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http://m.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92019/Real-world-reflashing-Cutting-through-the-smoke-and-mirrors

Not for a computer. I guess you could technically you could hack up a computer power supply but they won't output enough current and the wire insulation would make a nice fire. You need a power supply that can provide a stable well-rectified voltage and provide enough current to keep the modules alive. Since you're asking the question- you'll need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GFQMHI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hf.dBbAEW40A1

That is the cheapest charger I could find. I've only used it a few times so I can't speak to the durability or reliability of it. You can make one but you'll need something that has excellent rectification, extremely fast voltage regulation, and will supply 50-70 amps depending on your model. For the cost, it's not worth your time unless you have tons of it.

You'll also need a j2534 programmer. You can get something from vxdiag. They're a pain to work with but gets the job done for a tenth of the price. Your other options are tried and true pass through programmers for $1000-2000 or clones off alibaba.

You'll also need a subscription. I can't remember if you have an FCA or GM car but a one day subscription is $25 and $40 respectively.

You'll also have to find software if mopar or FCA doesn't provide it, which is never easy and usually expensive.

You also have the option of hand held diagnostic tablets like certain verus models but they're generally all $1000+ (used) and some you have to buy expansions to program certain vehicles.

Okay, I've gone through this before. Luckily I had access to a shop. The 1/2" snapon impact couldn't get it, but the 3/4 did. You probably don't have a 3/4, so here are some ideas.

1. • As others have said, the breaker bar bump start trick. You'll want to be careful holding the socket on the bolt in case it pops off. Heat is definitely your friend. Get that bitch orange hot if the starter bump trick doesn't work, then try the starter bump trick again when it's hot. I did this trick on an accord a week ago with no heat and it went perfectly well with a Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar and a deep well impact socket.
     
     2 - There's a special Honda crank pulley tool. Use this with lots of cheater bars.
     https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648796-Cranks-Pulley-Removal/dp/B0000TMLWQ
     
     3 - Find a shop and tell them you just want the bolt broken loose. They might hook you up for free or charge you only a little bit of labor if they have better tools. If they get it loose, just have them snug it back in. The engine rotates clockwise so the bolt can't loosen, it'll only get tighter on your way home, no worries about it coming out.
     
     Good luck.

You can probably get them out pretty easy with a left handed drill bit. These Irwin bits are pretty baller. Just use a self centering punch or a small pointy punch and mark the center, then start with the smallest or second smallest one.

The idea is that the bit will catch the bolt and spin it out.

They also make this set that has spiral flute extractors, just in case the left handed bit doesn't catch.

You should use a torque wrench if you're not (I've totes broken bolts when torquing to spec before, so no hate if you are), a small 3/8" wrench that does inch lbs. Those bolts are probably supposed to be between 80 in lbs and 110 in lbs. Torque wrench will a) ensure you're not over-torquing and breaking bolts, and b) it's even all the way around, so you're not pinching the gasket weird in some spot.

Amps use the RCA wires for the sound signal so you just need an amp and a sub.

Like the other guy mentioned, the blue is just a 12v signal. When the head unit turns on it just sends 12 volts and the amp turns on.

You'll need a short amount same gauge wire as the red wire to ground the amp to the chassis. The electricity needs some way to get back to the battery. I bet if you look around under the carpet to the side you'll find the ground wire bolted somewhere to the metal under the carpet or along the side.

Like /u/cancerous_anus said, definitely check along the red power wire, probably under the hood, for a fuse. If not most definitely put one in. Get something like this. They use the old style glass fuse.

At the auto parts store there will be like 5 different brands of stuff called “Scratch Remover” like this

Formula 1 Scratch Out - Scratch Remover for All Auto Paint Finishes - 7 oz. Liquid Wax, 615011 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060HVFHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3UOzDbM1CWM55

I have this one but I’m sure they are all the same. Buy whichever one is on sale this month. It really does work! I scraped up the side of my car driving against a bush that had some sharp branches and was able to restore it 99%. You would only tell if you looked really close with a magnifying glass

Yeah, I don't mind. As long as I remove the wheel I'm happy.

Also ordered this

Irwin Industrial Tool 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Extractor Set, 25-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mRM5AbD146PGM

should be arrive tomorrow as well. Let you guys know the results.

This is probably the most basic of basic scanners, it will allow you to read and clear codes but wont provide any further diagnostics, you can scan the code which will usually start with a P0*** and then you can research the code via internet about the cause and possible solution. Most codes are very vague on very big systems. Also take with a grain of salt that the code found could may say one thing, but be caused by something else seemingly not related to the code. Its a starting point for diagnostics.

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1486661619&sr=8-8&keywords=OBD+II+scanner

That's a little overkill for a single repair - they might sell an 'oversize drain plug' for your size with self-tapping threads, like this (check your specific thread size/pitch) https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65217-AutoGrade-Oversize-Drain/dp/B000COCX0E/

It's this thing here: https://www.amazon.ca/Unwired-Technology-Wireless-FM-Transmitter/dp/B000F3H4U6

Looks like that wire goes to a splitter box to pull both power and an RCA input.

Why not one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/3M-03584-Professional-Rubberized-Undercoating/dp/B002H9CMCQ

You could also go with a model engine just ti get the idea of how things work. Saves space and is quite cheap. Haynes Build Your Own Internal Combustion Engine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006H4JEQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8hVVDbSHC4PQ3

It is.

For 150 a pop you can get bilstiens which will outlast the car. Almost every auto parts store rents spring compression tools, thereby preventing you from buying the whole shebang and overspending. Make sure to get strut mounts too as they do not last for more than one set of shocks. [Here] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGkk6Vrs1uo) is a good video. These are KYB's and are well known to be decent, you could do all 4 corners for about $200.

I'm not at all a professional. I've done maybe 4 suspension overhauls. First one I used Sachs and was surprised at how quickly they faded. It made me think that upgrading the suspension was a waste of time (and an expensive waste of time). The second time I used Koni's and the third and fourth were both Bilstien. If you intend to keep the car for more than two years, spend the money. Do all four corners at once and replace all bushings at the same time. Just my humble opinion.

Thanks for the info!

I'm going to try to fix it with new parts since they're relatively inexpensive.

It seems like these might be them, but I'll go double they look the same as the current parts the car -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C81YEG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C81HMK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

And as per your last sentences, unscrew the PCV valve and shake it, if no rattle noise then replace it?

I have this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WQQ90A

the problem is I have to use an extension bar because of access, I think it reduces the power.

You will either need to buy or rent a pressure tester similar to this
Stant 12270 30 Pound Cooling System and Pressure Cap Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRGWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_32KlDbW0PBJAN