Top products from r/BeardedDragons

We found 205 product mentions on r/BeardedDragons. We ranked the 312 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/BeardedDragons:

u/ThePienosaur · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

That's very exciting! The diet the previous owner was feeding isn't great, kale and peppers are a good supplement but collard/mustard greens and squash are good staple veggies, and mealworms have a tough shell so they're only appropriate as treats. This isn't a big enough problem that it would effect your decision of course, I just wanted to let you know.

Heat lamps produce heat and bright light that mimic the sun. They produce the heat that's so important to reptiles, and are great for diurnal reptiles because they simulate the situations where they would be getting heat (basking.)

A UVB light provides the other half of the equation, the uvb and UVA radiation that help diurnal reptiles metabolize calcium and avoid problems like metabolic bone disease.

Basically diurnal reptiles like bearded dragons need heat to digest food and UVB/UVA light to metabolize calcium. These can come in the same bulb (mercury vapor bulbs) or different bulbs (one for heat and one for UVB/UVA.) As a side note, most bulbs actually produce UVA regardless of whether or not they're a UVB bulb.

As for the specific products you want:

Proper UVB light is essential. The best and only guaranteed good UVB lights are either Mercury vapor bulbs (heat and UVB combined) or fluorescent tubes. Compact bulbs are bad and can damage eyes. Tubes are used much more often and are cheaper and better for beardies. You'll want either a reptisun 10.0 or Arcadia 12% tube because they're the best and most trusted brands, roughly 2/3 the length of the enclosure. They come in two sizes, t5 and t8, t5 is newer, stronger, and better. It gives you more options for where to place it and is lasts 12 months instead of 6 so it's cheaper. Basically, you want either a reptisun 10.0 t5 or Arcadia 12% t5. Make sure to research your bulb and fixture (t5 vs t8, under or over screen, etc.) to determine exactly how far away from the basking spot it should be.

Heat lamp fixtures are easy to find, but for uvb it's a bit tougher. This is what I use for my 22" t5:

Edit: I would recommend a vet checkup so you can ensure your new friend is healthy. Calci-worms are great, so are dubias, crickets, and silkworms. Remember that she should be eating mostly veggies now though.

u/UFO64 · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

> Regarding the heat mat, this is something that we have underneath the bottom glass of his viv, with a layer of felt on top of the glass so he doesn’t have direct contact with any of the heat elements.

Well, looks like I've got egg on my face then! Okay, way less concerning but!

>We live in the north of England, do you think it would be fine to take away the heat mat during the night and him have no heat source, or could you suggest an alternative?

Heat matters, and you are on the right course with paying attention for nighttime heating matters! If your house drops under 19C at any time, then supplemental heat is a requirement! 19C isn't some magical "they will die" number, but it gives them a nice healthy minimum safe range, below which we can have problems!

The issue then, comes with how we give them this heat. Bearded Dragons are hard wired little lovable scalebabies. They do things because they are programmed to. For instance, light == warmth to them. If they are cold, they will go to sources of light (thus why heat lamps are great! And making sure your UV tube runs along next to it gets you double the benefit!). Likewise, if they are hot, they will avoid light, and go down. They will seek out the lowest point they can, to beat the heat.

See how that might be a problem? If the primary source of heat at night is under his tank, his brain doesn't understand how to cope and he will drive himself to the least comfortable place he can. Woops!!

What you really want to offer to keep him over 19C at night is something like this. Ceramic Heat Emitters screw into a normal light socket, so you can treat it just like your already existing heat lamp. The plus here, is that they produce zero visible light. This means that it's fine to use at night, as it wont disrupt their sleep!

It's not a replacement for your basking lamp (once again, that light helps drive good behavior and lets him become comfortable!). But it's an awesome addition to a vivarium when your house cannot provide safe temperatures on it's own!

Buy one, get yourself a fixture to mount it around the middle of his tank to keep everything safe at night, and slap that puppy on a timer! If you are worried about getting things just right, you can over buy the wattage on the bulb, and then use something like this to tune it just perfect for your baby!

Again, Y wish you all the best luck in figuring out what's wrong here. I hope it's some environmental thing that you can identify and correct with this dude! It sucks when we mess up, but it's so nice when we get to fix it!!!

u/UncleGael · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Read the care guide in the sidebar, even if it's overwhelming. Read it all, read it twice, commit it to memory. If you truly care about the well being of the animal then this is going to be your go to guide, while we're always here to answer other questions. Also, you mention only getting one now because you're going to be free for the next dew months. I just want to make sure you understand that you're committing to a 15+ year responsibility here. 15 years if preparing and offering food daily, 15 years of socializing, 15 years of new UVB lights every 6-12 months and heat bulbs more frequently, 15 years of vet visits. If you think you can handle it that's awesome! I just don't want to see the animal end up in the same situation it was already in because you got over eager with your free time. Here are the basic necessities and the best place to buy them:

UVB - Fixture + Bulb

Supplements - Calcium + Multivitamin

Temperature - IR Temp Gun + Ambient Thermometer / Hygrometer

Heat Bulb - Go to Lowes / Home Depot/ Etc... and look for PAR38 Halogen Flood lights. Buy a few different wattage to see which gives you the proper temperature. Direct basking temp (check with IR Gun) should be no 105f - 110f. Once you find the bulb that works you can return the rest and you'll always know which wattage you need in the future.

Food - Superworms are not a staple and should only be fed as treats. Dubia are ideal and can be purchased here. Crickets, BSFL, and other treat worms can be purchased here. Buy online, you will save a lot of money. If the animal is as young as you think then he should be eating 80+ feeder insects every single day.

Substrate - Pick up some slate tile, shelf liner, or contact paper while you're at the hardware store. Do not use a lose substrate or reptile carpet.

u/heckingheckmate · 4 pointsr/BeardedDragons

looks pretty good to me, he may not be moving around because he’s cold, so just be sure you’re around 85 warm end with a basking spot of up to 120 (while they’re still young) and then cool end around 75 and drop the temperatures by ten degrees at night. i always recommend getting a thermometer gun as it tends to be more precise than a dial, and you can tell the temperature of several different locations without multiple dials, the stick on one you’re using is usually pretty inaccurate as it’s telling you the temperature of the glass. this is the thermometer gun i use and it works pretty well, it’s within 1-2°F of the actual temperature, there are certainly more expensive ones but i haven’t had any issue with this one. i always recommend having more hides, at least one on the warm end and one on the cool end, and while the extra food bowls look cool, it’s usually easier to have them out of the enclosure and put them in when you’re putting food in. congrats on your new pal, and i wish the two of you much fun

u/Contact40 · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Everything looks good, but a little feedback.

First with your UVB Light unit, I see that you have selected a double bulb unit. In addition to the bulbs being quite expensive, the beardie doesn't need two of them in their cage. One is perfectly sufficient, so save your money and at least get a single bulb fixture. Also, feel free to use a dedicated fixture if you want, but a standard cheap household fixture like this is just fine. I paid $15 for this at my local store instead of a "reptile" fixture for $60. Edit: I just noticed you're going with a 4ft wide viv, so that may be why you're doing the 2 lamps fixture. If thats the case, disregard my comments about you not needing the second bulb. The standard rule is 2/3rds the length of the viv should be ran with uvb lamps so you may be on track.

Secondly, the 2 temp gauges are okay, but the stick on ones are known to be wildly inaccurate (especially since the thermometer will not be on the beardies basking spot). I don't even have thermometers in my viv, I decided to use this to monitor temps and it has been great. Especially as you move the furniture around the viv getting your setup finalized.

Third, you'll want a humidity gauge in there for sure. As you put food and water and whatnot in the viv, it can raise the humidity too high and cause respiratory infections. In fact they get a lot of their hydration from veggies and fruits so you may want to forego a water dish altogether (they're desert animals, after all). A lot of times they just poop in their water dish anyway.

Fourth, I'm assuming by the double dome fixture you're planning on a ceramic heater. Take a look at the lamp stand I posted in another comment so you can lift the lamps up away from the screen if needed. By the time you put something for him to bask on, he may be 12-14 inches in the air, you don't want the lamps only a few inches away or you may cook your lizard. I only have mine up in the air a couple inches, but it was necessary. When the lamps were resting on the screen his basking spot was up over 120 degrees. I can't tell from the website, but if your viv is not a screened top, the lamp stand may not work and if that's the case, your solution will be to either buy higher/lower wattage bulbs as needed, or maybe a dimmer.

Lastly, don't forget a reptile light timer. Cut corners somewhere to get one, but it will make your life so much easier and your beardie life so much less stressful.

Edit: No upvotes yet after all this typing? Help me out!! 😂😂

u/MelodramaticMe · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

I see you got the paper up! Hopefully that will help. :)

I don't know if that particular fixture has a feature that you need, but if you are just looking for a fixture to use with the 18 inch Reptisun, here are some cheaper options: Home Depot, Amazon, Lowe's.

Thank you for reminding me about the Petco sale! I need to pick up some tanks while it's going on.

Please confirm for me that you are using this calcium supplement, and not this multivitamin in a calcium base.

It's possible that some of Ryuu's issues are due to a vitamin deficiency. This article touches on the subject. In addition to the calcium w/D3 five times per week (a pinch once a day), you should start giving him a multivitamin (as soon as possible). He should get the multivitamin twice a week (a pinch once a day). I recommend Herptivite as it uses a safe form of vitamin A. Petsmart carries it in stores (as least around here).

u/mamaof2boys · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Ditch the infrared bulb. It messes with their sleep. And I would get a timer for your basking lamp and uvb - I got a cheap $5 one that they had at target for Christmas lights but you can find them on Amazon too. For me it's a lot easier having his lights going on and off automatically than having to remember to switch them on and off everyday. What kind of substrate are you using? Do you have a basking rock under the basking lamp? You should and you should also get an infrared thermometer to make sure the basking rock is at the proper temp. I think it's 105-110 for juveniles and 100-105 for adults but I could be off a bit. That part is important though for digestion. What size crickets are you offering? They should be no bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. If your beardie is at least 16" you can also try super worms. My beardie is 8 months old and it took a lot of veggie buying before I found the two leafy greens he likes best - collard and turnip greens. He also hates it if I try to add fruit or veggie toppings he just wants the leaves. He eats more veggies when I just give him leaves. Oh! What kind of substrate are you using? Tile is recommended in here and works really well.

ETA links - thermometer

Timer -

u/shereth78 · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Are the green plants real or fake? If they're real, make sure it's something safe for them to eat in case he's been nibbling on it. Otherwise that's not a bad looking setup. The water dish is probably unnecessary but not likely to hurt anything. You probably want to move the UVB bulb over closer to the basking bulb so he's getting the UVB while basking, at least until you have a chance to replace it with the longer UVB bulb. As for the CHE at night, you really only need that if it's getting below 65 in the room at night.

What's his hotspot temps? It looks like you've provided him a basking area pretty close to the basking lamp so 150 watt might be a bit high. If you don't have one, I recommend getting a gun-style IR thermometer that you can use to take direct readings of his basking spot. If it's too hot or too cold it could also be impacting his appetite.

As for the UVB, you can't go wrong with a Reptisun 10.0. For that size tank you want to get the 22" long tube and an appropriate lamp for it. If you get the T5 instead of the T8 (this refers to the width of the tube) it will be strong enough that you can set it on top of the mesh like you've got the other lights, a T8 you'll have to mount inside the tank. on Amazon or you can usually find at local shops.

How old is the beardie? It's quite possible that relocation stress is to blame for his lack of appetite, though 7 days seems a little excessive. Good that you aren't handling him yet. Keep on offering him food, hopefully he'll come around and start eating! If you've verified temps are where they should be, may want to consider a vet visit soon to rule out health issues if he doesn't start eating soon.

u/Untimely_TARDIS · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

From what I understand you want to feed however much she can eat for 10 minutes. When I fed mine crickets I had a spare 10 gallon tank that I kept them in so I would just stick her in the cricket tank to eat to her hearts delight and then put her back once she stopped eating. Worked out way better than chasing down cricket that she didn't eat. You don't want to leave the bugs in overnight because they will nibble on your beardie while she is asleep.

I recently bought this temp gun to keep track of her basking area. I was pretty sure that the temp was right because she opens her mouth when she basks but the gun gives me more comfort to know the exact temp.

I also bought a separate stand and light fixture to set up in my bedroom so she can run around in my room. There aren't any places she could get stuck in my room and after running around a bit she always comes back to the basking spot in my room.

You don't have to buy the reptile bulbs for a heat lamp, you just want the uvb which you will have with the zilla light. The heat light I use now I bought from Wal-Mart and it heats the tank better than the mercury vapor bulb I had before. They have them at Walmart and probably any feed stores because they are often used to keep chicks warm.

Also you can get an inexpensive light fixture from either home depot or lowes. Clamp Lamp

Also if she is a girl you want to make sure you dust her food with calcium powder. The reptile specific ones are pretty expensive so I bought this at amazon a few years ago and I still have a ton of it.

If you want to keep your crickets hydrated instead of buying those cricket water crystals just buy Non-toxic ones My first bag I bought in 2013 and didnt need to buy a new bag until 2015 and that is because I am raising my own Dubias now.

u/xj2379 · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons
Spike has one of these and loves it! I'll 100% recommend it to anyone and everyone. It also comes in a few other shapes and sizes to fit your needs.

As for falling down....don't worry. Beardies are squishy and bounce back up; their only real defence from predators is to run away so they're made for it. Spike's taken a few jumps off the back of the couch (3-4ft) that have damn near given me a heart attack but she just keeps skittering on like nothing happened. She also dive bombs crickets in her cage which is hilarious to watch :) You getting a new beardie is making me all excited; you're going to have lots of fun, OP!

u/LyricalLinds · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

You can buy a digital thermometer with a probe which will give you cool side temperature, hot side temperature, and humidity all in one. Many people like the accurite brand and I have samshow brand (which id never heard of before but it's working well for me). You can hang it inside the tank on the cool side with a command hook and run the probe along the wall to the hot side where you place it directly on the basking spot. The unit itself will measure the "indoor" temperature on the cool side and the probe will measure the "outdoor" temperature on the hot side and just keep it there. It takes about 45 minutes to get an accurate reading so if you just leave it, you can check the temp at any time.
If you want something more, temperature guns are awesome. I have etekcity brand from Amazon. They'll give you the surface temperature rather than the ambient temperature like a probe does and you'll get a reading in a second! It's particularly handy because you can do scans of different places in seconds where with a probe you'd have to move it and wait 45 minutes. I also use it to measure the temperature of beardie bath water.

Edit: thermometer+hygrometer

Temp gun

There are many good brands but those are the ones I have.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Like the others said, the UVB bulb is extremely important. The Zilla ones aren't considered to be very good. The Repti-sun 10.0 tube light (this kind) is what you should get, assuming you're in the US. Here is a page that explains what lights you need and how to set them up in the cage.

Turning off the light in the middle of the day is not good for him. You can get an infrared thermometer to find the temperature and then adjust your lights to get the correct temps (110F in the basking spot for a juvenile, 105F for an adult). For the heat, you can just use a regular light bulb, just don't get the ones with a weird color coating - get a clear or bright white bulb.

The cage temperature can drop to 65F at night and it will be fine.

If you get a timer power strip, your life will be much easier. :)

Check out the link to the right titled Nutrition Content to find what foods are good for your lizard. The romaine isn't giving him what he needs.

I'd like to emphasize the importance of the UVB - it is a life or death sort of thing. Once you get one, it needs replaced every 6 months. Make sure you get the long tube, not a coil bulb.

Good luck!

u/Disco_Tempo · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

In addition to heat, Bearded Dragons (and many other reptiles) need a bulb which simulates certain different types of sunlight (basically, they need access to the full spectrum of light they'd get from the sun in their natural environment). Ultra-violet B (UVB) is one of these important types of light. Without it, your bearded dragon cannot metabolize calcium in order to grow.

Have you ever heard about how people need sunlight for their bones (namely, to create Vitamin D)? Bearded Dragons are the same way; they need this special type of light in order to create the vitamin which carries calcium into their bones and allows them to grow. Without it, their bodies will eventually start leeching their bones of calcium, and their bones will hollow-out and become porous, a condition known as Metabolic Bone Disease.

At the bare minimum, if price is an issue, I would buy a second lamp hood (~$15 USD) and put in one of these bulbs:

Notice the bulb says 10.0 UVB; this means that about 10% of the light it puts off is going to be the useful kind for your dragon. You don't want to go any less than this.

In addition, you want to make sure that the Bearded Dragon's basking spot is at least 105-110F (41-43 C). You can get infrared temperature guns, or thermometers with probes that you can set in the basking spot. And buy a powdered supplement which contains both calcium and vitamin D3, like this:

At this stage, about 80% of your bearded dragon's diet should be insects, powdered liberally with the calcium+D3 supplement at every meal (3 times/day). If you keep things going the way you are, your animal could very easily die from lack of nutrients/exposure to the correct spectrum of light.

Keep in mind, Bearded Dragons are adapted to live in the hot Australian Outback, very near to the equator. If you don't live in a similar environment, you need to do your best to recreate it in your home--that means high temperatures (with your basking bulb), and the correct ultraviolet light (UVB 10.0).

Let me know if you have any more questions.

u/InsidiousToilet · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Thanks! I've been checking on him a lot, but not going into the enclosure, and he's more colorful now and less dark. The stress lines on his stomach are 90% gone. I put that MVB (thanks for identifying it for me!) on top of the mesh on the cage, so it's about an inch closer, and he seems to be liking it more (less "squished frog" basking and more "look at m proud beard" basking).

The sand is like a really hard, packed sand...I'm not sure if it was a mix of something that they set up at first, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to set it up to be tile inside his new home, leaving the option for a "bioactive" setup at some point once I know more about what he needs and am used to his requirements and behaviors and stuff.

For that lamp fixture, does the size have to match absolutely? I found this Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22"
bulb on Amazon with Prime, but it's 2" shorter than the fixture. Would that matter? (Sorry, I've got zero experience with lighting fixtures...I just change the bulbs in my house for my silly Human requirements).

With the salad, right now we're trying the "paper towel trick" but also leaving some in his bowl. No bites yet, but I'll wait until he's been here for a couple of weeks before I start worrying more then.

Thanks, /u/thepienosaur!

u/mar3ware · 5 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I would ditch those pellets as substrate and get yourself some slate tile. You can find it at almost any hardware store. You may have to cut some pieces with a tile cutter or wet saw to get them to fit the whole enclosure. You could also just use newspaper or paper tiles if you don't care about asethics.

I would say the most important things is to make sure he has the correct diet, temps and UVB lighting.For a baby you want the basking spot to be at least 105°f and cool side to be around 80°f. Reptisun 10.0 t5 for the UVB source is highly recommended but you can go with a quality mercury vapor bulb that also doubles as a basking bulb. Make sure to use a quality calcium/vitamin dust for the feeders and don't forget to gut load your feeders too.

The poo looks like normal poo to me. You can always find a herp vet that is close and do an initial checkup, they are usually pretty cheap for a wellness check ($40-$80).

u/PeaceLoveLindzy · 4 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Congrats on your new baby! Since you're new to the world of beardies, please read up on their care with these wonderful guides:

Comprehensive Care Gudie, Nutrition Guide, A wonderful Cheat Sheet!

You will want to get in an Infrared Temp Gun for the most accurate readings for your basking/warm/cool areas. The sticky thermometers on the side are severely inaccurate. This will help guarantee your beardie's temps are where they need to be for proper digestion and health.

I cannot tell from the picture, but mealworms should be avoided until your dragon is over 6 months old as they're very hard to digest and can cause compaction- as should adult superworms.
Micro super worms, pheonix worms/black soldier fly larva, dubia roaches, silkworms, and crickets are all safe options for your baby.

What does your lighting setup look like?

u/Furgus · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I've read on here people who've used both and they both seem good. I'll most likely get a ceramic heater when I move my colony inside for winter. In NC my garage and a medium heat pad worked perfectly for my little guys. Most important thing is a thermostat. Set it to a temp you want and put the probe in the crates. It will shut off when it gets to temp and you'll be set.
Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing
I love my little roaches and my dragon seems to love them too.

u/Xanoectos · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Alright! So that fixture itself isn't bad, but the UVB bulb that is in there probably isn't great. There is a bunch of research that suggests those coil style UVB bulbs aren't great for our beardies and don't cover the tank in enough UV. This hood is what we use along with this bulb. This light should be on during the day and turned off at night. General consensus is at least 12 hours on. That hood may come with a bulb already, but if it does, it's probably the 5.0 which isn't strong enough for bearded dragons. That why I gave the link to the 10.0 version. This bulb should be replaced once a year even if still illuminates, as the capacity to produce UV diminishes after about a year.

The other thing in the fixture may be a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). If it just generates heat but no light, then that is what that is. You really only need that if the tank temperature drops below 75-70 degrees F. Make sure not to use any red or any lights at night as bearded dragons can see color and it will disrupt their sleeping.

Finally, it sounds like you don't have a basking light. Even though your house stays pretty warm, beardies still need a basking spot of around 105 degrees F. In the now empty spot where your old UVB bulb was, you can use one of these. Some people just use flood lights from Home Depot or elsewhere, just make sure it's not an LED one. You can use this light dimmer to control the light output to get the basking spot to the correct temperature. I would recommend this infrared temperature gun to check for the correct temperatures during the day and at night.

Lighting is one of the biggest things for bearded dragons and can take some time to get set up correctly. It's good to ask questions and research! I still learn new things about beardies all the time. I'll get pictures of our setup tomorrow and show you. I would tonight, but our babies are already sleeping!

One last thought, as some others have said, if you have an exotic vet nearby, it certainly wouldn't hurt to have Ember checked over. They can check for parasites or other issues before they become a problem.

u/allonsyyy · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Oh crap man, did the vet not see the dragon moving like that? That's either metabolic bone disorder (MBD) or hypothiaminosis, and it's pretty advanced.

MBD: Beardies cannot use vitamin D from their food, they have to produce it with their skin and to do that, they need a proper light bulb. That does not look like a proper bulb. No vitamin D means he can't absorb calcium, and this is what lack of calcium causes. It is fatal unless you do something, stat. This is a proper bulb. You also need to get a large amount of calcium into the dragon, they sell liquids at the pet store that you can eye dropper into its mouth.

Hypothiaminosis is lack of vitamin B. Symptoms are similar, MBD is more common I think. Does your son use a vitamin supplement in addition to calcium? Because he ought to be. Herptivite is a good one.

104 F is not a high basking temp, 114 would actually be better. I also don't believe in water bowls in dragon enclosures as they raise the humidity and dragons are susceptible to pneumonia but others may disagree. My dragon gets a swim in the tub every week and fresh salad every day and she's plenty hydrated. A ceramic heat emitter might work better than a night light but don't go buying extra stuff just yet. I'm not sure that guy's gonna make it. Get the light bulb, a fixture for it, the liquid calcium with D3 and a multi vitamin if he doesn't have one. It's still eating, you have a chance. Good luck.

E: I am but an enthusiast, I might be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

u/lateefx · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Awesome. Those starter kits are a shame - you've done a good job keeping up with the lights though. Here's my recommendation and this is from learning from experienced bearded dragon keepers.

  • Ditch the dual light set up ASAP. Your beardie won't be getting the right amount of UVB it needs to thrive. Preference is something that will cover 2/3 of the tank like this: -- I can't emphasize enough how important appropriate UVB light absorption is for your beardie's growth, digestion, etc.

  • Don't get a temperature gauge, get a gun like this so you can test temps at specific spots, surface temperature is what we're after.

    Finally - you must check out the links in the sidebar, starting with the "Comprehensive Care Guide" -- everything I've said in this message is in that comprehensive guide.
u/Tumorhead · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Your dragon looks like shit. Do not worry about its stains because it is massively unhealthy. Worry about THAT.

Because he has no UV and not enough heat he has no appetite. Because he has no appetite he's malnourished and very underweight.

MBD is metabolic bone disease which is caused by lack of calcium and vitamin D, which is caused by malnutrition and lack of UV. MBD is causing his jaw to recede. See more info at this link.

You need to immediately

  1. Dump out all the sand in his tank.
  2. Line tank with paper towels.
  3. Don't use the night lamp anymore.
  4. Get an under cabinet fluorescent light fixture (or similar pet store fixture) and a Reptisun 10.0 fluorescent bulb OR an Arcadia 12% bulb.
  5. [Get a digital probe thermometer.]
  6. Place the digital probe in your tank at the level your dragon basks at and measure the temperature.
  7. You want the temp to be 105 degrees F. If it's not, move the probe closer to the lamp. If that works, build/buy a platform where the lizard can get to that. If not, get a HIGHER WATTAGE NORMAL incandescent bulb. (Look inside your lamp fixture and it should say the max wattage it can take.)
  8. Place lamp at ONE CORNER of your tank. MAKE SURE THE DRAGON CANT TOUCH IT.
  9. Mount the fluorescent bulb INSIDE THE TANK above the basking spot.
  10. Find something to make multiple hiding spots, AT THE VERY LEAST one on either side of the cage. It can be pet store things or something as simple as a cardboard box with a hole in it. Towels and blankets are also appreciated, and you can drape them over things to make cover.
  11. Bathe in shallow warm water once a day for a few minutes. You do not need to offer a water bowl in his cage.

    With this set up your dragon should start to feel better and want to eat more kinds of food!!


  12. Buy hornworms or silkworms. These will be soft and easy to digest, delicious and hopefully stimulating, but most importantly very nutritious. You can also try waxworms, phoenix worms/calciworms.
  13. Buy Herptivite and Rep-Cal. Dust worms and greens with a little bit of this per meal.
  14. IF YOU CANNOT GET WORMS AT THE VERY LEAST GET PROPER VEGGIES. Offer one or more of these greens: Alfalfa (plant not sprouts), turnip greens, mustard greens, collard greens, endive, dandelion greens, or escarole. To this add either thin slices of raw squash or plain cooked squash. I recommend getting frozen blocks of pureed squash, microwaving, and mixing the greens in the squash mush to coat.
  15. You can try feeding crickets again. Gut load your crickets (feed them nutritious things).


  16. READ ALL THE CARE SHEETS LISTED ON THE LEFT OF THIS REDDIT PAGE! I've just simplified things so this situation can be turned around as soon as possible.

u/Barnhardt1 · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

A branch is fine if he likes to use it. Once he's full grown you'll probably need to make him some sort of platform to lay on since they get up to two feet long. For the basking area, it's the actual surface temperature of whatever he's laying on that you want to check. We use an inexpensive infrared thermometer from Amazon. We have this one and it's only $15.99

The air temperature only needs to be in the 80's, and you want to put the basking area at one end of the tank. That way the basking area is the hottest and the opposite end is cooler, so he can move around and find the spot where he's happiest with the temperature. You want to put the UVB light in the middle so it shines on him no matter what part of the tank he's in.

One way to tell if you have the temperature in the basking area right is if he sits under the light with his mouth open. That means he's at the temperature he's happy with, and since he can't sweat he's using his mouth to cool down just enough to maintain his temperature. If you Google "bearded dragon gaping" there are lots of pictures of them doing it.


u/drucius · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

This site has a pretty good explanation of what i am talking about with thermostats.

Unfortunately proportional thermostats are not cheap. A basic model is general >$80 (USD). Herpstat by Spyder Robotics is the most best around from everyone I talk to.

Honestly, before i dropped that kind of $, I would put in a 75 Watt bulb and check temperatures to see if you even need a thermostat. Too hot, try a 50watt and see if that is better.

Re: checking temps. I would suggest one of these they are cheap and fairly accurate.

u/ADano · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

You should always have temps available on the warm and cool side.

If you don't have fixed thermometers I highly suggest spending the extra $$ on a battery powered infrared thermometer.

Something like:

Depending on age, their basking spot should be 95-100(fahrenheit) for adults, a little warmer for juveniles, 100-105. The ambient temp of the basking side will naturally be higher than the cool side.

The cool side should be noticeably different in the 80-85 degree range.


Hope this helps, please provide an update!!

u/redneckrockuhtree · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Buy an inexpensive flourescent fixture - Something along the lines of this and mount it inside the tank, under the screen, using 3M Command Hooks. That'll be the fixture for your UV bulb. You want it under the screen because A) distance affects UV strength and B) the screen will block a lot of UV.

You also need a basking bulb and fixture. Get a fixture like this with a ceramic socket. You want the ceramic as basking lights get hot and plastic sockets will fail. You'll want a basking light to go in there, as well.

Depending on how warm your house stays at night, you may need a second fixture like the above with a ceramic heat emitter in it. During the winter, we have to use a CHE to keep Vermillion's tank warm enough, but we don't need it during the summer.

I would suggest a timer. That way, your new buddy has a regular daylight schedule. Put the UV and basking light on the same timer.

The basking light should be placed over something that allows your beardie to get moderately close to the bulb for warmth. A temp gun is handy for checking the temperature in the basking spot to make sure it's warm enough.

u/EchoBrain22 · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Thats a nice budget build. You will want to make sure those bricks are secure. You don't want them falling while you beardie is climbing on it. Maybe silicone them together.

Also those thermometers are known to be inaccurate and fail over time.

Go with an IR thermometer like THIS for better readings

I also use one with a wired probe as well. You can put the probe right on the basking spot. And the keep the unit of the other end so you get readings from the hot spot and cool side. Like this one

You dont really need a water dish either.

u/SavnetSinn · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Really sorry that I've only noticed your reply just now. Hopefully you've figured it all out, but if not, see below for the items I use:

Light Fixture:

ReptiSun 10.0 24":

3mm Mounting Tape:

Remove the plastic shroud and included bulb from the light fixture. Affix a full-length strip of the mounting tape along the back, and place the fixture inside the tank, centered and near the top. You'll have to snake its power cord through the tank's lid. Then pop in the ReptiSun bulb and switch it on. You're good to go, just be sure to replace the bulb roughly every 8-9 months.

I don't have many front-on images of my beardies' tanks, so here's an image of my crafty escape artist using his log and the light fixture to break out.

u/Crackpotelf · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Usually on the back of the bulb/lamp boxes there will be a little graphic of distance vs heat, so for the basking bulb, find a structure that they can climb onto that is at the height, usually in the 100 to 110 region. For the UVB, i would make sure that a good portion of the tank gets good lighting, especially the basking spot as thats where they spend alot of their lazy boi hours. I used a cheap laser thermometer to check my temps for the first week or so and he seems to be doing ok. Good luck!

Thermometer: Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃), Yellow and Black

u/iceariina · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I'd recommend a couple hammocks! I got mine off Amazon and my beardie LOVES IT

Penn Plax REP701 Lizard Lounger, 100% Natural Seagrass Fibers For Anoles, Bearded Dragons, Geckos, Iguanas, and Hermit Crabs Triangular 14 x 14 Inches Large

u/emmersthefreeman · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I have that same hammock for both of my beardies. They both love theirs! I got it at a reptile show, but I'm pretty sure this is it:

u/Neuman98 · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

You deff want the high output uvb bulbs they don't put out heat but uv light which they need to metabolize calcium. Since beardies spend lots of time in the sun, those lights are super important and you shouldn't go without one. As for the temps you can get a temp gun for like $15 on Amazon,

u/ImHackingTheFBI · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I wouldn't go with a Mercury Vapor Bulb. Most pet stores sell them for around 80+ USD where I live, and the possible negative affects that are starting to appear make them seem like the new money scheme (kinda like how the tiniest bit of research will show you how calcium sand is bad, but it makes money so it's still on shelves).

Here is a brief explanation of some of their side affects:
"Use UVB Mercury Vapor basking lights with caution. They typically have spikes through the UV spectrum; so although not necessarily a health risk, it is not as consistent as other bulbs. Additionally, their wavelengths are typically shorter than sunlight, and that can potentially cause cell damage & photo-kerato-conjunctivitis. Because the need to place them high enough so the UV doesn’t damage the animal, the heat it produces generally dissipates and is often not sufficient to heat the area. This may result in the animal staying under the basking light longer than necessary, exposing them to too much UV, leading to the above issues. The minimum recommended distance is at least 12 inches (30cm) between the bulb and the animal. Many bulbs experience UV decay, which means that the UVB output is reduced after about 10 days of use, effectively requiring a max of 12 inches in order to be effective. Most produce spikes of long-wave UVA and some produce short-wave UVA, but most are low output of this light, which is visible to reptiles."
( source )

I would personally recommend a combination of these products: Zoo Med Deluxe Porcelain Clamp Lamp, Zoo Med 150w Basking Light, (Make sure you get the correct size, this one is for a 36 Inch long tank Zoo Med OS36 T8 ReptiSun UVB 10.0 HO Light, (Again, remember to check the size) Zoo Med ReptiSun® Terrarium Hood, 36-Inch, and, because you said it wasn't warm enough with one light, I'd recommend Zoo Med Ceramic Heat Emitter paired with
Zoo Med Wire Cage Clamp Lamp
to raise the ambient temperature.

Of course, I'm not saying you have to get these things, but they are just a few of my recommendations. Good luck! (Hope I got all that formatting right)

u/SirSilentBob · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

New and Improved Eva-dry E-333 Renewable Mini Dehumidifier I got these for my dragon's homes. It really helps when I have the usual super humid southern weather.

u/SiIentWing25 · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22"

That's the bulb you want

Carolina Custom Cages Reptile 22" T5HO UVB Standard Light Fixture

That's a good fixture for it, or you could go with a Reptisun brand fixture. Be aware that the free bulb included with the reptisun fixture is a 5.0 and you need a 10.0 bulb, so either way you'll be purchasing the bulb itself. T5 it's the way to go in my opinion because it could be mounted inside the enclosure or on top of a screen top. T8 sized bulbs need to be mounted inside.

u/VenusAndSaturn · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Two weeks is a little long, I personally wouldn't want any of my beardies going without UVB for more than a week.
He should be okay but I'd try and take him outside in a large tub so he can get UVB, preferably 70+ in temps.
^ 34" T5 HO Fixture
^ 34" T5 HO 10.0
This should be cheaper, fixture wise. I use this brand of fixture for almost all my reptiles but in the 46" version since I prefer the UVB to go the entire length of my 75 gallons for the beardies. Do know that you will need to replace the UVB bulb every 6-12 months.

Also know that if your dragon is below a year or two old your most likely going to be spending 47 dollars every three weeks or every month for around 2,000 large crickets, of course this is just an estimate as if you go with medium or small depending on the size of your beardie it may be less. And of course if you decide to feed a different staple feeder like roaches, black soldier fly larvae, locusts, grasshoppers or silkworms.

Assuming you mean the bulb rather than a heat lamp fixture. Its basically a ceramic heat emitter, its made out of ceramic and produces only heat and no light which is very good for reptiles, especially reptiles like beardies who see in color. Most people buy those miss-titled "infrared" heat lamps thinking their dragon can't see it but they actually can which often keeps them from getting a full rest and can lead to future problems.

Its only a necessity if your temps in the enclosure drop below 65 during the night.

u/LeoBarton · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I picked up one of these and just leave it sitting on top of my terrarium. Works like a charm.

New and Improved Eva-dry E-333 Renewable Mini Dehumidifier

u/laisseladouleur · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Okay, Do you know the temps of the hot and cool side of your enclosure? 20 gallons is small. Could be too hot in there. do not trust the velcro stick on analog thermometers. You need to get a temp gun or digital thermometer to be accurate. Let me know when you know what kind of bulbs you're using and how far away they are from each other and the basking spot. :)


this is the one I use and it's super affordable and reliable.

u/Solenus0922 · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Oh, now I see. So would be better in the long run? And would it better to mount it above the cage then or just possible to do so? (sorry that sentence was a bit confusing)

u/Kavzilla · 5 pointsr/BeardedDragons This is the one I use since I use the 24 in bulbs to cover more of my tank. Just attach it inside the tank with command strips or hooks or industrial strength sticky Velcro for easy removal

u/radams713 · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Mhm! I use this one from Amazon. It's cheap and works great.

u/NoahJWatkins · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

I bought mine off of Amazon. They're really nice and would recommend getting one. Sorry for the long link, I'm on mobile and don't know how to format.

Link: Penn-Plax 14x14" Lizard Lounger, Large

u/ruggles_bottombush · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I wouldn't put too much stock into anything you read on yahoo answers. I've used CHEs for a number of years without issue. Depending on the wattage, I've measured over 500 degrees on the surface of the CHE but ceramics can withstand extremely high temperatures. A defective CHE with a bubble in the material could easily explode and I'm sure it happens but it seems rare. If you are concerned, there are very reliable and affordable thermostats available online. Just make sure you are using a light fixture with a ceramic socket so it can withstand the heat of the CHE. These are the fixtures and thermostats I've used with CHEs and UTHs.


u/mg4loko · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

i got this hammock last week, its pretty big

I like it alot. Heres a reddit post of my setup

u/Dr_Girlfriend_ · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

I'm pretty sure that it's the same one I have. Here it is : Penn-Plax Reptology Lizard Lounger, X-Large

u/squishybloo · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Without knowing what they are besides color, it's difficult to say. The red light is totally unnecessary and will disrupt your beardie's day/night cycle - toss that for sure.
If by 'blue' light you mean either a tube or compact UVB light, those should be on during the day, about 10-12 hours.
If by yellow light you mean a heat lamp, then again it should be on for about 10-12 hours, along with the UVB lamp, to provide heat like a sunny basking spot during the day.

All lights should be off at night.

u/merlyn923 · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

This is the one that I use. it is variable, and works great!

u/x-mav · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

I do have both on at the same time but the heater is on one of these:

Though it seems to be on more than not.

I think its set to 85. The basking rock is typically between 102-110. I thought as long as the desired basking temp was in that range, I was fine?

u/BossHassTheSauceBoss · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

Yes, I like to use a laser thermometer as they are usually very accurate and let me check all around the tank. I have this one

u/Boomdang1001 · 4 pointsr/BeardedDragons

To start off
What's the size of the tank?

What is her diet?

What are the temps?

Get rid of the sand. Use tile (like slate you can get a few for like 10$ at a lowes or home depot), or repti carpet, until then use newspaper or paper towel

Get a bigger hide

Get a tube uvb bulb ideally reptisun 10.0. (link:

u/catchthemagicdragon · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Yup, that CHE will work. But honestly how cold does it get in your house at night? I don't run any kind of night heat and my guy is good, it naturally gets pretty damn cold at night where they naturally live. Doesn't get below 68 really at night. And I would recommend something more like this You can find under cabinet light fixtures like these at Walmart, Home Depot, anywhere really. They're much slimmer, actually allowing it to be mounted inside the tank, and much cheaper. With that particular one I linked you would have to remove the plastic cover, but no big. The fixture you linked is a hood that sits over the screen, and the screen filters out most of the UBV which you absolutely do not want. That's really all they sell with pet branded stuff.

u/vixsin520 · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

The uvb bulb doesn’t give off much heat so the other side of the tank will still be cooler if you have your basking bulb on the warm side.
Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22"

That brand would be the one to go to, you can buy the hood for it as well on amazon. Online is always cheaper than in stores.

As for the dubia roaches try searching in your area for reptile centers or shops they usually carry them.

u/Luxray978 · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

abou the lighting you want the heater on a thermostat to controll the temps and bearded dragons need full spectrum uvb, you want to have a tube bulb like this one 1

u/gooberfaced · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

> Would that be powerful enough to heat a 75 gallon tank? I read that the basking spot also needs to be at least 100 degrees farenheight.

You won't know until you check it with an accurate thermometer- you want the ambient air in the basking spot to be around 90ºF and the surface of the basking spot itself to be 105-110ºF for a juvenile.
You want to measure these temperatures accurately with a digital probe thermometer or a laser temperature gun- the guns are cheap.
Once you check the temperature then you adjust the light until you get things perfect but you can't just guess. If it's not warm enough you can simply raise his basking area via a taller platform, rock, or branch.

How are you fixed for his UVB light? That is equally crucial!

Care Guide.

u/tiffers1993 · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

This is the exact one I got. I ordered it from Amazon and it works well! Sunbeam 732-500 King Size Heating Pad with UltraHeatTechnology

u/Paulmunkotv · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Thank you so much for the detailed response!

This is the current bulb I was "recommended" in the kit:

Kind of bummed it is basically useless.

I am am absolutely anticipating the cost of feeding the youngin, this just hit me particularly hard because of how expensive everything else was to begin with.

Thank you very much for the light recommendation! I think I may actually have to go smaller, as I think that light may actually hang over the sides of the 20 gallon enclosure I have right now. It may not be the prettiest, but would it be an issue detrimental to the health of my dragon if it did actually overlap the entire thing?

u/theadj123 · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Home Depot or Lowes have lighting departments, you're looking for an under the counter fluorescent fixture. You can also order one from Amazon, for example here's one for 25 bucks I found including the keyword search (and I have this same fixture myself) The fixtures for these lights aren't special so any fluorescent fixture will work, only the bulb output is special.

u/supersubbosses · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

If it's like this:

I would swap it out for this instead:

You can grab a cheap fixture for it at walmart or lowes and mount it inside the tank with command strips. The problem with what you have now is that the uv rays are getting filtered by the screen top. Mounting a tube fixture inside will allow you little guy to get more uvb rays.

u/Lizard_Lair · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

It's a hammock lol. Here's my dragon using it and here it is sold on amazon

u/auryncharm · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I keep a mini dehumidifier in the corner of the enclosure - It does help a bit. Or you could look into one of the small electric dehumidifiers for the room.

u/driggs333 · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Try getting a repti-hammock to expand vertically. This is the large size and takes up about 1/3 of my 40 gal breeder, it should be big enough for your guy. I haven't had any real issues with the suction cups coming off either, and they're replaceable if you do.

u/MrReezo · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Read about the CHE on the sub's sidebar. So will be checking out a store today or simply ordering off of amazon. No colored lights in the tank.

The big thing i see with the Reptisun 10.0 is that most people hang them inside the tank so I'm guessing I should get a fixture that will fit under the mesh tank top.

These two will work? Or will any terrarium hood work?

Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22"

Zoo Med 26053 Reptisun T5-Ho Terrarium Hood, 24"

CHE I'm looking at.

Ceramic Heat Emitter - Reptile Lamp 100 Watt Reptile Heat Bulb No Light Emitting Brooder Coop Heater 2 PACK,Black (2 Pack=100W)

Excuse the formatting I'm on mobile.

u/TopTablePRG · 3 pointsr/BeardedDragons

My friend who specializes in reptile rescue/rehab uses this at their shelter:

but I got Dan’s via the vet’s office this time. :)

u/Fonzibearr · 4 pointsr/BeardedDragons

15 bucks on amazon and will give you instant temperature readings unlike a dial or probe thermometer

u/TheNerdyGamer360 · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

I use this one:

Lights of America 7020 24" Fluorescent Light Stick

I've had to replace it twice, but it's only ~$8 at Walmart.

u/theanatomyofpainting · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

I use this since it let's you test the Temps of the various surfaces your beardie lays on.

u/salzberrysteakroger · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Zoo Med OS524 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22"

2 ft.T5 High 1-Bulb Output Fluorescent Grow Light Fixture

The fixture was a bit trickier for me to find and I had to get one on Amazon and not just my local department store because I was told that since my bulb was a HO (high output), I needed a HO light fixture.

u/TechiesMidOrFeed · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

It depends on your fixture. You can choose a T5 or T8 bulb

Mine is this T5:

u/squeakqueg · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

I have my UVB in one of these, stuck to the inside corner of the tank with a bunch of heavy-duty velcro 3M strips.

u/VilimirDrahkme · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

how old is your uvb bulb? They should be replaced every 6 months or so... also consider a thermometer gun - you can get them from amazon or at a local hardware store usually.

EDIT: I have this

u/my_general_erection · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

2 more things. If that heat lamp is resting on metal mesh cut a hole around where the light bulb is. The mesh on the cage could create a mini oven and have your bulbs burn out in half the time. Second, get a heat temperature gun to test that spot. Its the only accurate way of testing a basking spot.

u/beefstrudel42 · 1 pointr/BeardedDragons

you could move the basking spot up as close to the screen as possible as a temporary solution, when I was waiting for my t5's I just cut a hole in the screen for the t8 to get through better, but then you have to worry about an escaping dragon.


this is the fixture I use:

the bulbs are cheapest on :

u/Endless_squire · 2 pointsr/BeardedDragons

Try an appetite stimulant. It's fairly inexpensive and worked for my little one who was refusing food. Try this stuff