Top products from r/Arcade1Up

We found 164 product mentions on r/Arcade1Up. We ranked the 223 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Arcade1Up:

u/SuperScathe · 6 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I'm 37 and have wanted one of these since I was 10 as well. Also work in IT, but as a programmer, but I have done a lot of PC building and repairing on the side for decades. Never owned or worked on an arcade cabinet before, or worked with Raspberry Pi before. The Arcade1Up MK was also my first (and only so far) cab. As a tinkerer, I modded mine immediately (as in, within 3 days of ownership), and I'll give you some tips for if/when you mod yours that will save you a lot of time and money, because I made a lot of mistakes with mine buying wrong or insufficient parts, and general things that I would have done better/differently if I got to do it over again.

Modding is NOT hard. It's as easy as building the thing out of the box was (requires moderate effort and very little skill).

Hardware:

  1. Get a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ from Amazon (seems to be the cheapest place, as it's $37.50 with free shipping there, but other stores charge $35 + like $5+ for shipping).
  2. Mistake #1 for me: I went with a 256GB MicroSD because I WAY overestimated how much space I'd need, because I was looking at "complete" ROM sets that had a million duplicates, lightgun games, trackball games, spinner games, bartop touchscreen games, a bunch of adult stuff, like 500 Mahjong games, etc., and I knew I also wanted to download video previews for a Hyperspin-like setup. Depending on the systems you want to emulate, a 64GB MicroSD should be plenty. If you want to be safe (hey, maybe someday you'll get a modded control panel with a trackball, spinner, and maybe you'll do an AimTrak setup), go with 128GB. My 256GB card is a huge waste, as they're very expensive.
  3. If you get an aftermarket joysticks/button kit, just go with the $56 Sanwa kit. I went with the EG STARTS joystick & LED buttons kit, and the buttons look and work amazingly, but the joysticks are garbage. They're worse than the stock joysticks; the only reason I'd use them over the stock joysticks is because they're 8-way (stock ones on the A1U MK cab are 4-way for some reason). The joysticks have WAY too light of a pull, and a pull-then-release will result in it springing back and hitting the opposite switch (for example if you pull left and let go, it'll spring back and briefly trigger the right switch). I got Sanwa sticks to remedy this, but it set me back $50 for those + another $10 for the 8-way gates, so that totals $115 for the controls. Don't worry, your A1U stock battops will work with those sticks.
  4. If you want LED buttons (they do look incredible), then just get a cheap decent LED button kit of your choosing and spend $46 on two Sanwa sticks. You'll come out way cheaper than I did.
  5. You don't need an amp for your audio with the RPi. I spent $20 on an amp and didn't even end up using it. Just plug some cheap powered PC speakers into your monitor controller board to use the HDMI audio. I then mounted the speakers to the top of my cab in the back, so they're not really visible but the volume knob on them is easy to reach. I've seen some people mount PC speakers right on the sides of the cab, but I don't like that aesthetic personally. If you want to go the extra mile (I plan to try), disassemble the speakers, mount them on the panel between the kickplate and the control panel (after making speaker holes or purchasing an aftermarket one with holes drilled already), and then make an extra hole in the center of that panel for the volume knob (just mount the board behind there, with the potentiometer sticking out, and then put the plastic knob right back on the dial to cover the hole).
  6. You will need to drill two 1 1/8" holes in the panel between the control panel and kickplate for select/coin buttons. I've never done any woodworking in my life but was able to do this easily. All I did was measure the vertical halfway line (drawing a horizontal line with a square and a pencil), and then 1/3 of the total distance from both the left and right edges, drawing vertical lines. The intersections are where you drill your holes. Very simple. It's only a 3/16" thick panel so it's no sweat at all. Just be sure to remove the panel before doing this, and use some clamps to clamp it securely to a piece of scrap wood.
  7. You can wire your RPi to use the stock A1U on/off switch. It's very simple, but you may need to reverse the switch (by just physically turning it around), or else it might be backwards ("Off" is "On" and vice-versa). It's just 2 wires. This'll have the added benefit of turning your RPi off cleanly, and also powering down all your peripherals, including the monitor and USB devices.
  8. You're gonna want a bluetooth keyboard so you can access DIP switches in games, and use Linux commands.
  9. If you plan on connecting any extra USB stuff beyond the controls, you'll want a good RPi power supply. You might also want a powered USB hub for extra power, because even the best RPi power supplies (true 3 amp) can't power more than 3-4 USB devices along with the Pi.

    Software:

  10. Here's a really good clean 64GB Arcade-only RPi image. It includes all the descriptions and video previews, so you don't have to run a scraper.
  11. If MK games have crackling audio, go into the DIP switch menu with F2 and turn the volume down to about 60%. Also turn the RPi volume down a bit, to no more than 75%.
  12. Sometimes when using RPi images, the screen resolution is wrong; set it to 1280x1024. You may also want to disable bezels.
  13. Some RPi themes only look good at 16:9 aspect ratios; my favorite 5:4 compatible theme is "Showcase".
  14. If you see a yellow lightning bolt icon in the top right on the Pi, it means it's underpowered and you need to disconnect peripherals, get a powered USB hub for some of them, or upgrade your power supply. Seeing this symbol will cause slowdown in games and can potentially corrupt your MicroSD image entirely.
  15. If you have a yellow FPS or 'frame counter' in the bottom left of your screen, do the following:

    Go into a game, and hit Select/Coin + X. This will bring up a special Retroarch menu. Go to Settings -> Onscreen Display -> Onscreen Notifications -> Display Frame Count -> OFF. Hit B to go back to the Settings menu, then go to Configuration and make sure Save Configuration on Exit is ON. You may have to do this for every system you're emulating, because it seems to only apply to whichever emulator you have running when you change the setting.

    None of this is nearly as complicated as it might sound. I was just trying to be thorough and save you a ton of time and money. Hope this helps!

    Here's a video of my modded cab:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8lNARvbiKA
u/Yatkuu · 6 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Here's what I used:

Buttons/joystick kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGX76HT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e3u4DbNFYM9PT
Video adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVMWPZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B4u4DbC4ARRDN
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u6u4Db97MWE57
Pi 3b case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07349HT26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v5u4Db1FS3T1H
Audio amp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C1Q1FPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.6u4DbW8KHPC5
Adhesive Velcro (to mount the various items): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKQUS4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4.u4DbNJGANFX
1'1/8 Spade bit:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Daredevil-1-1-8-in-x-6-in-Spade-Bit-DSB1015/203274560

General thoughts on the modding process... I had never done something like this, never used a raspberry pi either. I followed ETA's tutorial, browsed this forum for info and everything went smoothly. I encountered only 2 minor difficulties.
The button/joystick kit had 1 joystick wire that was faulty and thus was impossible to tell from looking at it.. After mounting and connecting everything the stick would not register 1 direction. Thinking the stock was at fault I ended up ordering a second kit. It took some tinkering to eventually narrowing it down to the wire! Drilling the 2 extra holes was rather straightforward but I did not think of how the wires would reach the buttons! I ended up drilling 2 small holes in the bottom of the plastic cover - not a super neat job but it's all hidden anyway.
Bottom line, it's relatively simple but I think any DIY project can have unexpected difficulties.. so be prepared.

Tips for anyone who wants to give this a try.. .
Is it easy? I would say yes. The components are plug and play so it's essentially Ikea furniture mounting level. But.. it does require to do things you likely have never done before so take your time and don't rush. The drilling part does require some minimal manual skills. I wouldn't try drilling through the main board... in particular if your equipment is some lightweight stuff. That main board holding the controls is rather thick, and you would risk damaging the artwork if you mess up. Cutting through the Plexi also seems rather challenging.
Cutting through the thin board placed under the controls however is simple.
One advice, if you plan to put back the black plastic cover that protects the underside of the controls, you need to keep that in mind when you decide to position your extra buttons. If you place them too high, you won't have enough clearance for the hidden part of the buttons due to the presence of the plastic cover. So, either position these lower (as I did) or plan not to use the cover.. it might be possible to cut through the black plastic cover but that sounds like a lot of trouble if you ask me..
Side note, I painted the back panel in black because the back of the cab is a little visible in my setup... It looks pretty good.

The cost...
Well, let's be honest, this is not a cheap project. Sure, if you scored a 75$ cab you're off to a good start but to me the look factor was essential. I personally think the Marvel cab is the best looking one currently available in the A1up lineup for a 2 player setup.
So, 250$ for the cab at Walmart. The Pi, the case, video adapter, SD card... Roughly 200$
Total.. 450$

Conclusion...
I absolutely love this thing... But not for the reasons I initially thought. The gaming part ends up being less important for me than the look. I have it setup in my game room (got a pool table and a second cab) and I find myself just turning the cabs on for the mood more than to play with them. Also, the modded cab with its led buttons looks just gorgeous.

That's it, happy modding everyone!

u/kayroice · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

First off, great job with the conversion, I'm looking to do the same. If you don't mind sharing I've got a couple questions for you.

What speakers did you end up getting? I'm interested in setting up stereo audio as well, but don't know much about the audio side of things. I ordered the Kinter MA170+, did you get the Kinter MA170? They both looked pretty similar, I only went with the MA170+ because it had slightly better reviews.

Which LCD controller board did you get? I ordered this board, but it looks like it might be shipping from China as the delivery window is basically the entire month of November. I'm thinking of cancelling and going with something else to speed up delivery (maybe one of the boards on ebay as they specify where delivery occurs from).

Last question, why the 3M laminate? Was this in reaction to observed wearing on the control panel? Or was this a precautionary measure to make sure the panel stays in good shape over time?

Thanks, and again, great job, I like the coin/player buttons!

u/Turn00 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

This page has everything you would need. Not all of it, just pick the parts you want. I recommend changing out the buttons and joysticks, the ones that come with the cab are not the best, and honestly, who doesn't want fake chrome plated LED light up buttons?! It's also one of the most fun and satisfying parts. The first time you turn it on and it all lights up is golden.

https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AFKYVIUEEUBRADJJRYSJUSZORRXQ/3I55RC3I9N013

I agree with the others. Do a little research. I followed ETAPrime's video. The only difference is I am using computer speakers right now. Everything is pretty straight forward, except for the LCD controller board. Make sure to enter your monitor part number, found on a huge sticker on the back, into amazon to make sure you are buying the correct one for your monitor.

The only other thing i don't see on that page is a Flirc case for a Pi 3B+. Really nice case.

https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=asc_df_B07349HT26/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807187084&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5635420979342911607&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019691&hvtargid=pla-440595737920&psc=1

Have Fun!

u/L10ydchristmas1 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Thank you for the comments. The second one shows the installation of a potentiometer using one of the speaker leads, which seems to be a good way to externally mount the Pandora Box 6 volume control (instead of having to open the cabinet to adjust the wheel on the actual device). However, I think the leads to the potentiometer would need to be extended to allow it to cleanly mount to the outside of the cabinet.

The first video shows a solution designed to work with something more customizable, like a Raspberry Pi. I just like how professional it looks. The downside is that you have to drill the holes perfectly since at least two of the holes won't be covered by any trim (the amp controls go right through the holes).

The fact that the speaker and power switch can connect directly to the Pandora's Box were big pluses for me. However, from what I read, it seems like different games have different volume levels so I do think having an external volume control is a good idea. The more I read, the more I think I may go with a Raspberry Pi according to ETA Prime's tutorial, deal with the script edits necessary to get the power button to work semi-correctly (seems to just allow the RP to shut down but the amp stays on) and use some of the ideas from the first video I posted. It just seems to allow for the cleanest design with most flexibility going forward.

I guess the ideal solution would be Raspberry Pi + a cheap amp that has a clean externally mounted volume control. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/d/Car-Audio-Video-Remote-Controls/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550113401&sr=8-3&keywords=amp+volume+control ?

u/Crambles_ · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Ok so, I did this with one of the new Marvel cabs. I haven't seen the older generations up close but I think that they had different volume buttons. Instead of a three state switch, the one on the Marvel cab is centered and you press and hold left to reduce volume or press and hold right to increase volume. I think that may be the big difference here.

As for wiring, I did exactly what your image says to do except swapped the positive and negative. The volume worked backwards so I had to reverse them.

As for the lcd contoller board I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If the generational difference is an issue, you may be able to buy just the volume button from a newer cab from someone on here or maybe even from Arcade1Up directly and pop it in yours.

Best of luck!

u/darkieB · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

sweet dude you convinced me. thanks so much for your info, just want to get everything straight before i blow a bunch more money.

ok i think this is the right video board, is it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N4FL014/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=A1D3XK588INFI6&psc=1

also an sd card and ac adapter for the odroid.

was also planning on getting new buttons and joysticks and using 2 usb controllers. is this the preferred method or using that IDE wire harness better way to go?

also, this odroid good or is there a better one?

https://www.amazon.com/ODROID-XU4-Single-Board-Computer-Gigabit/dp/B0163GEA64/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541774675&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=odroid+xu4&dpPl=1&dpID=51GIGaNDk1L&ref=plSrch

u/Stauff · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

They're listed on Amazon but are currently unavailable, probably to replenish stock. I got mine from the initial offering before the amazon store opened and it was $60. Definitely worth it! Makes a huge difference. It's super easy to install and no drilling or additional hardware is needed. The kit comes with everything you need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC?ref=myi_title_dp

u/RWTD_Burn · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I purchased a set of 2 pound springs and a set of 4 pound springs for the controls and installed one of each so I could directly compare them. Both are a massive upgrade over the factory springs making the joysticks feel far more substantial. Combined with an 8 way gate, special moves were easier to pull off consistently with both the 2 and 4 pound spring. One wasn’t really Bette than the other, but bother we’re better than the factory spring.

After playing with both I found that I liked the 4 pound spring slightly better. The 2 pound spring felt good but I’m concerned that it would get a little too loose as they break in. The 4 pound spring felt like the arcades I remember. The one down side to the 4 pound spring is that the cab itself would shift around more in the riser, which means I may now need to actually use the screws to lock it in place. I was hoping not to do that as I don’t want to put holes in the artwork but it’s a small price to pay for a more accurate arcade experience.

End result, you can’t go wrong with either the 2 pound or 4 pound spring. Combined with an 8 way gate its an inexpensive way to to make your MK2 cabinet feel much closer to the original arcade.

Edit: Adding links to purchase


2 pound
https://www.focusattack.com/2lb-tension-spring-for-sanwa-jlf/

4 pound
https://www.focusattack.com/4lb-tension-spring-for-sanwa-jlf/

ANWA GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor gate
https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B06VVG936T/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+way+gates&qid=1565655151&s=gateway&sr=8-6

u/yazzer6 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

I bought this kit.
Arcade Buttons EG STARTS 1 Player... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2X88QP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Joystick works great for classic games that don't requires complex moves like a fighting game. It is very clicky, but maybe that's normal. When I mod my MK cab I might buy a true Sanwa joystick.

Note: the buttons have a bit different feel. They are not clicky since the switch is built in. A bit like keys on a keyboard. They work fine.

u/06512 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Super, thank you also for confirming the speaker is a 8 ohm 3 watt.

For an L-Pad I am looking at this: https://www.ebay.com/p/Eminence-Overspx-lpad-L-pad-Assembly-Kit/1500346869

Basically I like the fact it is more flush mount. Now to find some really nice 4 ohm speakers... Maybe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/onthefrontlinegaming · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Right now I just have a Logitech G29, but may upgrade in the future. The cockpit is Openwheeler

I absolutely love having the cockpit where I can just sit down and play and not worry about setting stuff up every time

u/JDFanning · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

For Asteroids machine if you are not modding it and plan to play much Tempest or Major Havok then The GRS spinner is one ( though at $49 it does increase the cost of the cab - but worth it if you enjoy those games ! ) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC ( currently out of stock but keep checking back and usually restocks in a few weeks) - another recent option for replacement is from A1U store for $18.50 + $12 shipping - but no one has tried it yet so not sure how it performs and for the price difference the GRS one seems a better option since it is aluminum rather than plastic ! ( https://arcade1up.com/collections/spinners/products/asteroids-spinner )

u/rks1789 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

I just did this, but didn't feel like futzing with cutting powersupply wires.. I used this:

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I soldered pins to the 5v output pins of the powerblock and attached them to the relay, using the same wires suggested above. Make sure you wire positive and negative right.

It has an always on(powerblock), two typically off (amp and screen) and one typically on, not used by me.

The power cord is super short, so extend or replace, it uses a standard cord like computers use...

u/V3n0m77 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

for tempest- try this spinner,: https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B07P5WJ7BC it works great and is easy to install.. I never tried Centipede cabinet, hope you can get a replacement on warranty if its wonky

u/wandrinstar78 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Here is the controller that you use to convert the monitor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FL014/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mwNSBb40YM348

Here are the usb boards that I used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FZ6QVWO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3yNSBb8KZX5J4

Here is the card with 40-pin header that I used to break out the ribbon cable from the control panel. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010VTVVHA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The best part about not hacking the control panel internals is that you can restore it to stock if you ever decide that you want fewer games. I also have heard rumors that they are planning on selling parts so you could be lucky enough to have interchangeable control panels with the ribbon cable setup.

u/stazna01 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Thanks so much. I did some research and found that the Pi doesn't draw enough power to trip some of these strips (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=150529.0) but I then found a IoT Relay (https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/) which can start up and shut down by using the gpio positive and ground headers. I would never have found this if you wouldn't have pushed me in that direction, so thanks again!

u/dkseid · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Thank you everyone. It's originally an asteroids cab so it was an adventure painting over the original graphics. I use the LCD controller with remote on my builds combined with IOT relay connected to its usb port to power on the MVS MV-1C when I power on the LCD. The buttons, control panel, MVS MV-1C, video converter & jamma harness all came from DIY Retro Arcade. Graphic vinyls from etsy and ebay. Bezel sticker if from Samurai Showdown MVS Kit.

u/asindragon · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I bought this to do volume control PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Iy0ZBbXAAZ5JG I actually attached it to the back so my kids wouldn't mess with the volume but it's great i turned it to the max then adjusted the amp to a level I thought was the threshold of loudness.

u/cursedxistence · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Honestly I think you'd be better off getting one of the steering wheel and pedal units, more specifically one with steering wheel with paddles (could be used as high/low for older games) clutch, brake, gas pedals (would work for all games), and then one with the gear shifter (would work for more modern/complex driving games). The idea of making your own is awesome, but if you're going to go out of your way to make a racing cabinet you might as well make it for as many games as possible. Hell if you really wanted to get crazy you could even mount something like this to the front of your cab and turn it into a true cockpit racer.....and you could always switch it over to a flight, etc. cab by swapping out the controls as well. https://www.amazon.com/Openwheeler-Logitech-Thrustmaster-controllers-Xbox-One/dp/B01CGVG0N6?th=1

u/USB3pt0 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Four zero-delay usb encoders.

A 4:3 1280x960 LCD controller board

It's got stereo speakers which I intend to use, changing that is personal preference.

I'm in the process of modding my Marvel cab, waiting for the LCD controller to get here from China. 9 days till the lower limit of the ship time...

I've tested the zero-delay encoders with a Hori Hayabusa joystick and Hori Hayabusa buttons I pulled out of my fightstick when I replaced them with a Sanwa stick and Paradise Cherry MX switch buttons. Once all the parts are in I'll be posting my build when it's set up.

u/nsiraser · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

question, would any speaker work with the machine or is there some specific keywords I need to look for? I bought this LCD controller (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and this amp (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1Q1FPT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I would like to add another speaker so I can get some sort of dual speaker, do I also just plug the additional speaker wire running from amp to the LCD board? I don't have my board yet so I can't tell if there's 2 hole for audio. thanks.

u/dftonz2 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Thanks. Nice upgrade for about $10. Here’s some more pics.


cup holdies


I would’ve liked to mount them a little further back and higher but that would be right in the middle of the artwork.


Link to the ones I bought.


The same ones are sold by a few companies under a few names but WM seemed the cheapest. Also comes in multiples colors!


Heres the same one at Amazon.

u/karmakandra · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

If you decide to go further down the rabbit hole of modding/upgrading your cabs, diyretroarcade is another good resource. Also Glenn from Glenn’s Retro Show on YouTube has a new direct replacement trackball upgrade for Centipede that should be really nice. trackball

u/Ndrethma · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Thanks...I’m going to try it again! Can you share the lcd controller board you used? Or a link to it? I feel like mine may not be correct...I have this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZVMWPZP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/3wooki3 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/

Thanks for the link! It isn't showing up here but I grabbed it from your comment history. Thank you!

u/Lazyfoo41 · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Led Strip Lights 6.56ft for 40-60in TV, PANGTON VILLA USB LED TV Backlight Kit with Remote - 16 Color Changing 5050 LEDs Bias Lighting for HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IuBWDbR9TX0FH


These from amazon! I put them behind each one of them and just hit the strobe setting and it looks awesome. Added more flare

u/jimmt42 · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Some put it on the front of the cab below the control deck. You will have to find a way to mount it so it stays. I put a shelf in mine. Doing that you could easily set it on the shelf as a way to mount it.

Another option is to do the volume mod and use the existing volume control to do mute/low/high (https://github.com/dmanlfc/arcade1up/tree/master/Raspberry%20Pi) *I'm posting how to do this with ODROID/Retro Arena soon.

Finally, what I'm doing is I ordered this: PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cHdYCbJ5BCF0J and either going to replace the volume switch with this or put it under the control deck.

Hope this helps :)

u/csinlasath · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Wow. That amazon reseller has it on a high markup for that Odroid XU4. I would get that same one purchased from AmeriDroid.com

Here is a link to the stuff I used:

EG Starts Classic Arcade Contest DIY Retropie Cabinet Kits USB Encoder to Joystick PC Games + Chrome Plating LED Illuminated Push Button 1 & 2 Player Coin Buttons Compatible Mame Raspberry Pi Game Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719HTFMT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qiA5BbEEJ3YFN

Kinter MA170 12V 2 Channel Mini Digital Audio Power Amplifier for Car or Mp3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZiA5Bb633VC0N

HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD Controller Board For HSD190MEN4 M170EN06 17" 19" 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pins LCD Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pjA5BbFWECPPY

Of course, don’t forget your cables and power adapters.

u/TimAllenAMA · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Just picked up a Space Invaders on $74 clearance. I want to mod it to run games off a compact PC. Am I understanding correctly that I would want to get one of these to interface a different controller board (I was thinking of the Street Fighter one) with a screen? I’m planning on installing a regular monitor in it. Also, are all A1U controllers one standard size? Will any of them fit in this cabinet?

u/Rbgordon00 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

The answer is yes player 1 joystick, player 2 joystick and the flight stick. I have the spinner ( Arcade Spinner for Arcade1Up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_kI5WDbZ4W72RM) I was going to use a preinstalled trackball from 99 Lives Arcade ( ) I am getting a control Pannel from them. and I have not purchased the flight stick yet (suggestions welcomed)

The way you described it, will I be able to use the flight stick track ball and spinner (and later a light gun) for both player 1 and player 2 ?

u/gated73 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Replacing the trackball isn't too difficult.

This is what you seek:

ThunderStick LED Arcade trackball (TS-UTB01) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T1FQFRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hJwxDbZHZ1VW4

Edit: it's not any bigger than the stock, but it tracks a lot better.

u/drazi_p · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

EG STARTS 2 Player Arcade Games DIY Kit Parts 2 Ellipse Oval Joystick Handles + 20 LED lit Arcade Buttons (Mixed Color Kit) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QMM4P4H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rgsNDbNWSSZAV


VSDISPLAY Street Fighter Arcade 1UP Modification LCD M170ETN01 1 M170ETN01.3 M190ETN01.0 G190ETN01.0 HDMI VGA DVI Audio Controlller Kit, Fit 17" 19" 1280x1024 6Pin LED Backlight 30Pin LVDS LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCQCQH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.hsNDbF3N0HR5

u/Mattgx082 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Yeah I did too and thought by detail and model number it would work...however a Reddit user on here superskaith I believe did his and pointed out his monitor number ended in 06 instead of 11. I looked at the reviews and sure enough users with my board ending in 11 are using the one for it ending in 06. I scrolled down and it said compatible with my number as well, with a lot of mk2 machines done with glowing reviews. So I ordered the one he showed me and did my research and should be the right one coming Thursday. If it doesn't work I'm going with the 29.99 Dell monitor to replace and getting a dvi to hdmi converter. Any money I've lost on this is just shipping. So at least there's that and no big loss on my part. It will work! Lol

New one coming in

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR/

u/Cryteckpc · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I found this one on Amazon and it works. I I modded my marvel cabinet
HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/Kaneda1775 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

This is the one that I got off Amazon and it worked out of the box. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4FL014/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm sure there are bound to be lemons out there though.

u/HistorianCM · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

This one has been reported to work with all Arcade1Up monitors HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD Controller Board For HSD190MEN4 M170EN06 17" 19" 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pins LCD Panel however if it doesn’t work it is a Prime item with free retruns.

u/andypandyfosho · 5 pointsr/Arcade1Up

​

FYI: This is the steps I did for my already moded cabinet with USB encoders. I ended up purchasing two of these joysticks. They connect with 5pin cables. Keep in mind that it comes with a 4 way gate (square movement) but can be adjusted to 8 way gate (octagon movement) if you purchase the octagonal plate. I prefer 4 way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BIC9QE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

Step 1: Remove the stock joysticks by unscrewing the joysticks and ball tops / washers.

Step 2: Unplug the joystick from the encoder board.

Step 3: Place and center the new Sanwa joysticks (view from the front).

Step 4: Mark your holes and drill small pilot holes for your screws.

Step 5: Once they are screwed in, I connected the 5pin cable to the new joysticks and plugged them into the USB encoders that I have.

​

​

u/oghowie · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

SANWA JLF-TP-8YT-SK OEM Red Ball Top Handle Arcade Joystick 4 & 8 Way Adjustable (Mad Catz SF4 Tournament Joystick Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BIC9QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kRamDbF5E8NQV

I did not use the Sanwa bracket since I didn't want to drill new holes. I used the one that was already there and mounted the new Sanwa on it.

u/TheOneKhan · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Both LCD controllers I purchased had my monitor number (m170etnt01 1) listed, as well as having people in the reviews talking about having the same monitor.

Here's the Controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JCQCQH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

u/arc1uprulez · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

I ordered this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JCQCQH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 from Amazon. I should have it by the end of the week. Before purchasing, I confirmed with the seller that it will be compatible with the M170ETN01.1 (the model # of the LCD panel in the Arcade1up). I'll post back once I get it working.

u/SScorpio · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

This is the spinner to get: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5WJ7BC/ Though they are $50 which seems like a lot when you got your cabinet for $75.

They are out of stock, but back ordered ones have started shipping so hopefully they come back in stock soon.

u/brij15 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Arcade Buttons EG STARTS 1 Player DIY Kit Joystick 5V LED Arcade Button for Arcade Stick PC Games Mame Raspberry pi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2X88QP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.WPYDbH6Q07CP

I think I'm going to go with these and do a 1 player (2 player alternating) setup.

u/Sp4ceTruck3r · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD Controller Board For HSD190MEN4 M170EN06 17" 19" 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pins LCD Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aYB2CbMDZ502G

I grabbed mine from an American Amazon seller who ships to Canada.

u/dexfx69 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

The stock "V2" A1U spinner isn't compatible with the interface board (won't output via it's usb port) according to the interface board amazon page:
https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ThunderStick&qid=1563344608&s=gateway&sr=8-5

u/TheLordRuler · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

There is a proper working controller board for the new screens available on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVMWPZP

It has the proper resolution and everything specifically flashed for the Gen 3 displays.

Edit: I should mention that the only difference from this and some of the older boards is the software flashed to the board. This one does not have the cutoff issue as the older boards do.

u/Lounger_Neebles · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Ahhhhh I thought you meant the wall-wart to board connection. My bad. Yeah looks like you got one not compatible with the Arcade1up monitor. They are not one unit fits all u fortunately.

This is the one that I bought for mine.

LCD Board

u/DixeeNormouss · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

VSDISPLAY HDMI VGA DVI Audio LCD Driver Board for 17" 19" 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pin LCD Panel M170EG01 and so on, Fit for Arcade1Up Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FL014/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2WcIDbYSGSWKJ

u/joshparr · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

I bought both of these and both worked

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4FL014

With that said, I'd go with the second one as it's Prime eligible and in the states. The first one have to wait for it to come in from China.

u/medic7000 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

So is this connector compatible with arcade1up? VSDISPLAY HDMI VGA DVI Audio LCD Driver Board for 17" 19" M170EG01 LM190E02 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pin LCD Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FL014/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4XLZBbRD5A90T

u/wonderwicemike · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

To prep you for the potential of it not working...

VSDISPLAY HDMI VGA DVI Audio LCD Driver Board For 17" 19" M170EG01 LM190E02 1280x1024 4CCFL 40Pin LCD Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FL014/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7fqWBbK5VAYMV

u/Gatzby143 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

It’s one from the eta prime video. It actually did display correctly once and then went to the orange/red screen and then the black backlit screen.
lcd board

u/mpalpha · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

I used these speakers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TY3ZM1 and they plug directly into this LCD controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR for passthru hdmi audio without any external amp

u/Brunobi02 · 5 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I used this: Led Strip Lights 6.56ft for 40-60in TV, PANGTON VILLA USB LED TV Backlight Kit with Remote - 16 Color Changing 5050 LEDs Bias Lighting for HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jVw1DbCJZ87RM

u/Nick1W · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Forgive me for repeating anything you may already know.

For the buttons and joystick, you need a USB encoder. This or similar:

https://www.amazon.com/EG-STARTS-Encoder-Controller-Joystick/dp/B01L8K21CK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=arcade+usb+encoder&qid=1574973074&sr=8-5

Connect the buttons and joystick to the encoder, connect the encoder to the pi through USB. When you set up retropie, you will be prompted to assign each button for the pi interface.

For the GRS spinner and trackball, you will also need the GRS "12-in1 board".

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=grs+12-in-1&qid=1574973218&sr=8-2

The GRS spinner and trackball are both designed to plug directly into the stock Arcade1Up hardware. There is no USB connection on those devices. The 12-in-1 board gives you that USB connection. Plug the Spinner into the "P1" port on the 12-in-1 board. Plug the Trackball into the "P2 port". Use the micro USB port on the board to connect to a USB port on the pi.

The pi will recognize the spinner and trackball as a mouse - both devices will be interpreted as the same mouse input. But, that should already be set up to control left/right/up/down movements in any emulator. (Left/right only for the spinner, of course). So, you can jump right into centipede, or tempest or whatever you're using them for.

You may need to adjust the sensitivity of the trackball and/or spinner in each game individually until you get the right performance. There are threads about that on this sub. Here's one:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Arcade1Up/comments/cj1m4b/share_your_trackball_speed_settings_in_retropie/

In that thread, you can ignore where it says to change the speed. As is clarified later in the thread, the speed settings don't matter - only sensitivity.

u/A_Seal_Beater · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Wrong converter. You should be using this one:

VSDISPLAY HDMI VGA DVI Audio LCD Driver Board for 17" 19" M170EG01 LM190E02 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pin LCD Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FL014/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n27ZBbF31S4J3

u/kepling5001 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

This is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4FL014/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

There have similar for a bit cheaper (~$5 less) on ebay, but they ship from China and I'm impatient.

u/thundermoo5e · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Easyget 4 Pcs/Lot 5V LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5Y8E2Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These did the trick for me. No complaints

u/toxicshlock · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

I had 2 fraud threat / cancel order situtations from unshipped products on Ebay, and was my very first bad ebay seller experience so I can not complain too much - got my funds back in both cases. So i focused only on amazon from that point for these boards and found this worked right out of the box - I think it may be exact same from ETA Primes stellar tut. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4FL014/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1