Top products from r/3dprinter

> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

• How long have you had your Flashforge, and how much have you printed on it?
  
  I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)
  
  
• What do you like the most and the least about this printer?
  
  Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.
  
  Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)
  
  
• Have you printed with ABS?
  
  Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.
  
  
• If so, did you experience any problems such as curling?
  
  No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA
  
  
• Have you had any problems with the metal bed warping or with leveling the bed?
  
  Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.
  
  The first was when I got it
  
  The second was when I added the glass build plate
  
  The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.
  
  That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)
  
  
• Finally, how is the customer service or community support for this printer? Thanks again!
  
  The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.
  
  single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.
  
  My Thingiverse for example prints
  
  Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:
  
  Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::
  
  Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes
  
  Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.
  
  Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.
  
  TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.
  
  
  Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
  

I'd say Amazon. They're all from China in the end/beginning, but Amazon is pregnant the best.

This seems to be the best reviewed at a good price https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6

Idk about $180, but you can definitely save a bit of money if you order it from the warehouse in China. It just takes longer to arrive, and I personally feel more comfortable dealing with Amazon, as compared to eBay or Alibaba.

OP, here are a few purchasing option links. Also, I would go with the glass bed option if I were you. The eBay link has the option to choose "Ender 3 + Glass Bed" at what looks like no extra cost. Otherwise, you can buy the glass bed separately for less than $20.

eBay Creality Warehouse store ($205): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender-3-Ender-3-Pro-3D-Printer-220X220X250mm-DC-24V-1-75mm-PLA/223496146513?hash=item3409688e51:m:mCXoexVEaY-yqetXfGJ-tyg

Alibaba Creality Warehouse store ($200): https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Official-Creality-3D-Ender-3-Ender_62047106886.html?spm=a2793.11769229.0.0.49733e5fSDdLkY

Amazon.com ($230): https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ender+3&qid=1571603563&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVko5TVZIMU5VVzRKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTk4NDkzMkxIQ1ZQRDVRSE1NJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMjc0MDlFWEc2V1BKT0ZGWjkmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Ender 3 Glass Bed ($17): https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1571603812&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRjhOSlg2T0ZVRDNLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDY4MzE3MkJJV1ozNk5VSENKUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjY0MzIwWUhHWFJSU0U0V1NBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Look at something like this :https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB1U886?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I used to just wreck prints trying to get it off with the stock scraper they send with the printer. It’s a thinner edge so it really seems to pop it off the bed a lot easier. I got that second one I linked a few posts back and I don’t use one of the tools but the longer one I’ll use after using the first tool on big prints outside of that this one really seems to get under prints with out to much effort.

Another solution that I have heard good results with but I not personally use is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xQdWAb79FZS82
It’s on my list to try but my current printer doesn’t really need anything to help with binding or release from the bed. Now I did pick up a bed surface called geckotek : www.geckotek.co it’s supposed to be a bed pad like on the printer already but is supposed to just release prints after the bed cools down. Might run around $20 so it’s not to bad of a loss not sure when I’ll get around to installing it but could be better than the current surface it has now.


For a camera/smart switch look into a octopi setup. It uses a raspberry pi but it acts as a print controller. From what I heard is you can start/stop prints as well as upload prints you sliced and just run it from there. But you are supposed to be able to remote view it with a camera as well. I just never got around to setting one up but I do have everything if I ever need it. I normally run my long prints on the days I know I’m home but I normally don’t have to many issues though I have failures in the middle of the night but with me being close by I can catch it before any chance of damage. I do have my printer on a ups but I think it’s on the end of its life span so I will most likely need to replace it or the batteries later this year.

Hello all,

I'm trying to solve a persistent clicking / extrusion / constant print failure problem with my Qidi X-One 2.

I own a Qidi X-One 2, and for the last few weeks I am experiencing a clicking, extrusion problem that I cannot seem to fix. The filament twists and turns coming out of nozzle.

I changed the nozzle and tube a few weeks back, and printed ok for a few prints, but now the same problems are back. I only use PLA.

I recently placed this order through Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the cleaning filament last night, following the instructions on the package. I ran about one to two feet. I tried cold pull but the filament broke both times and did not pull all the material from the nozzle.

I ran some more cleaning filament, and then switched to my Solutech white PLA. I started to run the PLA to flush out the cleaning filament, and as this happened, clicking is back, and the filament twists and turns coming out of the nozzle.

Its like it did nothing!

I have also ordered some needles for nozzle cleaning, but these haven't arrived yet. I have also ordered some more nozzles and tubes, and will exchange for new ones when they arrive. But ultimately I would like to prevent the problem from happening in the first please.

Please let me know what else to try. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am fairly new to 3d printing.

Thank you!

Everybody is recommending the Ender 3, and I'd put my vote behind that, as well. You really can't go wrong with that one. It prints decently out of the box, and the sky is the limit with regards to how you can upgrade/modify it. In fact, you can hack it up to run dual extruders if you get an SKR (or other 3rd party) motherboard for it!

People have varying opinions on whether or not the Pro model is worth it. My opinion is that it's not-- get a regular Ender 3, and the money you would have spent on the Pro, put that towards either an EZABL or BLTouch and an aluminum extruder.

A lot of people swear by glass beds. I have the Creality official borosilicate glass bed, but I have a sheet of PEI stuck to the smooth side of it, and it is great. I'm contemplating upgrading to the Hieha Polypropylene build surface, though. I have it on my Hieha SX-4, and it works brilliantly. Plus, it's only $20!

How about a nice Stratasys? Oops for $300 better go with a select mini V2:
https://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/21711?gclid=Cj0KEQjwrYbIBRCgnY-OluOk89EBEiQAZER58kwSc1xq_iea4n4yOLLp71sCvbZa_SZPft3H5Kh7TTAaAixI8P8HAQ

Or maker select, which is slightly over budget, but based on the i3 platform and probably something that you can grow with.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-13860-Maker-Select-Printer/dp/B018GZBC3Y

Both are great printers and will give optimal quality for the price.

ANYCUBIC Mega-S New Upgrade 3D Printer with Extruder and Suspended Filament Rack + Free 1kg PLA Filament, Works with TPU/PLA/ABS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J9QGP7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o8mRDbXKG2KPK

This is $40 off the $300 price tag right now and it’s amazing.
The base for it locks your prints down better than anything I’ve ever used and the prints it does are basically push button, walk away. I’m in love with mine.

From my brief research https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE?sa-no-redirect=1 seems like a very good first 3D printer. But that's way under your budget. So I'm sure for your budget there are hundreds of better ones out there.

are you looking at the right one? I think that the zeus fits perfectly into that description

http://www.amazon.com/AIO-Robotics-Zeus-All--Printer/dp/B00FXBFP24/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453149076&sr=8-1&keywords=aio+robotics+zeus

I've had no luck finding PTFE tube aside from the common sizes!

However, I have found press fit connectors that let you step down from a 6mm OD tube to a 4mm OD.
You could likely use a couple to step between the two sizes of tubing. I don't know that this would work for your purposes, but it may be worth a try!

Here are some on Amazon

You can also find them on ebay for under $1 (USD) a piece.

Try searching for "4mm 6mm pneumatic push fitting."

That's great!

But, the rest of us aren't so confident about the Anet A8 seeing how there are multiple examples of them catching fire.

#1 2017

#2 2017

#3 2017

#4 2018

That's me taking 5 minutes. Actually I spent more time writing this than researching this. An exhaustive search would probably yield more and these are just the ones people are telling us about.

Maybe they can be made safe, but that needs to happen in the factory, not after the fact by the consumer who probably isn't an electrical engineer. You're not an electrical engineer are you?

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert. Take my advice at your own risk.

I don't know what's causing these fires. But, I've heard mention of mainboards and PSU's. You should probably take the task of heating off the mainboard and put it onto external mosfets for the hotend and the hotbed. You might also want to replace the factory power supply (PSU) with something more robust. As long as the A8 is 12 volts I'd probably suggest an ATX power supply conversion if you're handy with a soldering iron and feel confident you can do it. ATX power supplies come with a number of built-in safety features. Here's a wiki on choosing a PSU.

You might also want to add some basic fire suppression to your print area. This maybe would stop a fire, but it's not going to stop an electrical short creating heat and therefore acting as an ignition source. It might give you more time to react in the case that a fire does start.

Edit: I couldn't find the rating on the rangehood fire extinguisher so, this ball extinguisher that is ABC rated might be a better option if you can figure out how to suspend it above your printer which shouldn't be too hard as it comes with a metal stand.

I would definitely add a fire extinguisher nearby where you print.

Then add a fire alarm above your printer and in the adjacent room.

This is not just advice for you, but it's advice for anyone. I've done all three of the above suggestions. I've add the stove rangehood fire extinguisher. I've wall mounted a fire extinguisher in the adjacent room. I've also add two fire alarms, one above my printer and another in the adjacent room.

Be safe my friend and heed the warnings these multiple fires are broadcasting.

>smart Lcd controller

Do you have a model # or something for this so I can look into that? I would like the option of not having to set this up next to my computer.


>gummies

What are gummies?

Edit:
Is this and this what I need for the e3d extruder?

I wish I could of helped you with your printer as I have the Jr and was able to fix my problems without extensive repairs. It works much better than before and I use other brand filaments. Of course being able to do that depends on the firmware version of the JR.

As far as recommendations I'd look at Monoprice printers:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Maker-Select-Plus-Printer/dp/B01JBEF3T8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486692459&sr=8-3&keywords=monoprice+3d+printer

or

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1486692450&sr=1-3&keywords=3d+printer

Just get a little spinning turntable from Target (or Amazon) - like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Copco-2555-0191-Non-Skid-Cabinet-Turntable/dp/B0036OQU1U

(Get the 12" model)

My best recommendation... [linked below] The teeth grab in a counter clockwise direction and could give you the leverage you need to get the threaded piece out

Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_quqIDbX33B1DA

Probably because that's an affiliate referral link so they make money, as is yours.

Here's a straight link.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G4LZK11/

Formfutura is a Dutch company : https://www.formfutura.com/
I use their easyfil PLA and reform rPLA. The latter being recycled.

On Amazon 🇮🇹
https://www.amazon.it/Forma-Futura-EasyFil-Printer-Filament/dp/B00RTFMCMS?th=1&psc=1

Do take into account that the easyfil PLA is per 750g and not 1kg

Anycubic I3 Mega is a bit cheaper than that.. Its one of the ones I use.
<$300 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Mega-S-Extruder-Suspended-Filament/dp/B07J9QGP7S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=anycubic+mega&qid=1568823814&sr=8-3

Is there a reason you didn’t just link it directly to amazon?

amazon link

Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_oVLkybMZSNHRH

You can buy it new for less.

https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Desktop-Accuracy-Self-Assembly-Tridimensional/dp/B00N7I1ZVU

I ordered this filament, the spool says -/+0.05

I'm guessing that the wiring diagrams you're finding are for a double pole, double throw (dpdt) switch (or similar). It appears what you have is actually a lighted switch that's single pole, single throw...I wouldn't use it in this application.

You can get a new one on amazon for <$10 or you can get another pop-in plug at your local hardware store. Since you're dealing with mains, you should leave nothing to chance, though. I suggest going out and buying a new switch which has a wiring diagram on it. For safety's sake, get a dpdt.