Top products from r/AnetA8
We found 47 product mentions on r/AnetA8. We ranked the 59 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 8
IN-DOOR USE ONLY!High quality Switch Power Supply Widely used in Industrial automation, LED display, communications, etc.You can choose the input voltage (110V/240V) by switch.Smart device surge protection for Shortage Protection, Overload Protection, Over Voltage Protection
2. 3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack)
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 5
MOSFET APPLICATION:This high power module is a general add-on heated bed power expansion module for 3D printer.After Sales Quality Guarantee:All of our mosfets past quality inspection before shipment, Anyone receives a defective one please contact us, we guarantee to ship the new replacement.A GOOD ...
3. 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 3
Replaces stock LM8UU Bearing commonly used in many 3D PrintersFits Perfectly in 3D Printer Pillow Block. Please be aware of people who leave one star reviews, these only work if your rods are not bent. IF rods are bent, they lock up and don't work correctly. These do not need any lube or grease, the...
4. AIWAN LEZHI 5 Meters GT2 Timing Belt Width 6mm Fit
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 3
Pay Attention: This product only sold by LEZHI , other seller is fake , if you want to buy real one , please buy it from LEZHI store .Do not confused by other lower price, enjoy your shopping!Material:Rubber,Width:6mm,Model:GT2,Length: 5MBelt is rubber, fiberglass reinforced, 6mm Width Timing Synchr...
5. BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 3
A general add-on heated bed power expansion module for 3D printerCompletely solve the hot bed power is too large and the load current issue. It can work with the Anet A8With this addon module to your 3D printer motherboard you can lead the maximum current up to 15AUnder the premise of normal heat di...
6. Anet A8 Complete Auto Bed Leveling Kit Glass Compatible with Detailed Installation Instructions - Firmware Included
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
Full Email Support in case you have questions - [email protected] Check our reviews. We are serious about fast support!Detailed and clear PDF instructions with pictures written by UptaniumCapacitive Sensor (Glass Compatible)Pre-compiled Firmware-simply upload and go!<b> (NOT ANET A8 PLUS COMPATIB...
7. URBEST Inlet Module Plug 5A Fuse Switch Male Power Socket 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Product Name : Power Socket w Switch Fuse;Material (External) : Plastic, Metal;Color : Red, Silver Tone, Silver ToneVoltage & Current : 10A, 250V AC;Hole in Top Face Diameter : 0.42cm / 0.16"Hole Center Distance : 3.9cm / 1.5";Bottom Size : 4.7 x 2.7cm / 1.9" x 1.1"(L*W)Total Size : 5.8 x 4.8 x 3.4c...
8. Anet Auto Leveling Position Sensor for Anet A8 3D Printer, Upgrade Auto Self-Leveling Heatbed Position Adjustment Inductive Proximity Sensor with Mounting Plate and Screws
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
Suits for auto-leveling Anet A8 3D printer.Pretty solution for auto-adjusting heatbed level.Comes with mounting plate & screws, pre-soldered connector.Anti-jamming three-wire, 140cm / 55.1in cable10-30V DC working voltage, output NPN.NO.
9. Wangdd22 3D Printer J-head Hotend with Fan for 1.75mm 12v V6 Direct Filament Wade Extruder 0.4mm Nozzle+Volcano kit
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 2
Applicability & compatibility: compatible with all 1.75mm E3D V6 Makerbot 3D printer; NTC connector with terminal, easy to intallAnti-leakage & anti-blocking design: extruder nozzle connect connect with the tube seamless, prevent print material from leaking or blockingHeat resistant & ventilation: 1...
10. Syhonic Metal DIY Hot End for RepRap 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle, 12V 40W Heater, NTC 3950 Thermistor Hotend
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
11. 24Pins ATX Benchtop Power Board Computer Power Supply Breakout Adapter
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
The benchtop power board kit was created to provide quick access to the typical voltages needed when developing physical computing projects (embedded systems).After assembling the kit you’ll have access to four different voltages (3.3V, 5V, 12V and -12V) each with their own replaceable 5A fuse.Eac...
12. GO-3D PRINT 220mm x 220mm Borosilicate Glass Plate/Bed w/Flat Polished Edge for MK2 MK3 Heated Bed 3D Printer
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
This glass is 220mm x 220mm and NOT for Creality3D Ender 3 3D PrinterTo print with ABS or PLA, lightly spray the surface of the glass with AquaNet hairspray, then install the glass.Flat Polished Edge for safe to handleGood fits Anet A8 and most of I3 MK2 MK3 Heated Bed 3D PrintersDesigned by GO-3D P...
13. [Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal V6 Direct Extruder Hotend for 3D Printer - 12V /1.75mm Filament / 0.4mm Nozzle.
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Link to online assembly and configuration instructions is printed on the packageOur hotend comes with original design silicone protective sock12V 40W heater, 12V fan, NTC 3950 pre-wired thermistor are included in the kit
14. Games Workshop Citadel Liquid Green Stuff (0.4 fl. oz, 12ml)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Ideal for filling in small gaps on miniaturesWater-based formula18ml
15. MEAN WELL LRS-350-12 348W 12V 29 Amp Single Output Switchable Power Supply
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 1
Primary output voltage (vdc): 12Output current (a): 29Maximum output power (w): 350Family: lrs-350Input voltage (vac): 90 to 132, 180 to 264
16. Nilight RGB Strip LED Rope Light
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
12V DC (adapter not included) Super bright Waterproof Cool White 3528 SMD LED stripLength:16.4 ft./5 Meter 300 LED lights per reel. Allowable cut every 3 LED lightsEasy and flexible installation. Ideal for home and business lighting decoration.Comes with 3M adhesive sticky backingHigh brightness, wi...
17. eSUN 3D Printer Cleaning Filament 1.75mm Natural 0.1kg for All 1.75mm FDM 3D Printers, 1.75mm Cleaning
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Industry's first 3D cleaning filamentExcellent heat stability, Wide cleaning temperature range of 150 to 260 celsius.Cleans the extruder's interior by removing accumulated residual filaments.Possesses a certain level of adhesive quality. Will not clog extruder.Clean the 3D printer's extruder before ...
18. Crenova MS8233D Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter Home Measuring Tools with Backlight LCD Display
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
【100% Safety Assurance】Built-in Double Fuse. Overload Protection on all ranges.【Auto-ranging Tester】Accurately measure AC/DC voltage, AC/DC current, resistance, frequency, continuity, diode, etc.【Backlight Display】 Designed with 3 1/2 digit LCD display and 'Backlight', showing the readin...
19. SODIAL(R) DHT11 DHT-11 Digital Humidity Temperature Sensor Probe Moudle For Arduino PIC
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Power supply: 3-5.5V DCOutput signal: digital signal via single-busOperating range: humidity 20-90%RH, temperature 0-50CelsiusAccuracy: humidity +-4%RH(Max +-5%RH) , temperature +-1CelsiuResolution: humidity 1%RH, temperature 1Celsius
As far as quality gains you'll experience from changing over to a Bowden/E3d v6 is that you're lightening the overall mass of the Hotend carriage.
If you stop and think, the gantry is carrying the load of the stock Hotend as well as the weight of the stepper motor and the enertia it's contending with in those back and forth movements which can cause defects in your print if your frame isn't solid.
Is not a design flaw, but just an effect of the design.
Like I mentioned earlier you're limiting yourself with exotic filaments with a Bowden, but you're shedding weight to reduce vibration and gaining the opportunity for more speed without having to reinforce the frame a great deal.
But look at extruders like the Titan. These are high performance direct drive extruders that are lighter than stock, but still heavier than a Bowden but you keep the benefits of printing any filament you like.
As well as you don't have the bad characteristics of A Bowden. The Teflon tube that will run from the extruder to the Hotend on a Bowden system, that guides the filament will have a bit of 'give' in it when the extruder is pushing and pulling the filament.
Here is a crude way of describing it...
Let's say for the sake of simple math, that it takes 1 pound of pressure in your stock, direct drive extruder to properly push the exact amount of required filament required for laying a line of plastic onto the heat bed. Now realistically that pressure changes constantly but let's just say you need a consistent 1lb of pressure all the time. It only has to travel a couple of mm's before it's in the Hotend.
In a Bowden system, the extruder pushes the filament through the long Teflon tube and the tube will give way to that pressure. So though your extruder is pushing at 1lb, by the time it reaches the Hotend its only seeing 0.95 lbs because of the tube absorbing some of the pressure. You can compensate with firmware to tell the extruder to actually push 1.05lbs so that when it reaches the Hotend, it's getting the 1lb that it needs. But it's never really 100% accurate. And if your firmware isn't set perfectly you'll see it in the print, like uneven layers and such. Not a very elegant explanation but I'm typing from my phone.
PETG is stronger and much more heat resistant than PLA. PLA is good for whatnots and things you'll sit on your desk that don't need to be structurally sound. PETG is used for things like printing a hook to hang a rolled up extension cord out in your non climate controlled garage and it not break under the weight over time.
PLA is super easy to print and has a broad window of settings to get a nice print. PETG is not as forgiving in the settings department and you have a narrow margin for error. But once you get it dialed in, it prints like PLA. I mentioned polycarbonate earlier. It's even stronger and more heat resistant and you could print chain links with it and hang your front porch swing on it. But it's damn unforgiving and I struggle with it to this day.
Here is the cleaning filament I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q8bkDbV3KFZDT
I only use it when going from one type of filament to another. Like from PLA to PETG. Just changing colors of the same type of filament you wouldn't need it. It's the temperature differences between the 2 that cause jams. PLA prints around 190C. PETG is around 240C. That reminds me of another benefit of the E3d v6. It's all metal and can handle the hotter temperatures of filaments like PETG. You have a Teflon liner in the throat of your stock extruder. I think it's only good up to about 210C.
I haven't really shopped for SLA printers. Consumer SLA printers are still in their infancy. But what I have stumbled across are very small. Like only 6 inch by 6 inch build volumes for $200-$300. And you're limited to the resins that are available. I think only PLA type plastics are available right now. Nothing you could print anything functional with.
I absolutely must recommend a PEI sheet for printing ABS. It's the best printing surface I've used for being able to print ABS without having issues with the print tending to pull off the surface. I was using glass which is great for PLA, but even with hairspray, I was having issues with small areas of ABS pulling up somewhat regularly. Because it's a stiff sheet, it's easier to apply than tape without worrying about air bubbles. I still recommend having a boro glass plate as it's good for ensuring your bed is perfectly flat. Links below.
PEI Sheet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVQJ7QK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_GC2lDb0FXF07W
Borosilicate Glass: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFOI2VS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_vD2lDb92XDS8T
Also, just FYI, if you plan on printing any part upgrades for your printer, especially if you plan on using cable chains, keep in mind that ABS prints pretty much require the use of an enclosure to keep the temperature stable and warm. PLA has a tendency of deforming when even only slightly warm and I had a number of issues when I first started using a cabinet as a result. You'll want to print your part upgrades in ABS so as to maintain rigidity in a warm enclosure. You can always start with PLA and later upgrade the parts to ABS, but keep this in mind if/when you move to filaments that require a warmer print environment.
And above all, upgrade your firmware to ensure you have some minimum safety features. I nearly had a fire early on with mine when my hotend thermal probe was accidentally pulled out during a print causing it to have a thermal runaway.
There are a few things to comment on here.
The biggest thing is to make sure you actually HAVE a Micro Swiss all metal hot end and not just an all metal throat. There's a BIG difference there. The Micro Swiss all metal hot end and the E3D all metal hot end (including clones) have those fins to aid in cooling that you just can't achieve with an all metal throat alone. Plus, it's really not the best idea to be blowing hot air on the extruder motor like that in the first place (another design flaw with the Anet A8 original design). So yeah, check that out and make sure you didn't just switch out the throat and that's it. Also, be sure you have upgraded your firmware to Marlin and that you're not running the stock firmware that originally came on the Anet A8.
This is excellent information, thank you. It's been a bit overwhelming looking at all the mods out there which are a "definitely do this before you print anything or you'll burn your house down" and "this helps but can probably wait for now".
I've already soldered the wires to the heated bed and started installing a mosfet for the bed as well. (Sounds like one isn't really needed for the hot end?)
Do I need something like the 500w ATX PSU, or can I get away with something like this (recommended by the Punished Props Anet safety upgrade page)
Can you tell me more about that fix for the heater block with kapton tape? I saw it recommended that I switch to one of these? (recommended by the letsprint3d.net Anet safety mods page)
So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.
I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.
After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.
Good luck!
http://imgur.com/a/iSODG
as you can see, my setup is far from completed, I have a 4 switch relay, to control led strip lighting and fans, planning on hooking up printer power to it as well.
Also have a DHT11 thermometer, hooked up to monitor enclosure temp.
Octoprint is straight forward to install, went well, and enclosure plugin very easy, I really like it.
PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.
The original power supply is junk. Here's what I replaced mine with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0109IMRPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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When I hit "preheat PLA", you don't even hear the fan change speeds. Works good!
On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:
I hope this helps!
This is the PSU I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I printed these belt tensioners on my other printer so I could put them on during the build: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784375
I do have some better belts on the way and actual idler pulleys since this thing doesn't have them. I was considering doing the AM8 mod as well, but I'm impressed with the rigidity of the lexan(?) frame, so I may try to do an AM8 build from the ground up, instead of upgrading this guy.
Do you have a photo of the issue you're seeing? Do the stock gcode files the SD cards come with do it too? It sounds like a slicer issue or the rear end stop isn't getting hit.
I have a set of 7 picked out on amazon and my free trial expires in 3 days I'm gonna order them soon, just waiting on a link to something else I am supposed to order for my dad.
Here are the ones that I have chosen what do you think of them? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5IjoDb99E75FN
Cheaper than a new house. If you are even remotely considering doing long prints, you gotta get it.
This double pack was only $16 and it comes with instructions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5HBFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It includes the wires, but I think they're a bit short so I'm buying longer ones for the power supply.
I just printed this holder for it. Look through the files and you'll find the double-version.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018906
Looking at the instructions, this looks like a trivial change. The 'hardest' part is crimping the connectors to the wires. Other than that, you're just moving some connections from the motherboard to the MOSFET.
I haven't actually done the upgrade myself. I was hoping to last night, but I had to work a double shift. I figure it will take an hour or two, with half that time looking for my wire crimpers and cleaning up the holder I printed.
Are you using the belts that came with it? They're plastic and are terrible and will cause all sorts of abnormalities in prints due to stretching and slippage. Get a roll of this instead, it's a cheap upgrade, but it probably won't be your last. :) :
https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Meters-timing-Rostock-GT2-6mm/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542164349&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberglass+belt+anet+a8
I use this one. Has worked good so far. You'll need to print new brackets first tho.
Wangdd22 3D Printer J-head Hotend... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESTJUL8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You should definitely replace it. I replaced my stock A8 PSU with this one: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pye9AbCXGDZ5C
I ordered an A8 and I get it this Sunday. Can you give me some more detail on the 4 things you suggest upgrading?
I looked at flashing the Marlin but do I need any extra cabling to perform the flash?
Do either of these fill the prereqs for the upgrades you mention? I ordered them as they came in a package deal with the printer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which power supply should I order? Did I forget to mention anything? I am trying to make sure I buy all of the stuff so I am ready to build on Sunday. I am gonna get a Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint as I only currently have a zero W and a Pi 4 available for use.
Just get something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG
you were going to need one anyway.
I still have my stock PSU and never even installed it after reading about all the issues.
Mercurry 5 Meters GT2 timing belt width 6mm Fit for RepRap Mendel Rostock Prusa GT2-6mm Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lsKQBbB5MHDW2
just ordered this now realizing not sure if fiber glass, what are your thoughts on this belt??
An easier way to install an ATX PSU w/out voiding warranty would be to purchase a Benchtop Power Board, 16 gauge wire, and a crimp connector kit.
To my understanding, you will also need a dummy load on the 12v rail in order for your ATX PSU to properly supply power, a Benchtop Power Board/ Breakout Board will do that for you without the need of cutting up wires :).
Here's one for example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX8KIZX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here's also files to mount virtually any ATX to your Anet A8: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2256502
Also to mount Breakout board if you choose to do so: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1996830
Amazon, here's one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
With the power off, disconnect the heat bed's power cables from the logic board. Take a multimeter and measure resistance across the positive and negative power wires, it should measure 1.2 ohms.
If those are fine, measure the resistance across the thermistor (the temp cable). It should measure around 100k ohms.
If any of the measurements show open then move the measurement up the bed itself to see if it's the cable or the bed that's broken.
If you don't have a multimeter, order one from Amazon or go to your local auto parts store and buy one. It doesn't have to be fancy, this one is fine.
You have to use a MOSFET for the bed and hotend. Takes the load of those cheap boards.
These are the ones I bought.
3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EkS2Cb7EATCBK
This one: https://www.amazon.com/Anet-Self-Leveling-Adjustment-Inductive-Proximity/dp/B07B3NBVPV
Mine came in the box.
Actually they're back in stock:
Anet A8 Complete Auto Bed Leveling Kit Glass Compatible with Detailed Installation Instructions - Firmware Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BPNCNXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yIjzCbW313SBQ
Probably not, get this power supply https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eTopxizu+12v+30a+Dc&amp;qid=1555679452&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3 and also get a v6 hotend, trianglelab sells near identical ones for $15, the stock heatbreak has a tendency to fall out
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX
I believe these are what you are looking for?
Igus 8 linear bearings. They were the suggested replacement when I got my A8 many moons ago.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdb_S8joDbFR7WG1C
Just a cheap one from Amazon. Someone did a video about how much power the various parts of the A8 pulled, I think the bed was 11watts, the hot end 4watts and one watt per stepper. And that the stock psu struggled to put out 20 watts. So the one I got was 30 watts and both the bed and hot end heat up faster. I went ahead and set up dual mosfets, because why not? They cost 10 bucks for 2 and potentially divert 15 watts from passing through the notoriously prone to melting motherboard.
eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_Bs8uCbH65ZK0T
This. My power supply was dead on arrival and wouldn't fire up. The ones that ship with the kit are kinda crap.
Bought this one on Amazon and it's been great for 1.5 years.
eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gmb4Cb8FSPKHQ
Only downside is it won't directly screw to the frame. I have mine sitting next to the printer.