Top products from r/Datsun

wow man that's awful, hopefully insurance can get you a new S30!

I just got one of these to help protect me from these very circumstances. So far it works great!

http://www.amazon.com/ITrue-2-7Inch-1080P-degree-Vision/dp/B015DGMV4S

Thanks all for replying!

As far as I can tell, the shifter does not drain to the transmission itself, at least not in my car.

I ended up removing the reverse light switch with an adjustable wrench. I'd guess it's about 20 mm. The switch is about level with the fill plug, only closer to the front of the car.

Once you have the switch loose, empty out the old oil from the drain plug. Loosen it with a 1/2 in square recess. Clean off any metal shavings caught in the plug's magnet and tighten it back on after the oil is out. Don't be a gorilla about torquing anything down. Before fully removing the reverse switch, make note of the two wires and disconnect them.

I used a hand pump to add the gear oil, but you could probably feed a long hose above to the engine and fill using a funnel. I added 2 quarts of Red Line MT-90 (75W-90), which is a touch under how much the manual calls for (2 liters). Clean the area after you're done, and dispose of the junk oil responsibly.

So, the car is back on the road again, at least until I try to fix (break) anything else. There's a bit less transmission noise now, and shifting is slightly smoother. The biggest difference is the transmission tunnel temperature. Before, the shift lever and ash tray area would get almost too hot to touch. Everything runs much cooler now, so I'm happy!

Hope this helps anyone that may search through here in the future!

I own the Datsun "How To" trifecta. While they are a bit dated when it comes to parts sources, they are great for reviewing and highlighting while watching TV or something. I would suggest a copy of How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car. Forums are awesome information resources, but sometimes I like print too.

The fuel pump is part # M60107. It's $22 on rock auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/carter,M60107,fuel+pump,6256

or summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m60107

or amazon https://www.amazon.com/Carter-M60107-Mechanical-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000C02DQC



The electric route is pretty easy. https://imgur.com/a/4ykaKtZ (forgive the shoddy wiring) This is mounted by the right rear control arm.

May i suggest some spot weld bits. They greatly reduce the problem of drilling through the base metal. Use a spring loaded center punch and maybe a 2mm drill bit to deepen the divot slightly (just through the top layer) then hit it with the spot weld cutter. Typically the center punch is enough, but sometimes in tight areas or with wear, the center of the cutter will wander and not stay centered when the cutter teeth starts to bite. The drilled divot helps keep this from happening.
https://www.amazon.com/KCC-Industries-DR4402-Value-Pack/dp/B073Z2L2C2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506277484&sr=8-3&keywords=spot+weld+cutter

subscribed to your channel, look forward to seeing your future progress.

I recently finished treating and priming my floor boards, to get all the black rubberized insulation crap off I had to use a gasket scraper with a mallet to chip big chunks off and to get the small(possibly melted on) bits off I had to use something like this tool, it came out really nice and I was able to just wire wheel, treat, and paint the floors after that.

http://www.mishimoto.com/10-row-oil-cooler.html

Get a universal sandwhich plate off ebay. 10ft of AN-10 steel braid and 2 sets of fittings and your good to go.

If your not a DIY type of person, then just get a universal one all ready to go.

http://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-Universal-Quality-Stainless-Braided/dp/B009KALA78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409113606&sr=8-1&keywords=godspeed+oil+cooler

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I got this book and it's really good:

The SU Carburettor High Performance Manual (SpeedPro Series) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1787111687/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PXBrDb0VKVDCJ

It covers everything from principals of operation to tuning and needle polishing.

Fender mirrors: Probably chrome on a silver. If you have stock bumpers, it's really a toss up, either would look good.

I was thinkin about a wink mirror too, but have this in my amazon cart right now.... My thought is that i'd still have usable sun visors, and wouldn't have to drill into anything. http://www.amazon.com/Broadway-Aluminum-Plating-Mirror-Convex/dp/B0082FA9II

Same way you would daily drive any car. Make sure it's got decent compression and a tune up.
Some decent resources for repairs/problems:
Factory Service Manual
Haynes Manual
Decent Companion to the Haynes

https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049

buy this, read this.

page 55, "Standard cylinder-head thickness-distance between top and bottom surfaces- is 4.218in"

see if VPM Company Inc, Tuscon Az has shims.

Here ya go

I think it is these ones:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040CWZR0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_auto_3?refRID=16TJRVKKN57EE8FS0PAB

How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine
by Frank Honsowetz

https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049

I used the connectors with anti-flicker that came with them. The only wiring "change" was tapping into the running lights for the DRL functionality.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6RY1I8/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_r70wDbEVZY37S

Aftermarket
CIPA 19100 Dual Sport Black Car Side Mirrors (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002A596S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nw6LxbB0XWQXE

It's metal right? I had that same one but it broke off at the ring and lost it a long time ago. FWIW I bought this one about 6 years ago and for like 10 bucks it's held up really well.

Audio is subjective to everyone. The Z is very space-limiting in terms of audio unless you want to lose a chunk of trunk to a subwoofer. I can't speak for others, but this is what my setup will be (I have all hte parts, they're just not in)

• Front speaker panel kit. Don't cut holes in anything, install this along with your choice of decent 2 way low profile 5.25" diameter speakers. You can also get the retrosound bundle which comes with low profile speakers @ 40 watts rms each.
  
• For the rear I am using the MSA speaker panel that holds 2 6x9 speakers. Mine are old JBL 3-ways I've had lying around for a while. It replaces your rear tail light panel.
  
• I haven't settled on a deck. Ideally I want a single DIN android-based unit that uses my phone for maps, bluetooth, can handle a backup camera, etc. Something like this
  
• Alternatively I've always had decent experience with Clarion, so I may just get a plain single DIN stereo with bluetooth and apps for under $100
  
• and a 4 channel amp capable of 50 watts rms per channel. Something that is relatively compact, like this Alpine.
  
  I'm omitting a subwoofer because of space and extra weight. The Z is also not a very quiet car unless you dynamat the crap out of it, and even then it's nowhere near a modern car in terms of blocking out noise. So lots of the lows will be eaten up by tire/road noise.