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If you can afford a stand alone 35mm scanner, that will help give you quality scans right away. An Epson or Canon flatbed will also work if they're more in your budget.

Search Craigslist/thrift stores/garage sales for steel development tanks and reels. Covers are probably going to be crap (unless they're metal covers, then I'd check the gaskets) so you'll probably have to buy new ones. Check eBay too, sometimes someone will have a setup they just want to get rid of for a quick buck.

Budget friendly chemicals:

Rodinal and [Kodak HC-110](https://www.freestylephoto.biz/5010541-Kodak-HC-110-Film-Developer-1-Liter-(Makes-32-Liters) or the off [brand version of it](https://www.freestylephoto.biz/10190-LegacyPro-L110-Liquid-Film-Developer-1-Pint-(Makes-2-Gallons).

These are liquid developers that are known to store long and you usually only use a small amount of them to make a working developer. A bottle of each would give you more than enough options and years/rolls of developer. With some simple math, the Rodinal dilutions are pretty straight forward but the Kodak HC-110 ones seemed a little weird to me at first. This resource page helped out big time. You'll find times, dilutions, and ISO's on Massive Dev Chart.

Standard Kodak Fixer mixed up in a gallon of distilled water (just pour a little out of the jug, maybe 1/4 of it into another container, pour in the fixer powder, cap it off and give it a good shake. Just be sure the cap doesn't come loose. Once you feel it's well mixed, add the rest of the water back in, or as much as you can and make sure it literally comes to the top by the cap. Light won't harm the fixer but oxygen will. Always store it air tight).

With the developers above (Rodinal and HC-110), you won't need any bottles to store any working solutions. But if you want too, buy the 500ml and 1 liter hydrogen peroxide bottles from the big box store pharmacies. Often those are under a dollar a bottle and beats paying $5 for an empty Datatainer bottle that's the same color. Just empty them out, give them a good rinse and let them dry and there you go, light tight containers.

Color C-41 film chemistry, you'll be hard pressed to find anything cheaper than this kit.

Other ways to save money and shoot more is learning to bulk load. The Lloyds style bulk loader is a good solid unit that can often be found on Craigslist and eBay. It's been around for decades so you'll find a lot of them. That and the Watson bulk loaders. Not a fan of those personally but those too can be found super cheap.

Good starter bulk black and white films would be:

Kentmere 400

Kentmere 100

Ultrafine Xtreme 100

Ultrafine Xtreme 400

Arista EDU Ultra 100

Arista EDU Ultra 200

Arista EDU Ultra 400

If you have a local film lab or if your Walgreens, CVS, etc, still processes film ask for the empty film cartridges. Often they'll still have a sliver of film on them that's just enough to tape onto and reload with other film. All else fails there's always eBay

Getting a Matin Film Leader Retriever is an excellent idea as you can recover accidental rolled up film, and keep your empties to use for future after processing. Here's how to use one. It's probably one of my best purchases out of all my gear.

And don't forget plastic funnels. Those smaller automotive ones for oil changes work great. You'll need one for your black and white fixer and if you use the color kit then one for the developer, one for the blix, and one for the stabilizer. Be sure to label them well with a sharpie so you don't cross contaminate chemistry.

Hopefully the above helps you out and maybe others as well.

All-in these books cost me about $35. Top to bottom, left to right:

Galen Rowell - The Art of Adventure - a huge coffee table book with some amazing landscape work, even more amazing that a lot of it is on 35mm and prints really well at the large size.

Galen Rowell - My Tibet - another coffee table book with Tibet landscapes and essays by the fourteenth Dalai Lama

Photography as Fine Art - an quasi-instructional book with some interesting photos from "Steichen, Stieglitz, Weston, Cartier-Bresson, Man Ray and Penn." The print quality is pretty good too, especially for a combo-book like this.

Ralph Steiner - In Pursuit of Clouds - I can't believe I found a copy of this famous? flip-the-bird-at-art-photography book with nothing but, you guessed it, pictures of clouds. Surprisingly, they are mostly pretty cool pictures.

John Sexton - Listen to the Trees - almost impossible to photograph due to the metallic paper used for the book jacket, this little hardcover has some great black and whites of, yep, trees. I found it right next to In Pursuit of Clouds and thought, why not?

Developing your own Photographic Style - a lot of thought exercises and examples for how to think creatively. I can't say it's groundbreaking, but there's some good stuff in here too. Also, it was $2!

1. wein cell battery is the modern replacement for this camera although I had mine converted to use a Varta 625 battery when I had it repaired. apparently they last much longer. just remember to switch it off "A" when the camera isn't in use to conserve battery.
   
   
2. I've taken off the top of mine in an attempt to diagnose issues and it was pretty easy to dis and reassemble the cover/film advance leaver. I did not go any further than that. Havent tried to clean the viewfinder or anything either, that might be based on how good of shape it's in and if its worth the effort.
   
   
3. There are a lot of guides on youtube, I haven't tried it but I know you're going to need a spanner to do it.
   
   hopefully some of that was helpful, I know it doesn't answer everything, but it's what I know from my experience. outside of that I'm not sure and wouldn't want to lead you astray
   
   The canonet is a great little camera, a little over hyped but still pretty great, enjoy it!

To add to what others have said re: the RZ67:

I have owned one for a while, and I’ve taken it out on trails, all-day photo walks around towns I’m visiting, etc. It’s not light, but the secret is to pack correctly.

I have a semi-springy camera strap on mine ([this Optech](OP/TECH USA Super Pro Strap - Design B (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092LFW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uqxCCbS7WE39X)) which reduces the impact of the camera weight on your neck with each footfall. It has the added benefit of acting as a brace when you’re shooting slower speeds. Stand still, hold your breath, and let the entire weight of the camera hang from your neck. Reduces camera shake from handholding.

So what I do is use a backpack for all of the gear. I strap the tripod to it, put the other lenses in there with film, filters, extra film backs, etc etc. Light meter in my pocket. Then I wear the camera with a lens around my neck. The weight of the backpack and the weight of the camera help to balance each other out a bit, so you’re not too heavy in the front or back.

You’re not going to be winning any marathons or trampoline competitions in this configuration, but it is doable.

As far as cost, you’ll be fine. I bought my kit piecemeal, and only bought things basically in perfect condition, and still probably only paid $1100 for the body with waist-level finder, three film backs, and four lenses (50, 90, 110, 180).

Film backs are available in 6x7, 6x6, and 6x4.5 so you have multiple format options at your disposal (although I rarely use my 645 back since I can just crop the 6x7 in the darkroom if I want).

If you have any questions about the camera or system I’d be happy to answer them for you. Out of the (20? 30? I’ve lost track) cameras I own, the RZ is my distant favorite.

That looks a little like fungus but it could just be a horrendous amount of dust. It doesn't look like the typical haze which tends to be really even. I just took an Elmar apart last week to clean it. It's really easy.

You need a set of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HFYKK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRPWCN0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The rubber cups unscrew the black central ring on the front of the lens. That frees the trim ring with the name on it, a tension washer and a spacer underneath. Then you can spin the lens out with the spanner.

Once it's out you can open the aperture all the way and carefully clean the inside of the rear element group with a q-tip moistened with naptha (lighter fluid). Do the same for the front element. Clean them up with a microfiber cloth and reassemble. You'll still have dust inside but it'll be way way less. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Go slow. This lens is easy to take apart so if you don't like how it looks when you get done it's easy to redo it. Be careful around the aperture. It's likely you'll get some naptha on it when cleaning the lens. Just let it dry (open and close it a bunch of times) before reassembly.

edit - this is a great lens. Well worth cleaning.

It definitely started out pretty clunky, but I'm super used to it at this point. I walk miles with it around my shoulder or in my bag, shooting mostly handheld. This is the strap that I use and I would recommend getting something similar. It's a heavy camera, and the extra padding this strap has is super helpful.

Congrats!

Just a few tips I've come up with since I've owned mine:

• Get a really good neck strap. I use this one.
  
  
• I would recommend having two film backs so you can use two different types of film at once. It's nice having a 100 ISO and higher ISO or a color and a B&W roll going at the same time. Having replaceable film backs is the big perk of this camera.
  
  
• Also, having a monopod makes it easier to take shots while walking around.
  
  
• I store my entire kit in a LowePro backpack. It makes it easy to carry and lug around.
  
  
• Definitely get a shutter release cable. I use it all the time when I'm shooting on a tripod. Since the camera is so heavy, not touching it means there is less of a chance of it falling over.

Hey there,

Same thing happened to me. I tried to use craft and hobby glue to attached a small piece of plastic. Unfortunately, that didn't work. The repair costs about $200 from the estimate I was given for a new double-tooth spool. I decided it wasn't worth it.

I simply use a small piece of masking tape or small (not too sticky) sticker to attach the film leader to the spool itself. Works great. Except when it rewinds the film, the tape or sticker ends up in the canister. Not a HUGE deal if you develop your own film but if you send it to a lab, you HAVE to let them know this. Some might even turn you away.

Buy a film leader retriever like this one. Pull the leader out, remove the sticker yourself and then your film is lab ready!

If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to message me directly!

Ansel Adam's books are amazing. The Camera and The Negative are really good. The Print is also good but not really relevant to a hybrid work flow. Still neat reading though.

I got a set like this Neewer Professional Spanner from Amazon, not great but worked well for me so far. Also used it on a few lenses with success.

You'll want to become familiar with how the mirror lockup mode works (and get a cable release), as that's going to be pretty helpful with slower shutter speeds.

Also in mirror release there's sometimes a delay between firing off the shutter and the shutter actually firing. Not a long one, could be a fraction of a second, but it's enough to catch you out if you're rushing.

Don't rush this camera.

You'll probably want one of these.

Also use cheaper film for the first test roll (I like using Fomapan 100 to test cameras... actually it's a nice oldschool film but it's usually less expensive than Kodak or Illford) since your filmback might have light leaks. Mine does around the hinges (I wrap the thing in gaffer tape, at least until I get my hands on a new seal kit.

Ansel Adams: 400 Photographs. Fantastic compilation covering a broad range of his work. I know that most people have seen his work, but this book was extremely inspiring and a testament to his skills.

You're gonna need chemicals

Other materials:

• Developing Tank
  
• Dark Bag
  
• Accurate thermometer (I use a scientific thermometer)
  
• Measuring beakers or graduated cylinder of 1 L
  
• Funnels
  
• Three 1 L liquid containers (I used soda bottles)
  
  I was able to obtain most of these except the developing tank, dark, bag, and chemicals cheaply. But the FPP does offer a full kit for sale through their store.
  
  They also have a pretty helpful video, and there are a bunch of walkthroughs online. I'll list a couple.
  
  
• Petapixel
  
• Fstoppers
  
• DIY Photography
  
• Even B&H has one
  
  The first guide has you warming your chemicals in a bath, I use a home depot bucket.

Look up the book “the photographers eye” by Michael Freeman. Its a book focused completely on composition. It has chapters dedicated to each element of composition such as balance, framing, contrast, figure and ground, etc. If photography was a language, then composition would be the grammar. It’s the rules of photography and you can look through portfolios and photo books as much as you want but it won’t matter if you can’t identify the rules being used.

https://www.amazon.com/Photographers-Eye-Composition-Design-Digital/dp/0240809343

Check out this panel. 95 cri, adjustable color temp, very bright. On sale for prime day too.
RALENO Led Video Light

What exactly do you mean contacts in the case?

And here’s the amazon link

WeinCell MRB625 Replacement Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009VQJ7?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I've found a changing bag like this to be really helpful when diagnosing problems. You can't see but you can feel around to see if the takeup reel has film or not.

Agreed - the film is the output of the camera, not the scan. You can learn a lot by looking them over carefully, and a lot of scanning issues can be traced to the scanner struggling with something inherent in the negative, like it being too thin, or too dense, or improperly fixed.

I'll also take this moment to suggest that people check out "Way Beyond Monochrome" from the library to get a better idea of all the things that can happen between the exposure and the scan, and how much of it you have direct control over.

(ok GenXr)

Here you go :D mamiya neck strap

I use a "film leader retriever", sometimes called a "film pick". It works very quickly and consistently once you get the hang of it.

• https://www.amazon.com/Photographers-Master-Printing-Course/dp/0240803248
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Way-Beyond-Monochrome-Traditional-Photography/dp/0240816250/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=monochrome+lambrecht&qid=1555584586&s=books&sr=1-1-fkmrnull
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Examples-Making-Photographs-Ansel-Adams/dp/082121750X/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=40+examples&qid=1555584607&s=books&sr=1-1
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Making-Fine-Monochrome-Prints/dp/187331907X/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=barry+thornton&qid=1555584659&s=books&sr=1-2
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Edge-Darkness-High-Definition-Monochrome-Photograph/dp/0817438157/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=barry+thornton&qid=1555584659&s=books&sr=1-1
  
  These will keep you busy for a while.

I think that's about right.
My D90 was the precursor to the D7000 so I just missed it.
I got this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHHKCKI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since you didn't specify, I'm assuming color development. You'll need the following. I've linked some items to amazon for reference, but do your own shopping as these are likely not the best prices.

• 1 x Unicolor C-41 1L kit link
  
• 3 x 1 Liter containers with lid, preferably opaque
  
• 2 x funnels
  
• 1 x Digital thermometer
  
• 1 x paterson style development tank + development reels. I got the 2 reel tank, so you can develop 2 rolls at the same time. link
  
• 1 x dark bag link
  
• 1 x film canister opener link or film leader puller link
  
• 1 x scissors
  
• 1 x box of latex gloves