Top products from r/FRC

Not located anywhere near the PNW but can answer some safety questions.
As long as you never work on live circuitry and connect + to + and - to - you should be safe (kind of an obvious thing to say about electronics as it’s true for most cases). And with the voltages you’re most likely working with (3V-12V) you should be safe even if you do mess up (and the voltages and currents you’re working with is where it’s important to make the distinction between safe to mess up and NOT safe to mess up).
The most damage you will do is short something and break the arduino or other circuitry you’re working with. A lot of times genuine arduinos will have short protection and be able to turn back on.
I would suggest using a different type of motor controller though such as a shield that fits on top of the arduino.
Maybe this one (cheaper) or this one (better)

PM me with any questions if you’d like and I’ll try to answer them.

aiight

Rice Eating Meetup on Friday, somewhere in Cobo: Be nice 4 free rice. Y'all better bring some furikake to that meetup bc eating with only soy sauce is kinda boring imo

Our team bought a postal scale last year similar to this one. We balance a big piece of wood on it then zero it and put the robot on. Weighing it is super important because you don't want to be drilling massive holes or taking off components in the pits. I've seen teams spend hours in the pits sawing and drilling because they were overweight.

Edit: looks like marshallm900 and I had the same idea.

We got them from Sparkfun, because I could find them quickly there and was certain they'd be the right thing.

crimper

connectors

These appear to be equivalent connectors

I'm sure you could find equivalent crimpers as well.

I suppose something like this would be useful for carrying one battery at a time. However, my team (and I think most teams) have a cart that we use to carry all of our batteries around. They're rarely being carried on their own.

I have intentionally oversize glasses (a bit taller than yours) for increased vision range. I've found these to work well enough: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001YXJ7G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

better option

Any of the air horn/lowrider/air suspension tanks are way better options than using a ton of little tanks

Check robot manual for rules regarding compressor, as far as I know for offboard they must be rated at a max of 1.1CFM at 12v

IIRC tank just needs to be rated to appropriate specs for pressure

best option for offboard compressor

even better option for compressor

Our team did it last year to record game footage. As long as the inspectors sign off on it, you're good to go.


I recommend picking up a GoPro tripod adapter for mounting it. It let's you attach the camera on with a 1/4-20 bolt and is a little more secure than the adhesive mounts.
http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-GTRA30-Tripod-Mount/dp/B002RCLYXG

Sorry for the bad link, on mobile.

This should work nicely for you:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Weigh-Shipping-Stainless-Extendable/dp/B0153I0418/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452095816&sr=8-4&keywords=package+scale

Also, you can find a local pet store and they will have scales large enough to weigh a robot.

Our team uses Victor SP's since we can't afford Talon SRX's, so CAN is out of the picture.

Do you mean "real Y cables" as in something like this?: https://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW

Edit: Will we be penalized for keeping our PWM cables soldered together?

They are just regular cable ties. You get a pack of tie mounts like these http://www.amazon.com/Startech-HC102-Adhesive-Cable-Mounts/dp/B00008VFBE/ref=lp_507844_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396873899&sr=1-9 and you place a zip tie through it and around what you want to mount.

2 Pin JST https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-300Pcs-Housing-Terminal-Connector/dp/B0188YKCFC/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1511450043&sr=8-16&keywords=2+pin+jst+connector

These are commonly used in RC applications. Another application to highlight their security is for the main power for 1-3lb battle bots. If they can have the robot be bounced around a polycarbonate box without disconnecting, they will probably stay connected in an FRC robot.

We ran with the Logitech controllers this year to allow the driver to move into the next driver station or switch positions with the co-driver as needed to improve his sight lines. If your students have used the Logitech controllers before, I'd personally recommend sticking to them.

A lot of teams use joysticks. Common ones are:

• Mad Katz V1 - Ambidextrous, but I've heard bad things about the build quality
  
• Logitech Extreme 3D - Includes twist axis, nice button set, but only right handed
  
• Logitech Attack 3 - Ambidextrous, fairly rugged (we've had some since like 2010), but not readily available anymore.
  
  Or you can totally jump the shark and go full-on 114 style DJ board and guitar as controllers!

Let me introduce you to Thomas & Betts zip ties. In normal zipties, the first thing that breaks is the plastic tongue. Instead of a plastic tongue these use a metal one.

Im already designing a version of this for Peachtree District:
https://www.amazon.com/Gamma-Sports-Automatic-Tennis-Mower/dp/B002N1JHMG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1483850682&sr=8-9&keywords=tennis+ball+collector

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Wacky-Noodles-Floating-Choose-Assorted/dp/B004UHED0C

Yes!

Beware of the field supervisor. He carries on his a Uno Attack Card Dispenser full of red cards for robots who send the snack cubes at him.

Yes, Milwaukee makes a cordless one that comes with a spare battery and a charger for about $300 on Amazon. A freshman on our team broke (and fixed) it the day we got it. Fortunately, this was the same freshman who managed to put together one of those West Coast Robotics elevators last season by himself from the CAD drawings without any other instructions and he'd almost completely fixed it before we'd even noticed it was broken.

We keep a closer eye on the holy rivet tool now.