Top products from r/DogCare

We found 23 product mentions on r/DogCare. We ranked the 66 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/DogCare:

u/bludart · 3 pointsr/DogCare

This kind of change may be hard for him-especially having Addison's. I'm assuming leaving him with the grandmother during the workday isn't a viable option.

Considering this will be a big change for the guy, I would suggest looking into bringing him with you to work...maybe even switching off days? It never hurts to ask the boss; especially if your job(s) are desk-type jobs where having an old dog snoozin' in a crate during the day wouldn't pose an issue.

If it isn't possible for either of you to bring the pup to work, you may want to consider daycare options. There are some daycares that are capable of handling special cases like Scott; in my area there are even some folks who do daycare in their home with only 1-2 dogs at a time (great for the Scotts of the world).

The daycare I work for is small on purpose; we can manage the special-needs dogs more easily. For example, we have an old pup with Addison's. He does wonderfully at daycare, as long as the group isn't too high energy (like on days we have more puppies). If it's too much for the ol' guy to handle, he can retire to a crate for a nap, or just get scooped up and cuddled by the staff (his favorite thing ever). It's definitely pricey to do on a daily basis; some people drop off everyday, but most choose a couple days a week. Most daycares I've seen offer discounts for pre-paid packages and a few even offer discounts if your dog is of the more sedentary, elderly type. There's also the option of having a dog walker come in a couple times a day to check in and take him for a stroll.

Barring bringing him to work or daycare: I would start trying to switch up his routine (slowly) before you have to leave him. Transition him, instead of going from all-day-attention to all-day-alone overnight.

If your move will be over several days, bring him to the new house with you so he can get used to the new surroundings. Those time where you're just dropping off stuff and taking a breather is a good time to let him wander and check things out.

Meanwhile, set up this exercise-pen plan in the grandparent's home and start practicing alone-time there. He'll get used to the "change in scenery" while still in comfortable surroundings. Have him in the pen for a few minutes alone at first, then (slowly) work up to half an hour, 45 minutes, 50, 60 etc. If someone is home, this is a great chance for Scott to get used to being confined and separated, while having someone on hand that can intervene should any issues arise. Just set him up in a dining room whilst the dishes are being done, then let him out. Pen-time while cleaning happens, or while taking a shower. Have a tv schedule to follow? Pen him during the first few minutes, let him out during commercial and hang out watching the program until the next commercial cycle starts. Repeat process. Timing it to a show/commercial cycle seems to be easiest for most of my clients. Mix up the amount of time he's in there, starting off with very short increments, so he doesn't feel abandoned! Just like crate training, with a larger space. r/dogtraining has more resources on that.

You mentioned he doesn't like toys and isn't food-motivated. What does he like, aside from people? Burying his head in the blankets? Chewing on fleece? Licking the carpet? Rolling around in pine needles? Try to find those things he does love, and replicate them for his pending alone-time. If you have a dog that loves to snuggle or burrow, getting a bed like this can help replicate that cozy-safe-warm environment. You could also leave lots of fleece blankets around in different piles (with treats buried in them!) for some fun exploration. For dogs that like to flop in things, I've had a lot of luck with making tactile boxes - basically buy a regular cat litter box, fill it with fun things. If you can trust him with soft toys, fill the box with it. Throw in some fleece scraps, maybe a couple of rubber chew things and a tennis ball or two. Bury treats in the bottom (really great smelling treats!).

Some dogs will go nuts pulling everything out of the box and playing with it all, some will sort through it and play with certain toys. I've seen dogs nest in the box over sleeping in a bed, dogs dig through it solely for the treats at the bottom, and my favorite-dogs pulling certain things out, then flopping about the box like the would grass after a rain.

Last two thoughts: make sure you have PLENTY of water available to him (when dogs are stressed, they tend to drink more water), and if you don't already, feed using a puzzle toy/puzzle feeder/interactive feeder instead of regular bowl. You may have to show him how it's done at first. It's a great way to feed pups slowly, and keep them physically and mentally engaged.

edit If it helps, I'm a dog trainer with neurotic beasties and have moved, a lot. They always adapt,and the more you do to prepare them the easier it is. You just need to give it time and patience.Stinky treats never hurt.

u/brdtwrk · 2 pointsr/DogCare

Yes, there is a ton of information.

Short answer: Read Dog Food Logic: Making Smart Decisions for Your Dog in an Age of Too Many Choices - it's the best resource I have ever come across for making dog food decisions.

Longer answer:

Here are some snippets from an article by The Whole Dog Journal (a magazine that promotes many "holistic" brands of food and treatments).

> Hill’s employs more than 150 veterinarians, nutritionists, and food scientists to collaborate on its pet food product development and research...

> Our tour guide of the Hill’s Pet Nutrition Center was Scott Mickelsen, DVM, a Diplomate of the American College of Laboratory Animal Medicine, and Manager of Pet Nutrition Resources for this campus (meaning he manages the animal colony). Four hundred and two dogs and 485 cats were reported to be living on the Hill’s PNC campus on the day of our tour – all of them kept according to the conditions laid out in Hill’s animal welfare policy (excerpted below and available in its entirety at

>The buildings that house the animals are all connected, with a total of 80,000 square feet of housing and treatment rooms, as well as kitchens and food preparation rooms. A 3,000 square foot veterinary hospital, where prophylactic care and urgent care (if needed) is provided, features everything you’d see in any modern veterinary hospital, including surgical suites and xray and ultrasound rooms. There are multiple rooms containing laboratory analysis equipment for blood and urine tests.

And Proctor & Gamble (Iams, Eukanuba, among others)

> Finally, we got back into cars and drove for a little under an hour to the PHNC. The 250-acre site where the research animals are kept is tucked behind a P&G extrusion (dry pet food) manufacturing plant. The facility has capacity for roughly 350 dogs and 350 cats.

> I was genuinely impressed with the thought and care taken with the housing for the animals. The indoor runs for the dogs are climate-controlled. When staff members noticed that a number of the long-term canine residents had neck or shoulder pain, P&G started researching dog doors that would swing open in such a way that the dogs didn’t have to muscle the doors aside with their necks or use a strained posture to pass through; they finally settled on doors that are split vertically down the center, like saloon doors in old Western movies. Dogs essentially pass straight through these doors, and the incidence of neck injuries dropped.

And lastly, most of the other "boutique" or "holistic" brands:

> There are a few other large pet food companies that conduct research on this sort of scale – Purina and Royal Canin, for example – but it has to be noted that few, if any, of the manufacturers of the foods on WDJ’s “approved foods” lists invest this much in either feeding trials or nutritional research.

(all emphasis mine)

Hill's has been around since 1939 and has been at the forefront of dog nutrition research since then. P&G, Purina, Royal Canin and the like all have similarly sized research facilities - they no longer have to farm out the work to third-party laboratories that may not take such good care of their dogs. Most if not all, have huge teams of veterinary nutritionists working for them. These are full-fledged vets that went on to completed dedicated nutrition education & research.

To compare, Merrick employs one (1) animal nutritionist. Champion Pet Foods (Orijen/Acana) employs two veterinary consultants and one animal nutritionist (MSc). WellPet (Wellness, Eagle Pack, & Holistic Select) employs one PhD animal nutritionist and two veterinarians. They certainly have the education necessary to formulate foods, but they have no where even remotely close to the study and research capabilities of the "big" companies.

The World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) is an association of associations. Its membership is made up of veterinary organisations from all over the world, which are concerned with companion animals. Currently there are 92 member and affiliate associations, representing over 145,000 individual veterinarians from around the globe.

The WSAVA has this great pamplet about researching dog food on the internet.

But seriously, read Dog Food Logic: Making Smart Decisions for Your Dog in an Age of Too Many Choices.

Edit: I will add that both Orijen and Acana adult foods have been through AAFCO feeding trials and so have more weight behind their product. Innova and Evo both have a couple foods that have been through feeding trials. Nature's Variety has a couple too. Blue Buffalo, Merrick, Wellness and many others have no foods that have been through feeding trials. And while AAFCO feeding trials can't account for everything and definitely could be better, that doesn't mean they're useless and shouldn't be a consideration.

And you can read an excerpt of Dog Food Logic over at The Bark magazine.

u/lzsmith · 2 pointsr/DogCare

I haven't tried this one personally, but it has a hole for hiding treats and is supposedly tougher than a black kong:

I've also heard antlers and himalayan chews last longer than rawhides, bones, and bullysticks for the super powerful chewdogs.

If he likes to herd/chase and isn't big enough to get his mouth all the way around it, jolly eggs are fun. They're smooth and egg-shaped so every time the dog tries to pounce or bite, it "escapes" and begs to be chased.

Sometimes big treat balls like this work after the dog learns how to get the treats out. Not that the dog couldn't chew it open if he wanted to, just that it's more effective and fun to push it around to get the treats. It would require supervision until the dog gets the hang of it though.

u/designgoddess · 1 pointr/DogCare

I follow the recipes in this book. The first time through it's a lot of work, but it gets much easier. I make it in bulk and freeze. I have a chest freezer that holds a few hundred pounds. Lasts me a couple of months. I have three medium sized dogs. I would say it's not too late for your dog. It's never too late to start eating a fresh diet, but I would take the transition more slowly. I feed what is called a BARF diet, biologically appropriate raw food. Others feed the PREY model. Two different schools of thought, but not so different. Only it can be like the Hatfields and McCoys between the groups. Find what you're most comfortable with. My vet only recommends a BARF diet. You can start by adding a small amount of real food to his current food. Any little bit helps. Last night I made hamburgers and saved a little of the meat for my dogs as a treat. As you're cooking save trimmings for the dog. The cut off ends of veggies, etc.

u/tokisushi · 2 pointsr/DogCare

A good way to tire out high energy dogs like that is to work their mind. The physical exercise is great (and not too much, I don't think - a good rule of thumb is to keep constant walks on pavement under a mile or so) but many dogs could go and go forever.

Work on some training as you play fetch (you can use throwing the ball as part of the reward in conjunction with treats if you choose) and you will likely have a much more worn out dog. At 14 weeks, master sit, down, loose leash walking, their name/look at you/attention and come. Once she is around 4 - 5 months or has a handle on all these commands (90%+ response under a variety of conditions : inside, outside, around varying distractions) you can work on things like wait/stay, drop it/leave it/take it, and tricks. You can also start to do nose work games to combine physical exercise and brain work!

As theleftenant said - running on pavement is the biggest concern. Walks are generally OK, but if they are under 6 months old, try to keep CONSTANT walking on pavement under a mile (if you take frequent breaks or go for walk on dirt/grass, you can sometimes go longer - just pay attention to the dog's cues). It is also a good idea to bring a dog water bottle with you, especially with the weather getting warmer.

Enjoy your pup!

u/glasspenguin · 2 pointsr/DogCare

I switched to raw food for my dog some years ago, though for general health and not because of allergies. We've had great results, and we don't have to worry about crap ingredients, additives, etc.

If you're interested in trying this, check out Carina Beth Maconald's excellent book, Raw Dog Food: Make It Easy for You and Your Dog I think that book is the single best resource on the topic, and makes it all really easy.

/r/rawpetfood might also be of interest.

u/squeakitysqueakums · 2 pointsr/DogCare

My pup goes crazy for ice cubes! I also give him carrots as well as oven dehydrated sweet potato slices in his kong -- at first he wasn't too keen on carrots, but having to work for them changed his mind.

These limited ingredient treats fit perfectly in the medium puppy kong, and they've been good on my pup's tummy. I've bought the 16 oz bag for $6 + free shipping before.

u/GeoBrew · 2 pointsr/DogCare

I have a GSD mix and the only thing (other than hide and seek) is that I bought a chicken and barn dog game that she loves. Here's something similar:

Generally, mine is only into it if I give it to her--so I doubt she'd play with it that much while I'm at work. If he's food motivated (mine isn't) there are a bunch of toys that will dispense food while requiring him to figure out a puzzle. Here are a couple examples (but there are a ton more):

Good luck!

u/lalaladka · 2 pointsr/DogCare

Make sure the food you are feeding her is a decent brand. Check out and compare your food with other options. Many "popular" food brands like purina or beneful have very little nutrients. If you are feeding her something that you feel is good for her, try adding in some supplements like Missing Link. There is some sort of deficiency in her diet that is keeping her from growing proper nails. My corg gets walks every day on pavement and I still have to grind her nails down once a week, if you need a comparison of proper growth.

For a short fix, you can use flour or cornstarch to stop the bleeding. I suggest buying some qwickstop from a local pet store, which is what we use in the grooming shop for quicked nails.

You can also buy soft claws for dogs, which is a plastic cover you can glue onto her nails to protect her nails. Soft Claws. You may have to train her to leave them alone.

u/thesongsinmyhead · 3 pointsr/DogCare

Something like this HiGuard LED Dog Collar, USB Rechargeable Glowing Pet Collar Night Safety LED Light Up with Nylon Webbing Perfect for Small, Medium, Large Dogs (Large Collar[18"-24" inch / 45.7-61cm], Neon Green)

u/PotassiumArsenic · 1 pointr/DogCare

If there's a place that does DIY doggy baths near you, use that. A proper dog tub is elevated off the floor, so it's easier for you to bathe them. Plus, they'll have attachments for you to tether your dog so they stay in the tub and don't fight as hard.

Both of my dogs aren't huge fans of baths, but when I bathe them in a professional setting (as opposed to the human tub at home) they're much calmer.

If bathing at home is your only option, try buying a suction cup tether. Something along these lines might help:

Rinse Ace Pet Bathing Tether Straps, 2 Pack

u/walkswithwolfies · 2 pointsr/DogCare

It's a comb-my chihuahua loves this routine as the teeth get through both of his coats. He looks forward to this every day.

u/Jourdin · 2 pointsr/DogCare

Maybe a lightweight mesh harness like this or this?

u/AuntieChiChi · 1 pointr/DogCare

First - always consult with the vet. We did and for My pit-mix (who also gets this sometimes, particularly in the summer), it is one of two things: a bug bite or folliculitis. Although I think there are some plants that irritate his skin in the summer.

We have another dog with a weird skin condition, so we have a medicated shampoo (we use this one) and when he gets all bumpy, we use the shampoo on him. Sometimes a plain old benedryl can help as well (only plain benedryl (chemical name: Diphenhydramine) though, 1mg per pound), but only if he's itchy or they become a little red.

Like you, we're in Florida, so there are all sorts of bugs that can cause itchies and bumps around here, so we have our dog on a flea and parasite prevention and just check for ticks regularly.