Top products from r/Bowyer

We found 25 product mentions on r/Bowyer. We ranked the 35 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Bowyer:

u/WillAdams · 5 pointsr/Bowyer

For a detailed overview on old bow construction materials, see if your library has or can get a copy of (ob. discl. I arranged for a second printing). Or see

Bob W. Kooi has published a fair bit on the physics of archery, starting w/ his thesis: --- I believe it touches on materials.

You should be able to get a good overview of recent developments at:

Short answer:

  • old: natural materials, bow woods such as yew, osage orange, hickory, possibly laminated (backed) w/ sinew, horn, bone, rawhide, fiber, bamboo, other bow woods
  • new: core materials include true bow woods as well as bamboo and other woods, and various composites such as carbon foam, backing is pretty much universally fiberglass or a carbon composite

    Some materials were used anciently and until very recently such as steel.

    My suggestion would be to focus on the traditional yew longbow (noting how new growth and old growth wood was used w/in a single stave to form the back and the belly, taking advantage of their differing properties) contrasting it w/ a modern longbow which is well-documented such as the ACS longbow (unfortunately is off-line, try: )
u/HateIsStronger · 2 pointsr/Bowyer

This rasp is great for rapid wood removal and medium wood removal Diamond Nicholson Farrier Rasp File, American Pattern, Rasp Cut, Rectangular, 14-Inch Length

This one is cheaper and only 1 type of teeth but is half round. Great value TEKTON 6695 10-Inch Half Round Wood Rasp

I don't know if those are available for you but I recommend them. You just need to make sure the tools you get don't leave any gaps in what you need your tools to do

u/MistahBradley · 1 pointr/Bowyer

This is what I've got So far it's done pretty good. Then went to Home Depot and bought a hatchet which really helps for slimming down the wood. But until I've got my own house (in an apartment right now) this is the best I can do :/

u/Kulden · 1 pointr/Bowyer

Thanks so much!

I do have a few questions, though. I was doing some reading on the sub before making my post, and I had seen some people recommending the Shinto Saw Rasp over the Stanley Surform Rasp (I assume that links to the correct one?). What's your opinion on the matter? I know nothing about rasps (Which I hope to correct) so I'm not sure what makes one rasp better than another.

Also, how does one determine what the draw weight of a bow that they've made is? Is there a way to alter it if it turns out it's too heavy? Again, I haven't read the books in full yet, but I just wanted to get that question out of the way while I was still thinking of it.

Are there any kinds of finishes that are more conducive to making a good seal on a bow that won't potentially affect it? (assuming that adding a stain or finish can affect the performance of a bow)

u/m_santo · 2 pointsr/Bowyer

I've never made a bow, but I just finished reading Jim Hamm's Wooden Bows: What I Wish I'd Known When I Started; and thought it was a great introduction of bowyer terms and techniques, all completely new to me as a novice. Hamm is also a co-author of the the Bowyer's Bible series, which I think would be cool to dive into after banging out a couple crude beginner's bows.

u/petecas · 1 pointr/Bowyer amazing rasp - the open structure means it doesn't clog and it can remove material pretty dang fast.

u/HobbyAccumulator · 1 pointr/Bowyer

thanks! i think im gonna grab this shinto saw rasp based on some other users comments. They seem to like it a lot more than the surform.

u/SweetPWNTang · 1 pointr/Bowyer

Last photo says .4" (I'm assuming diameter), which is a bit big.

Might want to try a chainsaw file. I picked up a set at Harbor Freight that have worked fairly well for a few sets of nocks. Like this. Should note they seem duller now and I keep a brass brush to clean it out, and one broke at the handle from pushing too hard, but that is typical Harbor Freight. There should be something higher quality on Amazon.

I've also seen some use a hacksaw with a rod saw blade like this one, but I haven't used that method myself.

u/justbangingaround · 2 pointsr/Bowyer

Start by buying shafts. This is s great and affordable fletching jig: Bohning Pro Class Fletching Tool Right Clamp 1349

u/retix · 1 pointr/Bowyer

Spend a little bit of money (Around $20-$30) to buy a Bench Plane, such as this. I found that this tool works really well for forming boards. However, you need to be really careful that you don't take off too much wood.

u/GardenGnomeOfEden · 5 pointsr/Bowyer

The Spyderco Sharpmaker is an easy way to get a nice edge. It is pricey at $56, but it should last you for years and years, and you can sharpen damn near anything with it, including scissors, chisels, awls, fishhooks, etc.

Also, /r/knives would be a better place to get answers to this question.

u/not_a_ · 3 pointsr/Bowyer

I second the Shinto:

However, for finer tillering I prefer a good cabinet scraper

u/Xspead101 · 2 pointsr/Bowyer

I have read a lot of good about Tru-Oil on other bow making forums. I am going to try it on my next bow and see how it does.

u/FuZhongwen · 3 pointsr/Bowyer

Depends on how into making bows you get. If you're just making one for a project you'll be fine I guess. But if you get addicted like the rest of us you will soon see how important the string is to a good bow. Dental floss can work in a pinch, but there is no substitute for Dacron woven into a flemmish twist. It's not hard at all to do. this is enough Dacron for dozens of strings. this is how to make a string. When you get the process down you can make a string in about 10 minutes.

u/Brytard · 1 pointr/Bowyer

If you have something you can attach this to.

u/Kobluna · 3 pointsr/Bowyer

While it really depends on just HOW fine and polished you want to make your edge, any old sharpening stone would do for ya.

I've gone through a few of these over the years, it's not so abrasive that you'll grind away half your knife by accident, but enough to make it work.

I cannot recommend the double sided stones with the low grit on one side, high on the other. The grits get washed together and it kinda ruins both stones pretty quick.

u/Debaser97 · 1 pointr/Bowyer

I have spare wood from the same stave that I've been saving in case I needed to fill any holes. I'd heard that sawdust mixed with epoxy is good. I'll get pictures in a second.

EDIT: The main culprits. The first is some dead wood that could only be a couple of millimetres deep but it could be going diagonally through the middle of the stave (I am aware of how much of a problem that would be, no need to point it out unless anyone has a genius solution). The second is a knot that shouldn't be too much of a problem since it's just on the handle (you can see my pencil line on the right marking where the handle ends) but it's the worst know on the stave- there are a few others that are tiny.

I guess from your answer I don't have to worry about the type of epoxy or other glues. Would something as cheap as this do?