Well to be honest, a good set of rims is EXTREMELY hard to find. On my Ram I plan on restoring them (taking off rust, etc) and taking them to get powder-coated in the next few months. So taking your OEM rims to be powder coated may be a good option if you like them already. But if you really want to go with a different rim, consider if the rim would look good in a bronze. A rim like this: http://www.amazon.com/Touren-Black-Wheel-Machined-10x110mm/dp/B004IPPBT8/ref=sr_1_88?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1394858591&sr=1-88&keywords=dodge+dart+wheels. Which is semi-OEM but are completely custom otherwise and might not look good in bronze. And once something is powder-coated it can't easily be reversed. Especially these Touren wheels. So definitely take some time before making a large investment like a new set of rims or powder-coating your current ones. Point being, definitely take time on the rims. You will want it to suit the car, not just going for the "oh these look fine" rims and regretting it later. A good example of some bronze rims would be to look at the Subaru STI, they have a gold/bronze rim style with blue and most times it looks fantastic. However by repeating on your car you may get some hate for trying to repeat the look of a subaru. But all up to you on that. There's fantastic rims out there on amazon too, find a manufacturer you like and just browse through their selection. Sorry if this seems a little jumbled up, and it probably is a wall of text at this point but

TL;DR spend a long time finding rims you like. Or a long time thinking about having them professionally powder coated. It's a big investment that might even require an extra grand in tires as well. So make sure you like them. (Amazon also usually has good deals)

Fellow Texan here. Get some suction cups from Amazon and use those to secure the plate to your windshield, where it's clearly visible (about 4 inches up from dash so it's at least above the wiper blades)

I had a long chat with a cop once when I got pulled over for speeding (I had his attention so I made good use of the time, he was really friendly). Technically, the Supreme Court hasn't ruled on what constitutes the "front" of the vehicle. So for the time being, they can't ticket you for not having a plate on the front bumper. As long as the plate is clearly visible from in front of the vehicle, your good.

I've had my plate cupped to the windshield for over two yeas now and have been stopped multiple times for speeding (I know, I never learn) but have never once had my front plates placement in the windshield be an issue. Suction cup it in the windshield where it's clearly visible and you'll be totally cool.

Here's what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410485443&sr=8-1&keywords=License+plate+suction+cups

They fit perfectly through the holes in the plate and they have really strong suction, your plate definitely won't fall off or move at all.

Go to the hardware section in Lowes, there will be an Automotive subsection, buy some black push-pins. I went with the Nissan push-pins, they have one bigass hook and once it's in there it's secure as fuck. The Chrysler push-pins work as well, they've got about a dozen little splines on them which hold it pretty securely. Use those to fill the holes left by the license plate frame.

All-in-all, you'll be looking really good for less then $10.

Adding in where I got everything for those interested:

This stuff is awesome! It's the RedLine Interior I used

Also, these, I went with the rear lights, reflectors and side lights and the darkest they had to go with my black/white motif.

Finally I got some sweet strobe vinyl decals on ebay and the classic challenger emblems for the sides.

Can't forget about the HellCat Intake Not sure if it adds much in terms of HP but it definitely gets the intake temp down on the freeway. You'll need this as well for it to connect to your headlight. FYI it's not very tight of a fit around the lip but I don't think it matters much. There's a few videos out there on how to install it, super easy, only took about 20 minutes. ( Note: you need a '15-'17 Challenger to do this)

Thanks for your help on this everyone. I sorted out the issue! The sensor is behind the lower grill (drivers side). I found the easiest wat to get at it was to remove the main grill and reach down. The senor is attached to the grill by a small clip that you can pull out by hand. With the clip in your hand, push down the red tab holding it in and remove the sensor. Even after pushing down the red tab I had to use a small flat-head screwdriver to push back the plastic tab holding the sensor in place. Once out, pop the new one in, push the red clip back up to secure the sensor and put everything back together. It's not hard to do folks. Even if you're not at driveway mechanic level, you can still do this. One note, I didn't actually think the new sensor was working but after leaving the car sit overnight I started her up and everything was good!

I've attached a photo and a couple links that may help people out in the future. Good luck!

1. Removing the 2012 grill: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIrGV7tW5tI
   
   
2. Part from Amazon I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TEQ4TC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Location
   
   ​

replacement strut tower tops

If I could afford it I'd try to find a newer Caravan. They're much much better, the 3.6 is an awesome motor and the later vans without leaf springs drive much better.

Mine just exploded like the guy above said.

I bought the whole assembly on Amazon for like $80. I bought the whole assembly because my motor also fried when the fan exploded.

The motor was more expensive than the assembly, fan blade was only like $30 on rockauto if you just need that.

Should be the same assembly for you, but double check. Also looks like I went up in price a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003S9I8OU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good advice.

He could go with an app like Torque for Android $5, and buy this from amazon for $24.

Boom datalogging, and code reader ability for less than 30 bucks.
... and there are many other apps out there if Torque isn't to your liking.

I had good luck with R1 concepts also, ask them about 10% forum discounts.


I recently switched to rotors rotors and they are so good so far about 1,000 miles in.

This should be a sticky or in the sidebar of every car-related subreddit. They make a special UV-reactive tracer dye you can add to your coolant to find leaks. Here is an example of such a product:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFHNTM/

You add it to your coolant, run the engine to mix it through the system, and then at night you can spot leaks with a UV flashlight that makes the dye glow brightly.

Hmm. I haven't tried this but it seems like the next step: http://www.amazon.com/Fram-Group-AS-242-De-Icer-Treatment/dp/B000R2Z9E8

I'll emphasis the claim that it helps reduce re-freeze. But if it refreezes, perhaps another spray will do.

This situation is a pain in the ass but I think it's worth it to not have a full door frame. Opening my door with the window down in the summer makes me feel like a cool guy.

http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Mopar-Engines/dp/0895861283

http://www.amazon.com/Small-Block-Mopar-Engines-Present-273-318-340-360/dp/0895864797

The second link is fantastic.

Nice! First thing I'd invest in is the Eibach Sportline lowering springs.

http://www.amazon.com/Eibach-4-9528-Sportline-Performance-Spring/dp/B002C3KMGK

Gonna close up that wheel well gap and really reduce body roll when turning and cornering. Challengers are like SUV's when it comes to the body roll, it's ridiculous. The springs make a world of difference in terms of looks and performance.

Should only cost about $300 for the install.


Here's a before and after of a chally with the Eibach Sportline springs installed

http://www.myplumcrazychallenger.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/lowered.jpg

You used to be able to get a 'repair' part that would be riveted over top of the existing strut tower, to provide support.

Apparently it's a common issue and that was the fix early on.

Ya, I think yours is too far gone.

https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-924-207-Strut-Tower-Repair/dp/B001NYTF6W

Mine squeaked a lil bit and were a lil dry. Probably from sitting in Texas summer heat all the time. They never got stuck howerver. I put on what I normaly use for my Dash and other interior materials haven't heard a squeak ever since.

Side note. Stuff works really well on the chin spoiler and the plastic parts around the tail lights. Those seem to get dull and dry easy too.

Just a FYI, I'm having a Black Friday SALE on Amazon Right Now for this print - up to 40% OFF. It's available in 9 colors.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BHZR1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here ya go

https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462198514&sr=1-1&keywords=m205&linkCode=ll1&linkId=0d2bd2ea6afed7cc4b86a9a1c1afb05f&sa-no-redirect=1