Top products from r/CarHacking

We found 14 product mentions on r/CarHacking. We ranked the 13 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/CarHacking:

u/lil_mr_reddit · 1 pointr/CarHacking

After months of playing with VCDS and Vag Tacho, massaging FTDI drivers and reinstalling software I've come up with a simplified process of adding keys to IMMO 2 (Volkswagen Auto Group Immobiliser II). Hopefully these 5 simple steps will save you time as there is not a lot of information available for IMMO 2.

Steps to completion:

1. Get your SKC from the instrument panel. $20.00

2. Keyfob to match your car's IMMO box $0.00

3. Sync new Keyfob to your car's remote unlock / lock $0.00

4. Cut the key to match your existing key $30.00

5. Add the new cut & synced key to your IMMO box $50.00


Step 1: Identify SKC
> Don't waste your time with VCDS or VAG Tacho. I hope you get to read this before spending a month messing around with this software and russian clones like I did. Save your money.

> Find a local mechanic with a legit vag-tacho cable and offer them $20 to read your SKC (Secret Key Code) from the Magneti Marelli gauge cluster (this is specific to my 2001 New Beetle - Vag Tacho will work with most / all MK4 VWs). This will only take 5-10 minutes.

>Note: this is not in the ECU, as the wealth of IMMO III documentation might lead you to believe.


Step 2: Buy Your Keyfob
> If you're trying to identify which model key your car uses then you can separate the top and bottom of your current fob and read the part number inside to find a matching key. For my 2001 New Beetle this key worked fine but there's instructions here to help identify your key.


Step 3: Sync Your Keyfob
> Once you have your key you will need to pair it to the car, you can find decent instructions here.


Step 4: Cut Your Keyblade
> You will need your "key blade" cut. It's called laser key cutting but it's just a table top spindle mill. You can find services on eBay for relatively cheap.
> If your situation is anything like mine then you might not know your "key code" (the numeric index of the unique shape of your key). A lot of these services can guess your key code from a clear photo of the key blade - they did this with mine and it works fine.


Step 5: IMMO II Key Matching
> Buy this reader and follow these instructions. Reader is an xtool VAG409 handheld OBD2 reader. Instructions are the Ross-Tech docs for Immobilizer 2 Key Matching.


Where's the gotchas?

  • The glass encapsulated RFID chip inside your keyfob has to be compatible with your immobilizer. Solution: Buy your keyfob carefully without just buying something willy-nilly and you won't have to worry about this. Use the guide I linked in step 2.
  • As I said earlier, if you don't know your key code you can often send a photo and they will "guess it". Some professionals probably won't provide this service because there's a risk they will guess wrong.
  • VCDS won't accept the SKC (Secret Key Code) that Vag Tacho extracted from my gauge cluster :(. Solution: Forget about VCDS, just pay someone with a real vag-tacho cable to extract your SKC and use instructions from step 5.
  • If your keyfob didn't come with a Volkswagen / Audi logo then you can buy them with adhesive backs on eBay.
  • If you want to put a new case on your key fob (without reprogramming anything) make sure to search for a key fob "case". You can pop the VW logo off your old key fob by carefully drilling a small hole toward the outermost edge of the logo. I started with a hole closer to the center which left a small domed-dent in the logo - don't make my mistake.
  • Removing the dome this way also works if you need to change your RFID tag into a new shell (that small screw in the video needs to be removed).


    Kick your feet up and bask in your self-satisfaction; You just saved yourself mucho denaro - my dealership quoted me at $250 for a new key and programming after telling me it wasn't possible to program the keys myself. My total (excluding cables) was $80. Obviously they didn't know who they were talking to!

    Thanks for reading if you have any questions, comments, or suggestions just leave a message.

    > A quick comment about "ccwilliams28" on eBay I want to get off my chest: Unprofessional, rude, and treats your customers like you don't want their business. You are about as organized as a MacDonald's ball pit. But you cut keys great, and that's what I'm paying for so I guess we're even.
u/MiataCory · 3 pointsr/CarHacking

Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/

As far as uploading to a private cloud, that would be a bit more difficult. You could probably set up a server to forward the data to a private cloud, but it'd still be on their servers first.

__

To DIY a solution, you're talking about a bluetooth dongle with some sort of cellular-activated IOT device, AND a GPS puck/receiver, plus the private cloud you'd set up separately. Do-able if you're looking for a project, but definitely more expensive both time and money wise than the bought solution (the GPS alone is ~$50, add an OBD dongle and an RPi and you're over-budget already). If you're trying to do pre-96 cars, that's a LOT of custom wiring, due to the lack of OBD2 (and I'd know, because I went through all that to datalog my '94 MX3).

u/waltwhitman83 · 1 pointr/CarHacking

Say I'm building a mini ECU simulator. I need to provide 12v @ 5A DC over OBD-II. What's the best way to do this, with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Alligator/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=zg_bs_318022011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P1DKJT59MMVX11ZWARXM ?

u/bob84900 · 1 pointr/CarHacking

It looks like the new one you linked to purports to be a direct swap-in replacement for the stock unit.

However, they also say to send them a picture of your existing unit so they can confirm compatibility; so maybe do that.

Edit: with Amazon's return policies being so good, you could also just give it a shot.

Edit 2: I just realized you might have been asking about the actual install process. It shouldn't be too bad. Here's a video I found detailing the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-UEH_RkRTA

You'll want to get a set of trim removal tools like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2A3H5I2OJVFU6&keywords=trim+removal+tool&qid=1565547229&s=gateway&sprefix=trim+remo%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-5

The only tool you should need aside from that is a #2 Philips (maybe JIS? but Philips should work) screwdriver.

u/likeAdrug · 3 pointsr/CarHacking

You've kept details to a minimum, so I'll do the guessing for you.

Google tells me a Cantact has a DB9 male connector. So if you want to connect the Cantact to your cars diagnostic port to send CAN frames, you'll need a cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Vahicle-Flat-Noodle-Serial-Adapter-Diagnostic/dp/B01LW2NRT0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1506097307&sr=1-1&keywords=OBD-II+to+DB9+Cable

The cable you've posted is just an extension cable. Which If you've already got the DB9 to OBDII cable and are looking for more lenght, will work fine. But as I say, you didn't give many details so I'm guessing.
I would have thought the Cantact would have come with a cable?

u/SnowThrasher · 2 pointsr/CarHacking

Metra 2009 - 2013 Honda Fit Dash Kit Double Din for Radio Install Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDUHKEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QDYSDbA2N55T8


You’ll end up buying something like this. Look up”radio install kit for 2013 Honda Fit”

u/redditor21 · 1 pointr/CarHacking

ITs actually pretty easy. I have a 2012 chevy volt and you can trigger the remote start with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1C2436WDJ39HA&psc=1

  • an android app.

    It is possible to remote start a lot of new cars over OBD2 ASSUMING it has onstar module. Onstar doesnt need to be active, but the module needs to be there
u/jikjordan · 4 pointsr/CarHacking

If you want to support the author, Amazon Link

u/28Senses · 2 pointsr/CarHacking

You need an OBD to DB9 cable but you must check the pinout. Most cables you will find are not compatible. The USB2CAN uses the CiA DS102-2[0] standard. The only cable I've found to work with that one is from easysync sold on mouser[1] or amazon[2]

[0] http://affon.narod.ru/CAN/DS102.pdf
[1] http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/EasySync/OBD-M-DB9-F-ES/
[2] https://www.amazon.com/DB9-Female-OBD-II-Male-Cable/dp/B0087FQSF6

u/f0urtyfive · 4 pointsr/CarHacking

Get a 12v (powered) USB hub and wire the barrel plug it comes with to a cigarette lighter plug (don't reverse polarity).

Alternatively, buy this 6$ purpose built cable I found: https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM

u/Return_Foo_Bar · 1 pointr/CarHacking

I haven't tried yet as the OBD2 Tool arrives sometime today.

Here it is.

u/moronmonday526 · 3 pointsr/CarHacking

Seriously, save your brain power for a tougher problem. Faraday cage key bags are a thing. Your keys completely disappear as far as the car is concerned when you place them in the bag. 2 for $13. Drop them in the bag, lock the bag in the lockbox you already mentioned. I travel a ton and I'm a bit paranoid, so I use these bags to prevent a Relay Attack when I park within view of my hotel room.

Faraday Cage Shield Car Key Fob... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XTMHZW