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Not an expert, but

I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.

Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.

My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
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Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.

If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.

Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.

Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.

Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.

You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.

Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.

Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.

Then you can address your other issues.

Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:

• Voltage Regulator
  
• Starter Solenoid
  
• Starter
  
  If the current ones are working, call them spares.
  
  Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
  
  Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
  
  
• Wire/Brushes
  
• Jack/Lift
  
• Compression Tester
  
• [Feeler Guages] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4) You want these to go from at least .002 to .014 inches
  
• [Caliper] (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) If you need to measure float height, you want to be accurate.
  
• Angle Finder Useful for float height, as most carbs need to be held at a specific angle for accurate float height adjustment.
  
  Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
  
  And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.

Yea they do, but you can't buy shitty chains. The best ones have nubs that stick up rather than just being chain wraps. I have a set of THESE that I throw on my LT Z400 when the snow starts to fall. I did also buy a set of THESE which make a tight fit easier to get (plus they're cheap).

If you want to "Go Big or Go Home" you can look up XGEN track systems. They give you a lot more traction compared to wheels in the snow, but they're expensive.

Just having the right tire for the right situation is key. The stock tires they come with have to kind of work in every situation, jack of all trades master of none. Like, I live in an area where rocks and rocky river crossings or sand dunes aren't a thing. Its mostly just hardpack, and thick mud, so why not get a tire that was made specifically for that? With tires theres a trade off for every thing you do. Finding whats right for you makes an enormous difference over the stock tires. Biggest performance gain per dollar I'd say by far.

Also, ground clearance on the 450 theres only a couple ways you can get more of it and thats one of the easiest. You'd gain 2" over the stock 24"s going to a 28".


So then why a clutch kit? Well going to aftermarket tires effects the gear ratio and they're heavier so it robs a little low end power. So a clutch kit changes the springs and stuff to correct it (sort of) and make it grab the belt harder and get your acceleration back (if not more). The trade off being that the clutch engagement is slightly higher and more harsh. EIP or QSC are great.


To fix the factory cvt intake you'll have to fab something up on your own or get a snorkel kit (not recommended). Really just need something like this to keep air coming in but water out (mostly). Sometimes in rare cases the cvt box itself leaks from behind where it bolts up to the crank shaft. You have to pull the primary and secondary off to fix it and its a real mess.

Went with these

Much brighter, still probably going to get some additional lights once I get a front basket finished from my welding class to get some width to the lights, these are pretty streamline.

http://www.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-75-401-Silver-Computer/dp/B000MPSBOK/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414723888&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=trail+tech+vapot

this is the exact Trail Tech Vapor computer that I bought for mine. its awesome!

Looks like some sort of heated hand grips. Here is a Amazon link I found.

https://www.amazon.com/Western-Power-Sports-Heated-Grip/dp/B001A6CUB0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1543204851&sr=8-9&keywords=heated+atv+hand+grips

On the small-ass batteries you're going to find on ATVs, it doesn't matter. I use a Battery Tender Jr. on my Recon 250. Works like a charm.

I found a local shop to mount them pretty cheap, so cheap it's not really worth the hassle of me doing it myself.

I'm going to buy these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RW54Y2B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACW8M2QXR07XT&psc=1

Are they the bearclaws you're talking about?

Fuel economy. The more RPM you turn, the more gas you burn.

I would recommend you grab a $30 combination hour meter/tachometer that will tell you the RPM you’re turning. When just running around gently, shift around 4000-4500 rpm, when you want to go fast, twist it to closer to 6000 or more. If it sounds wrong at those high revs, back it down.

Hardline Products HR-8061-2 Hour Meter/Tachometer for up to 2-Cylinder Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOOAXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wNVBCbTNPWCVB

If you are looking for an ATV trailer get a YUTRAX. The off road tires let it go pretty much anywhere the ATV can go. I do kind of wish I had opted for the dual axel model for hauling firewood, but I can get a lot in this thing.

My first thought was to rig something up with a fibreglass fish tape used by electricians.. Like this https://www.amazon.ca/Labor-Saving-Devices-84-240-Fiberglass/dp/B0015G9Q44

Flexible and non conductive.

i use this mount and mount it on the bar behind the seats where the harness straps attach to between the driver and the passenger facing forward. figure its somewhat inside the cab and protected from random smacks from external obstacles and what not.

Here is the mobile version of your link

https://www.amazon.com/KFI-Products-100430-Winch-Polaris/dp/B0027UPPDI

that's your winch mount.
the winch will set behind the two bars/in front of the radiator

This is the one I bought for my non-Warn plow blade. It is a Warn product so I just needed to re-drill mounting holes for mine - https://amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQQRB4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kolpin Rhino Grip - Double - 21505 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q4XIHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GpZKAbV4CNZCT

Just search Google, Amazon, eBay, etc for atv gun mount and there are dozens of options.

In addition to a coupler lock, get lug nut locks and whatever wheel you put the lug nut locks on throw in one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL75-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B001H494DC
This will make it so that there is almost no way someone can take the trailer.

So it probably wouldn't be good to cut into it so I can mount a hitch plate flush against the rear frame?

This is what I want to mount

Kolpin Universal IRS 2" Receiver Hitch - 85100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFVJQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UMJuzbC6DA99H