Top products from r/4x4

We found 31 product mentions on r/4x4. We ranked the 139 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/4x4:

u/Amenisis · 2 pointsr/4x4

Normally trail riders want easy access to these tow points. Yes, they absolutely can be used, but standard OEM mounts are a hassle.

Generally if they aren't easy to see and get to on the trail without climbing under a rig, the average cable puller will not consider them tow points, and some trail leaders might not let you go on a trail without purpose installed after market hooks. Usually vehicles only have one front and rear tow point and you need two front and two rear for safety and convenience. Hooks are considered basic off road items.

However, all this depends on how you plan to use it off road. Are you wanting to trail it, or camp, light excursions?

They are cheap and easy to install and can be tucked under the bumper if you like. Just bolt them to the frame, don't weld them there. Welds will generally fail before bolts because lets face it, you will be "snatched" more than pulled if you are stuck and not high-centered.

Get at least one (or two) good tow rope(s) and attach it before you go out and just toss the free end in your window, or on your roof. This way when you get stuck, you can climb out and just toss the rope to the rig in front of you and your are out in a jiffy. This will really go a long way to good karma on a trail if you aren't asking others to come get you, or slowing down the others because you unhook after every pull. You will end up using your rope 4x more than a winch anyway unless you are alone on a trail.

Any wheeling will be horrible on gas milage, but if you want to be tidy and keep your rig looking clean, I have seen more than a few people use hitch-mounted winch mounts with handles and only have the winch there when wheeling. And you can toss it in the back and lock it up when your not using it as a daily driver.

Installing a tow hitch in the front and rear to move a winch from front to back as you need is not perfect, but it is very acceptable when done safely, so you get two-for-one winching. Make sure you take good measurements, or have one custom made, or even just go to your local 4x4 shop and get them to help you with the measurements. Never significantly cut/alter an OEM hitch for obvious reasons.

A secondary benefit to a tow hitch on both ends is you can use it as a tow point instead/in addition to tow points and move this around as needed also.

As far as a winch, you don't need a 18k monster, but enough to tug yourself out. General rules are 2-3x your vehicles weight. On a trail, most often if you are in a caravan, a good trail leader will put you sandwiched between two experienced trailers, so about 1/2 the time you will just pull rope to the rig in front and use it as your anchor. So weight shouldn't be a big issue.

Also get a snatch block and a tree saver so you can pull yourself out if you need to. This way you don't harm the tree, but still use it to get yourself out.

  1. tires
  2. tow points (however you want) and ropes
  3. winch
  4. lift?

    But first, tires.

    Ask anyone that has been on a trail, MT tires (not AT's) should be your first investment. You can get a really good MT that will last a very long time as daily use if you do not get an overly aggressive tread. And they look badass.
u/RichardLillard1 · 1 pointr/4x4

Much more than you think or feel unstable at. I still wouldn't want to put it past 30°, but that's just me.

At any rate, the angle finder helps a lot with your feelings on the matter and gets you experienced with the truck a little more.

You could also check out a simple clinometer for the truck like this one.

I would prefer something digital for me, but simple is good and a great option as well.

u/olek2012 · 7 pointsr/4x4

MAXSA Escaper Buddies are great, I cannot praise them enough. I’ve used them for two seasons now and they’re still good as new. The key is to be very careful not to spin your tires on them. If you spin tires then you melt the plastic and the little nubs flatten. You want to position them where your tires won’t spin at all. Plus if your tires are spinning, you need to adjust anyways because it means you still don’t have enough traction for forward motion.

These have saved me out of quite a few precarious situations. They have held up very well and just on my last trip we jacked up a YJ and used two of these board stacked on top of each other as a platform in the snow to jack from. They held up great and no signs of cracking or breaking!

u/turnoffable · 3 pointsr/4x4

It's not that big of a deal.. BUT, I don't know how much wiring experience you have..

Going on the assumption that it's a 300 watt LED bar... That's 25 amps or less of draw.

You need big enough wire to handle the current draw (25 amp+) and a fuse or circuit breaker and a relay. The 300 watt light will pull 25 amps at 12v so using 30 amp relay/fuse/breaker should be enough...

You will also need a switch BUT the switch is only going to be used to power on the relay and the relay will then "switch" the high current from the battery to the lights.

In simplest terms, you can wire it this way....

  • Get a 40 amp Relay (30 amp should work too, but I like the 40 amp relay better). You can get them with a wire harness so you don't have to run the wires right "to" the relay. 40 amp relay / Relay harness
  • 30 amp fuse/breaker near the battery. That wire runs through the fuse to pin 30 on the relay and this will be the source power line for the lights. Here is a 30 amp breaker you can find at your local auto parts store.. It is self resetting. [self resetting circuit breaker] (
  • Pin 87 on the relay is the output of that power line above and you run it to the red wire on the LED bar (Don't forget to run the black wire on the LED to vehicle ground)
  • pin 85 on the relay is run to ground on the vehicle.
  • Pin 86 on the relay is the "trigger" wire for the relay. This wire is what will turn on the light when it gets power.

    The Easiest way to do this is tap into the fuse box (under the dash) and pull 12v from something that is "switched power". That means it has power when the key is on. Now, run that tapped wire to a switch and from the switch to the Pin 86.

    With that simple wiring above, when the key is in the on position, you have power going to the switch, when you flip the light switch the energizes the relay which takes the power from the battery and send it on the the light...

    Now, you need to use big enough wire. I'm going to assume you are going to need to run less than 10 feet of wire for the high power (the one on the big fuse). If so, 12 gauge will be fine. You can use 14 or even 16 gauge for the "switch" wire and the ground to the relay to save some money..

    hopefully all that made sense.. If you want, we can make the "switch" wiring fancier so you can have lights with the switch and/or with the high beams..
u/AngryPandaEcnal · 1 pointr/4x4

These are some shitty ones I took while working on it. A bit of it has been revised.

Isolator link

Link to part references on alternator:

I actually needed a new alternator anyway, so I tossed it in a week before I put in the second battery.

I had most everything lying around as spare parts from other projects except the isolator, and the batteries were more or less about 75%-85% off list price because the person I bought them from didn't know how to charge them properly (Thank you, Craigslist). I wouldn't personally recommend Optima's, as I've heard that they're quality has tanked pretty hard in recent years since moving to Mexico for production. Everyone has their favorite brand, though, and to be fair they've treated me extremely well while I've had them. The wire I had laying around was I think 2gauge, (although I think factory wiring for GMT400s is 4 or 6).



The first thought I had was of where to put the isolator, which I decided to mount directly to the fender underneath the ECM. So I pried up the ECM:

The next thing I did was put the isolator in the spot and check the fit by reinstalling the ECM.

After making sure it mounted up flush and didn't have any issues, I used the bracket included with the isolator to drill the mounting holes: I'm not sure of your climate, but I spray painted over the bare metal after I had the holes drilled just to make sure (standard black primer).

Next I don't have a picture of, but I actually connected all wiring to the isolator including the fuses. This was just down to being a lazy sod, as it's easier to wire things up while they're out of the space for the ECM bracket than inside. A friend of mine who deals with electricity way more than I do (and has been shocked less than I have, therefore meaning he's probably better at it) said to use two fuses on each side of the isolator to be on the safe side. So the diagram would look like:

Wire(To battery)----Fuse----Wire----Isolator---wire----fuse---wire(to vehicle electrical/AUX center):

The small wire on the bottom is the ground for the switch, the wire leading off to the left is of course the hot wire for the secondary battery, and the wire that runs to the right is for connecting to the fuse/relay/AUX center under the hood. With fuse holder in place: Note that I'd go with a better fuse holder, but this is what I had laying around.

Next up is bolting everything down. For the fuse holders I just used the screws that came with, they were self taping so no need to drill the holes. The bolts in the picture I actually just tossed in because again, I had them on hand. I've since replaced them with some auto bolts and locknuts, and then of course spray painted black on the underside to help prevent rust or corrosion. Also again I put the bolts pointing the wrong direction, while the ones I've used now have them mounted heads down so they don't ever have a chance of catching anything (like my hands while I'm working on the damn thing).

Next up is where to actually put the cable to the Fuse/Relay/AUX block. This is something a TON of people get wrong on these trucks. Here's the best way to put it: That lower stud actually is where the other battery cable mounts to the truck as well (the line that runs across the radiator cowl dips, ducks, dodges, and terminates there). The two posts on top are actually for for easier tapping into the electrical system (things like plows, trailer brakes, etc can be run from here). EDIT: DESPITE THE PICTURE, THE PASSENGER SIDE BATTERY AND THE SECONDARY BATTERY MOUNT ON THE SAME STUD. They should both mount on that side stud that 'points' to the fender of the truck. The top posts are just for AUX cables for accessories.

The final part of all of this is wiring the isolator correctly. The one I used and posted the link to has four posts: Two large posts (for to/from the battery) and two small. One small post is for a ground wire. The other one is to actually activate the isolator. You can do this either with a manual switch, or you can do what I did and run it to a port that is only hot when the truck is turned to the ON or START position of the key.

From the isolator:

And where I ran it inside the cab:
The wire actually starts out as red but ends as white (because that's the only fucking connector I had on hand that would actually fit that tiny ass little post in that damn box). You're on your own finding your way through the firewall, I already had a spot open because of part of a stereo/backup camera install. Use a rubber grommet at least, and if you do have to drill a hole be extra careful of where you put it.

Connect the batteries, then insert the fuses and get your multimeter. Hold your multimeter prongs to the primary battery, then have your handy dandy wife, 4 year old, or well trained dog flip the switch for your headlights. The voltage should drop slightly. Have them turn off the lights (after the second time yelling "Okay, turn it off"), then move to the secondary battery. Put your multimeter prongs on the terminals, then tell them to turn on the lights. If wired correctly there should be NO DROP in voltage. Tell them to turn the lights off (again, on the second time going "Okay, turn off the lights!"). Have them crank the truck and check your voltage on your primary battery; it should be higher now that the truck is cranked and the alternator is running. Then move to the secondary battery and check the voltage there. If you wired it correctly, then the isolator will have switched to the "ON" position and it will also have a higher voltage than your first test. This means that the alternator is maintaining the charge on both batteries when the key is in the ON or START position on the column. Yell for your helper to turn off the truck ("Seriously need to have their hearing checked"), and tidy up.

If I had to Do It Again (and I will after a few more upgrades):
I'd use a better fuse holder, something sturdier. It isn't that the one I have doesn't work, just that I know it isn't super sturdy and that bothers the living piss out of me. Now that I think of it, waterproofing wouldn't hurt. I'd also look into premade rubber caps for the terminals rather than what I have currently, which is electrical tape and painted on rubber. Do NOT over torque the bolts on the isolator, as they can very easily be stripped.

The benefits of dual batteries is probably already known to you, but just to reiterate: If you're adding a winch, use it while the vehicle is cranked and running. If you aren't going to be running, then make sure you get a battery that can deep cycle (manufactures make some that are decent at both starting and deep cycling, but not masters of either). Also make sure you don't wire your accessories to separate batteries, or you'll run the risk of running both down at the same time despite isolators and not being able to be helped because damnit that shit was hilarious and we were laughing to hard to get the jump cables.

Edit: Also check out, it has a bit of information on our trucks. As per the norm with the Internet in general and forums in particular some of it is over pandering bullshit and some of it is solid information.

u/cmr252 · 7 pointsr/4x4

I go to Moab every year in my stock Toyota FJ. I would recommend getting this book for your journey. It gives tons of info on all of the trails (turn-by-turn directions), and tells you how difficult they are. I would stick to the easy trails in your Bronco, I've found that "intermediate" in Moab is pretty hardcore. There are plenty of easy trails out there that will still get your heart racing and provide ridiculous views. Two of my favorites are Gemini Bridges and Long Canyon. I'll be there next weekend!

u/boon4376 · 2 pointsr/4x4

Make sure you bring something to re-inflate them too! Investing in a decent direct-to-battery pump is a great idea for this trip and anytime in the future. Those cigarette lighter pumps are really not designed to re-inflate multiple larger volume tires (these are great - used one for years to re-inflate after off-roading)... And a shovel too.

Deflating even stock 32" tires (in my Wrangler JKU, to around 20 PSI) significantly increased traction - I could go anywhere. When you air back up, the lack of traction is astounding. Just keep your speed down when you air down that low.

u/ihc_hotshot · 4 pointsr/4x4

Pretty sure it's just a standard forest service road.

These books are great for trails.
Pretty much the bible.

There is one for Ca too but it's not as good.

u/Krakkles · 2 pointsr/4x4

There are electrical switches that can turn a compressor off, that's probably your best option:

u/cycobiz · 1 pointr/4x4

I'd suggest the Viair 88P. The first review gives a comparison of all the new Viair models. I use mine nearly every weekend in the summer to air up my F250's tires (315/70/17) from 12psi to 50psi when leaving the beach, and it can do all four in 15-20 minutes. Pretty good for a 12v inflator.

I had the Harbor Freight 150psi 12v inflator before that, which worked slowly...for about the first two trips. Took like 30 minutes to air up. Then it just lost pressure. Guessing that a seal blew out.

u/kevan0317 · 1 pointr/4x4

Thanks! MV-50 MV-1050

u/Monskiactual · 1 pointr/4x4

Lol Other peoples vehicles are Generally more difficult. Most modern cars/SUVs are unibody, They have often have one or even zero tow points. They really can't be snatched because they don't have frames. They will come apart like a pop can. You are very likely to screw up their car. Unibody cars are just not designed to experience the kind of lateral forces snatching requires

There are three practical things you can use to recover unibody vehicles in general

  1. max tracks. If they can inch forward bit by bit. ( safest and best option.) you can buy a 100 set, they work fine for me and my Xterra.
  2. Good old fashion bottle jack..( the first and best piece of recovery gear)
  3. Inflatable air jack
  4. Roll Tracks. These are pretty much only useful for helping lighter, lower power vehicles get off of sand, which happens to be your situation. They really excel in that particular scenario. I have seen someone drive a lumina over a dune with these. are more useful than carpet scraps, but less so than max tracks. They are also like 30 bucks...


    The air jacks with an air compressor takes a bit, but its highly effective and can lift almost any uni body vehicle. I think exhaust powered is kinda bullshit, but its also works. You can use all of the above things together.


    Pulling on other peoples normal road cars is very likely to end bad for you. If you can help them get a little traction under the front wheels, you can push them with your bumper if you need to.

    Just remember your Jeep is like 50% war machine , 50% truck. Most Modern vehicles are 50% lawn mower and 50% trash can. The War Machine is capable of destroying the Trash can almost instantly with far less force than you think.
u/chayos00 · 7 pointsr/4x4

Got two of these from Pep Boys for my truck. There's a few mods you can do to them you can find with a quick Google Search to help them out a bit. But for the price you can't beat it compared to a similar performance couple hundred dollar ones. I've had one last me about 6 years and my newer two have been with me about 2 years now.

MasterFlow MF-1050 Air Compressor

Big brother (never used by me yet)
SuperFlow MV-90 Air Compressor

u/SgtBrowncoat · 1 pointr/4x4

Get one of these. For recovery it works better than lifting from the chassis because you don't have to deal with suspension sag, meaning you spend less time jacking. It isn't any good for changing tires, but that isn't really what a high-lift is for. Another option would be to lift from the trailer hitch.

Even if you go with sliders, you will want an adapter for them so it doesn't slide and drop your rig. Right now, the high-jack isn't useless, you can still use it as a come-a-long with a tow strap.

u/SmokeOneBro · 2 pointsr/4x4

10,000lb recovery strap w/ tow hooks and hardware along with these:
Edit: you may want a higher rating than 10,000 depending on your use!

u/privatize · 2 pointsr/4x4

This is what I currently have two of

One is mounted on the rear roll bar, the other is underneath my driver seat, really wedged in there.

u/3enjammin · 2 pointsr/4x4
They're called Flexy Flares. I went with the 4.5 inch ones. I just chose the first link, if you look around you could probably get them a little cheaper, and I think this link is 2.5 inch.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/4x4

Non-mobile: this one.

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/kingstonthedog · 2 pointsr/4x4

They make a product that allows you to lift via attaching to the wheel
Hi-Lift Jack LM-100 Lift-Mate

u/jcardona1 · 2 pointsr/4x4

Got it from Wal-Mart years ago. Tried looking for another one but they don't carry them anymore. This looks to be the same one, but over 2x more than what I paid!