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I was going to say, a sound card like that should be $3-6 (USD) so you are right in the range. Those things are great for testing but probably not so great as a permanent solution.

If you game or care about audio fidelity for any reason I would go out and buy a decent sound card, yes!

You could "go nuts" and buy something like this Creative Audigy but it probably isn't strictly necessary. Then again, it's only $40 USD.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Performance-Headphone/dp/B00EO6X4XG

Otherwise, just see what kind of port you have free on your motherboard and buy something for around $20 USD that fits. That price range should get you something respectable.
Example (PCI) sound card =
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Channel-Surround-Adapter-PCISOUND5CH2/dp/B00JLREDZG

Good luck!

It has got to be your cable. I can't see what brand Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 you have, but most have DP and HDMI while a few also have a mDP. Like /u/Plastic_sporkz typed, get a DP to DP 1.2. I am confident with this selection. BTW, look at the questions and reviews of this product for a bit more information.

Wow. I just looked at BestBuy and Office/Max/Depot/Staples/TacoBell, and they don't have any.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LM0U2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498745874&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+sound+card+dual+mic&dpPl=1&dpID=41vusjGecFL&ref=plSrch

Here's the one I use, I got it for around 20 though, and it only has 2 inputs. Alternatively, you could buy two of these,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498746083&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+sound+card&dpPl=1&dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&ref=plSrch

and use them in conjunction with your computer's microphone Jack, provided you have enough usb ports.

My recommendation is to shop around, your problem should be easily solved with under 20 bucks. Good luck :)

According to this an i7 average temp is 50-65c
http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000687.htm

My suggestion, clean out your case all the way, clean and reapply thermal past to the heat sink. Also if you want to I have had fantastic results with this fan heats sink combo.

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI

Just as Streichholzschachtel said you would need active DisplayPort adapter.

Just a few hours ago, I replied the following on a similar thread, which could help you pick adapter if you decides to get one:

A while back, on a multi-monitor setup, I've used this HIS Mini-DisplayPort to DVI Adapter AMD Eyefinity-ready and it worked flawlessly right out of the box(at first i tried this Accell B087B-006B UltraAV Mini DisplayPort to DVI-D Single-Link Active Adapter ATI Certified, which did not work, even though it was ATI certified).

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-External-Aluminum-Enclosure/dp/B00E362W9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077336&sr=8-1&keywords=laptop+hard+drive+enclosure

and

https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077395&sr=8-9&keywords=screwdriver+set+small

Here is an altnerative to the case:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484077470&sr=1-7&keywords=laptop+hard+drive

In all likleyhood the hard drive has gone bad.

They do that you know.

You want a laptop 2.5 inch hard drive. SATA is really the only choice for interface these days.

Now would be a great time to move up to an SSD. I have a laptop at home that is a bunch of years old. I put an SSD in it last year and it really added a lot of zip to it.

When you put the OS on it you can go ahead and put W8.1 on it, but the Free W10 upgrade is still running if you know where to get it from:

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade

What you would do is install 8.1 from the disks you have. Get the internet up, go to the desktop, don't bother with any updates (huge waste of time if you are just gonna follow through with W10) and go to that site I posted and follow there instructions.

Bonus points! Once you successfully do a W10 upgrade from W8 there is no more Windows key to worry about! Any future OS reinstall on this laptop Microsoft uses a unique identifier in the BIOS to do the validation.

If OP wants to DIY, A cable tester is in order. Test a short length of cat5 and attach that to one of the jacks with the remote end of the tester still attached (eliminating the short wire as a problem) Check the termination in the attic.

the pinout at the jack is 'correct' B standard.

for the actual crimping, look for something less painful than the standard ends, just make sure they are compatible with your crimping tool.

if you have B in the jack, B in the attic, continuity in the wire, and working ports in the netgear, everything should work perfectly.

Well you're only going to get the program if there's an installable file (.zip, .exe, even a .iso) somewhere on that disk. You don't need the OS to boot to get files off the disk. You just need to connect it up as a secondary drive to an already working computer and go exploring on it. If you have a desktop computer, you can hook it up as a slave drive in the case, or you could go purchase something like this to connect it via USB (this is a good investment if you do this stuff often).

Or did I totally misunderstand and the user want to boot this drive and use the program that is already installed on XP on this drive?

Please reply directly to my comment in the future so I'll get a notification.

You might have just messed up the thermal paste application, as the fans you currently have should be doing a much better job than they are. Stock coolers are never great, and I'm a big fan of the 212 evo which gets me to 4 GHz (up from 3.4 GHz) on stock voltages and 52C on load (AMD 965).

This is not being caused by any other component, it is just bad cooling.

I recommend AS5 for your thermal paste, as you probably don't have any on hand with the stock sink. You can just use isopropyl alcohol to remove the old paste.

I'm not entirely sure how you would make this entire thing work honestly.

I think the easiest way would just be to buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=IDE+to+sata&qid=1556333351&s=gateway&sr=8-3

and then just plug it in your other computer and get it out that way.


Sorry, can't really offer much else

Here is the essentials kit which should have everything you need.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj6rvmn-6_kAhWJ_-MHHem9BNkYABALGgJ5bQ&ae=1&sig=AOD64_1CcWksMGxgmWAQR4EHFajByu-kXQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiW0e6n-6_kAhUKS6wKHTHGBWwQ-pECegUIDBCBAQ&adurl=https://www.amazon.com/iFixit-Essential-Electronics-Toolkit-Do-everything/dp/B01MRNIFR6/ref%3Dasc_df_B01MRNIFR6/%3Ftag%3Dhyprod-20%26linkCode%3Ddf0%26hvadid%3D309763890402%26hvpos%3D1o5%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D6819601340394979510%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dm%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D9028269%26hvtargid%3Dpla-351776178180%26psc%3D1

But if you like fixing all kinds of small electronics, this kit has done me well over the years:
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj6rvmn-6_kAhWJ_-MHHem9BNkYABAHGgJ5bQ&ae=1&sig=AOD64_1ncx1rwLmYIs6QzQtfcp66vJPCgg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiW0e6n-6_kAhUKS6wKHTHGBWwQ-pECegQIDBBn&adurl=https://www.amazon.com/iFixit-Pro-Tech-Toolkit-Electronics/dp/B01GF0KV6G/ref%3Dasc_df_B01GF0KV6G/%3Ftag%3Dhyprod-20%26linkCode%3Ddf0%26hvadid%3D309735728871%26hvpos%3D1o1%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D6819601340394979510%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dm%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D9028269%26hvtargid%3Dpla-354681947454%26psc%3D1

I would get a pcie nvme m.2 external enclosure that supports 10Gbps USB 3.1 gen 2 or is that now USB 3.2 gen 2? Anyway to take advanatge of the pcie nvme speeds don't bottleneck yourself with a 5.Gbps USb connection

https://www.atpinc.com/blog/what-is-m.2-M-B-BM-key-socket-3

you want either a B+M key or a M key

heres a example of a pcie nvme m.2 M-key connector external enclosure

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QVBZZTR/?coliid=I2TE1ACEDZ207D&colid=2CLAN336C1ACF&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

​

I jusr re=read your post and it seems you want a sata m.2 ssd.

The router is a dual channel router so it outputs G and N at the same time. I have not changed it. The other devises can connect to either one. The XP machine is using a G PCI wireless card.

http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-WMP54GS-Wireless-G-Card-SpeedBooster/dp/tech-data/B0001D3K3A

Looks like a SATA drive. I think you could use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO/ref=asc_df_B01E7EPKUO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309743296044&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1842643210158902027&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032055&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-571722167468&psc=1

If you end up going the enclosure method, and don't know anyone that has one - [use this cable set] (http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B001OORMVQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344519708&sr=8-2&keywords=SATA+to+USB+cable) - $8 on Amazon with free shipping if you have Amazon Prime. Not an enclosure, but still lets you hook the drive up USB and is much cheaper than an enclosure.

Depending on your motherboard there is usually 2 IDE slots. Sorry to sound repetative but you will need to google-foo the make/model for the pc and find out which is primary and which is secondary.
You will need to pick up a couple of standard IDE cables. Each cable can hold 2 drives. The standard practice is to put the master at the end and slave in the middle.

Cables Unlimited 18-Inch IDE Dual Device 40 Pin Cable

So you will have 2 HD on primary IDE slot cable, 2 on the secondary IDE slot cable and 1 on the IDE card cable.

Then there is setting the drives correctly in the bios if it needs to be configured and installing Ram.

BTW the RAM if it is appropriate for your MB it can only go in one way, so make sure u get a flashlight and look at the slot, and compare it to the chip to make sure you are putting it in correctly.

You would need something along the lines of this USB Drive Adapter You will be able to browse the drive and hopefully get some of your files back.

Windows failing to start up, and the pre-boot diagnostics confirm that hard drive is failing.

Based on the service tag, it looks like the laptop is already out of warranty, so a new hard drive would be an out of pocket expense.

As for recovering data off the drive, you could pull the drive and use a [SATA to USB adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84?th=1) and hook it up to another PC and see if you can read data off of it.
If this doesn't work, your only other options are to restore from a backup, or send the drive to a data recovery service (very expensive).

Good luck to you.

Ugh... Fix those links please:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRNIFR6/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GF0KV6G/

Or use []() - [ name ] ( link )

This is an eSATA port. That must be on the back of the external HDD you are purchasing as well as your computer.
This is an eSATA cable.

Old spec = DP 1.1. (Can only run 4K @ 30hz).
New spec = DP 1.2 (Can run 4K @ 60hz).
You want 60hz.
I stand behind this recommendation. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005H3Q59U/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468899658&sr=8-2-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=display+oort+1.2+cable

What about this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is this the same as what you said, just minus the enclosure?

ssd

ARRIS modem

Netgear Nighthawk router

Xfinity - this is the speed test on my laptop in my bedroom

iPhone 5 - fully updated

Hearthstone - fully updated

I don't know what other info I can provide.

Arris

I needed an Active DisplayPort adapter to get a third monitor going on my 6950. It's possible you need the same.

pull the hard drive, if its wet, make it dry, bag of rice, the usual... salvage data first. plug that drive into another computer (usb-sata would work well) get your data safe first. then worry about the rest.

get this and keep that drive in a hag of rice until it comes in - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467135731&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+sata

try disconnecting all external devices first.

you can't access bios, is that correct? if so, last resort would be taking it apart and resetting the bios if possible, or take out the hdd and connect it to another machine via this

and remember: back things up regularly, so your boss doesn't kill you. solely relying on old machines is a bad idea.

I'm struggling to think of much else!

Can you try the headset in your phone (without the splitter this time) and confirm that it does work properly there? Also how about trying some other microphone/headset in your PC?

An odd part from your answers is that the back ports give you nothing... Are they certainly the right ones? Can you make sure your speakers aren't set to the wrong configuration (see here)? A photo of the back of your computer would be nice to confirm. I might take a poke around the BIOS in case the ports have been accidentally disabled somehow.

If it's certainly the PC that is acting up, and the headphones are fine, then a cheap soundcard would side-step the problem. USB or PCI.

Overheating would not be a driver issue , its more likely to be a cooling issue with fans either being dead or filled with dust or the thermal compound that sits under the cpu and gpu heatsink has dried up, if you want to invest in laptop cooling .. link

Is that different than this?


Or the switch in the OP?


Actually my problem is a little more: I want to record OTA programs on my stand alone DVR while watching cable or OTA, or record a cable program while watching OTA, without connecting and disconnecting cables.

Is that too much to ask?

I'd try it, but be warned; the reason I said not to keep powering up and down is because you might have a failing drive on your hands, the more you power-cycle, the more of of a chance you'll lose your data.

The drive costs $29.99 currently btw https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5IB20Q?tag=hawk-future-20&ascsubtag=tomshardware-deal