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Off the top, I have to say that I really don't like the tone of your post, it shows a lack of respect and ignorance for how much work and capital the owner of a company has to put in. Being good at business doesn't mean that you're the best technical carpenter or even a carpenter at all. It's like the typical restaurant feud where the kitchen staff doesn't appreciate what the wait staff do and visa-versa, while not realizing that one would not exist without the other.

Sales and dealing with clients is much more difficult than most give credit for. Knowing how to price things to make money, being able to work with all different types of personalities and keeping a level head under very stressful situations are skills we don't learn in the field. Not to mention the financial risk on every project, accounting, advertising, driving all over hells half acre to price jobs you might not get...etc.

All this to say, take a little time to research and learn what goes into the front end of a business that is successful. A few books you might want to check out:

1)Markup and Profit: A Contractors Guide by Michael Stone

2) The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People: Powerful Lessons in Personal Change by Stephen R. Covey

3) Profit First: Transform Your Business from a Cash-Eating Monster to a Money-Making Machine by Mike Michalowicz

4) Running a Successful Construction Company by David Gerstel

5) How to Win Friends & Influence People by Dale Carnegie


Most important though is to find an accountant and learn what goes into accounting. Of all the things that I've seen take down really good carpenters going out on their own, accounting is #1. They don't put money away to pay taxes end up in a robbing peter to pay paul situation, or just don't know what their overhead is to charge appropriately to cover it as well as make a profit and cover their own wage.

As far as how much capital to start out with, I'd say 6 months salary. It's always a good idea to have a least 6 months worth of operating expenses as a capital reserve even while operating. It makes you less likely to be put in situations where you HAVE to work and end up taking jobs you shouldn't.

I'm fairly new to the trade. Been in for about a year now. The way I got in was by looking on craigslist for carpenter apprentices. A local contractor picked me up and I've been on the job learning since. It's very rewarding, expecially when you finish a project or big job, and it is very difficult at times too. Moving stacks of lumber around and working outside on roofs when it's over 100 out isn't fun. I would say with my company we dabble in many things from framing, finish work, remodels, and custom projects. I've heard of guys on this sub who had been working on prefab stuff in shops hoping to get out and work on real homes, but there are plenty of guys who love that stuff because being inside with ac is always nice. I've heard big companies that build track homes are pretty fast paced and a lot of people leave because the pressure and stress amd repetitivness. Also, attention to detail and listening to directions are very important no matter the job. Other than that tools are #1. If you don't have the tools you're useless. Not all jobs do you provide your own tools, but if you're not with some big company you will most likely provide that on your own. You can find some pretty good lists online of general tools you should have. Skilsaw (Mag77), bags, sawsall, grinder, impact, drill, holehawg, levels, nailers, hoses and compressor are some pretty basic things you should have and have experience with. Look up "Larry Haun" when you have a chance. He has good material that you can read/watch through. Other than that listen to advice from the OGs on the job and be confident in your measurements before you cut. As long as you're willing to learn there will be someone willing to teach you. Good luck out there :)

> Okay, onto the more technical questions.
> If you want to inlay the trim, you shouldn't need anything special besides an appropriately sized bit. i'm not exactly sure where you're planning on doing the inlay though.

This amazing drawing shows that in red. Or I could place it just under the lid. Both ways, I am concerned, may not mesh with the finger joints I'm planning to use. I suppose I could always space them out so I don't have any joints in the way of the inlay. The moulding is 5/16" x 3/4" and the straight bit that came with the router is a 5/16" straaight cut. I'd have to research/practice this LOTS on scrap pieces if I went with it. The other option would simply be to leave out the original base that's shown in the original picture and use this, which is 1425-8 3/8 in. x 7/8 in as the base or do the same thing (remove the base pictured) or use this one as the base and it is 7/16 in. x 3/4 in. These are basically my three otions. I was initially going to put feet on it but I feel like maybe the ornamental touch of themoulding might make the much smaller lily pattern I'll be doing on one lid corner stand out a bit. (It's leaves and all)

Shit, I could also do the inlay right around the middle of the box and space my finger joints accordingly since I don't think I could have one where the inlay is, could I? Also, this is Redwood Cedar I'm using, If you were to use the pine (i think) ornamental moulding, would you stain it first? If so, what color?

> A mortised lock will be bored into the edge of your piece, so that the lock is fully trapped by the wood, then held in place with screws. The locks on the doors in your home are mortised locks. A half-mortised lock would still be cut into the wood, but one face of the lock would be exposed. I'm not sure if it would be on the front, or the back. It might depend on the lock. Either ought to be doable with a router.

I did do some research on this one today and decided to go with the half mortise with the exposed portion on the inside (hopefully) so I can perfectly center the plaque with the name on it and it doesn't get in the way of anything.
> For a hinge, this is probably the simplest way to go: https://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Box-Stop-Hinge-Plated/dp/B0063D7P5G/ref=sr_1_12?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1485304357&sr=1-12&keywords=jewelry+box+hardware+hinges.

Thank you so much for suggesting this. I did see this earlier because I was worrying myself about what type of chain to install or special inside hinge (the'yre quite expensive). Correct me if I'm wrong but I think on a smaller box, such as the one I am making, the best look would be two small hinges versus the long one.

I appreciate your input so much I can't even put it into words. Not to mention I haven't finished putting the accessory pieces on the table saw yet because I'm so worried about the whole design. By now, I should have at least started with the box itself but I'm a planner and can't help it.

I feel like by the time I'm done with this project I'm gonna have 5 or 6 left over to sell or something.

Sketchup was a little difficult for me to figure out in my limited time so I think I'm going to use Gimp to put all these ideas "on paper" so it all makes sense. That'll probably help it come together a lot more quickly. And all the input from here is extraordinarly helpful. My father taught me to make a simple jewelry box when I was much younger so I'm sure I can pull this off. The difference is that I used his standard design instead of adding anything on my own. When I text him earlier asking whether or not I could use that trim as an inlay his exact response was, "I couldn't... You couldn't... You need too much more practice." Well, I believe this IS my practice. So again, I thank you so much for your input and hope I've described everything so that it makes sense.

Haven't read it but the Taunton press is a pretty legit publisher

https://www.amazon.com/Building-Shed-Tauntons-Build-Like/dp/1561589667
YouTube can bring it all together on how to execute operations and selecting and using tools.

Also building codes and construction techniques vary widely depending on where you live and with good reason. Climate, weather, seismic activity etc all determine how a structure needs to be engineered to be safe and long-standing.

Graphic Guide to Frame Construction.

I love this book. It has great tips, structures, methods, and detailed pictures to show how to accomplish what you're looking for. Also mentions code requirements. In the link above, it goes to the third edition, which is what I own.

I haven't actually used it that much on jobs because I've gone union and work mostly commercial jobs, but I've used it on some other projects for straight framing and it was great.

Here is a link for the fourth edition.

I'm taking an intro carpentry class in the evenings right now at my local high school trade school. The instructor has been in carpentry for probably 30 years and used the same textbook that we are using in the class

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/159070648X/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=1590702026&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=078HJD99HRNFC695QN9Q

Tons of information, really easy to read and understand. I'd highly recommend getting it if your interested. We're learning floor framing and wall framing. I'm hoping to take his other courses later on to learn roofing, stairs, etc.

I'd check around schools in your area that offer adult education programs and see if they have some kind of intro to carpentry class.

A very handsome bookshelf. Nice work. As a Mainer may I suggest adding one of my all time favorite children’s books.
Blueberries for Sal
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0670175919/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UEiBCbT9XJTKY

I like your idea about the rope, but I think would be simpler and more effective to use some small cabinet knobs and a rubber band material. You could put a couple of knobs near two of corners and wrap a rubber band or hair tie around them. Space them so the band will be taut.

Here is a diagram (imagine the door is closed — knobs in red, band in black): https://imgur.com/a/wajgHCF

knob example: https://www.amazon.com/BINO-8-Pack-Cabinet-Knobs-Diameter/dp/B07VPRDQ6J

rubber band example: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Preparedness-Resistant-Backpacks-Paintball/dp/B0716B9F6J

if you live in the USA is the best guide I have found to learn from zero. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1600852467/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

also, any Books or Videos from Larry Haun, that guys is fantastic.

I really recommend the video series of how to frame a house. is 3 parts of one hour each but you will watch a master working and taking the time to describe what you as new, need to learn.

For me, I want to buy my own tools. Maybe not the case for everyone though. If someone were to read my mind though, they would buy me a 24" Crick level. It is wood instead of metal like Stabila. Typically masons use wood levels and carpenters use metal. I do both and prefer wood, plus they have an old school quality look and feel to them.

​

For a non tool idea there is a cool book that I go back and read every once and a while. It's called Tools of the Trade.

You're right, there is no one right way to do anything.

All I'm going off of is your first comment about your dad being disappointed in you for buying a book. And my point was that it was the most basic of starting points.

With an example of hammering a nail, the book would tell you how to grip the hammer, how to hold the nail, where to place the nail on the material, maybe offer a tip of blunting the tip of the nail to prevent splitting, the mechanics of the swing, and the steps to start and complete the process.

Of course it's up to you to do it and figure out what works for you and how to get better at it. Same thing for someone offering tips and help.

In the end though, a book is a respectable place to get that foundation of knowledge and it's nothing to be ashamed of.

Oh, and Larry Haun also wrote an autobiography, too. https://www.amazon.com/Carpenters-Life-Told-Houses/dp/1600854028

Since Larry Haun has already been recommended, a couple of my other favourites: Finish Carpentry by Gary Katz, and Rough Framing Carpentry by Mark Currie.

Carpenters often use distinct smells and grain patterns to tell woods aoart. Pine, cedar, oak, douglas-fir, hemlock, popular, ash, maple. After you have cut oak flooring for a room you will always know the smell. Most people can tell pine from cedar by smell. Same with other wood.


Wood Identification is tricky with less common woods. They use the end-grain samples from the tree to tell them apart.

Illustrated Cabinetmaking details quite a bit of furniture construction. It touches on joinery, the where and why. It covers beds, chests, kitchen cabinets (wall hanging and bases) and many more. The plans are not detailed. Most are simply a blown-up or cutaway drawing of the piece itself but the author included source information.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1133607365/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494077420&sr=1-4


Carpentry 6th Edition by Floyd Vogt, just pulled this book (4th edition) out last night for reference.

Francis Ching, Building Construction illustrated https://www.amazon.com/Building-Construction-Illustrated-Francis-Ching/dp/1118458346

You will probably find this useful: The Elements of Building: A Business Handbook For Residential Builders & Tradesmen

I just picked up his book A Carpenter's Life. https://www.amazon.com/Carpenters-Life-Told-Houses/dp/1600854028 .
His thoughts and views about the world and his experiences in life make him even more endearing.

Okay, onto the more technical questions.

1. If you want to inlay the trim, you shouldn't need anything special besides an appropriately sized bit. i'm not exactly sure where you're planning on doing the inlay though.
   
   
2. A mortised lock will be bored into the edge of your piece, so that the lock is fully trapped by the wood, then held in place with screws. The locks on the doors in your home are mortised locks. A half-mortised lock would still be cut into the wood, but one face of the lock would be exposed. I'm not sure if it would be on the front, or the back. It might depend on the lock. Either ought to be doable with a router.
   
   
3. For a hinge, this is probably the simplest way to go: https://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Box-Stop-Hinge-Plated/dp/B0063D7P5G/ref=sr_1_12?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1485304357&sr=1-12&keywords=jewelry+box+hardware+hinges.