Top products from r/ChevySonic

Here is what I ordered to replace my factory head unit:

-ATOTO A6 Pro Android head unit

-Metra 99-3012G-LC dash kit which replaced the MyLink one with a standard double DIN dash enclosure. It included (iirc) the wiring harness needed to connect to the factory harness.

-Metra 40-EU55 Antenna Adapter to retain AM/FM signal

-Rockford Fosgate Prime R165X3 6.5" speakers (to replace front and rear doors)Rockford Fosgate Prime R1T-S 1" Tweeters (to replace the front pillar tweeters)

-Keep in mind that Crutchfield sent me the door speaker mounts free with my purchase, so I'll include those as well.

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To answer your question, I did not have any issues other than typical car audio wire routing stuff. For instance, the head unit comes with a mic that you can run, a GPS antenna, and a Wi-fi antenna. I found spots that worked for me and let the head unit sit correctly. Overall, it was a pretty easy install. The one thing that was a bit of a pain was that the double DIN replacement dash/stereo surround can be a pain to get to sit flush like the factory one. This could have caused by worn/bent/broken plastic clips or from the metal clips losing their tightness after I transferred them from the factory piece to the aftermarket piece.

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As for what doesn't work:

-XM radio as this head unit isn't XM compatible, but I don't use XM anyway. You could always get an Onxy XM (or another brand) kit, but you'd have a separate device in the car that you'd have to operate XM off of (i.e. the ATOTO does not have a built-in XM tuner).

-Glove box AUX/USB port. That being said, the ATOTO A6 Pro model that I got has an AUX jack built into the face of the unit as well as a USB port. It also comes with another Quick Charge USB cable that I ran from the back of the unit, through my steering wheel column area, and below to my driver's seat. I can plug in my phone, a USB device with multimedia, etc. In other words, I have no need for the glove box AUX/USB jacks. Then again, I didn't use them before.

-Steering wheel controls (work in progress). Even when I did have them, I didn't use them much, so this isn't a big deal to me. If you would like to retain your stock steering wheel controls (Vol+,Vol-,Source select,Track+,Track-), then the easiest solution would be to get a Metra Axxess ASWC-1. Simple to install and will retain your factory wheel controls. ATOTO support told me that I can simply attach the Key#(+) and Key#(-) wires to wires coming from my ATOTO head unit to some wire(s) from the steering wheel/wiring harness and then program the wheel buttons on my head unit. They are a Japanese (I think?) company, so their English isn't superb and I am still working with them on getting more clear instructions on this.

-Backup camera. This is just something I haven't tackled yet, so I wouldn't say it is broken. Basically, I just need to find the backup camera wire and get it connected to my head unit. I have not gotten to it yet, but it should be interesting as it appears that the backup camera signal wire is integrated into the factory wiring harness. In other words, I am going to have to locate the wire and then find some way to attach it to my head unit so that it will output video. Plan on looking at that this weekend.

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A note about the sound:

It took me a few hours to get used to the new sound of my Rockford Fosgate speakers. It isn't that the stock speakers were terrible, they were just a bit muddy in my opinion. The highs were decent, but the lows and the mids were pretty meh. The clarity I get from my aftermarket speakers is solid, and there is less distortion when I crank up the volume. My next project will be installing a separate amp for the door speakers to go along with the BOSS 1000w mono amp I have in the trunk compartment that powers my 10" JBL sub. Between the new head unit, the new speakers, and my sub in the back, they make driving and listening to music a lot more enjoyable.

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That's it. Everything works great and I love this head unit. Great reviews on Amazon and as close to a full Android experience as you can get at the price point. Android Auto and CarPlay simply didn't provide enough functionality for me, so I didn't want to waste my money. My goal was to be able to download apps, view my home security cameras, watch YouTube/videos while driving, and have an Android familiar experience. So far, it is working out great.

***************** EDIT ****************

Here is the picture of the installation at completion: https://i.imgur.com/KgGYrzp.jpg

Yes, the right edge of the enclosure is rough. I am going to clean it up. That is my fault as I lost focus while using them dremel :)

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Also:

1 - I decided to buy a rearview mirror dashcam and am going to run my own rear cam as well as it comes with it. I could splice a video component cable into the backup camera signal wire from the wiring harness, but I am just going to use the backup camera that was provided with my rearview mirror.2 - Steering wheel controls are also the same as backup camera. I just need to find what wire(s) on the wiring harness are for the steering wheel controls and connect them to the steering wheel control wires on the new head unit. EZPZ.

***************** EDIT #2 ****************

For the dashcam/backup camera, I purchased a TOGUARD rearview mirror with integrated dash cam ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DGS11CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). I also purchased a Meknic SV-PC01 hardwire kit (basically, an add-a-circuit fuse kit) so that I could hardwire the new dash cam without having to rely on powering the unit through the cigarette lighter. I simply tapped into the cigarette lighter fuse in the driver side kickpanel and the dash cam is now being charged when the car is on or accessory power is on. This weekend I will run the wires for the new backup camera. The plan is to run the wires from the rear to the driver side kick panel, then I will route the backup camera wires and the charging cable for the dash cam through the pillars and along the top for a clean look.

That takes care of the backup camera. All that is left now is the steering wheel controls. I got another e-mail from ATOTO who said that I just need to connect the wires from the new head unit to steering wheel control wires in the factory harness. I am still trying to find out which wire(s) that may be.


I looked in the service manual I purchased a while back and I think I found the steering wheel control wires: https://imgur.com/a/bQoUYuk

I don't know if this helps because I needed winter wipers, but I use them all year long (the only difference is that they are better encased to prevent freezing). I couldn't find (windshield or hatchback) of the windshield wipers for my 2014 Sonic hatchback at the local auto stores either. But I found these on Amazon. The longest is a tiny bit longer (at 26") so on super rare occasion (like once a year) this does cause some issues with an overlap of the wipers, but (so far) it makes a super loud SNAP sound (I always jump a foot) and that is it; no damage to the wipers or the window. If you don't like the wipers I listed below, I do believe you can buy just the adapters also, but I might be wrong. The wipers I bought came with the adapters. Good luck!

26" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009M08UXS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

15" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016S857NM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have these installed and I love them, night and day difference.
Link

you should get a cheap bluetooth ODBII sensor like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

Then you can read the codes causing the check engine light yourself and you could post em here and maybe someone can help

I currently have this one and it's fantastic

Allen Sports Deluxe 2-Bike Trunk Mount Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TRTSAZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Yb5iXdZrWVlnH

If that’s the problem, you’ll have to get the carbon cleaned out. I had to get it done twice. Then going forward, fill up with tier 1 gas. (Tier 1 gas has detergent in it to keep carbon from building up inside the engine)

If you don’t use tier 1 on gas, then use gas treatment every time you fill up. A bottle of treatment goes for 4 bucks on amazon.

Good luck

What about a dual camera setup like this
https://www.amazon.ca/Jeemak-Vehicle-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B0792S4CV9

I had the same problem with a suction cup based mount so i bought one of those vent clip ones and it works great. specifically this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O5JARCI/

ACDelco 214-2317 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBI5EE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KZrQBbZ4R8P75

Mom's car is the 1.8. Goto local auto parts shop. Have them read the codes. Print out codes.

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Purge valve for 1.8 was $16.92

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JBI5EE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Snorkle was $18.29

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2VDGM1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those two parts took me about 30 minutes total to replace. Youtube has a ton of videos on the Sonic....

Is it the 1.4?

https://www.amazon.com/New-Genuine-GM-Outlet-Part/dp/B00YWBQPCA

Here you go!

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2VDGM1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Replace the evap canister purge valve. It's a $30 $18 part on Amazon. Sits on top of the engine near the back. Takes just a few minutes to swap out. The parts are slightly different between the 1.8L and 1.4L turbo engines.

|Engine Size|GM Part No|Amazon Item|
|:-|:-|:-|
|1.4L (turbo)|55573017|https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQSHWG2/|
|1.8L (n/a)|55567453|https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBI5EE/|

Pro tip: do not "top off" when filling up. This creates additional back pressure in the tank that over time causes the failure of the purge valve.

I had a vent mount, but it snapped in a weird spot.p I then picked up this one and it can stick to the "bumpy" part of the dashboard. Pure magic.