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Reader 1

Reader 2

I don't know how shipping works to Canada, but it isn't too expensive of a product, and I am sure you can find it locally. It is a very handy tool.

That sounds like pretty good fuel econ lol. With my tune my 335i gets around 14-18 MPG

Let me start by saying i think i over did it, but I am happy with the results

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Let's start with what I purchased:

1. Turtle Wax 50764 Drill-Based Headlight Restorer
   
2. 3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System
   
3. Turtle Wax T-43 (2-in-1) Headlight Cleaner and Sealant - 9 oz
   
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   Then this is the process I used:
   
   
4. Start dry sanding with 3M #1 and then #2 Disc
   
5. Wet sand with Turtle wax #1 > #2 and finally 3M #3 disc
   
6. Buff with Turtle Wax compound, repeat this step until i was happy
   
7. Apply clear coat from TurtleWax kit
   
8. Apply sealant from TurtleWax kit
   
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   I plan to touch up with the TurleWax sealant every 8 weeks.
   
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I'm going to be straight with you. Save 50-100$ and buy yourself a bluetooth scanner. I bought this an installed the app Torque Lite (free) it has saved me so much cash it's not funny. BAFX Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XAQIDb05W5KSJ

Plug it in, itll pull the codes from your car, you can look them up on forums and boom. Diagnosis for free. I hope this helps!

I've been taken too the cleaners too many times. Those people run a business and need to make money. Some do it honestly, some dont.

Cheers!

I don't think you understood my question - Bank 1 and Bank 2 each have 2 sensors - B1S1 (Bank 1 Sensor 1 - Upstream), B1S2 (Downstream), B2S1 and B2S2.

You need to replace B1SX - What's the X? You should find that out, rather than replacing both (which are about $100 a piece).

If it's a code that's being thrown, you should buy a cheap OBD2 scanner and download Torque (Android) or CarDoctor (iPhone) or another OBD2 app on your phone to read the codes. If you have an iPhone, they usually only support WiFi enabled devices, while Android phones support Bluetooth. I got this (https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526942582&sr=8-4&keywords=ELM327) and it works great, but I have an android.

You can read out what the code is, and it will probably tell you which bank and sensor is throwing it as well (maybe not, but if he narrowed it down to that bank, its worth a shot).

I just ordered this Heli-Coil thread repair kit. It seems like a good option to keep the stock bolts all 6mm:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKPXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has really good reviews too!

Do not go to a dealer for detailing work, ever. Dealer detailing departments are some of the worst things out there. I'm speaking both as someone who has 2 friends working at a BMW dealer, and someone who had a Ford dealer's detailing dept put scratches in the rear bumper of a brand new 2016 Mustang GT that won't come out.

I like using this stuff, you're going to need a few stiff bristle brushes as well

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https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-543200-755-Engine-Cold-Cleaner/dp/B00OA1QJZU

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if you need to go hard core

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https://www.amazon.com/Gunk-FEB1-Foamy-Engine-Cleaner/dp/B000ABGA6W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V91WZBBEDC95KC20P14J

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join up on /r/autodetailing as well

I'm with /u/pina_koala on this. It looks like surface damage of some sort. You could try this. It's pretty cheap and easy to try it out. It is also available at most part stores.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C3HAHCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2

This works great if you just want to read codes.

Get him a year's subscription to the BMW CCA
https://www.bmwcca.org/
their Roundel magazine is just the best car mag ever.

or get him this excellent book:
http://www.amazon.com/Memoirs-Hack-Mechanic-Rob-Siegel/dp/0837617200

Another option that I used to do is to use a topsider. Then you don't need to get under the car and deal with the drain plug. This was the solution for me as I didn't have a way to lift my car.

Air Power America 5060TS Topsider Multi-Purpose Fluid Removing System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9dNwCbH59VMW3

Apex RLB-2301 Universal Roof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M3KSK0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here’s a link to the set I’m using currently, there’s some added wind noise, but it’s not to bad, and with my roof basket I knew there would be a lot of wind noise anyways, but with the sunroof shade closed it’s not noticeable at all

Just food for thought, instead of having a can of fire seal (I think it wrecks the tire) did you think of putting in safety seal tire plug kit and a compressor ? I put it in my other vehicles trunk since the spare is not inflated so I would need to inflate it then once repaired get it back in. I use that car for road trips and it’s saved me already. Doesn’t take up much space at all.

I use this, there are other/better solutions out there, but this does what I need it to do.


FOXWELL NT510 Automotive OBD2 Scanners Code Reader for BMW All System Car Diagnostic Scan Tool with Battery Registration

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019QCG5RE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_IT60CbDZE6BC2

Most BMWs have a "tamper light/dot" on the instrument cluster near the mileage. This light/dot will illuminate if the instrument cluster/millage has been tampered with.

This is on sale right now: FOXWELL NT510 Automotive OBD2 Scanners Code Reader for BMW All System Car Diagnostic Scan Tool with Battery Registration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019QCG5RE/

This one reads every code that is one of the first that has dealership "capacity" (computers regarding luxury cars are everywhere in the car):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RLF8FBC/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Isn't there a Bentley for it?
edit** http://www.amazon.com/Bentley-Paper-Repair-Manual-BMW/dp/B0044A8KRC

My E92 w/ sport suspension hits the ramps while driving towards them, so I have to drive onto 2" wood planks first. Even then, as soon as my tires hit the ramps they start pushing them away. It was very sketchy driving on to these. I would perhaps instead get the longer race ramps.

Ultimately though, I went with a QuickJack. It has made working on my BMW not so much of a chore anymore.

Also I will be replacing the cabin filter with this : https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001DRHMMS/?coliid=I146T5958EFWPE&colid=232N8YJJCNYCJ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Not to mention the diff fluid has not been changed in 100k km (bought it less than 15k ago)

Yep, quick google search will show you where they are, Ive had alot of people cause problems by jumping it there. Here is a link to the charger I use on my M cars, I just bought 3 battery leads so I can keep one charger at home and charge any of them. Heres the lead
https://smile.amazon.com/Schumacher-WM-12-Connector-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B003WDDLTO/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=trickle+charger+lead&qid=1557669815&s=gateway&sr=8-18
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004LX14Z2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B004LX3AXQ&pd_rd_w=VsD2p&pf_rd_p=46cdcfa7-b302-4268-b799-8f7d8cb5008b&pd_rd_wg=Edh2V&pf_rd_r=QSZC2Q9P4WH3TEHVZ4J0&pd_rd_r=d60460a4-74be-11e9-a9da-2171f603c15c&th=1

Two common causes for this in the E46:

1. Defective aux fan
   
   
2. Defective HVAC controller module
   
   
3. Defective final stage unit (HVAC blower motor speed controller)
   
   FYI, the proper test equipment for troubleshooting battery draw is a clamp-type meter that has accurate measurement in the mA range. I used the following on my car:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00023RU0S/
   
   The key to testing this is to let the car go to sleep, at which point it should be drawing no more than 35-40mA, and then pulling fuses. This obviously requires the passenger door and trunk to be left wide open so you can monitor the draw on the meter and enter the vehicle to pull the fuses without causing the car to wake up. Some people say that merely pulling fuses will cause the vehicle to wake up. I never got that far so I can't relate whether that's true or false. But unless you have access to BMW SSS, which can allegedly report draw of individual circuits, even historically, that is the process required.
   
   You should also consider the possibility that the battery is just toast. If it's older than 2-3 years and you don't drive every day for at least 15 minutes for each turn of the starter the battery may have a bad cell and so any draw takes it under quickly. Seen that many times. You should have 12.6V +/- 0.2V on the battery with the car off, and 13.8 with the engine running.