I've been able to do a bunch of random projects with one box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2AF2FO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

bought it off amazon

link

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-833-10-Inch-Contour/dp/B000E36098

About 19 bucks and solid measuring.

Here’s a better one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXLJ478/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_619NDbGYA4615

Might be worth posting photos and/or profile outlines in /r/woodworking or something. Some moldings are made up of multiple pieces stacked together. Some are made from a combination of relatively common router bits take in multiple, creatively angled passes. If the trim is very old, it's quite likely that this is how it was made.

> getting accurate measurements off of paint covered trim

Scrape the paint off of a small section? You can use a contour gauge to get a really accurate reading of the curve. Then you just need to measure the thickness. You could probably just find a section with the least erratic paint build up, get the contour, and smooth out any irregularities by eye in your drawing.

I’m not sure how it’s done, but the wood is from this link on Amazon.

Depending on the object size, a contour gauge like this will help you transfer the design accurately to paper.

I think for that application, I'd rather use a contour gauge - this plastic holds it shape generally, but does have some springback after released, so it wouldn't be exactly the contour you were trying to bend it to.

Hello I had a quick question. Would this dovetail market be okay for accurate hand dovetails? Thanks. Dovetail marker

You can still buy them in the UK
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-675032-Double-Pinion-Drill/dp/B000LFXJAC/ref=sr_1_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1419698740&sr=1-3&keywords=hand+drill

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4098HE

They have a 48 item cases and 30 item cases for larger diameter pens and pencils. The actual case is the same dimensions.

Not real high quality, but for display purposes it works great. I then purchased a couple of pieces of 14"x 11" acrylic and cut them down to about 14"x 8" and use them as dust shields over the pencils. I remove them for pictures.

This is the set I got, although if you're outside Australia you might want to get it Here

Buying seconhand is certainly worth a shot if you're looking for a starter plane, although it's always a bit of a gamble. Very satisfying if you can get a rusty old wreck and bring it back to useable condition!

If you would prefer to buy new have a look at this Woodstock set on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4063-Professional-Woodworking-5-Piece/dp/B00BN5P7LS

This looks practically identical to the Faithfull set which is commonly available in the UK. In which case expect the pieces to be a little rougher than in the product photos! Again assuming the quality is the same they're well usable and excellent value for money, once the irons are sharpened properly.

You should also consider a belt sander, which is far better as a sanding option for taking the surface off rough wood than a random-orbit. Will do a decent job at flattening off too.

Sorry, no advice here but..

If you are in the US and have an amazon account here is a link to the same kit for 15 dollars less w free shipping kit

Used this kit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039ZEW16/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have obsessively researched vise options for a future roubo build. When I build my bench and vises, I plan to buy [this] (http://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Woodthreading-Kit-1-1-TPI/dp/B0039ZEW16) wood threading kit. For $60, plus the cost of a few 1.25" maple dowels, I can make as many vises as I want, and use threaded wood for other purposes like screw advance jigs.

If it comes out nice, I might even sell cheap vise kits, with like 3' of threaded hard maple dowel, a board with through female threads, and a board with stopped female threads (to make attaching handles and stuff easy). Seems like a major unfilled niche in the woodworking marketplace, if you want a wood vise, the only options are pay out the ass for Lake Erie tool works, buy something antique, or buy specialized tooling to make your own. Really, I wish someone else would steal this idea and sell me a cheap wood vise kit!

like this? I've been looking to pick up a set or drive over to mastercar and just build my own kit.

This will probably not fully answer your question, but there is a difference between seasonal wood movement due due to RH (relative humidity) changes and cracking, checking, twisting, or warping due to wood's drying process.

Once wood has been properly dried and it reaches EMC (equilabrium moisture content), then it is stable in it's environment. It should not continue to crack, warp, twist, etc. It will only move - grow and shrink across the grain - as the seasons change.

Some chainsaw carved logs crack, and some don't. That's just the nature of the log it was carved from - not anything done to prevent it. Logs ends can be painted or coated with wax to slow down the drying. That can help prevent cracks, but it won't eliminate them entirely. If a log is green when it's carved, it will likely do whatever it would have done had it not been carved (split or not split).

As for large furniture carved from many pieces glued together, it is important to start with dry and stable lumber. Also wood that is quarter sawn or rift sawn will generally be more stable than plain sawn. Use only the most stable lumber with MC = EMC when it's glued, and that will give you the best protection from future problems.

To expand upon using the words "properly dried" above - if wood is kiln dried improperly it can become case hardened. In this case, there are internal stresses inside the wood. Everything looks great on the outside, but if you plane off the surface or cut though the board, the wood can bend or twist because of those internal stresses.

This is similar to wood from branches or trunk wood from trees that don't grow straight up. The internal stresses in these woods is caused by how they grew. Years of fighting gravity will cause wood to be in tension in one side and compression on the other. This wood will also twist and bend when it's cut lengthwise.

I hope this answers part of your questions. I defer to u/skidemon1198's father - Whatever he says will probably be more coherent (and valuable!)

EDIT: Book recommendation: Understanding Wood - Bruce Hoadley

Is it that simple, though?

Some pens are made of polycarbonate. Some pens are made from a shiny, smooth plastic called acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) - same as Legos are made with.

Then there's a difference between pens that are turned from solid blocks of acrylic versus pens that are made from molded plastic and joined together with a seam. That results in a substantially different pen even when the same material is used.

And there are different types of plastic. The Noodlers pens made of "vegetal resin" is very different from "acrylic resin."

So while it's all plastic at the end of the day, there are nuanced differences in feel, look, composition, shinyness, durability, etc...

​

On a side note I saw these acrylic blanks for sale on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Pen-Blanks-10-Pack-Mix/dp/B06XGSCPYD

I think you would need one of these, of the right size:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039ZEW16/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486720142&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wood+tap+and+die&dpPl=1&dpID=31TibSTWsqL&ref=plSrch

Which probably makes the $10 price tag less attractive!