Top products from r/Anet3DPrinters

We found 16 product mentions on r/Anet3DPrinters. We ranked the 13 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Anet3DPrinters:

u/0nn0 · 2 pointsr/Anet3DPrinters

A RAMPS 1.6* kit would be the cheapest. Best would be something like a Einsy RAMBO* (a board very similar to the one on the Prusa MK3), but that's $120. A good middle of the road solution is the RUMBA+* combined with some stepstick format stepperdrivers. The stock anet uses A4988's*, there's also the option to use DRV8825's* (better resolution, but some people experience resonance related issues) or TMC2130's*. (allows for very silent running) and a screen* (if not included)

In any case, make sure that it has some kind of overcurrent protection. I prefer solutions with blade fuses (also commonly referred to as automotive fuses) It really pays to do some research of your own and to see what you want to get out of a printer. Eventually most A8 frames get converted to other models using the other parts of the kit for the electronics. You should check out the wiki, it contains a couple of good pointers to get you started.

*^(please note that the links provided are meant as illustrations and that I don't necessarily mean to endorse the linked products)

[edit]

As stated before, just toss the melzi and/or anet controller. They're fire hazards. And while you're at it, better improve rather than sidegrade.

u/PM-ME-YOUR-HANDBRA · 1 pointr/Anet3DPrinters

Definitely do the safety upgrades first and foremost. Printing those will help you get familiar with the machine and give you a chance to dial in the calibration.

First thing I did to the machine after printing a test cube was install mosfets for the extruder and heat bed.

My first "real" print was a mount/shield for an upgraded PSU and fused power switch.

I'd also recommend you print some cable chains and belt tensioners as they will vastly improve operation and adjustment.

u/bridymurphy · 1 pointr/Anet3DPrinters

The bearings went out in mine and I replaced it with a silent running fan. I can't tell if it's audibly running while it's idle now.

Scythe Mini KAZE 40mm Silent Case Fan (SY124010L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LB0M8S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Edit: a word

u/JohnWasser · 1 pointr/Anet3DPrinters

You can get a 5-pack for $11.99 via Amazon Prime:
https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Pieces-Printer-Endstops-Mechanical/dp/B014Y0VGOU

These have the JST-XH connectors. Cheaper sets have the black connectors for 0.1" spaced bare pins, like on a RAMPS board.

u/doomrabbit · 3 pointsr/Anet3DPrinters

You may want to look into a new barrel. The PTFE liner in that probably got toasted in the overheat, may crack and jam the filament.

Source: I did the exact same thing myself.

u/treva1990 · 1 pointr/Anet3DPrinters

Redrex Upgraded Aluminum Bowden Extruder with 40 Teeth MK8 Drive Gear for Creality CR-10 Series and other Reprap Prusa 3D Printers https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DDGGN92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xlb4DbE0PW70W

u/notthesharpestbulb · 3 pointsr/Anet3DPrinters

It was the PSU! I replaced it with this one and now I'm printing again!

u/ggppjj · 2 pointsr/Anet3DPrinters

What do you have already coming in regards to upgrades?

You'll want at least one MOSFET, if not two, and you desperately want to ditch the included power supply ASAP. This one has active cooling, and seems to be the most popular, and has a printable mount. After that, others have already mentioned belt tensioners. This one for X axis and this one for Y axis (With included scratch guard) do wonders for my print quality. You'll also probably want to stock up on M3 and M4 screws, nuts, and wingnuts, and some loctite.